The NIKON Z6 is a low light MONSTER
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In this video I discuss and demonstrate how I use and operate flash when working with my Nikon Z6. Additionally I demonstrate the low light autofocus improvements and address the issue with the "apply settings to live view" menu selection. Hope this helps - Will
#NikonZ6 #Z6
You can have always the D8 on and assign the "Flash enable/disable" function to either FN1 or FN2 buttons. This allows you (while pressing the FN button temporarily) to see the ambient exposure with the flash turned on.
Great point. I’m going to pin this comment to the top!
Thanks man,this is what i was looking for. So i take back the word i say that Z 6 does not have this option. My bad. Thank you again!
@@stavrosgavalas have you tried it?
@@OkwyUgonweze yes,this was the one i was looking for
Man, this just proves that the next Z, hopefully for pros, has more custom buttons. I would love to use this but I need my fn1 and fn2 for AF related settings that don’t have their own dedicated buttons.
Daaaaaaaaaaamn man. The focusing in the dark test was wild. z6 is a monster. Expecting mine in the mail tomorrow, can't wait!
In this video I discuss and demonstrate how I use and operate flash when working with my Nikon Z6. Additionally I demonstrate the low light autofocus improvements and address the issue with the "apply settings to live view" menu selection. Hope this helps - Will
Wow, someone actually showing proof when they make a claim in a RUclips video? Madness! ;)
On a serious note, great video as always.
Thanks my friend!!
I use the Movie Record button to turn flash on or off (or change flash mode). I just assign it in the controls and it only does that when in still photography mode. The Movie Record button is "off" by default.
Great tip. Didn’t know the movie record button could be mapped, thought it was only the FN buttons 👊🏻
Best hack to date. Just reprogrammed my record button to flash mode. Thank you !!
Thanks alot man, that is tremendous information. It's a game changer. Let me tell you something, I basically only look at your videos regarding the Z6. I am glad you are around.
Have a good night
Amazing compliment man thank you!
Finally ordered a z6 today. Your videos helped me a lot to decide between z5, d750 and z6. Thank you for clearing so many of my doubts. There are so many good full frame cameras available that it is very hard to decide on one. And the amount of videos made my fanboy or sponsored content just add fuel to the fire. Thank you for your unbiased opinions. 🙏
I set up the FN1 button for turn the flash off so I don't have to physically turn off the flash. It saves me lots of time
I've always used the lower Fn button on all my cameras for Flash Off so that if I ever put on a battery grip I could still access it.
So helpful!! I haven't done a lot of low light work, so this really helped me understand a low light environment, my camera settings for low light and how to work with both. Thank you!!
So, most of the stuff i figured out myself by understanding how this camera focuses. It's simple, if you see blow out or too dark, it's hard to focus. I have something to say in addition. You don't need to activate Low Light function because camera automatically in AF-S bumps the exposure using the widest aperture and the effect is like you described in the video. Best use of AF-C in dark conditions is with the largest aperture. In AF-C, camera no longer goes to widest aperture when focusing. This applies with the D8 setting ON. When using OFF, the camera adjusts by itself to "see" better for focusing and that's why is better for the majority of people. Finally i can say that faster lenses helps in dark situation when focusing. My 35mm 1.8G adapted focuses better by a tiny amount than 24-70 2.8S native in very dark condition because of wider aperture. In dslr world i didn't sense that.
I have some tips to use in some scenarios.
1. When you are in low light situation with people moving around and especially with dark clothes. Darker situations in general require AF-S to be more precise, but if you use Low Light setting will increase the exposure and the EVF becomes laggy when focusing. You can miss the shot. It's safer with AF-C Dynamic 9 and wide aperture, or turn off Low Light setting and use AF-S.
2. When you are facing the DJ lights and from your back is no light. In this situation, DSLR wins by having that AF lamp assist. You can workaround with Z cameras by focusing in AF-S a bit to the left where the green lamp hits and recompose a bit. The green AF lamp technique works with lens hoods too.
Good job Will! People must know that this camera is amazing. Aaaaaand sorry for the long post...again.
Good explanation on what must be confusing for many. I use flash a lot, often is BL mode for balancing ambient and flash, so found the changes pretty quickly. Each firmware version has more impact than described in the notice of the update. One point, Low Light On is sensitive in AF-S mode and in that mode it can focus in Pin Point focus mode in extremely low light. It is rated at -6ev, which means the subject is to dark to identify by the unaided eye.
The changes so far have transformed the Z6/7 into real workhorse substitutes for the best DSLRs. The D800 and 850 relied on flash focus assist light on the flash to focus in very low light and speedlight assist light is not triggered by the Z cameras so it meant AF in very low light was difficult. Now it is a breeze. Now I do not miss the red/infrared patterned light that was so useful on the DSLRs. The Z bodies have the green light that can be used but lens hoods block its effective use. Since version 3, I do not miss focus on very dark scenes. I do not read many people commenting about the big changes to become a low light photo monster. One of my fun activities is shooting in dance clubs once they get too crowded for me to dance since. The 5-6 clubs I go to most feature the photos on their web site and the light is horrible, in dance clubs with laser sweeps, fog machines, colored light etc but even without focus assist lighting, nailing focus is expected now. it is a great way to get known for paid portrait sessions.
Geat comment, it just inspired me to change the name of the vid. 😂
Try seeing if a Vented hood helps. They're mostly used on rangefinder cameras so the user can see through the vents for focus but it still functions as a normal lens hood protecting your lens and keeping out flares
Really helpful! By the way, if you didn't use the flash, what settings would you use to get a correct exposure in that situation? (Approximately) (I do weddings in Chile, which are waaaay darker and hectic than American weddings, so your work in clubs seems like a good proxy to get an idea of the Z6 and if it could work for me. Thanks!)
@@Revan89 In the clubs there are lights but they are lasers, sweeps flashing and never white light so it is really hard to get people exposed well and not blowing out part of the scene. In an environment such as that with just balanced light(BL mode) the flash power it pretty low so it is not even noticed. Flash is so fast, people do not really notice it, it is not distracting contrary to what most photographers believe. Even in the studio where small apertures are used, so more strobe power, models or portrait subjects do not react or blink unless using slow flash like bulbs. You can verify that by the reaction from babies or animal, there is none from a strobe or speed light but there is on longer duration flash like the built-in flash on cameras. So, I would suggest talking to the couple, which is possible if you are doing photos before the wedding. Some churches are afraid of flash for two reasons, the old memory of exploding flashbulbs damaging paintings or artifacts in churches and museums. The other reason is strong wide spectrum light fading pigments in paintings and tapestries. That just does not happen with the light pulse speed of 1/8000 sec.
In cases were there is some light but bad, which is not illuminating the subjects, I would see what the scene Matrix metering is, and adjust in manual mode, to the lowest shutter you dare considering movement, and aperture as needed for your DOF, ISO needed to get up to 2 stops underexposed and use bounce flash in BL mode that will select a flash power needed to expose the focusing point for proper subject exposure. That is the easy way to get the feel of the scene and detail of the subjects. You might be surprised how low you can use for shutter when trying to get ambient up to -2 stops down.
If flash is not an option, get a signed acknowledgment that you will do your best but quality images require good light and without it, some photos will be noisy. Then, rise the ISO to your limit, based on how or if they are printed, the dynamic range(as ISO increases there is almost a linear decrease in Dynamic range so highlights can more easily blow out and colors clip. 3000 is pretty safe on the Z6 for prints, and if 10,000 is enough gain for good exposure with scenes with no big difference in highlights and subject for display on screens. With low dynamic range scenes, 20,000 can be remarkable good captures considering you only have 6 stops of DR. A way to reduce the DR of the scene is capture less field of view, for example framing the couple tighter using a faster longer lens. A lot of low noise information can be captured at times when there is little or no movement, such as during the ceremony shooting the couple from behind the priest towards the families and guests, at slow shutter speeds, IBIS with S lenses means 1/10 second means lowering ISO to reasonable numbers. Getting in close with 50 mm or 35 to the couple allows filling the frame with them and reducing the DR of the scene.
If you could reply with the setting of a typical light level photo that turned out well or one that did not turn out well I think that would be a good starting point so we know what lighting conditions you are dealing with.
For specific club shooting, if using balanced light, I go down to 1/10 or even 1/5 shutter so the sweep of lasers is seen well, and don't worry about freezing the background dancers but focus on a couple or individual for the focus point, set the flash to direct, not bounce and set the aperture for artistic intent, sharp subject and mostly ambient light and movement exposed longer so there is motion blur and the flash which has its own metering, in spot, triggers with the light needed to expose the subject well and since that couple or individual is exposed with a flash duration of 1/6000-1/8000 of a second, they are properly exposed and all motion is frozen. That is a good way to get rich colors of the room overall, and sharp detail of the subject at a low ISO. If the background it too dark, increase ISO a bit for the background in Matrix metering is -1.5 or 1 stop.
For overall scene illumination for scene shots, bounce flash would be used so there is a broader more diffused light of the whole scene. If it is outdoors at night you can get stars and skylight with the low shutter speeds. that allows a richer color saturation than if you exposed for the subjects.
If no flash allowed, getting tighter, higher ISO, fast primes, and getting close you may find that 1/30 sec is pretty doable for still subjects and do not be shy about directing the couple. There is obviously SOME direction the light is better from, to that direction, and shoot the couple with the light source to your back of 1/4 angle. In almost every event there is enough light from some direction so just make sure the backlight is behind your subjects. In reception, it is easy to direct them or just moving behind to between them and the light source. If I have free range of an event like the wings of a theater or Ballet stage, there are a lot more options in getting light to be your friend. If you shoot in the same venue often, go in advance at the same time you would be shooting and get a good look at light levels, direction and color/light temperature and that will make everything much easier.
Good luck!
@@stanspb763 Oh wow, Stan, you went super in depth. Thanks. I totally understand everything you said. Weddings parties in Chile use the same lights as clubs so 90% of the time I use direct flash to overpower the strong color cast and exposure of the beams.
I wanted to know an approximate exposure to get an idea of how dark were the clubs where you shot. The -6EV reference didn't gave me a good idea, so that's why I asked about exposure values. Depending on that I would get a sense about the Z6 AF capabilities.
Your comment is so good that you should make a blog post out of it. Very specific and useful tips.
Wow, awesome tutorial on Z6, thanks so much. As aspiring wedding photographer I learned so much from this than school!!
Another useful video. I played with it this morning. I focused in a dark room and could not see my subject. The meter was pegged beyond negetive exposure and in AFS it had no problem locking in. it was quite impressive. Turn on the light and you get the shot I wanted. very cool. Thanks Will!
Thanks for watching dan!
Your style was helpful but i think its cumbersome.
I think the best workaround is to turn off the D8, turn on your low light af, then the catch;assign preview to a fn button , set your camera to afs single focus point. This way each time you press the fn button assigned to preview it gives you the exact ambient outcome of the scene (that is momentarily turning on the D8) while the low light af on helps in focusing in that dark scenario, and your camera acts like a dslr autofocus.
This way you don't have to turn off flash to check ambience.
Recap ;
D8 off ;greatly improves autofocus and allows scene to be bright.
Low light af on; help focus in the dark°
Assign preview to FN button ; momentarily turns on the D8 to help you see the proper exposure without flash.
Compare this to your preferred style and let us know the outcome.
Hey bud thanks for the input. The issues I have with this is that I use my FN buttons for switching AF and activating the tracking box in auto area AF. Also I’ve tested the d8 on and off over and over with all different lenses and haven’t noticed a significant improvement in AF at all. I’ve shot every single wedding in the passed year and a half with d8 on. In terms of switching the flash on or off I guess it just depends on the workflow. When using flash I don’t really adjust ambient more than a few times when I walk into a room so it’s no problem flipping the switch a few times. This is all so personal though so finding what works for you is the most important!
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs fair enough 😊
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great "experience" sharing about flash/available and trigger off/on with single point AF. With all the settings having a huge amount of permutations, you could work with these great beasts for months or years without bumping into this. Thanks!
As always, easy to watch, focussing explained thoroughly and a great way to judge ambient exposure quickly!
Cheers😀
You are a boss man!!! Thank you! Just getting back into this hobby and super stoked. You are much help. Very well presented and detailed content as always.
Thanks
Chris
This sensor is one of the best rated, hes showing what test have shown.. good stuff..
Buy the R2 trigger and when you turn it on, it tricks the camera into brightening during continuous AF. It’s kind of amazing!
YES Will.. This was an issue for my Z6, and I had a bit of trouble in the studio but im glad they fixed it.
ME TOO!
Excellent video Will. This is another one of your very helpful technical videos to help people understand photography in general and the Z6 specifically. Thank you my friend for another great video bro. You, Sara and the kids be safe brother.
Glad this helped my man!
thanks for the video I almost always shoot off camera flash with a remote trigger on the z6...i get the most pleasing results and feel im always in control of my settings, but with the flash in camera us old time photo folks go back to our roots and just know the settings in joint effort with the flash...its about working with what you got to get the job done, and the z6 has done that for me VERY WELL
That D8 setting is already in many other cameras. It’s part of why I loved the Fuji.
Really good video....man I am learning so much here. Clear, informative and to the point....just great!
Just awesome! Thanks! Very Helpful. I learned so much.
As usual your video help me a lot. I learn from them, go practice and appreciate more and more my Z6. Continue the good work. Regards from Montréal.
Stay safe my friend 🙏🏻
Not to take away from anything you do on your channel or your passion for the Z6 and mirrorless technology...BUT you can, in fact, achieve a "Live View exposure preview" on DSLRs. I can do it on my D810 and my D750. I am sure it is MUCH better with mirrorless technology but none the less, it is possible.
The focusing during the LIVE VIEW is terrible with DSLR as most of us know but you CAN preview the exposure. It took me a year to find out how to do it sadly.
Keep up the great work and making great videos. I think your passion is contagious.
After watching the video I am wondering if turning that feature on with a DSLR would affect the other focusing modes as it did to the Z6 before the firmware upgrade.
Not sure if you will see this comment but do you think Z6 would be good for motion stop photography (shoot in burst mode) paired with a Continuous led for in club? I’m wondering if the hit rate will be better since there is always continuous light as opposed to using a flash? My friend uses the Sony A7iii he’s been successful and I know the Z6 is in that same line. Your thoughts would be really appreciated! I really love the Nikon files. They feels so nostalgic and true to life.
Thank you! Helped a lot!
Thank you for this video,really helpful.
Another thing it might be good to mention is that D8 doesn't really work on auto modes like Shutter Priority. Now, if the auto mode is able to make a correct exposure, then of course the display will look correctly exposed and so will the actual picture. But if you're in an auto exposure mode, and the camera just can't make a good exposure because the light is just too low or high, the display will still show a normal well exposed shot (just like if you have a flash turned on), even though the actual picture may come out black or blown out. You still have to pay attention to the flashing indicators on the screen to know if the exposure is not going to be good. The display may still look fine and the picture will come out dark or white. I've gotten caught being in a hurry to get a shot, glanced at the display and thought I was close enough to take the shot, only to see afterwords that it was greatly underexposed.
Your video shows you're in manual mode so D8 works as expected there.
These tips are great. I use a lot of these. The only issue I run into is using flash with Godox TT600 on camera. The flash icon does not cause screen to lighten up for me. When I use OCF trigger it brightens up. Just my observation.
forgot to say my only complaint is that we need an update that will not change the live view settings when a flash is attached, it defeats the best features of the camera and mirrorless, so we can just under expose the pictures to compensate for flash fire..don't you agree??
Another option is to set from f2 Custom control assignment to cancel the flash with joystick. When you press and hold the little joystick the flash turned off if you don't press it the flash works. Very cool! This works better for me because I need fn1 and fn2 buttons for AF system. I use the fn1 button to change AF function and fn2 for the cool option af tracking on and off.
That’s exactly how I have my FN buttons mapped as well 👊🏻
Concise and clear tips - some great info right here thanks so much!
The Z6 does it even with the trigger mounted on the hot shoe.
Yes, sure does!
Thank You
Great video and this is AMAZING
Thanks for watching my friend
Have you tried to set your metering to "meter for the highlights"? It can give a slightly (D8-on) darker viewfinder but you'll never have blown out wedding dresses. You may have to set up Lightroom to open up images differently. And In a dark wedding dance scene with a couple bright disco lights it may not work. The warning is, if this metering shifts the whole exposure too much down (left in the histogram) then you are going into the more grainy underexposed, potentially. I tested a new lens with a pano shot and forgot to take the exposure off auto (i have always shot "manual" all my life until the Z 7). Under a dramatically moody overcast sky - each shot having similar brightest spots in the sky, though - these shots could be pano-stitched and no exposure difference was visible.
I am ambivalent towards this longer term like I do not want to use zoomlenses. The former robs me no doubt off the exposure awareness, the latter of perspective/viewpoint awareness. Time will tell.
One more time, your videos are great. I would like to see some technical video about on camera flash for beginners, everything from built in flash like on APS-C to your V860.
I just like the way how you explain it.
I simply set my Fn2 button to enable/disable flash. Press it and it acts like flash is off, release it to get back in business. So much easier than turning a flash or transmitter on/off.
I personally prefer a SC-29 over my radio triggers because when I do events or receptions I can hang the flash around my neck if not in use and it's right there for off camera flash instantly when I need it; no batteries needed and hand free 🙌. It's not as good as say an SB-700 - SB-910 af assist but if I have the flash off camera in my left hand then I use the SC-29 AF on camera since it's looking at the subject its bang on every time. I'm using a D3s which only has -1EV low light autofocus while pretty much all modern semi-pro or pro bodies have -4EV up to -6EV center point AF.
Bro I don't understand why I never see anyone using or even mentioning the SC-29. (no batteries needed and reliable) allows you to keep your flash off your camera but you keep the low light AF sensor.
In case somebody is wondering: d8 on the Z6 II is d9.
Wow- valuable info
Thanks for watching Leonard!
Hi loving your Chanel I am a long time Nikon user with a stack of f mount lens older D and newer G I see that you like a full range of lenses including older style . I am hoping you can share your experiences with older lens cllassoc 70-200 ver first version newer 200-500 use it on my D500 a new. 80-400 I love this lens
I don’t want to take the loss and sell it all if I am going to do that I would prob switch brands
Any feedback would be great
Using AFS is a useful tip for low light AF. In general I find my Z6 works well in low light. It is just faster moving subjects that trouble the AF.
Thanks for watching man. I don’t shoot sports but have never had an issue with any part of a wedding, very much prefer it over my D850s
I don’t shoot sport much so it is a rare problem for me as well. I like your advice on preserving Live View as for me it is a big advantage for my Z6 over my DSLR. I find it very useful in controlling the amount of light very precisely before taking the shot, to get the look I want!
Totally agree sir!
Haven't tested the v3 firmware in the dark yet, but when I had to shoot a really low light event in January, I did not manage that well with the Z6. It was really low light, but still, AF was slow and inconsitent. I had to go to my trusty D750 and that did the trick as it always does (I use AF-S and 5-point group and D750 AF needs no light, lol). I have a feeling that one thing might be the IR AF-assist beam on an oncamera flash that the D750 can use but Z6 can't, that helps a lot in really low light (the white light on Z6 is really obnoxious in low light, so I can't use that). Otherwise I quite like the Z6, even it's flash control seems to be better than D750 (D750 does not seem to like to mix oncamera TTL with offcamera flash, Z6 has fared better sofar).
This is the best tips in 2020 thanks 🙏🏼 its really great explanation spicily the focusing in Low light
Glad this helped sir 🙏🏻
Pretty cool low light focus
Really does work great. Thanks for watching bud
Great great great video here. You explain so well!
Thanks for watching!
First of all, great video!
And thanks again for uploading it.
The thing is that before the 3.0 firmware, i was doing what Vagelis rokkas said. I made Fn1 button for the Enable/disable flash.
But with the 3.0, i need F1 to subject tracking, and Fn2 for change the focus mode.
I can't put it in other button.
So, i needed to know what is your workflow with that. Cause you work a lot on weddings and the flash is something you use a lot.
You got it buddy 👊🏻
I have heard that Nikon Z6 video color is true to life and you don't need to record in a muted profile. That would reduce time in post.
Color out of camera is amazing for SURE
hey Will amazing in-depth of exactly one of the questions I was wondering about stepping up from the D700 to a Z6 im 90% there but just have a couple niggling things that I still need to be sure before investing. By the way the way you explained it could not have been easier or better I have always learnt via doing as you were saying about not using a expo triangle or formula I just can't do it that way won't sink into my thick head that way I always fire test shots until I am happy and the go ahead shooting.
I just changed from a straight tx rx trigger setup and got the good XT2 just wondering which triggers and speed lights you use if you wouldn't mind charing the model numbers I trust you in the way I know I won't want to change them in a few weeks.
Sorry for the long reply and again amazing video nice to hear positive things about the nikons you and family stay safe fella
Neil UK
Thanks so much for watching my friend
There are godox speedlight which are great or you can invest into nikon flashes such as sb 800, 900. The latest 900 one is good if price isnt the issue but performance to money, sb 900 is just fine. If you invest into godox speedlight you can have whole godox system as they come with their own pro triggers and receivers
Also, test shooting before is always good, you work the way you find it easier and better. There are so many ways of doing a particular thing. Also I shoot with z6 myself if you want to go see some sample pic feel free to do so at @palden_garja on Instagram.
I mostly shoot with flash and i have set my joystick press to turn off flash when pressed and held, i leave apply settings to live view on. Putting a ttl flash or trigger automatically disables it and when the flash is disabled via joystick centre press then z6 defaults to apply settings to live view on.
This works for me while shooting with flash and natural light as well.
Great video. You really need to be a Nikon ambassador.
Preciate that brother!
The Monochrome Memoirs yes sirrr, you the reason I kept my z6 and didn’t go Sony.
I've seen shots to assess low light noise and color noise performance: the Z 6 was indistinguishable from the D5.
Up to ISO 102,000 ISO, the Z6 has less noise, better color fidelity and detail than a D5. They are essentially even at 102k but higher than that, the D5 does not get much worse for another couple stops. Part of that is the improvement in sensors and the later Expeed processor in the Z6, which uses the Expeed 6 while the D5 uses the Expeed 5. The net result is a fantastic performing Z6 in poor light. The D850 uses the Expeed 5 also, so the Z6 is the low light monster for all but insane ISOs in the stratosphere where no decent DR is possible.
Another fantastic video but it would be great if you could call it Zed 6!!! Keep up the great work.
Thanks my friend!
Hello , thank you so much for this video and your channel it really helped me a lot with knowing more about my camera. I have a Nikon Z6 and I’m looking for flash but I’m not sure if I necessarily need to buy a trigger for Nikon Z6 or are there flashes we can use on the camera directly?
Thank you
You forgot to clap at the beginning! Haha 🤣🤣
I cut it out because it was too loud 😂
Great video--good information I did not know!
Nice gems and a nice camera. Peace and love...
wow thanks for this video. ive been turning the d8 setting off everytime i put a flash on my Z cameras.
Awesome, this is so very helpful!
Glad this helped my man!
I shoot nightclubs and am wanted to go to mirrorless but I found issues using the Z6 in low light . The auto focus was hunting and not finding its mark most of the time . On my D5 it’s not a problem because I can be in total darkness and the focus assist from my flash (or trigger) enables me to hit focus in an instant . The big problem for the Z6 is the focus assist beam from the flash doesn’t work, it just doesn’t come on .
Apparently this is a common issue with mirrorless cameras and the way they focus .
Do you know if this has now been fixed in an update.
Also Something I noticed in the video, is your shooting 1/200 with an ISO of 640 which doesn’t really seem much like a low light situation to me . For instance imagine this scenario, which is probably familiar to you when your shooting dancing at a wedding gig , I’m in a dark club trying to get the right balance of the ambient background club lighting and flash on my subject who may be 1-2 meters away , My settings are something like f2.8, 3200 -6400 ISO, with a 1/40- 1/125 shutter. The people close are moving around a lot dancing with very little light on them. So with the grid focus assist from the flash or trigger I know that if that grid is on my subject the shot is going to be in focus when I click the shutter . But when I tried the Z6 in that same situation its in built assist (which is a lot more obvious and obtrusive than the grid ) it was missing most of the time and was hunting a lot for focus . I know you shoot a lot of weddings with a Z6 so If you know a good work around for getting the it to focus in the kind of situations I’m talking about it would be great if you could share it as that’s the only reason I can’t switch over to mirrorless.
thanks a lot for those helpful infos , thanks for your efforts .
Thank you for watching 🙏🏻
Hi There ! to me, you are confusing the EV of the scene (which the AF is working on) with the exposure settings of the camera. Does ist make sense to you ? Anyway many thanks to discuss the D8 Setting (D9 for the Z6ii with actual FW) since I had big bugs while shooting sport events and refreshing the EVF image after bursts, maybe this is the setting to disable to avoid that, I will check it soon... thanks for the input ! many greets !
This is actually very annoying when shooting for real estate, requiring multiple "touches" to the camera. My Nikon DSLR did not have this issue. Flash gear can be ON and you can still see the effects of your shutter speed adjustments in the live view screen. I wish Nikon would fix this!
I bought into the Z system back when it was released, i love the cameras I own 2 z6s, however I bought my first Canon camera (90D) and find myself using it more than my Z6 ,why? The colors I simply love the colors of the Canon, so much that I sold one of my Z6s and got the EOS R, I regret not doing it before, It fits my taste and I like the results better on my Canon, HOLD ON im not saying Canon is better im saying that works better for me and my photography, so I learned that we have to be open to choices because you never know what's gonna suit you best.
Awesome! Glad you found what works brother 👊🏻
Great video like always ,😉
@Kafala i never shoot 4k and also the RF glass is amazing no need ibis the lenses have IS.
Love the video, some great tips. I am learning so much as someone who is new to the Z6.
Can you tell me how you video the view as if looking through the view finder, as in this video. Is there software to do this ? Many thanks.
Thanks for the reply, not !
What about dance floors? Moving subjects in low light? I'm finding the z6 is constantly hunting. Any tips greatly appreciated. I use back focus continuous and object tracking. Thanks.
Why does the spec sheet on the z6ii show the min shutter speed is 900 sec? This can't be right, what am I missing?
Thank you!!very informative!!👍👍👍
Good morning, hanks for the great content! While using the Z6 as a professional camera, do you ever worry about not having two card slots? If you didn’t have your wife as another photographer at weddings, would that have influenced you to buy a camera with two slots? Would love to hear your thoughts on this and how you might handle this timeless debate. Cheers!
Hi and thank you for the interesting video. One thing: could you please raise the volume of your videos? Everytime the advertisment starts in the middle of the video, my ears are hurt, because I had to level the vid so high I could understand you... thank you, Stephan
Yes absolutely! Thanks for the feedback
And...WHAT IF ... its already dark and settings are ISo 3200 f2.8 SS90/125/160...will Z6 bright the scene as shown in this video at 9:18 ?
Amazing!
Have you compared it with the D780? I love it!
Hi, I would like to ask. Does Your Nikon Z6 also shoots 2-stops darker? I have mind that when I upload a photo to a computer, it's 2-stops picture darker than in the camera. JPG and RAW format, same shit. It very annoys. The differences is more visible in dark photos. Maybe it's my bed in settings.
Which one to choose - Sony A9 or Nikon Z6 ???
This is when you have bright scene... but its not the same to AF in dark, and to set values to look like dark. What if you shoot with flash on camera and ambient light is very dark?
ISo 6400, SS 1/90, f4 DARK, would it brighten the scene and be able to focus without AF lamp assist?
I got fn 1 set to disable the flash,very nice feature
Yep that’s another way to do it. I personally use my FNs for autofocus. Would be nice to have one more button!
I recently was struggling with low light during a client photoshoot indoors. No flash was allowed nor more lighting from my side. The place was quite dark and I had to photograph a kids birthday party so no slow shutter. Also my ISO over 1600 brings horrific grain. I wish I had one of these with me. Do you think it can handle low light handheld situations with moving objects well ? I am looking to switch my camera (I have a Nikon dslr but it's old and middle class).
What gear was used in the making of this video?
Need help with the Z6. My shutter is on silent mode and when I turn it off, its still silent. I want to actually hear the shutter for certain projects
Hi Ashley,
Go to your menu, select the “camera” icon on the left hand side then scroll all the way to the bottom and select “silent photography”. Make sure that’s set to off
The Monochrome Memoirs did that. Its still silent
It’s totally, completely silent? Can’t hear anything or is it just soft?
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs totally silent
Thank you, very useful
Glad this helped my friend
Can you please give some hints for the AF? I have two small children and I want to capture them with the 50mm f1.8 from a distance of 2m. I‘m not able to get a sharp picture in LowLight (ISO higher than 6400 in flat). Doesn‘t matter which AF mode. It‘s very difficult, because they are jumping and running and not waiting for my AF :)
This video is extremely helpful!!! I have a real rookie question: When you are in single point focus, the focus point turns green to confirm focus. I notice that in continuous focus, it does not turn green to confirm. How do you know you grabbed focus when you push back button focus? I know this is real basic but you “da man” on the Z6. Thank you. How you are staying healthy during these weird times.
Allen Buyck well it becomes green in af-s because that’s for stationary subjects like landscapes so it has that distance for focus locked in. For moving targets you use af-c you know its in focus when the focus points are staying around the subject and you can see if you think it’s sharp.
Allen Buyck another tip is that you set the ring in the lens to manual focus en just touch the ring so you see with peaking highlights if it’s in focus.
Tian Moezelaar thank you !!!
No Clap?
Call me crazy, but I feel like it worked this way before the 3.0 update.
Awesome vid thanks
👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
First I wouldn't say it's a low light condition when I it is possible to shoot with 1/200sec on iso800. Switching d8 ON affects only on viewfinder but does not change the lightning conditions, so even if the viewfinder is dark the camera "sees" the same. The viewfinder only predicts how the final exposure will look with those settings. Or I missed something?
The issues people were seeing was with dark exposures not just with low ambient light. The AF results are the same now weather it’s low light in the room or low light hitting the sensor
How did you move the exposure without the iso or shutter speed moving m?
Thanks for the video. I shifted from D750 to Z6 recently. I shoot both still and video. But now started loving making videos more. Should I move to Z lenses for that? Or can use my exciting F lenses (50/1.8, 70-200 vr2)? I have heard that for video focus tracking Z lenses are better. Does that matter? Is the focus breathing on continuous focus too concerning? Is that extra money worth?
Do you notice a major difference in quality since you’ve upgraded? I have a d750 currently and have been thinking of upgrading
Is the z6i and z6ii as good as the D3S in low light?
It's frustrating for me to turn on - off the trigger or the speedlight to adjust exposure in situations where the light is changing. I hope in the next firmware to add the option to assign a button for changing beetwin evf and flash exposure the way the Sonys do
Hey Stavros thanks for watching. I’ve never really had an issue with it to be honest. I always just sent my ambient then adjust flash power on the fly as needed
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs In many cases i shoot in golden hour to sunset to twilight. Light is changing very fast so i need to adjust my ambient and flash a lot (i prefer TTL for this), so i hope as with firmware 3 we can now change shooting modes on the fly, in the next update to give us the same for ambient and flash exposure without to turn on-off etc.
Totally hear you. Don’t forget you can map the “flash enable/disable” to your FN buttons
Has the banding issue being fixed with the low light shadow pull out at -6EV?
Your's workflow with flash just because of third party flash/trigger. If you'll try to use Nikon or Nissin flash you don't have to turn on/off it.
I still need to do turn my SB600 off to see the ambient exposure. As soon as the flash is turned on, the camera is trying to show you what the image captured may look like WITH flash. It’s not about the brand on flash.
@@JPStaats I checked, yes you right. It seems works normaly in Aperture/Shutter priority mode (brightness in LiveView changing with Exp. compensation).
Bykov Igor I will check it out. Thanks for the information.
I see you guys have already figured out the enable/disable idea. Here's a question though on your theory of low light and focusing: When you have the lens open the focus is easy because the room is 'light.' You are creating a 'dark' room by stopping down... but this is not actually the case is it? You are simply underexposing. I would like to see the same test with the room ACTUALLY pitch black (ie at night with the lights off) and then see the focus occur. I'm not sure, but I think there might be a fault in your theory.
I have a Z7 and have seen significant improvement in Low Light Focus, but I have yet to try it in a working situation because of the CV-19 of course.
Super interested to know how you control the i-menu so quickly though. Do you have a video on that? Thanks man. d
Hey Dennis,
The issues people were seeing was with dark exposures not just with low ambient light. The AF results are the same now even if it’s low light in the room or low light hitting the sensor. Pretty amazing actually, way better than it was before
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs Ok, I think I understand what you're saying. I'm really looking forward to getting back to the dark parties in part just to see how this update is going to work.
How do you switch between the iMenu settings in the finder so quickly? ie bypassing the iMenu button/adjust? Do you have a video on that? Thanks again. d
Yeah man it’s pretty amazing the step up to FW 3.0. As far as the i menu, we’re you talking about when I was flipping between AF S and AF C quickly? If so I have my FN 2 button mapped to my AF modes. If I hold that down and roll the front wheel it controls the AF modes (dynamic, single point, face tracking etc) and if I roll the back wheel it switches between AF C / AF S / MF. Was that what you were referring to?
@@TheMonochromeMemoirs YES! That is exactly what I was referring to. That's genius man, THANK YOU. I just set it up. Brilliant. Cheers! d
D8 in live view only works in Manual? No other mode?
With these very frequent updates, do you think the Z6 will become like the a7iii but better?
I like the Z6 better
The Monochrome Memoirs I understand, but based on what a lot of others say, the a7iii is better on paper. But then everyone who has actually used the Z6 for a while say it’s really good. Is that true then?
Funny and interesting... since i have my Z6 (June 2019), i'd never ever the Idea of using my Flash anymore... no need for it... instead; i got a little LumeCube for that little...ähm... "party-dingeling-spark" in the eyes ("spitzlicht" - keylight?! - you know what i mean)... but i'm still using my nikon cls-flash-system with my D800 für some creative work... maybe i should test that with my Z6?! ... maybe... someday...! ;) Greets from Munich!
Witch lenses do u use on your z6?
@@sottosopra4769 Only F-Mount with AF; 14-24/2.8, 24-70/2.8, 28/1.4, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 80-200/2.8, 200-500 and older non-AF; 20/2.8, 50/1.2, 85/1.4 & 180/2.8 - if Nikon comes with the 24-105/4 with Z-Mount i'd take it, but if not; i'll stick with my beloved, trusty older ones! ;)