Diverted Neutral Current - Description Overview Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2023
- Diverted Neutral Current, also known as Neutral Current Diversion. This can occur both in normal operation and when there is a problem with the supply network.
Part 1 covers the basic principles of both. 
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The issue with a fault being unusual is that people aren't aware of the possibility, or having been told in college years ago have forgotten it. And what you *_don't_* know is all the more dangerous. So a valuable service from JW in making these videos.
Here in Canada we use a split phase delivery with two lines and a neutral. My son rented a house in Edmonton, Alberta and I noticed that the overhead triplex supply cable had a completely disconnected neutral. All the electrics appeared to be working normally (the neutral in a split phase system only carries unbalanced load current). The landlord refused to believe anything was amiss, until the telephone lineman installing internet pointed it out. The landlord called the power company to re-connect the neutral. I can only surmise that any neutral current was flowing through the earth conductor to a metallic water line and returning to the transformer through the neighbours' earthing systems and through their neutrals.
Plumbers changing out water meters should always bridge each side first with shorting cable before removing the meter. Many have been injured or killed as the result of high voltage across the gap, due either to normal operation or a neutral connection fault in a nearby property.
We are CURRENTLY with you JW. . We will not be DIVERTED or NEUTRALISED from you ❤
Nice one John. Making the difficult issues easy to understand once again. 👏
Well explained John. Looking forward to seeing the rig in action.
Very interesting and quite fascinating. In the 1970's during my apprenticeship with the EEB we went out to a fault. The reported fault was that the consumer turned on the kitchen light and it blew up accompanied by a bang and big arc!
When we got there, we established that there were no other items in the installation actually turned on at all (they didn't even have a fridge!
The semi-detached 1920's was at the end of the lane in the wilds of Essex.
We checked their supply fuse, (40A rated BS88) it had blown! The experienced electrician said not to replace it at this point!
The installation was what is now called a TT system and there was an earth rod connected with a single piece of '7064' (6.0mm?) copper conductor. When I got my 'John Drummond' test lead out (15w pygmy lamp in series with a resistor) and connected it Live to Neutral between the two seperate connectors it was bright! Immediately I knew that we had more than what was then normal expected voltage of 240V!
When I checked Line / Earth, it was the normal brightness for single phase installations (we weren't equipped in thoses days with voltage meters LOL!
We went outside to have a look at the overheads which consisted of 4 overhead lines with a pick-up on the top and bottom conductors (the standard would have been Red phase (now Line 1) and the bottom being the Neutral - the conducts were covered in the old style material braid. Nothing seem untoward.
I popped next door. Luckily the people were in and said that they turned the (electric) cooker on and it didn't work, along with the immersion heater and the washing machine!!
I did the same tests as next door - their supply fuse (60A rated BS88) hadn't blown!
Again I got the same brightness levels on my test lamp.
When I looked at the overhead lines their connections were 2nd conductor (Yellow phase - now L2) and the bottom one, the Neutral.
The electrician said "it sounds like a high neutral up the pole"!
By this he meant that the supply neutral in the network prior to the properties had gone open circuit.
He concluded that each installation was on a different phase and when the first consumer turned on here kitchen light it put the two properties 'phase to phase' nominally 415 volts!
Experienced learnt - only ever saw this type of fault one again in an office where there was a dis. board burnt out connection! Keep up the good work, though I'm retired, still have a thirst for our industry!
came across similar in a 3 phase sub board in a factory, nice board solid quality install just added my two circuits and breakers to it check and all fine, everything in the workshop fine button it up and carry on elsewhere ,,,lunchtime a guy was charging his drill battery and it melted ,came to see me if it was repairable ,,didnt look like it was but plugged my socket tester into the socket and 415v present ,, the whole worskshop was 415 the fault was the incoming supply to the board neutral was loose, slight bit of burning on the copper inside the connection but thats it,,, probably been loose but functional for years combination of me disturbing the board and him placing his charger on top of the board as he normally does was the final straw,,,,,,, everytime i open a board since then, 3 phase or singe i check every conection even though they have nothing to do with me even my own ,,,,,
These are the type of video I love from John.
Given that we use three phase distribution the maximum potential difference between L1 and earth could be more than 230v since the neighbouring property with the missing neutral line might be on l2 or l3.
Yes, with an open neutral, voltage L-E could be anything up to 400 volts. Also likely to change at any time as various loads in other properties are switched on and off.
I had that at my flat last year! My electrics went peculiar and I assumed there was something wrong with my wiring. So I measured the mains voltage with a multimeter and over a period of about 30 seconds I watched it drop down to 100V and then gently go back up to 240 and on to 400V. I failed to get to the CU in time and most of my kitchen appliances were toast! (as were the appliances in the other 11 flats). Turns out it was the neutral to the block of flats (I assume it's TN-C-S). Presumably the block is supplied with three phases so when one of the flats turned on a kettle, the flats on the other phases got the phase-to-phase voltage.
I'm thinking I should have my CU replaced and fitted with Schneider Electric AFDDs cos these seem to be the only devices that have an over-voltage trip (270V). I was looking at surge protection devices but I don't know that they would necessarily be effective for 400V.
@edwilliams8225 That would rather be a Floating Feeder Neutral in an 3 phase supply…
Personally, regardless of what current is going through the earth bonding wire, I would use a temporary earth bonding lead to strap any gas and water pipe to the main earth terminal before disconnecting the bonding for alterations. Because you don’t know how conditions can change while you’re working.
A interesting case to watch out for! I am beginning to think TT earthing (If the location is suitable) is the way forward to replace TN-C-S, considering this video and possible PEN faults at the distributors network. Excellent video John, many thanks!
I came across a situation where the annex of a property had a separate supply installed but the earth bond was left connected. An open PEN fault occured on the main property supply resulting in the entire neutral current going via the earth bond to the annex, so everything still worked. It was obvious from the clamp meter readings so we didn't disconnect anything. DNO were out within the hour & eventually found the break. It was overhead open wire & ABC system so relatively easy to fix. We then removed the common earth bond to prevent the neutral currents from both properties sharing the two return paths and completely separate the supplies.
It always amazes me we have this inherently dangerous system as standard, all to save a bit of copper on the supply.
The ABC system has been throwing up a lot of issues like this due to the use of aluminium conductors and insulation displacement connectors.
The modern cable joints and splices that use copper braid held against steel armour with springy metal strips are particularly squirmy.
Great video very clear and concise... In NZ we have a MEN system and plastic water pipes from a plastic water main...
Most countries have an earth electrode connected to the N&E at the panel, which will mitigate most of the problems of open CNE conductors.
In the UK, most properties have no earth electrode, as although allowed it's not compulsory so no one bothers to install them.
And is the water in a plastic pipe a conductor ????
@@jwflameIt only mitigates it if it is a low impedance earth electrode. Just a copper rod stuck in the ground with more than 100 ohms of impedance, as is common for British TT systems, provides very little protection from these faults. I know a lot of countries bury a bare copper wire all the way around the perimeter of the house with multiple rods attached to it, which should do a much better job.
Very interesting subject here JW as if there is significant Diverted Neutral current the Voltage could be lower than than expected at the Customer's intake position depending on the location of the Sub Station
Another excellent presentation, thank you John
Well explained, looking forward to the test rig. Thanks JW ❤
Excellent, thank you Mr Ward
Great explanation again John 👍
Fantastic info as always 🙏🏼
Good one John, I had a similar issue last week. It helped me to understand better
Great video on dangers with earthing and bonding. So clearly presented.
Very sage advice, JW, we use a variation of the TN-C-S system here in New Zealand called the Multiple Earthed Neutral system.
With corrosion near to the sea, you can end up with broken earthing leads to the main earth electrode.
These often go un-noticed until the neutral conductor fails as well.
With single-phase installations being fed on the same phase every 3 houses down the road, things like this can be really problematic to fault-find.
There was a lady who was killed here a few years ago when she got into the shower, the outlet in the shower was live at 239VAC, I got sent there to find out why this happened, the house 3 doors down, had a broken neutral and earthing wire to the electrode (it was overhead reticulation and the neutral had broken with the service cable swinging in the wind).
In the UK, most properties have TN-C-S supplies.
Most of them have no earth electrode at all, because it was never required or installed.
Very tragic case. Thats why ground electrodes should be chacked at least once in a few months and its better to use multiple electrodes for additional safety. You can easily create a grounding system with an impedance under 2 Ohms.
outlet in the shower?
@@jpegxguy I think he means the water outlet, not an electrical outlet. Ie. the shower head. An electric shower will be earthed, so if the earth becomes energised you can get a shock off it.
To have 239V on the shower head, presumably her installation wasn't properly earthed either. If she had a relatively low impedance earth electrode of her own, that would bring the voltage down considerably. (In the UK, she likely wouldn't have any earth electrode at all, as John mentioned. Even if she did, it would probably be just a copper rod stuck in the ground with more than 100 ohms of impedance providing little benefit.)
great thanks a lot for your effort and explanation
Great video JW!
I have found 230v @ 60a on bonding, turned out that the neighbour had a meter hack, they had lifted the neutral, and was running the earth as the neutral, the metre depended on both L&N to make a reading, they had a light switch that would connect the incoming Neutral and the meter would spin as usual when the light switch was on, this was turned on when the meter reader came out or for a few weeks per billing cycle.
They had a heated pool, when the neutral was disconnected, the load from the pool pumps and heater, along with all house devices traveled the earth bond, and reappeared next door where I was working on their bonding.
Highly dangerous, and created by an affluent multi-mullion £ house, trying to knock their electric bill.
Disgusting
Great video Sir, I watched another one of your videos which showed how the networks neutral can be pinned into the ground with rods by the DNO (normally because of a repair by the DNO on the neutral), therefore as good as turning the system inside the property to TT.
Thank you John. You explained the tncs thing really well
Excellent video John. Enjoyed it!
great video. thanks
if there are more neighbours, not only two you demonstrated, there is much more chance very small voltage will be present when the neighbour bonding disconnected. there are lots of other way for the neutral be diverted and original house's appliances will suffer bad performance then normal, which sometime will not noticed if the appliances not cause so much current.
Brilliant explanation, cable supply networks usually have the neutral staked down at pole or under ground
Great tutorial.
Great. Idea John thank you
Just checked mine, there was just over 100mA on the main earth cable out of my consumer unit, but about 600mA on the link between the service cable sheath earth (TN-S) and the MET (The MET has the supplier earth, the gas and water bond, and the earth for the CU)
I’d like to have a look through that G.E.C. Book.
Great video JW
archive.org/details/GECAllElectBook
Hi john, from an old spark from the 60'. well explained as usual and excellent tutorial. Is it possible when you do your demonstration to use a Fluke T6-600 clamp meter to see if it can show current and voltage at the same time on the display I understand it can do that so may be very useful if it does, contact testers can be a bit sensitive, I've got a couple and they seem to be. Just a thought, look forward to next video always an high standard hard to beat.
Peter.
John with I test rig to come… I foresee flames, wreckage and destruction…
Thanks John
BTW,, Impressed with your explanations of this subject, and sure you will get enquiries about the impressive test rig you built to show this.. sure ,,, that colleges and learning providers would be interested in your designs for education👍
Been trying to work on a live model of this. Issues I've found is knowing the resistivity of water/gas pipes etc as it seems to vary a lot so I'd like to know the min and max to gain insight how to move forward on this issue as this influences the touch voltages potentially present that you describe at time stamp 17:10. Great video as always John. Thank you.
Let's hope the utilities get on with inserting insulating sections pronto as that would help in many cases....... Water still may be an issue tho as it may not be enough to reduce conductivity to satisfactory levels? Would depend on water conductivity In different areas. Obv most new builds are resistant to this issue as they have very few extraneous potentials. I wonder if it's a water people and gas people issue rather than electrical people issue?
Cheers John
This gets even more complicated when you throw a property with a three phase inbalanced load into the mix. In that situation you can get voltages greater than 230 volts once the bonding conductors are detatched!
Mr Ward. Is there any way to geolocate a 0,2Mohm leak in 4x35 underground (less than a meter depth) cable. Isolation damaged (L3 and PEN is leaking to each other and actual ground)? Cable is 50m between street and house main panel.
Greetings John!
Another stimulating interesting video,,, while you were describing the currents in this I started considering what happens to R.C.Ds.,, And even the Meter would have its accuracy thrown off,, as I believe both those devices work with both L&N and the relative balance is how they both perform their tasks
Wouldn't affect meters as although they normally have both L and N going in and out, the neutrals are solidly linked across. The neutral is only required to power the meter. Indeed, I've seen the odd installation where the meter only has a neutral going into the meter (to power it) but the neutral going off to the CU has been taken off the henley block before the meter.
Also it wouldn't trouble the RCD because the parallel path is upstream from it. You still have balanced current through the RCD because it's only once it gets back to the cutout that it has the chance to take a parallel path via the earth terminal.
The kWh meter will still be functioning as per the household appliances.
The open CNE/PEN is Before/At the Service Head.
I'm not an electrician so this is probably flawed thinking. Is it right to think that you may not detect a high current as the appliance may not be turned on i.e. next door does not know they have no power until they turn their oven on at which point you get electrocuted because the system tested as safe? Is it prudent to always replace the bonding with a "jumper" to ensure that there is always a path to N/E just in case? Thanks for a great video on something that I hadn't considered.
Yes - the current depends on what loads are connected at the time, so it will change as various different loads are switched on and off. It's totally unpredictable.
Even more fun with a old fashioned shared service !
John
I live in Southern Ireland and we use TN-C-S and the incoming supply to the houses is underground.
We have a plastic water pipe and no gas in our house. Some neighbors have gas but I think it is also a plastic pipe.
But, in our estate, we all also have a local earth rod fitted on each property. This rod is fitted a few feet from the meter cabinet, which is in the side passage of the house, and the rod is connected to the main earth terminal in the meter cabinet.
This local earth will, as you say, carry a proportion of the current depending on its impedance.
The danger of this system is we may never know if our neutral was broken or damaged as the earth rod will then carry all the current.
The advantage is, I suppose, is in the event of a broken neutral a householder should not receive a shock from "extraneous metal parts" as the earth rod should dissipate the current.
And believe me when I say it wouldn't surprise me if we had broken neutrals as guys with diggers have dug up nearly everything in the estate over the years.
Any observations?
Thanks for the videos.
Classic Static caravan park supply situation PME is not permitted ESQCR great work Jon
Great video john.
In ireland we have a earth electrode would that have to break as well to cause this suitation.
Most countries do. The UK does not, even though such things have been permitted for ever.
This is another reason im installing my own earth nest
Could it be 400V if next door is on a different phase?
Also currents quite low if only modern LED lighting is on. (But presumably this generalises across many houses, which increases both the potential current sources and current sinks with multiple phases to contend with too - so someone's neutral could end up partially going down someone else's line due to the phase difference?)
Yes, depends on how loads in different properties are balanced across the phases. With an open CNE, some properties may get a voltage which is too low, others too high, and some may get approximately the correct voltage. All of that will change as the various loads in each property are switched on or off.
Hi John thanks for a very interesting video. I was confused though by the single pole voltage meter? I wondered how on earth (sorry about the pun) how they worked???
They work via capacitance, the metal probe being one pole and earth is referenced via capacitance through the person holding it. One example: www.socketandsee.co.uk/product/socket-and-see-epf-pro-hazardous-voltage-and-phase-finder/
I'm happy 3phase tt with plastic gas and waterlines is the norm here in the netherlands.
Do you expect other systems to evolve to something similar to this?
Gas and water supplies in the UK are already plastic for anything recent, and older steel pipes are being replaced with plastic, either individually when properties are refurbished or whole streets at a time because the old pipes are corroding away.
3 phase is unlikely for UK homes, almost none of them have it and there isn't really any need for it.
This can only happen if adjacent homes share the same mains. In the US we use split phase 120/240 volt supplies almost always with separate transformers for each property. We also use separate grounding rods for the earth connection. Although many years ago the earth ground may have been a water pipe.
We can get an open neutral from the transformer and send any imbalanced current through the bonded neutral/ground connection. The neutral only has the imbalance between the two main 240 volt lines. The mains between two properties are isolated by their individual transformers. As far as I know, the only situation where the mains might be shared is in apartments in the same building
Most UK homes are connected to a shared transformer which typically supplies anything from dozens to hundreds of individual properties.
@@jwflame Yeah, I fairly recently discovered how common it was there! Definitely not the case in the US. The fact that we use split phase, would really complicate things with shared mains.
Maybe the shared mains saves a little money and European systems use less copper, but even then shared mains only seems practical with a neighborhood all built at the same time which is genially not how we did it. Even today, housing is more of a national issue in Europe, whereas in the US, that isn't nor never was the norm.
A bunch of smaller transformers are pretty cost effective over big ones. Most of the country uses overhead HV lines and pole mounted transformers and I think we spend a lot less on feed cables. I guess there are trade-off with underground feeds. We do sometimes use a pad mounted transformers right near the road and then underground to the homes. But that isn't usually the norm. And I have never seen daisy chaining from house to house, which I understand is fairly common there, making upgraded services for things like EV chargers and heat pumps. Upsizing a service in the US is pretty quick and low cost.
Standard service used to be 100A 240/120, but 200A is the norm for new service and 400A is not unusual for big homes that are all electric. Just a lot more differences than one might think!!
Personally, I think the split phase approach is just so much more efficient and safer with the standard circuits being 120 volts. And it made a ton of sense at the time of the current wars. Edison had fairly extensive wiring using 3 wire DC and very popular 110 volt incandescent lighting. Those installations were easily adaptable to to split phase AC. Edison wanted DC, but in losing out to AC, he still won financially, I enjoy the history of the development of electrical systems! I find it interesting that in many ways it was the British scientific community who were the technical center of electrical development. But then it was largely the German engineers who called the shots for how Europe would go. And then European colonies followed with the same standards. In the very early days, electricity was mainly about lighting but before long motors and other devices became common place, and neither system was even going to consider changing.
so if i become aware of this happening, what should i do? call the electricity supplier?
hi, John thank you for the videos on diverted neutral current ,,, very interesting subject and i'm looking forward to hearing more from you on this subject.
can i ask you a question. I currently have an installation which i've only looked at briefly, where the final circuits are showing readings of PE=.51 AND PN 1.06 OHMS
and respectively PFC 450A & PSC 217A,,, in this case where the psc is lower than the pfc,, could it be a consequence of a failing nuetral connection on the dno's side? which could lead to a broken pen conductor? your thoughts welcomed.
unable to test pfc and psc at the origin of the installation due to complexity ( 3 phase 100a suppy to hmo property)
voltage and frequency at ok @ 233v 50hz
initially used a martindale ez2500 to gather these results prior to doing anything.
dave d
Couldnt we put something inline to alloww current to only pass one way. Like a diode for example.
So can the current in earth bonding be made to do work and if so does it go on anybody's meter or is it free energy?
Perhaps there should be a requirement that all copper piping in a home that might be Earth Bonded should have a non-conductive section on entering the home, to isolate it electrically from other properties. This could easily be retrofitted when a house is rewired, or replumbed. I'm not a fan of things like PEX for water, as I wonder what endocrine disruptors might be mixed in to such plastics, but the use of plastic water and gas pipes would eliminate the DNC problem.
Then would it still be required to be Bonded?
@@temp06j723-pmeighttq It depends on whether there are any extraneous conductive parts in the system. There could be pipework piercing the building envelope, such as drains, or pipework buried in a concrete floor. Particularly in older properties, it's better to adopt a 'belt and braces' approach.
Can I ask a silly q: if earth and neutral are connected what is the point of earth?
My non professional mental model was the circuit is live->load->neutral and earth is to catch disconnected conductors in preference to completing the circuit through a human.
(I am not an electrician)
Thank you
Having an earth conductor connected to conductive surfaces means that they are all at the same potential and in a working installation that potential is same as the mass of earth itself so although current can flow you won’t receive a shock should you touch it, even in a fault condition. Furthermore, in such a fault condition it is likely that given the low resistance of the earth conductor, the high current will trigger an overcurrent protection device such as MCB or fuse.
@@_chrisr_ Understood - thank you and thats aligned with my understanding of Earth.
My question is if its connected to Neutral - which is the return on the load circuit its effectively at the neutral potential?
Does that make sense?
What would happen if just the neutral was disconnected as it comes out of the cutout would the metal cu become live
Could this lead to DNO voltage transformers fitted around the incoming earth after it is split? The VT monitors voltage on the earth and actuates a protective device that would effectively disconnect the affected property after a certain threshold.
Highly impractical and possibly dangerous in itself but it just seems like there is very much little else to be done other that rip up the whole TNCS network, which, knowing our government, wont be something they'll be interested in doing
VTs round all metallic utilities also?
Its one video a week, but the old saying one blacksmith is worth a hundred goldsmiths is true.
Yo JW when next video droping?
That's why Terra Terra is still the best system.. TT Gang Represent!!
A thought - If I am using significant current in my house and the CNE connection fails then potentially it could put all that load onto someone else's Earth Bond - which possibly would not be robust enough to take it. I preusme that could cause a fire or similar problems in a neighbour's property.
5:00 draw big dots where N & E divide for consistency. 8:00 Modern water mains are made of blue plastic; not metal.
I now consider the earth the most dangerous conductor, we all know what to expect with the live and even the neutral to some extent but I bet many/most won't expect the earth to bite! Potentially fatal mistake!
If you don't have a earth electrode, what would you compare the voltage against after disconnecting the earth?
You can't. Either use a single pole contact voltage indicator, or put a temporary electrode in the garden outside.
The electric meter neutral/earth sees less current in the example presented with diverted neutral current. Does it still measure kWh correctly?
The electric meter is downstream from the neutral-earth bonding so it is not affected.
@@okaro6595 In my house the earth bonding wire to the buried iron gas main comes from the consumer unit but the meter tails are direct from the TNCS conductor where a Henley block supplies incoming earth to the consumer unit. So in the case presented diverted neutral current through the earth bonding wire does not go through the meter which would see unbalanced current on live and neutral tails. Although my clamp meter says no current in the earth bond and L and N conductors seem roughly balanced.
Electricity meters only measure current in the line. Neutral is a solid link internally and only there so it can get a reference for the voltage between L-N.
@@andybarnard4575 the electric meter likely only measure’s current in the L conductor, the N conductor is there so that the meter has a source of power that it can use to function
thats why we need a proper RCD
RCDs do not detect open CNE conductors.
@@jwflame
Thats right i realised a bit after also called open PEN
Is there a difference between E (earth) and PE (protective earth)? I'm not used to letter "E". Coming from EU mainland.
Protective is from what I understand just a descriptive of the purpose and not a difference in installation, as the potential equalisation while using different colour (clear or by latest standard, pink insulation) is hooked up to the same bar as the PE.
@@BPo75 pink? Usa?
@@tarassu Latest iteration of the IEC standard from the beginning of 2023.
Given that properties in a street are usually on alternate phases how does this complicate matters?
If the CNE or neutral is broken, the voltage in each house can either be too low, correct or too high. Anything up to 400V between L&N is possible, with exposed metal parts up to 400V above the true Earth outside.
Something I had never even considered. BTW We now have Blue plastic water pipes and yellow gas plastic gas pipes to the house, and the earth is still connected to them- so having it connected via the neutral is a bonus I suppose.
That's not the earthing conductor, it's the bonding conductor and it doesn't connect to plastic incoming services.. unless the spark is an idiot and doesn't understand bonding requirements.
@@DS-tp6vxevery new build I see has the gas and water bonded😂
@@DS-tp6vx Plenty such idiots out there... A few years ago, at a complete new installation in a commercial property I was working at (installing the AV systems) I had a good chuckle at what the sparky had done on the water supply. New water supply in MDPE out of the ground, all of the internal pipework was plastic speedfit or similar but they had inserted a foot long piece of copper just after the stopcock so that sparky had somewhere to stick his bonding wire! Apparently some out there think that you need to "bond" the water 😂
@timbo19 Obsessive Bonding Disorder
ELCB will work, right?
Not for an open CNE conductor. See here: ruclips.net/video/JRHyqouJPzE/видео.html
Food for thought🤔. Clip on amp meter before you disconnect, thank heavens for plastic pipes 😂
And is the water in a plastic pipe a conductor ????
@@pjeaton58 well yes it does but it would have to travel the entire length of the plastic to to an earthed underground pipe. It would be very high resistance
And is the water in a plastic pipe a conductor ????
Not in any significant way. ruclips.net/video/MF9DCNkaE8I/видео.html
The likely situation of this happening is ?
No one really knows. Incidents of open CNE conductors are reported, currently 100s per year in the UK and the number is increasing. However whether they are all reported correctly or at all is another matter.
It's also important to realise that one report of an open CNE could affect 10s or 100s of properties.
So if you lost supply neutral and had an electric shower and EV charger going at full tilt, all that current could be adding to a neighbour's load current and overload the bonding conductor.....
This will only get better.
Love it mate. Not DNC, you 💪
Is it not time that TNC-S was converted back to TNS.
Does it mean that my neighbour is going to pay for my bill ? :)
Bang 😂
3 repetitions in 1st 3 mins
This guys knowledge and method of teaching is brilliant. Only rivalled by the guys from GSH electrical (or Efixx) as their now called. Together, by far the best online for learners. Keep up the good work, thanks
Hi John, I was just wondering if you might be able to help? I just received a 1960's Vortexion valve amplifier, which has the original power outlet, but no accompanying lead. The unit's in very good condition, I just need to track down a suitable power lead, or possibly swap the outlet for an IEC?!
Any advice would be much appreciated....many thanks, Dan
Use an IEC ! with due regard to male/female for power in or out ..