Fixed my door per your instructions yesterday. The broken wire in our van was a little more difficult to find than in the video, but everything is working! Thanks so much!!!
Thankyou for the easy to follow video, fixed my door this morning. Power sliding door working a treat. Very happy lady.😀(noticed someone had already done this to my door twice, without solder - that has been rectified this morning!!)
Well, it's 18 below zero here at the moment, and I have three small children to transport in a Caravan that has non-functioning automatic sliding doors. In my case, the driver's side automatic door has never worked, but the right side did occasionally work (about 30% of the time). In this cold, however it's not even THINKING about working. Working against the resistance of the passenger side automatic door, my kids can't close the door manually without a GREAT amount of effort. Your tutorial was the easiest I've seen, and I'm just sitting here crossing my fingers that a repair on my van will be as straightforward as this tutorial! I might just try doing this fix myself! Thanks for posting!
Worked for me. I don't have a soldering iron, so I just twisted the wires together and secured with electrical tape. I then wrapped a little duct tape around all the wires for extra protection. We'll see how long it holds. Thanks!
This is so great, thank you, we bought our 2005 Voyager (as they call them here in Australia) used 5 years ago and the previous owner said it cost him quite a bit to get the power slider fixed so I never bothered, one mechanic looked at it for me once and couldn't even tell it was a power door so he just sprayed a whole lot of WD40 in there!! So we've lived with it for 5 years, now it's fixed in 10 minutes and I didn't even have a soldering iron, just twisted the wires together and taped it up! Should've gone straight to RUclips....
Wow -- I had actually been considering taking ours to the dealership and spending $$$$$ to get our door fixed -- but after seeing your video, I just fixed it myself in, as you said, about10 minutes -- The broken wire was almost in the exact same place as in your video -- Many many thanks for your posting -- You're awesome!
THANKS for making this video and sharing how to fix the doors. I followed exactly what you did and it worked GREAT! Our new-to-us T&C now has BOTH doors working! Thanks again!
Outstanding!! Thanks for providing an easy fix and saved me from getting the fix from a B.S. shaddy mechanic/electric tech.I wish you Success!! I'm a Subscriber 👍😊🏈
Great video! I fixed both of my doors with the help of my 10 year old. I spliced in an old lamp cord instead of soldering because the wire was so brittle. Thanks for the tutorial!
Thank you SO much for this post! I fixed mine...works perfectly now. The only snafu is that for the 2006 models, the vinyl sheathing runs the entire length of the wires, so you have to cut it away first.
I also fixed mine this way and just a few weeks later the same wire broke where I soldered it, just next to the solder joint. Wire can get very brittle. I fixed it a second time and then a different wire broke a few weeks later. Very bad design. I do see that there are non-OEM harnesses out there for around $60 - just do a Google search on "Town and Country power door wiring harness". I am not sure of the quality, but sometimes $60 might be worth the hassle if the problem just keeps happening over and over again at a high frequency rate - like I had.
I found an after-market wiring harness on sale on a prominent online retailer for about a quarter of the price he mentions in this video with free two-day shipping. The manufacturer is Dorman. I think for the hassle of trying to find the one broken wire and put the whole chain back to together, it is probably worth a couple bucks to just buy the harness. I am in agreement with not paying $240 for the harness because it is really going to fail again if you use the door a good amount.
Hopefully you are still following this. My wife and I just bought a used T and C... its a 2011 with 34000 miles on it. One of the side doors is sort of intermittent. It normally opens all the way, but wont latch open, and just recently it started to close on its own and wouldn't stop. Could a wire that's beginning to give out be the cause of this or should I look elsewhere first?
i have a question... before you repaired the broken wire, did the door lock actuator work? my power door stop working and the actuator did too. thanks.
Excellent! Thank you for the info... i have the same issue... i would suggest you stop at a Grainger store and ask for some industrial grade festoon type cable... you wont have to do it in years... also if you get some shrink tube with seal inside and place it at the bending points im sure it will last for ever... engineers are smart but never as much as they think they are cool!
OMG You are a life saver. I have searched and searched and just stumble upon this video. EXACTLY what I needed. less than 10 minutes and it works perfect again. Thanks!
I am curious in what way was the door failing? Is there a correlation between what failure mode the door is and which of the wires to focus on? I have previously spliced and obvious break and got the door working but know I have both doors malfunctioning again. * One door seems to close fine (for now), but upon opening it just pops open and stops (no motor sounds after initial opening. * The other door will almost completely shut just short about 3 inches and the Motor continues to run but the door is stuck in the 3-inch opened position. This same door from a shut position will only open to that 3-inch location and motor runs but no movement of the door. The wires "look" good.
+Jay Garbarino ... wire harness made in China or Mexico the wire insulation breaks from the opening and closing motion of the door exposing the wire to the elements until the wire breaks . .
My problem is that the door slides, but the door lock switch for the rear passenger side sliding door doesn't work, nor the remote unlock. if I manually raise the door lock then it's fine, but if it's in the down position then the door won't open automatically. I can hear it trying to unlock, I think, but it won't go up. I'm not sure what the problem is -- maybe some kind of contact or mechanical piece that's out of whack?
ebay and amazon have complete harness for less than $100 by dorman 747-310 and 747-311. he's concerned with flexibility. how flexible is a solder joint. he needs a $10 pair of wire strippers as well. if going to fix properly and last longer, it's definitely worth buying new harness.
This is all well and good, but the reason a shop would charge a bunch more than this repair costs is.. 1. putting a new harness is really the right way to fix it. 2. labor to make the repair. 3. and this is the big one. If the dealer or an independant shop made a repair and it lasted only 6-8 months as stated in your video, you would be back tearing the doors down and demanding they fix it the right way.
john, $240 was just for the part. If I wanted the dealership to install it, they would have added god knows how much labor onto that. And.... it would still break again. On a 9 year old car with 150,000 miles, why wouldn't i spend 15 minutes on a Saturday and fix it for free? If someone wants to pay to have it fixed, fine. I prefer to do it myself.
just don't make the same mistake as in the video. Put the wire that is covered with black braid back in place before installing the cover. It shouldn't be exposed like he left it...otherwise, good job.
That was a good informational video and I thank you for that but your son or whomever was the cameraman was horrible! Too busy watching you and not paying attention to filming properly. Oh well, I'm sure he learned
Fixed my door per your instructions yesterday. The broken wire in our van was a little more difficult to find than in the video, but everything is working! Thanks so much!!!
Went straight out to my door and sure enough it had a wire sticking out of that plastic track. Fixed her up thanks to you!
Had the same problem. Got a new motor, door still didn't work. Your video saved me a huge hassle., Never thought it would be the wiring.
GREAT VIDEO...my door was not working for a month and did not want to goto a dealer $$$$$$$....it was so easy and worked...thank you
Thankyou for the easy to follow video, fixed my door this morning. Power sliding door working a treat. Very happy lady.😀(noticed someone had already done this to my door twice, without solder - that has been rectified this morning!!)
Well, it's 18 below zero here at the moment, and I have three small children to transport in a Caravan that has non-functioning automatic sliding doors. In my case, the driver's side automatic door has never worked, but the right side did occasionally work (about 30% of the time). In this cold, however it's not even THINKING about working. Working against the resistance of the passenger side automatic door, my kids can't close the door manually without a GREAT amount of effort.
Your tutorial was the easiest I've seen, and I'm just sitting here crossing my fingers that a repair on my van will be as straightforward as this tutorial! I might just try doing this fix myself!
Thanks for posting!
Worked for me. I don't have a soldering iron, so I just twisted the wires together and secured with electrical tape. I then wrapped a little duct tape around all the wires for extra protection. We'll see how long it holds. Thanks!
This is so great, thank you, we bought our 2005 Voyager (as they call them here in Australia) used 5 years ago and the previous owner said it cost him quite a bit to get the power slider fixed so I never bothered, one mechanic looked at it for me once and couldn't even tell it was a power door so he just sprayed a whole lot of WD40 in there!! So we've lived with it for 5 years, now it's fixed in 10 minutes and I didn't even have a soldering iron, just twisted the wires together and taped it up! Should've gone straight to RUclips....
I was wondering if I could just do that!!
Wow -- I had actually been considering taking ours to the dealership and spending $$$$$ to get our door fixed -- but after seeing your video, I just fixed it myself in, as you said, about10 minutes -- The broken wire was almost in the exact same place as in your video -- Many many thanks for your posting -- You're awesome!
$240 for that little harness...boy Chrysler sure is proud of that one...thanks for the tip!!!!!
THANKS for making this video and sharing how to fix the doors. I followed exactly what you did and it worked GREAT! Our new-to-us T&C now has BOTH doors working! Thanks again!
Where do you get the extra piece of wire to bridge the gap for soldering? What is it called so I can know what to purchase? Thanks in advance!
Outstanding!! Thanks for providing an easy fix and saved me from getting the fix from a B.S. shaddy mechanic/electric tech.I wish you Success!!
I'm a Subscriber 👍😊🏈
After watching Your video, i fixed my broken doors by myself no longer than in 15 minutes!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! :)
Great video. Saw it and went to work on my door right away. It's now FIXED! Thank you.
Thanks for this valuable info....fixed my 2005 Grand Caravan this morning. Took about 20 minutes.....again thanks!!
Great video! I fixed both of my doors with the help of my 10 year old. I spliced in an old lamp cord instead of soldering because the wire was so brittle. Thanks for the tutorial!
Lamp cord?
Thank you so much working great took me longer to run to the store and buy the splice couplers than it did to actually fix it. Thx again. The
Thank you SO much for this post! I fixed mine...works perfectly now. The only snafu is that for the 2006 models, the vinyl sheathing runs the entire length of the wires, so you have to cut it away first.
instablaster
Thanks for posting! I have paid the 240 in the past and now with this knowledge I'm sure that 240 will stay in my pocket. Great Job!
I also fixed mine this way and just a few weeks later the same wire broke where I soldered it, just next to the solder joint. Wire can get very brittle. I fixed it a second time and then a different wire broke a few weeks later. Very bad design. I do see that there are non-OEM harnesses out there for around $60 - just do a Google search on "Town and Country power door wiring harness". I am not sure of the quality, but sometimes $60 might be worth the hassle if the problem just keeps happening over and over again at a high frequency rate - like I had.
I found an after-market wiring harness on sale on a prominent online retailer for about a quarter of the price he mentions in this video with free two-day shipping. The manufacturer is Dorman. I think for the hassle of trying to find the one broken wire and put the whole chain back to together, it is probably worth a couple bucks to just buy the harness. I am in agreement with not paying $240 for the harness because it is really going to fail again if you use the door a good amount.
I have a 2004 model tried this fix door works like a charm. Thanks
Perfect! Thanks a lot for taking the time to share this info so clearly.
Hopefully you are still following this. My wife and I just bought a used T and C... its a 2011 with 34000 miles on it. One of the side doors is sort of intermittent. It normally opens all the way, but wont latch open, and just recently it started to close on its own and wouldn't stop. Could a wire that's beginning to give out be the cause of this or should I look elsewhere first?
You needed to tuck the cable back in under the plastic cover to protect it,,,then put the two screws back in.
i have a question... before you repaired the broken wire, did the door lock actuator work? my power door stop working and the actuator did too. thanks.
Thanks for the video, I noticed you forgot to replace the wire harness back in its place before you replaced the cap piece, or was that on purpose?
Must be warm, I hear the birds/ crickets chirping..
Excellent! Thank you for the info... i have the same issue... i would suggest you stop at a Grainger store and ask for some industrial grade festoon type cable... you wont have to do it in years... also if you get some shrink tube with seal inside and place it at the bending points im sure it will last for ever... engineers are smart but never as much as they think they are cool!
Thank you. You are pretty quick with your hands and fix to be "not an expert" as you say in the video.
My sliding doors don't work either. Additionally, the electric door locks don't work on the two sliding doors. Would this be for the same reason?
OMG You are a life saver. I have searched and searched and just stumble upon this video. EXACTLY what I needed. less than 10 minutes and it works perfect again. Thanks!
Can you tell me how to get to the other plug on the wiring harness--looks like it goes under moulding forward of the door?
I am curious in what way was the door failing?
Is there a correlation between what failure mode the door is and which of the wires to focus on? I have previously spliced and obvious break and got the door working but know I have both doors malfunctioning again.
* One door seems to close fine (for now), but upon opening it just pops open and stops (no motor sounds after initial opening.
* The other door will almost completely shut just short about 3 inches and the Motor continues to run but the door is stuck in the 3-inch opened position. This same door from a shut position will only open to that 3-inch location and motor runs but no movement of the door. The wires "look" good.
+Jay Garbarino ... wire harness made in China or Mexico the wire insulation breaks from the opening and closing motion of the door exposing the wire to the elements until the wire breaks . .
Thank you. Most helpful!
you forgot to put the wire back under the cap then the cap
My problem is that the door slides, but the door lock switch for the rear passenger side sliding door doesn't work, nor the remote unlock. if I manually raise the door lock then it's fine, but if it's in the down position then the door won't open automatically. I can hear it trying to unlock, I think, but it won't go up. I'm not sure what the problem is -- maybe some kind of contact or mechanical piece that's out of whack?
that's the lock actuator.
ebay and amazon have complete harness for less than $100 by dorman 747-310 and 747-311. he's concerned with flexibility. how flexible is a solder joint. he needs a $10 pair of wire strippers as well. if going to fix properly and last longer, it's definitely worth buying new harness.
Thanks a lot just got a van and both are not working, going to try this.
Rhonda Hall did this work for u?
Como se llama la cadena que protege los cables
Shrink wrap is the way to go when you cover wires
only thing different would be to use flux and use a shrink tube
This is all well and good, but the reason a shop would charge a bunch more than this repair costs is..
1. putting a new harness is really the right way to fix it.
2. labor to make the repair.
3. and this is the big one. If the dealer or an independant shop made a repair and it lasted only 6-8 months as stated in your video, you would be back tearing the doors down and demanding they fix it the right way.
john, $240 was just for the part. If I wanted the dealership to install it, they would have added god knows how much labor onto that. And.... it would still break again. On a 9 year old car with 150,000 miles, why wouldn't i spend 15 minutes on a Saturday and fix it for free? If someone wants to pay to have it fixed, fine. I prefer to do it myself.
Does anyone know how to adjust manual sliding door on a 2007 town and country van
they work as manual doors still
Thank you, thank you, thank you........
Thank you
mine opens but not all the way
just don't make the same mistake as in the video. Put the wire that is covered with black braid back in place before installing the cover. It shouldn't be exposed like he left it...otherwise, good job.
the harnas had to be tucked above a bracket bottom of door...but thanks for the video
That was a good informational video and I thank you for that but your son or whomever was the cameraman was horrible! Too busy watching you and not paying attention to filming properly. Oh well, I'm sure he learned