im 65 and i remember uncle D saying we never had a surf report or surfline or cameras or someone to tell you how the conditions were how big it was. you just went surfing and what ever was there that day you simlply SURFED ALL DAY FOR THE LOVE NOT TO GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN BUT FOR THE LOVE OF SURFING .
Only five comments so far? From one of the most accomplished watermen we know of? So many of us have dedicated our lives to the ocean. What was so heavy for me was hearing DD speak to the PTSD of surf rescue and the price we pay for being watermen. Everyone around you is stable. Stable job, got a house good car etc. The only thing that made me/us, stable was the ocean. I have never met DD but he speaks as the wise elder with no ego. Young people please listen more, talk less. When DD, Kent B, Roger Erickson, B. Little and so many others were charging the bay in the late 80’s, I was surfing solo in the winter in the North Atlantic on the East coast and lifeguarding in the summer. I moved to So Cal in the 90’s and spent the last couple decades lifeguarding. Hearing DD speak makes me feel like I’m alright for choosing my water journey. Respect to you!
Thank you very, very much for your priceless teachings, double D . The history of your progression on the water I will value till the end of (my)time, for once I know what are exactly the steps needed to take for that kind of final " result" and will treasure it as it should be for anyone who enjoy those " crazy trains".
I love your appreciation for Paumalu, for Sunset, I absolutely love the mystery and challenge of the place, the discipline it takes. Those who have never been out there have no idea how heavy it can get.
What a masterclass interview. Thank you so much. Surf until we die! .
The best one yet but these are all great!
im 65 and i remember uncle D saying we never had a surf report or surfline or cameras or someone to tell you how the conditions were how big it was. you just went surfing and what ever was there that day you simlply SURFED ALL DAY FOR THE LOVE NOT TO GET YOUR PICTURE TAKEN BUT FOR THE LOVE OF SURFING .
Uncle Double D. living legend. I cherish our talks and its a honor to be your friend. 🙌🏼💪🏼❤🏴☠🤙🏼
Only five comments so far? From one of the most accomplished watermen we know of? So many of us have dedicated our lives to the ocean. What was so heavy for me was hearing DD speak to the PTSD of surf rescue and the price we pay for being watermen. Everyone around you is stable. Stable job, got a house good car etc. The only thing that made me/us, stable was the ocean. I have never met DD but he speaks as the wise elder with no ego. Young people please listen more, talk less. When DD, Kent B, Roger Erickson, B. Little and so many others were charging the bay in the late 80’s, I was surfing solo in the winter in the North Atlantic on the East coast and lifeguarding in the summer. I moved to So Cal in the 90’s and spent the last couple decades lifeguarding. Hearing DD speak makes me feel like I’m alright for choosing my water journey. Respect to you!
Thank you very, very much for your priceless teachings, double D .
The history of your progression on the water I will value till the end of (my)time, for once I know what are exactly the steps needed to take for that kind of final " result" and will treasure it as it should be for anyone who enjoy those " crazy trains".
Wonderful interview. I once had the pleasure too of sharing a session with the pink sail in the Canary Islans
Double, a favorite human, friend, and spirit. Always near.
I love your appreciation for Paumalu, for Sunset, I absolutely love the mystery and challenge of the place, the discipline it takes. Those who have never been out there have no idea how heavy it can get.
Thanks Jamie,so many good interviews.never disappoint
Great interview! Waterman legend!!
WOW!!!
dat buggah one fine swimmer, plus midface turns