LOL, used water, 600 grit sand paper then some of the Nu-Finish Car Polish in the orange bottle. I put some on a T-Shirt and rubbed it like heck. It worked great. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good video! Great job showing the lifting points and jackstand locations. I was also surprised at where you put your floor jack and 2x4 to support the engine/transmission. Every other video I've watched has put the support under the oil pan of the engine. You put the support under the bracket for the engine mount itself! That's exactly where it should be! Thanks!
OH thanks Mr. A Jay. No I bought a newer car, a 2014 Murano, so I sold it a few years ago to a friend who needed it more than I did. But I left the videos up so folks could use them to fix their vans. Glad to help anytime. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for your replying back.. Did not see any vids on the rear tranny mount..the other videos guys put up had bad quality with no detail.. I ask is the rear difficult to change? What state do you do these vids from. I forgot to bigg up your camera person and the young mechanic trainer he will need it as I try to expose him early 18yo. I
Yes it's very difficult to change, this is one I personally would hire someone to do, unless you just can't afford it. There are some pretty bad videos on that mount, but if you watch several of them you'll get the idea when you crawl under there to do the job. Read my replay to Dayne B. just below that I posted yesterday. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey thanks Abraham. These vans are getting old and start to require a LOT of maintenance to keep them running. Regarding the engine and transmission mounts please read my responses to Heather Minnich below. The is some good information I gave here that you should keep in mind for the future of these mounts. Thanks for watching Norm, and glad to help. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Ken thanks for the help on the other motor mount. Now i'm waiting on this part. Hope you have videos on the transmission mounts because those are next.
Hey Walter. The mount behind the drivers wheel isn't to bad. The one I would pay a transmission shop to do is the rear transmission mount unless you're a contortionist and like to cuss like a sailor, it's a real bear. Here's a list of a few things you have to do: You have to remove some emission boxes and hoses under the car right under the drivers seat. Those emission hoses have some plastic clamps on them that you may have to replace. There is also a heat shield bolted the top of the mount with a 10mm bolt. The new mounts sometimes don't come with the hole tapped out so you may have to do that like I did. If you don't have a set of reversible ratchet combination wrenches this is a good excuse to get a set. Get the DeWalt 10pc Metric Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set # DWMT72168 or for SAE get the # DWMT72169 set. They are really nice and if you wait for a deal you can get a set off ebay for around $50 bucks. If you don't want to wait you'll pay $65 bucks and up. I've been really busy working on my sons 2003 CTS so I haven't had time to edit those videos yet, and it's not looking like it coming anytime soon, sorry bro. Hope this give you a little info that can help. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I would suggest, if you do these type of jobs often enough, I'd invest in an electric impact gun and ratchet. Sure has made my work go a lot faster. My Milwaukee impact 2763-22 gun has 700 foot punds torque, and the ratchet about 185-200lbs. Of course I manually break all bolts and nuts with a breaker bar when using the impact ratchet. The gun has no problem breaking stuff free. Both tools regulate the force, once the bolt or nut is loosened. They are a big help.
LOL I just bought an electric impact a few months ago from harbor freight. Haven't even had a chance to try it out yet. With that said I typically do all my work with wrenches and tools that most home mechanics will have at home. That way they can see how I do it if they have to use the same tools. Anyways nice chatten with ya, gotta to eat dinner. Keith
01 dodge caravan jist changed spark plugs wires & coils and I still feel a vibration in idling and even in park , do you think it could be an engine mount ? I feel the vibration in the chair a lot and near the cup holders.
Time to put a scanner on it and check for codes. There's a lot of things that can cause that. A bad injector, a bad spark plug wire, a bad O2 Sensor, a clogged Idle Air Inlet Valve on the Throttle Body, a dirty Mass Air Pressure sensor on the air inlet. Get a scanner and look at it. If you don't have one drive to the auto parts store and get one, or have them clear your codes, then drive it for about five miles on the freeway and bring it back, then have them check the codes that popped up again. Then you can look up what causes those codes and fix it. Hope that points you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya scanner comes up 02 sensor if it was a newer vehicle I’d understand but this a 2001 not to sure if a 02 sensor would cause heavy vibration…but maybe I’m wrong. it’s mainly a vibration in idling it’s pretty strong the passenger side seat shakes
@@Xavie905 I had a 99 Caravan that had a bad one and it did it, as well as a 95 Pathfinder that did it to. We changed them and the problem went away. There May be two O2 sensors so maker sure you get the right one, upper or lower or no 1 or no 2. If it's the upper/no 1 you'll need to pull the Windshield wiper assembly to get to it. Thankfully I have a video on how to pull the wiper assembly it's about a 15 minute job to remove it, here a link; ruclips.net/video/9EkRCoOTFkE/видео.html Sorry I don't have one on pulling the o2 sensor. When the o2 sensors have been in there for a long time they don't want to come out. You'll need to run the engine for about 5 minutes so the Exhaust Manifold with expand to make it easier to get out. Just have everything read to put on the o2 sensor. You might want to wear some leather gloves and a long sleeve shirt, it will be hot on the engine and behind it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey do u have to jack the engine up? Ive seen other videos that didnt just wondering? The one video i saw had the van on car ramps that it is this the wrong way to do this?
What ever way I did it, it worked great. I've been working on vehicles since the 70's. One thing I know over all those years, is that almost no mechanic will do the same job the same way. It should be noted that when the maintenance manual was written, there may be five ways to do the job, but they have to pick one to put in the book. Hope the video was helpful in a few ways for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Ya I used your method before this is the 3rd van I have done this twice already just wondering if it's possible to pull the bolt through the rubber bushing out with out jacking up the van it doesn't seem safe in my opinion your way seems the right way thanks for your response
For sure, the Rear Transmission Mount is the worst one. You need to removed part of the Emission System and be a contortionist to get some of the bolts in and out. If you do that mount some of the mount don't come with hole drilled and tap for the bolt that hold the mount shield. So you may have to drill and tap the hole. Glad the video helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Darrin, it was just a quicky. I have some more Caravan Videos here: ruclips.net/p/PLVLXGvrQp0OsNcwRxmtCkZaF5cjnffAdW Thanks for watching Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Keith, I need to change my lower control arms. Where is the best spot to support it? Can I use the bushing mount you showed at 53 seconds in front of the control arm to support the van and do one side at a time? I know I can raise the van with the front motor mount, if I do that, where would be the best place to put some jack stands knowing the bottom skid plate needs to come off to take out the control arms? Thanks,
You can put it on the main box frame just behind the bolts I showed you in this video. You can see it in one of my other videos here: ruclips.net/video/iSnDdevDV60/видео.html go to time index 8:27 in that video and I show you another place you can put it. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
On my town&country the bracket that holds the transmission mount came lose for some reason all bolts were lose, one of the holes for one of the bolts broke on the side and lost that bolt i had to get a new bracket the mount looked ok!.
Yeah they can come loose. There are three mounts that hold the transmission. 1. Rear just behind Exhaust Pipe and below the fire wall. 2. Drivers side, between the transmission and the drivers wheel just below the battery. 3. The front Transmission and Engine below the radiator on the frame. - There is a fourth mount but it doesn't hold the transmission, it holds the engine on the passenger side under the Air Inlet Tube going to the Throttle Body. Out of curiosity which one of yours came loose? Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Hey John I just looked in the book and I can't find them either. I would just tighten them down to 30-40 ft-lbs until you can figure it out. Try asking the dealer or the forums. I just tightened mine up real good and I haven't had any problems yet. Make sure and put some anti-seize on the threads so they don't rust into place. I'd check them later to make sure they remain tight. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks for watching and Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
30 or 40 ft-lbs isn't nearly enough for something as critical as supporting an engine. It's more like 70 to 90. My civic si 05's engine and transmission mounts say 80 ft-lbs of torque.
Bro you want to use loctite not grease. The mounts deal with large amounts of vibrations hence the mount. If not your bolts could come lose and fuck your van up.
Been on the van since may of 2016 4 1/2 years and it's still tight. I should have used anti-seize instead of grease, I would skip the lock tight it would just make it harder to pull the bolt next time it has to come out on these high maintenance vans. That area is actually low vibration due to the rubber isolating it from the cross bolt. Now it it was a solid metal on metal mount I would agree with you. Seriously I had to work on this van every weekend to fix something that broke. I finally got tired of working on it and sold it to someone I know who really needed it and didn't mind working on it. Anyways Cool channel you have there. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I haven"t done a timing belt on mine yet so I can't help you there. I would do a search on YT and one should show up. Thanks for watching. Also don't forget there are shop manuals for these on eBay for around $20.00 bucks. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I have a 2003 AWD and the dealer told me all of the mounts are bad, but I'm starting with this one because I have a clunk that showed up after I did struts and strut plates and this mount's rubber is all worn/gone.They couldn't find any other reason for the clunk. Any differences with AWD vs. FWD? Also, should I go ahead and do the other one that's up front? And the part you got is just as good as the one the mechanic quoted me 137.95 for and called a Motor Mount, Hydraulic Type front? Thanks!
This is the easiest one to do. Then the engine mount on the passenger side under the air intake, you need a jack for that one. Here's the video link for that one: ruclips.net/video/WRqxQ8gt4QQ/видео.html. The driver Transmission Mount behind the drivers Wheel isn't so bad. You have to jack up the transmission slightly to hold it while you remove some of the bolts, but it's not to bad. The one I would pay someone to do is the back Transmission mount, it's extremely difficult to do. Also don't forget the lower controls arms, both of mine were bad and the drag links as well. My van is a 2002 with over 200,000 miles on it. Feel free to ask any questions. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Being AWD doesn't make this one or the one under my air intake any harder to do? The one behind plate definitely looks ratty, could it be causing the clunk I have? It's easy to replace so I thought I would start there.
My van is just a 2wd. So I'm not to sure about that. I don't think it being AWD would make a difference on the Passenger Engine or the Drivers Transmission mount. However the rear transmission mount might be as I think the shaft might come out really close to the mount to go to the rear wheels. Unfortunately I don't have the video to do the Drivers side mount but there are a few on line that show you how to do it. It's basically four bolts on the side of the transmission and a pin bolt through a hole behind the drivers wheel. You may have to remove the battery and box to get to the top frame mounting bracket to loosen it. If I remember I'll try to look it up for you tonight when I go home in my favorites. I have some video of me doing mine, but it's not edited yet and I have a ton of crap to do on my sons Cadillac CTS. I'm welding the Drivers Quarter Panel on after I set up the new welder that just arrived today. I guess I could also look in the Haynes service manual for you tonight and see if it's in there. By the way do you have a manual for it, and are you familiar with changing motor mounts or automotive mechanic work? PS nice doggy! Keith Noneya
Ok here's the video on the Left or Drivers Transmission mount. It's by Chrys A. Learn N Save. ruclips.net/video/qTpHRrb2EXw/видео.html I don't always agree with him, but automotive mechanics are like carpenters, there's always another way to do the job. He has some good Caravan Videos and have used him to do some of my repairs as we have the same van. I've been doing my own and some of my friends automotive repairs for over 30 years. My dad was a mechanic and used to make me go work on cars with him in the garage on weekends. Said someday i'd thank him for teaching me, I do. I looked in the manual but it doesn't have the AWD section in it, also the manual only covers up to 2002 and your's is a 2003. I would just go buy the manual and see what it says. Hope this helps, and again as always you can ask as many questions as you need to. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I found a nice priced OEM motor mount and replacing it seems to have fixed the clunk! I may have the one on top by air filter done as well at some point.
Sorry I don't have one for the EM-2927. The Rear Transmission Mount is EXTREMELY hard to change. If there is any mount on this vehicle I would pay someone to do, it's that one. That rear mount requires extreme dexterity and extreme patients as well as the removal of some of the emissions items on the bottom of the van. There are a few channels that have those videos on line and discuss and show how to do them. Just do a search for " Caravan Rear Transmission Mount". - One Rear Transmission Mount video can be found here: ruclips.net/video/S8d2FvFQCf0/видео.html on YouFix N Save_Garage RUclips Channel. A word of caution, I would use Jack Stands instead of that flimsy Screw Jack he used. Never crawl under a car without the proper support of jack stands. Hydraulic Jacks and Screw Jacks are NOT proper support. Your life is worth far more to you, your family & friends than any vehicle. Also in his video to mount the shield he had to Tap the hole as the replacement didn't have threads in the hole, I had to tap the hole when I did mine as well. Sorry I don't remember tap size. Hope that helps you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey Bruce you're back from the dead, Cool, LOVE your movies. I can't wait for you to make another one. Just don't appear on the Walking Dead they tend to shoot you in the head. LOL I put grease in the rusty hole because it helps the bolt go in better and it helps keep water out. I agree that Blue thread locker probably would have been better but I didn't have any at the time so Grease it is. Thanks for watching Bruce. Hope to see some of your own videos up on your channel soon. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Those headlights look absolutely fuckin amazing which is extremely rare on these vans lol
LOL, used water, 600 grit sand paper then some of the Nu-Finish Car Polish in the orange bottle. I put some on a T-Shirt and rubbed it like heck. It worked great. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good video! Great job showing the lifting points and jackstand locations. I was also surprised at where you put your floor jack and 2x4 to support the engine/transmission. Every other video I've watched has put the support under the oil pan of the engine. You put the support under the bracket for the engine mount itself! That's exactly where it should be! Thanks!
i would never use oil pan to hold the weight of the engine.
You are a very good auto mechanic I call these videos online schooling .I hope you still have your van I have a 2002 since 2012 still crazy about it.
OH thanks Mr. A Jay. No I bought a newer car, a 2014 Murano, so I sold it a few years ago to a friend who needed it more than I did. But I left the videos up so folks could use them to fix their vans. Glad to help anytime. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for your replying back.. Did not see any vids on the rear tranny mount..the other videos guys put up had bad quality with no detail.. I ask is the rear difficult to change? What state do you do these vids from. I forgot to bigg up your camera person and the young mechanic trainer he will need it as I try to expose him early 18yo.
I
Yes it's very difficult to change, this is one I personally would hire someone to do, unless you just can't afford it. There are some pretty bad videos on that mount, but if you watch several of them you'll get the idea when you crawl under there to do the job. Read my replay to Dayne B. just below that I posted yesterday. Let me know if I can help you in any other way. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
You did a great video bro. No bullshit and right to the point.
Thanks Warren, I appreciate the appreciation, LOL
Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much for this!
You're welcome FS. Glad it helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for posting the video. Easy change out and everything went as you said. Thanks!!!
Hey thanks Abraham. These vans are getting old and start to require a LOT of maintenance to keep them running. Regarding the engine and transmission mounts please read my responses to Heather Minnich below. The is some good information I gave here that you should keep in mind for the future of these mounts. Thanks for watching Norm, and glad to help.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Ken thanks for the help on the other motor mount. Now i'm waiting on this part. Hope you have videos on the transmission mounts because those are next.
Hey Walter. The mount behind the drivers wheel isn't to bad. The one I would pay a transmission shop to do is the rear transmission mount unless you're a contortionist and like to cuss like a sailor, it's a real bear.
Here's a list of a few things you have to do: You have to remove some emission boxes and hoses under the car right under the drivers seat. Those emission hoses have some plastic clamps on them that you may have to replace. There is also a heat shield bolted the top of the mount with a 10mm bolt. The new mounts sometimes don't come with the hole tapped out so you may have to do that like I did. If you don't have a set of reversible ratchet combination wrenches this is a good excuse to get a set. Get the DeWalt 10pc Metric Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set # DWMT72168 or for SAE get the # DWMT72169 set. They are really nice and if you wait for a deal you can get a set off ebay for around $50 bucks. If you don't want to wait you'll pay $65 bucks and up. I've been really busy working on my sons 2003 CTS so I haven't had time to edit those videos yet, and it's not looking like it coming anytime soon, sorry bro.
Hope this give you a little info that can help. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Thank you for the video. Do the mount bolts need to be torqued? If they do what is the torque spec.?
More than likely they do, but I didn't I just snugged them up good and used Blue Locktite on them.
I would suggest, if you do these type of jobs often enough, I'd invest in an electric impact gun and ratchet. Sure has made my work go a lot faster. My Milwaukee impact 2763-22 gun has 700 foot punds torque, and the ratchet about 185-200lbs. Of course I manually break all bolts and nuts with a breaker bar when using the impact ratchet. The gun has no problem breaking stuff free. Both tools regulate the force, once the bolt or nut is loosened. They are a big help.
LOL I just bought an electric impact a few months ago from harbor freight. Haven't even had a chance to try it out yet. With that said I typically do all my work with wrenches and tools that most home mechanics will have at home. That way they can see how I do it if they have to use the same tools. Anyways nice chatten with ya, gotta to eat dinner. Keith
Thank you so much! Your video helps a lot! Warm Regards,
Thanks for the thanks, glad it helped you.
Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
01 dodge caravan jist changed spark plugs wires & coils and I still feel a vibration in idling and even in park , do you think it could be an engine mount ? I feel the vibration in the chair a lot and near the cup holders.
Time to put a scanner on it and check for codes. There's a lot of things that can cause that. A bad injector, a bad spark plug wire, a bad O2 Sensor, a clogged Idle Air Inlet Valve on the Throttle Body, a dirty Mass Air Pressure sensor on the air inlet. Get a scanner and look at it. If you don't have one drive to the auto parts store and get one, or have them clear your codes, then drive it for about five miles on the freeway and bring it back, then have them check the codes that popped up again. Then you can look up what causes those codes and fix it. Hope that points you in the right direction. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya scanner comes up 02 sensor if it was a newer vehicle I’d understand but this a 2001 not to sure if a 02 sensor would cause heavy vibration…but maybe I’m wrong. it’s mainly a vibration in idling it’s pretty strong the passenger side seat shakes
@@Xavie905 I had a 99 Caravan that had a bad one and it did it, as well as a 95 Pathfinder that did it to. We changed them and the problem went away. There May be two O2 sensors so maker sure you get the right one, upper or lower or no 1 or no 2. If it's the upper/no 1 you'll need to pull the Windshield wiper assembly to get to it. Thankfully I have a video on how to pull the wiper assembly it's about a 15 minute job to remove it, here a link; ruclips.net/video/9EkRCoOTFkE/видео.html Sorry I don't have one on pulling the o2 sensor. When the o2 sensors have been in there for a long time they don't want to come out. You'll need to run the engine for about 5 minutes so the Exhaust Manifold with expand to make it easier to get out. Just have everything read to put on the o2 sensor. You might want to wear some leather gloves and a long sleeve shirt, it will be hot on the engine and behind it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey do u have to jack the engine up? Ive seen other videos that didnt just wondering? The one video i saw had the van on car ramps that it is this the wrong way to do this?
What ever way I did it, it worked great. I've been working on vehicles since the 70's. One thing I know over all those years, is that almost no mechanic will do the same job the same way. It should be noted that when the maintenance manual was written, there may be five ways to do the job, but they have to pick one to put in the book. Hope the video was helpful in a few ways for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Ya I used your method before this is the 3rd van I have done this twice already just wondering if it's possible to pull the bolt through the rubber bushing out with out jacking up the van it doesn't seem safe in my opinion your way seems the right way thanks for your response
pretty simple job did mine in 20 minutes it's the others that are ticky.
For sure, the Rear Transmission Mount is the worst one. You need to removed part of the Emission System and be a contortionist to get some of the bolts in and out. If you do that mount some of the mount don't come with hole drilled and tap for the bolt that hold the mount shield. So you may have to drill and tap the hole. Glad the video helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
good job young man
Thanks Darrin, it was just a quicky. I have some more Caravan Videos here:
ruclips.net/p/PLVLXGvrQp0OsNcwRxmtCkZaF5cjnffAdW
Thanks for watching Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Keith, I need to change my lower control arms. Where is the best spot to support it? Can I use the bushing mount you showed at 53 seconds in front of the control arm to support the van and do one side at a time? I know I can raise the van with the front motor mount, if I do that, where would be the best place to put some jack stands knowing the bottom skid plate needs to come off to take out the control arms? Thanks,
You can put it on the main box frame just behind the bolts I showed you in this video. You can see it in one of my other videos here: ruclips.net/video/iSnDdevDV60/видео.html go to time index 8:27 in that video and I show you another place you can put it. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Good job! very informative.
Thanks Mind Beauty. Glad you liked it. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
On my town&country the bracket that holds the transmission mount came lose for some reason all bolts were lose, one of the holes for one of the bolts broke on the side and lost that bolt i had to get a new bracket the mount looked ok!.
Yeah they can come loose. There are three mounts that hold the transmission.
1. Rear just behind Exhaust Pipe and below the fire wall.
2. Drivers side, between the transmission and the drivers wheel just below the battery.
3. The front Transmission and Engine below the radiator on the frame.
- There is a fourth mount but it doesn't hold the transmission, it holds the engine on the passenger side under the Air Inlet Tube going to the Throttle Body. Out of curiosity which one of yours came loose?
Thanks for watching.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
What are the torque specs for the front mount bolts? I can't seem to find them anywhere.
Hey John I just looked in the book and I can't find them either. I would just tighten them down to 30-40 ft-lbs until you can figure it out. Try asking the dealer or the forums. I just tightened mine up real good and I haven't had any problems yet. Make sure and put some anti-seize on the threads so they don't rust into place. I'd check them later to make sure they remain tight. Sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks for watching and Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks. God bless.
30 or 40 ft-lbs isn't nearly enough for something as critical as supporting an engine. It's more like 70 to 90. My civic si 05's engine and transmission mounts say 80 ft-lbs of torque.
I know the through bolt is 105 nm
Bro you want to use loctite not grease. The mounts deal with large amounts of vibrations hence the mount. If not your bolts could come lose and fuck your van up.
Been on the van since may of 2016 4 1/2 years and it's still tight. I should have used anti-seize instead of grease, I would skip the lock tight it would just make it harder to pull the bolt next time it has to come out on these high maintenance vans. That area is actually low vibration due to the rubber isolating it from the cross bolt. Now it it was a solid metal on metal mount I would agree with you. Seriously I had to work on this van every weekend to fix something that broke. I finally got tired of working on it and sold it to someone I know who really needed it and didn't mind working on it. Anyways Cool channel you have there. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
how do you put back a 2001 Dodge Caravan after you just the timing to putit back together
I haven"t done a timing belt on mine yet so I can't help you there. I would do a search on YT and one should show up. Thanks for watching. Also don't forget there are shop manuals for these on eBay for around $20.00 bucks.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I have a 2003 AWD and the dealer told me all of the mounts are bad, but I'm starting with this one because I have a clunk that showed up after I did struts and strut plates and this mount's rubber is all worn/gone.They couldn't find any other reason for the clunk. Any differences with AWD vs. FWD? Also, should I go ahead and do the other one that's up front? And the part you got is just as good as the one the mechanic quoted me 137.95 for and called a Motor Mount, Hydraulic Type front? Thanks!
This is the easiest one to do. Then the engine mount on the passenger side under the air intake, you need a jack for that one. Here's the video link for that one: ruclips.net/video/WRqxQ8gt4QQ/видео.html. The driver Transmission Mount behind the drivers Wheel isn't so bad. You have to jack up the transmission slightly to hold it while you remove some of the bolts, but it's not to bad. The one I would pay someone to do is the back Transmission mount, it's extremely difficult to do.
Also don't forget the lower controls arms, both of mine were bad and the drag links as well. My van is a 2002 with over 200,000 miles on it. Feel free to ask any questions. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Being AWD doesn't make this one or the one under my air intake any harder to do? The one behind plate definitely looks ratty, could it be causing the clunk I have? It's easy to replace so I thought I would start there.
My van is just a 2wd. So I'm not to sure about that. I don't think it being AWD would make a difference on the Passenger Engine or the Drivers Transmission mount. However the rear transmission mount might be as I think the shaft might come out really close to the mount to go to the rear wheels. Unfortunately I don't have the video to do the Drivers side mount but there are a few on line that show you how to do it. It's basically four bolts on the side of the transmission and a pin bolt through a hole behind the drivers wheel. You may have to remove the battery and box to get to the top frame mounting bracket to loosen it. If I remember I'll try to look it up for you tonight when I go home in my favorites. I have some video of me doing mine, but it's not edited yet and I have a ton of crap to do on my sons Cadillac CTS. I'm welding the Drivers Quarter Panel on after I set up the new welder that just arrived today. I guess I could also look in the Haynes service manual for you tonight and see if it's in there. By the way do you have a manual for it, and are you familiar with changing motor mounts or automotive mechanic work? PS nice doggy! Keith Noneya
Ok here's the video on the Left or Drivers Transmission mount. It's by Chrys A. Learn N Save. ruclips.net/video/qTpHRrb2EXw/видео.html I don't always agree with him, but automotive mechanics are like carpenters, there's always another way to do the job. He has some good Caravan Videos and have used him to do some of my repairs as we have the same van. I've been doing my own and some of my friends automotive repairs for over 30 years. My dad was a mechanic and used to make me go work on cars with him in the garage on weekends. Said someday i'd thank him for teaching me, I do. I looked in the manual but it doesn't have the AWD section in it, also the manual only covers up to 2002 and your's is a 2003. I would just go buy the manual and see what it says. Hope this helps, and again as always you can ask as many questions as you need to. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I found a nice priced OEM motor mount and replacing it seems to have fixed the clunk! I may have the one on top by air filter done as well at some point.
Does anyone know how to gain access to and locate 2927?
Sorry I don't have one for the EM-2927. The Rear Transmission Mount is EXTREMELY hard to change. If there is any mount on this vehicle I would pay someone to do, it's that one. That rear mount requires extreme dexterity and extreme patients as well as the removal of some of the emissions items on the bottom of the van.
There are a few channels that have those videos on line and discuss and show how to do them. Just do a search for " Caravan Rear Transmission Mount".
- One Rear Transmission Mount video can be found here: ruclips.net/video/S8d2FvFQCf0/видео.html on YouFix N Save_Garage RUclips Channel. A word of caution, I would use Jack Stands instead of that flimsy Screw Jack he used. Never crawl under a car without the proper support of jack stands. Hydraulic Jacks and Screw Jacks are NOT proper support. Your life is worth far more to you, your family & friends than any vehicle.
Also in his video to mount the shield he had to Tap the hole as the replacement didn't have threads in the hole, I had to tap the hole when I did mine as well. Sorry I don't remember tap size. Hope that helps you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
why did you put gress in the rusty hole might be locker be fine
Hey Bruce you're back from the dead, Cool, LOVE your movies. I can't wait for you to make another one. Just don't appear on the Walking Dead they tend to shoot you in the head. LOL
I put grease in the rusty hole because it helps the bolt go in better and it helps keep water out. I agree that Blue thread locker probably would have been better but I didn't have any at the time so Grease it is. Thanks for watching Bruce. Hope to see some of your own videos up on your channel soon.
Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
@@keithnoneya I'd do the same.
I hurt myself I am suing you.
LOL Thanks for the great comment. Unfortunately some folks wont' get it. Thanks for watching Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
No time to change so I paid my mechanic to do this easy one. It’s a bitch when you don’t have the time to do these easy ones. 😒