Totally true about rechargeable battery sizes! I've bought 4 sony AAs and while 3 of them are exactly the same length the remaining one is half milimeter shorter and it almost fell from the device holding clip; I had to bent the spring on that receptacle to make more pressure on the shorter one
I wish I'd seen this demo a month ago. I rebuilt several PowerBook 520c "smart" battery packs using RC car battery packs made of eight NiMH cells arranged nearly correctly for the purpose. The idea was that I would have to do a minimum of soldering. I had to cut away two cells so I could reverse the orientation for a fuse that ran from one end of six cells to the remaining two and solder them back together. I was mostly successful. I noticed some "magic smoke" released as I soldered a cell to one end of the fuse. I must have over heated the cell opening the vent. Sure enough, it tested as a shorted cell. I also ran into the problem of the new cells being a couple of millimeters longer than the original cells and had to cut away some of internal support struts from the case. That worked well enough. After replacing the cell I damaged, the battery packs worked. The memory in EMM boards on the "smart" batteries were too far gone to salvage, but they still charge up properly and discharge with nearly the same capacity as the original battery packs. Does the wide tip help with transferring heat quickly than a small tip? What temperature and solder are you using? You appear to be holding it on the tabs longer than I dared to do. I used a small tip thinking it would keep the heated area smaller and transfer less heat. I can see from your video that was a mistake I made.
The wide soldering iron tip is essential. It transfers the heat faster, with a small tip it takes so long to get the place your trying to solder hot enough that you have heated up the cell too much. The tabs on the cells I used were longer than some I have seen and wider. Even though I held the iron in place several seconds for some joints the cells themselves never got more than slightly warm. I keep my iron at 645F/345C and use 63/37 leaded solder. If you are using lead free then you temp needs to be higher.
I can't remember now if I mentioned that the newer cells have a higher discharge rate, thus a higher charge rate. You might trickle charge a NiCad at C/10 but would want to charge a NiMh of the same capacity at C/20. The old NiCad cells in these devices are typically 600ma/h while new NiMh cells are easily 2-4 times this rating. This also gives us a bit more safety factor when using the NiMh cells as our charge rate if effectively lower.
Hey Birt! Good informations, thanks! I had to rebuild some 20+ cell packs for old HP instruments. What I've found very useful is to scratch the tab's surfaces with a file before soldering. It makes the process quicker since you don't really want the cells to take too much heat. In case you need PB-gel cells (they do exist too!), the heat problem become really serious, it takes a couple of second too much with the iron and you hear the gel boiling and the cell is gone. In that case, I've resorted to use faston connectors soldered together and just slide them over the tabs. But this requires some more space of course. It's only needed for the rare PB chemistry anyway.
Hi Frank. Scratching the tab/cell is a good idea. I have done that when soldering directly to cells. The Kaypro 2000+ laptop I showed a few weeks ago uses Gates PB cells. Not sure if I will replace them with like cells or go a different route.
@@HeyBirt Well, the problem with PB cells is that they have a peculiar voltage range and charging profile. So unless you modify the charger (and discharge sense thresholds) you are forced to use PB cells. However, I've needed only one battery rebuild in 20 years on my HP-3466A that uses PB cells. So they've a decent lifespan at least.
Have you found that the faston connectors contact surface area is large enough? I considered doing something like this until I realized I didn't have room to work with.
@@EricsEdgeVideos Well, in the case of the HP=3466A multimeter, the current required from the batteries is very low and the faston size is matching the tabs perfectly on the cells I have found. Of course this method should be considered only if the cells are too easily damaged from any heat like the small D-sized Pb-gel ones.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Justin August i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Justin August DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED :O Just got access to my IG account details within roughly 40 mins by using the site. Had to pay 15$ but for sure worth the money =) Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
Battery Station in West Plains has a pretty good selection of batteries and pack sized shrink tube. Just stumbled onto your channel, looks you're up in Rolla or St James.
We have nothing like that here. Would have to travel to West Plains, Columbia, St Louis or Springfield. One of the joys of living in the middle of everywhere or nowhere depending on your point of view :)
Hey Birt!. Great video as always. I am curious about substituting rechargeable for non-rechargeable batteries (the button ones, like the CR2032 substituting some rechargeable) in motherboards. What diode would you use and how?. I would really appreciate it if you could include this in a future video.
Hi. I will try to cover that in a future video. As for the diode choice it is not really critical as the current flow, etc. is low. A 1N914, 1N4148, etc. will work.
@@HeyBirt Thank you for your reply. Will be looking for it ;-) You are amazing with the battery pack. I have to do it in my EPSON Portable Q150A and now I really know how to. Thank you for that. Stay safe!.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Totally true about rechargeable battery sizes! I've bought 4 sony AAs and while 3 of them are exactly the same length the remaining one is half milimeter shorter and it almost fell from the device holding clip; I had to bent the spring on that receptacle to make more pressure on the shorter one
I wish I'd seen this demo a month ago.
I rebuilt several PowerBook 520c "smart" battery packs using RC car battery packs made of eight NiMH cells arranged nearly correctly for the purpose. The idea was that I would have to do a minimum of soldering. I had to cut away two cells so I could reverse the orientation for a fuse that ran from one end of six cells to the remaining two and solder them back together. I was mostly successful. I noticed some "magic smoke" released as I soldered a cell to one end of the fuse. I must have over heated the cell opening the vent. Sure enough, it tested as a shorted cell. I also ran into the problem of the new cells being a couple of millimeters longer than the original cells and had to cut away some of internal support struts from the case. That worked well enough. After replacing the cell I damaged, the battery packs worked. The memory in EMM boards on the "smart" batteries were too far gone to salvage, but they still charge up properly and discharge with nearly the same capacity as the original battery packs.
Does the wide tip help with transferring heat quickly than a small tip? What temperature and solder are you using? You appear to be holding it on the tabs longer than I dared to do. I used a small tip thinking it would keep the heated area smaller and transfer less heat. I can see from your video that was a mistake I made.
The wide soldering iron tip is essential. It transfers the heat faster, with a small tip it takes so long to get the place your trying to solder hot enough that you have heated up the cell too much.
The tabs on the cells I used were longer than some I have seen and wider. Even though I held the iron in place several seconds for some joints the cells themselves never got more than slightly warm.
I keep my iron at 645F/345C and use 63/37 leaded solder. If you are using lead free then you temp needs to be higher.
@@HeyBirt Thanks! I’m learning something new with each video.
Great demo!
Thanks!
Nice to know about the (relatively safe) substitution of NiMH cells for NiCd ones.
I can't remember now if I mentioned that the newer cells have a higher discharge rate, thus a higher charge rate.
You might trickle charge a NiCad at C/10 but would want to charge a NiMh of the same capacity at C/20. The old NiCad cells in these devices are typically 600ma/h while new NiMh cells are easily 2-4 times this rating. This also gives us a bit more safety factor when using the NiMh cells as our charge rate if effectively lower.
Hey Birt! Good informations, thanks! I had to rebuild some 20+ cell packs for old HP instruments. What I've found very useful is to scratch the tab's surfaces with a file before soldering. It makes the process quicker since you don't really want the cells to take too much heat. In case you need PB-gel cells (they do exist too!), the heat problem become really serious, it takes a couple of second too much with the iron and you hear the gel boiling and the cell is gone. In that case, I've resorted to use faston connectors soldered together and just slide them over the tabs. But this requires some more space of course. It's only needed for the rare PB chemistry anyway.
Hi Frank. Scratching the tab/cell is a good idea. I have done that when soldering directly to cells. The Kaypro 2000+ laptop I showed a few weeks ago uses Gates PB cells. Not sure if I will replace them with like cells or go a different route.
@@HeyBirt Well, the problem with PB cells is that they have a peculiar voltage range and charging profile. So unless you modify the charger (and discharge sense thresholds) you are forced to use PB cells. However, I've needed only one battery rebuild in 20 years on my HP-3466A that uses PB cells. So they've a decent lifespan at least.
Have you found that the faston connectors contact surface area is large enough? I considered doing something like this until I realized I didn't have room to work with.
@@EricsEdgeVideos Well, in the case of the HP=3466A multimeter, the current required from the batteries is very low and the faston size is matching the tabs perfectly on the cells I have found. Of course this method should be considered only if the cells are too easily damaged from any heat like the small D-sized Pb-gel ones.
Great video. Looking forward to trying this with my Sharp CE-150 printer and cassette Interface.
Excellent! Always wondered how to rebuild a pack, and now I know how! Thanks!!
You are welcome. The tabbed cells make the process much easier.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any assistance you can give me!
@Jude Gary Instablaster ;)
@Justin August i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Justin August DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED :O Just got access to my IG account details within roughly 40 mins by using the site.
Had to pay 15$ but for sure worth the money =)
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
Nice work great idea to use tabbed cells
Thanks!
Do you know what the plug type is on that Epson HX-20 battery pack? I don´t have the option to reuse the old one.
Battery Station in West Plains has a pretty good selection of batteries and pack sized shrink tube. Just stumbled onto your channel, looks you're up in Rolla or St James.
We have nothing like that here. Would have to travel to West Plains, Columbia, St Louis or Springfield. One of the joys of living in the middle of everywhere or nowhere depending on your point of view :)
Hey Birt!. Great video as always. I am curious about substituting rechargeable for non-rechargeable batteries (the button ones, like the CR2032 substituting some rechargeable) in motherboards. What diode would you use and how?. I would really appreciate it if you could include this in a future video.
Hi. I will try to cover that in a future video. As for the diode choice it is not really critical as the current flow, etc. is low. A 1N914, 1N4148, etc. will work.
@@HeyBirt Thank you for your reply. Will be looking for it ;-) You are amazing with the battery pack. I have to do it in my EPSON Portable Q150A and now I really know how to. Thank you for that. Stay safe!.