Back in 1978, a reverse-cycle heat pump was a $6,290 option on this boat... That's more than $25,000 in today's money! So I really can't complain too much about buying a new one for two grand.
Use a “ Little giant” condensation pump from Amazon, it’ll run you around 60 bucks. It has a float that triggers the pump and you won’t hear it. I used one on my heat pump in my boat and it worked great. You don’t want to drain by gravity from your AC system overboard because of the chance of water running back if you get low to the water line. You want to pump out somewhat high. The marine air is a very nice system I had 16kbtu 115v and it was flawless. Hopefully you can keep the intake and strainer clear.
I have noticed that as each problem has come up that you have the talent to think your way through them in a logical way, that says a lot! It is amazing what a previous owner can do to a boat! It makes you wonder what they were thinking. Glad you cured the No AC problem!
I have a 31 Tiara and my AC condensate drains into the shower box as well. I found about 3 inches of water in my cabin about a month ago which was a result of me leaving the the AC running during the week when I was not on the boat and the shower sump pump not working. Would have eventually sunk the boat had I not decided to check on her during the week. So many things on a boat that can go wrong.
unlike a car (for the most part), boat owners need to know A LOT about their boat (or hire someone who does if they are wealthy enough) and make the necessary changes (AC condensate should not ever be capable of sinking a boat unless a much worse problem is stopping the system or entire boat from draining). Ideal - since the water cooling is taking water out of the ocean/lake/etc and then pumping it back into the ocean/etc - the condensate should pump out the same way (or perhaps drain into a grey or black water boxes).
We have a neighbor on our houseboat dock who’s houseboat with residential ac had a condensate pump fail. Eventually filled the 50 boat up with a foot of water and just about sunk it before anyone noticed.
Only just discovered your channel. I enjoy boats in general and seeing you deal with those problems. Next, I spent years on a ship out of Mayport so Jacksonville is nostalgia for me. If you haven't started yet, start now, a maintenance record on every system on the boat with notes on operation and troubleshooting. Start with checks you can make before major disassembly. Welcome to home ownership. Boat or house, when they get this old the systems need regular tlc. Keep them coming!
Thank you so much for this video. You just helped me figure out what those two Little Giant magnetic water pumps are for. I couldn't figure out what they're used for and now I know. They are for the water supply on the heat exchanger side. My compressors/blowers run but don't produce cold. HVAC systems always have two sides for temp control, a condenser/compressor side and then a heat exchanger side. I couldn't find the heat exchanger side so now I know these are water cooled. I live in a mild climate (SoCal coast) where AC on the water is almost never needed...so way back on my list of problems that need fixing.
Hello my friend love the content! My AC drains into the sub pump as well reason for that I thinks because the AC sits to low on the hull therefore to have a drain line straight to the outside wouldn’t be feasible, a drain hole down low on the hull would create a possible path for water to come in to the boat, my sub pump is different though, well it’s a newer one it’s just a regular bilge pump inside of a plastic container, you can buy the whole set up ready to install it’s quiet small and really quiet you will never hear it again
Oh, you mean for the condensation water. It has a throughhull too. But because of where its located, the hose dips below the water line inside the boat and needs to be pumped back up.
The coolant leak was very deep in the loop. Not an easy place to reach with a soldering iron. It had 16,000 running hours on it. Time for an upgrade anyway.
![Battery-Powered AIR CONDITIONING on a Sailboat [Capable Cruising Guides]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xF113aUlZgo/mqdefault.jpg)
![Battery-Powered AIR CONDITIONING on a Sailboat [Capable Cruising Guides]](/img/tr.png)
Back in 1978, a reverse-cycle heat pump was a $6,290 option on this boat... That's more than $25,000 in today's money!
So I really can't complain too much about buying a new one for two grand.
Use a “ Little giant” condensation pump from Amazon, it’ll run you around 60 bucks. It has a float that triggers the pump and you won’t hear it. I used one on my heat pump in my boat and it worked great. You don’t want to drain by gravity from your AC system overboard because of the chance of water running back if you get low to the water line. You want to pump out somewhat high. The marine air is a very nice system I had 16kbtu 115v and it was flawless. Hopefully you can keep the intake and strainer clear.
Thanks! This is great advice
)
You got a great deal brother always look around you can always find what you are looking for
For someone with little prior mechanical electrical experience your reasoning/problem solving/acumen in these areas is excellent. Best of luck!
Thanks! Haha i try to keep a level head.
You're going to become a professional handyman for boats the other fix almost anything have a good one brother
I have noticed that as each problem has come up that you have the talent to think your way through them in a logical way, that says a lot! It is amazing what a previous owner can do to a boat! It makes you wonder what they were thinking. Glad you cured the No AC problem!
I have a 31 Tiara and my AC condensate drains into the shower box as well. I found about 3 inches of water in my cabin about a month ago which was a result of me leaving the the AC running during the week when I was not on the boat and the shower sump pump not working. Would have eventually sunk the boat had I not decided to check on her during the week. So many things on a boat that can go wrong.
unlike a car (for the most part), boat owners need to know A LOT about their boat (or hire someone who does if they are wealthy enough) and make the necessary changes (AC condensate should not ever be capable of sinking a boat unless a much worse problem is stopping the system or entire boat from draining).
Ideal - since the water cooling is taking water out of the ocean/lake/etc and then pumping it back into the ocean/etc - the condensate should pump out the same way (or perhaps drain into a grey or black water boxes).
We have a neighbor on our houseboat dock who’s houseboat with residential ac had a condensate pump fail. Eventually filled the 50 boat up with a foot of water and just about sunk it before anyone noticed.
Only just discovered your channel. I enjoy boats in general and seeing you deal with those problems. Next, I spent years on a ship out of Mayport so Jacksonville is nostalgia for me.
If you haven't started yet, start now, a maintenance record on every system on the boat with notes on operation and troubleshooting. Start with checks you can make before major disassembly. Welcome to home ownership. Boat or house, when they get this old the systems need regular tlc. Keep them coming!
Thank you so much for this video. You just helped me figure out what those two Little Giant magnetic water pumps are for. I couldn't figure out what they're used for and now I know. They are for the water supply on the heat exchanger side. My compressors/blowers run but don't produce cold. HVAC systems always have two sides for temp control, a condenser/compressor side and then a heat exchanger side. I couldn't find the heat exchanger side so now I know these are water cooled. I live in a mild climate (SoCal coast) where AC on the water is almost never needed...so way back on my list of problems that need fixing.
Yay, now you have it’s all going for you😅
You're living my dream brother.
Hello my friend love the content! My AC drains into the sub pump as well reason for that I thinks because the AC sits to low on the hull therefore to have a drain line straight to the outside wouldn’t be feasible, a drain hole down low on the hull would create a possible path for water to come in to the boat, my sub pump is different though, well it’s a newer one it’s just a regular bilge pump inside of a plastic container, you can buy the whole set up ready to install it’s quiet small and really quiet you will never hear it again
clean the strainer... also strainer seal
Done! I made a short video about it. It's titled "disgusting!" For obviously reasons haha
Always start troubleshooting at the fuses!!!!!!!!
I want to come and help you it looks like fun I enjoy hard work
Give the ac its own thru hull above the waterline.
There are two outlets above the waterline for the AC water to flow.
Oh, you mean for the condensation water.
It has a throughhull too. But because of where its located, the hose dips below the water line inside the boat and needs to be pumped back up.
Did your survey make note of any of these issues before you bought the boat?
So once again, why can’t the front AC be repaired??
The coolant leak was very deep in the loop. Not an easy place to reach with a soldering iron. It had 16,000 running hours on it. Time for an upgrade anyway.
How much power does it draw and does it work if you're away from shore power?
Its surprisingly efficient. Draws about 8-9 amps usually. Only runs on 120v, so I'd have to have the generator on if i wanted AC underway.
I love how this video has 0 dislikes and over 250 likes impressive.
Haha true. There's almost always 2 or 3 dislikes thrown in there.
01
Window units all the way.
Dumbest thing you can ever install on a smaller pleasure craft under 60'. A open window and a fan will do just fine.
You must be European😂 ac is a must! Just make sure it functions properly