You'd have to be nuts not to be taking some of that free sun out in sunny Tx. I just ordered this model today, and I hope it does well. This thing looks exactly like the Renogy Commander that I've been using in my van for the last 40 years except it says Epever. Hopefully this one works as good as the Renogy.
At the 4:55 mark are you putting 25.6a into the system from the PV and drawing 28.3a from the battery for a deficit of 2.7a ? Does the Panels and MT50 ever match the actual draw off the battery ?
Yes. Depending on what time of day it is it will usually go over what the batteries are being drawn at but since it’s PowerPoint tracking there is a delay so sometimes it will read lower but then it will put out more
It has been a while since I have left a comment for you, decent power friend nice job. You might want to look at stepping up your wire gauge ( Bit you might be really close to max size on your charge controller) I can a Renogy unit similar to yours some time ago. They do have other Shunts as well with more parallel sets over a shorter distance to help with cooling as well as increase current capability. I am so Jealous of you Texas sunshine. Here in Washington we are getting cloudy again already. Take care friend.
Thanks for sharing your video! Question for you or anyone who may know…I have 400 watts solar with Epever Tracer 4215 -40A with a 2200 watt inverter. My battery is fully charged and I’m getting slow green blinking lights from both PV and battery on the controller. I do not plan to use the system at the moment so do I need to disconnect the battery and how do I disconnect it safely? Thanks
The blinking is normal when the sun is out. Do not disconnect your battery unless you are disconnecting the solar panels first. Disconnecting the battery with solar panels connected can damage the controller. You can leave it on as it is and the battery will always be ready to go when you need it.
I have the Epever 60 amp controller. This is the second Epever controller I have had and niether one would put out more than .2 of an amp to charge my two 100 ah 12 volt Lipo batteries. I have 2 small chest deep freezers and my refigerator hooked up to a 2000 watt inverter. I have to recharge my batteries using a battery charger because there is only .2 amps coming out of the controller to the batteries. Would it be possible to see what settings you are using on your Epever before I end up having to spend more money on a third controller? Thx
Your wire size might be what is making your shunt heat up as well. The size determines the flow rate for electricity. Go get some scrap 00 or household main panel input power wire and the boat stores got your big crimp to hoop connectors. That may help your R.B.p. just off just off the flow increase Lol. Also solid is always a better conductor than braided wire. Nice setup I have the same!
For dc I've heard on different videos that you don't want to use solid, that braided was better. Not trying to say your wrong, just saying that's what's being said in wire sizing videos. Im going to have to look into it, i have plenty of house wire from 14-10, it'll save me some money if it's as good or better.
Hi Mark very interesting video and since I'm about to purchase this product on the MT 50 Screen what is the 3rd item that is controlled left to right solar , Battery and the 3rd item ? Appreciate your comment Cheers Ross Tga NZ
That 3rd item is your switched output. There is a button on the charger that turns on an auxiliary 12 volt output. It tells you how much power you are using. It only is used to run small applications up to 20 amps. If you are doing a 24 volt battery setup then the output will be 24 volts. By the way,, My name is Kevin😂
i have the 4215 40 amp do think it would hold 12 100 watt solar panels 24 v i seen that the make say 1040 watts on 24 volts and help if any own would know if be ok i have bus to tiny house rv think running 4 panels 3 set of them to have around 80 volt or should i do 3 panels 4 set that give me more amps any help if any own know thankds
You cannot get more amps by running or panels in the series or parallel. A higher voltage is always better. I have mine running at 110 V in a series. But I am still at 500 Watts.
hi kevin.just seen the power only when u need it video.im acquiring epever mppt same as in your video.on my camper van I have 100watt panel up front 3 x 30watt at rear .both have a mppt controller.front controller helps with my Waeco fridge 12v on all time.have dc to dc charger gives good charge when vw t4 2.5tdi engine on.im putting extra solar panel 50watts on top of big roof box as seems to get most sun.my 30watt panels are covered by my ladders usually as I'm a window cleaner.ive tried parallel connect with panels .went to series for now.what do you think best option?with the shading thing here in uk we need get as much sun as we can .I have 2 110ah lead acid batteries in parallel .do I nee a shunt for measuring also?I have renogy rover which has display and a mt50 on the epever tracer.the tracer like yours will be run off new 50 watt panel off roof box panel .steve
Hi Steve. I have recently connected my panels in series. It seems to be just a bit more efficient. Not a lot but I think I will keep it this way. I like having a separate meter on my inverter to show how much My inverter is using Some come with a shunt and some have a coil the wire goes through. That’s the one I like better. Not saying it’s any better it’s just easier for me to use and I like the meter that comes with it. This charge controller is a really nice one. If anything was to happen to it I would definitely buy another one just like it
@@Checkitfirst ok.i have a kreiger 1100 watt inverter in van, just use now and again .been looking at making own lifepo4 battery pack 12v.getting cheaper to make.need find out decent cells.ive made bike battery before .not sure if they like the cold though
@@stevemcgowan3017 I don’t believe they like the cold weather. I believe the battle born batteries have a built-in heater so they don’t get too cold. I am also very interested in lithium batteries. A little too pricey for me even to build
@@Checkitfirst my lead acids are working ok for now .as I’m using van at work as my daily and I’m about to install another 100 watt flexible panel on my roof box I should get extra charge power when the heatwave comes 😀
MY EPEVER TRACER 1251BN ARRIVED AND IM GOING TO USE THAT WITH A FLEXIBLE SOLAR 100 WATT PANEL ON TOP OF MY CAMPER ROOFBOX.THINKING COULD SHARE THE MT50METER I HAVE OR WILL NEED ANOTHER TEMP SENSOR TOO
Just put video up showing solar inputs from front 100watt panel on campervan 2nd one is 100watt flexible panel on roof box not quite full sun ☀️ as it’s behind me at time and we in winter of course .last reading is 30watt panels x3 that under my ladders at present .my stereo is on at present I have 3 amps in van .well I upgraded stereo to big touch screen kenwood using alpine amp under front seat 50 watts .then thought need more bass so after I won on eBay a collection of 2 kenwood power amps oldschool but powerful plus 4speakers and cables for 22£ I installed both amps as I made my own subwoofer cabinet so in the end the sound is brilliant but does soak bit of battery power up it tends to use drop about 0.3volts when stereo on
I have a 4215 BN which I had three 100 watt panels in parallel...the problem was that these panels have an optimum voltage of 18.1 which it would never reach...I rewired my panels in series last night so open voltage is 63 now but it rained all day today...I want to see if the charging is better but also I just got a fourth panel so I still have to hook two sets in series/parallel to see what the voltage winds up being and whether it yields more amps to the battery one way or the other...42 volts times 2 sets may be the best...I just thought Id mention this because the controller may work smoother one way...IDK...this is my first setup..( Im saving up for an inverter and have decided on a 24 volt one which Im going to order in a week )
I have changed my entire setup. I’m running a 24 volt setup now. My panels are in a series parallel at around 82 volts. Got a new pure sine wave inverter that’s 24 volts. Everything is working a lot better than before. I have a video of it. Go check it out 😊
Wow this was an old comment. I will go check out the new video. I have 1200 watts of panels now, and 20 marine batteries. The Aims Power inverter charger had to be rebuilt last year after trying to run a welder. I ran the same welder off of my new Winco Lil Dog generator yesterday. I can't really put any more panels out on the controller, it can take 1040 watts in, which I have had 1020 coming in last summer.
I bought the biggest marine battery that AutoZone had...I have 20 of them. I would like to have About four more. The volts are lower than lithium but they're hard to run down when there's a whole herd of them. I can run for a few days on a good charge. I check the water every 3 months, and add a bit. I got twenty for around $2200. And I have 990 amp hours at 24 volts. About 1200 if I get 4 more. That's what my inverter seems to like. I could have only gotten two battle born batteries. So I went with lead acid. They do okay if you can get enough of them.
Man I’m having the hardest time with my system. I have the epever 4215 bn tracer series I’m trying to connect to 2 X 12v LifePo4 batteries so that it runs 24v. Everythign I see shows the settings for a 12v lithium ion battery but I can’t seem to find anywhere that explains what the user settings should be on a 24v. What would I set the user settings for? Thanks in advance, I have these beautiful batteries sitting here and have not been able to use them.
@@jimmyp371 I would probably just run it in the default setting for the 24 V. I believe the built-in BMS will take care of the rest. I’m just guessing. That’s what I’m going to try. If you build your own battery, then I would absolutely recommend having all the settings. Perfect but the built-in BMS should take care of everything needed
Hi Great video would you recommend the EPever, i can buy a EPever tracer solar controller with the MT50 its just on brand new he wants $170 we are in Australia, what i have is a 300 watt fixed solar panel and 2 x 100ah AGM batteries would a 30amp or 40 amp be better as the one for sale is a 40 amp thank you
I have the Tracer4215BN, but every time I connect my inverter (800 watt peak) even without anything connected, I get the “load circuit” error. I’ve tried several inverters with the same result. Ideas?
@@lastadventurer1 It sounds like to me that you have your power inverter connected to your charge controller. Never connect your inverter to the charge controller. Inverters must always be connected directly to the battery. After saying this, do you have your inverter connected to the charge controller on the load side where the switch is you know that red button you push. You cannot connect an inverter to that load.
I have all my Components and am almost ready to wire My unit is a mppt epever 40 2 - 170 watt 19.2v panels And 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries Use is for couple days of dry camp here and there My question is Should I hook the PANELS in series to create 40 volt input to charge controller ? And what Happens to the watts do the watts double in series as well? My batteries will be hooked in parrallel and feed a 3500 watt inverter ( way over kill) Great vid some things to look out for with the fluctuations I look forward to your reply☺️
Yes your watts will double as well. The more panels you add The more watts you add. Some people get confused because in series your amps will stay the same and your voltage will rise. In parallel your voltage will stay the same and your amps will rise. If you run your panels in series you can use a slightly smaller wire to your charge controller. I prefer to stay in parallel. If you have two solar panels running series and one of them gets shaded by a leaf or a big bird poop LOL then your whole system is shut down. If you run in parallel you only lose that one panel and your other panel will continue to charge your system. I have my panels running series right now at 100 V. I am on a 24 V system. I am going to go back to a 12 V system because I do not like it. I wanted to try it and I did but I like running all my panels in parallel and staying with a 12 V system. That is just my opinion. Many will argue with me. But that’s OK
I appreciate your time sir Ok parallel it is If I may, I’ll follow up with a query or two as I set up All my wire gauges are proper or over spec. REGARDS FROM BUFFALO NY! -Scotty
@@Checkitfirst Excellent point on the series/parallel topic. It really depends on what works for you with the size and location of your system. On a related topic... do you find that the HF kit panels (amorphous) provide a more steady (be it less) flow when subjected to partial shaping and are a worthwhile addition to your solar panel setup?
@@imxploring I’m not a big fan of them anymore. Especially considering the price. I pay about 85 dollars for one 100 watt panel on Amazon. A lot less hassle also
@@boscodog4358 I am running the default settings. I have not changed any of the parameters. As of right now I am on a 24 V system. So I cannot go in there and tell you what my settings were last year because I don’t remember. I find that 24 V is much better. If you have 2 12 V batteries, I would suggest you try it. Of course you would need a 24 V power inverter.
Thank you 😊 at the time of this video I had two batteries deep cycle marine batteries from AutoZone and 3 harbor freight kits and 4 100 watt mono panels from Amazon
Thanks, i had also some strange behavior from this mppt. Under load it shows power otherwise it is charging slowly...cca 5 amps So if i have 4-5 hours of sun it doesn't charge batteries correct even if i have good weather.
I had to set mine on a boost charge for 120 minute at 29.5 V because if it hits 30 V then my stupid power inverter wants to shut off at 30 V and shut off my fridge and then kicks back on and you know what that does with compressors they draw a whole Lotta current when they get unplugged and plugged back in real quick
@@Checkitfirst Mine also the two indicators flash like this, however on pressing the button, the flash stopped, the battery indicator turn solid red. I tried a 24v battery, the battery indicator is solid green.
Hi. I believe the 50 amp you draw. Is from the battery and the MPPT. From the system point of view (asuming your inverter conection). It should be parallel system between MPPT and Battery. There for the inverter draw also equal 50% MPPT and 50% battery. The question is. When does this condition applied. Why this condition doesn't apply when you draw only 24 amp.
Si_Noop Noop. The charger is replacing what is being used. If I have let’s say a 15 amp draw off the battery then the charger will just about match it to take care of the load so the battery doesn’t have to
you have quite big power of solar coming in! thats great ;) maybe you can get out of your wind turbine something more making it from vawt to hawt? take a look at my new turbine... maybe will get some ideas how to make it work how you need...
@@Checkitfirst you will get more out of your panels by wire them in series 👍👍 Especially in cloudy days !! I wonder why you do not do it, when you a voltage max input of 150Vdc.
@@tucoremirez4859 Actually that’s not true. The only reason you run your panels in series is if you have a very long run my panels are right above the garage 8 feet from my charge controller. A watt is a watt, you cannot cheat the system LOL. I actually have my panels in series now at 83 V. It does not seem to make much difference at all
Ok I want to add that if your amps are going up under a load...your wiring is too small and with a load it's now getting forced through....under no load it's just what the cable will allow
I have a 2215BN and for the bloody life of me I cannot get it to put more than 3a into the batteries while charging, even a dead bike battery at 11.2v it will not put more than 3a while charging. have 3 200a panels in parallel on the roof, 32v at the terminals on the unit. it's driving me bonkers.
@@Checkitfirst8x 12v 36AH SLA wet cells in parallel panels are Trina TSM-200DC01A panels 200w 46voc 5.6a in parallel x3 have reset the mt50 to defaults again tonight and will see how it goes in the morning. thanks for replying :)
@@John-gm8ty are you just charging the batteries or are you putting a load on them at the same time,,? Meaning are you using the batteries at the same time you are charging them.
@@Checkitfirst well, that's the thing, with the bike battery, it was "dead flat" it should have caused the controller to pump in as many amps as it could, or at least, a lot more than 2.4. I'll throw a load on tomorrow and take some measurements down and do some testing and post up.
@@John-gm8ty When I’m just charging my bank it sets at about 8 amps and slowly goes to about 1.5 amps at 14+ volts for battery maintenance. Once I turn on the power inverter and turn on the lights and fans , The charge controller begins to put out more amperage right around the same amount that I am drawing to replace what I am using. On this particular load I am talking about it’s usually around 14 amp range. When I turn on a power tool like my tablesaw it jumps way up into the mid 20s. Once I turn everything off the amps go way down. This charge controller is designed to slow charge lead acid batteries at the 14+ volts needed to maintain batteries as they sit not being used
@@Checkitfirst I turned it all off and back on again it's settled back to a normal slow flash now , first time I seen it flash fast this morning. I looked throu the instructions no information on a fast flash.
@@David-kd7vl I was looking through my manual and didn’t see anything either. I have seen mine do that also usually in the morning and when the sun goes down when the pv voltage is lower than it can use
@@Checkitfirst interesting I live in the UK and it's cloudy today and there was a bit of sunshine this morning when it did this flashing led on the PV side. Strange.
Hey brother if you don't mind may I contact you in another way to exchange phone numbers I have several questions and I feel like you could help explain alit of this to me
@@Checkitfirst ok that's great thank you very much when I get all my stuff in I'll take pics and arrange everything to be wired I'd like pointers on what I'm doing exactly,I'm learning alot pretty fast but still not quite understanding how much DC power I'm actually using, cause when I compare what I read to actually using the system I have so far I get way more out of it then I expected or I'm just in left field lol 🤣
I will write down most of my questions and hit you up tomorrow with them, idk where ya live at I'm south Georgia but if I can ever help you out let me know I don't know much about this but i do know alot of dif things, I grew up working everyday with my father since I can remember walking, I was on the job almost every day pushing mop buckets and dif stuff to doing AC electrical to pouring concrete and running wire for the telephone company.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
thanks! 😊
Love your message in the background! Jesus saves❤️🙏❤️
😊
You'd have to be nuts not to be taking some of that free sun out in sunny Tx. I just ordered this model today, and I hope it does well. This thing looks exactly like the Renogy Commander that I've been using in my van for the last 40 years except it says Epever. Hopefully this one works as good as the Renogy.
If anything was to happen to this one I would definitely order another one. Probably the bigger one. 😊.
You definitely need to go 24v you get basically twice as much out of the same charge controller
At the 4:55 mark are you putting 25.6a into the system from the PV and drawing 28.3a from the battery for a deficit of 2.7a ? Does the Panels and MT50 ever match the actual draw off the battery ?
Yes. Depending on what time of day it is it will usually go over what the batteries are being drawn at but since it’s PowerPoint tracking there is a delay so sometimes it will read lower but then it will put out more
It has been a while since I have left a comment for you, decent power friend nice job.
You might want to look at stepping up your wire gauge ( Bit you might be really close to max size on your charge controller) I can a Renogy unit similar to yours some time ago. They do have other Shunts as well with more parallel sets over a shorter distance to help with cooling as well as increase current capability.
I am so Jealous of you Texas sunshine. Here in Washington we are getting cloudy again already.
Take care friend.
Thanks for sharing your video! Question for you or anyone who may know…I have 400 watts solar with Epever Tracer 4215 -40A with a 2200 watt inverter. My battery is fully charged and I’m getting slow green blinking lights from both PV and battery on the controller. I do not plan to use the system at the moment so do I need to disconnect the battery and how do I disconnect it safely? Thanks
The blinking is normal when the sun is out. Do not disconnect your battery unless you are disconnecting the solar panels first. Disconnecting the battery with solar panels connected can damage the controller. You can leave it on as it is and the battery will always be ready to go when you need it.
@@Checkitfirst okie dokie! Thanks so much 👍🏾
Great information and video.
I have the Epever 60 amp controller. This is the second Epever controller I have had and niether one would put out more than .2 of an amp to charge my two 100 ah 12 volt Lipo batteries. I have 2 small chest deep freezers and my refigerator hooked up to a 2000 watt inverter. I have to recharge my batteries using a battery charger because there is only .2 amps coming out of the controller to the batteries. Would it be possible to see what settings you are using on your Epever before I end up having to spend more money on a third controller? Thx
Sure. I can show you. But first,, how many watts of panels do you have and are your batteries in parallel or series
Your wire size might be what is making your shunt heat up as well. The size determines the flow rate for electricity. Go get some scrap 00 or household main panel input power wire and the boat stores got your big crimp to hoop connectors. That may help your R.B.p. just off just off the flow increase Lol. Also solid is always a better conductor than braided wire. Nice setup I have the same!
For dc I've heard on different videos that you don't want to use solid, that braided was better. Not trying to say your wrong, just saying that's what's being said in wire sizing videos. Im going to have to look into it, i have plenty of house wire from 14-10, it'll save me some money if it's as good or better.
@@checkingoutgypsymike2075 you're right. I think it has something to do with surface area of the wire. More strands, more surface area.
Hi Mark very interesting video and since I'm about to purchase this product on the MT 50 Screen what is the 3rd item that is controlled left to right solar , Battery and the 3rd item ? Appreciate your comment Cheers Ross Tga NZ
That 3rd item is your switched output. There is a button on the charger that turns on an auxiliary 12 volt output. It tells you how much power you are using. It only is used to run small applications up to 20 amps. If you are doing a 24 volt battery setup then the output will be 24 volts. By the way,, My name is Kevin😂
i have the 4215 40 amp do think it would hold 12 100 watt solar panels 24 v
i seen that the make say 1040 watts on 24 volts and help if any own would know if be ok
i have bus to tiny house rv think running 4 panels 3 set of them to have around 80 volt
or should i do 3 panels 4 set that give me more amps
any help if any own know thankds
You cannot get more amps by running or panels in the series or parallel. A higher voltage is always better. I have mine running at 110 V in a series. But I am still at 500 Watts.
hi kevin.just seen the power only when u need it video.im acquiring epever mppt same as in your video.on my camper van I have 100watt panel up front 3 x 30watt at rear .both have a mppt controller.front controller helps with my Waeco fridge 12v on all time.have dc to dc charger gives good charge when vw t4 2.5tdi engine on.im putting extra solar panel 50watts on top of big roof box as seems to get most sun.my 30watt panels are covered by my ladders usually as I'm a window cleaner.ive tried parallel connect with panels .went to series for now.what do you think best option?with the shading thing here in uk we need get as much sun as we can .I have 2 110ah lead acid batteries in parallel .do I nee a shunt for measuring also?I have renogy rover which has display and a mt50 on the epever tracer.the tracer like yours will be run off new 50 watt panel off roof box panel .steve
Hi Steve. I have recently connected my panels in series. It seems to be just a bit more efficient. Not a lot but I think I will keep it this way. I like having a separate meter on my inverter to show how much My inverter is using Some come with a shunt and some have a coil the wire goes through. That’s the one I like better. Not saying it’s any better it’s just easier for me to use and I like the meter that comes with it. This charge controller is a really nice one. If anything was to happen to it I would definitely buy another one just like it
@@Checkitfirst ok.i have a kreiger 1100 watt inverter in van, just use now and again .been looking at making own lifepo4 battery pack 12v.getting cheaper to make.need find out decent cells.ive made bike battery before .not sure if they like the cold though
@@stevemcgowan3017
I don’t believe they like the cold weather. I believe the battle born batteries have a built-in heater so they don’t get too cold. I am also very interested in lithium batteries. A little too pricey for me even to build
@@Checkitfirst my lead acids are working ok for now .as I’m using van at work as my daily and I’m about to install another 100 watt flexible panel on my roof box I should get extra charge power when the heatwave comes 😀
MY EPEVER TRACER 1251BN ARRIVED AND IM GOING TO USE THAT WITH A FLEXIBLE SOLAR 100 WATT PANEL ON TOP OF MY CAMPER ROOFBOX.THINKING COULD SHARE THE MT50METER I HAVE OR WILL NEED ANOTHER TEMP SENSOR TOO
my mt50 and temperature probe came.just watching your video again
Just put video up showing solar inputs from front 100watt panel on campervan 2nd one is 100watt flexible panel on roof box not quite full sun ☀️ as it’s behind me at time and we in winter of course .last reading is 30watt panels x3 that under my ladders at present .my stereo is on at present I have 3 amps in van .well I upgraded stereo to big touch screen kenwood using alpine amp under front seat 50 watts .then thought need more bass so after I won on eBay a collection of 2 kenwood power amps oldschool but powerful plus 4speakers and cables for 22£ I installed both amps as I made my own subwoofer cabinet so in the end the sound is brilliant but does soak bit of battery power up it tends to use drop about 0.3volts when stereo on
I have a 4215 BN which I had three 100 watt panels in parallel...the problem was that these panels have an optimum voltage of 18.1 which it would never reach...I rewired my panels in series last night so open voltage is 63 now but it rained all day today...I want to see if the charging is better but also I just got a fourth panel so I still have to hook two sets in series/parallel to see what the voltage winds up being and whether it yields more amps to the battery one way or the other...42 volts times 2 sets may be the best...I just thought Id mention this because the controller may work smoother one way...IDK...this is my first setup..( Im saving up for an inverter and have decided on a 24 volt one which Im going to order in a week )
I have changed my entire setup. I’m running a 24 volt setup now. My panels are in a series parallel at around 82 volts. Got a new pure sine wave inverter that’s 24 volts. Everything is working a lot better than before. I have a video of it. Go check it out 😊
i'm pretty sure the 4215 is 150 v. up to 40 amps in and 20 amps out. or something like that.
Wow this was an old comment. I will go check out the new video. I have 1200 watts of panels now, and 20 marine batteries. The Aims Power inverter charger had to be rebuilt last year after trying to run a welder. I ran the same welder off of my new Winco Lil Dog generator yesterday. I can't really put any more panels out on the controller, it can take 1040 watts in, which I have had 1020 coming in last summer.
@@davidpotter9462 I went to lifepo when it came time to get new batteries. i wish i had not. All I do now is babysit these things.
I bought the biggest marine battery that AutoZone had...I have 20 of them. I would like to have About four more. The volts are lower than lithium but they're hard to run down when there's a whole herd of them. I can run for a few days on a good charge. I check the water every 3 months, and add a bit. I got twenty for around $2200. And I have 990 amp hours at 24 volts. About 1200 if I get 4 more. That's what my inverter seems to like. I could have only gotten two battle born batteries. So I went with lead acid. They do okay if you can get enough of them.
Man I’m having the hardest time with my system. I have the epever 4215 bn tracer series I’m trying to connect to 2 X 12v LifePo4 batteries so that it runs 24v. Everythign I see shows the settings for a 12v lithium ion battery but I can’t seem to find anywhere that explains what the user settings should be on a 24v. What would I set the user settings for? Thanks in advance, I have these beautiful batteries sitting here and have not been able to use them.
ruclips.net/video/tl8kSrHM5dc/видео.htmlsi=61nKMIKlmCjlWNGo
I am still on lead acid batteries, but this guy is who I’m going to go to whenever I get my new batteries
@@Checkitfirst I saw that too but he talked about 12v lithium and I have 24v so I wasn’t sure how to go about the settings.
@@jimmyp371
I would probably just run it in the default setting for the 24 V. I believe the built-in BMS will take care of the rest. I’m just guessing. That’s what I’m going to try. If you build your own battery, then I would absolutely recommend having all the settings. Perfect but the built-in BMS should take care of everything needed
Hi Great video would you recommend the EPever, i can buy a EPever tracer solar controller with the MT50 its just on brand new he wants $170 we are in Australia, what i have is a 300 watt fixed solar panel and 2 x 100ah AGM batteries would a 30amp or 40 amp be better as the one for sale is a 40 amp thank you
Mine is a 30 amp. 40 would be better. I would by it.
@@Checkitfirst Thank you much appreciated
I have the Tracer4215BN, but every time I connect my inverter (800 watt peak) even without anything connected, I get the “load circuit” error. I’ve tried several inverters with the same result. Ideas?
Is it the inverter that is telling you that or is it the mt 50 that came with the charge controller
@@Checkitfirst The MT50 pops up with “load circuit” displayed on the screen, and no power to the inverter from the load terminals.
I’ve got a couple AGM batteries set up in parallel. It’s currently arranged for 12V.
@@lastadventurer1
It sounds like to me that you have your power inverter connected to your charge controller. Never connect your inverter to the charge controller. Inverters must always be connected directly to the battery. After saying this, do you have your inverter connected to the charge controller on the load side where the switch is you know that red button you push. You cannot connect an inverter to that load.
I have all my
Components and am almost ready to wire
My unit is a mppt epever 40
2 - 170 watt 19.2v panels
And 2 deep cycle 12 volt batteries
Use is for couple days of dry camp here and there
My question is
Should I hook the PANELS in series to create 40 volt input to charge controller ? And what
Happens to the watts do the watts double in series as well?
My batteries will be hooked in parrallel and feed a 3500 watt inverter ( way over kill)
Great vid some things to look out for with the fluctuations
I look forward to your reply☺️
Yes your watts will double as well. The more panels you add The more watts you add. Some people get confused because in series your amps will stay the same and your voltage will rise. In parallel your voltage will stay the same and your amps will rise. If you run your panels in series you can use a slightly smaller wire to your charge controller. I prefer to stay in parallel. If you have two solar panels running series and one of them gets shaded by a leaf or a big bird poop LOL then your whole system is shut down. If you run in parallel you only lose that one panel and your other panel will continue to charge your system. I have my panels running series right now at 100 V. I am on a 24 V system. I am going to go back to a 12 V system because I do not like it. I wanted to try it and I did but I like running all my panels in parallel and staying with a 12 V system. That is just my opinion. Many will argue with me. But that’s OK
I appreciate your time sir
Ok parallel it is
If I may, I’ll follow up with a query or two as I set up
All my wire gauges are proper or over spec.
REGARDS FROM BUFFALO NY!
-Scotty
How many panels are you running?
Iamsol8@yahoo.com
Respond directly to me so I can show you pictures if you would
Regards- scotty
@@Checkitfirst Excellent point on the series/parallel topic. It really depends on what works for you with the size and location of your system.
On a related topic... do you find that the HF kit panels (amorphous) provide a more steady (be it less) flow when subjected to partial shaping and are a worthwhile addition to your solar panel setup?
@@imxploring
I’m not a big fan of them anymore. Especially considering the price. I pay about 85 dollars for one 100 watt panel on Amazon. A lot less hassle also
Can you show your voltage settings on your S. Controller??
Probably not. But I can tell you what they are. Which perimeters are you specifically looking for and maybe I can help you
What is your charge limit V.
Over voltage reconnect
What is "Boost " charging?
What is "Float "charging?
Low V disconnect?
@@boscodog4358 I am running the default settings. I have not changed any of the parameters. As of right now I am on a 24 V system. So I cannot go in there and tell you what my settings were last year because I don’t remember. I find that 24 V is much better. If you have 2 12 V batteries, I would suggest you try it. Of course you would need a 24 V power inverter.
Very impressive sir. Can you tell me how many batteries do you have and also how many solar panels? Thanks.
Thank you 😊 at the time of this video I had two batteries deep cycle marine batteries from AutoZone and 3 harbor freight kits and 4 100 watt mono panels from Amazon
The MPPT Unit will Regulate the Solar power up to the rating of the MPPT. So if it is a 30 amp rated MPPT, then it will only provide up to 30 amps.
Yes that is correct
No it didnt quit charging ...it went from a double flash which it does once it reaches full to a single flash which is back to bulk charge charge
The shunt needs to on the negative not positive side
Thanks, i had also some strange behavior from this mppt. Under load it shows power otherwise it is charging slowly...cca 5 amps
So if i have 4-5 hours of sun it doesn't charge batteries correct even if i have good weather.
I had to set mine on a boost charge for 120 minute at 29.5 V because if it hits 30 V then my stupid power inverter wants to shut off at 30 V and shut off my fridge and then kicks back on and you know what that does with compressors they draw a whole Lotta current when they get unplugged and plugged back in real quick
is it normal for both lights to flash green ?
Yes
@@Checkitfirst Mine also the two indicators flash like this, however on pressing the button, the flash stopped, the battery indicator turn solid red. I tried a 24v battery, the battery indicator is solid green.
Hi. I believe the 50 amp you draw. Is from the battery and the MPPT. From the system point of view (asuming your inverter conection). It should be parallel system between MPPT and Battery. There for the inverter draw also equal 50% MPPT and 50% battery. The question is. When does this condition applied. Why this condition doesn't apply when you draw only 24 amp.
Si_Noop Noop. The charger is replacing what is being used. If I have let’s say a 15 amp draw off the battery then the charger will just about match it to take care of the load so the battery doesn’t have to
@@immrnoidall ?
you have quite big power of solar coming in! thats great ;) maybe you can get out of your wind turbine something more making it from vawt to hawt? take a look at my new turbine... maybe will get some ideas how to make it work how you need...
SRW Kriss. Sure!! Send me a link to the video you want me to watch
Try running in series and parallel I'm pushing 42amps w an 8 panel array
I’ll give it try this weekend. Thanks. 😊
A 40 amp controller will not allow the amps to exceed 40.
Which solar panel can delever 25A ?????
8-100 watt panels in parallel will do it on a good day. That’s how I have mine
@@Checkitfirst you will get more out of your panels by wire them in series 👍👍
Especially in cloudy days !!
I wonder why you do not do it, when you a voltage max input of 150Vdc.
@@tucoremirez4859 Actually that’s not true. The only reason you run your panels in series is if you have a very long run my panels are right above the garage 8 feet from my charge controller. A watt is a watt, you cannot cheat the system LOL. I actually have my panels in series now at 83 V. It does not seem to make much difference at all
Ok I want to add that if your amps are going up under a load...your wiring is too small and with a load it's now getting forced through....under no load it's just what the cable will allow
You don’t have a clue
I have a 2215BN and for the bloody life of me I cannot get it to put more than 3a into the batteries while charging, even a dead bike battery at 11.2v it will not put more than 3a while charging.
have 3 200a panels in parallel on the roof, 32v at the terminals on the unit.
it's driving me bonkers.
Other than the bike battery,,, what kind of battery bank do you have?
@@Checkitfirst8x 12v 36AH SLA wet cells in parallel
panels are Trina TSM-200DC01A panels 200w 46voc 5.6a in parallel x3
have reset the mt50 to defaults again tonight and will see how it goes in the morning.
thanks for replying :)
@@John-gm8ty are you just charging the batteries or are you putting a load on them at the same time,,? Meaning are you using the batteries at the same time you are charging them.
@@Checkitfirst well, that's the thing, with the bike battery, it was "dead flat" it should have caused the controller to pump in as many amps as it could, or at least, a lot more than 2.4.
I'll throw a load on tomorrow and take some measurements down and do some testing and post up.
@@John-gm8ty
When I’m just charging my bank it sets at about 8 amps and slowly goes to about 1.5 amps at 14+ volts for battery maintenance. Once I turn on the power inverter and turn on the lights and fans , The charge controller begins to put out more amperage right around the same amount that I am drawing to replace what I am using. On this particular load I am talking about it’s usually around 14 amp range. When I turn on a power tool like my tablesaw it jumps way up into the mid 20s. Once I turn everything off the amps go way down. This charge controller is designed to slow charge lead acid batteries at the 14+ volts needed to maintain batteries as they sit not being used
Any ideas why I get a fast flashing light on the PV side on my BN mppt controller any one .
What is your voltage on your pv side
@@Checkitfirst 38 Volt's
@@Checkitfirst I turned it all off and back on again it's settled back to a normal slow flash now , first time I seen it flash fast this morning. I looked throu the instructions no information on a fast flash.
@@David-kd7vl I was looking through my manual and didn’t see anything either. I have seen mine do that also usually in the morning and when the sun goes down when the pv voltage is lower than it can use
@@Checkitfirst interesting I live in the UK and it's cloudy today and there was a bit of sunshine this morning when it did this flashing led on the PV side. Strange.
I spotted a K40!
That would be correct😊
It's because your batteries are full I think.
Yes. They were full at the time of this video.
Put it on the - side
Robert Brown. What!???
Negative side
Robert Brown Put what on the negative side
The battery shunt
Robert Brown Shunts don’t go on the negative side
Hey brother if you don't mind may I contact you in another way to exchange phone numbers I have several questions and I feel like you could help explain alit of this to me
Let’s try communicating this way first if you don’t mind. If it becomes too hard then I’ll give you my email and we can exchange #s then 😊.
@@Checkitfirst ok that's great thank you very much when I get all my stuff in I'll take pics and arrange everything to be wired I'd like pointers on what I'm doing exactly,I'm learning alot pretty fast but still not quite understanding how much DC power I'm actually using, cause when I compare what I read to actually using the system I have so far I get way more out of it then I expected or I'm just in left field lol 🤣
@@flintriverkayaking7051 😁. Can’t wait to hear back from you
I will write down most of my questions and hit you up tomorrow with them, idk where ya live at I'm south Georgia but if I can ever help you out let me know I don't know much about this but i do know alot of dif things, I grew up working everyday with my father since I can remember walking, I was on the job almost every day pushing mop buckets and dif stuff to doing AC electrical to pouring concrete and running wire for the telephone company.
Hey brother I have a question if my battery has a 100 amp BMS then how do I get more amps when I can only get 100 with the battery, more batteries?