Handheld Ham Radio Battery Testing: How To Connect The Battery.

This is my method on hooking up HT batteries to a Continual Load Tester or Computer Based Analyzer. I tried the magnets as suggested in the past, but they didn't work great for my use...
Please consider sharing this with someone or hitting like if it helped...
Thanks ‪@HOAHamRadio‬ For the question:
Affiliate links (I May make a commission off the sale of items on amazon, as an Amazon partner):
Electronic Load Tester - amzn.to/48vWFix
Non Affiliate Links:
www.harborfreight.com/28-piec... (Harbor Freight Clips)
www.westmountainradio.com/pro... (CBA V )
(I used the cba v pro in the video)
If you do buy one of these CBA's from West Mountain Radio and they ask where you heard of them, please don't hesitate to mention my youtube channel. "Ham Radio Dude Sent Me", lets these companies know where you are learning of products, while giving me exposure:

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

To everyone suggesting the Back of the Battery terminals. On the H3, at least; The back side terminals (The ones a charger would connect to) read at .5v on a fully charged battery, opposed to the 8.4 volts from the terminals which connect to the battery. This is why I cannot use the original cradle for testing. K thanks.

[@JoeFramo-uw9fp]

hello ham ra 0:18 diodude you're the best ❤

[@terrym3543]

Great idea. I have two modification ideas for you. 1st, put some heat shrink tubing on the backside of the battery Gator clips. Allowing the tubing to extend past slightly so no shorting between the two clips. 2ND, add a blob of solder to the corner that you like best on each gator clip where it connects with the terminal. Or grind down approximately 1/8 of an inch on the leading edge of your Gator Clips leaving only a corner untouched.

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Great ideas, I'll roll with it! Thanks

[@HOAHamRadio]

Thanks Sean, great solution! Appreciate your sharing....

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Thanks for the question. I really wasn't happy with the answer. I gave you so wanted to ensure that I found At least a semi better solution. Take care

[@TheGeekiestGuy]

Thanks for unknowingly reminding me that I need to order some pogo pins for a few projects. As always, thanks for the content. Hopefully I can cobble together my next video soon. 🤙🏾

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Anytime :D

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

I just ordered some pogo pins (took me that long)... we'll see what we come up with :)

[@TheGeekiestGuy]

@HAMRADIODUDE Hell yeah, brother. We have printers and I'm betting your pogo pins will come in before mine. Shipping to Hawaii is always extra crazy. I look forward to whatever jig you come up with. My damn Quansheng UV-K5 FINALLY came in. And I got some meshtastic gear to show the club. Have a good one, my mans. 🤙🏾

[@nandrews8412]

Put some heat shrink on the back/unused side of the alligator clip to prevent accidents.

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Great idea! Thanks

[@mostlypostie1]

You can also get some stiff bendable wire, like from a coat hanger (or stainless from an old antenna), and create two inverted "U" pieces, one connected to +, one connected to -, and screw them down to a plastic chopping board (bend some loops for screws on one end of the "U" to make the screw attachment point secure). The battery sits on the plastic chopping board, and the two inverted "U" shape probes can be bent / moved to provide downward pressure directly on to the battery terminals. Just where you need it. Cover the U probes with heat shrink and just leave the tips exposed. Works great in a professional lab here, so it will work for you too! (A picture would speak a thousand words here, but I hope that gives you an idea. Its a lot better than the alligator clips, with a lot less chance of a short. 73

[@mariodesmo]

Have you tried soldering the wires to the battery contacts?
Another way is to gut a charge station and use that to connect the battery to your test fixture/circuit. The gutted charge station will hold the battery in place without shorting the leads.

[@Screamingtut]

Sean, you should use the two contacts on the bottom of the battery on the back. because one is negative & the other is positive. I got an H3 also but mine is black they did not have the color ones when I ordered it.

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

I've tried that method and it doesn't seem to work for me, but it may work for others

[@RobinAltoft]

A lot of times the charging terminals on the back of the batteries are tied to the output terminals on the front. It might be easier to test from those, since they are farther apart.
Oh, and maybe you could try to make big plastic clips with a 3D printer and use nails that come down vertically for the connections.

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

.5 volts on the back terminals vs 8.4 v on the front, according to my multimeter. It would be nice though, because then I could just use the cradle.

[@AlexanderGrotewohl]

if you wanted to be extra you could probably plasti-dip one side of the clip. that stuff is cool to play with anyways. dip the ends of antennas or the knob on the radio or whatever

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Now you have me thinking extra extra. 3D printing for the one side of the clip. Genius!

[@alessandroconcas]

Hi, I use a micro magnet 2 or 3 millimeter diameter and put the tester probe, for me work good, make secure connection

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

great idea. I bought something from West Mountain radio like that, and could never get the magnets to adhere correctly. I probably did something wrong and will try again! Thanks!

[@arthurbrown13]

Safety third 😅

[@JoeFramo-uw9fp]

Your beard looks good 😊

[@HAMRADIODUDE]

Thanks!

[@JoeFramo-uw9fp]

You are quite welcome Sir😊