This is one of the best videos I came across on RUclips of a female, fixing her own car in a male standing by for a little bit of guidance you are amazing. God bless.
You DO NOT NEED to remove the engine mount bracket arm. This WILL save you tone of screwing and getting under your van. You unscrew the two bolts holding the engine mount then the one in the engine mount you unscrew, and with scissors jack you lift the engine like 1 - 2 inches until the bolt is loose. the engine moount WILL COME OUT pulling forward and turning it to the drivers side ( maybe the other side too but I have not tried it). It is very tight coming out but it will come out very easily. There was about 1inch and 1/4 in height difference between my old mount and new mount. The rubber may not be cracked but it is no longer supporting the weight of the engine. The whole job takes 5 min the most. I hope this helps. Good Luck.
Thank you again ty. I used your video to change my 2nd set. The ones i bought a year ago off ebay for 74 dollars full set failed so I had to replace again. I appreceate you documenting and leaving this up for those who need to change these mounts.
I just changed mine on my '08 Town & Country. Real easy, took about 20 minutes. I didn't have to remove the cross member bolt, I just giggled the mount and raised the engine. Nice and easy. Thanks for the video.
Thats probably because you dont have the 3.6 Engine in your 2008. Your engine might allow you to do that in that year engine. You have. 3 3 ? 3.8 ? Or 4.0
Wow, you gave me the confidence to try something I was afraid to do. Thanks to your video everything went smoothly and I saved a few hundred bucks. You're awesome!
I just replaced the front engine mount on my 2014 T & C and did so without removing the cross member....there is enough room up there to wiggle it out and put it back in the same way
Wow, I admire you for working on your own vehicle, Ty Rouse, I've been working on my own vehicles (many of them) for over 25 years, and have replace engine mounts before, but still wanted to watch a couple of videos on how to replace the rear and front engine mounts on my Town and Country. I don't think it's going to be that hard though, I'll get back to you and let you know how it went. I'd better get going now if I want anything done!
Er...er...I'll get back to you on that one! LOL! But seriously, I had underestimated the difficulty of replacing the rear one, meaning how little room there is to access it and so on, so I had to abort the project as I had started too late not realizing it would take a while to finish the work, definitely longer than I thought, not to mention I have to drive to a friend's house to work on my vehicle since working on cars in my apartment complex parking lot is prohibited; so, I postponed it until next Sunday. Indeed, the front one looks very easy to replace, but upon further inspection, I actually don't need to replace it. Have a good night.
@@DEEJAY7950 I agree... I FINALLY got to replace 3 of them, but still not the rear one as it once again gave me a hard time because of ONE single bolt I simply couldn't get to, or if I remember correctly I had managed to put a wrench on it but didn't have enough strength to crack it loose, that's when I realized I would have to remove the bracket as I had seen others do on other videos, but by that time, it was getting late... I had also wasted time with the transmission mounts because the lack of room made the two side bolts so hard to put back on! Aaargh! And I haven't got back to it yet since I've been very busy working on my 2015 Ford Transit 250 cargo van, and I can work on my vehicles only on Sundays.
I replaced mine without removing the cross member. I slid it out to the right but had to slid it in from the left, probably because the new unit was not as forgiving due to intact rubber. The engine needs to be raised to get the long bolt aligned.
Thank, Thank, Thank you so much. Your videos helped alot. I miss the 80's and 90's when you could purchase the actual SHOP MANUAL from the dealer. I worked on all my cars with those books.
Michael Demarisjr - i am so happy i could help!! I know what you mean about the manuals. Even with the chilton subscription, I still feel like something is missing. Old school manuals were the best.
Super helpful thank you ! I was able to get the mount out without taking out the cross member and just a heads up never want to use the drill to force a screw in can strip it out but this is amazing your page is helpful !
Hinad Samhan the Routan is basically a Dodge Grand Caravan/Chrysler T&C. Daimler had a partnership with VW at one time. Best minivans on the market. And Less than the Asian Cousins. (Honda/Toyota/Kia)
She's a keeper,bud.And I never realized females talk like men working on a vehicle.Awesome now I know 😄. I've been teaching my 14 year old daughter how to install a/c units, trouble shooting electrical as well as, plumbing, vehicle maintenance, she says I work to much and then one day she said she wanted to come with me to work.First day we got a flat on 95.Then first service call was a a/c compressor replacement.She was so eager to learn.Funny thing is besides being a proud dad.And teaching her life's battles, she makes fun of her mom now cause she doesn't know how to change a tire or even boil water 👍😂.Thats a silver spoon issue..I'm guessing you had a good man or strong mom to let you know that it doesn't matter man or woman you put your mind to it and stay persistent you can accomplish life's battles.Keep the wind at your back 👍👍👍
Great video series, thx for sharing. Just did the front mount of my '13 Touring-L. Most "L's" have a trailer hitch and the heated steering wheel. Note, if you can take the mount out without removing the crossmember, as many state in the comments, do so. That front bolt is a bitch to take out and is captured in the lower part of the front frame. The bolt corroded at the top as water seems to collect in the hole. If that bolt snaps, you are having a bad day. Ask me how I know! A replacement bolt is $65 and I was only able to find it at a dealer (May 2022).
Thank you very much for the help. I am getting ready to do the mounts on a 2012 Dodge Avenger. And I just wasn't sure how to go about it because there is almost no info on Avengers.
I just replaced mine and all I did is remove the 2 bottom bolts16mm and bolt15mm and slid it upward and rotated it out.but was your 15mm not shaft seemed thin and the mount hole looked bigger than the bolt?
Hi Ty that is a great video ! I love the way you explain step by step 👍🏻 I have a question for you, can you please tell me how much you paid for the suscripción and how long it last thank you for your help God bless you
Nice work ! ❤it that’s a real women there ! Well done . Always support the engine like u did before removing bolts. That looked like the oil pan or transmission pan .
Hi great video I am surprised that if a woman can change a motor mount I can too right!! I have a questio hope you can answer me did you have to lift the transmission with the floor jack or not? Thank you god bless you.
MDBCari92 Sgo - Hi! No lifting, just supporting. Although after I put in the new part, I have had to play with it a little bit. So ideally no, but sometimes you’ll need a little wiggle room. Also, if you know someone who is a mechanic, try to pick their brain a lil bit. These videos are of me learning and trying it out for the first time.
this is what you ONLY take off when you take out the starter. disregard the other parts they tell you to take off 😉 the bolt holding electrical I suggest a swivel wrench. push towards passenger side n tilt up and bring it down oh there is clip be sure to be careful not to brake it unclip carefully
I can’t really remember. It might have been around 125k miles. Which I thought was odd because my old T&C 2000 had over 250k miles and I never heard of a motor mount. (Dont ask me how I thought the motor was mounted before 😬).
Nathan Boothman I noticed that when I accelerate it too hard then I would get a deep rattling noise. And it got worse as all four mounts started to go out. You will definitely feel it in the driver seat. So for me it was normally on initial acceleration but not so much on a long constant Drive, like cruise speed.
Carlos Cantu - I had a subscription to Chiltondiy.com. I don’t know how to get you a pdf. I would check them out, I like the website, just wish they would let you stay logged in longer. You can print out pages if you need as well. Its a pretty nice setup.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice job my wife and are proud to see a lady out here doing this stuff even with hubby's help you still did it good job
This is one of the best videos I came across on RUclips of a female, fixing her own car in a male standing by for a little bit of guidance you are amazing. God bless.
You DO NOT NEED to remove the engine mount bracket arm. This WILL save you tone of screwing and getting under your van. You unscrew the two bolts holding the engine mount then the one in the engine mount you unscrew, and with scissors jack you lift the engine like 1 - 2 inches until the bolt is loose. the engine moount WILL COME OUT pulling forward and turning it to the drivers side ( maybe the other side too but I have not tried it). It is very tight coming out but it will come out very easily. There was about 1inch and 1/4 in height difference between my old mount and new mount. The rubber may not be cracked but it is no longer supporting the weight of the engine. The whole job takes 5 min the most. I hope this helps. Good Luck.
Thank you again ty. I used your video to change my 2nd set. The ones i bought a year ago off ebay for 74 dollars full set failed so I had to replace again. I appreceate you documenting and leaving this up for those who need to change these mounts.
I just changed mine on my '08 Town & Country. Real easy, took about 20 minutes. I didn't have to remove the cross member bolt, I just giggled the mount and raised the engine. Nice and easy. Thanks for the video.
Thats probably because you dont have the 3.6 Engine in your 2008.
Your engine might allow you to do that in that year engine.
You have. 3 3 ? 3.8 ? Or 4.0
"Cause it's a long ass fucking bolt" LOL Love it! Thank you for the help.
Wow, you gave me the confidence to try something I was afraid to do. Thanks to your video everything went smoothly and I saved a few hundred bucks. You're awesome!
This is what us Chrysler owners gotta do- take care of our own shit. Got quoted $1200 dollars for the dealer to do this.
I just replaced the front engine mount on my 2014 T & C and did so without removing the cross member....there is enough room up there to wiggle it out and put it back in the same way
How do you know which one to replace? When I back out of the driveway the engine rocks. Then it vibrates at high speeds.
Good Video. I like you idea to use the moving blankets to lay on. I have had 3 new for a couple years, now they will get used finally.
This may be the first car repair video I've seen with almost an appropriate amount of cussing. I'm sure some more cussing was done off camera.
Wow, I admire you for working on your own vehicle, Ty Rouse, I've been working on my own vehicles (many of them) for over 25 years, and have replace engine mounts before, but still wanted to watch a couple of videos on how to replace the rear and front engine mounts on my Town and Country. I don't think it's going to be that hard though, I'll get back to you and let you know how it went. I'd better get going now if I want anything done!
armoricain The front is pretty easy, hiwever...howd that rear one go?
Er...er...I'll get back to you on that one! LOL! But seriously, I had underestimated the difficulty of replacing the rear one, meaning how little room there is to access it and so on, so I had to abort the project as I had started too late not realizing it would take a while to finish the work, definitely longer than I thought, not to mention I have to drive to a friend's house to work on my vehicle since working on cars in my apartment complex parking lot is prohibited; so, I postponed it until next Sunday. Indeed, the front one looks very easy to replace, but upon further inspection, I actually don't need to replace it. Have a good night.
armoricain Lol, yea, that one was an all day project. Good luck!
@@armoricain Just a heads up, if you have a motor mount that is bad it's a good practice to replace them all as a set as soon as you can!
@@DEEJAY7950 I agree... I FINALLY got to replace 3 of them, but still not the rear one as it once again gave me a hard time because of ONE single bolt I simply couldn't get to, or if I remember correctly I had managed to put a wrench on it but didn't have enough strength to crack it loose, that's when I realized I would have to remove the bracket as I had seen others do on other videos, but by that time, it was getting late... I had also wasted time with the transmission mounts because the lack of room made the two side bolts so hard to put back on! Aaargh!
And I haven't got back to it yet since I've been very busy working on my 2015 Ford Transit 250 cargo van, and I can work on my vehicles only on Sundays.
I replaced mine without removing the cross member. I slid it out to the right but had to slid it in from the left, probably because the new unit was not as forgiving due to intact rubber. The engine needs to be raised to get the long bolt aligned.
Thank, Thank, Thank you so much. Your videos helped alot. I miss the 80's and 90's when you could purchase the actual SHOP MANUAL from the dealer. I worked on all my cars with those books.
Michael Demarisjr - i am so happy i could help!! I know what you mean about the manuals. Even with the chilton subscription, I still feel like something is missing. Old school manuals were the best.
What is the part number for the long ass bolt ?? Or name of it ?? Please help
Most auto parts store carry the books now !
Super helpful thank you ! I was able to get the mount out without taking out the cross member and just a heads up never want to use the drill to force a screw in can strip it out but this is amazing your page is helpful !
Nah that's just what we call some backwoods loctite lmao
the paint on the threads is a loctite. Only screw your boat one time into the hole and it will help lock the boat in place.
Thank you for all for all of your videos. I have a 2009 VW Routan and I just changed all 4 of my mounts in 8hrs because of your videos.
Michael Demarisjr is the Routan reliable?
Was it the same as this video? I have a 2010 Routan and want to change them as well.
Hinad Samhan the Routan is basically a Dodge Grand Caravan/Chrysler T&C. Daimler had a partnership with VW at one time. Best minivans on the market. And Less than the Asian Cousins. (Honda/Toyota/Kia)
She's a keeper,bud.And I never realized females talk like men working on a vehicle.Awesome now I know 😄. I've been teaching my 14 year old daughter how to install a/c units, trouble shooting electrical as well as, plumbing, vehicle maintenance, she says I work to much and then one day she said she wanted to come with me to work.First day we got a flat on 95.Then first service call was a a/c compressor replacement.She was so eager to learn.Funny thing is besides being a proud dad.And teaching her life's battles, she makes fun of her mom now cause she doesn't know how to change a tire or even boil water 👍😂.Thats a silver spoon issue..I'm guessing you had a good man or strong mom to let you know that it doesn't matter man or woman you put your mind to it and stay persistent you can accomplish life's battles.Keep the wind at your back 👍👍👍
Great video series, thx for sharing. Just did the front mount of my '13 Touring-L. Most "L's" have a trailer hitch and the heated steering wheel. Note, if you can take the mount out without removing the crossmember, as many state in the comments, do so. That front bolt is a bitch to take out and is captured in the lower part of the front frame. The bolt corroded at the top as water seems to collect in the hole. If that bolt snaps, you are having a bad day. Ask me how I know! A replacement bolt is $65 and I was only able to find it at a dealer (May 2022).
Great video, especially for showing the torque specs, thank you!
Thank you very much for the help. I am getting ready to do the mounts on a 2012 Dodge Avenger. And I just wasn't sure how to go about it because there is almost no info on Avengers.
The threads have loctite on them so they don't wiggle loose...
I just replaced mine and all I did is remove the 2 bottom bolts16mm and bolt15mm and slid it upward and rotated it out.but was your 15mm not shaft seemed thin and the mount hole looked bigger than the bolt?
Thanks for the torque specs. 👍
Very good video Can you share the pdf of the manual?
Is the long front bolt hold the cross member very difficult to un screw? Mine is loosening but requires a lot of "torque' to turn.
Thank you very much again
Hi Ty that is a great video ! I love the way you explain step by step 👍🏻
I have a question for you, can you please tell me how much you paid for the suscripción and how long it last thank you for your help God bless you
Ty, Just curious how the aftermarket mounts have held up after nearly 5years? I just ordered the Anchor ones for my 2012 T&C.
Nice work ! ❤it that’s a real women there ! Well done . Always support the engine like u did before removing bolts. That looked like the oil pan or transmission pan .
Thanks for the video its big help
Hi great video I am surprised that if a woman can change a motor mount I can too right!! I have a questio hope you can answer me did you have to lift the transmission with the floor jack or not? Thank you god bless you.
MDBCari92 Sgo - Hi! No lifting, just supporting. Although after I put in the new part, I have had to play with it a little bit.
So ideally no, but sometimes you’ll need a little wiggle room.
Also, if you know someone who is a mechanic, try to pick their brain a lil bit. These videos are of me learning and trying it out for the first time.
@@tyrouse4876 hi just want to let you know that i can change and do the job my self thanks to your video god bless you and have a wonderful day.
1:33 - No, the mounts fail prematurely. Had mine replaced with cheap aftermarket ones, they even failed after 5 months.
Look up using polyurethane to strengthen them.
If any one has said yet N-m is Newton meters the metric version.
this is what you ONLY take off when you take out the starter. disregard the other parts they tell you to take off 😉 the bolt holding electrical I suggest a swivel wrench. push towards passenger side n tilt up and bring it down oh there is clip be sure to be careful not to brake it unclip carefully
Good work!!
Which mount did you replace first? Does the sequence matter ?
Great vid! Girl after my own heart! That bolt to the member, what's it called/size?? Mine is smashed up from, dips. Lol. Thanks!
Isolator engine mount bolt
Where did you bought the online repair manual from?
Did you have to heat the front bolt ?
I been mechanic for 20 years
Thank you for the torque spec
how many miles did you have before the 2012 T&C mount failed?
I can’t really remember. It might have been around 125k miles. Which I thought was odd because my old T&C 2000 had over 250k miles and I never heard of a motor mount. (Dont ask me how I thought the motor was mounted before 😬).
you go girl!
Did it make any kind of noise for you to know it was the mount? Our van is making a clunk under acceleration and I can't pin point it.
Nathan Boothman I noticed that when I accelerate it too hard then I would get a deep rattling noise. And it got worse as all four mounts started to go out. You will definitely feel it in the driver seat. So for me it was normally on initial acceleration but not so much on a long constant Drive, like cruise speed.
Nice job..
Could you give me the guide PDF ???
Tahnk
Carlos Cantu - I had a subscription to Chiltondiy.com. I don’t know how to get you a pdf. I would check them out, I like the website, just wish they would let you stay logged in longer. You can print out pages if you need as well. Its a pretty nice setup.
Cant hear a word your saying
No problem here!
You're