I did my first box because of you and it turned out great. Its tuned to 20hz and the goal was to be as windy as possible with one 12 inch sub (ground zero GZRW 30-D2). Thank you for all your precious information!
WinISD is a super powerful tool once you learn how to use it. I wanted 8’s under the back seat of my F150. Winisd showed me that 3 would give more spl than 4. They are super clean and play way low for only 3-8’s. They are Skar svr.
Free Tip: You can simulate cutting layouts by creating a 48x96 panel, make it a group/component. Duplicate your entire project (select it all, copy and paste) then use the rotate tools to make them all flat and lay them on the 8x4 panel you made before. This can help visualise cutting and find the best cuts to minimise wastage and maximise leftovers 😊
The help file in winisd gives specific instructions as to which t/s parameters to enter and in which order. This will help avoid getting incorrect data and warnings from the software.
@@DIYAudioGuy Do you have experience in designing enclosures for home theatre? I have a situation in my living room where I'm struggling with de dimensions of the subwoofer cabinet I can put. I have roughly 180L (6.35cu.ft) outside dimensions available, but only 8 inches high, 12 inches deep and a bit short of 6ft long. Will 95% of the time be used for home theatre, not for music. The main speakers have a frequency range of 40-24kHz, but when watching movies I miss some sub. I'd be happy if I could take some of the frequency range of the main speakers and add that to a sub, so the mains don't have to work that hard.
I have a old but .75 box 10x10x28.5 inner space of sub box. It's sealed with dual pioneer ts203 8 inch subs so my only option is to buy a round port from Amazon so I can drill a hole or 2 between the subs. There are kits that can make holes for door handles and wondering if a pair of 3.5-4 inch ports would work with the length going in 8 inches? The amount of things required for calculators ask for things I have no idea about. I've been reading about tests of gluing foam against the inside walls of the box but came across a test of lightly packed stuffing that slows the air flow little that supposedly give a deeper bass sound.
I really enjoy watching your progress with the channel, I subscribed when you first started posting because you know what youre talking about when it comes to fabrication and install! I would love to see you do an(another) episode on enclosure bandpass orders and technical specs when brainstorming a build, I have trouble recalling the "F,Q,etc" and the implications when deciding what kind of oreder enclosure for certaIn type/application drivers. CHEERS! - From Texas
Yep I'm up in Toronto, Canada and we going thru a cold snap next few days. Currently it's -16⁰ Celcius (-27⁰ Celcius with windchill) so safe to say next few days I'll be doing indoor activities lol.
Nice. You were reading my mind. Thanks......................... Quad 8" paper cone woofers as bass cabinets for a 3-way stereo pair. It must be tried...lol Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
As he said different materials give different results per the application... but just to answer your question...... 3/4" MDF board is probably the most common and economical if youre new to the process.
Dunno if you have made a mistake, the design was 2x subs per box with the given port design then you've combined 2 boxes with the 2 ports into 1 outlet, I can see that you've doubled the width/area on the combined half of the port is that going to throw your calc's out isnt it?
I got a question about that xmax value. context: For my box and 12" driver I tuned the port much lower, 25hz. and bumped the internal volume to 2.6 ft³ - which moved the Xmax frequency lower too, trying to avoid needing infrasonic filter and trying to get more output down to 20hz - a lot of tracks I enjoy have frequencies as low as 20. and I have some nice 6x9's dealing everything above 70hz with the subs doing everything below. Are there any disadvantages to doing this?
Really need your help! I have 2 8"s in a ported box tuned at 35-40hz. They problem is have is that I'm using the stock headunit with and audiocontrol loc and ctsounds amp. ive tried setting the lpf but i cannot completely remover mids from my signal? what do i do?
One other question im rebuilding an opel gt and i have old sony pair 4 ch 800w, 2 ch 1000w, 2 ch 1300w amps. I want 6.5 and 6x9 component speakers 100Hz and up 800w amp, 6.5 subs in doors 40-120hz 1000w amp, hoping for 12 inch subs 20-60hz 1300w amp but box might not be big enough for them though. I could use the 2 800w bridged for each 12 sub and downgrade everything to lower subs and speakers. Everyone keeps telling me i dont need the 6.5 subs in doors, im going way overkill, and there is no point trying to split the hz to specific subs and speakers. I dont have anything except the amps, 5 farad capacitor, 0 gauge kit with 4 guage and 4 block splitter. I want to make boxes out of 1/4 inch mdf and do a 1/4 or more of fiberglass over and inside the box for a light, easy to build box that should be able to take the vibrations. Im not trying to take it to any bass competitions. Just for listening and feeling the bass flow through me when driving. I considered using subs without cones to bolt under the seats. I am considering skar but if the subs yiyve linked to are goid, i could buy an entire package from them. Hope yoy get commission.
I have two ancient Pyle New Wave subwoofers, NW1040-4. I've tried to find parameters on these speakers everywhere. I even sent email to Pyle. They are free air subwoofers, but I don't have a way to use them as free air in my van. They still sounded quite nice last time I used them, and I would like to use them again. Any thoughts?
People look down on 6.5 subs, but implemented right, theyll hit and satisfy just as well as bigger drivers. Im upgrading crappy 6.5" Bose free-air door subs in my old trailblazer, I'd like to somehow get the speaker area enclosed so that what takes their place has some chance of making quality sound. Was thinking of working with some thin gauge foam and forming some kind of bag like enclosure as to not interfere with the window glass, .25 cu ft is the min goal and im sure theres enough space to get close.
Your a big inspiration for me!, ive built a few boxes while they are not the best i poured my heart and soul into them. Your videos always make me want to build more. Keep up the amazing work!!!
Nice video , like always. I'm using the same programs. I just think you "skipped" one part or maybe you didn't wanted for the video to be too long. And you didn't show how to "translate" the box volume to actual w-l-h , or how to calcule the inner volume of the box. But thank's for all the work that you do to pass your knolage.😊
You gotta reconfigure that amp rack and use the whole backside of the cab keeping it relatively thin.....then you can fit a hugeeee box. Although that's not everyones cup of tea, and makes accessing the amps allot harder to tune. Maybe something for future videos.
im trying to tune a punisher 10d1 and for the air velocity HOLY CRAP. at least its only for the lower fs and is a pretty instant spike . i have no idea what I'm doing but have a decent amount of knowledge. love the tutorial . could you update it and make a little more in depth like do this for this and that for that or this for that etc XD either way im going to be budling this box one way or another thank you!
Due to space limitations and having four 10's I want to use, I find my answers to using an isobaric pair in a ported enclosure and that's what I'm going to do.
@DIYAudioGuy no you don't. But I can get the response and output I'm after (SQ setup) within the space limitations I have. I'm looking into and isobaric T-line enclosure a well.
@@DIYAudioGuy did you ever think of going vertical with the amps, one on each of the 3 sides or even stacked front to back? That'd give you more room for subs.
You got the error because there is a certain way you’re supposed to enter the parameters. If you open the help page (it opens on the internet) it lists how you should input things and in what order. Mms then cms then etc. etc. etc.
I use Sketchup Make 2014 because of all my fancy plugins. Please don't do a Sketchup tutorial lol, there are much easier ways to accomplish what you want. For example you don't always need to type in the size. All you needed to do was to drag the face of the component to the end of the adjacent edge instead of typing in 1.75 or whatever. But hey man, I'm not dissing on your content, I'm only trying to help. You make some really informative videos that help a lot of people and that's why I've been a subscriber for a couple years now. Cheers! Oh and one more thing, your audio is clipping. Try to maybe reduce the output of your recording.
It's a really good design, but it has me wondering why you'd use 4x 6.5" subs, you don't seem to have a backseat, why not use bigger, more efficient subs? Unless you got those for free, those little subs might be proportional in size, but they most definitely are not proportional in price.
You aren’t trying hard enough. I have a gen 4 ram too, and I have just over 4 cubes in a vented enclosure….with a fully functional back seat. You can also cut those stupid pockets out from under the back seat and make a pretty huge under seat, front facing enclosure similar to gen 5s and other truck brands.
I also built my box to spec at 32hz for the champion series 12 pioneer but im using the pioneer tsw306dvc/xl/uc and its hitting low 😂 and its hitting hard 😊 i used google to get my plans lol
Get the subs here: www.savardspeakersystems.com/?afmc=DIYAudioGuy
Use the code DIYAudio for a discount
I did my first box because of you and it turned out great. Its tuned to 20hz and the goal was to be as windy as possible with one 12 inch sub (ground zero GZRW 30-D2). Thank you for all your precious information!
Awesome!
bro got any demos that sounds sick.
Yeah for real @@EBMproductions1
Got any vids ?? We don't see GZ sub boxes very often !!
WinISD is a super powerful tool once you learn how to use it. I wanted 8’s under the back seat of my F150. Winisd showed me that 3 would give more spl than 4. They are super clean and play way low for only 3-8’s. They are Skar svr.
As always, you are bringing easy understanding to esoteric topics.
Keep on bringing as many touches, flashlights and spotlights as you can.
Thanks, will do!
Free Tip: You can simulate cutting layouts by creating a 48x96 panel, make it a group/component. Duplicate your entire project (select it all, copy and paste) then use the rotate tools to make them all flat and lay them on the 8x4 panel you made before. This can help visualise cutting and find the best cuts to minimise wastage and maximise leftovers 😊
Or just use the plug in that will do that for you.
@DIYAudioGuy Whaaaat 😲 is this a pro feature? Admittedly I use the free Web version so this may not be a luxury I get!
The help file in winisd gives specific instructions as to which t/s parameters to enter and in which order. This will help avoid getting incorrect data and warnings from the software.
Cool video. Sketchup training included 👍👍
Glad you liked it!
@@DIYAudioGuy Do you have experience in designing enclosures for home theatre? I have a situation in my living room where I'm struggling with de dimensions of the subwoofer cabinet I can put. I have roughly 180L (6.35cu.ft) outside dimensions available, but only 8 inches high, 12 inches deep and a bit short of 6ft long. Will 95% of the time be used for home theatre, not for music. The main speakers have a frequency range of 40-24kHz, but when watching movies I miss some sub. I'd be happy if I could take some of the frequency range of the main speakers and add that to a sub, so the mains don't have to work that hard.
@@MischaGielen home theater is how I got into this hobby. It's no different from any other subwoofer, it's just tuned lower.
I have a old but .75 box 10x10x28.5 inner space of sub box. It's sealed with dual pioneer ts203 8 inch subs so my only option is to buy a round port from Amazon so I can drill a hole or 2 between the subs. There are kits that can make holes for door handles and wondering if a pair of 3.5-4 inch ports would work with the length going in 8 inches? The amount of things required for calculators ask for things I have no idea about.
I've been reading about tests of gluing foam against the inside walls of the box but came across a test of lightly packed stuffing that slows the air flow little that supposedly give a deeper bass sound.
I really enjoy watching your progress with the channel, I subscribed when you first started posting because you know what youre talking about when it comes to fabrication and install!
I would love to see you do an(another) episode on enclosure bandpass orders and technical specs when brainstorming a build, I have trouble recalling the "F,Q,etc" and the implications when deciding what kind of oreder enclosure for certaIn type/application drivers. CHEERS! - From Texas
It has been a while since I have done a bandpass.
-24 with wind chill and I get to relax and watch some RUclips
BRRRR cold.
-32 wind-chill here.... Winter is great.
Yep I'm up in Toronto, Canada and we going thru a cold snap next few days. Currently it's -16⁰ Celcius (-27⁰ Celcius with windchill) so safe to say next few days I'll be doing indoor activities lol.
Great Video - Looking forward to the next one!
Top notch work brother❤
Nice. You were reading my mind. Thanks.........................
Quad 8" paper cone woofers as bass cabinets for a 3-way stereo pair. It must be tried...lol
Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊
That is a lot of cone area.
Great video Justin one question what kind of wood do you use for sub boxes.
Depends on what I am trying to do.
As he said different materials give different results per the application... but just to answer your question...... 3/4" MDF board is probably the most common and economical if youre new to the process.
Thanks Brother i appreciate your feedback. @@KevinDC5
Plug those 6.5 subs in a giant Igloo cooler, duct tape it up and make @mullinperformanceaudio5902 proud. Savard FTW!
🤣
Dunno if you have made a mistake, the design was 2x subs per box with the given port design then you've combined 2 boxes with the 2 ports into 1 outlet, I can see that you've doubled the width/area on the combined half of the port is that going to throw your calc's out isnt it?
I thought this as well. Surely the air velocity will change when it hits the larger combined port?
You have a keen eye. It should work just fine, but if it does not we will find out!
Will you run a REW sweep and compare to WinISD once done?
I just got 4 skar evl-65 and I’m curious to what you think I should do for a box in a single cab Chevrolet
What's the mounting depth on those subwoofers? Your best bet might be a box behind the seat.
@jasonWW2000 I was able to design a 2.4cu ft box for all 4 behind the seat going to try to build it tomorrow hopefully it turns out
I got the subs cheap all for 100$ 😂
I got a question about that xmax value. context: For my box and 12" driver I tuned the port much lower, 25hz. and bumped the internal volume to 2.6 ft³ - which moved the Xmax frequency lower too, trying to avoid needing infrasonic filter and trying to get more output down to 20hz - a lot of tracks I enjoy have frequencies as low as 20. and I have some nice 6x9's dealing everything above 70hz with the subs doing everything below.
Are there any disadvantages to doing this?
Really need your help! I have 2 8"s in a ported box tuned at 35-40hz. They problem is have is that I'm using the stock headunit with and audiocontrol loc and ctsounds amp. ive tried setting the lpf but i cannot completely remover mids from my signal? what do i do?
ruclips.net/video/bNauOkzdTRM/видео.html
One other question im rebuilding an opel gt and i have old sony pair 4 ch 800w, 2 ch 1000w, 2 ch 1300w amps. I want 6.5 and 6x9 component speakers 100Hz and up 800w amp, 6.5 subs in doors 40-120hz 1000w amp, hoping for 12 inch subs 20-60hz 1300w amp but box might not be big enough for them though.
I could use the 2 800w bridged for each 12 sub and downgrade everything to lower subs and speakers.
Everyone keeps telling me i dont need the 6.5 subs in doors, im going way overkill, and there is no point trying to split the hz to specific subs and speakers. I dont have anything except the amps, 5 farad capacitor, 0 gauge kit with 4 guage and 4 block splitter. I want to make boxes out of 1/4 inch mdf and do a 1/4 or more of fiberglass over and inside the box for a light, easy to build box that should be able to take the vibrations. Im not trying to take it to any bass competitions. Just for listening and feeling the bass flow through me when driving. I considered using subs without cones to bolt under the seats.
I am considering skar but if the subs yiyve linked to are goid, i could buy an entire package from them. Hope yoy get commission.
What can I fit under the factory bench seat of my 64 C10?
Could you tell me whats the best enclosure to get easily 25hz with 4 5-1/4" mini woofers, i don't mind about power, just hi-end
I have two ancient Pyle New Wave subwoofers, NW1040-4. I've tried to find parameters on these speakers everywhere. I even sent email to Pyle. They are free air subwoofers, but I don't have a way to use them as free air in my van. They still sounded quite nice last time I used them, and I would like to use them again. Any thoughts?
ruclips.net/video/6g39ScWma3U/видео.htmlsi=otJmxPAn9K3qiLCF
Do you ever do anything in the realm on PA mid cabs and subs?
I've never done anything with PA speakers.
@@DIYAudioGuy Okay cool!
Savard for Life!!!
Even better, once you get your woofer Lucas sends a base sheet of each offer. To fine tune even better.
Savard has great customer service.
People look down on 6.5 subs, but implemented right, theyll hit and satisfy just as well as bigger drivers. Im upgrading crappy 6.5" Bose free-air door subs in my old trailblazer, I'd like to somehow get the speaker area enclosed so that what takes their place has some chance of making quality sound. Was thinking of working with some thin gauge foam and forming some kind of bag like enclosure as to not interfere with the window glass, .25 cu ft is the min goal and im sure theres enough space to get close.
You could try building out some fiberglass pods.
How/why does an infrasonic filter protect your drivers?
3:40 - Metric units, or imperial forefather units.... hey you gave us a party and still use our units you must love the empire!
Your a big inspiration for me!, ive built a few boxes while they are not the best i poured my heart and soul into them. Your videos always make me want to build more. Keep up the amazing work!!!
I am glad to hear that!
Nice subwoofers
Yes they are
Nice video , like always. I'm using the same programs. I just think you "skipped" one part or maybe you didn't wanted for the video to be too long. And you didn't show how to "translate" the box volume to actual w-l-h , or how to calcule the inner volume of the box. But thank's for all the work that you do to pass your knolage.😊
Yep, cut for time. I try to keep these under 10 min, this one was over 15.
@@DIYAudioGuy When it's interesting content like this i think you can make it a little bit longer or maybe in 2 parts 😅. But , thanks again.
You gotta reconfigure that amp rack and use the whole backside of the cab keeping it relatively thin.....then you can fit a hugeeee box.
Although that's not everyones cup of tea, and makes accessing the amps allot harder to tune. Maybe something for future videos.
It is on my to-do list.
im trying to tune a punisher 10d1 and for the air velocity HOLY CRAP. at least its only for the lower fs and is a pretty instant spike . i have no idea what I'm doing but have a decent amount of knowledge. love the tutorial . could you update it and make a little more in depth like do this for this and that for that or this for that etc XD either way im going to be budling this box one way or another thank you!
also if we dont have alot of room for our port how would could u make it smaller/shorter. would it just effect the fs response?
got it figured out!
Ok good!
Due to space limitations and having four 10's I want to use, I find my answers to using an isobaric pair in a ported enclosure and that's what I'm going to do.
You don't see isobaric much these days.
@DIYAudioGuy no you don't. But I can get the response and output I'm after (SQ setup) within the space limitations I have. I'm looking into and isobaric T-line enclosure a well.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your amp install, what's the big black box?
That is just the amp rack.
@@DIYAudioGuy did you ever think of going vertical with the amps, one on each of the 3 sides or even stacked front to back? That'd give you more room for subs.
Hmm... those drivers look like a good fit for a passive radiator design...
Yes they do
my air speed velocity is 50-60m/s and you can't hear it unless your ear is close to the port
You got the error because there is a certain way you’re supposed to enter the parameters. If you open the help page (it opens on the internet) it lists how you should input things and in what order. Mms then cms then etc. etc. etc.
I typed in the DC resistance before I changed the wiring to series. It was an easy fix.
...it is your life, do what u want with it 🤣
I use Sketchup Make 2014 because of all my fancy plugins. Please don't do a Sketchup tutorial lol, there are much easier ways to accomplish what you want. For example you don't always need to type in the size. All you needed to do was to drag the face of the component to the end of the adjacent edge instead of typing in 1.75 or whatever. But hey man, I'm not dissing on your content, I'm only trying to help. You make some really informative videos that help a lot of people and that's why I've been a subscriber for a couple years now. Cheers! Oh and one more thing, your audio is clipping. Try to maybe reduce the output of your recording.
Clipping is the enemy.
And now you see why pre-fabs are so popular lol.
For sure, I have done several prefab reviews for just that reason.
It's a really good design, but it has me wondering why you'd use 4x 6.5" subs, you don't seem to have a backseat, why not use bigger, more efficient subs? Unless you got those for free, those little subs might be proportional in size, but they most definitely are not proportional in price.
Savard sent these to me, I have several videos planned over the next few months that will address that.
been using Savard since the 90s. great products all around, however.... the price points are too steep.
Old school brand that was recently resurrected.
This box designing is driving me crazy 😢 I’be changed my design 6 times now. At least I haven’t spent any money or made any wood cuts yet
It's a frustrating process.
Do you let people pay you for box design?
The algorithm missed me 🤷
The mighty algorithm. It knows all and it sees all. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
You aren’t trying hard enough. I have a gen 4 ram too, and I have just over 4 cubes in a vented enclosure….with a fully functional back seat. You can also cut those stupid pockets out from under the back seat and make a pretty huge under seat, front facing enclosure similar to gen 5s and other truck brands.
I am just getting started.
make a video about how to solve this with google bard or chatgpt, \I gues those ncan reverse engineer it
Not a bad idea!
I always liked bass box pro better
What for this window...???
Sounds like it....
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Too much nerdy science stuff you 😮
i like the savard speakers, but wont buy them due to the stupid Rap on the cone. I dont listen to or promote rap, its junk
Then get the Hi-Q or HO line.
Black paint will fix that dustcap🤔
I also built my box to spec at 32hz for the champion series 12 pioneer but im using the pioneer tsw306dvc/xl/uc and its hitting low 😂
and its hitting hard 😊 i used google to get my plans lol
Upon playing for the first time it was hitting the lows and the sub wasnt moving much or at all