Love your videos man! You are always spot on with your info. Im 54 years of age and have been shooting for 2 years now. I have placed in every tournament I have competed in. Everything that I have learned has been through your videos and kissik lees book. I have never had a coach. I get my wife to video me from time to time and make corrections from there.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching - sounds like you're on the right track which is awesome. I've got a video coming soon showing how you can setup a delay software too which might be helpful for more frequent video feedback :)
Great discussion about aiming, particularly liked the point about not stopping to aim but getting the best aim that you can as you expand. Will definitely experiment with this at training. Thanks!
I sent in a comment on the bow arm alignment and had the opportunity to watch a couple of local Archers.. ... was surprised at how common the problem is.
How much diet and workout effects shooting a professional Olympics bow ! I see all ur videos very carefully they are just amazing 👍 Lots of love & respect from India ✌️
500fps should be enough but 1000fps is even better. Some new phones can almost do 1000fps, and Sony make a camera that can do 960fps too: www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-rx100m5a#HFR-headline
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy thanks for this information. 700€ is a budget. I'll search other solution and will give you a feedback if i find something else. ;-)
Great vid again. That answers some of my curiosity. I have two questions.. How do we fix our actual arrow length with regards to our draw length? Is there a mathematical way? What is the recommended length to fix fletchers relative to the groove of the nock?
Ideally, we would like to shoot with the clicker about 4.5cm±1cm from the pressure button centre. So this should help to find the arrow length you would want. For the fletches, the further back (closer to the nock) the better. The only thing to make sure is to have enough clearance with your fingers so you don't touch the fletches. But having them further back gives more arrow stability.
TIMESTAMPS: 00:11 - Why you shouldn’t tune with your button 00:46 - Where the string picture should be on the bow 02:42 - HOW TO FIX YOUR COMMON MISTAKES 05:36 - When to aim during the shot 08:51 - Why aiming is NOT 2D
A question in relation to aiming if I may. I am finding an issue of my sight pin falling low of the gold at full draw and then I end up forcing the sight back up to the gold and struggling to do so, meaning that o release my bow arm will shoot upwards at times. Do you have any idea of what may be causing this and how best to tackle it. When it doesn't happen I am getting some nice grouping on the target, but this issue is really letting me down.
I would try this: first try and identify why it is happening. Do the "clicker extension drill" and see if the dip happens when you're coming into anchor/expansion, or if it happens just before you release. If it happens as you release then it's a case of doing some more clicker extension drills to condition yourself to maintain the position on release. If it happens when you are drawing/coming into anchor, then you need to find a way to draw without allowing it to drop below the gold. An example of this could be to make sure the sight is higher at the setup position.
So this is very curious... I am a long time rifle competitor and I've recently (6mo.) started an Olympic recurve bow. I think that many of the principles of competitive rifle shooting carry over to shooting the bow very well, but I am struggling a bit with target focus vs. sight focus. In shooting the rifle, the focus is on the front sight, NOT on the target. The target can be blurry and I still can shoot tiny x-ring groups. I have gone back and forth on sight focus vs. target focus with the bow.... for me, it is not yet clear which produces more consistent results. Do ALL top archers have a focus on the target instead of on the sight? BTW - thanks so much for your video instructions... I am finding them VERY helpful.
I think most focus on the target in olympic recurve. You might want to instead look at passive vs active aiming. Active is trying to keep the pin in the middle while shooting, while passive as i know it is focusing almost completely on the middle of the target and then expanding towards the target. I personally prefer passive.
Thanks so much! I'm glad the videos are helpful :) The short answer is yes, pretty much all top archers focus on the target not on the sight. There very well may be a top archer that focusses on the sight, but I don't know of anyone so far! It's quite universal in that respect. Hope that helps :)
Hi, It's the first time I hear that the string picture is a personal preference. I've always been taught, and find it in many references ("Total Archery" for example), that the string picture should be on the touching the left side of the sight aperture (for right handed archer) and anything different is incorrect. Why is your opinion different?
Of course being consistent is important, but I think the correct (or better said optimal) position also matters a lot. By having the string picture on the side of the aperture it creates a fixed relative position between the string and the aperture. If you have some distance between the sight and a string, even if referenced to some other part of the bow I don't believe you can be that accurate, especially considering that your eye focus is on the target.
I understand what you mean, but it isn't true that it should be in one position. Some of the worlds top archers do place it on the sight, but many place it on the riser. I've been really lucky to shoot and talk with lots of top archers, and I would say that actually more place the string on the riser than on the sight!
The button tuning is really for micro-tuning or fine tuning. This is when an archer is shooting 640-650+ on a Fita 70m round that the micro-tuning is worth doing :)
Hi, Very interesting video. @ 5:30, you are talking about high speed camera, smartphone, and something having an high speed function, but english isn't my native language, and I don't undertand what is this "assala" you are talking about (the spelling is surely false, it's the name I hear)
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Love your videos man! You are always spot on with your info. Im 54 years of age and have been shooting for 2 years now. I have placed in every tournament I have competed in. Everything that I have learned has been through your videos and kissik lees book. I have never had a coach. I get my wife to video me from time to time and make corrections from there.
Happy to help! Thanks for watching - sounds like you're on the right track which is awesome. I've got a video coming soon showing how you can setup a delay software too which might be helpful for more frequent video feedback :)
Great discussion about aiming, particularly liked the point about not stopping to aim but getting the best aim that you can as you expand. Will definitely experiment with this at training. Thanks!
Thanks man! It only seems like a slight shift in mentality but makes a huge difference!
Very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for the tips
Good information, thank you.
Thanks for watching Mario :)
Great session, with great insights beyond the basic form steps, thank you, Mate, much appreciated.
No problem - always happy to help - glad you enjoyed it :)
I sent in a comment on the bow arm alignment and had the opportunity to watch a couple of local Archers.. ... was surprised at how common the problem is.
It is quite common isn't it! Hopefully the video can help out :)
How much diet and workout effects shooting a professional Olympics bow !
I see all ur videos very carefully they are just amazing 👍
Lots of love & respect from India ✌️
Thanks Chanakya! Exercise and diet plays a very large part of top level shooting! I will do a video on this in the future :)
Thank you
hello,
I'm interested in the high speed camera training you mentionned in the video. Which speed is necessary to see enough detail?
500fps should be enough but 1000fps is even better. Some new phones can almost do 1000fps, and Sony make a camera that can do 960fps too: www.sony.com/electronics/cyber-shot-compact-cameras/dsc-rx100m5a#HFR-headline
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy thanks for this information. 700€ is a budget. I'll search other solution and will give you a feedback if i find something else. ;-)
Great vid again. That answers some of my curiosity. I have two questions.. How do we fix our actual arrow length with regards to our draw length? Is there a mathematical way? What is the recommended length to fix fletchers relative to the groove of the nock?
Ideally, we would like to shoot with the clicker about 4.5cm±1cm from the pressure button centre. So this should help to find the arrow length you would want.
For the fletches, the further back (closer to the nock) the better. The only thing to make sure is to have enough clearance with your fingers so you don't touch the fletches. But having them further back gives more arrow stability.
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy thanks for the reply, Ashe. Now, I understand. Appreciate it a lot.
TIMESTAMPS:
00:11 - Why you shouldn’t tune with your button
00:46 - Where the string picture should be on the bow
02:42 - HOW TO FIX YOUR COMMON MISTAKES
05:36 - When to aim during the shot
08:51 - Why aiming is NOT 2D
Hi
How can I control my weight balance?
Thanks
A question in relation to aiming if I may. I am finding an issue of my sight pin falling low of the gold at full draw and then I end up forcing the sight back up to the gold and struggling to do so, meaning that o release my bow arm will shoot upwards at times. Do you have any idea of what may be causing this and how best to tackle it. When it doesn't happen I am getting some nice grouping on the target, but this issue is really letting me down.
I would try this: first try and identify why it is happening. Do the "clicker extension drill" and see if the dip happens when you're coming into anchor/expansion, or if it happens just before you release. If it happens as you release then it's a case of doing some more clicker extension drills to condition yourself to maintain the position on release. If it happens when you are drawing/coming into anchor, then you need to find a way to draw without allowing it to drop below the gold. An example of this could be to make sure the sight is higher at the setup position.
How to solution arrow hit into the arrow rest
So this is very curious... I am a long time rifle competitor and I've recently (6mo.) started an Olympic recurve bow. I think that many of the principles of competitive rifle shooting carry over to shooting the bow very well, but I am struggling a bit with target focus vs. sight focus. In shooting the rifle, the focus is on the front sight, NOT on the target. The target can be blurry and I still can shoot tiny x-ring groups. I have gone back and forth on sight focus vs. target focus with the bow.... for me, it is not yet clear which produces more consistent results. Do ALL top archers have a focus on the target instead of on the sight? BTW - thanks so much for your video instructions... I am finding them VERY helpful.
I think most focus on the target in olympic recurve. You might want to instead look at passive vs active aiming. Active is trying to keep the pin in the middle while shooting, while passive as i know it is focusing almost completely on the middle of the target and then expanding towards the target. I personally prefer passive.
Thanks so much! I'm glad the videos are helpful :) The short answer is yes, pretty much all top archers focus on the target not on the sight. There very well may be a top archer that focusses on the sight, but I don't know of anyone so far! It's quite universal in that respect. Hope that helps :)
Hi, It's the first time I hear that the string picture is a personal preference. I've always been taught, and find it in many references ("Total Archery" for example), that the string picture should be on the touching the left side of the sight aperture (for right handed archer) and anything different is incorrect. Why is your opinion different?
Thats true but the most important thing is to choose where you want it and put it there consistently
Of course being consistent is important, but I think the correct (or better said optimal) position also matters a lot. By having the string picture on the side of the aperture it creates a fixed relative position between the string and the aperture. If you have some distance between the sight and a string, even if referenced to some other part of the bow I don't believe you can be that accurate, especially considering that your eye focus is on the target.
I'd like to called it "between" than "exacty". But its just personal opinion 😅
I understand what you mean, but it isn't true that it should be in one position. Some of the worlds top archers do place it on the sight, but many place it on the riser. I've been really lucky to shoot and talk with lots of top archers, and I would say that actually more place the string on the riser than on the sight!
Then please explain when we tune the "button". Thank ashley 👍
The button tuning is really for micro-tuning or fine tuning. This is when an archer is shooting 640-650+ on a Fita 70m round that the micro-tuning is worth doing :)
What kind of frame rate do you need to get video that shows anything useful about arrow clearance?
Absolute minimum is 250fps really, but 500-1000 is much better!
Thank you.
@@OnlineArcheryAcademy what kind of camera do you recomend to obtain this fps? Are there any phones that allow it?
How to find my corect anchor point?? or theres another way to find it?
I'll be doing a video in the future :)
Hi,
Very interesting video.
@ 5:30, you are talking about high speed camera, smartphone, and something having an high speed function, but english isn't my native language, and I don't undertand what is this "assala" you are talking about (the spelling is surely false, it's the name I hear)
I think he is saying 'DSLR', meaning a digital single lens reflex camera
@@mikeclarke8267 Tx a lot Mike
Sorry! Yeah DSLR is what I meant :)
honestly i cant even see my string when I'm at full draw