I most of the time just jump in to whatever it is I'm working on for my hobby I don't work on saws for money just for my enjoyment. I took the side cover off and then the little spring cover then I looked at the Dam thing for probably 20 minutes, then I turned to your video for help and it took me less than 5 minutes to get it all back together and to start the saw. Thank you very much. Your my new hero.
Hi hi ! Thx sharing this instructional video. You are the most well spoken and speak the most exact and relevant...to the theme or the repair detail you at any moment are engaged in. Thats very good and helpful for us that seeks demonstration on how to do. Thx bro ! :-)
I have 4 of these in varying conditions. I had 1 that was running for a time. I absolutely was amazed by the power and weight ratio of it. Running full chisel 59 link 16" it was a cutting little monster in oak. During an ethanol fuel crisis here I was for a time using 100 octane aviation gasoline. It worked very well. I will be attempting to get another running again this year. Great "little" saw.
Another nice vid Leon. I am starting on rebuilding my second SEZ. As far as a pain in the butt saw I would have to give that to the Power Mac 6 or mini Mac, at least with Homelite you don't HAVE to have a molded fuel line. I made myself a rope cutter out of 24 ga. Nichrome and a 2 amp motorcycle battery charger, you could get away with a 1 1/2 amp charger but a 1 amp is just a bit weak. I like the fact you can burn/cut the rope on a slant and it seals.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair I believe you cannot use the smart battery chargers they have now. Most of the older style car chargers offered a 2 amp charge so you could use one of them. I just used a motorcycle charger because I dedicated it to the hot wire rope cutter and it's a lot smaller unit.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Also if you don't mind me giving another suggestion, when removing the S type clutch on the SEZ or any model that would have it, You can use a wrench from a 4" disc grinder that has the two posts sticking out, it slides into the opening on the S clutch (not the holes in the clutch) and loosens it with ease. At first I was going to make a custom wrench and then thought of the grinder wrench and it worked so well I didn't bother making one.
Thank you so much. Nice video and very easy to follow. I had hell trying to install the pull rope the spring like you said blew up all over the place. One thing I did notice is the plastic retainer was not installed on your video. Is it not necessarily to have it on? The way yours came off is the same way mine was. I wonder if it's not supposed to be under the snap ring??
Do you have filters, fuel lines etc. for a Homelite "XL Automatic Oiler" circa 1979? Mod #105154, ser# 792910317, 26.2 cc.? I got it as a present in '79-80 and it stayed in the box (had a same sized Jonsered until I gave it to my son in 2001) so it has a a few hours at most since it began service in the early 2000's. I would like to have replacements to give it a good overhaul for the first time. I haven't had to do much other than a new pull rope a couple of times (the last time the straight filaments of nylon in the chinese cord fluffed up and made a mess after the out jacket wore away in a couple of hours of use!). Went to braided nylon #4 Venetian Blind cord which fits perfectly. My pulley is a shade less than 3mm. I had bought a small spool of the chinesium and found it also had a bundle of straight filaments as a core with a light outer braided jacket. If the ignition coils are a fail point I would like one of those should you have them. These days the saw gets a couple hours of use every couple of years for tree trimming and that is about it. Any other fail points I might need? The recoil spring anchor point broke off in the plastic housing a few years ago but I was able to reanchor it with JB Weld and it still holds. A bit of a pain when the spring goes sproing to rewind it with a solid anchor, but it works. It uses the spring with no cassette and no backing plate. Just a spring and the plastic cord spool, one piece. Probably could use a new bar and chain (3/8") .375 and I believe depending on how you measure it the bar is 12" but I could go to 14" if that is not available. I would like a greasable nose. A nice little limbing saw light and handy. Thanks for the help. Doug
I just want to say thank you for your videos I had a question. I'm looking to buy an old Homelite chainsaw ez but I've noticed it looks like there's three different models you have. EZ then the Super EZ then the super automatic EZ what is the difference thank you for your time
Hi Leon, I wrote you several months ago and I tried lubrication as you suggested and didn't seem to help. I decided to inspect the coil spring and I'm pretty certain it's broken. Is it possble to send you a picture of it so you could confirm my diagnosis? If so would you have a replacement spring and pull rope? My Super EZ Auto is an early to mid 80s model. Thanks much, Dan Frase
The washer will prevent the pulley from wearing into the the bushing and starter housing. It'll be fine for a while, but if the the pulley starts hanging up, the missing washer is likely why.
Hi Leon, my starter rope and recoil spring on my super ez auto seem to be ok but when I pull to start it the rope won’t always recoil as it should. I wonder if the little square hub is worn out?
What does this tell a person about this saw, where it was made, when it was made, etc. Model 10045 A--what does this tell a person and what is the "A"? Serial number: 492640166. What does this tell a person also? I cannot find any information on it. I bought it new but forgot what year it was made and bought. I think sometimes in the 70's.
I most of the time just jump in to whatever it is I'm working on for my hobby I don't work on saws for money just for my enjoyment. I took the side cover off and then the little spring cover then I looked at the Dam thing for probably 20 minutes, then I turned to your video for help and it took me less than 5 minutes to get it all back together and to start the saw. Thank you very much. Your my new hero.
Thanks. I did it alone but checked afterwards with your video that I did it right. Your video gave me a piece of mind.
Hi hi ! Thx sharing this instructional video. You are the most well spoken and speak the most exact and relevant...to the theme or the repair detail you at any moment are engaged in. Thats very good and helpful for us that seeks demonstration on how to do. Thx bro ! :-)
Sir you probably have the best sounding Voice I have ever heard to explain what you’re doing sounds like you can do radio.. great video 👌🏽👌🏽👍👍
He's got a Ron Swanson sound to him right?
Thank you for your videos on things like this. Very helpful for sure.
One of the best chainsaws ever power for size but a pain in the ass to work on
Well said!
I have 4 of these in varying conditions. I had 1 that was running for a time. I absolutely was amazed by the power and weight ratio of it. Running full chisel 59 link 16" it was a cutting little monster in oak. During an ethanol fuel crisis here I was for a time using 100 octane aviation gasoline. It worked very well. I will be attempting to get another running again this year. Great "little" saw.
Another nice vid Leon. I am starting on rebuilding my second SEZ. As far as a pain in the butt saw I would have to give that to the Power Mac 6 or mini Mac, at least with Homelite you don't HAVE to have a molded fuel line. I made myself a rope cutter out of 24 ga. Nichrome and a 2 amp motorcycle battery charger, you could get away with a 1 1/2 amp charger but a 1 amp is just a bit weak. I like the fact you can burn/cut the rope on a slant and it seals.
That's a great idea!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair I believe you cannot use the smart battery chargers they have now. Most of the older style car chargers offered a 2 amp charge so you could use one of them. I just used a motorcycle charger because I dedicated it to the hot wire rope cutter and it's a lot smaller unit.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Also if you don't mind me giving another suggestion, when removing the S type clutch on the SEZ or any model that would have it, You can use a wrench from a 4" disc grinder that has the two posts sticking out, it slides into the opening on the S clutch (not the holes in the clutch) and loosens it with ease. At first I was going to make a custom wrench and then thought of the grinder wrench and it worked so well I didn't bother making one.
@@MegaLostOne Yep, the new charges won't even begin charging until they sense some voltage from the battery
@@MegaLostOne Sounds good!
Que onda Men muy buen trabajo..hi good job congratulecion..
Thank you so much. Nice video and very easy to follow. I had hell trying to install the pull rope the spring like you said blew up all over the place. One thing I did notice is the plastic retainer was not installed on your video. Is it not necessarily to have it on? The way yours came off is the same way mine was. I wonder if it's not supposed to be under the snap ring??
Do you have filters, fuel lines etc. for a Homelite "XL Automatic Oiler" circa 1979? Mod #105154, ser# 792910317, 26.2 cc.? I got it as a present in '79-80 and it stayed in the box (had a same sized Jonsered until I gave it to my son in 2001) so it has a a few hours at most since it began service in the early 2000's. I would like to have replacements to give it a good overhaul for the first time. I haven't had to do much other than a new pull rope a couple of times (the last time the straight filaments of nylon in the chinese cord fluffed up and made a mess after the out jacket wore away in a couple of hours of use!). Went to braided nylon #4 Venetian Blind cord which fits perfectly. My pulley is a shade less than 3mm. I had bought a small spool of the chinesium and found it also had a bundle of straight filaments as a core with a light outer braided jacket. If the ignition coils are a fail point I would like one of those should you have them. These days the saw gets a couple hours of use every couple of years for tree trimming and that is about it. Any other fail points I might need? The recoil spring anchor point broke off in the plastic housing a few years ago but I was able to reanchor it with JB Weld and it still holds. A bit of a pain when the spring goes sproing to rewind it with a solid anchor, but it works. It uses the spring with no cassette and no backing plate. Just a spring and the plastic cord spool, one piece. Probably could use a new bar and chain (3/8") .375 and I believe depending on how you measure it the bar is 12" but I could go to 14" if that is not available. I would like a greasable nose. A nice little limbing saw light and handy. Thanks for the help. Doug
I just want to say thank you for your videos I had a question. I'm looking to buy an old Homelite chainsaw ez but I've noticed it looks like there's three different models you have. EZ then the Super EZ then the super automatic EZ what is the difference thank you for your time
Hi Leon, I have an XL-76, do you recommend cold starting with the throttle lock and choke on ? Thanks
Hi Leon, I wrote you several months ago and I tried lubrication as you suggested and didn't seem to help. I decided to inspect the coil spring and I'm pretty certain it's broken. Is it possble to send you a picture of it so you could confirm my diagnosis? If so would you have a replacement spring and pull rope? My Super EZ Auto is an early to mid 80s model.
Thanks much, Dan Frase
I have a homelite 360 do I need to have the ware washer. Or is it not a big deal.
The washer will prevent the pulley from wearing into the the bushing and starter housing. It'll be fine for a while, but if the the pulley starts hanging up, the missing washer is likely why.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair ok thanks for the info I appreciate it.
so touching for an excellent video
Hi Leon, my starter rope and recoil spring on my super ez auto seem to be ok but when I pull to start it the rope won’t always recoil as it should. I wonder if the little square hub is worn out?
My EZ has the crappy plastic cover on it..and I need to find some sort of beauty ring to put in it cause the ropes eating a groove in it
LEON didn't you wind that rope counterclockwise
Indeed I did! Sometimes my brain and mouth aren't connected as well as they should be!
Thank you.
Can you please tell me what diameter of the rope you use here?
This 4MM rope (sometimes labeled as #4).
Thanks!
Also labeled as 1/8" rope.
Good video Leon, but you gotta put some paint on that vise. :{)
I know...it may become like the stool with red paint and become classic yellow! Okay, maybe not. :)
Don't get me wrong I love my EZ
Part number 65102 I'm in search of this part.
What does this tell a person about this saw, where it was made, when it was made, etc. Model 10045 A--what does this tell a person and what is the "A"? Serial number: 492640166. What does this tell a person also? I cannot find any information on it. I bought it new but forgot what year it was made and bought. I think sometimes in the 70's.
Biggest pain in the ass ever
CovidImages need to be invested more than half19