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That is provision air conditioning and that can you do

your basically doing what they call a pump down. closing off the low side where no more gas can cycle back into the compressor but the high side can keep compressing until there is no more refrigerant left in the sealed compressor will create a vacuum on the low side as all remaining refrigerant gets compressed and cooled in the condenser until the condenser gets flooded with liquid refrigerant, this also causes high head pressure and high heat. care must be taken not to run it for too long.

Thank you Rich for your help Bobby from Guatemala now

Sir i want to thank you for emphasizing not to over look corrosion. The corrosion was on the reset electrical connections. A little bit of sanding and T-9 and voila! My compressor is humming again!

Sight glasses are completely useless for determining R-134a "state of charge" even in properly engineered systems much less clusterfucks like that. Which is why R-134a AC systems haven't had sight glasses for at least a decade IF you buy OEM "vehicle" manufacturer components. And a "full charge" of R-134a in a "converted" R-12 system is 80% of R-12 by weight. And the ONLY way to accurately - and PRECISELY - charge R-134a systems is by weight into an EVACUATED - VACUUM PUMPED - system. A "vapor charge" is complete bullshit. There is no way to "empty" a system completely without evacuating it to a "perfect vacuum" and long enough to boil out all moisture. What you have there is a clusterfuck using a home refrigeration compressor and a mobile AC receiver-drier. As for compressors not being made to "suck" LIQUID REFRIGERANT I'D SURE AS HELL LIKE TO KNOW WTF A CONDENSER DOES IF NOT TURN REFRIGERANT "VAPOR" INTO LIQUID REFRIGERANT PRIOR TO IT GOING INTO THE COMPRESSOR. WHICH IS 100% A LIQUID PUMP AND "COMPRESSES" LIQUID REFRIGERANT INTO THE "HIGH SIDE" SO ITS READY TO BE EVAPORATED AGAIN. COMPRESSORS CANNOT "SUCK VAPOR" IN A SYSTEM WHERE THERE IS NO "VACUUM" AND WHAT DAMAGES COMPRESSORS IS "HOT WIRING" THEM TO "SUCK VAPOR" AND BYPASSING THE PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCHES AND GETTING A PRESSURE SPIKE ON THE COMPRESSOR "SUCTION SIDE" ONCE THE SYSTEM IS OVERCHARGED WITH "VAPOR" AND THEN LIQUID AND HIGH SIDE PRESSURE SPIKES OVER 450 PSI. GM A-6 COMPRESSORS HAVE A "SUPERHEAT" COMPRESSOR PROTECTION SWITCH AND A "FUSIBLE LINK" IN THE CLUTCH POWER WIRE WHEN USED WITH EXPANSION VALVES AND RECEIVER-DRIERS INSTEAD OF ORIFICE TUBES AND ACCUMULATORS FOR A REASON. THEY'RE SO "STRONG" THEY'LL TAKE THOSE PRESSURES AND "BLOW" OTHER PARTS INSTEAD WHILE "SANDEN STYLE" COMPRESSORS WILL JUST SCATTER AND MUST HAVE HIGH-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVES TO "POP OFF". JOHN DEERE AND CATERPILLAR "PERFECTED" THE A-6 COMPRESSOR FOR OFF-HIGHWAY USE IN AG AND CONSTRUCTION EQUIPMENT WHERE CAB "PRESSURIZATION" IS "STANDARD" AND DID SO BY IMPROVING - AT THEIR OWN COST - THE STOCK A6 SEAL AND ADDING THE "SUPERHEAT SWITCH" THAT ACTS BOTH AS A HIGH PRESSURE AND LOW PRESSURE SAFETY SWITCH AND CLOSES TO "GROUND OUT" THE COMPRESSOR POWER FUSE AND INSTANTLY "BLOW" IT TO SWITCH OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND KEEP IT OFF UNTIL THE SYSTEM IS "SERVICED" AND THE PROBLEMS SOLVED. AND WHEN YOU SAY CHARGE STATE CAN'T BE DETERMINED WITH MANIFOLD GAUGES YOU'RE FULL OF IT. A TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE CHART SHOULD "MATCH" WHAT THE GAUGES READ IN AN EQUALIZED (I.E. TURNED OFF) SYSTEM. IF PRESSURE IS HIGHER OR LOWER THAN INDICATED FOR THE AMBIENT AIR TEMP THEN THERE IS EITHER EXCESSIVE OR INSUFFICIENT REFRIGERANT "COMPRESSED" WITHIN THAT "SEALED" SYSTEM. AND HIGH SIDE AND LOW SIDE OPERATIONAL PRESSURES SHOULD "MATCH" AS WELL IN A "STABILIZED" SYSTEM. AT LEAST IN A PROPERLY ENGINEERED SYSTEM AND NOT ONE SIMPLY "DESIGNED" WITH "OFF THE SHELF PARTS" TO TURN 1/2 A WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER AND A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AND A "COLD PLATE" FROM A REFRIGERATED DRINKING FOUNTAIN. THAT 2 CANS IS A "PERFECT CHARGE" FOR THAT "SYSTEM" REGARDLESS OF HOW FAR FROM THE "COMPRESSOR UNIT" THE "COLD PLATE" IS AND HOW LONG THE "CUSTOM MADE" COPPER LINES YOU "SUPPLY" ARE IS HILARIOUS. AS HILARIOUS AS USING A MOBILE AC RECEIVER-DRYER AS AN "ACCUMULATOR" AND PLACING IT "UPSTREAM" OF IT BETWEEN THE CONDENSOR AND COMPRESSOR INSTEAD OF BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND EXPANSION VALVE AND...COLD PLATE. WHICH IS NOT AN EVAPORATOR. IF YOUR "SYSTEM" IS GUARANTEED TO LEAK AND NEED A "RECHARGE KIT" EVENTUALLY USING R-134a which by its nature requires a much "tighter" system than R-12/R-22 and is far more "charge critical" in a day and age when even R-12 "conversions" done by properly "trained" and equipped and experienced AMACA-certified HVAC techs "by the book" will "seamlessly" replace R-12 with as little or less "maintenance" then obviously you have no PLACE selling your "system" as a "refrigeration system" no matter how much BUSINESS you get doing so. Some people NEED rather than simply really really want the "convenience" of a refrigerator-freezer wherever they go to store VERY perishable substances without which THEY can "perish" so you should be a lot more careful of informing potential purchasers just how DURABLE your "system" is. Which is far more important than being "reliable". Anybody manufacturing ANY refrigeration equipment "guaranteed to fail" in a "few years" give or take couldn't and wouldn't call it "durable goods" and damn sure wouldn't make it "some assembly required".

How long does it usually take for the compressor to take in a 12 oz. can of refrigerant?

I started with a sea water cooled system, but I was always concerned with the possibility of clogging, salt water leak and the inability to keep the refrigeration running while on the hard. So a few years back I designed a new system to run using the onboard fresh water tankage, I was concerned that it might warm the water but it doesn't or is negligible. So all my earlier concerns have been eliminated.

The fan works fine and has always been working fine there is correct voltage but the light blinks twice and the compressor stops every minute and comes back on every minute it stops and comes back on and the light blinks 2 times.

Dont waste your money if a part goes bad they will try and blame you like they just did to me. The manual is piss poorly written with no diagrams on what not to do. They just write some crap in the manual and do not provide a diagram of right and wrong when hooking up the lines. I had to fix this myself with a one cent o-ring. Also my shipment did not have a themostat and they tried to tell me we dont ship to your country. So i has someone bring me one it was not the same one some digital piece crap that did not work. I asked this Rich guy and he told me did not know what I was talking about and call some other person. They never replaced this I had to go and get a new one out of my pocket. Typical company thats out to only make a buck. By an italian made Isotherm for 1/3 of the price that does the same thing.

how can a tilting sail boat refrigerator and freezer compressor keep working with all the tilting

You did a great job of breaking it down step by step thanks for sharing

I watched a video from a world travelling sailor. His Cool Blue unit was 11 years old and worked great until the controller failed. He got on the phone to Technautics who help him diag the problem and then they sent him a new controller for only the cost of shipping. They even threw in a new t-stat. I will be refitting my boat with this unit.

First of all: congratulations! You do have an incredible product and you had me the moment you mentioned "we keep it simple"! My question is, how many BTUs and watts for this beautiful machine???

I have a 5000 AC unit on my boat the unit wasn’t getting very cold a mechanic look at it he said that the compressor was no good and now when I try to turn it on it blows the Circuit breaker which he never did before what did he do wrong

the compressor runs AC? how is the voltage of the 3 phase AC for the motor?

My Cool Blue started blowing fuses last night. Replaced fuse that has been in the circuit for years with the same but new fuse and it blew in seconds.

i wonder if i could relocate the electronic controller box to another location, say closer to my switch board?

Cool video Richard

I had a 2 volt dropped on brand new blade fuse holder from WestMarine.

I'm refilling from zero, how long does it usually take per can? Seems like it'd been a hot minute on the first can. The can is definitely 30 degrees colder than ambient so I know it's going in.

Dude, freakin' answer people's questions or don't make videos.

Thanks for this

When you said “now go watch a cat video” I was thinking Catamaran ⛵️

What a great company in Rich is so fantastic helping! I had a unit I bought used and bought some lines from him and he has been so helpful in helping me get this thing running what an amazing company

I live in the tropics. Air-cooled works fine. THE PROBLEM IS... a compressor generates a lot of heat, that heat needs to go somewhere. Unless you can vent the Compressor compartment heat overboard that heat GOES INSIDE YOUR BOAT. Do you want to turn a heater on when you're cruising the tropics? Because that's what it is like. From a person with real-world experience living in the tropics.

HELP! What exactly is your email address? re: ruclips.net/video/LuSMNcmQwJg/видео.html&lc=UgwwdnxrepHMRFPIdWx4AaABAg.9HmpYY8Giv89Hnhdt0p9G9 I don't have to tell you the numerous installation mistakes that might affect your product's reputation. Hopefully you see this post in time. Looking forward to your evaluation This might be an opportunity to add another instructional video to your channel. Cheers, N

Thanks for posting these videos. Very helpful!

Is this refrigeration or air conditioning

I'm sold what's it's power needs and how much ?

Need smthing small and easy to install in my boat..do you have a website??

I want to hit the thumbs up but it’s at the perfect number - 69! Nice vid though.

Thank you, this was very informative. I was wondering, however, if I could reach out to you personally as I'm not yet sure about my compressor. It's different to yours, and the problem appears to be high refrigerant. I hope you can help. Thanks a lot!

Another great video.

Great video Rich. Knowing that the you the owner of the company knows and understands how everything works will bring me to your sale department to buy from from you. Thanks for sharing this video. I plan to watch all your vids. I have also emailed you with some questions before I buy. Hope to hear from you soon.

Rich, do you make an ac system for sailboats? Or do you recommend a system?

If you suspect the fan is shorted, be cautious about putting 12V right to it. Be sure the supply is fused properly or you have a power supply with current limits set. Great vids! Thanks for posting

You guys are the best. KUDOS

I would like to charge my Danfoss BD35F. There's three connectors labeled in the manual as "suction" , "discharge" and "process". The first two already have connections, presumably running to and from the cooling plate. I assume i recharge through the "process" connection? Thanks!

Thank you, immensely helpful!

I take back my comment on the having the unit in the salon. After visiting their website, I realized that these are refrigerator/icebox units NOT AC systems to cool the cabin.

4:45 - The comment about it being "OK" to put install the condenser unit in your main salon which is also being cooled by the same AC unit is not really correct.. Refrigeration works by removing the heat from one area and moving it to another area where it can dissipate.Having them both in the same location would be the equivalent of leaving the fridge door open to cool the kitchen. You would be adding heat to the room, not cooling it as the machinery is working and generating additional heat in the process..

The stray currents eating the hull fittings is prevalent in marinas where boats are leaking current through their shore power system., and it is passing from one boat to the adjacent boat like cells in a battery.

Hi witch country

Interesting. I'd like more info.

Greta video

I'd love to see a video of the site glass percolating then finally coming to stop after a correct charge is reached. I can't seem to find any video of the actual charging process and what the sight glass should actually look like when correctly charged ( I know you can't tell the difference between charge and overcharge). I just recently purchased this system and unfortunately lost a lot of refrigerant during the install due to a leak between the braze adapter and female coupling.

Hah in Iraq 120F is the standard temperature... My car ac is suffering would you recommend a bigger condenser?

here in kuwait its 111 f to 127 f ..any recomendation?!?

Agree that a TXV with receiver and large condenser increase efficiency and range of capacity. Don't understand why you need a a cooling plate. TXVs work with evaporators too and they are simpler.