Shop Talk with Chris Garcia 66 Caprice : Don't Sand Blast!!
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- Опубликовано: 16 июн 2022
- Stop and don't sand blast that car!!! Travis talks with Chris Garcia and gets his experience on his 66 Chevy Caprice after Sand Blasting. However, this is just one of the topics they cover. Metal finishing, metal shaping and some of Chris' struggle will also be discussed. This will be Chris' first full build and we cant wait to see how it turns out!!!
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Chris Garcia (66 Caprice)
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/ blowngrit
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Ken Sakamoto (Metal Finishing Class)
/ sunchaser.shrinkingdisc
/ ken.sakamoto.77736
Jake "The Flying Dutchman" (Metal Shaping Class)
/ flyingdutchmanindustries
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That's one big reason I subscribe to this channel: no arrogance. There IS a difference between cocky and confident. I've worked with arrogance before. These are the guys who claim they never get a paint run. Those words no sooner leave their lips then there it is. Then they're asking me how to fix it. I'm more humble because it does take tripping and falling before you can walk. I've done face plants. Part of the learning process. If you haven't had problems or mistakes in this business you haven't been doing it long enough.
Absolutely correct. We’re just trying to help anyway we can. Thank you for watching.
If you have your car sandblasted and it winds up with warped panels your sandblaster does not what they are doing. That hood should never have been sandblasted because the panels are too flat any panel that does not have some crown or a body line to give it some strength to resist warping should not be blasted. Sandblasting is not about point and shoot there are a lot of variables that need to be considered like grit size air pressure distance from the panel and angle as well as what you are trying to remove. A good sandblaster will also have a working knowledge of metal finishing as well to determine what should be sandblasted and what shuold be hand stripped. I would not use a sandblaster that sandblasts bridges and structural steel any more than I would use a house painter to paint my car just my 2 cents.
I like the explaining, but little to no showing technique.
I agree with most of that however even big flat panels that have shape to them will also warp. The only areas that we will be sandblasting in the future will be floor pans and structural pieces
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS A big flat panel by definition is flat. Once it has any shape or features it is no longer a flat panel.
I'd have to agree with that. I've seen large panels blasted with no issues due to stamping and body lines. I usually stay away from hoods and decklids just as a precaution. The blaster switches media,pressure and technique.
If a blaster agreed to blast inside your small home shop, you’ve got the wrong blaster. There’s no way he could see what is going on inside there and he’s blasting blind and his work shows it. I am a 2nd generation body man with over 40 years experience and I also blast cars for people. I started with soda til the paint companies scared everybody away from that because people aren’t educated in how to prep panels after soda blasting. Now I sand blast everything, but I understand metal and distance, air pressure, size of the media and desired metal profile. I’ve never warped a panel yet but I know my limits as well as the limits of the metal. I blast for small shops as well as some that build $250k Goodguys award winning show cars. You can’t lump every blaster together and say it’s all bad. I’ve also seen lots of photos and videos of how acid dipping causes issues like leaching down the road. There is no perfect cookie cutter solution for every guy for every job period.
Thank you for your commitment to helping us become skilled in our approach to restoring our little bits of history. There are so many rip-off masters out there that will take your money and do a quick and sloppy job, that doing it yourself is for some of us, the answer. Decades ago, I found teaching myself how to build a house; wire it, plumb it and frame it was a good investment with the money in good tool and paying dividends in the decades to follow, with your skills always improving when you put in the time and studied. I am glad now, that after getting a decent '55 Chevy Sedan and doing a body off frame and drive gear replacement, but waiting and dreading the bodywork to follow, not knowing what the proper combination of primers and fillers to correctly apply...wow! in a day, I have a plan and I may have to be a little off the regular highway, roller applying epoxy primer over the metal and smoothing it since I can't spray in my garage, but everything you help us with from the correct products , correct grits, and more will save your viewers decades and yielding a great rod. As I said before, I will do your class, just need to see which one works.
Thanks!
Steve
Thank you!!
excellent video!! to media blast, or not to media blast, that is the question, this has been the age old topic of endless debate for many years, been told by a handful of blasting companies, that it's all about a certain technique, air pressure, distance, which media you're using, ect. ect. (the list goes on) so you won't warp the panels or cause oil canning, cuz if you're unskilled, damage can occur, and basically wreck the car, whether it's heat, or "shot peening" (usually caused when the pressure's set way too high) at that point, it's damaged, and the result is the lengthy tone it takes to fix all that...
On the other hand, I've seen ppl destroy cars by using those stripping discs, cuz they worked too long on an area, heated the panel, and that's it, even unskilled welding can ruin your whole day on panel repair
I've recently had a vw bug body blasted, and it turned out pretty good, no oil canning, got all the rust, and they didn't blast the roof or the center of the doors, for they said it will wreck the parts.
Travis, I’m a fan! This is a fantastic conversation with tons of information. Like to see Chris’s progress down the road as well. Love how he wants to honor his family.
Thank you for watching!!
I have a 57 Chevy 150 that was a pretty decent car that I got convinced to have dustless blasted about 10 years ago. Completely ruined the car. Like you said , the wet sand gets compacted everywhere and will never all come out. I should of known better.
I will dry sandblast jambs and gutters on cars I do myself in a very controlled way to help limit sand getting everywhere. Its a lot of work , but some places you just cant strip any other way.
Great video Travis. Very relatable.
Thank you!
So glad SylvesterCustoms is here... my 1968 Impala fastback is become closer to me.Love your one on one!... on this personal building of anyone's car!... ty so much!!!
Thank you!!!
I've been doing body work since 1983 and sand blasting is perfectly safe. BUT not for the sheet metal. It is fine for engine compartment, trunk, underside. There will be zero warp, zero damage, as long as you use common sense. I've done it over and over with no problems. It is fast and effective. If you're worried then use Starblast abrasive by Dupont. I agree about the water blasting, a bad bad idea.
Blasting exterior panels is what I’m referring to. We blast the engines bays etc just not exterior metal. As for your comment about zero warp …. Anything that is abrasive enough and pits the metal causes warp it just doesn’t matter in an engine bay or trunk.
Wow another great video. Very well explained . Very impressive and informative. I have nothing but Respect for you guys. And Chris thank you for sharing and helping me to plug forward and refusing to give up. I’ve been struggling a little on my metal finishing projects and have to go over them repeatedly. Another thing you mentioned ,( was it paint jail??) I work in a shop where they take on more work while other work goes on the back burner and they have me jumping from one carto another without any car actually being finished I don’t understand it or like it but that’s what’s happening
Thanks so much for these videos. Working my first car and learning so much a 1970 mustang that well had a hard life . Learning with the tips and real life make it seem more like friends talking than those tv shows and magazines . learning more and watching more . keep it coming.
Thank you for watching!
So true, my best left field thoughts on how to approach something in a different way come to me during my sleep.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
As a dealer service tech, I had some super hard electrical / electronics that are not in a schematic I could study.
But, like Steve, I think, but I would take the dogs outside at 3AM and have 3 things I wanted to test, try or do once back at work! Strange to be in a deep sleep yet your brain is still thinking about problems and new ideas to try that could fix it. I don’t know but I think this is what he might be saying.
Sylvester, you said it best, from experience or a class you took, but looking around the garage, metal scrap pile or whatever, then an idea comes and you say to yourself…Let’s try this approach.
We are problem solvers, not limited by a box of “Right & “Wrongs”. I find it amazing take we can solve problems or come up with a new approach awake, or asleep! I have heard it said that we only use 3% of our brains power, but technical guys / gals can come up with a new approach new used to fix a problem right in front of us!
Love the channel, ideas, best practices and product knowledge you provide. Hope this makes sense!
It just happens and “Hey, I saw that method used on Sylvester’s video” what a compliment. Great info with this project and how to overcome!
Great info!!' Thanks for saving us the headaches 🙏🏼💪🏽💪🏽🤘🏽
great information in this video this channel should take off thank you for all your videos i have enjoyed them all
Glad you like them!
you're a really solid dude we appreciate the raw honesty we rock with you 100%
Very much appreciated!
Thanks guys. That was very inspirational. My 37 olds trunk lid has been my procrastinating point. It has a thick structure inside and it once had a license plate sunk into the middle of it. The filler is a little thick there and it cracked.
I've been dreading fixing the metal. But now I know it's time to sack up and get it done! Thanks.
Awesome thanks for watching!
I am a life long tech, now retired. You inspire me to keep on working using what I have learned from Travis, but reading your posted comments keep me going thru my pain & challenges.
I enjoy learning and watched the new sandblast video about 7 times as Hans had learned as well. I may shoot for perfect but will settle for real darn fine! DK, ASE Master
You guys did a great job on this informative video! Just great! Thank you for the free education.
Thank you very much!
I've been blasting cars for 3 years. If done right, you will never have an issue. It's about experience. The right grit and pressure and time in place.
Yeah well aware. We’re referring to sand not other medias like plastic, walnut, soda etc however anything abrasive is doing damage
Great help; terrific info to help us DIYs !! Keep it coming.
Thanks, will do!
Very informative video. Ive often wondered about blasting but didn't realize the damage that occurs when metal is blasted. I even asked on your last vid about the dustless blasting and now know better. Sorry that Chris had his car blasted and now has more work instead of less. I have 2 cars that need to be stripped and now I'm thinking of other ways to get it done. Thanks for all the info it is appreciated.
Awesome glad to hear it
Thanks for the video! Pure quality 👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great discussion! Thanks for putting the words of warning out there…
Any time!
Great information ! Hope this guy gets the car restored to the level he’s shooting for.
He will lol he just quit his job and came to work in the shop with us 👌🏻
LOL
Yup, I think you hit on several topics that would have been nice to know years ago. First of all I never sand blasted anything until recently and yes it does pit the metal and causes more work than if I would have just sanded it. Also, used Kleen Strip metal prep after the sandblasting only because the bracket I needed to remove was still fairly rusty underneath. I did not know about using this method on sandblasted metal, now I have to sand it down anyway. Luckily for me, the pieces are just a radiator support and inner fender skirt. Also, I can understand about the sand collecting in the panels and holding in moisture causing rust, my truck was from El Paso Tx ((desert area) and the sand did exactly that. Finally, just fixing the rusted portion is key to fixing some of these panels. I did not realize how much replacing a full door skin would cause more problems with getting the proper door gaps around the door. I should have just replaced the bottom section only. So, I guess it's live and learn. Thanks for all the great content! I will be continuing to watch your channel
Thank you very much
Great content! Love seeing you two boys together on camera. I need to fly out and visit soon. Keep bringing the good stuff my dudes. And great editing Mikey! 💪💪
Thank you joe!!
That's so cool that you want to do a tribute to your family!! That's gonna be a beautiful ride when you get it finished. Had a 66 also really miss it. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun enjoy
Thanks for the comment. Chris has since quit his job and has gone full time building custom cars with me so it should help his caprice project 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS that's super cool you guys will definitely work good together can't wait to see updates. Thanks again
SHOULD LOOK GOOD ONCE SKIM COATED WITH BONDO LOL ITS DONE .
There is so much info here... its epic
Thank you!!
I had my 66 convertible media blasted and epoxy powered coated. No oil canning whatsoever. Every panel is solid.
Some do it better than others. However just because it’s not oil canning I guarantee it warped panels slightly. Most people don’t care it’s just how close are you evaluating the panel with a hard block and 150 grit I guarantee there’s warpage there you just don’t see it.
Just bought master set linear blocks with your code, thanks a lot !
Awesome!! Every bit helps on savings
Great Video Travis, its so true all you said about blasting, I learnt myself the hard ways as youve described here, and once I discovered chemical dipping I was sold on it. yes it can be expensive but its time saved in not having to A: correct distortions , and B: its clean and gets rid of rust from all the areas the blasting cannot react IE cavities etc, and there is no Media stuck in annoying places. Love the videos, congrats on the channel growth
Thank you very much we greatly appreciate it!
I’ve been to countless shows and I have seen many expensive cars ruined by dipping. It leaches out of seems and bubbles the paint years later or often sooner. It can’t be removed or neutralized in hidden seems and tight places where metal overlaps! Ur car.
@@terencemeigs4091 Likewise, I've talked to several restoration shops that don't like it.
However a lot will say if you are willing to cut open any enclosed box sections during the resto and then when done follow it up with an E-Coat dip then its usually ok. If you don't plan on dipping it again in E-coat then forget it
I come from an industrial blast/paint background - was considering walnut, pecan or surgar sand blasting my malibu and throwing talc heavy 2 part surface tolerant epoxy to sand and smooth it out ... great video, making me think a new strategy
Awesome soda blasting is also great 👍🏻
Great channel love the content...just throwing in my 2 cents.... I've had 3 cars blasted ...all by reputable shops and never had any warping issues that I could see... but....what I did was chemically strip and losen the paint first...I was told by the blasters that is came right off... so idk maybe that helped? Idk but I think there are good blasters out there!! Also the reason for warpage is NOT heat related ..it's the shot peening affect from the material hitting the metal..
Thank you. Did you watch the whole video? We specifically mention that it’s not the heat. Some are better then others but all have some level of warpage
I've got a lot of experience when it comes to sandblasting of equipment and vehicles and I'm very familiar with panel warping. You definitely need to keep a good distance and make fast sweeping motions and never stop in one place. Think of sandblasting as painting if you hold the paint gun too close or don't keep moving you will get a run, same thing with sandblasting except you will get warpage on any flat surface such as a hood door or fenders. Always keep moving sometimes circular motions work well.
Regardless it’s still warping. Each particle that is abrasive is shot peening the sheet metal stretching it. Those tips help to minimize it but it needs to be known that it does stretch it.
Throwing all Sandblasters under the bus is more of a blanket statement that is a matter of opinion. I too have blasted many cars. I admit to having had a bad experience with a hood at the beginning of my career (fatigue being a factor). That said, I learned from the mistake and understand my "craft" after years of doing this type of work.
What you have presented in this particular sandblasting event is a justified upset client. Obviously an inexperienced blaster was hired. One that fell for the sales pitch of making big $$$ without effort....thanks to marketing schemes out of the State of Texas.
Yep, better believe it a car can be trashed very quickly in the hands of someone that does not have a heart for details.
In your videos, I Love your heart of detail, experience and explanation of your work. It that shows you know your "craft" with great wisdom and passion. ( I'll gladly watch them all)
Question. Has anyone ever had an off day where you made a mistake? Maybe it was welding, using a grinder or DA in one spot too long etc....
Anyway I understand that your experience leaves you without trust in the sandblasting process. I also understand you aren't coming to the middle of the U.S. to use my service. Not even certain why I wanted to voice my opinion. There are several great points made by previous replies. Most likely those guys also sandblast as a craft. There is more to the craft than point and shoot. Sandblasters can be more complex and well rounded than what you see on the surface.
My 2cents.
Thanks for all your effort in producing the great videos.
God bless.
I totally agree! As for me or my guys making mistakes. Absolutely we all make mistakes it’s how we grow and get better the only reason I’m good at my craft is you name it I’ve screwed it up. As for the details in your craft I agree and that is why I have a idea on proving how sandblasting affects sheet metal soon. It will cover the good and the bad on a very high level and break it all down for you. I’m hoping to do this demonstration soon.
I have a Dustless Blasting unit that uses water and does not warp the metal. Its not a perfect system but does a great job on rust.
Please explain how you can guarantee that? Do you do bodywork after?
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Its the DB 150 the smallest one they make. I just use it for my own vehicles. Blasting inside the car wet is a hassle. If the car is on a rotiserie it helps to have it upside down . I like to use a air hammer to vibrate the sand out.
I have done many hoods and roofs with no warping at all.
The best way to strip I think is to have it dipped if possible . I have also striped many cars with the good old 8 inch foam pad and 40 or 80 grit discs.
I put the metal in epoxy primer, normaly PPG DPLF just as soon as possible and body filler over the epoxy primer.
Your videos are great...you do a good job of explaining things....keep them coming.
Subscribed yesterday!
Great information!
I have a 67 Bronco that has a rattle can bed liner all over and I don't know how to get it off. I was told to have it walnut blasted but I don't know.
I think I'm gonna have to take my time and chemical strip small areas.
Any ideas?
Thanks for sharing your experience and talent!
Thank you. Hmmm shockingly I haven’t had to remove bed liner yet. But if walnut blasting works I think that’s a good option. Or send it to acid dip.
Great video. I am struggling with the decision of hiring someone to do the bodywork or do it myself. Your videos have given me the confidence to do the bodywork on my 1937 Nash coupe myself. Thanks and looking foreword to watching the rest of your videos.
Glad to help. More videos coming soon.
LOL
I'm doing my 1992 2 door Accord now.. Haven't really welded before, had a rust hole around the wheel arch to patch. I'm glad I'm practicing on my daily driver as small mistakes can truly slide.
It's taking forever as I've had to feel my way along
Just sand it down best way if you want a complete job !
I sandblasted my Holden coupe using dry garnet by a professional blaster in a booth , the job came out perfect and after he finished with air he blow all the sand out of all the nook and crannies then wash it with a chemical then sprayed a clear primer over it . So about the blast on his car must have been done by a dodgy blaster .
Did they use walnut? Or? Any material that does not pit the metal won’t stretch it. That’s the purpose of this video.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS did you read what i said ( used Garnet ) it puts a .3 of profile on the steel for the primer to attach it self to
Interesting concept/tip @ 18:45 to 19:30. Would like to see a video demonstrating/explaining this a little further.
I’m sure we will have a few areas like this when we get to the metal work on the 61 and we will be doing every step of the whole process and hopefully it helps you guys 👍🏻
Had truck blasted .omg destroyed outer panels .learned the hard way .blasting door jams floors ok. My shop I mechanicaly strip with wire wheels . Does not warp or heat panels . Or scar metal .last 5 vehicles this way i then DA primer residue off .. ready for metal work .. as always great information in your videos
A lot of us have learned this the hard way. Hopefully this saves a few people from it. Thank you for your comment. Hope you continue watching.
Good information.... could you address dry ice blasting sometime in the future ? Very curious about this fairly new technology.
If you can find someone to do it it’s an amazing process it just does not remove rust and then you will have to scuff the surface for mechanical adhesion but overall it’s great because it doesn’t warp anything
A terrible revelation for my '68 Camaro project. It was sandblasted 3 decades ago when I thought that was the best thing to fight the rust. Now I am mechanically removing most of the paint and bondo on the body...
Finaly somebody else understands it's not the heat it's the metal displacement. Years ago I was involved in a process of plastic media blasting that did not displace metal. Did nothing for rust, but great for paint and fillers. Rust is cut out and spot blasted anyway. Just left clean metal. Was a high volume low pressure process.
Yep that’s the best way to go about it 👌🏻
Apart from the risk of damaging the panels you also will never really get all the material removed from the car not matter how hard you try. I have have two cars blasted, one with garnet and the other soda and I was finding material in the car for a long time after. I'am currently doing a car now and have used paint stripper and strip disks to remove the paint in my engine bay.
Maaaan... how many guys thst have started on a car, disassembled it like a meth head, and it's been in the garage for five years with boxes on top of it and no progress.
This is definitely a video that is needed. I learned alot of this the hard way.
Yeah, most of the time we all learn things the hard way. We definitely don’t forget after these mistakes lol.
SO DID THIS GUY WITH HIS TOTALLED PROJECT WARP SPEED.
Great video , thank you , I would love to see a video on separating the inner structure from the hood , I've been thinking about doing that for a while now on a 61 bubble top hood that I have , I need to repair some rust and a few dings but the structure is in the way. Thanks again I just found your channel but I'll be following
Funny you request that. We’re building a 61 impala currently and I have to do that as well 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS nice ! Lol I'm still collecting parts for mine , but am almost at a starting point , let me know if you guys do that video please , I'm currently scrolling back through your past videos to see what I may have missed , great channel keep up the great work and thank you , merry xmas and happy holidays to you and your yours
@@mikealdag7309 merry Christmas!!
I was told you should sand blast stuff like the frame and heavy gauge metal's and that powder blasting was a better option for body panel's is this correct. ?
Correct 👍🏻
I knew that "blasting" could be destructive, but I guess I really had no idea. My 36 Chevy coupe is still in its primer after being blasted in about 1976. (that is how I purchased it) Is it possible that it may have been done conservatively since it was a relatively rust free Montana car?
Some guys are better than others. Once you block sand it with a polycarbonate block that’s rigid enough for the curve of the car you will see the warpage.
I'm in the buy a new trunk crowd. I understand the sentiment on keeping it as original as possible, but you have to think about your sanity!
Any suggestions for refinishing my 92’ Ram Charger? I’m about to start sanding like crazy. Was thinking about blasting but after watching Sylvester’s vids, I’m changing my approach
What’s your question
Is chemical dipping an option for getting at all the hidden rust? I know that's always been the debate, sandblasting vs dipping.
If it has any rust or cancer it neutralizes it you will still have to cut any excessive rust out obviously and then you need to coat inside where you can’t get after you’re done
So 20 yrs ago my dad glass bead blasted my chevelle and shot an industrial epoxy on it at his work. I know he was careful when blasting. The car has been sitting in primer for that long and I've noticed that the primer would flake off in small spots down to bare metal on body panels. I was thinking that the paint was to hard for body panels and became brittle. I know it was blown off good. I know that baking soda leaves a residue that needs to be washed off after, but im not aware if glass bead leaves a residue. Ive thought about stripping the industrial epoxy back off. Since my car has been blasted where should i go from here? Looking back i wish we would have used soda instead but here we are
Typically epoxy sticks great to glass bead I’m not sure why it’s flaking?
i stripped a number of cars with a polisher equipped with a sanding pad and 40grit disc. then i would use a .d.a. with 80grit to take the scratch finer. liquid stripper on parts that i could remove from the car and MUCH, MUCH more fun!.
Ya have to go dry ice blasting expressly for Italian cars
So is soda blasting okay or would you avoid that as well? Thanks.
It has pros and cons. It leaves a film and won’t remove rust. But I’d a decent option.
Do you reckon the frame can be blasted because the metal is thicker?
Absolutely. We also blast floors and inner structures. The only part that cannot is the outer skin.
question couldn't Chris use dry ice to help shrink the metal back in places that he is unable to get to?
No I wish that was the case.
How about that dry ice blasting? I know it's kinda pricey but for high end builds idk maybe some customers might do it.
If we had someone local to me that would be ideal
Okay so you mentioned sandblasting or media blasting as all it not to do it what do you recommend or anyone else watching this or reading this what do you guys recommend instead of sandblasting or Media Blasting to get all the paint off ? I understand mechanically grinding all the pain materials down to the bare metal but not get down in the cracks and crevices of panels so again I asked what would you recommend
Every project is a bit different. Most people either have time or money not typically both but if you had time I would use aircraft stripper and remove the paint everywhere you can get to or use a stripper disc. When it comes to the hard to get areas or structural on the inside I would sandblast or media, walnut media, there’s a ton of different ways to strip it. The only thing that really matters at the end of the day is that you are not using a media that will shot ping the exterior shell. Everything else can be done that way. Soda blasting is also a very good method however it does not remove rust. You can do a combination of things to get to the end result. It’s whatever works for you in your project we have other videos that discuss this scenario.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yes that's very true sir but what if there is surface for us down in the cracks and crevices that you cannot get to is there something I could put on that to neutralize it where it would hold paint
If your not going to blast it. Use rust mort.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS rust Mort?
Idk what that is and haven't heard of it before. Sorry to ask so many questions I have a project I am working on now up in the about the sad last day soda blasting watching your videos
@@timothymaiden1345 Neutralizes the rust there’s videos on RUclips showing exactly what it is I do not have any information for videos on that product currently you just put it on and let it sit overnight scuff it up and shoot it in the morning
so is there a video on the best practices for stripping paint
Yes, if you go all the way back to our very beginning videos
Here's another good explanation on this from another restorer. Plastic media blasting is really the best. It doesn't etch the metal. It does not remove rust though. Better than chemical also. Some panels (hoods, tops) have a factory adhesive between the inner frame and the outside panel. Chemical dips remove this. I know a guy that didn't discover this on his hood until the final block sand and they couldn't block it flat. It kept bowing under pressure. The outer skin had no support. He had to replace the hood. ruclips.net/video/x3q8eRTydEo/видео.html
What do you recommend for a class?
We have one this month and in June email me sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
On minute 5:17 he said he mechanically remove it using what???? I can't understand Travis either. Thank you!!
Using the Eastwood SCT it’s a stripper barrel
Travis, would love to see a video of stripping with an sct tool. I started stripping a 63 Impala today and after 4 hours with stripping drum, I’m almost done with roof lol. It certainly doesn’t transfer much heat if you go easy but it sure is time consuming. Maybe there’s a better drum I’m not hip to.
Awesome content as usual keep it up man!!
Yeah it takes a while. The 40 grit is the best drum there is.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ok that’s what I’m using so that makes me feel better. Thanks for the response
How many man hours do you think it would take a full time pro to get this car finished and on the road? On a scale of 1 to 100 how straight can this car get with a full time pro doing the body work?
To many variables. How much cancer and warpage to be fixed? Is drivetrain being swapped? How many people are working on the build they all vary. For me a full build if it’s just me only dedicated. Probly two years give or take.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
Good response. I tell my boss( with no hands on experience)all the time that you can't estimate jobs like these. It isn't collision work. Too many variables is right. I know most people want that number but it's very difficult to hit. If you shoot high, you may lose a job. Too low and you'll tie your own rope.At my shop, it's billed as time and materials. Seems to be mutually beneficial.
@@MAn-ti3ul 15 grand won’t get you much.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
That's the truth. Ours out the door are running between 120k and 250k complete. The average cost just for sprayables(primers,sealers,base, clear) is around 4k. Sometimes higher depending on colour choice and graphics. That only leaves about 10k for labour and materials. Financial suicide. My personal shop is billed time and materials only. Mutually beneficial.
@@class5bodyworks you sir are on the money. 💯💯
Where and when are your and Kens classes?
Nvm you just answered the question.
I had a rust free hood and trunk ruined because I paid to have only the under side blasted....
Any abrasive that will put the metal if it is hitting the exterior panel it will do that. It can be fixed tho
The trick is you set the alarm in the middle of the night and you will remember your dream there is the other half of your brain your subconscious mind working and having better ideas then your normal mind. I hope I’m not freaking anyone out. You usually forget your dreams that’s why you set the alarm for hours after you go to sleep.
No joke!! 👍🏻
Soooo, the rotisserie was designed primarily for emptying out the sand from blasting? 🤔 I always thought it was to help "brokedown body/paint guys" (as myself 😁) in actual bodyworking of the car (aiding in adjustable height of the panels etc.) Lol....And yeah, sandblasting doorjambs,all the crooks and crevices is fine 👍 NOT acual EXTERIOR panels most generally, and...You'll be fine 😎👌
Not primarily for sandblast.
ROLLING ON THIS VIDEO LOL
I live in the northeast sandblasting a whole car or taking the whole thing to bare metal at home would be a mistake.
Sandblasting anywhere causes damage.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS very true I've only ever done frames with a sandblaster the clean up alone isn't worth it to me .if I can't get it coated the same day I strip it then I have to worry about flash rusting.
And just remember guys....dont be intimidated ITS ONLY PAINT 🤣🤣
What about plastic media blasting , it doesn’t open all the paws in the metal like sand does .
That’s ideal honestly. But it won’t remove heavy rust.
Soda blasting or remove by sand paper is best less destructive and less chance for any
Warpage.
You are not wrong 👊🏻
100K SUBS FOR YOU!!❤🤍💙AUSTRALIA!!
Thank you!
Soda blasting
It’s talked about 👌🏻
Its better to use stripper like "coopers strip club" then follow up with an eastwood sct to finish the metal cleanup.
Yep acid dipping is the best in my opinion
It takes a true gearhead to part out his whole car for down payment on his house yet still keep the actual car.👍
You could always buy a re-pop hood 🤷♂️ Goodmark, Dynacorn, OER?
I’m not sure if they make a trunk for this particular car I do not believe they do
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS they do for an impala. Not sure if there are any differences in the trunk.
Bad ass! #goducks
Walnuts and glass or soda blast
Glass also stretches. Walnut and soda doesn’t. We have a video on this subject that’s tested and shown
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS i blasted my 62 on walnuts n glass came out smooth
DAMN DUDE, EDIT... A 45 min video that could be 15-20 mins
Perfect user name right here. 😂
If a person can find a original body part and the cost and time has to out-way the part you need to rework that needs replaced and you still have by replacing it with the original part a original part .The time and money and the overall job of trying to rework a part that’s been actually destroyed unless it’s impossible to find or the cost’s our greater than fixing the existing part it makes it unfeasible to fix the part otherwise
Can’t replace sentimental value though
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS the car has sentimental value is the car not the deck lid and if it does have sentimental value you would want it right and as perfect as possible and if that’s the case about the deck lid he should try and weld the piece he cut off . Then everything would be original but he ruined that when he cut off what he says has sentimental value of whoever painted the picture and ruined the deck lid
I blasted using aluminum oxide with no issues.
Yeah ok 🙄
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Yup. Never use sand it requires too much pressure because the granules are round. Silica is dangerous to breathe anyway.
Sucks that blasters would even do a car they should know better dipping is worth the cash every time great video great subject.
Most don’t know what specifically happened
Well 1st it isn't sand, it is a media of some type. The blasting probably didn't cause his problems, it probably already had issues from other factors. Blasting may cause an issue on a large panel like a top or lid, but no t in the sides and quarters. It may cause a little heat with the blasting process but any issues it does cause is because of peening and work hardening.
You need to watch our latest video we broke down a full demonstration of media blasting and how it affects sheet metal that has nothing on it
Look up COOPER'S STRIPPER from NEW ZEALAND - they ship to the USA. A 'million' times better than so-called aircraft strippers. Walnut blasting doe not damage the metal, neither will plastic media. Grit type media will - HA - ask me how I know- HA. But honestly, have a look at the COOPER's - well worth a try. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA
I’ll check it out! Thank you. You are correct it will not pit the metal with walnut or plastic media downside is it won’t remove rust also.
Shoot. Sorry. I guess you guys are talking about sandblasting the entire body (body panels, hood doors, fenders, quarters and roof) if so, man sorry! I'm sure ever panel is toast. We only have door jambs, engine compartment, trunk jambs blasted. Only panel we would sandblast is the floor pans and frame if it had one. We always hand strip the body panels. Be it chemical or mechanical. Best of luck.
You don't have to go to mechanical stripping you can do dustless sandblasting and not run into the risks of sandblasting. Sandblasting makes heat and heat warps metal. Same thing with the size of the aggregate that you use. If you use fine grit sand and dustless sandblasting it will not warp. It will take longer than sandblasting or dustless with a larger media but it's quicker than mechanical and leaves you a perfect finish.
I hate when there are videos that don't explain the whole process before they demonize it.
Not every solution is for every job. I would never recommend sandblasting but I would recommend dustless sandblasting provided that you understand how it works. Prep is the key just like it is with anything else and will affect your finished product as far as clean up.
I 100 % disagree with you. You are incorrect. It is the sand particle or the abrasive that is stretching the sheet metal. Not only is Dustless sandblasting bad it is horrible when the wet sand gets into all of the rockers and you cannot get it out at least when it is dry you can get it out to an extent. You must be new to the channel because we describe this exact process in great detail so I am not just throwing out information that is not relevant. If you would like more education on this process feel free to watch the series on the 49 Willys hood.
Why not just let him fix it?
Let him fix what?
I really feel for this guy, watching this video really bummed me out. I'm hoping he can realize his dream and get his ride back in order.
Fast forward to today he quit his job and now works for me actively learning and improving to build his dream 👍🏻
Whoever you had blasting it didn't know what they were doing if you had warped or wavy panels. As far as never sandblasting a car, that is bullshit. If your blaster knows what he is doing, he will profile the metal without causing damage so that your base coat has a proper "anchor" to adhere to.
You are actually wrong and we will be breaking this down in a video dropping this coming Friday
Replace the trunk lid. Half the skin isn't original anyway, and that weld seam is going to be a problem.
Weld seams can be hammer and dollied out or plannished out. But I agree a lot more work.
If your media blaster is using sand, wet blasting the interior of a vehicle and warping panels he is most likely inexperienced and ignorant. When done correctly, media blasting is the ideal surface preparation for paint adhesion. When a vehicle is blasted correctly, you should be able to apply your DTM primer immediately after blasting with nothing more to do than to brush and blow off the surface. Today recycled, crushed glass is the primary Media for Blasting vehicles. It creates a 1 to 3 mil profile for the best adhesion possible. I would take the Pepsi challenge any day of the week.
I’ll be breaking down the good bad and the ugly in a video soon to prove what we discussed. You aren’t wrong but I want people to understand every aspect of what you may or may not want. Even crushed glass will warp.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Are you or have you ever been a commercial abrasive media blaster?
There is nothing wrong with sandblasting if you pay attention and know what you are doing. To blast large areas is not hard. Turn the air pressure down, on a pressure pot turn it down to the point where the plunger seals the pot. Stand back. Don't put the nozzle close to the substrate/surface. Pay attention to what you are doing. STAY BACK. I have used Dupont Starblast and silica sand with no issues.
Yes there is actually
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS been doing this since 1974 lol. Nace certification. If you know how to actually sandblast you would not have a problem.
I totally understand where you’re coming from and I’m not discrediting how long you have been doing it however, if you are doing a Metal Finishing where there is zero ripples in the sheet metal, I assure you anything that you sandblast that is abrasive enough to put the metal, even if it’s not a ton it is stretching the metal the only way you will be able to see that is with a acrylic block and some blue loud fluid. We will actually be doing a demonstration on exactly this process. It’s not something you’re going to feel with your bare hand and that’s why most people don’t think it affects it but if you look at it closely it does.
We’re going to be doing a video breaking down these different abrasive different techniques things to consider because a lot of people try to jump into this and they use someone who is not savvy with the process that needs to happen but there’s definitely a time and a place and a technique absolutely agree
I know what you are talking about. Stop take a break from what you are working on. I was an electrician at Ford Motor Co. When a machine would break down, you need to get it running as soon as you can. After 4 or 5 hours work and able to find the problem. Just taking a 20min break, walking back “ bing “ there is the answer
SODA BLASTING IS THE BETTER WAY TO GO , SODA BLASTING WILL NOT REMOVE RUST , REGULATING THE PRESSURE AT THE LINE , DISTANCE , CAN MINIMIZE WARPAGE !!!!
You are correct. The best method is acid dipping
Ur statement about Sand blasting is partly inaccurate! Unless u have done it u don’t have the expertise to make the claims u have. I have done it along w plastic media blasting which does no damage to even glass! I used a extremely fine sand used to make glass for rust like powder Sugar almost. Course Sand will do a lot of damage! There is a tremendous amount of heat from blasting w sand so distance is key. Watch a sand blaster at the nozzle at night its like a blow torch! Extremely fine sand is key and does not put or shot peen the metal. I can guarantee no warpage and no pitting. U can prime right over it and never know it was done!! After I finished either I blew the car out jntill I couldn’t get any more residual media. Never had one aingle complaint and plastic hold no moisture nor does it remove the phosphate coating originally on the metal. The only method that doesn’t ! I could literally drive the car in the rain wo any rust. Which I did for shows and often transported in the rain.
Come on over and show us. Would be so much easier to be wrong on this. Just hasn't been the case.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I’m sure I’ll haul $30,000 in stationary equipment hundreds of miles to prove someone wrong that speaks wo any experience in blasting.
Well I don’t know what to tell you. You aren’t looking at your work close enough. I assure you that you are warping panels. We tested all of these methods. We even took two pieces of metal spaced 4” apart and put a 3/8” hole stood far back and shot the smallest glass bead they sell and it will shot peen the metal ever so slightly. We do metal finishing and unless you understand metal and how it moved you can talk till you are blue in the face. You are wrong bottom line. I wish you were right but even the so called high end shops don’t know what they are looking at.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS tell u what I’ll bet my equipment against what ever u have worth $30,000 I can blast any flat panel u have an not warp it! Put up or shut up!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS PS. I’ve done metallurgy testing and ya I k ow metal! Not all People sand blasting know what they are doing. I’ve done a lot of cars even my own and never warped a panel. I don’t use glass either as it is too coarse I’ll even but u I can blast a panel them out one coat of primer on it and one that’s been hand stripped and primed and u can’t tell me which is which.
Sand blasting the car wasn't the problem, If you don't know what you're doing then you will make a lot of mistakes. Using air pressure, the Media that you use, The distance you are away from the job while blasting makes a difference..... Doing it DIY you will RUIN the out come of the job !!!! Use a Professional..
FYI he did not do the car himself he had hired a “professional”. A different media needs to be used not sand. But you are correct distance/angle and pressure do play a big part.
So glad I just saw this video. Was considering getting our truck blasted. I will be using stripper and mechanical removal.
Thank you thank you!
You are such an expert on many things and I enjoy watching you teach people youngsters how they need to do auto body work and restoration.
However the title name, here, Don’t Sand blast? That’s false information. Your now regurgitated information that people see and now say don’t sand blast. It’s incorrect. You are wrong. Ive media blasted many cars using crushed glass without issue. Blasting is the same skill set as one needs for doing anything on these cars. You need to know what you are Doing. Every square inch of the service that was sandblasted was ruined. What the f$)k ??? Surely if you don’t have skills you are going to screw it up. But you are now saying no one knows how to do blasting?
OMG just because someone does a bad job on a car with their limited skill set,,,you cant bad mouth the entire industry where it’s been working well for 100 years!!!
Stick to whaat you know and you will continue to get positive feedback.
But branch off into areas you are not skilled yourself with and then go around telling others it’s a bad idea to even hire a pro to media blast your car that’s like listening to you saying ,”I’m an Idiot so don’t listen to me ever again.”
You sure you want that? Stick to your shop and what you do and stop spreading bad information. If possible. People cannot afford to have entire cars chemically dipped!
And they also cannot be sanded entirely by hand inside and out to remove every inch of rust. Not with a DA.
I will still follow you regardless of this poor video you’ve just done about warped metal whenever someone sand blasts cars. It’s not called sand blasting! It’s media blasting. And when done properly just like you when you block a car to glass-there is no warping of metal when media blasting even thin gauge metal on new cars. By you saying that you can’t do a hood or trunk or the top of the roof you’re wrong again. Using the right air pressure of the right media you can blast anything without manipulating the metal. You can physically feel the warmth from media blasting. Keep that heat down and there is no warpage. These are the things you needed to say. Not- don’t sand blast whatever you do!
If you’d like to get technical I’d be happy to show you. “Technically” anything abrasive that pits metal is shot peening the metal which is stretching it. Can some stretch it less… sure. However the media used and air pressure makes a difference which is also talked about on our channel. Some have their pros and cons yada yada some strip the metal but do not remove rust, some remove the rust but stretch it as every little particle will cause some level of damage. I’ve spent a lot of time and money doing metal finishing. So if in fact you are a so called pro feel free to come on down I’ll show you how to properly sand blast only inner structural areas. But you are dead wrong if you think it has zero affect on the skins. I’d be happy to educate you on what you obviously don’t know.
If I share what I know, maybe we would both be retired if I could send you a message privately you would invent something but I’m not gonna post it here. Send a message on Facebook and I will tell you the idea it’s all simple you would say why the hell did I not think of that?
Yes, please shoot me a message on Facebook or Instagram