38MM Pathfinders always. Down to 25 PSI in fresh snow or sandy trails, 38-40PSI on gravel. 60 PSI on pavement. These tires do all, and at 60 PSI there is very little speed loss on pavement.
Rene Herse Manastash Ridge (nominal 44mm) on Wheelsfar wheels (24mm inner width). Tires blow up to 43mm, running ~30psi front and rear for gravel, ~35psi front and rear when bombing around town. When not out on group rides, find myself grabbing this bike instead of road bike to run errands, so much more comfy with bigger tires and lower pressure. Definitely not as fast as road bike, but it's not as slow as I thought it would be, either. A half-hour ride on the road is maybe 2-3 minutes slower but so much more comfortable. (edited to add I weigh 66kg)
The amount of pros who don't know what their tire pressure is, or who run it based purely on feeling is amazing. Its probably the most important thing about your bike setup, you need to test and know what is actually fastest.
No matter the bike/category, I always go tubeless with inserts and as wide as the frame can handle. I am not Racing and nothing beats comfort to get far. 40mm Gravel slicks on my road bike and 2.1 XC Tires on my gravel.
For wet of road conditions, you actually don't want tyres too wide. Usually, yes, wider tyre means more grip, but in the mud it will just make you slide, while a skinnier tire will kinda cut into the mud more
Going from 38mm pathfinder to 45mm Pirelli cinturato gravel M and RC. Flying on the downhills now and all weathers grip and still fast in the dry.only slower on the road.Running around 29psi depents on route and weather.
Most of us, initially will prefer as wide a tire as the frame will allow. This is for increased comfort and control. Eventually, gravel will split into: mtb territory trails, and smoother “gravel” or dirt roads. For mtb like trails most will always prefer as big a tire as possible: 45mm to 50mm As “gravel” skills, handling and equipment improve, the tendency is to go for slimmer tires: 38mm to 35mm. Tire pressure, is the main suspension equipment on the gravel bike, however, our most effective suspension comes from arms and legs. As skill develops , arm and leg suspension becomes more efficient, sharp impacts diminish, tire pressures can be reduced or inserts become less necessary. Riding becomes more efficient, and more comfortable. In the order that suspension shifts from equipment dependent to rider dependent: 1. Rider engagement and skill increases (have to be 100% present or you will bite the dust or bust you wheels) 2. Bike is simplified, but more precise(tire width and pressure, bike geometry and setup 3. Enjoyment and excitement increases 4. Bike maintenance and costs can decrease. Carbon rims, provided a notable improvement in my ride, so I highly recommend that upgrade.
Not really, narrower isn't necessarily faster, even on pretty good gravel. That's why nobody in the pointy end of unbound(not a technical race) is running 35-38mm tires on days when it's dry. Some fast riders will use them when it's muddy but that's solely due to not having a sponsor available bike with good clearance. Also, for hero dirt XC courses, nobody runs 1.8" tires anymore.
I’ve been racing gravel in the SE US for two seasons now, and the trend is definitely *WIDER* I started on 40mm last year and this year I’m running 47mm and I am by all metrics faster.
The error there is that using your body as suspension just gobbles up energy, and thus slows you down. Hysteresis losses will always be lower than suspension losses on gravel.
Well, you should consider putting more air in your tires. Your 100kg + bike weight + gear, I assume you should be around 115kg system weight, you should run around 37 psi rear and 34 front, for mixed terrain.
Without telling us the weight of the rider/bike/gear, and how fast they're riding, it's kind of meaningless. I'm not pro weight so not running pro pressures
@@well5423 I run 47mm Pathfinder Pro’s. It depends on the type of gravel, your weight, temps, speeds, pressures, and other factors. I’m definitely faster on 47’s this year as compared to the 40’s I ran last year.
@@well5423 For chunkier gravel and rougher washed out roads - or for a really long endurance race, I wouldn’t hesitate to run 53’s - specifically Schwalbe Thunder Burt’s.
What tyre width and pressure are you running on your bike?
40-47mm front at 20psi, 40mm rear at 30psi, likely going to move to 45mm front and possibly 47mm rear.
Maxxis Reaver 45 rear and front
25 psi on Hunts 25 inner aluminum wheels
25 mm, 6 bar :D
38MM Pathfinders always. Down to 25 PSI in fresh snow or sandy trails, 38-40PSI on gravel. 60 PSI on pavement. These tires do all, and at 60 PSI there is very little speed loss on pavement.
Rene Herse Manastash Ridge (nominal 44mm) on Wheelsfar wheels (24mm inner width). Tires blow up to 43mm, running ~30psi front and rear for gravel, ~35psi front and rear when bombing around town. When not out on group rides, find myself grabbing this bike instead of road bike to run errands, so much more comfy with bigger tires and lower pressure. Definitely not as fast as road bike, but it's not as slow as I thought it would be, either. A half-hour ride on the road is maybe 2-3 minutes slower but so much more comfortable. (edited to add I weigh 66kg)
The amount of pros who don't know what their tire pressure is, or who run it based purely on feeling is amazing. Its probably the most important thing about your bike setup, you need to test and know what is actually fastest.
No matter the bike/category, I always go tubeless with inserts and as wide as the frame can handle. I am not Racing and nothing beats comfort to get far. 40mm Gravel slicks on my road bike and 2.1 XC Tires on my gravel.
Cool and interesting bikes, thank you for covering them
Just like XC MTB racers, the Gravel racers seem to be pretty conservative when it comes to tyre choice for wet conditions......
For wet of road conditions, you actually don't want tyres too wide. Usually, yes, wider tyre means more grip, but in the mud it will just make you slide, while a skinnier tire will kinda cut into the mud more
Same goes for plenty of snow. Narrow studded tyre goes through, wide just slides on snow.
11:36 om gosh I love his bike. I like HT bikes and have a few of them but that BMC HT looks sick
Going from 38mm pathfinder to 45mm Pirelli cinturato gravel M and RC. Flying on the downhills now and all weathers grip and still fast in the dry.only slower on the road.Running around 29psi depents on route and weather.
Love my Gravel M’s. Instantly noticeable improvement cornering and flying downhill over my Maxxis Reavers
@@finnsmith309 yeah, it corners like a mtb. You can easy take some mtb xc trails.
I have a very similar setup on my bmc two stroke. Cool to see others doing it
love that red Hardtail!
BMC. Uba won the Tour Divide last year and is defending his title on this in a few weeks.
Hey, would you mind to give us both infos psi and bar ? You did it once but only the other way around ! Bar exists in Europe
Factor of 15 for a quick conversion. 75 psi = 5 bar. 30 psi = 2 bar.
really cool review :)
44mm WTB Raddlers 33psi rear, 32psi Front
Sheriiiii my Haribo Queen!!! ❤❤❤
At 6:45 those aerobars look amazing, anyone knows what they are ?
Still rocking 35mm G ones on forest roads.
That FARA setup was awesome !!
What is that frame bag?!
@@TimGorry FARA's in house magnetic bags.
Most of us, initially will prefer as wide a tire as the frame will allow. This is for increased comfort and control.
Eventually, gravel will split into: mtb territory trails, and smoother “gravel” or dirt roads.
For mtb like trails most will always prefer as big a tire as possible: 45mm to 50mm
As “gravel” skills, handling and equipment improve, the tendency is to go for slimmer tires: 38mm to 35mm.
Tire pressure, is the main suspension equipment on the gravel bike, however, our most effective suspension comes from arms and legs.
As skill develops , arm and leg suspension becomes more efficient, sharp impacts diminish, tire pressures can be reduced or inserts become less necessary.
Riding becomes more efficient, and more comfortable.
In the order that suspension shifts from equipment dependent to rider dependent:
1. Rider engagement and skill increases (have to be 100% present or you will bite the dust or bust you wheels)
2. Bike is simplified, but more precise(tire width and pressure, bike geometry and setup
3. Enjoyment and excitement increases
4. Bike maintenance and costs can decrease.
Carbon rims, provided a notable improvement in my ride, so I highly recommend that upgrade.
Not really, narrower isn't necessarily faster, even on pretty good gravel. That's why nobody in the pointy end of unbound(not a technical race) is running 35-38mm tires on days when it's dry. Some fast riders will use them when it's muddy but that's solely due to not having a sponsor available bike with good clearance. Also, for hero dirt XC courses, nobody runs 1.8" tires anymore.
I have never ridden carbon wheels. What is the improvement? Weight or comfort?
I’ve been racing gravel in the SE US for two seasons now, and the trend is definitely *WIDER*
I started on 40mm last year and this year I’m running 47mm and I am by all metrics faster.
The error there is that using your body as suspension just gobbles up energy, and thus slows you down. Hysteresis losses will always be lower than suspension losses on gravel.
07:49 what frame bag is she running?
Can I use a 29er 20mm Inner rim on a 700×38c tire and 38c frame??
why not.
@@黄辰旭 wouldn't that be too wide for the frame??
43mm Panaracer GK SS @ 32 PSI; they inflate to 45 mm.
Most expensive part of that studio of Liam? His PNS t-shirt ;)
Closely followed by his haircut 😂
I don't know what it is, but it's not a haircut 🤭
Why such high tire pressures ? I'm 100kg riding Pathfinders 42's (42/28) and 45's (38/25)....comfort + speed tested
I'm 90kg and I'm normally around 28-30psi if my ride is nearly all gravel... that's with tires measuring 42mm
Well, you should consider putting more air in your tires. Your 100kg + bike weight + gear, I assume you should be around 115kg system weight, you should run around 37 psi rear and 34 front, for mixed terrain.
What's the chainring at 4:30?
Looks like garbaruk :)
@@Jalfred92 Thank you!
Clydesdale riders: go max pressure and pick any wide tire. Works!
40's running 45/43.
29ers, 2.1" Terrenos, 38-40psi...
That's a lot of air. I'm 90kg and my 42s(measured) are almost never pumped to 32psi, definitely not if I knew I'd be in nearly no pavement
Ulrich is the best!
I noticed, no Shimano drivetrain
lol my gravel bike tire wide is 50-584mm
Without telling us the weight of the rider/bike/gear, and how fast they're riding, it's kind of meaningless. I'm not pro weight so not running pro pressures
Hello😊
Hello 👋
57cm!!!??😂
*WIDER* is faster on gravel. It’s a fact.
What do you recon is the sweet spot for going wide? Seems like almost everyone has settled on 45mm for now.
@@well5423 I run 47mm Pathfinder Pro’s. It depends on the type of gravel, your weight, temps, speeds, pressures, and other factors. I’m definitely faster on 47’s this year as compared to the 40’s I ran last year.
@@well5423 For chunkier gravel and rougher washed out roads - or for a really long endurance race, I wouldn’t hesitate to run 53’s - specifically Schwalbe Thunder Burt’s.
Why would anyone ever drink from the lowest bottle of the first rider???
Switch round the lids and they’ll be fine
10k for a bike and not know your tire? is shame on you...
Yes "Pro" racing for no money hmm
My god that was an awkward video to watch. Why not send someone who knows what they’re talking about? 🤷♂️🤦♂️
_-Your tyres are 46mm! It's gonna be a massive advantage over 45!_