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The Surfer's Journal
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Добавлен 8 фев 2020
The Surfer’s Journal is a vivid, authoritative, and independent print publication that delivers longform storytelling on the people, culture, travel and art of surfing. Coupled with premium construction, TSJ is peerless in its quality and content.
Subscribers to the printed magazine enjoy six issues a year as well as digital features, complete access to the magazine's archives, discounts on merchandise, back issues, fine-art prints, and hardbound books. TSJ is a surf trip found nowhere else. The Surfer's Journal on RUclips is a supplementary, motion-visual addition to our printed content.
Become a TSJ member here: www.surfersjournal.com/memberships/start-your-membership/
Subscribers to the printed magazine enjoy six issues a year as well as digital features, complete access to the magazine's archives, discounts on merchandise, back issues, fine-art prints, and hardbound books. TSJ is a surf trip found nowhere else. The Surfer's Journal on RUclips is a supplementary, motion-visual addition to our printed content.
Become a TSJ member here: www.surfersjournal.com/memberships/start-your-membership/
Darrick Doerner on Sunset Beach, Dick Brewer, Long Swims, the Drop at Waimea, and Tow Surfing
Darrick Doerner is a big-wave surfer, tow-surfing pioneer, Hollywood stuntman, and former North Shore lifeguard. He grew up surfing in the LA area in the 1960s and ’70s, moved to Hawaii his senior year of high school, and discovered himself joyous and at peace in heavy water. Hungry for waves too big to catch manually, Doerner and his pals Laird Hamilton and Buzzy Kerbox started experimenting with personal watercraft assists in the early 1990s. Not long after, they began towing into Peahi, aka Jaws. In Hollywood, Doerner stunt-doubled for Bodhi, Patrick Swayze’s character, in 1991’s "Point Break," and appeared as a stunt surfer in the 2002 James Bond film "Die Another Day."
In this episod...
In this episod...
Просмотров: 80
Видео
Arcadia | Searching for waves in Lebanon, Egypt, and Tunisia
Просмотров 86 тыс.14 дней назад
In TSJ 33.5’s “Searching for Arcadia,” Kepa Acero and photographer Marc Durà hunt surf on the Eastern and Southern Mediterranean coasts. This short film documents the waves they rode, the friends they made, and the volatile weather they encountered on their journey. For the duo’s full report from Lebanon, Tunisia, and Egypt, pick up a copy of our current issue at www.surfersjournal.com/issues/3...
Scott Hulet on Craig Stecyk, Surfing’s Literary Sensibility, Traveling, and His Book Flow Violento
Просмотров 74221 день назад
A writer and editor from San Diego, California, Scott Hulet is known throughout the surf sphere for his work with The Surfer’s Journal, which he edited from 1999 to 2019, and where he remains as its creative director. Hulet was drawn to words from a young age. At six, he was experimenting with making his own hardbound books. As a college student, Hulet became well-acquainted with the world of p...
Ryan Burch on Surfboard Design, Working With Your Hands, Traveling, and His Influences
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.Месяц назад
Hailing from Encinitas, California, Ryan Burch is a goofyfoot, a shaper, a husband, a new father, a free surfer, and a free thinker. His approach to wave-riding might be described as experimental, both in the lines he draws and the surfcraft that he rides-everything from asyms to gliders to old-school twin-keeled fishes to sawed-off chunks of raw foam. Burch shaped his first board at age 20, lo...
Robert Trujillo on Metallica, Playing Bass, and the Connection Between Surfing and Music
Просмотров 11 тыс.2 месяца назад
Robert Trujillo grew up on the westside of Los Angeles, where he found music, skateboarding, and surfing at a young age. He first rose to prominence as the bassist for Suicidal Tendencies, which he played in from 1989 to 1995. He was a member of Ozzy Osbourne’s band for a number of years starting in the late ’90s. Since 2003, he’s been the bassist for Metallica. He played-and still plays-with t...
Carissa Moore on Staying True to Herself, the Realities of Pro Surfing, and Growing Up in Waikiki
Просмотров 7892 месяца назад
Five-time world champion Carissa Moore started surfing at age 5 with her dad in the hallowed waters of Waikiki. As an amateur, she won 11 national titles. In 2008, at the age of 16, Moore became the youngest winner of the Triple Crown of Surfing. She qualified for the WCT in 2010, and won world titles in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019, and 2021, with dozens of event wins along the way. She was the firs...
Mark Cunningham on Pipeline, Bodysurfing, and His Heaviest Experiences As a North Shore Lifeguard
Просмотров 4,9 тыс.3 месяца назад
Mark Cunningham, aka "The Human Fish," is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-’70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline’s barrel. Through the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, Cunningham won nearly every bodysurfing event he entered. But, as Cunningham would be the first to ...
Harrison Roach in “Proper by Any Measure”
Просмотров 36 тыс.3 месяца назад
Roach’s surfing is mannered, refined, and unflappable. While grounded in the helmsmanship of heavy tankers, his approach also deftly ports over to all type of craft, pits, and walls. “Long before he won a world title in 2022,” Michael Adno writes in TSJ 33.3, “Harrison Roach was known as a surfer’s surfer, admired for balancing a career that was made from equal parts curiosity, creativity, and ...
Surfing is Losing it's Greatest Generation of Handshapers
Просмотров 12 тыс.3 месяца назад
Through the lens of Robin Prodanovich shaping his last board (around the 40,000th of his career), Todd Prodanovich reports on how surfing is losing its greatest generation of high-production handshapers, and what will happen to the culture and practice of building surfboards once they’re gone. “At some point in the not-too-distant future, we will be living in a world in which the greatest gener...
Karina Rozunko in “Title TK”
Просмотров 3,8 тыс.5 месяцев назад
“Spontaneity is a guiding principle of Karina Rozunko’s surfing,” author Kyle DeNuccio writes in our current issue. “At Malibu she improvises waves with maximalist energy. By contrast, most of her surfing contemporaries seem focused on paring their style down to minimalism, bordering on conservatism, with no movement wasted. Rozunko seems to approach waves without letting the traditional surf-s...
Soup Jockeys | The Finless Surfing of Jordan Rodin & Cinematography of Billy Cervi
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In TSJ 33.2’s “Soup Jockeys,” author Jamie Brisick tracks Western Australia-based finless surfer Jordan Rodin and photographer Billy Cervi’s tag team approach to making hay in the slop. From early experimentation to gaining Derek Hynd’s mentorship, the duo continues down a frictionless path. “The biggest attraction for me is not having to generate your own speed,” Rodin says. “It’s flat out fro...
"Breaking Everything" with Artist Fritz Chesnut
Просмотров 8156 месяцев назад
In TSJ 33.2’s “Impact Zone,” author Alex Weinstein profiles artist and surfer Fritz Chesnut. “On a molecular level,” Weinstein writes, “water is the ultimate generator and defiler of the work. Chesnut is there too, of course, trowel and spray can in hand, but he positions himself as both a director of and an observer to the process. On a deeper, intuitive level, the paintings are subtly cued to...
William Finnegan on Barbarian Days, Conflict Reporting, Traveling, and Finding an Audience
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay “Playing Doc’s Games” in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and “Doc” Renneker’s pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 20...
Shane Dorian on Todd Chesser and Brock Little, Brushes with Fate, and Jaws
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Shane Dorian on Todd Chesser and Brock Little, Brushes with Fate, and Jaws
Jaleesa Vincent on Taxidermy, Her Band, the Rage Gang, Airs, and Being an Outsider
Просмотров 7567 месяцев назад
Jaleesa Vincent on Taxidermy, Her Band, the Rage Gang, Airs, and Being an Outsider
Nate Tyler on Filming, Pathways to Success, Shark Encounters, and Art
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Nate Tyler on Filming, Pathways to Success, Shark Encounters, and Art
Jack McCoy on Water Cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, Resisting Repetition, and Soundtracking
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Jack McCoy on Water Cinematography, Mark Occhilupo, Resisting Repetition, and Soundtracking
Darryl “Flea” Virostko on His Nickname, Fear, His Worst Wipeout, Addiction, and Maverick’s
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Darryl “Flea” Virostko on His Nickname, Fear, His Worst Wipeout, Addiction, and Maverick’s
Aska Matsumiya on Musical Composition, Simplicity, Piano, and Taking a Year Off to Chase Surf
Просмотров 5968 месяцев назад
Aska Matsumiya on Musical Composition, Simplicity, Piano, and Taking a Year Off to Chase Surf
Gordon “Grubby” Clark on Surfboard Design, Polyurethane, and Blank Monday and the End of Clark Foam
Просмотров 6 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Gordon “Grubby” Clark on Surfboard Design, Polyurethane, and Blank Monday and the End of Clark Foam
Cliff Kapono on Science and Education, Kaiser Bowls, Environmental Activism, and Traditional Craft
Просмотров 7458 месяцев назад
Cliff Kapono on Science and Education, Kaiser Bowls, Environmental Activism, and Traditional Craft
The Steady (R)evolution of Kai Neville
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.9 месяцев назад
The Steady (R)evolution of Kai Neville
Steve Olson on Surf Devotion, Sidewalk Intimacy, the Theatrics of Style, Punk Music, and Dogtown
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Steve Olson on Surf Devotion, Sidewalk Intimacy, the Theatrics of Style, Punk Music, and Dogtown
Bob McTavish on Vee and the Plastic Machine’s "Swooping" Feeling
Просмотров 4,4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Bob McTavish on Vee and the Plastic Machine’s "Swooping" Feeling
Coco Ho on Family, The World Tour, Her Twin-fin Fascination, and Getting Waves at Backdoor
Просмотров 3,4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Coco Ho on Family, The World Tour, Her Twin-fin Fascination, and Getting Waves at Backdoor
On Style With Surf Photographer Jeff Divine
Просмотров 9609 месяцев назад
On Style With Surf Photographer Jeff Divine
Nat Young on Byron Bay, “Magic Sam,” Surfing’s Commercialization, and Crowds
Просмотров 9 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Nat Young on Byron Bay, “Magic Sam,” Surfing’s Commercialization, and Crowds
Photographer Andrew Blauschild's East End
Просмотров 10 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Photographer Andrew Blauschild's East End
Café Racer | Peruvian Surfer Miguel Tudela
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Café Racer | Peruvian Surfer Miguel Tudela
All single fins? Crazy how they can beat the section so easy kudos🙌
Waiting for part in Tunisia 🙏🙏
Unsane.
This man’s amazing. However we can work together as humans We’ve done it in our collective history through enough times. I live in New Zealand. Fences and keep out signs everywhere. We do have a great deal of conservation area but the fences line up all over this beautiful island. Crazy!
Yo tambien cierro los ojos y veo las holas
Estos son los videos que merecen la pena. Me dejo flotando
Beautiful!
Its gems like this video that remind me how good the internet can be when you find the right stuff. Thank you
All middle orient had bee atacked by israel and u.s
I've missed Kepa, thanks for having him on here. His purity of spirit is undeniable.
So nice to see such a simple loving surfing movie 🎥 In Lebanon where I stayed and discovered some of those waves. 🌊 🎉 Besos de Mexico to all the surfers in the film who are friends and acquaintances 🤠 Loved it… Can’t wait to see the rest cause there is more waves to check out in Beirut, Jounie, Batroun, Tripoli & more 🤙🏽 So chiiiiill Great Movie 🎦 Great souvenirs 🥹
Only surfing will bring peace to this region. This is truley amazing. Aloha from Israel
I loved this, it was a window to the other side of the world and a brief introduction to the people and waves there. It felt like I was on the trip with them. Thank you
Thanks for sharing this thread
🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼thanks for sharing
I am lucky enough to occasionally spend time on the beach with Kepa, he is a real gentleman and always gives off a great vibe. Thanks Surfers Journal for sharing.
Solidarity to the people of Lebanon.
Nossa, essas ondas são perfeitas
That water spout at 2:55
50 years on and Big wensday is still played on Australia's tv networks every year or so. Those critics were just inlanders 😂
I'm from Israel. This is awesome <3
Who cares if you are from a genocidal colony. Is this surf places awesome for your people to steal using American weapons paid by American taxpayer?
right on brotha, try to put in a good word when you can
@@KillTuco its real estate for those guys
Kelly's family could say: "dude, why do you make public our shit, telling about mom stressing, dad drinking" and so on. But you know what? When i hear Kelly's voice talking so calmly about this shit he has gone through, i feel everything is possible.
me alegras el dia y la vida con tus viajes Kepa
Such a great publication
Israel is attacked by hizballah iranian terror group that took over lebanon and made christians flee the country for 20 years. Sincs 7/10 fired rockets to Israel without any cause. Now that Israel fights back and wins the western life should come back to christians lebanese instead of becoming iranian proxy state preaching jihad islamist extreme
Hello. Israel illegally occupied Southern Lebanon for 15 years, which is why Hizballah was created to expel Israel. Israel occupy Gaza for 57 years. Do you think people are so stupid to believe your nonsense? The Middle East is not "Western life". Western life is where Zionists come from, i.e., Russia, USA, Europe.
Gràcies.
I loved listening to two old friends talk. Great Soundings episode Thank you
Increíble trabajo!
Increíble, no más!
What a beautiful planet we live on. So full of surprises. Never knew these places even held waves, let alone beautiful head high sweeping rights. Ready for part 2. Great video.
Dion from Temu
Beautiful film,so refreshing to see a different side of this amazing but deeply troubled region.lf its ok to ignore Indonesias shocking actions in West Papua&East Timor &support its booming surf tourism then this positive little film has its right in the sun.
Eres un máquina desde siempre!! 🙃🐶🤙🏼
Let surfers run countries. Notice in history- they started no wars, built no empires, never shot or imprisoned those who liked -different breaks ….. etc. ☮️✌️🤙😊
Eskerrik asko Kepa!
That's proper nice. A timely and touching story of connection. Thanks TSJ, people of Lebanon, Kepa and Marc🙏
Big thanks 🙏🏾
Is it acceptable to say Tom Morey was the only real genius in surfing...an aeronautical engineer...what about boogie boards revolutionised surfing....they perform in any condition....how often are high performance surfcraft needed....most surfers surf in small to mediocre conditions......what about surfboard design is bullshit....watch a kid flying in small surf on a boogie board....watch the incredibly deep tuberides boogie boarders get....just saying...
Incredible!
This is a beautiful film!
Mediterranean Waves are treasures because of their Rarity Conditions🌊
peace & love from Israel
yeah sure .
WONDERFUL!! 👍👍Thumbs up!
IF it'll be a peace in Gaza and the place will be based on tourism instead of war you should be come up over tasting the winter waves there
Great vid. That left point reminds me of La Bocana in El Salvador. Makes East Coast US look even worse, considering how fickle these breaks must be.
Feel pretty damn good calling Jug a good mate, he is the family man with great values towards people and life..... Jed Smith you did good with this one, come visit, North Bali is waiting for you to return and sink a couple of Binnies! God bless you all!
beautifull lefts... beautiful surf ... beautifull country and people
Muy bueno!
6:16 bro please location?
The overhead blue and brown wave in Lebanon is so epic 😱😱😱🔥🔥🔥🤟🏽🤟🏽🤟🏽 🇱🇧 🇱🇧 🇱🇧
Some strong beach breaks there!