Liquid Permeation Check After 1 Year: GPU Hybrid
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2017
- Just a diagnostics/"check-up" video. We're looking at our Titan Xm that we modded about a year ago, which recently began driving 90C core temperatures.
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Игры
Hey all. This isn't meant to be some sort of deep-dive/heavily data-driven content. It's just a diagnostics we had to run on the card anyway, so decided to film it. Filmed this back in November, I think. We haven't touched the card since then, but will probably throw another cooler on it and see if it gets going.
Looks good!
About that 4 pin adapter: I have a 1080ti ftw3, do you know where I can buy one for my Gpu? Or if you know the pinout of the connector or where to find it.
maybe the connection between the fanheader and the pump, so the cooler works on an external psu thingy, but might not have gotten power from the card it self.
and yes we love LIVESTREAMS!!!
Could it be something in the cards bios?
i have a feeling that the header for the pump stopped working which made the pump not do anything
Steve,in my experience with electric motors and diagnosing problems,I have a suggestion to help rule out your problem:Just because the motor is spinning while the pump is disassembled, doesn't necessarily mean it is spinning fine under load.You should clean your coldplate,throw it back on and submerge the pump just enough to try to get it to pump fluid into the radiator.Or maybe there's an impeller issue.Just a suggestion,but keep up the good work nontheless.
Good idea! Thanks for the suggestion.
Agreed. Pretty much this.
took the words right outta my mouf
Hmmm what would be the difference between it spinning up dissessmbled vs under load? I'm sure I look like an idiot asking but I'm a curious idiot.
@@killtyrant under load aka pumping fluid, you have a resistance in the system that will allow you to see if any work is being done. If the impeller has come.loose from the motor shaft it won't want to pump fluid because the shaft is just spinning while the impeller just sits there. I've seen that particular problem on everything from cars and trucks to large and small pumps driven by engines and electric motors.
I had a similar issue as yours, I have re-applied thermal paste and tightened everything properly and the temps came down to 58 from 90+. Pump causes vibrations and they loosen the screws through long time if they are not tightened properly to begin with...
Šarūnas Šar Even when fasteners are torqued correctly, they can still come loose over time with load (or abuse.) Locktite goes a long way.
Same thing happened to me. I thought for sure my card had died, but when I reapplied thermal paste and put the stock cooler back on it worked perfectly. Just bad contact between GPU and cold-plate.
Use a drop of locktite and how you never have to take it back apart
@@LegendMuscle and never be able to take apart even if you wanted lol ...
Somebody give this poor guy a tissue.....
He's got a full rool, I don't know why he didn't use it.
Another great teardown/analysis video, which was one of the reasons why i subscribed to your channel. Keep up the good work. Thanks.
Always enjoy your vids man, very informative.
I don't see any problems with the way you tested it, it's very obviously not permeation. Love the vids! I would be interested in seeing the same CLC refilled and put back on, and see if contact was it or if it keeps overheating.. maybe it's a clog somewhere in the closed loop. There was definitely a lot of schmoo in the block, could be even more in the rad.
Good thought. Worth shooting some high pressure water through there to see if more comes out.
shcmoo? are you canadian? lol jk. also the header for the pump might not be pushing enough voltage\current anymore for some reason or could be non operational but im sure you listened to the card before you took it out. you mentioned bad contact, theres that. idk what else it could be betwenn what gamer taboo said and what you have already tested
bobhumplick As a Canadian, I can confirm that "schmoo" is not one of our slang words haha
@StevenHerbs oh ok. i just watch that guy who does the tool tear downs. i think the channel name is somehting like AVE or somehting. he's from canadia and hes always talking about "schmoo" comes "chooching" out of this or that.
Ya I watch a lot of AvE. He is Canadian but I think he makes his own slang... but I'm sure he's either heard it from others or others around him have picked it up from him as well haha.
just wanted to say, should weigh it to determine if the amount of liquid is different.
I had one of those coolers and the pump motor ran fine but the impellers had come detached from the motor when under load.
Definitely enjoyable to watch. I have an EVGA GTX 260 Superclocked that used to get up 100°. I'm amazed it didn't fry itself. I took it apart, cleaned it, and put new thermal paste on it. That dropped the load temperatures 25°-30°. I still have it in my old PC.
Not particularly related to this video, but thank you Gamers Nexus for doing the level of testing and analysis that you do. The raw numbers of different components stacked against each other really helps pull back the curtain to reveal real performance. You're videos helped me immensely in deciding what components are right for me!
Love the dedication to science, keep up the great work :D
Would love a video on you guys refilling one of these Asetek's.
Great Vidja Steve. Now I know how a pump looks like inside :) have a great day bro
Do you think that using a handheld or sort of pencil type/mini impact drill/driver would help open up these asetek pumps? I know you have to put alot of pressure but maybe pressure + impact driver will make it less of a chore?
I had the same issue. I bought a cheap AIO cooler off ebay and swapped the copper cpu block from my old cooler since it was designed for cpu with the raised plate and the replacement aio was for cpu and is flat.
Hi, I have had similar issues with my EVGA 1080 FTW hybrid purchased in June. It overheated to 90C (no graphics artifact though) and the pump wasn't spinning. I didn't do anything other than shaking the tube very hard and laying the whole case (Air540) flat instead of standing up, and it came back on working and no problem since. It might have been bubbles blocking the pump or something. Good to know that leaking is minimal.
Good channel m8 👌🏻
Ive got a question, got an old 750w power supply where it only has 2 - 4pin connectors for the gpu's and my friend just given me 2 gtx 770 but the power connectors is 1 - 6pin and 1 - 8pin on each, if I ground out A and B sense on the 8pin connector will I need 12v on pin2 on the 6pin connector?
Cool video! I would have tested the pump before opening it up. Just removing the plate might have been enough to get it going again.
Interesting, check if the pump works under load. Could you do a review on aftermarket cooling kits that fit all gpu's like arctic accelero?
I would have just put fresh paste with same cooler, at least now I know how much is in one of those coolers lol. Good vid man
@Gamers Nexus Love the content of this video; I've always wondered about the amount of liquid in these AIO's. Also...Had to hit the restroom after listening to that liquid pour. Ha!
One of the inductors at 3:58 looks like it desoldered itself.. Interestingly it is where the wet thermal pad was located. It takes a lot of heat to desolder something with that much thermal mass.
I've been running a Corsair H100i GTX for about a year now and I recently upgraded to a new case. I could hear sloshing when I removed the radiator. Not much, but enough to let me know that there's air in it and I need to keep an eye on it.
I had the same issue. The issue seems to have been air in the pump/lines, because it started randomly when it was booted up, then was solved by shifting my radiator around and booting it up again. My radiator is top mounted, which I realize is not optimal, but I have little choice with my case.
the liquid on the pads is from the pads i once took my laptop cooler out and the pads on the v-ram had also some kind of grease on them
Something to consider for you guys based on your comments regarding the screws being easy to strip. There's a japanese screwdriver in JIS #2 (Philips #2 but less cam), and it's got
an impact hammer mechanism built in. You put the bit into the screw. And then hammer the back of the screwdriver. Which causes it to cam ten degrees counter clockwise. The idea is to have downward force prevent stripping, and the movement of the impact hammer is just enough to break a tight seal or corroded screw.
I think it goes by the name Impacta 930 screwdriver. Not expensive either.
Jirekianu ty for mentioning that, it seems like a handy tool to add to my tool belt at the very least, though I would hesitate to use anything that requires a hammer with electronics. Especially when you could use something like a speed out bit with a drill.
were the screws not PH2? Just asking
Your hair looks amazing in the thumbnail Steve.
Can a reference 980ti cooler fit on the titan? Like a twin frozer or any cooler that uses the 980ti reference pcb
"Fuck these Asetek plates.."
I love your honesty, Steve.
I’ve always found thermal paste to be the culprit. Quick replace and it’s good as new.
You could be suffering from hydraulic pump out on the thermal paste when it warms up. There were a lot of problems with this when people were delidding CPU's and 3 to 6 months later started getting thermal runaway. When they reopened it and repasted it the problem was fixed temporarily.
Mine runs at 25c... so it's still ok????, just gotta figure out this split framing when I move the mouse to quick
What you're seeing on the bottom of the cooler is Silicone liquid/gel that oozed out of the thermal pads. My 980 Classified was soaked in that shit when I dissassembled it immediately after purchasing new.
i think we all want to know: what kind of shampoo do you use?
more like, HOW MUCH
I ask it every time he has one of his "ask gamers Nexus"- videos.. never getting an answer. :'(
Shampoo performance benchmarks
About the vga to fan header cable at 14:15, Gelid does sleeved PWM ones for really cheap. Currently using one with my Kraken G12 & MSI afterburner to control the radiator fan speed.
I need help from someone possibly! I have 2 of these cards and they both do the same thing. Cards work fine on a 32 inch tv. As soon as I load a game the screen goes black or green and pc is unusable. Have to power cycle it. Then works fine. When I try to connect to my 4k tv it does the black/green screen after pressing the space bar to log into windows 10. I’ve ordered new thermal paste hoping this is the problem. I’ve tried different drivers and have done ddu uninstall and such.
Could you weigh the card when you get it and then weigh the card over time to confirm that you aren't having permeation?
8:32 what is the name of this cable, to connect to the power the water pump and see if it is working?
Nice diagnostics/"check-up" video, do a series of them.....
loose contact seems like a common problem, i installed around 3 of these on my 1080 ti's and all were performing great except one. tightened the screws on her and the performance was vastly improved.
where can i get an EVGA HYBRID Cooler kit for a 2080 ti ?
Could you check temps with a thermal imaging camera?
thanks for the vid ! i have a similar issue with a card from a mining rig. nice to see your steps and thinking it gave me some new ideas.
Might want to check the flow though the radiator as well can be a choke point
As a test method, I would have simply filled the cooler back up and seen how much more it took to reach "full" but ietoPh1 had a great idea too.
Get some ez grip or even some valve grinding compound on the tip of the screw driver and it’ll keep them from stripping out. You only need alittle dab. They even make special Phillips heads that have alittle bit of an edge to get a bit. They cost more but I think the last longer and I rarely strip screws with them.
Could you check if the gpu fan lead works, i think that might be the issue here
Did you guys record this video at an earlier date? The mod mat is gone, and blue one you used to use is instead on the table, unless you just got tired, of getting thermal paste on the Mod Mat.
A couple of things I know to not do, and to try.
1. Slowing down the pump could cause the issue.
2. If the system's off for long periods of time there could be air buildup in the block, so moving the computer around a bit (e.g. laying it down on its side for a few seconds then sitting it back up, and doing this a few times) to promote the water around the impeller and block could fix the issue, as it did for me.
1. What do you mean, slowing down the pump? Running it slow via manual control? Or do you mean if the pump runs slower due to a technical issue?
2. I find it weird though how air would get trapped in the block if the pump can manage to push air bubbles through. This happened with all my systems on first start. But I know there can be design issues that cause such a tendency. But my EVGA pump was running fine for three years and then suddenly had a severe cooling performance drop, while the motor is still running fine.
My guess: They might be different version and one of them had a component made of a material that degraded and corrupt the the copper later when water mix them. Are both AIO WC system made of exactly the same materials?
Probably should have put the cooler onto a CPU to see if it works before taking it apart. It was very interesting to watch though, so good content.
Is there a way to check the power consumption? What if the VRM is bad and supplying too much power.
if the vrm was putting enough volts to make a gpu under water go to 90C then that gpu is gone
I don't think it's too unusual for a GPU to hit 90c with air cooling at stock voltages. Do you really think that water cooling is so superior that to hit 90c would require over 2 volts to the gpu?
water cooling is pretty high grade when it's done right. In this type of setup I can't be too sure. too many variables really, but I can say that temps were a little on the high side for sure. It shouldn't be going that high with that cooler.
You would see it on the voltage sensors on the card.
Can you show how you get the liquid back in an AIO cooler
Could the glycol have gone bad if not why do the internal fins look dirty?
Thank you Steve for sacrificing one good cooler for science! Having a 1080ti iCX and later on purchasing hydro evga cooler this makes me nervous that my $700~ part might go bad after a year also...I know originally the card came with 5yr warranty and I think with their cooler now I have one year warranty...I should have bought the hydro card from the beginning for a better peace of mind :(
I keep searching for the resolution to this :( I'm in the same exact spot and would love an answer....
Hi! I have had this problem in the past, though my card was not a hybrid, but using the NZXT kraken. The issues occured 3 times, each with a different incident. One first issue was the contact between the pump and chip. I tightened it harder to close the gaps. The 2nd issue was a slack pump connector. Essentially the pump was not getting any power, and the 3rd issue was that the fan for the radiator was also not having any power, due to a slack connector. Not entirely sure why these connectors would fail over time, maybe some cable headers are just designed better. Regardless, I still prefer an AIO on the GPU, hopefully in the future they will add better sensors to detect failures, water levels and that sort of thing.
I wonder why you should buy an hybrid car since the this I always hit first is power limit (120%)on my SC2. It barely goes over 70C .
Do these hybrids have the pump in the radiator
What Steve did at 5:25 how do you get the cover back on the aio?
Troubleshooting video worth more than all the original mod installation videos....I am very curious what is wrong, can't wait for the solution video. Other than that I hope you have Happy Holidays Steve and I hope all will be well for you so we can have you one more year on youtube.
Hey Stev! why didn't you test the card with the other CLC before opening it up :P
Non-destructive way you could have measured internal coolant volume: Weigh unmolested cooler assembly. Weigh all the bits minus the coolant of the molested cooler assembly. Weigh the coolant. If the molested assembly plus removed coolant is about the same weight as the new assembly same amount of coolant is in both.
My pump does flow till I give it a hard tap on cold boot ups now does it pretty much every boot now
"Uggh fuck these asutek plates" steve you gotta be a fav of mine.
I had the same issue with an Asetek 510LC while operating on my GTX 1080 (prior to its use on my GPU, it served on my FX 8350 for 3 years). It handled heavy overclocking well for a 120mm aluminum AIO but I suddenly saw it hitting 90c idle. I did similar diagnostics (checked for pump spinning, but I instead topped off the coolant instead of checking for permeation) and it seemed fine until it was reassembled. It was likely a mix of permeation and a malfunctioning pump as the cooler kept making a churning noise and my temps were just as bad as before. I put the stock cooler back on (MSI Armor) until I got a Corsair H55 to put under it.
I'm not saying your case is similar as mine, especially given your cooler has been running for a shorter time period, but your AIO is simply done-for.
Any chance that the header that drives the pump died?
Love the hair!!
If it were me, I'd have taken high resolution X-Ray shots of the coolers before and after, then calculated the exact internal volume. Then scan each of the liquid samples with a mass spectrometer to determine the exact composition. And don't forget to flow test each pump at a variety of temps.
I'm kidding, great video.
In another older video you said taking it apart like this renders it basically useless. So should I even try this? My 980 ti hybrid is about 4 years old now and it gets pretty hot. I wanna run some maintenance on it.
im having the same problem? how hot does yours run? at stock settings mine is 35C ambient and 75C under load while also making occassional loudish noise even with radiator positioned properly. u have a similar experience?
If only there was some new, really cool product to arrange all the removed components,
almost like a mod mat.
Curious why you're not working on the new GN modmat. I'd be interested in buying one, but I'd like to see the price posted somewhere first.
My TITAN X(maxwell) has an overheating issue on the backplate memory modules and sometimes crashes my computer, Unlike the issues you guys had but...I have actually touched the mem modules and a few of them are way hotter than the other ones.Not sure if this helps but im gonna be looking at a new card when Volta drops.
Would love to buy one of the EVGA coolers off of you guys since you have so many laying around LOL
That thumbnail looks like a L'Oréal ad
TBH Steve, i think you've made an unintentional ASMR video.
Hey Steve, you mentioned that you don't think the paste being dry was responsible for 90 C? I'm just a little confused because I have never seen paste dry like that so my first thought (for repair, not video) was to replace the paste and re-check temps. So am I right in hearing that you think the dry paste wouldn't cause that large of a temp increase?
Interested to know what the outcome was!
My first test would have been to see if the screws holding the cooler were actually tight.
You need to pick up a mod mat, with the grounded wrist strap...
Could the radiator be clogged?
"these strip really easily" try using the 'right' bit. takes practice and a lot of variety. a file and a bucket of cheaper jewelers flatheads can deal with most stripped screws. then theres always the drill :D
My 1070ftw hybrid rarely gets out of the 40’s when under full load running at 2100mhz. I will always liquid cool my gpu moving forward. I have had it for a few years at this point and i would say there is definitely less coolant in it, but it still performs extremely well.
Are hybrid cards worth getting for people who aren’t planning to do extreme overclocking? Seems like an AIO cooler on a GPU might be more high maintenance than most people are willing to deal with.
I did not expect to see permeation from only 1 or 2 years though. I have, however, seen this issue where the vibration of the pump slowly loosening the screws holding down the cooler. Not a LOT of loosening but enough to cause an issue during high loads. I redid the paste using some leftover Noctua Paste and then retightened down the screws and my temps returned to normal. Also a 980ti Hybrid.
Typically is about 5 years, yeah.
Y NO MODMAT?
Any updates on this?
Perhaps it is in power delivery from the card to the pump.
I had a NV 6300 do this back some 10+ years ago. It was not overclocked, but was just constantly getting hotter and hotter over time. I tried to put larger fans on it, heat sinks on everything and even eventually a much larger cooler from Silverstone.. Nothing seemed to help.. I ended up just getting a 7600 and it ran cool as ice. In the end I believe the GPU was just shorting out and cooking its self..
Can you not refill them and close them back up?
By the way you mixed the liquid it seems like you weren't going to.
So where's part 2 of this video? Was poor contact the reason for the 90 degree C temperatures?
My guess is probably poor HS contact. But there is only one way to validate that now.
MrENT18 I too had poor high school contact
card's pump power could be bad also, basically the only other option can the thermal interface
"Like, exactly almost" - GN ^_^
So what was the issue?
Oh, shit, that was funny! Thermal ghosts!!! Quick! I need an exorcism on my XFX, bring the crucifix! hahaha XD
Exactly almost.
maybe the pump works with out a load but doesn't work with a load?
The chemist in me appreciates the NO FOOD written on the measuring cup