I understand that it's been a while since you've posted these videos but I found them very helpful and informative. I can't seem to locate the part 2 video to making this light. I feel like most of it is self explainable except for using the multimeter to tune the booster to operate the LED at it's max potential. Could you post a link to the part 2 video or possibly write a brief description on what to do to get the booster working efficiently? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
I adjusted the wattage and voltage with my multimeter. Look at the video: ruclips.net/video/99CguBaGqR4/видео.html for information on adjusting the two.
Do you need a booster per light or will the 600 watt booster handle several lights? I read you were using two lights....was that plenty of light for gigging? I currently run a 4 light setup but looks like these LEDs are quite a bit brighter than my 200 watt standard light bulbs and much more durable. Excellent videos.
From what I have read you can have a booster that is adequate to run 2 - 100 Watt LEDs. Some of the boosters that I looked at had two leads to run several LEDs. You will need to do your own research and cost analysis. I did not want to spend nearly $100. for a large booster when I could buy two much cheaper.
can you go over more with the electronics part? particularly Vf and current with your unit?. did you consider limiter or resistor to prevent damage to led or would that hinder the booster?
Can i use the same light with green lens for night fishing ( specifically trout in texas )on a pier or jetty. I plan to have a float to push light out away from shore to cover a larger area.
+The Tackle Shop No you have to bolt down your led and I placed the paste between the aluminum angle and the heat sink. Now I was gigging and left the light out of the water and it burned up. The 100 watt led puts off an incredible amount of heat. You need to keep it in the water when using. It will heat up pretty quick out of the water.
So I built a dual light based off your design and I’ll post up a review soon. Upon testing on the water they did great for about an hour, gigged 6 flounder. Unfortunately the lights began to strobe slowly then rapidly, thought I was in a disco. Any ideas as to why?
It could be several things (only my opinion, by experience, not science) 1. failing connection. 2. Cheap Chinese LED. I’m glad you were successful in gigging flounder but sorry for the blinking LED. There are three pleasures in this process: the build, the hunt, and the meal. Be blessed!!
Outdoor Hydroponics thanks, I’ll update after experimenting. When initially turned on they went for almost an hour without strobing. After strobing I could turn them off for 5-10 minutes and then once back on they’d go for 5-10 minutes before strobing again. I figure dc booster adjustment, possible dc booster overheat(as they’re in a water proof box) or power insufficiency. Hopefully not the leds! :(
I would question power supply. Are you running several lights off one power booster? If so recheck specs, as I recall they run best at 36 v. I don’t remember the amps. They get brighter as you near the sweet spot. As I recall mine were dimmer but did not blink. Check with some you tubers who are more experienced on electronic and LED’s, they were my source when I built mine. My problem - I lifted mine out of the water when moving to a new location, it overheated and burned the center of the LED out. It is a lot of work to replace LED!!
Outdoor Hydroponics I’m running 1 booster to 1 led. So I have 2 boosters/2 leds but only using 1 battery. When the 1st led began flickering I switched it off and only used 1 light, 10-15 minutes later it started flickering to.
+Tj Lambert sorry about getting back to you so late. I built two lights and burned one up by leaving it out of the water while i was moving from one creek to another. The LED burn so hot that you have to keep them in the water. The other light has held up for over a year an still works fine.
in my other video on this light i show the ebay sites where I made the purchases. It has been several years ago so I doubt they are still valid. You will have to do your own searches I afraid. Sorry can't give you any more help.
How hot does the light get? I've been bashing my head as to what to use to seal the light and this epoxys flash point is around 300* so any issues with that? What about running the light above water?
I ran the light above the water for about 8 minutes and then it started smoking. Before I was aware it burned out the center of the LED. the Epoxy was blackened and burnt. I wondered if the heat sink was not sufficient, which may be the case. In the water there is no problem with the heat. I ran the light for several hours with no problem.
+1970browning It held up well. It is crystal clear and withstand chemicals (salt water does not affect thing embedded in it). It has a set time of an hr. which gives you time to clear the bubbles out with a torch. It is a two part epoxy but it runs so have your well sealed around the LED or it will run out of any little seam and will make a mess. I found out the hard way.
Nice job on the build. Are you running this off of a 12 or 24 volt system? You probably said in the video but I missed it. I would love to build one and try it out but I'm worried about run time on my batteries which are a 24 volt hook up for my trolling motor.
I used my boat battery that starts my boat and runs my lights. I do have a generator to charge the battery. The draw for the light requires more amps than my generator puts out on 12v side. You can run off of one battery rather than the two attached together I believe. It will run a long time on a 12v. battery. I have not timed it so can not tell you how long. I carry a generator on my boat so I can charge my battery if it gets low.
Thank you for responding. I thought I might try a 50 watt led to start with. It looks light you get a ton of light off of your 100 watt. Do you notice any problems with murky water and reflection off of the particles in the water as related to seeing fish? I had read where some folks use a soft white led or put yellow lens repair tape over their light in murky water. Sorry for so many questions but I plan on using this for bowfishing with my son as well as flounder gigging and want to get the right set up the first time. When you got your adjustment on your booster right, what kind of voltage and amperage did you settle on?
Murky water is always a problem. The light reflects of the suspended particles in the water and makes it virtually impossible to see. I have not found an answer to this problem. I usually try to gig the incoming tide when the clearer water is drawn into the inlet. As the water gets cooler it gets clearer. I have seen 50 watt LED's used and I have seen water proof LED tape used on the sides of a boat. One man I watched did very well with two tubes containing LED Tape. If you go this route get the 5050 LED tape which are brighter than the 3528. Some have put the tape up under the gunnel rails of their boat so the glare is not in their eyes but it lights up the bank on either side of the boat. This works well with a small low sided boat. The gentleman I am referring to had a 14' Hightide, which rode low in the water.
hi mate. how has the resin held up? looking at building exactly one of these in australia but heard epoxy and resin sometimes don't like each other. and have tou had issues with it going cloudy?
Mine has held up great. The epoxy is made up of two parts that must be mixed (resin and hardener). You may know this already I state it only as I was not sure what you mean by "epoxy and resin". I am not sure what you can find in Australia, I showed a picture of the brand I used. If you can not get it there then look for two qualities in the brand you look for: 1) heat resistant because the LED gets really hot. I actually burned up my first build by running it out of the water. The 100w LED gets real hot and must be in the water when you run it. 2) hardens crystal clear - some epoxies are yellowish. In mixing and pouring it check out youtubers who pour epoxy on table tops or embed stuff in table tops. You will learn tips on doing the covering of your LED. Also it is important that you make sure your dam or ridge around your LED is tight or Epoxy will run or flow out of any opening. In retrospect I wish I had sealed my aluminum box around the LED with hot glue before filling or some other substance. Let me know if you have other questions. Have good success, mate
I was ask why I put a heat sink behind my LED. The hundred watt LED runs very hot. It possibly would be cool enough underwater to run it but I was constantly picking the LED up out of the water and I needed something to keep it cool. And rightly so, one time, I pulled it up out of the water to move from one location to another and burnt the center out of the hundred watt LED. It takes a ridiculous amount of time to rebuild a burned out LED. So learn from my mistake use a heat sink but don’t run it long out of the water.
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Do you need the angle aluminum between the heat sink? Does that create better heat dissipation ?
Could you add links to the parks and materials needed please
I understand that it's been a while since you've posted these videos but I found them very helpful and informative. I can't seem to locate the part 2 video to making this light. I feel like most of it is self explainable except for using the multimeter to tune the booster to operate the LED at it's max potential. Could you post a link to the part 2 video or possibly write a brief description on what to do to get the booster working efficiently? Any help is appreciated, thanks.
I adjusted the wattage and voltage with my multimeter. Look at the video: ruclips.net/video/99CguBaGqR4/видео.html for information on adjusting the two.
thanx for the reply. just gotta find the right led chips.
What led chip can I use on 24volt battery so I don'r need a booster
Do you need a booster per light or will the 600 watt booster handle several lights? I read you were using two lights....was that plenty of light for gigging? I currently run a 4 light setup but looks like these LEDs are quite a bit brighter than my 200 watt standard light bulbs and much more durable. Excellent videos.
From what I have read you can have a booster that is adequate to run 2 - 100 Watt LEDs. Some of the boosters that I looked at had two leads to run several LEDs. You will need to do your own research and cost analysis. I did not want to spend nearly $100. for a large booster when I could buy two much cheaper.
can you go over more with the electronics part? particularly Vf and current with your unit?. did you consider limiter or resistor to prevent damage to led or would that hinder the booster?
Why do you need hestsink if the light is underwater
If you listed the items along with the links, it would benefit the video greatly.
Can i use the same light with green lens for night fishing ( specifically trout in texas )on a pier or jetty. I plan to have a float to push light out away from shore to cover a larger area.
Steve, I am not sure. Trying new things is the mother of invention. I wanted my epoxy crystal clear.
I am sure you can. It could be a lens or green cellulose film.
Is thermal paste also an adhesive.
+The Tackle Shop No you have to bolt down your led and I placed the paste between the aluminum angle and the heat sink. Now I was gigging and left the light out of the water and it burned up. The 100 watt led puts off an incredible amount of heat. You need to keep it in the water when using. It will heat up pretty quick out of the water.
No it is only a paste. The epoxy and screws hold the LED on.
do you have problems with galvanic corrosion with AL plate and steel screws?
+patrick holcomb Not yet. I may in the future.
Why not just use resin to seal in the chip?
How many 100w led chips can you run on just one of the 600w booster
The math says 3 but what I bought was cheap Chinese. The connectors were so cheap I would not try more than two. And I only ran one on each of mine.
So I built a dual light based off your design and I’ll post up a review soon. Upon testing on the water they did great for about an hour, gigged 6 flounder. Unfortunately the lights began to strobe slowly then rapidly, thought I was in a disco. Any ideas as to why?
It could be several things (only my opinion, by experience, not science) 1. failing connection. 2. Cheap Chinese LED. I’m glad you were successful in gigging flounder but sorry for the blinking LED. There are three pleasures in this process: the build, the hunt, and the meal. Be blessed!!
Outdoor Hydroponics thanks, I’ll update after experimenting. When initially turned on they went for almost an hour without strobing. After strobing I could turn them off for 5-10 minutes and then once back on they’d go for 5-10 minutes before strobing again. I figure dc booster adjustment, possible dc booster overheat(as they’re in a water proof box) or power insufficiency. Hopefully not the leds! :(
I would question power supply. Are you running several lights off one power booster? If so recheck specs, as I recall they run best at 36 v. I don’t remember the amps. They get brighter as you near the sweet spot. As I recall mine were dimmer but did not blink. Check with some you tubers who are more experienced on electronic and LED’s, they were my source when I built mine. My problem - I lifted mine out of the water when moving to a new location, it overheated and burned the center of the LED out. It is a lot of work to replace LED!!
Outdoor Hydroponics I’m running 1 booster to 1 led. So I have 2 boosters/2 leds but only using 1 battery. When the 1st led began flickering I switched it off and only used 1 light, 10-15 minutes later it started flickering to.
heat issue more likely since it is both. I have had issues with heat as well. @@sprydo12
How has the light held up? Would like to build one. I'm just wondering how it has held up before I build one.
+Tj Lambert sorry about getting back to you so late. I built two lights and burned one up by leaving it out of the water while i was moving from one creek to another. The LED burn so hot that you have to keep them in the water. The other light has held up for over a year an still works fine.
could you tell me where to buy the parts to make this?
in my other video on this light i show the ebay sites where I made the purchases. It has been several years ago so I doubt they are still valid. You will have to do your own searches I afraid. Sorry can't give you any more help.
So do you have a booster for each light or just 1 booster for both?
Sean M yes, I have a booster for each led.
Outdoor Hydroponics thanks
How hot does the light get? I've been bashing my head as to what to use to seal the light and this epoxys flash point is around 300* so any issues with that? What about running the light above water?
I ran the light above the water for about 8 minutes and then it started smoking. Before I was aware it burned out the center of the LED. the Epoxy was blackened and burnt. I wondered if the heat sink was not sufficient, which may be the case. In the water there is no problem with the heat. I ran the light for several hours with no problem.
how is the super glaze holding up?
+1970browning It held up well. It is crystal clear and withstand chemicals (salt water does not affect thing embedded in it). It has a set time of an hr. which gives you time to clear the bubbles out with a torch. It is a two part epoxy but it runs so have your well sealed around the LED or it will run out of any little seam and will make a mess. I found out the hard way.
I have run the LED under water for hours with no problems.
Nice job on the build. Are you running this off of a 12 or 24 volt system? You probably said in the video but I missed it. I would love to build one and try it out but I'm worried about run time on my batteries which are a 24 volt hook up for my trolling motor.
I used my boat battery that starts my boat and runs my lights. I do have a generator to charge the battery. The draw for the light requires more amps than my generator puts out on 12v side. You can run off of one battery rather than the two attached together I believe. It will run a long time on a 12v. battery. I have not timed it so can not tell you how long. I carry a generator on my boat so I can charge my battery if it gets low.
Thank you for responding. I thought I might try a 50 watt led to start with. It looks light you get a ton of light off of your 100 watt. Do you notice any problems with murky water and reflection off of the particles in the water as related to seeing fish? I had read where some folks use a soft white led or put yellow lens repair tape over their light in murky water. Sorry for so many questions but I plan on using this for bowfishing with my son as well as flounder gigging and want to get the right set up the first time. When you got your adjustment on your booster right, what kind of voltage and amperage did you settle on?
Murky water is always a problem. The light reflects of the suspended particles in the water and makes it virtually impossible to see. I have not found an answer to this problem. I usually try to gig the incoming tide when the clearer water is drawn into the inlet. As the water gets cooler it gets clearer.
I have seen 50 watt LED's used and I have seen water proof LED tape used on the sides of a boat. One man I watched did very well with two tubes containing LED Tape. If you go this route get the 5050 LED tape which are brighter than the 3528. Some have put the tape up under the gunnel rails of their boat so the glare is not in their eyes but it lights up the bank on either side of the boat. This works well with a small low sided boat. The gentleman I am referring to had a 14' Hightide, which rode low in the water.
hi mate. how has the resin held up? looking at building exactly one of these in australia but heard epoxy and resin sometimes don't like each other. and have tou had issues with it going cloudy?
Mine has held up great. The epoxy is made up of two parts that must be
mixed (resin and hardener). You may know this already I state it only as
I was not sure what you mean by "epoxy and resin". I am not sure what
you can find in Australia, I showed a picture of the brand I used. If
you can not get it there then look for two qualities in the brand you
look for: 1) heat resistant because the LED gets really hot. I actually
burned up my first build by running it out of the water. The 100w LED
gets real hot and must be in the water when you run it. 2) hardens
crystal clear - some epoxies are yellowish. In mixing and pouring it
check out youtubers who pour epoxy on table tops or embed stuff in table
tops. You will learn tips on doing the covering of your LED. Also it is
important that you make sure your dam or ridge around your LED is tight
or Epoxy will run or flow out of any opening. In retrospect I wish I
had sealed my aluminum box around the LED with hot glue before filling
or some other substance. Let me know if you have other questions. Have
good success, mate
where did you get the booster from
+The Tackle Shop Check my other youtube video and I give a picture of the web page I order it from.
I was ask why I put a heat sink behind my LED. The hundred watt LED runs very hot. It possibly would be cool enough underwater to run it but I was constantly picking the LED up out of the water and I needed something to keep it cool. And rightly so, one time, I pulled it up out of the water to move from one location to another and burnt the center out of the hundred watt LED. It takes a ridiculous amount of time to rebuild a burned out LED. So learn from my mistake use a heat sink but don’t run it long out of the water.
Hola cuanto cuesta y a donde vive
Nesesito una
how can i get unit you ship
+Kenny smallwood Look at my other video and you can get the web site to buy from.
Or.......Amazon
found it thanks
Nice video, but I cringe every time you say angle iron.
Do you run both lights off the same battery?
Yes, I do. But I also take a Honda generator with me.