For my 20" folding bike I carry a roll of gorilla tape. Don't need to remove wheel ( which is a real pain, especially on the rear.) Just patch the tube, sticks well without too much cleaning. Used to replace tube when I got home, don't even bother to do that now, it works so well.
Great video Ollie, especially the bit about placing opposite bead in middle, never to old to learn. You may want to do a version with rim brakes and releasing the caliper, especially when trying to reattach a fully inflated tire
I used to get a puncture every other day in Winter travelling to work. It was always on wet roads and usually small pieces of glass. I always carried a spare tube but removed the inner tube to carefully gauge the puncture and where it matched the tyre then carefully identify and remove the puncturing article. After removing the article I would also check the rest of the tyre before replacing. My dear Dad gave me an easy off tyre lever made of plastic which made tyre removal a breeze. My time was usually around five minutes. Later my dear Parents gave me a Specialized puncture proof tyre for Christmas....bliss, no more punctures riding to work.
This video came in handy! After years of (luckily) avoiding punctures, I got one at the start of a 3-day bike trip, far from any town. I used this video to refresh my memory (I'd taken a bike repair class a few months prior) and successfully changed the tube on the side of the road (mosquitoes completely devoured me, though). I had a wonderful and punctureless bike trip after that! So, thanks! P.S. The yellow tube made it so much easier to see and understand what you were doing!
Don't just check the tyre for sharp bits, but also check that the rimtape is OK (smooth, not missing). Keep your spare inner tubes out of sunlight to keep them in good shape. The baby powder suggested by Chris Herbert is also a good one (may even reduce rolling resistance). Oh, and when you put on a type, make sure that a label is next to the valve. This will allow you to find the sharp bits from the location of the puncture in the inner tube.
Absolutely! Even better, pump up the tube and then circulate it through a full sink of water or a bucket, and you'll easily see where the offending hole is!
@@gcntech can the next video be a buyers guide on bags that can accommodate a mug, a kettle, a stove, a washing up bowl and a few litres of water in case we get a puncture while out and about? 😃
I used to feel pretty comfortable doing this on my old hybrid… was super easy to use my hands to roll the tire back on for that last bit, so figured I’d be all set for my road bike. That was definitely not the case yesterday during the fondo I was doing; couldn’t get the tire back on after a flat for the life of me, even broke one of the levers in my kit! Definitely worth taking the time to practice with a new set of wheels/new bike!
Tyre manufacturers do vary in difficulty, for sure. Though we steer clear when we can, using a tyre lever is sometimes the best option if you're struggling!
I just put on a new set of Conti 5000s this morning on carbon Rovals. Used levers to pull off first bead But able to install new ones tool less. Make sure the first bead installed is in center, and that excess tire slack is pushed towards remaining section of tire to push on
Pretty good. As a newbie, I was confused by a few things, even after re-watching. For example, you talk about the tire "bead" toward the end but I don't think you explained what that is in the beginning. You also reference a polyurethane tube later that you didn't talk about earlier. But I did like your tips on how to put the new tube and tire back on the rim to make it easier and less likely to damage the tube. Thank you.
One thing I always do if I have a mini pump is to pump up the inner tube with the flat to find where the puncture happened. Once u do that u can find the spot on the tire where it happened and check the tire for anything embedded
Thanks for the clinical GCN, I'll be sure to order a GCN mug etc. I love GCN racing highlights videos and all the great information. And please be safe everyone. Ride with a group if possible. Motorized thugs and thieves look for lone wolfs.
Excellent! I agree that it’s best to try to avoid using levers to re-seat the tire after installing the new tube. Maybe in some cases it’s not possible, but I think that by following your tips it should be in most cases. Thanks again, great demonstration. 👍
I always run a finger around inside the tire, looking for things that could puncture a new tube. One time I cut my finger so bad, it wouldn't stop bleeding. I had to sit there for close to 10 minutes, pinching my forefinger and thumb together, until it finally stopped. For spares, I always carry tubes that I've already patched. Some of them are old, and have three or four patches. I always use small Rema tip top patches, in a box of 100. (a lifetime supply)
I have a few tips. It helps if your replacement tube is coated in baby powder. The powder allows the tube to slide easily inside the tire during inflation. I store my spare tube inside a ziplock bag, already coated with baby powder. I had to help a friend with a flat once. The tire had a big hole in it so we needed something to place inside the tire to prevent a tube blowout. I used a dollar bill. They're quite strong enough for the job. Come to think of it, I never got my dollar back (been 30 years...). Finally, running your fingers around inside the tire may help to identify the culprit, but that doesn't always work. What I do is to take my tube out and carefully lay it on top on the tire/rim just the way it came out. I fill the flat tube with air and check for where the air is coming out. That points to the part of the tire to inspect more carefully. I've found pieces of glass or rocks that weren't detectable by the fingers.
Great video, however [warning; total noob at this] I was changing a rear MTB tyre and tube alongside watching this and once I'd finished and was about to put the wheel back on.... the air turned positively blue. I found words I didn´t even know existed! The reason for this is that at no point in your otherwise very helpful tutorial, did you mention the tread direction (this may only apply to mtb tyres) Of course, I've put it on facing the wrong way. This wouldn't be much of a problem with the front wheel, but sadly I didn't take into account the cassette being on the correct side! :)
Hello, you are the best one of GCN Team Tech ✌🏻but I think it’s better to show us the same thing in the road ;-) and also with a tubeless. Thanks for these video
When you take the old inner tube out, pump a little air into it, listen or feel for air escaping and it should give you a hint where on the tyre to check for sharps.
Great tip! This is made even easier if you put the pumped up inner tube in a bucket of water, then the bubbles where the air is escaping will lead you to the hole!
there are tools called "tire jacks" that are used to get the tire onto a tight rim, but without risk of damage. Kool Stop makes a great one for the shop, and there is a portable tire jack called "EZ Clincher". I keep one in my saddle bag.
My dad uses a smear on washing up liquid to make it easier to remount the tyre. (But remember to remove any excess from the braking surface!) Tyres had a steel cable in the bead, back in the Olden Days.
I carry a business card in my saddle bag as an emergency ‘get me home’ repair for a hole in the tire. Works great! It’s the perfect size to fit inside a 23-25 mm tire.
#askgcntech I often find the recommended pressure on the tire is different than what is listed on the wheel? My TT HED carbon wheels for example state 70 psi but my Pirelli tires (following their handy chart) state 90 psi based on my weight. Whom do I follow?
When replacing a tyre/ inner tube at home I wear a pair of gardening gloves for the last bit of tyre. The extra traction they give when rolling on the last bit of tyre always works. Not so practical out on the road!
I find it handy to have a piece of chalk handy to mark any anomalies in the tire or rim. It's aggravating to find something potentially problematic, then to lose it and have to track it down again.
Video sounds great - very simple BUT... in my experience (a frustrating experience) trying to get the tyre off with or without tyres levers is a nightmare. Eventually I am able to get the tyres off and the replace the inner-tubes but my poor fingers and especially thumbs, are sore for a few days afterwards. These DIY 'change the inner-tube' videos would be more helpful and realistic, if difficult to remove tyres - e.g. brand new tyres were featured...
It can definitely vary from tyre to tyre in terms of difficulty, but we'd always recommend using your hands first, and use tyre levers as a last resort
@@gcntech Thank you and yes, I can see this is good advice. But in practise for me, still difficult. I have Continental GP5000s and pretty darn tight. But low rolling resistance and good puncture resistance also. I actually always carry 'the bomb' aerosol to inflate to get home before changing, it works!
I'm not sure about the correct term in english: professional tire changing workshops (for cars) use special tire changing paste that helps to slip the tire into the rim. The paste is cheap. The smallest amount one can buy is a 1kg bucket which is much more than you need in your lifetime. I went to a local workshop with a container and a spoon, asked politely and they let me fill it (I put 2€ into the coffee savings box). I always carry a small container when I'm biking. You don't have to worry about the tube slipping within the tire because the paste evaporates quickly. It's not a magic trick that solves all your problems with difficult rims but it can be helpful.
When i inflate tyre and gets hard i see its not same in all places... Somewere is good and somewere is sticking lil bit . And when i hold the wheel and spin it, i look when is rotating and tyre its going left and right.
For puncture proof tyres use adjustable zip ties, put the bit the tie feeds through against the rim. Squashing the tyre against the rim makes it easier to out on. Carry a small container of chalk / talcum powder in a small bottle instead of using provided chalk.
Call me old fashioned but I thought that any self respecting cyclist and regular commuter would know all this stuff. My experience with different tyres and wheels is that they don't always cooperate with the rider as easily as this demonstrator alludes, particularly some Campag ones. The only new information that I might take on board would be to fill my insulated bidon with a brew especially when it's raining or snowing just in case I puncture.
The notion that GCN managed to create a video about Tire Repair and NOT squeeze in a "sponsored" mention of anything 👉TUBELESS👈 is quite surprising!😲🤯😲
The best way to prevent punctures and all drama around it is to buy a puncture resistant tires. Yeah they are not light, but usually you dont have supporting car with spare wheels on your ride. I have been riding road bike for about 3 years now, no puncture yet and I am in the heavy category riding also on bad roads. With my city bike I punctured every second exit.
You forgot to say: line up the company logo of the tire with the valve...when you get a puncture and locate the hole in the tube you can then match the area on the tire of the potential debris that might still be stuck in the tire. P.S.: I guess you didn't want the video to last 30 minutes, hence why you didn't use a CONTINENTAL tire! 😆
PSA: Do not partly inflate your tire with your mouth after suffering a flat during a hard effort/interval. You may pass out, crack your helmet, and give yourself a concussion... 🙈
That's why I only pay with a card at the café. This prevents using the bill. but I keep a couple of gels on board and use them. If they can't hold, it's time to call for a lift.
Don't use levers to get the last, stubborn bit onto the rim? I strenuously disagree. Especially if you're trying to reseat GP 5000 tires (tyres) or something similar, most people are going to need some leverage.
Insert the inner tube starting from the valve first, then work your way out to tuck the rest into the rim and tire. Is your valve always at an angle instead of sticking out vertically?
Ok Ollie, let’s see you install a Schwalbe Marathon Greengaurd tyre with just your fingers. Better yet, let’s have a contest between all the presenters and see which one can do it the quickest with just their fingers
At 2:46, IMHO, it's completely opposite. It's important to get the SECOND side of the tire in the groove of the rim as much as possible to have enough slack in the bead to pop the last part over the rim. To that end, it often helps if the first side is out of the way in its final position (also, to relieve any excess pressure in the tube).
Indeed, the position of the back side is less important. More important is to get inflation of the inner tube perfect, no to hard so it does not hamper the upfront side to slide into the groove and hard enough to prevent the inner tube to get caught between the rim and the tire. And Chris always finish at the valve please!!!!
What has happened to repairing a tube ? A patch ? Are we all in so much of a hurry . As a kid I never imaged removing a wheel to repair a puncher , a patch , contact glue , a pin , sandpaper ,and a piece soft chalk . Lucky if I had something like a tyre leaver or a tool to remove the the NUTS to remove the wheel .
Step 1….fix yourself a coffee because you’re changing your flat at home because you forgot to bring your spare tube, pump and levers. Step 2….remove your wheel by grabbing your disc.
there is no "quick" method to fix the flat. taking time making sure to identify the cause of the flat and make sure to add the air slowly to ensure the tire is seated correctly in the rim. also for rip on the tire, paper money [I always carry some paper $$ when riding for emergency stops and for food] works wonder as they are none stretchy and strong with coarse surface so stay-put during installation unlike gel/protein wrappers which is made of slippery and very thin plastic which can also wrinkle inside.
Sometimes it's not because of the sealant being sticky (depending on the composition), it's mostly because your rims lock your tire beads hard. Take a look down the rim of various tubeless-compatible wheels and you'll notice which ones lock the beads hard and which ones don't.
@@yonglingng5640 any suggestions on how to remove them? I have seen some ppl laying the wheen down and pulling from the spokes, not sure if that is safe.
@@FRamirez1A Currently, I push one point of the tire sidewall inwards, right where the bead is, with my thumbs as hard as possible to get the bead to unseat from the rim. Some will take a few attempts due to soreness and pain building up inside the thumbs that contribute to strength loss overtime.
@@wuzihuzi I will, but someone has to ask for it, I will not save those who do not want help. when the outer tire is returned to the wheel, it is never started on the valve because: then there is not enough rubber to mount it because the valve is in the way, the tire can not sit deeper in the rim, ,, you should start opposite the valve, parallel to both sides, insert the outer tire into the rim and at the same time, stretch it so that the root of the tire is in the middle of the width of the rim and when you reach the valve symmetrically on the left and right side of the valve, there is enough rubber left that it can be pushed into the wheel with only your hands, without levers
@@WarHammerWH00:48 let the remaining air out of the tire, squeeze the tire with your fingers to get it out of the channel, pull the tire towards the valve so that there is as much room on the valve as possible to place the levers. always start by removing the tire from the valve on the left and right. 1:06 remove tire from rim and then inspect tire. 2:52 that positioning of tire should be done at beginning to get more space at valve. 3:12 always start with the installation of the tire opposite the valve, left and right, and should finish with the installation parallel to the left and right of the valve, because the tire opposite the valve rests in the middle of the rim, so there is more space on the valve to complete the installation. 3:52 press valve inside of wheel to let tire root to align on rim if not you could get bump on tire because inner tube can stay below tire everything I have stated is very important that the tire change is done easily and quickly, and his work is at the level of a beginner amateur who has changed 2 tires in his life, and those that do not even need levers, but come off the rim by themselves
Have you ever changed an inner tube? Do you have any hacks? Let us know in the comments!👇
Hacks? Sure...get yourself a 'Tyre Glider'. Best tyre accessory I ever bought 👍
For my 20" folding bike I carry a roll of gorilla tape. Don't need to remove wheel ( which is a real pain, especially on the rear.) Just patch the tube, sticks well without too much cleaning. Used to replace tube when I got home, don't even bother to do that now, it works so well.
Can you do a video on gcn and and you ever RUclips channels of how to wash your Garmin heart rate monitor strapped and how to change the battery
Great video Ollie, especially the bit about placing opposite bead in middle, never to old to learn. You may want to do a version with rim brakes and releasing the caliper, especially when trying to reattach a fully inflated tire
I used to get a puncture every other day in Winter travelling to work. It was always on wet roads and usually small pieces of glass. I always carried a spare tube but removed the inner tube to carefully gauge the puncture and where it matched the tyre then carefully identify and remove the puncturing article. After removing the article I would also check the rest of the tyre before replacing. My dear Dad gave me an easy off tyre lever made of plastic which made tyre removal a breeze. My time was usually around five minutes. Later my dear Parents gave me a Specialized puncture proof tyre for Christmas....bliss, no more punctures riding to work.
This is key, too - it's a lot about tyre choice. If you're fed up of the punctures, you should ideally invest in more resistant tyres!
First time replacing a tire and this video helped loads. Thank you 👍
Thanks. Helped me get my tube on my tire without any issues.
This video came in handy!
After years of (luckily) avoiding punctures, I got one at the start of a 3-day bike trip, far from any town. I used this video to refresh my memory (I'd taken a bike repair class a few months prior) and successfully changed the tube on the side of the road (mosquitoes completely devoured me, though). I had a wonderful and punctureless bike trip after that!
So, thanks!
P.S. The yellow tube made it so much easier to see and understand what you were doing!
Don't just check the tyre for sharp bits, but also check that the rimtape is OK (smooth, not missing). Keep your spare inner tubes out of sunlight to keep them in good shape. The baby powder suggested by Chris Herbert is also a good one (may even reduce rolling resistance). Oh, and when you put on a type, make sure that a label is next to the valve. This will allow you to find the sharp bits from the location of the puncture in the inner tube.
Rimtape is often overlooked as the cause! Great tip!
Always remember to check the direction of the tyre as well, so annoying when you think you’re done but then spot the tyre is on backwards 🤦🏼♂️
Even worse if it's tubeless lol.
A mistake we've all made!
it is only important for mtb off road tires, for road slicks and sem islicks, no matter
But those tiny directional arrows are hard to see.
pump up the tube after taking it out so you can see where the hole is and hence where to examine the tyre for thorns etc.
Yes,yes,yes!
Absolutely! Even better, pump up the tube and then circulate it through a full sink of water or a bucket, and you'll easily see where the offending hole is!
@@gcntech can the next video be a buyers guide on bags that can accommodate a mug, a kettle, a stove, a washing up bowl and a few litres of water in case we get a puncture while out and about? 😃
That’s a great benefit of aligning the sidewall decal with the valve!
I used to feel pretty comfortable doing this on my old hybrid… was super easy to use my hands to roll the tire back on for that last bit, so figured I’d be all set for my road bike. That was definitely not the case yesterday during the fondo I was doing; couldn’t get the tire back on after a flat for the life of me, even broke one of the levers in my kit! Definitely worth taking the time to practice with a new set of wheels/new bike!
Ah that's really not ideal! Did you manage to finish?
@@gcntech I did, thankfully! Had a helping hand from a couple other cyclists; gotta love the support and kindness of the cycling community!
I feel like every tube/tire replacement video should use continental tires. I want to see others struggle as much as I have
Yep, I managed to puncture 4 new inner tubes when installing Conti tire on single wheel.
Tyre manufacturers do vary in difficulty, for sure. Though we steer clear when we can, using a tyre lever is sometimes the best option if you're struggling!
I just put on a new set of Conti 5000s this morning on carbon Rovals.
Used levers to pull off first bead
But able to install new ones tool less. Make sure the first bead installed is in center, and that excess tire slack is pushed towards remaining section of tire to push on
I use contis, and I've never had a problem putting them on or getting them off the tyre, even without levers.
@@pembrokeshiredan you should change your name to Dan Super!
Pretty good. As a newbie, I was confused by a few things, even after re-watching. For example, you talk about the tire "bead" toward the end but I don't think you explained what that is in the beginning. You also reference a polyurethane tube later that you didn't talk about earlier. But I did like your tips on how to put the new tube and tire back on the rim to make it easier and less likely to damage the tube. Thank you.
One thing I always do if I have a mini pump is to pump up the inner tube with the flat to find where the puncture happened. Once u do that u can find the spot on the tire where it happened and check the tire for anything embedded
Thanks for the clinical GCN, I'll be sure to order a GCN mug etc.
I love GCN racing highlights videos and all the great information.
And please be safe everyone. Ride with a group if possible.
Motorized thugs and thieves look for lone wolfs.
That was great Ollie, now do it again outdoors in the lashing rain and a howling wind, and then we'll have real life!
I usually inspect the rim strip after removing the tube. Sometimes if it is not seated correctly it can cause a flat.
This is very easy to overlook - even Ollie did it!
Excellent! I agree that it’s best to try to avoid using levers to re-seat the tire after installing the new tube. Maybe in some cases it’s not possible, but I think that by following your tips it should be in most cases. Thanks again, great demonstration. 👍
it is possible not to use levers but he did not explain how
I always run a finger around inside the tire, looking for things that could puncture a new tube. One time I cut my finger so bad, it wouldn't stop bleeding. I had to sit there for close to 10 minutes, pinching my forefinger and thumb together, until it finally stopped. For spares, I always carry tubes that I've already patched. Some of them are old, and have three or four patches. I always use small Rema tip top patches, in a box of 100. (a lifetime supply)
I have a few tips. It helps if your replacement tube is coated in baby powder. The powder allows the tube to slide easily inside the tire during inflation. I store my spare tube inside a ziplock bag, already coated with baby powder.
I had to help a friend with a flat once. The tire had a big hole in it so we needed something to place inside the tire to prevent a tube blowout. I used a dollar bill. They're quite strong enough for the job. Come to think of it, I never got my dollar back (been 30 years...).
Finally, running your fingers around inside the tire may help to identify the culprit, but that doesn't always work. What I do is to take my tube out and carefully lay it on top on the tire/rim just the way it came out. I fill the flat tube with air and check for where the air is coming out. That points to the part of the tire to inspect more carefully. I've found pieces of glass or rocks that weren't detectable by the fingers.
+1
Great tips, Chris, cheers!
lets see Ollie put a conti GP5000TL onto the rim just using his thumbs!!
If you think this one's tough (which it is on some rims), try ENVE's. It's the most stubborn tire I've ever worked with.
I have. There is an art to doing this. Yes, it involves using heat and stretching.
Great video, however [warning; total noob at this] I was changing a rear MTB tyre and tube alongside watching this and once I'd finished and was about to put the wheel back on.... the air turned positively blue. I found words I didn´t even know existed! The reason for this is that at no point in your otherwise very helpful tutorial, did you mention the tread direction (this may only apply to mtb tyres) Of course, I've put it on facing the wrong way. This wouldn't be much of a problem with the front wheel, but sadly I didn't take into account the cassette being on the correct side! :)
tire lever if used carefully will be just fine..some tire rim combo is just impossible to mount using power of thumb and palm.
I always do my best to mount with hands only, tire levers only act as my last resort.
It can be risky though, damaging your rims or just causing another puncture - it's usually fine, but we like to try without first 😁
Awesome video Ollie but, how do you fix a pinch flat with tubeless tyres?
Ever since I started using tubeless on my daily gravel. I haven't had a flat! Always get them on my classics
There are some HUGE benefits to tubeless!
Hello, you are the best one of GCN Team Tech ✌🏻but I think it’s better to show us the same thing in the road ;-) and also with a tubeless. Thanks for these video
When you take the old inner tube out, pump a little air into it, listen or feel for air escaping and it should give you a hint where on the tyre to check for sharps.
Great tip! This is made even easier if you put the pumped up inner tube in a bucket of water, then the bubbles where the air is escaping will lead you to the hole!
With some combos I could "persist" with my thumbs for a year and still no nearer
Oh absolutely! If necessary, you should use them, but we always try and steer clear if we can!
there are tools called "tire jacks" that are used to get the tire onto a tight rim, but without risk of damage. Kool Stop makes a great one for the shop, and there is a portable tire jack called "EZ Clincher". I keep one in my saddle bag.
My dad uses a smear on washing up liquid to make it easier to remount the tyre. (But remember to remove any excess from the braking surface!) Tyres had a steel cable in the bead, back in the Olden Days.
Definitely a great hack if you're really struggling - and with those steel beads, who wouldn't!
Can you do a Gatorskin vs race tires speed/time comparison? I feel like a lot of people ride gatorskins these days
I carry a business card in my saddle bag as an emergency ‘get me home’ repair for a hole in the tire. Works great! It’s the perfect size to fit inside a 23-25 mm tire.
Great hack! Also great if you meet a potential customer! 🤷♂️
Has anybody ever tested whether putting such a tire the wrong way makes any difference at all, I suspect it is more a marketing gig.
I have way more trouble with back tires. I need some tips on getting the wheel set properly and the chain put on correctly.
exercise
#askgcntech I often find the recommended pressure on the tire is different than what is listed on the wheel? My TT HED carbon wheels for example state 70 psi but my Pirelli tires (following their handy chart) state 90 psi based on my weight. Whom do I follow?
Absolutely. My Mavic Allroads have a maximum pressure of 65psi as they are hookless. The tyres on them have a much higher pressure rating.
Follow the one with a lower maximum pressure.
When replacing a tyre/ inner tube at home I wear a pair of gardening gloves for the last bit of tyre. The extra traction they give when rolling on the last bit of tyre always works. Not so practical out on the road!
I find it handy to have a piece of chalk handy to mark any anomalies in the tire or rim. It's aggravating to find something potentially problematic, then to lose it and have to track it down again.
Always align the logo with the valve and check the direction of the tyre.
Very easy to forget - and key if you want to make your bike look extra pro!
Video sounds great - very simple BUT... in my experience (a frustrating experience) trying to get the tyre off with or without tyres levers is a nightmare. Eventually I am able to get the tyres off and the replace the inner-tubes but my poor fingers and especially thumbs, are sore for a few days afterwards. These DIY 'change the inner-tube' videos would be more helpful and realistic, if difficult to remove tyres - e.g. brand new tyres were featured...
Not using tyre levers to put back on, hmmm, very difficult me thinks. But yes, if use them there is a need to be careful.
Yeah I use Vittoria Corse tyres are near impossible to get on by hand!
It can definitely vary from tyre to tyre in terms of difficulty, but we'd always recommend using your hands first, and use tyre levers as a last resort
@@gcntech Thank you and yes, I can see this is good advice. But in practise for me, still difficult. I have Continental GP5000s and pretty darn tight. But low rolling resistance and good puncture resistance also. I actually always carry 'the bomb' aerosol to inflate to get home before changing, it works!
I'm not sure about the correct term in english: professional tire changing workshops (for cars) use special tire changing paste that helps to slip the tire into the rim. The paste is cheap. The smallest amount one can buy is a 1kg bucket which is much more than you need in your lifetime. I went to a local workshop with a container and a spoon, asked politely and they let me fill it (I put 2€ into the coffee savings box). I always carry a small container when I'm biking. You don't have to worry about the tube slipping within the tire because the paste evaporates quickly. It's not a magic trick that solves all your problems with difficult rims but it can be helpful.
At home when fitting a new tyre and tube I coat them with automotive tyre dressing inside and out it helps them slide on much easier.
Would have like to see him mount a Continental GP 5000... LOL Anyone who has, you know what I'm talking about.
If a non-roadside repair, I will pay my LBS to mount my GP 5000s. Truly a pain in the.... thumbs....
Literally have one i need to mount onto my wheel... hopefully the s tr is easier to mount
When i inflate tyre and gets hard i see its not same in all places... Somewere is good and somewere is sticking lil bit . And when i hold the wheel and spin it, i look when is rotating and tyre its going left and right.
For puncture proof tyres use adjustable zip ties, put the bit the tie feeds through against the rim. Squashing the tyre against the rim makes it easier to out on. Carry a small container of chalk / talcum powder in a small bottle instead of using provided chalk.
This is definitely a great hack in a pinch - just don't tell our resident zip-tie hater Si!
If you have time, and you’re at home, I recommend dropping some talcum powder in that tire before putting in the tube.
Nice tip! It can really help get the tyre over the bead!
Thumbs up just for suggesting making tree as the first step.
I have never had a gpx 5k tyre fit on with just my thumbs. That was to easy Ollie haha
On that GCN Italia mug you should only brew coffee ☕️😂
The GCN Italia team were certainly not happy with Ollie...
@@gcntech oh God, he surely drank tea in that mug then! 😳 Alan and Brambo will never forgive him, he must now go back to the 45% slope 😂
what is this 'inner tube' you speak of???
why skip the rim tape part?
Call me old fashioned but I thought that any self respecting cyclist and regular commuter would know all this stuff. My experience with different tyres and wheels is that they don't always cooperate with the rider as easily as this demonstrator alludes, particularly some Campag ones. The only new information that I might take on board would be to fill my insulated bidon with a brew especially when it's raining or snowing just in case I puncture.
The notion that GCN managed to create a video about Tire Repair and NOT squeeze in a "sponsored" mention of anything 👉TUBELESS👈 is quite surprising!😲🤯😲
Waiting for the on my Dawes Galaxy I use Schwalbe Marathons comments 😃
Came here after puncturing the inner tube twice while putting it back on the wheel using a tyre lever !
The best way to prevent punctures and all drama around it is to buy a puncture resistant tires. Yeah they are not light, but usually you dont have supporting car with spare wheels on your ride. I have been riding road bike for about 3 years now, no puncture yet and I am in the heavy category riding also on bad roads. With my city bike I punctured every second exit.
You forgot to say: line up the company logo of the tire with the valve...when you get a puncture and locate the hole in the tube you can then match the area on the tire of the potential debris that might still be stuck in the tire. P.S.: I guess you didn't want the video to last 30 minutes, hence why you didn't use a CONTINENTAL tire! 😆
Hahaha so funny and true
This is a great tip, and as a bonus, it looks so much cleaner!
00:47 before putting tire lever into tire is important part, but you missed it
PSA: Do not partly inflate your tire with your mouth after suffering a flat during a hard effort/interval. You may pass out, crack your helmet, and give yourself a concussion... 🙈
Thank you for teaching from experience 😂
Eesh that doesn't sound great! We hope you're okay now!
I carried a dollar bill as an emergency boot.
Just make sure you don’t spend it on coffee and/or cake.
The real dilemma cyclists face everyday...
That's why I only pay with a card at the café. This prevents using the bill. but I keep a couple of gels on board and use them. If they can't hold, it's time to call for a lift.
As is well known in most 12-step programs, the 1st step is the MOST important step :D (apologies, had to be said.)
Run your finger looking for sharp objects, right, smart!
He did say to do it carefully 😊
Dont forget to save the punctured tube to do a patch repair later.
Don't use levers to get the last, stubborn bit onto the rim? I strenuously disagree. Especially if you're trying to reseat GP 5000 tires (tyres) or something similar, most people are going to need some leverage.
I always do my best not to, they only act as my last resort. I'm more likely to do it if the rim is aluminium.
I always struggle to place the valve correctly. Any tips?
Insert the inner tube starting from the valve first, then work your way out to tuck the rest into the rim and tire.
Is your valve always at an angle instead of sticking out vertically?
@@yonglingng5640 yes. that's the problem. The valve is at an angle. And once, I even made another puncture by ripping the valve away from the tube.
I can fix it in less than 3 minutes. knew tube and filled.
Wow, very impressive!
Rim brake! quick release skewer. I can make a video to prove it. let me know if it's necessary.
Ok Ollie, let’s see you install a Schwalbe Marathon Greengaurd tyre with just your fingers. Better yet, let’s have a contest between all the presenters and see which one can do it the quickest with just their fingers
02:32 what first goes
At 2:46, IMHO, it's completely opposite. It's important to get the SECOND side of the tire in the groove of the rim as much as possible to have enough slack in the bead to pop the last part over the rim. To that end, it often helps if the first side is out of the way in its final position (also, to relieve any excess pressure in the tube).
Indeed, the position of the back side is less important. More important is to get inflation of the inner tube perfect, no to hard so it does not hamper the upfront side to slide into the groove and hard enough to prevent the inner tube to get caught between the rim and the tire. And Chris always finish at the valve please!!!!
Good luck installing a new GP5000 without some levers :)
I've done that multiple times on different wheels.
Zwift flats?
This is so bloody difficult… can’t get it done for the love of god .. ruined 10 inner tubes ffs
00:49 where to start, not anywhere-you just have started anywhere
What has happened to repairing a tube ? A patch ? Are we all in so much of a hurry . As a kid I never imaged removing a wheel to repair a puncher , a patch , contact glue , a pin , sandpaper ,and a piece soft chalk . Lucky if I had something like a tyre leaver or a tool to remove the the NUTS to remove the wheel .
Step 1….fix yourself a coffee because you’re changing your flat at home because you forgot to bring your spare tube, pump and levers. Step 2….remove your wheel by grabbing your disc.
Tire lever stuck in butt, need clearer instructions
My record was in about 6 minutes 😅
Lightning fast!
ha ha ha that is a coffee break
3.45 "just persist" and when you begin to rub your thumb bones on the rim, switch to using your toes...
#wtfGary
There's always your teeth too if you're incredibly brave/unhinged
there is no "quick" method to fix the flat. taking time making sure to identify the cause of the flat and make sure to add the air slowly to ensure the tire is seated correctly in the rim. also for rip on the tire, paper money [I always carry some paper $$ when riding for emergency stops and for food] works wonder as they are none stretchy and strong with coarse surface so stay-put during installation unlike gel/protein wrappers which is made of slippery and very thin plastic which can also wrinkle inside.
Great hack!
Bead on bidon
I can neither confirm nor deny that I am that guy who gets multiple punctures on a group ride...
You're not the only one **cough** Hank **cough**
#ASKGCN HOW TO REMOVE A TUBELESS TIRE WHEN IS STUCK TO A CARBON WHEEL (because of SEALAND)
Sometimes it's not because of the sealant being sticky (depending on the composition), it's mostly because your rims lock your tire beads hard.
Take a look down the rim of various tubeless-compatible wheels and you'll notice which ones lock the beads hard and which ones don't.
@@yonglingng5640 any suggestions on how to remove them? I have seen some ppl laying the wheen down and pulling from the spokes, not sure if that is safe.
@@FRamirez1A Currently, I push one point of the tire sidewall inwards, right where the bead is, with my thumbs as hard as possible to get the bead to unseat from the rim.
Some will take a few attempts due to soreness and pain building up inside the thumbs that contribute to strength loss overtime.
You’d think spell check would’ve caught that they spelled tire wrong. Jeeze.
03:10 wrong wrong wrong, there is a scientific explanation that it is so wrong
Well then you better say it. You're not helping anyone by staying silent!
@@wuzihuzi I will, but someone has to ask for it, I will not save those who do not want help. when the outer tire is returned to the wheel, it is never started on the valve because: then there is not enough rubber to mount it because the valve is in the way, the tire can not sit deeper in the rim, ,, you should start opposite the valve, parallel to both sides, insert the outer tire into the rim and at the same time, stretch it so that the root of the tire is in the middle of the width of the rim and when you reach the valve symmetrically on the left and right side of the valve, there is enough rubber left that it can be pushed into the wheel with only your hands, without levers
This video's are just getting repetitive
Lol. Used a tire lever to get the last stubborn bit in and I tore the tube. Sigh.
you skipped and left out almost all the important things, I've seen beginners change a tire better
Ok princess, please educate us. What did he miss?
@@WarHammerWH00:48 let the remaining air out of the tire, squeeze the tire with your fingers to get it out of the channel, pull the tire towards the valve so that there is as much room on the valve as possible to place the levers. always start by removing the tire from the valve on the left and right.
1:06 remove tire from rim and then inspect tire.
2:52 that positioning of tire should be done at beginning to get more space at valve.
3:12 always start with the installation of the tire opposite the valve, left and right, and should finish with the installation parallel to the left and right of the valve, because the tire opposite the valve rests in the middle of the rim, so there is more space on the valve to complete the installation.
3:52 press valve inside of wheel to let tire root to align on rim if not you could get bump on tire because inner tube can stay below tire
everything I have stated is very important that the tire change is done easily and quickly, and his work is at the level of a beginner amateur who has changed 2 tires in his life, and those that do not even need levers, but come off the rim by themselves
ffs there's a recipie for a slashed finger, look first!