Add full Extension Undermount Drawer Slides to Cheap Center Slide Kitchen Cabinets. Huge Upgrade!
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- Опубликовано: 28 янв 2020
- Convert cheap cabinets from terrible center slides to full extension, soft close undermount slides. You aren't stuck with poor quality center slides that don't open the drawer fully, never track correctly, and break, dumping everything on the floor. And, no more having to slam the drawer to get it to shut.
Essential upgrade for the Uncharted DIY "Countertop Extension Project" • DIY countertop extensi... , so you can access the drawers when the countertop extensions are installed.
Links to the items used in this video:
Under-mount Soft Close Full Extension Drawer Slides: amzn.to/3l6SyB2
Oscillating Multi-tool: amzn.to/3dOQhXp
24V Brushless Cordless 1/2" Drill: amzn.to/3ePH7v0
24V Brushless Cordless Drill and Impact Driver Kit (if you need both, this combo is a great deal): amzn.to/2AoiCWQ
If you found this video helpful, please Like, Comment, Subscribe and Share! And, if you have ideas, questions, comments, or images of YOUR project, you can post them on the Uncharted DIY article page at uncharteddiy.com/full-extensi...
See UnchartedDIY.com for more how-to information, videos, details and links to resources.
Intro music by monkeyman535, freesound.org/s/466981/
If you purchase from one of the provided product links, Uncharted DIY may receive a small commission at no cost to you. 
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Awesome !!! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are the only one who I could find that explained how to do this with an existing drawer, without having to build a new one. Thank you!!!!
After a long search of how to add a drawer, your video explained how to solve the drawer riddle. I’m adding a drawer to a blanking plate. This will be very helpful. Link for smooth rails is great. Nice price for much needed functionality. 3-14-24. Happy pi day😊
Thank you!!!
I'm glad it helped you, and happy pi day to you too!
Finally! This is about the 9th video I've watched, trying to find one that comes close to matching my problem. My house was built in the early 1950s, and the crappy kitchen drawers have NO slides. They wiggle from side-to-side as they travel across a center supporting piece of wood (I hesitate to call it a rail) that runs from the back to the front of the drawer housing. There is no routed channel on the bottom of the drawers to indicate that a sliding system was ever intended. There's no room to add slides and, unless the I win the lottery, I won't be replacing the cabinets and drawers.
Not sure I have the skills to do what you did in this video, but at least you weren't showing us how to fix the problem while standing in your fully outfitted wood shop surrounded by table saws, routers, drill presses and other equipment most people don't have.
I do have all those tools, but I like to show how things can be done even if you don't have fancy equipment!
Those drawers sound pretty bad, but you could try doing just one to see how much work it will be before committing to a big job. Just remember to have fun with DIY projects!
@@UnchartedDIY >>Just remember to have fun with DIY projects!
Ouch!@@eponymousIme
I think I’ll be facing the same issue, this is the best cabinet video I’ve seen thus far.
Thanks! It is so worth doing!
I have a cabinet like that that I am converting to all drawers. 27" face frame cabinet. I cut the center post out that separated the top drawers and my husband helped me install the new, full extension, and so delightful 23" wide drawer. (my arms don't extend 22" :D ) But I used side mount slides. Getting ready to do the other two drawers where the doors are currently. I will cut out the center post, add a 1.5" wide rail for stability and separation, then install the drawers. There is also a half shelf in there currently I am leaving for cabinet stability. I will just install the middle drawer slightly above.
I am making the drawer fronts nearly full overlay. I am doing this to the 27" cabinet and a 30" cabinet. I am basically refitting all my lower cabinets in a similar manner.
On another smaller cabinet that is 4 drawers only 15" wide with 11" wide drawers- I am replacing the drawers that are only 18" in length to be a full ext 22". But the space is so small to reach back in there- I am wondering if there's a long screw gun attachment to install the slides.
Also I am doing a garbage pullout on my peninsula cabinet and I will have to use the undermount slide and your video is so inspiring because I have to do all kinds of tricky mods to get what I want.
Also you tell the clearance on the sides for the undermount slide which I haven't been able to find. And I didn't understand the rear engagement and the front piece engagement till you showed it in action. Even though I am not doing your specific type install, this was so helpful in my application.
That sounds like a major improvement, Lori! If you are like me, you'll smile every time you open a drawer!
I have a flexible extension for my drill driver that adds about 10 or 11 inches. I also have a 90 degree attachment that allow me to use my drill or impact driver in some otherwise impossible spaces. I found one that has both the flexible part and the right angle here: amzn.to/3UAqBUQ
I've not used that one, but it seems well reviewed. I think I'll be picking one up too!
Thanks for watching, and have fun with your awesome project!
Thanks for showing this video in a kitchen cabinet with a existing drawer. Great job.
I hope it helped. It's a great upgrade!
Thank you for showing how to do this without making new boxes! Awesome.
You are welcome, JD!
Exactly the upgrade tips I was looking for. I have the same older single rail slides and they are horrible. Thank you for sharing.
I hope it helps you, Ryan. Every time I use the drawers, I'm still amazed what a nice upgrade this is!
Thanks for the great explanation. I have similar drawers and I didn't think an upgrade to full extension was possible until I saw your video.
You are welcome, Eric! I wasn't sure they could be upgraded either, but I sure am happy with how they turned out.
Awesome and helpful video. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback. So glad it helped!
best one..I could not find a single video that shows how to convert old cabinets to full extension.
Glad it helped! It's such a worthwhile upgrade.
I have some drawers crappier than those, and I didn't know these things even existed. Awesome solution.
Thanks Bob! Even now, after all the time since I made this upgrade, I am so pleased everytime I open a drawer! I highly recommend doing this.
P.S. I didn't think crappier drawers existed!
Superb video thank you so much for sharing
I'm so glad you found it helpful!
EXACTLY what I was looking for! We have been flipping our kitchen painted and reused our cabinets inside and out. We’ve got the same problem and they SQUEAL when opening/ closing. Thanks for the info!
So glad it helped!
This is EXACTLY what I’m looking for
So happy you found it!
nice video
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it and hope it helps you. It's a great upgrade!
Hey, thanks for the video we are facing a similar issue with not having enough space on the sides and will need to cut out 1/4 on each side. You said you used a multi tool for that, but I was not quite sure what you meant by that. Would you mind possibly explaining that part in a little more detail? Thanks!
Thanks for asking Greg. I'm referring to an oscillating multitool which made quick work of those drawer openings. I have a short video that explains what the multitool is used for, and a free PDF with tips for using one. The link for the PDF is below the multitool video here: ruclips.net/video/carBswRL9ss/видео.html
Let me know if that answers your questions, otherwise I'm happy to answer any others you might have.
@@UnchartedDIY awesome thanks!
Could the glides be mounted behind the face frame, so a notch would not have to be cut?
That's a great question, Iron & Oak. That might work if spacers were made for the bottoms of the drawers so the track connectors could be shifted backward to account for the thickness of the face frame. Otherwise, the soft close feature might not work.
Of course, supports would also be needed along the sides of the in-cabinet rails.
So, I do think it could be done, and although it might be more complicated to install, it would avoid cutting into the cabinets.
If you try it that way, I'd love to know how it goes. Thanks for watching Uncharted DIY!
What kind of slides where they, the Blum?
Thanks for asking. I used CSH slides from Home Depot: 21 in. Soft Close Full Extension Undermount Drawer Slides Kit. I was able to do 5 drawers for under $100! I've been really happy with them. There is a link to them, along with more detail on my web page for this project at uncharteddiy.com/full-extension-drawer-slides/
I'm trying to figure out what the height of the drawer needs to be for a 4 inch opening. The drawing shows the drawer height at 20 or 13/16.
Thank you
Thanks for asking, Deandkd D. That graphic came from the installation instructions that came with the slides, and it's confusing to me too. The measurement you need is the "Min. top clearance" at 6mm or 1/4". So, the maximum height for the drawer body to fit a 4 inch opening is 3-3/4 inches. Hope that helps!
What is the brand of these undermount door slides? Thank you Gene
Thanks for asking Gene. I don't have access to look them up at the moment, but if you go to uncharteddiy.com/full-extension-drawer-slides/ I have links to the ones I bought on the article page. Lower in the page you'll find "Resources" and they'll be there.
My drawers have flat bottoms so is there a way to make these drawer slides work?
Great question, Rita! I can't think of any reason they wouldn't work. The rails that mount to the bottom of the drawer would probably need to be moved in from the sides of the drawer so they engage with the slides, but that would be simple to do.
Just what i was looking for, all other vids are bulding drawers, this video answers two questions, i have one othet problem i ran into , the bottom sides of the drawer where it sits on the rail is to thick about 1/8" , i am going to use a router to thin them out, do you think this would be ok or do you have a better solution. Thanks
I think routing them would work, or a planer might allow you to shave them down a pass at a time. Just make sure your thinning doesn't get too close to the slots where the drawer bottom is held in by the sides.
My drawers use 3/4” material. All of the undermount slides I can find say 5/8” is the largest they accommodate. Can these work? Does anyone have any suggestions other than building new drawers?
That's a tough one, Z. You might be able to use a router to remove 1/8" off the inside edge of the side panels to accommodate the rail that fits on the drawer. Otherwise, you could make spacers inside the cabinet to switch to side mount slides, but that amount of work might approach that of building new drawers. Another option might be to purchase new drawer carcasses and put your existing drawers fronts on those. There are companies on the web that specialize in inexpensive, custom-sized drawers. I'd love to hear how you end up solving this.
Thanks for demonstrating what you’ve done! A question - on the drawer I am retrofitting, the sides end flush with the drawer bottom. They bottom isn’t inset into the sides. Does that affect mounting the under mount slides at all?
I'm sorry to say that I don't think undermount slides will work without the recess. The tops of the slides (that sit against the drawer bottom) are 1-1/16" above the bottom of the drawer opening. Without the recessed bottom these slides would raise the drawer up the full 1-1/16", so unless you have that much clearance between the top of the drawer sides and the top of the drawer opening, there wouldn't be room for the drawer. Also, it would raise the drawer front up too.
I think the best bet would be to use side-mount full extension slides if they will fit your cabinets. The slides would be visible when the drawer is open, but that's simply cosmetic and no one sees them when the drawers are shut What counts is being able to open the drawers fully and without effort! 😀
I'd love to hear what you end up doing, and good luck with your project. It's so worth it if it can be done!
@@UnchartedDIY Thanks for your helpful reply. We don’t have that much clearance in the drawer opening vertically.
Unfortunately, we have even less room on the sides of the drawer opening (1/8” total), so I don’t think side-mounts will work either. I may need to rebuild the drawer.
@@neb39 That would probably less work than trying to modify the cabinets ☹ However, you'd have drawers you'll be proud of every time you open them!
concern with where those clips for the front attach - bottom is only 1/4" thick - or do they go to the face? and what length is going to back of cabinet
The thickness of the bottom panels were only 1/4" on my drawers too. The rail locking clips can attach to the face if there is enough depth between the bottom panel and the bottom of the drawer sides, but mine were quite shallow. Instead, I screwed the clips directly to the bottom panel using very short screws. They were just long enough to attach the clips without poking through the bottom panel, and they have held up great. The slides did not come with any screws included, which seems to be typical for all the slides I looked at.
The part of the slide that the drawer itself rides on will vary, so you'll need to measure your drawer to determine the closest length so you order the most appropriate slides. My drawer length fell between two sizes, so I ordered the larger size and made those adapter blocks so the drawer would engage the metal locator tabs that hold the drawer down onto the slides. The slide brackets are long enough to easily reach the back of standard depth cabinets at 24" regardless of the slide length.
The instructions for the ones I used are here: images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/0e/0ec66de3-b31e-4dc4-b6d1-31e362c69123.pdf
I hope that helps, Mike!
Thank you for this video! My drawers measure 18in but the cabinet depth is 23in. Do you suggest I buy slides based on the drawer or cabinet measurement? It looks like you based yours on the cabinet and that’s why you have the blocks of wood installed, is that correct?
Great question! I bought them based on the drawer length, but the depth of mine were in-between available sizes, so I went with the next size up. That way I would have to cut into the drawer. The blocks took care of the extra slide length. The depth of most cabinets are standard at 23 to 24 like yours, so the slide mounts are long enough to reach the back.
@@UnchartedDIY oh I see now. Thank you so much for your help! It’s very much appreciated.
Happy to help!
where did you get these full extension slides? Do they come in 22 1/2 inch depth?
Hi Jim, in the description there's a link to the ones I bought. I'm not sure about that length.
What if I have a wood t rocker in my kitchen!
You might need to remove the T-track, but it should be pretty similar to the center slide I showed.
I am looking to do the same thing on some drawers for my daughter. Her drawers only have 1/4 inch clearance underneath. Did you make the under mounts work with less than 1/2 inch? Also, her drawers are flush mounted. Should that stop me?
My drawers also only had 1/4" clearance between the bottom of the drawer box sides and the drawer opening in the cabinet. But the bottom panel of the drawer box was inset another 1/4". That is where the 1/2" is important. As long as the bottom panel of the drawer box has 1/2" clearance, and drawer box sides are 1/2 - 5/8" thick, (they are not designed for 3/4") you should be good to go.
I have only installed these on my cabinets, which are not inset or flush. Mine are called overlay. The slides say they work with both inset and overlay.
Hope that helps, and I'd love to hear how it comes out. It is a totally worthwhile upgrade!
Where did you get your hardware?
I have links to the ones I used on my website at uncharteddiy.com/full-extension-drawer-slides/
This project is one of those that makes me smile every time I open these drawers. The coolness has not worn off after all this time!
Don't you think centermounted undermount slides would have made more sense? No notching required---even if you had to use 2 for the weight?
That would have been great, but I searched everywhere for that type WITH full extension capability and couldn't find them anywhere. I think they are the Holy Grail or hen's teeth of the drawer slide world 😁
My drawers are 23 in. long will I have to cut them down to fit a 21in slide?
Interesting question, 01imhot. First, make sure they are really that long. Measure from the back of the drawer to the back of the face panel. In other words, just the drawer box, not including the drawer front.
If they are really 23", it would require some creativity because there are "hooks" on the back of the slides. These are meant to slide into holes drilled in the back panel of the drawer. You can see in my video that my drawers were shorter than the slides, so I mounted extension blocks on the back so the "hooks" could engage. Those hooks hold the drawer down onto the slides, and prevent the slide from moving side to side.
With longer drawers, I think it would work to drill holes in the drawer bottom to engage those hooks, but that depends on how thick the bottom is. It might also be possible to secure the slide to the bottom of the drawer another way, but then the hooks would need to be flattened so they didn't interfere with the bottom of the drawer.
I hope what I'm trying to describe makes sense, and hope it helps. I would love to hear what you end up doing!
When you cut the notches in the drawer did you cut on the side and bottom?
Do you mean the drawer itself? Then, yes, I notched the bottom of the back panel on each side.
I mean on the cabinets. I see you cut a notch on the sides for the rail but did you cut on the bottom for rail as well
@@01imhot Ah, thanks for clarifying. I had enough room top-to-bottom that I didn't need to notch the bottom. The rail sits on the lip without notching.
I was trying to use your video and modify my drawers, but the slides you have linked in your video is not available. Any other slides that I can buy that you can link? I am mostly finding slides where i have to make a notch on the face frame about .5inch inctead of .25inch like you did. Also there is no face frame wall between the two drawers side by side. The only way for me to screw the slides is at the back into the back wall of face frame and the .25inch notches that I make in the face frame. So if the slide is not screwed into anything on its sides, will it still be stable and able to support the drawer? Max weight inside the drawer would be 20-30 pounds.
I know that Blum makes some just like the ones I bought, but I won't be able to look into this until mid next week. I hope that will still be useful then.
@@UnchartedDIY thanks a lot :)
Hi shweta, sorry for the delay in getting back with you. I'm not sure what happened, but the link to the slides (amzn.to/3l6SyB2) appears to be working properly now. These are the ones I used and have been very happy with them. These fit like Blum 563h slides, but don't have as much adjustment as the Blums. You can look at the installation PDF for the "TANDEM plus BLUMOTION 563H-563" on their product page www.blum.com/us/en/products/runnersystems/tandem/assembly/ for details on how they are mounted. Both of these slides work well with or without face frames, so the PDF should help visualize how they are installed.
The side clearance requirement varies depending on the thickness of the sides of the drawer box. The PDF should help with that too. Mine already had .25 inch clearance on each size, so the .25 notches allowed for the .5 inch needed for each of the slides.
I hope that helps, and I'd love to know how you like them when you get them installed. These slides still rank as one of the best kitchen upgrades I've ever made, and I'm betting you will be as happy as I am too!
@@UnchartedDIY Thank you so much for replying back and with all the details. This certainly gave me the confidence to take this on !!!!
@@UnchartedDIY one more question...instead of undermount, can I retrofit to side mount? Still would need to notch out the cabinet face frame on the sides of the drawer where the slide will sit.
my existing cabinet is 28 inches, do I need to have that long slide, or is there a way it can be managed with 21 inches ?
That is a great question, Naga. The depth of the cabinet is usually much deeper than the length of the drawer, and the drawer is the important measurement. If you measure from the back of the drawer face, to the back of the drawer, THAT is the length of slide that you want.
While you can go with a slide that is shorter than the drawer, the drawer will only open to the length of the slide, and not full extension. In other words, if your drawer is 22" deep and you use 20" full extension slides, the drawer will only open 20", leaving the last 2 inches inside the cabinet.
Let me know if that answers your question, and I'd love to hear how it goes when you do this project!
@@UnchartedDIY For my own clarification... The depth of my cabinet is 23" while the drawer is 18", so I should purchase an 18' slide. I can relate to kitchen drawers that are ancient need an upgrade. Thank you for any help. C
That's a great question, Chuck. The the slide should match the drawer measurement, so yes, 18" in your case.
@@UnchartedDIY thank you!
@@chucklubeck7138 I'm ready to purchase slides for my cabinet project, but before I do... The slides in you video appear to span from the back the cabinet to the drawer face. I'm assuming the slide has to be anchored at both ends to support the drawer, but in my circumstances, what about the 5 inch discrepancy in the length of the drawer vs. the depth of the cabinet. Any help educating me is appreciated!