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It has been so long ago that I don’t remember specifically. 36 volts of o remember was optimable.

Well thank you for getting back to me. I went out on a single battery that I had an it died pretty fast so I’m changing it up a little

Get the 36v chip. Should be fine.

Hola cuanto cuesta y a donde vive

Nesesito una

You don't. But don't mess up and take it out of the water 🤣

The math says 3 but what I bought was cheap Chinese. The connectors were so cheap I would not try more than two. And I only ran one on each of mine.

I use the 12 v. deep cycle battery that I have connected to my motor boat. It is nothing special. As I commented earlier I connect my honda generator to the battery so that it remains charged. I'm scared I won't be able to start the motor so I have this back up. The honda generator does not have enough amps to run the lights by itself. I hope that helps.

@@williamragsdale2097 I connected the setup to my truck battery, worked great!. I have a 12 ft Jon boat with a 6hp tohatsu tiller...a little 12v for a mower will probably work great!

It could be several things (only my opinion, by experience, not science) 1. failing connection. 2. Cheap Chinese LED. I’m glad you were successful in gigging flounder but sorry for the blinking LED. There are three pleasures in this process: the build, the hunt, and the meal. Be blessed!!

Outdoor Hydroponics thanks, I’ll update after experimenting. When initially turned on they went for almost an hour without strobing. After strobing I could turn them off for 5-10 minutes and then once back on they’d go for 5-10 minutes before strobing again. I figure dc booster adjustment, possible dc booster overheat(as they’re in a water proof box) or power insufficiency. Hopefully not the leds! :(

I would question power supply. Are you running several lights off one power booster? If so recheck specs, as I recall they run best at 36 v. I don’t remember the amps. They get brighter as you near the sweet spot. As I recall mine were dimmer but did not blink. Check with some you tubers who are more experienced on electronic and LED’s, they were my source when I built mine. My problem - I lifted mine out of the water when moving to a new location, it overheated and burned the center of the LED out. It is a lot of work to replace LED!!

Outdoor Hydroponics I’m running 1 booster to 1 led. So I have 2 boosters/2 leds but only using 1 battery. When the 1st led began flickering I switched it off and only used 1 light, 10-15 minutes later it started flickering to.

heat issue more likely since it is both. I have had issues with heat as well. @@sprydo12

Yes, I do. But I also take a Honda generator with me.

Sean M yes, I have a booster for each led.

Outdoor Hydroponics thanks

I ran the light above the water for about 8 minutes and then it started smoking. Before I was aware it burned out the center of the LED. the Epoxy was blackened and burnt. I wondered if the heat sink was not sufficient, which may be the case. In the water there is no problem with the heat. I ran the light for several hours with no problem.

Steve, I am not sure. Trying new things is the mother of invention. I wanted my epoxy crystal clear.

I am sure you can. It could be a lens or green cellulose film.

I adjusted the wattage and voltage with my multimeter. Look at the video: ruclips.net/video/99CguBaGqR4/видео.html for information on adjusting the two.

in my other video on this light i show the ebay sites where I made the purchases. It has been several years ago so I doubt they are still valid. You will have to do your own searches I afraid. Sorry can't give you any more help.

I got them off of Ebay, I think I showed the page in one of my videos. It is Chinese so no telling now with Trump tarriffs. Go to Ebay and search 100 W LED. I went cheap, It was so long ago I don't remember the price.

I had no root rot, they flourished and grew to immense size. To combat high water temperature I buried the reservoir in the ground. I used a 18 gal. plastic tub. I placed holes in the lid for outflow and return pipes, and electric chord so that I could cover it to keep out debris and sunlight. I had two problems: (1) the roots grew so prolifically that I had drains blocked and water overflowed out of tubs. (2) Evaporation. That sounds like conflicting problems. What it amounted to was I had to fill the reservoir daily. I tried to observe the possibility of overflow and deal with that. Still evaporation through heat and the plants drawing water in the heat would deplete the reservoir. That was primarily in the tomatoes where I was feeding 18 tubs with 18 gal. On my green peppers I was feeding 8 tubs with 18 Gal. and I filled that every other day to three days. This was in the heat of July and August, the April - beginning of June did not require as much. To maintain that amount of water I used 5lbs of Wonder blend and 5lbs of the nitrogen fixer and 2.5 lbs of epsom salt. If you maintain this feeding you will have tomatoes that grow 10' tall and you will have to have good suspension for them. This is a whole additional process. Be blessed in your growing of both food and soul. T.

Thank you very much, helpful and friendly response. I did sucessful indoor hydroponics with the aeroflo system and maybe try to transfer it outdoor. The reservoir in the ground is a fantastic idea, i will choose a bigger res due to your experience of evaporation. Thank you and stay healthy enough to keep doing what you love.

Thanks for the suggestion, the destructive power of the sun on chords causes me to make replacements. I am not planting this season, I've got too much going on. We do have a few plants in tubs. Sad Day!!!

Silicone potting compound

I want to make one that is fully submersible (for walking and gigging) without having to haul around a boost converter

I ran two boost converters from one 12v battery. I carried a generator so I could charge my battery. the LEDs draw minimal current. I show the components and where I bought them on a different youtube video. See ruclips.net/video/B7ro37_0RcE/видео.html

I used my boat battery that starts my boat and runs my lights. I do have a generator to charge the battery. The draw for the light requires more amps than my generator puts out on 12v side. You can run off of one battery rather than the two attached together I believe. It will run a long time on a 12v. battery. I have not timed it so can not tell you how long. I carry a generator on my boat so I can charge my battery if it gets low.

Thank you for responding. I thought I might try a 50 watt led to start with. It looks light you get a ton of light off of your 100 watt. Do you notice any problems with murky water and reflection off of the particles in the water as related to seeing fish? I had read where some folks use a soft white led or put yellow lens repair tape over their light in murky water. Sorry for so many questions but I plan on using this for bowfishing with my son as well as flounder gigging and want to get the right set up the first time. When you got your adjustment on your booster right, what kind of voltage and amperage did you settle on?

Murky water is always a problem. The light reflects of the suspended particles in the water and makes it virtually impossible to see. I have not found an answer to this problem. I usually try to gig the incoming tide when the clearer water is drawn into the inlet. As the water gets cooler it gets clearer. I have seen 50 watt LED's used and I have seen water proof LED tape used on the sides of a boat. One man I watched did very well with two tubes containing LED Tape. If you go this route get the 5050 LED tape which are brighter than the 3528. Some have put the tape up under the gunnel rails of their boat so the glare is not in their eyes but it lights up the bank on either side of the boat. This works well with a small low sided boat. The gentleman I am referring to had a 14' Hightide, which rode low in the water.

hi mate. how has the resin held up? looking at building exactly one of these in australia but heard epoxy and resin sometimes don't like each other. and have tou had issues with it going cloudy?

Mine has held up great. The epoxy is made up of two parts that must be mixed (resin and hardener). You may know this already I state it only as I was not sure what you mean by "epoxy and resin". I am not sure what you can find in Australia, I showed a picture of the brand I used. If you can not get it there then look for two qualities in the brand you look for: 1) heat resistant because the LED gets really hot. I actually burned up my first build by running it out of the water. The 100w LED gets real hot and must be in the water when you run it. 2) hardens crystal clear - some epoxies are yellowish. In mixing and pouring it check out youtubers who pour epoxy on table tops or embed stuff in table tops. You will learn tips on doing the covering of your LED. Also it is important that you make sure your dam or ridge around your LED is tight or Epoxy will run or flow out of any opening. In retrospect I wish I had sealed my aluminum box around the LED with hot glue before filling or some other substance. Let me know if you have other questions. Have good success, mate

I went on internet and googled. Most are from china. That was probably the most expensive part of the build for me. I started going to my junk yard which has a lot of aluminum, also old computers have heatsinks. I do not know the formula for the size of a heat sink for out of water usage but in the water you do no need much. You could probably get away with just using thick aluminum angle. Just don't run them long out of the water.

the tough part was finding them the right size. Most sold on the internet are off cuts from industry or shops and you can not get the exact size you want without paying a steep price. Good luck.

+William Ragsdale oh ok I gotcha thank you

They are the weak link, they are cheap. You can follow the link to ebay. I have not had a failure but I treat it like a baby. They are cheap so I feel I can replace it if needed. I looked at converters that I could plug into my generator but they were around 100. which was too rich for my blood as I was experimenting with the whole process.

Does the convertor and light get extremely hot and if so how do you deal with the convertor since it is not in the water to stay cool. I have seen people use fans. I assuming you use the light in the water based in your set up.

Yes, I made two lights as shown in the video, I did not think they got that hot but while running my boat with them out of the water the first one I built burnt up. I mean smoke coming out of it, the whole center of the LED burned black. I am sure that you can build a heat sink to handle the heat but I am no expert, I only experimented. I have found that if you run them in the water there is no problem. You will have to experiment with the lights you build to see how they operate out of the water. If you need lights for running your boat, you can get a LED light bar at a wide variety of prices. Go stick a few flounder!!!

+William Ragsdale I think the 100 watt has a lot to do with it. I'm thinking maybe lesser wattage but maybe more chips overall. I will play with it but I like the concept.

You are right, Lower wattage will mean lower heat and smaller heat sink. I have thought of having several LED positioned at different angles so that you have a wider view area. My version has almost a 180 degree viewing area but the light on the edges is not as bright.

I don't know. I ran it for 4 hours with mine.

From what I have read you can have a booster that is adequate to run 2 - 100 Watt LEDs. Some of the boosters that I looked at had two leads to run several LEDs. You will need to do your own research and cost analysis. I did not want to spend nearly $100. for a large booster when I could buy two much cheaper.

+Gavin Goleman I believe it was around 25.00. The most expensive thing was the heat sink. if you can find this it will save you quite a bit. I found that the issue was the heat dissipation. The most important thing was to keep it in the water.

+Matt J I built two lights and still use them as my go-to lights. I did burn one up, I left it out of the water as I traveled from one creek to another and the heat sink was not sufficient. The one that burned up is in the video above. If you build one, the 100 watt LED if it is given maximum power (36-40 watts, 3 amps) will get real hot and will burn up the LED and the epoxy cover. While in the water the heat is dissipated. I am not sure how to measure the amount of heat sink that is needed so I was only experimenting.

+Outdoor Hydroponics I'm building one this week only to be used under water I have epoxy resin on hand and I'm wondering why you picked the glaze over resin?

+Matt J It is Parks Super Glaze but it is a two part epoxy - it is glass clear and stands heat and chemicals. I chose it for those two reasons. I tried a 5 min epoxy but it made a lot of bubbles which I could not get rid of in the short set time. This Parks Super Glaze has a set time of about an hour and a 24 hour cure time. It gives you time to take your torch and get the bubbles out. You can see how on a number of youtube videos. It has worked great for me and has held up well. Except for the one I burned up - it does have heat limits.

+William Ragsdale Ok I'll give it a try thanks for the info and keep them videos coming!

+Tom tran if you purchase the masterblend water soluble fertilizer you will find that it has all three major elements as well as some natural minerals. You want to up the nitrogen for the growth of your fruit. May God bless you with a bountiful crop!

+Tom tran I did a video on fertilizer mix. Check out MHPgardner for an excellent video: ruclips.net/video/vYv9iu2NI3M/видео.html

+Tom tran Yes, but not bad problems. It saves you the time of filling your reservoir. If it is one rain like we had last night I am not concerned. If repeated rain I will mix more fertilizer and add to the tank. Actually rain water is better for your plants than many sources of water that we put on our plants. Hope you have a great growing season.

+Keith Ginn They work as well as a 200 watt bulb. It is a very bright light. The advantage is that you can run it off of a 12 v battery. Some of my estuaries are restricted to battery lights only, no generators. So this gives you a bright underwater light. There are other options - you can run bright LED strips along the side of your boat. Place strip LED lights under the outside rail of your boat so they will shine down on the water but not in your face. You will be able to look over both sides of your boat rails. I know some guys that do this very successfully off their battery.

Yeah I also use Leds above and below the water, just thought I might make my own from Amazon. Looks great tho!

+Keith Ginn I enjoyed our video, It gets my blood rolling to get the boat out and get a few flounder.

I got mine from Ebay, just be careful of size, they are all metric so have your mm ruler to get the size you want.