5 years after this series was created I watched all 7 parts and I’m absolutely amazed at how in-depth and thorough this all is. I’ve learned so much! Thank you for sharing this!
Weekend DIY mechanic here...I was hooked on every moment in all 7 of these videos. I'm....embarrassed by how I've done u-joints in the past after watching this. I really appreciated the history and evolution of u-joints. Thank you for making this available.
Appreciate when things do not fall right into place, even when doing the task correctly. knowing how to adjust/correct the part is all part of being a mechanic. Real life instruction right here.
This is clearly the absolute proper method to remove/install Universal Joints. I have watched every " How to " video on RUclips and with a clear conscience, would feel guilty if I followed any video other than these! My interpretation is that if one uses any other method, its a roll of the dice! You may have no problem at all or end up going down a rabbit hole trying to figure out what went wrong.....I am grateful for this series! THANK YOU for the in depth data, facts, analysis, undeniable procedure!
Thanks very much for making this series. I had no idea how much technology there is to a driveshaft and u-joints and I'm humbled by my lack of knowledge. I'm working on my truck drive shaft at the moment and fortunately found and watched your series before I put it back together. Thanks again very much. John McClanahan, Atlanta
What a wonderful seven part series. I am in my sixties, but have never seen anything like your presentation. I now know how to replace U-joints. Well done. Very well done
wow I have just watched your video's on U/J checking & replacement.. and it's the best by far I have ever seen.. thank you John.. I only found your channel yesterday, so now am going to start from your first and watch them all.... love to see a true professional work..
I'm so glad I watched this entire series. After rewatching other people's videos on RUclips it's clear they don't know what the hell they're doing. One guy painted the ears on his yokes and then lubed them with transmission fluid before hammering his new ujoint into place. Thank you so much for taking this time to research everything and make this series to sharing it!
Thank you for all the info, seven part series on U-Joints how thorough very interesting. I appreciate all the effort you obviously go through to make these excellent training videos.
There is a serious lack of availability with snap rings in various thicknesses and the fact kits are only supplied with one size shows a SERIOUS PROBLEM with the industry. This is so bizarre that spicer are the only ones to supply several, and even at that they vary alot. whats needed is a vast assortment of .050" - .065" in .001" increments. This man John Kelley is worth his weight in gold, most people who claim to know alot about ujoints have never even heard of this stuff or what in the world axial play IS.
I’m fighting tooth and nail right now trying to find thinner retainer clips. Working on my ‘72 and replaced the ujoints. Using the .060” clips, i have zero play. I don’t have a thinner clip😑
@@WhipperSnapper51 i have come up with a system using a micrometer, grinder, and pencil eraser to shave them down. normally this would yield a shit result, but ive figured it out. i have a mega stash of snap rings in sandwich bags with sharpie. another way could be a machine called a surface grinder. i have enough video footage and notes in my journal at this point to write a book about this stuff. between watching his videos and making discoveries of my own with several shafts and sleepless nights ive realized stuff nobody else knows
Great video, I saw all 7 parts. It motivated me to do the work (driveshaft fix) in best shape. Regarding the centering of the shaft, u-joint and shaft cup holder, imagine yourself as a machinist and do the following: With dial indicator, 1) while the drive shaft removed, check the run-out of both transfer case and differential flange coaxially (mating surface) and diagonally (side way) 2) While rotating the drive shaft, measure the minimum reading of the dial indicator at the bearing cup outer surface (approximately at its center) for all of the four cups. This will give you an indication of how much the actual cross its self becoming off center from the real axes of the drive shaft. This can be complemented by using a micrometer to measure the thickness of the cup while the u-joint is disassembled. It is direct result from the assumption that the bearing surface (flat one in the cross) is a reference point and the cross has to form exactly a square shape otherwise the slow down and speed up movement will have variation on it. Also, this inspection will give you an idea about the flange yoke condition, if it bent, the variation between two facing cups become substantial. 3) from whatever runout we found across thee shaft, I think it can be reduced by playing with the different thickness snap ring to move the shaft across its axle (up, down, left or right) trying to compensated to whatever defect found in the drive shaft.
Top notch!! Thank you for all the preparation you have done for this series. The tools you show with part numbers, the vintage parts you acquired, the history lesson, fascinating! I did notice in this part 7 one small mistake. You mentioned that a 1330 series and a 1350 series has the same size cap and that they are just a different width. That is true for the 1310 to the 1330 series joints with a cap size of 1 1/16 and a compressed width of 3 7/32 for the 1310 and a 1 1/16 cap and 3 5/8 width for the 1330. The 1350 has a 1 3/16 cap and a 3 5/8 width.
Knowledge is a beautiful thing, so revealing. Thank you for your efforts making these videos. If I lived there I would seriously consider attending your school.
Thank you professor for your time devoted to this course. I learned so much knowledge watching your videos along with your incredible detail and patience. I always assumed one did bang on the joints for alignment, but now realize the delicate balance the universal joint performs, as it spins like a helicopter's rotor hub.
I've always thought of these subjects you talked about in your videos and this is one point the other is radial runout and lateral runout and from what I've seen these are the reasons why a lot of parts fail! great subject!
Mr. Kelley, the reason why you did not see an initial change in the axial play from copper to gray at the 6:00 mark is because they did not exert enough force on the end caps to overcome their friction fit in the bores, this is why it takes a press to get them in or out. the pink ones obviously did the job, however i am not certain if you had any difficulty getting them in the grooves, or if you did any pressing when the footage was cut and the camera was momentarily off. you should be able to theoretically take the snap rings out, without the axial play being altered due to said friction fit of the ujoint bores. if you had too much axial play and went with thinner snap rings, youd have too much clearance the moment you assemble one side and would have to shift the ujoint in its bore to center it and take up that gap as well using a press, and the amount of force you initially exert onto the ujoint beyond what is needed when it butts up against (and is stopped by) the snap ring is initially what should give you your baseline axial play.
When you replace the different snap rings to set axial play do you go back to the press and press the caps against the snap rings each time before checking with the gauge?
@@WeberAuto Was just going to ask that myself. I thought for a minute that was the reason the second set of rings yielded no difference. :) I wish I had seen this series before I did my driveshaft work. Now I have two cracked yokes and one bent one :) Oops
I just finished the whole series on u-joints and have learned so much. After seeing other video posters and knowing how I have done it in the past, I'm afraid to have anyone else touch my u-joints, now. I am highly trained and dangerous! Thank you, sir. My only concern now is finding the OTC Ford tool. I'm having no luck. Maybe, I can cut/build something from a piece of u-channel. Okay.....I found it in two places. I can either pay $159 or $224. Nope. That ain't hapn'n. Not for a one-time use.
Your best bet is to go on ebay and get what resembles the tiger tool which has forks that press downward, also a large ball joint press that has a relief hole for the ujoint cap as it is dual purpose, both those tools are needed because they do 2 different necessary things.
Thanks for this detailed series on U-joints. I just changed 2 U-joints on my 2000 Tundra and believe it or not I encountered the exact same problem. The Toyota new OEM non-greasable U-joint just didn't fit. It was a bit taller than the original part and the snap ring didn't fit. For me being the first timer using a Harbor freight ball joint tool I just scrached my head what I did wrong. In process while I was forcing the caps I broke on cap so I had to buy another one. Finally because I didn't have a thinner snap ring I went ahead and shaved down the copper coated snap ring until it did fit. I wished I saw this series before I tackled changing the U-joints on my double cardan drive shaft.
🤯 my mind is blown as he mentioned the measurements for aftermarket joints and snap ring thicknesses 🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃 the things that make you cry for all the driveline complaints and diagnoses....
EDIT: I found out that Spicer 5-1410X and 5-1410-1X kits come with 4 sets of selective snap rings, so this should fit the bill! Where can I get the colored snap ring sets? I had the driveshaft for my F-350 rebuilt at a local shop and it has a terrible vibration now. Took it back and they charged me $50 to tell me "nope, not a driveshaft vibration". I inspected each of the yokes and the center u-joint has 12 to 15 thou axial endplay, at least by my eyecrometer. I'll pull the shaft and do a full inspection. They replaced the center carrier too and didn't bother to replace the slinger or install the dust cap over the expose bearing! I'm not very happy with that shop, especially since they gave me the "you're crazy, get out of here" vibe. I'm so mad at myself for taking the "might as well have it serviced" approach when I took the shaft out. The original Spicer SPL209 joints were fine, just the center carrier rubber was deteriorated. I have purchased an OE replacement Dana carrier to replace the stuff they used. FWIW, all parts they used were Neapco, I'm very unimpressed with them at this time. Gonna have to do it all a second time, then have a conversation with the shop about getting my money back.
Great series. I learned a lot. Is it possible to trap an air bubble inside the bearing cap when putting it back on? If so, then I could see that causing problems with the snap rings being installed.
No, the caps are not free floating in the yoke ears, they are pressed in. An air bubble would be compressed or escape under those conditions. Thanks for your feedback!
I now relate the operation of universal joints to helicopter rotor hubs with blades attached, in that there is a static balance or run out which determines if everything is balanced. Then a dynamic balance is accomplished to trim the cord angle of the blades about the hub or universal joint. I never saw the relationship before, wow. If there is a vibration of any kind after replacement, it shows quickly, unlike a car where a higher speed might start the vib.
Thanks for this educational video! Very much in-depth & informative. After watching I decided to seek out a driveline shop and not just take my F150 to just any shop. My truck had a vibration and I did notice some axial play in the rear joint. SKF U-joints were recommended and shaft was also checked for balance, which was corrected. Vibration is gone, and I'm hoping that these U-joints are a quality brand. Do you know who makes the motorcraft joints for Ford?
Doing this now on a Mustang aluminum driveshaft and have 3 of the 4 clips installed but can’t get the last spring clip on the DS ear to seat, I cannot get the cap to sit any deeper and the needle bearings have not fell in the cap. Also they are not loosening up when I hit the edges of the flanges. Using Spicer 1330 U-joints
Hi John a brilliant and thoroughly researched series. Very informative, there was so much I didn't know! Just as a comment as to why repair shops may have lost the art of driveline repairs....so many manufacturers only use staked uni joints in their drivelines now a days. I know staking the unis is nothing new, but it is becoming more common. Why they (the manufacturers) do it I just don't know...is it cost, ease of production or something I haven't thought of??. Much more cost effective to get the expert from the driveline shop to restake new unis and balance the shaft. Less grey hairs and trouble for the shop I suspect.
Now I understand this thanks, one question I have is on some rear wheel drive cars I had there was some kind of vibration in the back of the car at 55/miles/h (speed) and engine braking only (let off gas pedal). I guess it is from drivetrain or final drive.
+g johan Thanks. Vibrations while using engine braking are usually caused by u-joint working angles becoming unequal because the pinion nose drops. See my video in u-joint working angles for more help. best wishes! ruclips.net/video/f1m-Fh5kiRU/видео.html
Good video sir. I just changed the u-joint a on my 1995 dodge ram 1500 3.9L 2wd and in looking to all the videos of the u-joints I did not do anything that you showed except for cleaning the joints and the groove were the lock goes is the first time that I hear of axial play on the joints usually what I do I change them and that is it now I am going crazy I will use them like this for the rest of the week and next Saturday I will check this and do the job and see if there is a noticeable vibration keep doing this type of videos and see you later
@@WeberAuto I'm here to learn. The other day I installed Spicer universal joints in mom's 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear driveshaft. They were the greasable type with the zerk on the cap. I cleaned the slight rust on the yoke with a small wire brush on a Dremel. Before installing anything I test fitted the snap rings. I had 3 copper, 3 green, 3 grey, and 1 odd one the accommodate the zerk. All 3 colors fit just fine. I searched and even called some tech at Spicer. All he said was the copper are the standard ones and those should be fine. Apparently the grey and green are thicker but I never got dimensions. I installed everything by using the copper (on a hunch). After everything was fully assembled everything felt slightly too tight. What was I supposed to do? The other options would have been tighter and more difficult to install if not impossible. I did find a video where someone file-fitted the snap rings to their liking. Is that ok? How would I know if it's tight due to the snap rings vs the yokes' own interference fit? I hope it'll wear into itself and center itself, but I'm afraid it'll fail prematurely. I intend to watch all 7 of your videos.... perhaps 1 per day. Could you point me towards which video would answer my concerns? And have you got any videos on correcting driveline angles? Thank you for reading this.
John, having watched this video. It seems to me that you are effectively centering the U joint between the snap ring grooves of the two opposing yoke ears - albeit with some axial play according to spec. That assumes that the snap ring grooves in each opposite ear are exactly the same distance from the axis of the drive shaft. Is that always the case? Assuming that the ear(s) aren't bent inward or outward.
That is a good question. I would suspect there is always a small amount of offset. Excessive offset can be checked by measuring the runout of the driveshaft while mounted in the vehicle after installing the u-joints. Thanks for your feedback!
very interesting sets of videos, very informative...id like to hear you about stacked u-joints with side compression caps especialy found on german cars...thanks very much.
what an awesome learning course. thanks for making these videos. it might be helpful if you have not to touch on the importance of replacing the ujoint straps. no one ever does when everyone should.
Thank you, I thought I mentioned the straps and bolts were not reusable in one of the videos in this series. I am going to make a video showing how much the straps stretch and form fit the u-joint caps upon initial installation.
You did, a couple times. Just yesterday I asked a transmission shop this question as a test to see if they know there stuff. They gave the wrong answer.
Very interesting. The Toyota book shows tapping the yokes (thick end). Is this to 'settle' the caps do you know? I honestly didn't know UJs were this in depth, like you say, would we treat other bearings the same? No!
+Toyota Tech Hi, yes, I have seen that part of the Toyota service information. It also shows using u-joint pulling tools that are no longer available for purchase; not very helpful. To Toyota's credit, they do show that checking axial play is needed and have given play specifications for years. I have looked at other manufacturer's service information for u-joint replacement and inspection, they look like they were written by a caveman with a hammer and chisel; no axial play is mentioned at all. Ford and GM are the only ones that show a u-joint removal tool that you can still purchase, but still no play or inspection. I have service manuals out of the 1950's that do a better job of describing how to change a u-joint than today's manuals. It seems like all the details have been slowly deleted over the years to a point where it is almost a lost art. That is why I decided I need to research this topic in great detail and try to restore proper methods, tools, and specifications to an industry that does not even know they are gone. Thanks for your feedback! No Hammers! ;)
+WeberAuto Well your research is very much appreciated. I think I have parts of the Toyota tool at work, if I can find the bridge part I think that could be used as you used the OTC tool. I'll route through the tool bins tomorrow.
John, Thank you for a super series; obviously a lot of very hard work and much dedication! I'm curious how much axial runout is normal between trunnion and bearing cap? Surely there must be some as you wouldn't want preload on needle bearings. Assuming there is some runout allowed, would this runout within horizontal trunnions/caps add to runout as you measure runout in the vertical?
It seems to me that measuring the snap rings between manufacturers should always go with a measure of the actual cross measure, I bet there different, also the spicer's thrust washers, I think, may allow for tighter axial play as its between metal and plastic as opposed to metal to metal. I've been a "shade tree mechanic" for many years, your videos have cured many bad practices for me, Thx much.
Thanks for your feedback One of my other u-joint videos actually shows the difference in the cross measurements from 7 different brands. It is quite revealing. see ruclips.net/video/BjPFzFkNmjE/видео.html
Great vid installed new u joint and have play in the trunnion of the U joint on both sides and its a moog I bought from auto zone BTW caps sit nice and tight in the pinion yoke and the Drive shaft
John, How do you know how much of that 0.00197" is between the vertical trunnions (thrust ends) and their respective thrust washers/end caps ,,,,,,,,, and how much is between the horizontal end caps horizontal needle bearings and horizontal trunnion circumference surface? The way you are measuring, might there be preload in the vertical cross pair, ,,,,,, and 0.00150" clearance within the horizontal end caps?
You are calling out 0.00197" axial endplay in the video, but the chapter marks are 0.0197" axial endplay, that's an order of magnitude difference. The figure 0.00197" is close to the approximation for 0.05mm, so is the actual spec 0.05mm axial endplay? Put another way, 20 thou is a heck of a window and feels like too much, so I must assume the lower limit and take the spec to be 0.05mm.
I am humbled after watching this. No wonder i ended up with a vibration. Mine are on a 92 s10 with the inner c clip style retainers. The kit only came with one set but after installing, they were way too tight. Not sure how to go about fixing this. Any advice? Are there thinner retainers available?
Wouldn’t placing the dial on the drive shaft rather than the center point increase movement due to angular differences? Since we’re being so precise in the first place, I figured you would want to be as accurate as possible? I.e. the angle at the point of origin is increased the further away you move from that point?
I have your app on my phone and i have corrected several things and my vibes have been reduced and now I am down to a T2 vibration. I looked at my front axle driveshaft and it appears to me that there is considerable side play or "movement in the universal. It seems like the caps should be tighter--and they are held with internal C clips on the inside of the yoke. Are there different thickness C Clips available to improve "centering" of the yoke like there are on the INTERNAL (or E-clips) that go on the outside? Thanks John
Excellent series and very well laid out. I really learned a lot. That being said, and no disrespect intended, how would one charge for the extra time this procedure takes? I know in my mind without a doubt this is the right way, however, I don't see how you can perform these procedures within allotted flat rate time. I guess you could try and educate the customers and charge a premium. I just don't think that most people will pay what the job is worth. Again, I am sincerely meaning no disrespect. You have truly opened my eyes.
Thank you! I understand the dilemma. I do not have an answer for you. Knowing the correct way to perform these services will help you to a better job even if you feel the need to take some shortcuts. It will also help you diagnose problems more accurately. Best wishes!
Hallo! I'm trying to overhaul the IRS of my Jaguar E-type 1969 4,2 FHC LHD I'm looking for any kit of snap rings/circlips with various thickness that can fit my u-joint but with less axial play possible? the snap ring delivered with the new u-joint is 1.7 mm , too thick! I've fit snap-ring 1,2 mm thickness but I measuring about 0.3/2=0.15 mm each side, too much! I need something around 1.4 (... 1.5 maybe) or something in between Where can I find this snap rings thanks for the help!
Good question. I found them in the Spicer "Small Parts Catalog" online. I do not know who the original supplier was for your car, but Spicer is a good place to start. Best wishes.
I don't know if you're common with Jags much, but this guy has something to worry about. The independent rear suspension of Jaguar design used U-jointed driveshafts not only in the purpose they sound, but they were also upper suspension arm (kind of upper wishbone). So this suspension design surely needs more attention than the others.
where would you find the spec if you want to check the play of the universal joint because i am going to build a drag car and i think this need to be done thanks
+265chevy Hi, That is a great question! It is hard to find a spec! Most of the service information I have access to seems to have been written by cavemen who don't even check play. l did find a specification in several locations though. 1. The Spicer Parts website media.spicerparts.com/media 2. The 2007-newer Toyota Tundra service manual for dirveshaft inspection (They use all Spicer parts). 3. A u-joint inspection procedure from Lexus for some staked-in u-joints they use. What I discovered is: The larger the u-joint, the larger the allowable play. Large Class 8 trucks (Semi Trucks) have 0.006" maximum play (from the spicer website). Light duty trucks (Class 1-3) like the F-150, Tundra, Silverado, Sierra have 0.002" maximum play (From Toyota's manuals). Small diameter driveshafts like the Lexus has have a maximum play of 0.001" (from Lexus' service information. I would use the 0.002" maximum for your drag car. Best wishes!
Everytime i get the u joint its fine and when i install the clips it wont move,, i banged the first ine with a hammer ( not the u joint or he shaft but the yoke) and it worked but now i cant get it to move, and ive banged and redone it,, any ideas
Very information I had no idea that there was that much to it I thought you just put them in and that was it I guess that's why I was having so many problems with mine but I'm not a mechanic
How well balanced does drive shaft need to be I bought a used one it's not Bent but it has a couple of small dents in it seems to be doing okay but I'm a little afraid to go too fast
@@scottcampbell7530 You will be able to feel and hear if there is a driveshaft vibration. Typically dents are not good, but you may be able to get away with very small dents.
+Mario Dalla Riva Hi, they are coated with Zinc Phosphate. See my other video for more info ruclips.net/video/BjPFzFkNmjE/видео.html Thanks for watching!
As much as I love these, some, ok most of these don't work in my garage. In fact, and I do this very, VERY carefully, but I pull the drive shaft out, clamp it softly in a vise, take my Skilsaw and put a metal cutting blade on it and cut the old U-joint out. It takes maybe a minute. Then, very carefully clean out the ears, with an air sander, until you can put the caps in by themselves, easily, then C-Clip them in. Saves time, grief, my garage walls have fewer holes in them, from not throwing as many tools at them. Life is better, the dog is happier. Because he doesn't get a beating. Lol, just kidding, I haven't had a dog in a decade.
Thank you for your feedback. After cutting out the joint cross, you would still need to make sure you do not bend the end yoke ears when pushing out the caps. Have a great day!
That looks like a 1350, or 1410 u joint not a 1330. The 1330, and 1310 u joint only come with copper, grey, and green snap rings. The 1350, and 1410 spicers come with grey, gold, and purple snap rings. Also regardless of the axial play in the joints, balancing the shaft after replacing the joints is the best way. I’ve owned a driveline shop for a long time built 1 piece aluminum conversion hellcat aluminum shafts etc, and also have replaced u joints on used, and new drivelines steel and aluminum and never had anyone complain about driveline vibrations. Never have I used the grey, green, purple, clips in the spicer u joints.
Make sure the snap ring grooves are very clean. Make sure the u-joint is assembled correctly. If that does not help, you will either need thinner snap rings or another (high quality) u-joint. Best wishes.
@@WeberAuto got them from advanced. The one that went to the differential fit perfectly. After no success with the front twice, I had to go back out to buy one from autozone. My trucks 2wd so they had to go in to drive. I got a 3/4" socket with a roofing hammer of mine. It caved in the edges enough to snap in but ruin the cap. The one from autozone fit perfectly barely no effort.
This is a great video series. However, any real mechanic would starve if he works this way. Therefore, the method is probably unnecessarily accurate. Second, the new clip rings, once installed, look worse than the old ones. So the old ones are still good. Finally, most people beat on the ears and that tend to reduce the distance between them. So the cheap aftermarket ujoint might purposefully provide thinner snap rings. In reality, the vibrations is generated from seized up joints, not those with a small amount of axial play.
This guy is annoying, remove the snaprings, press u joint out, press u joint in, new snap rings and your done. Never had an issue. Not that serious. I have a 650hp mustang and another mustang sitting at 1000hp…….guess what, no issues
5 years after this series was created I watched all 7 parts and I’m absolutely amazed at how in-depth and thorough this all is. I’ve learned so much! Thank you for sharing this!
Weekend DIY mechanic here...I was hooked on every moment in all 7 of these videos. I'm....embarrassed by how I've done u-joints in the past after watching this. I really appreciated the history and evolution of u-joints. Thank you for making this available.
Appreciate when things do not fall right into place, even when doing the task correctly. knowing how to adjust/correct the part is all part of being a mechanic. Real life instruction right here.
I reference this video a few times a year, and people always say the same thing. Thank you!
This is clearly the absolute proper method to remove/install Universal Joints. I have watched every " How to " video on RUclips and with a clear conscience, would feel guilty if I followed any video other than these! My interpretation is that if one uses any other method, its a roll of the dice! You may have no problem at all or end up going down a rabbit hole trying to figure out what went wrong.....I am grateful for this series! THANK YOU for the in depth data, facts, analysis, undeniable procedure!
Thanks very much for making this series. I had no idea how much technology there is to a driveshaft and u-joints and I'm humbled by my lack of knowledge. I'm working on my truck drive shaft at the moment and fortunately found and watched your series before I put it back together. Thanks again very much. John McClanahan, Atlanta
Thank you John
What a wonderful seven part series. I am in my sixties, but have never seen anything like your presentation. I now know how to replace U-joints. Well done. Very well done
Thank you!
wow I have just watched your video's on U/J checking & replacement..
and it's the best by far I have ever seen.. thank you John.. I only found your channel yesterday, so now am going to start from your first and watch them all.... love to see a true professional work..
+dsldg2 Thank you very much! Have a great day!
This was a great series. I watched them all and was thoroughly engrossed in them. Thank you, Professor Kelly.
What a great series. I feel like I paid for a college course, very in depth. Thank you!
+Chance George Thank you!
I'm so glad I watched this entire series. After rewatching other people's videos on RUclips it's clear they don't know what the hell they're doing. One guy painted the ears on his yokes and then lubed them with transmission fluid before hammering his new ujoint into place.
Thank you so much for taking this time to research everything and make this series to sharing it!
Thank you for all the info, seven part series on U-Joints how thorough very interesting. I appreciate all the effort you obviously go through to make these excellent training videos.
Thank you very much!
There is a serious lack of availability with snap rings in various thicknesses and the fact kits are only supplied with one size shows a SERIOUS PROBLEM with the industry. This is so bizarre that spicer are the only ones to supply several, and even at that they vary alot. whats needed is a vast assortment of .050" - .065" in .001" increments.
This man John Kelley is worth his weight in gold, most people who claim to know alot about ujoints have never even heard of this stuff or what in the world axial play IS.
I’m fighting tooth and nail right now trying to find thinner retainer clips. Working on my ‘72 and replaced the ujoints. Using the .060” clips, i have zero play. I don’t have a thinner clip😑
@@WhipperSnapper51 i have come up with a system using a micrometer, grinder, and pencil eraser to shave them down.
normally this would yield a shit result, but ive figured it out.
i have a mega stash of snap rings in sandwich bags with sharpie.
another way could be a machine called a surface grinder.
i have enough video footage and notes in my journal at this point to write a book about this stuff. between watching his videos and making discoveries of my own with several shafts and sleepless nights ive realized stuff nobody else knows
Great video, I saw all 7 parts. It motivated me to do the work (driveshaft fix) in best shape.
Regarding the centering of the shaft, u-joint and shaft cup holder, imagine yourself as a machinist and do the following:
With dial indicator,
1) while the drive shaft removed, check the run-out of both transfer case and differential flange coaxially (mating surface) and diagonally (side way)
2) While rotating the drive shaft, measure the minimum reading of the dial indicator at the bearing cup outer surface (approximately at its center) for all of the four cups. This will give you an indication of how much the actual cross its self becoming off center from the real axes of the drive shaft. This can be complemented by using a micrometer to measure the thickness of the cup while the u-joint is disassembled. It is direct result from the assumption that the bearing surface (flat one in the cross) is a reference point and the cross has to form exactly a square shape otherwise the slow down and speed up movement will have variation on it. Also, this inspection will give you an idea about the flange yoke condition, if it bent, the variation between two facing cups become substantial.
3) from whatever runout we found across thee shaft, I think it can be reduced by playing with the different thickness snap ring to move the shaft across its axle (up, down, left or right) trying to compensated to whatever defect found in the drive shaft.
Top notch!! Thank you for all the preparation you have done for this series. The tools you show with part numbers, the vintage parts you acquired, the history lesson, fascinating! I did notice in this part 7 one small mistake. You mentioned that a 1330 series and a 1350 series has the same size cap and that they are just a different width. That is true for the 1310 to the 1330 series joints with a cap size of 1 1/16 and a compressed width of 3 7/32 for the 1310 and a 1 1/16 cap and 3 5/8 width for the 1330. The 1350 has a 1 3/16 cap and a 3 5/8 width.
Excellent video series John, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to get all of this information out there, and for free!!
Knowledge is a beautiful thing, so revealing. Thank you for your efforts making these videos. If I lived there I would seriously consider attending your school.
Thank you!
Thanks John, great series on U-joints . I've watched all 7 parts enjoying and learning from each one.
Thank you!
Thank you professor for your time devoted to this course. I learned so much knowledge watching your videos along with your incredible detail and patience. I always assumed one did bang on the joints for alignment, but now realize the delicate balance the universal joint performs, as it spins like a helicopter's rotor hub.
Thank you!
Thank you professor John D i'm leaning some new every day. Thank you for your efforts making these videos.
This was an outstanding series, John. I'm putting another video together this week, and I'm going to reference your effort.
Thank you very much!
This is a wonderful series. Thank you for your time. Now, I think I'll start my work over and be more careful...
Thank you for your videos. It is going to help me tremendously. I have never changed a u joint before and now I know what to expect.
Thank you!
I've always thought of these subjects you talked about in your videos and this is one point the other is radial runout and lateral runout and from what I've seen these are the reasons why a lot of parts fail! great subject!
Thank you! I totally agree!
WeberAuto I've actually seen belt pulleys on engines wobbly right from the factory not good at all!
Very respect to you.
the last days, i saw all 7 videos....
Please...more of this.
Vr,
Andreas
Thank you
Thank you, what a great series! I have watched a lot of your videos and want to thank you for your time.
Thank you very much!
Why in the world am I still watching this after I've finished replacing my u-joint already?? Very impressive precision... unlike my job 😂
Mr. Kelley, the reason why you did not see an initial change in the axial play from copper to gray at the 6:00 mark is because they did not exert enough force on the end caps to overcome their friction fit in the bores, this is why it takes a press to get them in or out. the pink ones obviously did the job, however i am not certain if you had any difficulty getting them in the grooves, or if you did any pressing when the footage was cut and the camera was momentarily off. you should be able to theoretically take the snap rings out, without the axial play being altered due to said friction fit of the ujoint bores. if you had too much axial play and went with thinner snap rings, youd have too much clearance the moment you assemble one side and would have to shift the ujoint in its bore to center it and take up that gap as well using a press, and the amount of force you initially exert onto the ujoint beyond what is needed when it butts up against (and is stopped by) the snap ring is initially what should give you your baseline axial play.
I can't remember ever buying a u joint that had multiple clips.
Also What about yokes that use straps?
When you replace the different snap rings to set axial play do you go back to the press and press the caps against the snap rings each time before checking with the gauge?
Yes, you must do that every time. Good feedback!
@@WeberAuto Was just going to ask that myself. I thought for a minute that was the reason the second set of rings yielded no difference. :) I wish I had seen this series before I did my driveshaft work. Now I have two cracked yokes and one bent one :) Oops
I was already planning to pull my u-joints to inspect them (non-greaseable), now I know how to do them right way! At 58 and still learning.
If there is no vibration and they are perfectly fine factory ujoints dont do it! You will be in a world of pain!
you bring clarity to teaching ...
+pei bossman Thank you!
I just finished the whole series on u-joints and have learned so much. After seeing other video posters and knowing how I have done it in the past, I'm afraid to have anyone else touch my u-joints, now. I am highly trained and dangerous! Thank you, sir.
My only concern now is finding the OTC Ford tool. I'm having no luck. Maybe, I can cut/build something from a piece of u-channel.
Okay.....I found it in two places. I can either pay $159 or $224. Nope. That ain't hapn'n. Not for a one-time use.
Your best bet is to go on ebay and get what resembles the tiger tool which has forks that press downward, also a large ball joint press that has a relief hole for the ujoint cap as it is dual purpose, both those tools are needed because they do 2 different necessary things.
Thank you! Top quality presentation!
Thanks for this detailed series on U-joints. I just changed 2 U-joints on my 2000 Tundra and believe it or not I encountered the exact same problem. The Toyota new OEM non-greasable U-joint just didn't fit. It was a bit taller than the original part and the snap ring didn't fit. For me being the first timer using a Harbor freight ball joint tool I just scrached my head what I did wrong. In process while I was forcing the caps I broke on cap so I had to buy another one. Finally because I didn't have a thinner snap ring I went ahead and shaved down the copper coated snap ring until it did fit. I wished I saw this series before I tackled changing the U-joints on my double cardan drive shaft.
Thanks for sharing!! Excellent series on u joints!!
Thank you!
Nicely done series. 👍
Wow---I have a new outlook on U-Joints---Thank you
+john james Thank you!
🤯 my mind is blown as he mentioned the measurements for aftermarket joints and snap ring thicknesses 🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃🥃 the things that make you cry for all the driveline complaints and diagnoses....
I can't say I've ever had caps slide that easy.
It’s not the caps that are sliding.
EDIT: I found out that Spicer 5-1410X and 5-1410-1X kits come with 4 sets of selective snap rings, so this should fit the bill!
Where can I get the colored snap ring sets? I had the driveshaft for my F-350 rebuilt at a local shop and it has a terrible vibration now. Took it back and they charged me $50 to tell me "nope, not a driveshaft vibration". I inspected each of the yokes and the center u-joint has 12 to 15 thou axial endplay, at least by my eyecrometer. I'll pull the shaft and do a full inspection. They replaced the center carrier too and didn't bother to replace the slinger or install the dust cap over the expose bearing! I'm not very happy with that shop, especially since they gave me the "you're crazy, get out of here" vibe. I'm so mad at myself for taking the "might as well have it serviced" approach when I took the shaft out. The original Spicer SPL209 joints were fine, just the center carrier rubber was deteriorated. I have purchased an OE replacement Dana carrier to replace the stuff they used. FWIW, all parts they used were Neapco, I'm very unimpressed with them at this time. Gonna have to do it all a second time, then have a conversation with the shop about getting my money back.
Great series. I learned a lot. Is it possible to trap an air bubble inside the bearing cap when putting it back on? If so, then I could see that causing problems with the snap rings being installed.
No, the caps are not free floating in the yoke ears, they are pressed in. An air bubble would be compressed or escape under those conditions. Thanks for your feedback!
I now relate the operation of universal joints to helicopter rotor hubs with blades attached, in that there is a static balance or run out which determines if everything is balanced. Then a dynamic balance is accomplished to trim the cord angle of the blades about the hub or universal joint. I never saw the relationship before, wow. If there is a vibration of any kind after replacement, it shows quickly, unlike a car where a higher speed might start the vib.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for this educational video! Very much in-depth & informative. After watching I decided to seek out a driveline shop and not just take my F150 to just any shop. My truck
had a vibration and I did notice some axial play in the rear joint. SKF U-joints were recommended and shaft was also checked for balance, which was corrected. Vibration is gone, and I'm hoping that these U-joints are a quality brand. Do you know who makes the motorcraft joints for Ford?
Almost all Ford u-joints I have seen are re-boxed spicer parts
Doing this now on a Mustang aluminum driveshaft and have 3 of the 4 clips installed but can’t get the last spring clip on the DS ear to seat, I cannot get the cap to sit any deeper and the needle bearings have not fell in the cap. Also they are not loosening up when I hit the edges of the flanges. Using Spicer 1330 U-joints
Thanks for your contributions...
Hi John a brilliant and thoroughly researched series. Very informative, there was so much I didn't know! Just as a comment as to why repair shops may have lost the art of driveline repairs....so many manufacturers only use staked uni joints in their drivelines now a days. I know staking the unis is nothing new, but it is becoming more common. Why they (the manufacturers) do it I just don't know...is it cost, ease of production or something I haven't thought of??. Much more cost effective to get the expert from the driveline shop to restake new unis and balance the shaft. Less grey hairs and trouble for the shop I suspect.
+tecnaman Thanks for the great feedback! I don't know why either.
Now I understand this thanks, one question I have is on some rear wheel drive cars I had there was some kind of vibration in the back of the car at 55/miles/h (speed) and engine braking only (let off gas pedal). I guess it is from drivetrain or final drive.
+g johan Thanks. Vibrations while using engine braking are usually caused by u-joint working angles becoming unequal because the pinion nose drops. See my video in u-joint working angles for more help. best wishes! ruclips.net/video/f1m-Fh5kiRU/видео.html
Good video sir. I just changed the u-joint a on my 1995 dodge ram 1500 3.9L 2wd and in looking to all the videos of the u-joints I did not do anything that you showed except for cleaning the joints and the groove were the lock goes is the first time that I hear of axial play on the joints usually what I do I change them and that is it now I am going crazy I will use them like this for the rest of the week and next Saturday I will check this and do the job and see if there is a noticeable vibration keep doing this type of videos and see you later
Amazing! i wanna someday work whit this level of quality
+Guilherme Angelo Bertuol Posselt Thank you!
@@WeberAuto
I'm here to learn. The other day I installed Spicer universal joints in mom's 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear driveshaft. They were the greasable type with the zerk on the cap. I cleaned the slight rust on the yoke with a small wire brush on a Dremel.
Before installing anything I test fitted the snap rings. I had 3 copper, 3 green, 3 grey, and 1 odd one the accommodate the zerk.
All 3 colors fit just fine. I searched and even called some tech at Spicer. All he said was the copper are the standard ones and those should be fine. Apparently the grey and green are thicker but I never got dimensions.
I installed everything by using the copper (on a hunch). After everything was fully assembled everything felt slightly too tight. What was I supposed to do? The other options would have been tighter and more difficult to install if not impossible.
I did find a video where someone file-fitted the snap rings to their liking. Is that ok? How would I know if it's tight due to the snap rings vs the yokes' own interference fit?
I hope it'll wear into itself and center itself, but I'm afraid it'll fail prematurely.
I intend to watch all 7 of your videos.... perhaps 1 per day. Could you point me towards which video would answer my concerns?
And have you got any videos on correcting driveline angles?
Thank you for reading this.
Another great video👍
John, having watched this video. It seems to me that you are effectively centering the U joint between the snap ring grooves of the two opposing yoke ears - albeit with some axial play according to spec. That assumes that the snap ring grooves in each opposite ear are exactly the same distance from the axis of the drive shaft. Is that always the case? Assuming that the ear(s) aren't bent inward or outward.
That is a good question. I would suspect there is always a small amount of offset. Excessive offset can be checked by measuring the runout of the driveshaft while mounted in the vehicle after installing the u-joints. Thanks for your feedback!
Awesome video! Thank you!!
Appreciate the information
very interesting sets of videos, very informative...id like to hear you about stacked u-joints with side compression caps especialy found on german cars...thanks very much.
what an awesome learning course. thanks for making these videos. it might be helpful if you have not to touch on the importance of replacing the ujoint straps. no one ever does when everyone should.
Thank you, I thought I mentioned the straps and bolts were not reusable in one of the videos in this series. I am going to make a video showing how much the straps stretch and form fit the u-joint caps upon initial installation.
You did, a couple times. Just yesterday I asked a transmission shop this question as a test to see if they know there stuff. They gave the wrong answer.
sonoma314 It is a very common misunderstanding. Thanks for your great feedback!
wow awesome video loved it!!
Thank you very much!
Very interesting. The Toyota book shows tapping the yokes (thick end). Is this to 'settle' the caps do you know? I honestly didn't know UJs were this in depth, like you say, would we treat other bearings the same? No!
+Toyota Tech Hi, yes, I have seen that part of the Toyota service information. It also shows using u-joint pulling tools that are no longer available for purchase; not very helpful. To Toyota's credit, they do show that checking axial play is needed and have given play specifications for years. I have looked at other manufacturer's service information for u-joint replacement and inspection, they look like they were written by a caveman with a hammer and chisel; no axial play is mentioned at all. Ford and GM are the only ones that show a u-joint removal tool that you can still purchase, but still no play or inspection. I have service manuals out of the 1950's that do a better job of describing how to change a u-joint than today's manuals. It seems like all the details have been slowly deleted over the years to a point where it is almost a lost art. That is why I decided I need to research this topic in great detail and try to restore proper methods, tools, and specifications to an industry that does not even know they are gone. Thanks for your feedback! No Hammers! ;)
+WeberAuto Well your research is very much appreciated. I think I have parts of the Toyota tool at work, if I can find the bridge part I think that could be used as you used the OTC tool. I'll route through the tool bins tomorrow.
A vice and a hammer is the best way to remove them. A socket and vice or press to install.
John, Thank you for a super series; obviously a lot of very hard work and much dedication! I'm curious how much axial runout is normal between trunnion and bearing cap? Surely there must be some as you wouldn't want preload on needle bearings. Assuming there is some runout allowed, would this runout within horizontal trunnions/caps add to runout as you measure runout in the vertical?
Thank you! Less then 0.002" but not zero is the typical specification for your Tacoma and most other vehicles.
It seems to me that measuring the snap rings between manufacturers should always go with a measure of the actual cross measure, I bet there different, also the spicer's thrust washers, I think, may allow for tighter axial play as its between metal and plastic as opposed to metal to metal. I've been a "shade tree mechanic" for many years, your videos have cured many bad practices for me, Thx much.
Thanks for your feedback One of my other u-joint videos actually shows the difference in the cross measurements from 7 different brands. It is quite revealing. see ruclips.net/video/BjPFzFkNmjE/видео.html
You must have had to move the caps out after installing the thinner snap rings?
Yes
Great vid installed new u joint and have play in the trunnion of the U joint on both sides and its a moog I bought from auto zone BTW caps sit nice and tight in the pinion yoke and the Drive shaft
John, How do you know how much of that 0.00197" is between the vertical trunnions (thrust ends) and their respective thrust washers/end caps ,,,,,,,,, and how much is between the horizontal end caps horizontal needle bearings and horizontal trunnion circumference surface?
The way you are measuring, might there be preload in the vertical cross pair, ,,,,,, and 0.00150" clearance within the horizontal end caps?
I was being very careful to only measure the vertical component. If you align it correctly, the horizontal movement will not matter.
You are calling out 0.00197" axial endplay in the video, but the chapter marks are 0.0197" axial endplay, that's an order of magnitude difference. The figure 0.00197" is close to the approximation for 0.05mm, so is the actual spec 0.05mm axial endplay? Put another way, 20 thou is a heck of a window and feels like too much, so I must assume the lower limit and take the spec to be 0.05mm.
I am humbled after watching this. No wonder i ended up with a vibration. Mine are on a 92 s10 with the inner c clip style retainers. The kit only came with one set but after installing, they were way too tight. Not sure how to go about fixing this. Any advice? Are there thinner retainers available?
Wouldn’t placing the dial on the drive shaft rather than the center point increase movement due to angular differences? Since we’re being so precise in the first place, I figured you would want to be as accurate as possible? I.e. the angle at the point of origin is increased the further away you move from that point?
awesome video
Thank you!
I have your app on my phone and i have corrected several things and my vibes have been reduced and now I am down to a T2 vibration. I looked at my front axle driveshaft and it appears to me that there is considerable side play or "movement in the universal. It seems like the caps should be tighter--and they are held with internal C clips on the inside of the yoke. Are there different thickness C Clips available to improve "centering" of the yoke like there are on the INTERNAL (or E-clips) that go on the outside?
Thanks
John
Great video today
+HUNTER Livingston Thank you!
+WeberAuto your welcome
Excellent series and very well laid out. I really learned a lot. That being said, and no disrespect intended, how would one charge for the extra time this procedure takes? I know in my mind without a doubt this is the right way, however, I don't see how you can perform these procedures within allotted flat rate time. I guess you could try and educate the customers and charge a premium. I just don't think that most people will pay what the job is worth. Again, I am sincerely meaning no disrespect. You have truly opened my eyes.
Thank you! I understand the dilemma. I do not have an answer for you. Knowing the correct way to perform these services will help you to a better job even if you feel the need to take some shortcuts. It will also help you diagnose problems more accurately. Best wishes!
WeberAuto It definitely will help in the future. Thanks again!
Hallo!
I'm trying to overhaul the IRS of my Jaguar E-type 1969 4,2 FHC LHD
I'm looking for any kit of snap rings/circlips with various thickness that can fit my u-joint but with less axial play possible?
the snap ring delivered with the new u-joint is 1.7 mm , too thick!
I've fit snap-ring 1,2 mm thickness but I measuring about 0.3/2=0.15 mm each side, too much!
I need something around 1.4 (... 1.5 maybe) or something in between
Where can I find this snap rings
thanks for the help!
Good question. I found them in the Spicer "Small Parts Catalog" online. I do not know who the original supplier was for your car, but Spicer is a good place to start. Best wishes.
I don't know if you're common with Jags much, but this guy has something to worry about. The independent rear suspension of Jaguar design used U-jointed driveshafts not only in the purpose they sound, but they were also upper suspension arm (kind of upper wishbone). So this suspension design surely needs more attention than the others.
And all along we have been doing this with sockets hammers and pieces of wood. If the clips fit, it ships 🤣
where would you find the spec if you want to check the play of the universal joint because i am going to build a drag car and i think this need to be done thanks
+265chevy Hi, That is a great question! It is hard to find a spec! Most of the service information I have access to seems to have been written by cavemen who don't even check play. l did find a specification in several locations though. 1. The Spicer Parts website media.spicerparts.com/media 2. The 2007-newer Toyota Tundra service manual for dirveshaft inspection (They use all Spicer parts). 3. A u-joint inspection procedure from Lexus for some staked-in u-joints they use. What I discovered is: The larger the u-joint, the larger the allowable play. Large Class 8 trucks (Semi Trucks) have 0.006" maximum play (from the spicer website). Light duty trucks (Class 1-3) like the F-150, Tundra, Silverado, Sierra have 0.002" maximum play (From Toyota's manuals). Small diameter driveshafts like the Lexus has have a maximum play of 0.001" (from Lexus' service information. I would use the 0.002" maximum for your drag car. Best wishes!
thanks for the quick reply i will go with .002 sounds about right
Everytime i get the u joint its fine and when i install the clips it wont move,, i banged the first ine with a hammer ( not the u joint or he shaft but the yoke) and it worked but now i cant get it to move, and ive banged and redone it,, any ideas
Very information I had no idea that there was that much to it I thought you just put them in and that was it I guess that's why I was having so many problems with mine but I'm not a mechanic
Thanks for watching
How well balanced does drive shaft need to be I bought a used one it's not Bent but it has a couple of small dents in it seems to be doing okay but I'm a little afraid to go too fast
@@scottcampbell7530 You will be able to feel and hear if there is a driveshaft vibration. Typically dents are not good, but you may be able to get away with very small dents.
sounds like the u-joint wasn't seated against snap ring after changing snap ring
Thank you man!!
Hi John. What are the coated clips coated in/with?
Thanks.
+Mario Dalla Riva Hi, they are coated with Zinc Phosphate. See my other video for more info ruclips.net/video/BjPFzFkNmjE/видео.html Thanks for watching!
Do you know how to remove an engine from a f250 and how to fix it because my brother's truck is broken but he does not know why It's broke
+HUNTER Livingston Sorry, I can't help you there.
+WeberAuto that is fine how are you doing today
+HUNTER Livingston I'm doing well, thank you.
Why not run cv joints in the drive shafts and eliminate all of this messing around?
They cost more, and the degree of freedom - required on steering axles - is not needed here.
what is the width of the grove that the snap rings fit in to ?
After watching this 7 part series, go back and watch others on RUclips showing how to change U Joints - it will make you cringe .
I have, that is one of the reasons I made this video series. Thanks for watching.
Where would I find the specs for a drive shaft
i can get why you would want to do this for a race application, or extreme performance... but i cant see this being done for my shitbox truck...
As much as I love these, some, ok most of these don't work in my garage. In fact, and I do this very, VERY carefully, but I pull the drive shaft out, clamp it softly in a vise, take my Skilsaw and put a metal cutting blade on it and cut the old U-joint out. It takes maybe a minute. Then, very carefully clean out the ears, with an air sander, until you can put the caps in by themselves, easily, then C-Clip them in. Saves time, grief, my garage walls have fewer holes in them, from not throwing as many tools at them. Life is better, the dog is happier. Because he doesn't get a beating. Lol, just kidding, I haven't had a dog in a decade.
Thank you for your feedback. After cutting out the joint cross, you would still need to make sure you do not bend the end yoke ears when pushing out the caps. Have a great day!
can you please make a video on how you do this I would love to see it, I' m all about saving time, thanks ahead of time
That looks like a 1350, or 1410 u joint not a 1330. The 1330, and 1310 u joint only come with copper, grey, and green snap rings. The 1350, and 1410 spicers come with grey, gold, and purple snap rings. Also regardless of the axial play in the joints, balancing the shaft after replacing the joints is the best way. I’ve owned a driveline shop for a long time built 1 piece aluminum conversion hellcat aluminum shafts etc, and also have replaced u joints on used, and new drivelines steel and aluminum and never had anyone complain about driveline vibrations. Never have I used the grey, green, purple, clips in the spicer u joints.
Wait! You said you would show how to remove the GM joints that are plastic-locked --- but you did not!!!
You are correct, but I did talk about them. They push out with the same U shaped tool and a press with no effort at all.
Let's be real. How many techs will even do any of this versus just throwing in a new joint and balancing the shaft then sending it out?
My snap rings only give enough room for one snap ring
Make sure the snap ring grooves are very clean. Make sure the u-joint is assembled correctly. If that does not help, you will either need thinner snap rings or another (high quality) u-joint. Best wishes.
@@WeberAuto got them from advanced. The one that went to the differential fit perfectly. After no success with the front twice, I had to go back out to buy one from autozone. My trucks 2wd so they had to go in to drive. I got a 3/4" socket with a roofing hammer of mine. It caved in the edges enough to snap in but ruin the cap. The one from autozone fit perfectly barely no effort.
great info, but it probably cost a customer 50 + hours labor time @ $50 an hr= $2,500.for u joints?
Joanne Webb if it take you 50 hours to do this then go work at the tire machine and sling some oil
Use the copper ones and throw the other ones away. .006" doesn't mean jack shit on a light aluminum driveline like that.
Thanks for your feedback!
This is a great video series. However, any real mechanic would starve if he works this way. Therefore, the method is probably unnecessarily accurate. Second, the new clip rings, once installed, look worse than the old ones. So the old ones are still good. Finally, most people beat on the ears and that tend to reduce the distance between them. So the cheap aftermarket ujoint might purposefully provide thinner snap rings. In reality, the vibrations is generated from seized up joints, not those with a small amount of axial play.
No time and money to do it right. Just to do it "good enough for now" and send it.
thx for imstalling C.C option ... more hlepful ....
Yeaaah.... Fuck all this I'll replace it if it breaks.
Thanks for your feedback
This guy is annoying, remove the snaprings, press u joint out, press u joint in, new snap rings and your done. Never had an issue. Not that serious. I have a 650hp mustang and another mustang sitting at 1000hp…….guess what, no issues
I bet you think you are a great lover, because your wife has never complained, either.
Peste ang dami mong salita kulang ka sa gawa 😂 lol