Wire Connectors - Failed and Useless
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Cheapo wire connectors - unsafe and useless in any situation. Do not buy or use these.
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I am surprised the scotchlocks faired out that well, I have only used them once and that was to fit an artificial load resistor to my turn signal circuits after having installed LED lamps. I did however apply a dielectric grease before cinching down the connector and after buttoning over the plastic cover... No issues yet and that was 8 years ago.
I got my boom booms workin in my new vehicle and used 2 of these to splice a line level converter into one of the rear speakers on the back of my factory stereo, it's working so far. Boom Boom muffukah!
Those white gummies are awesome for speaker connection and low-power hobby projects. I love'em but i respect their limits. Great video.
I thought this was supposed to show how rubbish Scotchlocks are? Looks like they did fine right up to 30 amps! In any case, the only reason folks continue to buy these rather than the far superior Positaps, is that in Rip-Off Britain we are (yet again) forced to pay ludicrous amounts of money for something that people in the USA and pretty much everywhere else can buy for about a third of the price. Greed leading to failure...
I used scotchloks extensivly when I manufactured trailers, never had any trouble with them, the screw and spade connectors in the lamps were always the trouble spots.
Equiluxe1 did you use the gel filled ones?
can you put heat shrink around?
@@rekostarr7149 If they were likely to get really wet I wrapped them in self amalgamating tape otherwise I just left them as the insulation displacement was enough sealing in most cases.You cannot do this with tail or side lights which tend to pull in moisture over time however well made they are.
I've found those doubtful connectors sold as part of a 12V DC system for outdoor garden lights. Against my better judgement I installed them as directed by the manufacturer, it was certainly easier than soldering or even crimping with standard connectors. The system lasted a year and then failed, one by one. The problem was corrosion at connectors, with water from the sprinkler system getting in, even though I taped them carefully. Of course overheating was not part of the equation. It is so irritating that manufacturers aren't honest about how they saved a few cents to meet a price point, sacrificing durability. Plumbing fixtures for humidifiers and fridges have the same kind of flaw in the plumbing field. Wise consumers wouldn't trust such an obvious weak link.
Well at least those crappy white things have overload protection - they just melt and the wires fall out!! 😃
We've used Scotch locks in the past for various automotive auxiliary items, towbar, spotlights etc without any problems.
Small Scotch locks with grease are widely used in the telecoms industry and last for decades. The wire is solid core and the exact correct diameter. Krone connectors are a similar insulation displacement device and in pretty much any home with a landline. The only time they fail is if the cable is not cable tied in. Or they get wet.
John, I find your channel very entertaining and informative and I especially like your dry sense of humour! There's nothing like having a laugh while getting a refresher on stuff which has been stored away in the memory, but its flow to the front of the head has been impeded by old age, especially when it's most needed.
I would never had dreamt of using 'scotchlocks' on anything connected to the mains. I have used them in cars when it wasn't convenient to solder connections, but ideally I would have soldered connections and wrapped them with self-amalgamating rubber. Since heat shrink became more widely available ( it was widely used in industry long before it was heard of by installers) I've used that.
Your comment, 'this Chinese type of stuff', is a bit misplaced since the vast majority of the electrical or electronic equipment we use in the UK is actually made in China, and some of it is of very high quality.
I wish I had a better memory before I buy things! I knew I had seen these somewhere but forgot about the video, so I bought a box of these white spring connectors from Amazon "Senven 68Pcs Spring Quick Terminal Block Terminal Block 10A" in February 2020 and today tried them connecting an LED pixel panel (64 LED's @5v) and yes they started to melt enough for contact to be lost as the wire imbedded itself into the contact block at around 5A. Keep up the brilliant content John and I will try to remember more of what you tell us not to buy!
Scotchlock are Insulation Displacement Connectors. Millions of them are in underground telephone cable splices, which incidentally use solid conductors.
I was surprised to see the red ones survive! - I absolutely HATE them, since installing them in cars will give you erratic problems that are hard to pinpoint and fix.
They will be totally destroyed soon.
@@jwflame sounds good 😁
I can understand now why there are a lot buildings going on fire.
I believe Sony and Pioneer still include those Scotchlock connectors with their AV head units for tapping into a reverse wire to trigger the reversing camera. I think some do it for the handbrake too.
it could be interesting to compare the resistances of various connections - whether any of them adds a significant amount of resistance
This video is quite interesting, although he compares only various wago connectors: ruclips.net/video/UsJffbx_l7E/видео.html
Glad I watched this - have just bought some led ceiling lamp fittings which were supplied with those white connectors - supplied by CPC-Farnell who really should know better. My lamps will be connected with Wago connectors in proper Wago boxes, and I’ll take some pleasure in chucking the white ones in the bin.
Scary stuff. When I was a spark back in the 1980s, the NICEIC inspector told me not to use nylon connector blocks (I used them, for example, for connecting neutrals in a switch back box where I had brought the feed into the switch, if I had decided for some reason not to use the loop in method). He told me that the maximum temperature nylon connector blocks could safely operate at was less than the maximum permitted conductor temperature for twin and earth, which at that time was 70 degrees celsius. He advised me to use bakelite items instead, and I did so. They took a little longer, as one had to cut them with a hacksaw, and file down the sharp edges. Sadly, I am old enough to remember screwits....
Screwits were lethal.
Post war 'Screwits' were made with porcelain insulating shell, love them or loath them they resisted combustion - unlike many modern connector types. Screwit design seems to be the favorite type of connector and still very acceptable in the USA, please correct me if they are not.
@@oldbutstillcurious3615 The porcelain ones were banned in the UK, and mud sticks, so plastic wire nuts aren't used much either.
The smoking wires and connectors would have been an easy issue to fix --- just post a "No Smoking" sign in the testing area :D :P
Scotchlock connectors were supplied with just about every aftermarket automotive accessory at one time and seem like a good idea until you find that they are not reliable. I did install an alarm (microscan I think was the make) which explicitly stated in the instructions to not use scotchlock connectors.
Seems the biggest problem with Scott block connectors was the person installing them. This test shows installed correctly they perform flawlessly.
Not just aftermarket, Toyota still supplies them with genuine electronics accessories.
I think scotchlocks usually failed on towbar brake lamp wiring just as you were approaching a disaster at high speed on a motorway. Whilst towing a caravan.
Whether they fail or not, it still sounds like you're fucked!
That's because most people left them exposed to the elements. We all know what happens when 2 dissimilar metals meet and are splashed with salt water right? 🤔
I use the scotchlock connectors in 16 ga for my trailer's 12 volt front running lights. The standard kind with the slot in the side you can push the brown wire through sideways. Then tap off to the light. Then I check for continuity, and cover it with several coats of liquid electrical tape. Now it's waterproof. Piece of cake.
Cool video, well explained. Regarding low volatage wiring - I've been working with low voltage wiring for a long time. Communication cable, automotive 12V, old type 2 pair telephone cable/wire, etc... Honestly, I find the most tight & secure connection is an old school splice of twisting the wires by hand then further twist with long nose pliers or shears then finish with electric tape. I can pull on every connector and it will come apart. I pull on my twisted splice and it won't fall apart. Connectors have their purposes for neatness, certain connections and braiding wires but to put 2-4 low voltage wires tightly twisted together, tight wrap with electric tape and tucked away I find nothing wrong with.
Interesting, thanks for the feedback
Connectors fail when used improperly
Thanks for testing these but no real surprise. I use the white ones only for 5v Arduino logic stuff on the bench.
Same here - really handy for low voltage/current builds. Would never think of using them on the mains.
Ye.. I never seem to have connectors for anything so hooking up batteries to little projects they're most useful 😁
Not really suitable for permanent use but very handy for temporary low voltage / current applications.
Why not use Wago for that?
I, too, use the white ones but never above 50 volt and 2 to 3 amps, Scotchlocks are the work of the devil! As with many things in life it's horses for courses, just use common sense with connectors.
Another problem with the Scotchlok connector (a.k.a. "tap-in squeeze connector") is that the sharp contact-blades actually slice into the wires and cut a lot of the strands. I have taken apart connections that had been secured with these beastly clips, and found that around half of the total strands had been cut through! I had to solder-fill the damaged areas to restore the wires' current-carrying capacity.
Only if it is used incorrectly
@@techmetal2292 No, it almost always happens. If you use a sharp-edged instrument on stranded wire, it's always gonna cut some of the strands, period.
scotchlocks...remember them in the 80s when we used to fit stereos into cars which didnt have them, always trouble, usually severed the original cable or corroded, so not only did your radio not work, you usually messed up something else as well as.
They're not so bad if you use the correct type (different colour for different wire size, just like insulated crimps), unfortunately they were sold to idiots who had no idea of the difference. Using yellow on small gauge wire will be unreliable, using red on large gauge wire will cut through the strands and effectively reduce the current carrying capacity.
IDC connectors, including the real 3M Scotchlok connectors, are still widely used and reliable.
@@stefantrethan
Yes. Many RJ45 sockets for networking utilise IDC connections. They are fine so long as they are used as intended, indoors and not overloaded.
Probably a combination of vibration, moisture, and misuse, most of all misuse, are the reason why they do not fare as well in automotive applications.
Exactly, and misuse is the reason why the white terminal blocks in this video are not approved in the UK, because some idiot would use them where they should not be used and burn down an entire block of flats. Not helped of course by the lies from the Chinese sellers, who seem to vary in how much current they say they can handle safely.
I bought a package of the white chinese things and for quick/low voltage they should work ok. I have used ScotchLocks for years and I have no problems; you just have to install them correctly and coat with silicone in a wet environment. The main problem with the 'scotchlocks' (including chinese version) is they have to be installed correctly and no-one generally knows how that is; I do now-no problems.
Exactly, I’ve put thousands in at Toyota. Never a failure
The white connectors are useful for prototyping on the bench when you need to make quick (obviously high impedance) connections. I've been using scotch locks in my cars (interior) reliably for years without issue. Clearly, both not "useless in any situation". You have a talent for overstatement.
Couldn't agree more. The problem with Scotchlocks is usually the person installing them-- or using them exposed in an outdoor application. John did it right...and as we see here, they were still going strong at 30 amps!
I'm impressed with the scotch-lock style connectors. Simple to use and seem to hold up quite well.
Til they start to corrode, and they cut through some of the wires inside the wire, so you start getting corrosion and over time and movement (such as on a vehicle) they loosen up and with the corrosion you get intermittent contact and/or the damaged wire pops where the blade cut through the insulation and nicked or cut the conductors and created a weak spot. They're junk. Do a proper splice or forget about it IMHO. Not worth the electrical gremlins that inevitably come from using them over time... only proper place for a scotchlok is in the trash bin IMHO! Later! OL J R :)
Agree completely on the spring loaded connector block accidentally disconnecting leaving live wires dangling out of the ceiling. Happened to me while decorating the ceiling: what seemed to be a safe insulated connector left me staring at switched live and neutral as I moved the connector aside to cut around some wallpaper.
You are perhaps a little unkind on the Scothlocks. Insulation displacement connectors using the right size of cable ought to be pretty reasonable. Of course not for mains use and not suitable for use outside a protected (i.e. not wet) environment. Not bad for auto use. Nowadays Wago is king.
Used often fir wiring towbars electrics nowadays a relay and connector us required recently had a towbar fitted and the guy who fitted worked for proffessional installation company and soldered all connections when i asked why he said much more reliable and no hi resistance joints he was ex army electronics guy so i was impressed that he still used soldered joint he used Cordless Gas Soldering Iron...
Wow!!! Lets me honest here, thats alarming to be honest. Those rinky dink white connectors are used by lots of people who don't know any better and you know that people are using them on mains voltages for whatever they see fit. Thats scary. JW, what about redoing this test but put your thermocouple on the terminal block to see what temp it starts melting at?
I have seen those spring type connectors on cheap light fittings, they used a three way version for this application. The middle one was connected to a painted piece of stamped metal and was intended for the PE. Obviously it didn't make a good connection, I replaced them all for Wagos.
With a lot of newer automobiles using aluminum wiring (thanks, bean counters), I've had to resort to using the scotchlok connectors when needed. Aluminum does not solder well, which is my preferred method of joining wires together.
Vehicle manufacturers do not want you soldering their wires. They will blame soldered wires for computer fails etc. when I worked at Toyota the only connector allowed for splicing was the T-tap or scotch lock style as shown in this video, it was also what Toyota provided with any add on accessories
I use the white one's for low voltage/current stuff, like for quickly connecting sensors to arduino inside an enclosure, CCTV wiring, or low voltage LED lighting. Nothing wrong with them for the right application.
Which ones are good for led diodes for rc vehicles ?
The white clamp things are junk, only ever use them for low voltage/current projects. If it's got no safety approval avoid! Fancy clamping a conductor to plastic.. A big fail. All they had to do was bend the metal clamp over like on the Wago connectors.. Duh.. Great video again JW 😎👍
I replaced a dish washer at 230V 16A AC where someone had cut off the plug
and connected some wires with that screw terminal you show on the left. (As your input)
And he wrapped tape around it.
After 15 years in service that screw terminal has been molten to a chunk of plastic !!
"You´re a lucky woman that your house is still here!" I told the housewife...
I used schotchlock connectors for years and never had a failure. You had to use the proper sized reasonable quality wire and not have them hanging in a pool of water. Do that and they are fine. Or to put it another way if the scotchlock failed it was your fault not the connector. In this test they worked fine so I see no reason for criticising them.
For the first time in my life I'm actually impressed by Scotchlocks. Normally even the name is like garlic to a vampire 😝 but those chineesium monstrosities make them look tip top.
It's the crimp ones that suck, I always end up soldering them on and breaking the little plastic bit off because they NEVER hold.
Tried some superseal connectors supposedly designed to fit 2.5mm cable , unimpressed with their ability to grip cable is an understatement. As a last resort I tried soldering the things in and the metal parts refused to stay in the plastic.
Scotchlocks are bulky and unsightly, if the wire gauge is too thin then there is a risk of poor connection. I prefer to join wire using solder and heatshrink, failing that I use butt crimp terminals. I particularly like the heat-shrink butt crimp terminals for a really neat and water-resistant connection.
Very frightening, thank you for posting this.
Nice methodical test, very scary that the white spring connectors will accept large cross section cable.
My brand new boat trailer was wired with these scotch lock things and they failed immediately. I had to solder the connections and I've had no issues since. It's a shame that they take these kinds of shortcuts.
I bought a pack of 30 of the three-way connectors to play with - so tempting to find a low current / voltage use for them at 1/10 the price of even knockoff Wago 222s ... it strikes me that the spring steel against melty plastic might actually potentially constitute overload protection if the circuit is arranged to break when they overheat ;)
Shocking that the 3 way ones actually have LNE, 250V printed on them ... I initially thought I saw "13", but it turned out to be just "3" - and with no "A" anywhere in sight.
John, adoro seus videos, seus testes salvam nossas reputações como eletricista. Obrigado! John in Brasil!
Nice tests.
despicable Junk! .. I love your proper terminology.
Those white connectors look superficially like the ones Ikea use on some their pendant light fittings I have seen but they have a cable strain relief and are rated for less than 100w bulbs.
I'm watching this on April 4, 2020. John Ward videos are just the thing when self isolating!
The scotchlock was also available with an inbuilt grease barrier to assist against ingress. We used these in ici believe it or not.
Schindler loves this type with the built in grease waterproofing, as it makes running shaft cabling easier.
Known as ‘jellies’ i believe - used extensively in BT green cabinets
If you were alive in 1970 you would have used more than a few 'Scotchlocks'. The design is much cleverer than a perfunctory glance might suggest, and there are obvious reasons why it will not diminish current carrying capability IF used as designers intended. It will always be better than a length of spring steel as found in the quick connectors. (science says so). Thing is everyone just used one colour and unless it is matched to the cable it is useless. We use 'jellies' on data and telecoms which is a small version and these are perfect every time x billions and do not fail ever. John though I don't think will alter his opinion.
I think the test proved they are not junk (0;
Scotchlocks should be installed using dedicated pliers, not just any plier.
Where can I get those white quick connect slow blow fuses from?
They come with every IKEA ceiling lamp.
I'm not sure this is an ideal test. In a short circuit, you are heating the wire. So, this test is more of "Which has the least heat resistance?" The metal connectors of the white connectors fared well. But the heat got to them. How much heat was passing through the wire?
So why were the red scotchlock connectors worthless?? It looks to me like they performed rather well.
no longevity, especially in their intended application
A FLIR would have been handy for monitoring those red connectors. And amusing for the white ones.
My dad used them scotchlocks for 27 years when fitting towbars and never had a problem with them. So maybe it's people not doing a proper job in the first place thats the problem not the scotchlocks.
How exactly would one not "do a proper job" with these? There's not exactly much to using them.
@@bluelightningnz I don't know but looking at the comments it appears people are. As 27 years without problems prove they work fine.
for 20 years I would put my unprotected penis in the usual slumdogs you find at the local watering hole, not once did I ever catch a sexually transmitted disease. Using your logic and based on my personal observation it's perfectly fine to abolish condoms.......
Or perhaps other unseen factors attributed to my rather "lucky" situation.
Be it brand of slumdog or the tool I'm using for example.....
Do you get where I'm going with this? Humor isn't easy to convey via the typed word. ;)
more than likely he wasn't the one who had to fix the aftermath of using them, as an auto tech for 30 years i repaired thousands (really!) of nasty corroded scotchlocks
@@tamtgirl so no one had a phone to ring and say there was a problem with the towbar electrics and it was due to that scotchlock that you fitted which cost me £££ to have fixed, or that no body rang up and said my electrics on the towbar aren't working can you come and fix it. Plus how can they corrode when fited inside of the car ?
I rather like the red ones, just need to solve the corrosion problem. Could a quick dip in some sort of sealant solve the problem while keeping the benefits of splicing into a line?
We used to use grease / petroleum jelly back in the day before we realized how crap they were in automotive. Now we are all twist and solder people.
I have this fake connectors and when using it on high amp (3 ~ 5 Amp) motor cable the plastic will melt due to overheating...completely useless
I use the white spring-loaded connectors in my workshop but never above 50 volts or 5 amps. Anyone using them for mains must have a death-wish, Wago connectors are the only ones I would trust.
So informative thanks
I have had them blow apart with over loads an shorts screw fix has always lasted yes it takes about 30 seconds longer
So the T-Taps (aka Scotchlocks) are OK?
scotchlock made a connector like the spring from the middle of a clothes peg you would twist it on and then two little tabs would snap of at the correct tension . we used them on iduction heaters scotch made high temp to cover them in and they where an improvement on the ceramic connectors used previously . these heaters worked 24/7 40 amps
Those red connectors. Are they good enough to use for an application within a dash behind a car head unit? It’s going to be used for steering wheel controls but I don’t want to cut the wire in the car. I’d rather use a tap. Steering wheel wires won’t have a lot of juice running through them.
In theory yes - that's what they were originally used for. Get some decent branded ones, not the cheapo type in the video.
John Ward okay thanks. I did look up some more reviews though and the more I looked the more I think I’ll look for some posi taps instead.
A connector worse than a skotchlok. Never thought I'd see that!
what connectors would u recommend for 20-26ga (automobile) stranded wires? thx
Agree. Very bad connector. Weak plate. Weak spring action. Weak plastic. Absolutely not recommended.
scotchlock, designed for telecoms world (where they do their job well), but that's where they should have stayed
We call those connectors Fisheyes in Sweden, and I really liked them when working with PBX and telephone installations. You could use the proper tool, or a flat plier or most common, teeth. Filled with Vaseline to be almost waterproof.
when the trainees go to crimp them first thing they grab is pliers, but dont realise there is a reason the proper ones are designed the way they are, they crimp evenly unlike pliers .. and yeah, im not sure what gel is used in these ones, pretty sure I really dont want to try it with my teeth :)
What brand is that Connector.
I would like to know What are the best John
What do you call those white connectors?
piles of junk white connectors might be rated only at 12vdc ? seems like thats all theyd be good for...... wonder... John, can you produce high current 12/24/48v DC?
Thanks for the good videos
I really dislike these kind of 'quick' connectors. Especially the ones that replace good quality brass terminal blocks. They seem to be becoming more prevalent in all manor of electrical goods just to save the manufactures money and the installer time. Total rubish
They are not designed to work over 10A.. Perfectly useful for other light load devices and
Not designed to work over 10A either.
@@jwflame my bad. It’s over not under. corrected
Two questions if I can? First, the Wagos from other video.. do you recommend either for normal use in electrical installations or did your test find them to be worthless? I like the idea of them but was not sure from your video their safety?.
Second is probably more simple. I have the old red book. Was there a difference between the red and the yellow book other than amendment three? Should I buy a copy of the yellow book on sale while trying to afford the new blue book?
Figured would ask you as I am not as skilled as you are. Thank you.
Wagos are fine - in the other video the plastic outer melted, but only after putting 5x the rated current through them. Even after that, the wires and metal piece remained connected. ruclips.net/video/bP0qHyVAymU/видео.html
The differences between the red and yellow book are relatively minor, although as usual they are spread throughout the book. However if you already have the red one, not much point in buying the yellow, as the bulk of it is the same, and plenty of things in the yellow one have been changed in the blue 18th one.
ok, thank you. saving my money for the blue one then... My selection is a mish mash.. red book, yellow onsite, blue onsite, two uglys and 2011 and 2017 NEC..lol...
surprised that the scotch locks passed your gauntlet intact... as for the cheap white lever locks i could see them being useful for small voltage, low current circuits i.e. 12V & 1A, or less
3:50 What would you recommend using for me? I want to tap in to my front speaker wires in my car. Which I would do on the inside of my car (Not inside the door). To add a Hi to Low converter for my subwoofer.
Crimps or solder with heatshrink over.
@@jwflame Sorry for my stupidity but how do I add a heatshrink cover over an uncut wire? Since thee wires are too short te cut, if I cut them, I would never be able to join them again.
"DREADFUL."
What would you use Instead of a scotchlock
Crimps or solder, with heatshrink over.
+John Ward
For cables in a car, where the wiring loom is subject to vibration, I'd go for crimp rather than solder. Solder joints have problems with the change in profile at the joint causing concentration of stress and the solder causing a degree of brittleness in the copper. A lot of the times I've tried to fix cheap Chinese electronic gizmos it doesn't take much handling before the wires soldered to the PCB snap at the joint. For an in-line joint, heat shrink will help a lot to minimize vibration problems but I'd prefer crimp.
Crimp is about as reliable as it gets. And if the connector has a crimpable strain-relief/sleeve you don't even need heat shrink.
I remember the day a Hellerman Deutsch rep showed up with a sample crimp connector and cable sawn through to reveal how the crimp had compression-welded to the cable. Yes, sawn because it was a connector for a high voltage transmission line. The cable was a couple of inches in diameter. It wasn't anything even remotely usable in my line of work, but it was something he was proud of and a joy to behold, so he brought it in. And I was happy to see it, even though I didn't have any use for it.
I get what you're saying but I still solder and heatshrink. It's the only way (in my opinion) to make a reliable connection with confidence.
+Johann Wyss
This is your opportinity to revolutionise the avionics industry. They're all fuddy-duddies who insist that crimp joints are more reliable. :)
Yes, you have to have the correct tool and use it correctly, but crimps are more reliable than solder when done well.
Look at the factory wiring in your car. Not a drop of solder. All crimped. Millions of cars. But good crimping tools are expensive. Hence ... scotchlocks.
Just twist the damn wires!!
How hard could it be?
Great work as always John, one suggestion however, rather than just saying the current could you say the power or the current and voltage.
10 amps is nothing if the voltage is .5v etc. It's hard to relate this to actual usage.
Kind regards,
Johann
The voltage drop across the connection is the same in both cases, as there's no significant voltage drop within one connection. Only the insulation has to be rated to withstand the rated voltage.
Is John applying mains potential or 12v dc.....?
@@brainndamage Yes, thanks for making me think - the same power dissipated in the connector regardless of voltage, assuming the same current. Power dissipated in the connector being proportional to the square of the same current (Johann chose 10 amps as his example).
I agree completely about the scotchlok connectors. Having tried many of them from the time they were first released on the market. The biggest fault is a propensity to corrode and the fact that they easily cut the conductors and reduce their ampacity drastically. Used in any outdoor situation they fail in short order. Because they can so easily increase the resistance they are a danger even when used indoors. I still see them occasionally and most times they are the cause of intermittent issues or dead shorts. Costly to troubleshoot and a disaster in marine applications. This is another product the manufacturer should have been held accountable for but has not been. They show up a lot included with cheap accessories such as car radios etc. I would not use one if they paid me! Take care. Doug
Nice video
Theyre fine for my 9 amp stereo.
Great video John! Will you perhaps re-visit the red variety of connector and see what it can really take? My bet is failure at 40A. :)
Soon.
Wicked, can’t wait mate. Stay safe! :)
Are the red ones safe to use on car stereo wire harness ? Your advice will be appreciated
the white ones are supposed to withstand 10 amps acording to the chines producers. but what do you expect from them. these despicable things :))
Scotch locks cut into the cable I won't use this
smoke up and melt =thats what they do
I've had wago type connectors burning out on an outside lighting circuit with an inductive load of 5.7 amps! Not good you can't beat good old screw terminal connectors with the screws done up tight enough and both wires under the screw!
I think the problem with the wago type connection is the spring loading is not strong enough causing too much heat then eventually burning out the connection!
The heat make's the problem worse by making the springs loose tension by tempering the metal!
Michael Johnson - please be more specific with your scare mongering Wago Type - what is that supposed to mean? Are you suggesting people should avoid using Wagos?
cannot reproduce. have used them for years without issues. (and i have used many diffrent of them, both with lever and without)
but, as with every connector, it has to be installed properly to work properly.
I assume based on your description that you didnt remove enough insulation (for most types its ~11mm) and/or didnt push them in until they hit the end of the casing, rather just until the spring gripped.
I didn't install them!
Michael Johnson I think everything you said just does not apply to genuine Wago connectors. Of course a poor installation will wreck the intent of any designer or manufacturer.
I’m not that convince with wagos, I prefer old fashioned screw connectors. The modern American wire nuts look good to me. I remember the old porcelain screw connectors, they were dangerous.
Buy cheap connectors like these at your peril!
the white ones are rated as less than 10A and there is a warning not to exceed 1500w
Didn't mention any ratings for the ones I received but it's pointless rating a connector in watts as 1500 watts at 12 volts would be 125 amps. Connectors are rated in amps with a stated maximum voltage.
Never use such reds in cars. Have seen many such with poor contact between the cables. Solders and puts shrink tube to get a good joint
Can someone help me with
What is the diversity factor (%) for a..
Cooker in a hotel
Fridge in a hotel
Dishwasher in a hotel
lighting in a hotel
Power sockets in a hotel
Vending machine in a hotel
Arberor
Check your regs book!
If you don’t have one you’re probably not an electrician and should not be carrying out this work.
Arberor
Same diversity factors as for a b&b.
jay r To I'm a student, the regs book says for a cooker in a hotel 100% of the largest appliance, 80% of the second largest appliance and 60% of the remaining appliances
By appliance is that in reference to the cooker fan, cooker oven, cooker, etc or is it in reference to other appliances
Arberor If the cooker is on a radial circuits it’s the total load.
jay r for lighting circuit the on site guide says 75% for a hotel but my tutor told me it was wrong
Does vending machine and dishwasher just go under the diversity 2. Heating and power or 9.
John Ward Steadycam Operator on Robing Hood prince of thieves.
Jesus i was going to buy yesterday the white ones on the cheapos, but i end with this for re-using :
www.connectorterminals.com/product/electrical-wire-joints-and-splices-waterproof-2-wire-connector-quick-wire-connectors-quick-connect-wiring-connector-mkvse-201-a
It's a clone of the Wago 224 201 and its better than the clones of the 222 43X because i was able to break the levers with a few manouvers and got the above for exchange.
Damn those chinese clamp things are amazingly crap. I thought they looked fairly solid in their clamping powers but they seem to make them from some horrible metal
edit: I found your test, what i ask. ruclips.net/video/hGuK9ZajhN0/видео.html