Never ceases to amaze me that you had a plumber out who couldn't see the problem, maybe it was the same plumber who did the original construction. Also wonder how or if it passed original inspection.
1. You are way over the max trap seal depth of 4". 2. You need to have the vent on the horizontal portion just after the trap consisting of either a tee wye or wye on its back then running to a venting system or outdoors. You seem to be a handy guy so you can fix this 👍
Glad you were able to resolve your issue. I'm not a plumber but great explanation. I have a better understanding of how the venting works. Thx for sharing!
This is not the way to properly vent a fixture. I am a master plumber with decades of experience and this was one of the best homeowner hack jobs I have seen in years. I do appreciate the effort!
Installation should allow for an AAV. That only needs to be 4" above the top of the trap in most localities. It would not be considered hidden since it's in the unfinished ceiling of the basement.
@@robertp4716 AAV won't help the problems here any more than this new incorrect install will. The AAV (or a real vent) doesn't really go directly above the trap as show here or as you describe. It needs a horizontal trap arm first to get the vent AWAY from the trap. Otherwise the trap will siphon & stink even if vented
You can't siphon the trap if the venting prevents negative pressure forming on the sewer side. In your case, since you already have a vent in place, the way you have it makes most sense. The only detail that may be wrong- it may be camera angle- your DWV T looks inverted, the take-off into the sewer pipe looks like it's sloping upwards and not downwards like it should.
@@robertp4716 Research how to calculate minimum trap arm length, and why that is important. A vent with a vent take-off right above the trap violates ALL plumbing codes. It has zero trap arm. You may think the vent prevents siphon, but it just doesn't in actual practice when the vent is above the trap. The vent has to be a minimum of 4" away from trap for 2" pipe (4" min trap arm length)
@@robertp4716 If you put the vent above the trap as in this video, then research has shown that the traps DO siphon enough to break the seal and allow gasses into the room. Research minimum trap arm length
This little ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
A trap is a fitting/or combination of fittings installed on a drainage system that provides a liquid seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the building. Every plumbing fixture connected to a DWV system shall have a trap per code. The liquid seal shall be 2"min. To 4"max. Between the weir and the top dip of the trap to be considered a legal trap.(some exceptions are made to 6" depth for deep seal traps under certain conditions). A vent is installed to protect that liquid seal from syphonage, back pressure, wind effect and momentum. ( It will not protect against evaporation and capillary action/wicking) A trap is required to have a trap arm with a min. And max lgth. Based on pipe size. The min. Being 2X pipe Dia. And max. Based on your local code as they have changed recently in some areas. The trap arm is defined as a section of pipe between the weir of the trap and the vent connection. The min. Size of the trap arm prevents syphonage. Any connection closer is considered crown venting as some have stated already. The vent connection should be above center line of the drain it serves, 45 degrees or greater and continue vertically to a point of 6 inches above the flood rim of the fixture it serves before going horizontal. This would be in a perfect world of course but not always possible when working with existing as in your case. You should be fine with your horizontal vent as long as it's sloped for drainage. Best of luck, Kenny b
As a fellow homeowner, I can appreciate you fixing a known problem. However, after researching drain/vents for an upcoming project myself, there are a few issues I think do not meet code (for future people searching vent issues). Others have mentioned the trap depth and connection to the vent (san tee) being wrong, but there is also the horizontal dry vent run below the shower flood level. Look up IPC 905.4 about horizontal vent runs have to be 6 inches above the flood level of the fixture being vented. Overall, your work looks good though, so thanks for the info!
Yes the horizontal dry vent is a violation as well as the trap assembly. It's pretty much a video of how not to do something. Have to wonder where the inspector was on the initial install!!
Most codes don't allow the use of a sanitary tee when transitioning from vertical to horizontal. Also, the vent, depending on your code, can't be horizontal unless it's 6 inches above the flood level of the fixture. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
And as he explains his "Casue" of the why they were smelling sewage, was not the vent bring in lingering odors. It was the main venting connection to the rest of the home bring in a too much outside pressure! So the shower trap was siphoning out the p-trap seal everytime. Yes an that 45 T is not code, should be sanitary T. So with that short 45 T leads me to believe they were using that "vent" line as a drain? An since sewage gases sink & linger on bottem, it was creeping back in to the closes drain. An then this homeowner has wrong T everywhere.
@@TheGmanamaya whether this worked or not on his plumbing vent fix I don't know but to get above floodplane he would have had to go up in his wall to install his vent to his vent tree
That is still not correct. If the home gets inspected by a lgitamate inspector, it will fail. That T on the outlet side of the trap should not be there.
Couldnt you have left your original vent and simply rerouted the drain to the other side of the p trap then reconnected the outflow of the trap to the correct side of the rest of the drain path?
Instead of connecting to the house venting system, you could have put an air admittance valve right after your P-trap, thus avoiding the max trap seal depth problem.
Keeping the sewer side of any trap at atmospheric pressure via a vent also prevents that same vacuum effect from waste water leaving the trap. Nothing worse than a dry trap.
The vent being on the tub side of the trap will only smell of tub air. The attic connections of this vent should all connect to the sewer side of their traps if installed correctly. You should not smell the sewer that far away from the source. You should only smell tub air, outside vent air or occasionally during a windy day a hint of sewer fumes or as someone said if the trap below the tub is siphoned by other fixtures and breaks the water seal.
That really depends on several factors. I do a lot of work around high rises and those sewer lines literally blow sewer gas at you. It’s because vents not only suck air, but they let air be pushed out of them. When water goes down a vertical pipe it’s blocks the pipe and pushes all the air out ahead of it. This is what causes toilet water to bounce when it’s not vented properly. That’s the air pushing on the trap seal because it doesn’t have a vent to go out. So when there’s high rises, you have sometimes 6” pipe and up running vertical. When they get water running down them they push a lot of air. Yoke vents are only required what every 5 floors or so. This means you could have 5 floors worth of water pushing air. This is what sewer lines in down town areas blow sewer gas out of them. Also mains are vented through the buildings that tie into them. Depending on where he is on that main he could have a worse sewer gas problem than others. There’s a good chance he was getting sewer gas out of the vent and not a siphoned trap. I’ve seen lots of poorly vent systems that didn’t have trap siphoning issues. Especially when it runs horizontal right off the bay for a good distance. That water flattens out within a foot or so. This will balance the pressure in the line so that it doesn’t siphon
Maybe you are thinking of the overflow pipe connection on a tub, which does connect above the trap but is not connected to the vent system at all. This is a shower without any overflow protection. No vent should be connected above the trap. Think of a sink, typically the trap under it goes to the wall where it drains into a sanitary tee (vent connected above and drain below).
its an easy fix just run your drain line to your vent first then use a long 90 and put a tee on the vertical with a normal trap to catch the shower and it will work fine a be legal
I think i have this issue, but after watching this there is no way I can solve this myself :( How much should I expect this service to cost if I found someone to come do it?
idk what all these comments are being rude for, and the plumber you had come look at this must have made a mistake also. i can see immediately from your before picture what the problem is. the trap is hooked up wrong. the trap needs to be vented, not the drain. if you were to swap the two tail piece or "stub down" pipes, it would be correctly piped in the before pic. it actually takes a well trained eye to see why the before pic setup does not function correctly because theoretically it should work. the reason that its not working is because the drain is above the vent. you cannot go horizontal vent before the p trap and below flood level rim, that is why i said the drain is above the vent. edit: i just realized i couldve explained this in much fewer words: in order to vent in the before pic, it has to syphon the p trap.
I would very much like to know who the plumber was that could not correctly identify the problem. I saw it at first glance, and I'm not a plumber. NO person who describes themself as a plumber should miss this glaring example of an incorrectly protected trap. Trap protection is THE singular most important element of any DWV installation because it's fundamental to health and safety. Every PLUMBER is taught the meaning of Trap Protection. It's fundamental "lesson 101" type knowledge. Blacklist that guy! Tell your friends. Tell your family. Tell anyone who will listen not to hire that guy.
Nothing shown will pass code, so take that into account when viewing. Plumbing codes are used for a reason and installations that do not follow code are gong to be at risk of additional problems in the future.
Every time it Rains my master bedroom smells like cat urine, 1st time I smelled the stench was terrible, it has tapered off smell wise these past 3 yrs.All my drains work great but still gets the musty smell. I do hear my bathtub drains gurgle now and then.
I'm no plumber but i can tell this is still wrong. You fixed the vent issue but your P trap at the end is wrong. Think of it this way, how would it be possible to snake this from the shower tub. The cable will go through your vent pipe. which is incorrect.
Ahahha literally. This guy did the original mistake himself and tried to fix it with more mistakes. He is so ignorant that he won’t even do a simple research and find the correct way. There is no excuse in this day and age. You can even learn from google images. Don’t even have to read.
I'm surprised they let you vent so many fixtures on one pipe the way I got away with it is I used a 4-inch line I think that changes the number of fixtures that you can use the larger the vent pipe the more fixtures I think I don't know those codes change all the time the
Listen I’ve been a plumber 36 years all you had to do is drop off a 2 “ y right before the p-trap make sure that y is above the water line then install your p-trap and that 2 y will tie into your main vent going out. Please please leave this to the pros
That’s a pretty bad plumber to tie in a vent on the wrong side of the trap. That basically means it’s not vented plus you have an open sewer line in the house. They way you did it isn’t quite right but I think it will work. Technically its illegal. It’s what’s called a crown vented trap. The vent is supposed to be 2 pipe diameters from the weir of the trap. The weir is basically the water level. It’s the point where the water goes from the trap to the drain. These tend to clog or dry out fast from air moving in the vent. An easy fix for this would be to put a cleanout in it so you can run some water down the vent line if it ever clogs. Running water will usually easily unclog a vent because they don’t get clogged like drain lines do. As for the proper legal way or as close as we can get without too much demo, he’s how I’d do it. I should say a proper legal way because there’s probably multiple ways. I would have, instead of that tee, put a combo or wye facing up. The top of the combo or wye would go to the vent. Then come out of the back of the combo with your p trap. This way will eliminate the crown vent. If you could run that vent line over to a lavatory or a nearby sink and replace the drain for it with this, then it would be totally legal. It would be a horizontal wet vent. Without a wet vent to wash it out, I’d definitely add a clean out. I would have also made the previous vent into a clean out instead of a cap. Two things you can never have too much of in a plumbing system is valves and clean outs. Anyway not bad for someone who doesn’t deal with plumbing code everyday
It’s still not proper for several reasons. It’s crown vented. The outlet of the Ptrap can’t be a reversed sanitary tee. That’s installed backwards. You’ll never get a drain cable through that tee to clean the drain past the trap. The trap is too deep.
Your verbiage shows that you might be intelligent 😉, but guessing your thermodynamics are correct with your main high leg of 480 connectors to main vent separately from your Flux soldered capacitor sump pump?
Glad you aren’t having pervasive sewer gas issues any longer, every component of this system is still a god forsaken mess. It ain’t easy being cheesy, that’s a real mess you’ve got there pal
I can't understand how the plumber did not spot the vent connection was on the wrong side of the trap. Not all "plumbers" are properly trained in the plumbing code just people that are kind of handy. Always ask if they are licensed by the state, anyone can say they are a plumber.
Try again and make it look clean and professional. Trap seal is way too deep. You we’re right move the vent after the trap seal but that looks like a DIY hob job. It looks like it’s hanging a foot or more below the joists.
Seriously? It fixed his problem and your only comment is how it looks? If you have a comment about code, insert that, but a snide remark about sloppyness is negative thru and thru.
On the discharge side of the drain you cannot use a sanitary tee you should've went off with wye and a 45 or so connect to this vent vent keep drop going drop down with the 90 into the pee wrap and up to your shower. The way you have it is incorrect.
once you showed us the attic....."theres your problem" plus the fact your p trap is on the wrong side. There are other mistakes too but you found the problem.
A vent cannot change directions below the flood rim of the fixture it serves, If there's a blockage in the drain that vent will also fill up with water. Vent must be at least 6 inches higher than the flood rim of the fixture it serves before it can change direction, 6 inches higher than the edge of the tub. That method is actually a code violation
yes this works but sorry this is not up to code as that sanitary tee is being used incorrectly. It should've been installed on the horizontal pipe rather than the way it was installed here, its backwards. It could have been used on the vertical pipe but the sanitary tee is backwards in this video and by the looks of the amount of space available the only option would be to have it on the horizontal pipe with the vent coming out the top of the horizontal pipe or at least no lower than a 45 degree angle.
Sorry, but this will still siphon & stink sometimes. Code violations: 1. Vent must be at least 2 pipe diameters (4") AFTER the p-trap. So you need a flat drain (trap arm) after the p-trap but but before the vent. It can be 4" to 60". What you have now with the vent right above the p-trap is effectively an S-trap. It will siphon & stink sometimes. 2. Trap seal must be less than 4" deep. You can't make it extra deep like that. It will siphon & stink. 3. No flat (horizontal) venting below the flood rim of the tub is allowed. So you need to either redirect the drain under main vent shaft going straight up, or install a new vent shaft straight up with no horizontal sections below the top of the tub. As it is now, the vent will clog over the years from occasional back ups, then stop working, causing siphon & stink in your bathroom.
And as he explains his "Casue" of the why they were smelling sewage, was not the vent bring in lingering odors. It was the main venting connection to the rest of the home bring in a too much outside pressure! So the shower trap was siphoning out the p-trap seal everytime. Yes an that 45 T is not code, should be sanitary T. So with that short 45 T leads me to believe they were using that "vent" line as a drain? An since sewage gases sink & linger on bottem, it was creeping back in to the closes drain. An then this homeowner has wrong T everywhere. Please correct me if I'm wrong? I am a pipe welder an work with many other craftsman, so my plumbing codes & knowledge is simple! Lol Thx!
This is still “VERY WRONG” ! DO NOT USE THIS AS AN EXAMPLE! He created what is called a “CROWN VENT” He has some plumbing knowledge “But” only plays one on “YOU TUBE”! Just look at the purple primer “EVERY WHERE”!
Took me 2 seconds of viewing the "before" pic to see your vent is on the wrong side of the trap..... get your money back from the "plummer" you hired to fix the problem.... and clearly this was never inspected by anyone who knows what they are doing....we have inspectors in my area that I have to correct on occasion.
That's a coupler not an extension ,air venting system doesn't exist, quit saying drain trap, toilets a closet,ptrap combo,that u drain trap😆 will cause more problems that solve. I hope this video is to test people if they know your stuff.
Well, yes, and of course.. basics of plumbing.. that is what happens if you let unlicensed plumber to plumb your shower. Hire a professional, avoid this type of mistakes.
Nothing about this is right lol. It may work Slightly, but its far from correct. (Master plumber here) Codes change state to state, but the basics stay the same.
this is the issue with these sort of videos...now you have a 100k views on something you did illegally and someone who doesn't know better will go out there with the incorrect knowledge "because they saw some guy on youtube do it". People don't understand the intricacies of venting, the trap stopping sewer gas part is right but your solution just changed illegal plumbing back to illegal plumbing all over again, best bet is to tie your shower into your sink which hopefully is properly vented and do what is called wet venting, which is typically how bathroom groups are vented.
He hired a "professionl" plumber who didn't know WTF was going on. The amateur homeowner at least figured out the venting was on the wrong side. So now many of the "professionals" are nit-picking his fix about a future maintenance problem. If that maintenance is ever needed, I'm sure he'll just do it himself, if physically able. I do appreciate the constructive advice about fixing his mistakes, but the criticism is unnecessary. IMO, professionals who criticize amateurs giving it their own best shot, have issues with their own self worth.
![Air admittance valves for plumbing venting explained, [just over 4 minutes]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BQy2UuY0Yyc/mqdefault.jpg)
Never ceases to amaze me that you had a plumber out who couldn't see the problem, maybe it was the same plumber who did the original construction. Also wonder how or if it passed original inspection.
1. You are way over the max trap seal depth of 4".
2. You need to have the vent on the horizontal portion just after the trap consisting of either a tee wye or wye on its back then running to a venting system or outdoors.
You seem to be a handy guy so you can fix this 👍
Glad you were able to resolve your issue. I'm not a plumber but great explanation.
I have a better understanding of how the venting works. Thx for sharing!
Amazed at the diagnosis! Very clever
Great video, brother! Thanks for showing us the problem!
Your explanations are very clear , Thanks !
Great video tremendous amount of help thank you save me a lot of time and money .
Do not follow this guys instructions, it is a miserable fail. Hire a professional if you can’t see what is wrong in this video.
This is not the way to properly vent a fixture. I am a master plumber with decades of experience and this was one of the best homeowner hack jobs I have seen in years. I do appreciate the effort!
Installation should allow for an AAV. That only needs to be 4" above the top of the trap in most localities. It would not be considered hidden since it's in the unfinished ceiling of the basement.
@@robertp4716 AAV won't help the problems here any more than this new incorrect install will. The AAV (or a real vent) doesn't really go directly above the trap as show here or as you describe. It needs a horizontal trap arm first to get the vent AWAY from the trap. Otherwise the trap will siphon & stink even if vented
You can't siphon the trap if the venting prevents negative pressure forming on the sewer side. In your case, since you already have a vent in place, the way you have it makes most sense. The only detail that may be wrong- it may be camera angle- your DWV T looks inverted, the take-off into the sewer pipe looks like it's sloping upwards and not downwards like it should.
@@robertp4716 Research how to calculate minimum trap arm length, and why that is important. A vent with a vent take-off right above the trap violates ALL plumbing codes. It has zero trap arm. You may think the vent prevents siphon, but it just doesn't in actual practice when the vent is above the trap. The vent has to be a minimum of 4" away from trap for 2" pipe (4" min trap arm length)
@@robertp4716 If you put the vent above the trap as in this video, then research has shown that the traps DO siphon enough to break the seal and allow gasses into the room. Research minimum trap arm length
This little ruclips.net/user/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
I always say: "the homeowner is the best contractor" you're definitely a Columbo!!! good work!!!
Its still wrong, but it "works"
Very helpful, thank you
A trap is a fitting/or combination of fittings installed on a drainage system that provides a liquid seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the building. Every plumbing fixture connected to a DWV system shall have a trap per code. The liquid seal shall be 2"min. To 4"max. Between the weir and the top dip of the trap to be considered a legal trap.(some exceptions are made to 6" depth for deep seal traps under certain conditions).
A vent is installed to protect that liquid seal from syphonage, back pressure, wind effect and momentum. ( It will not protect against evaporation and capillary action/wicking)
A trap is required to have a trap arm with a min. And max lgth. Based on pipe size. The min. Being 2X pipe Dia. And max. Based on
your local code as they have changed recently in some areas.
The trap arm is defined as a section of pipe between the weir of the trap and the vent connection. The min. Size of the trap arm prevents syphonage. Any connection closer is considered crown venting as some have stated already.
The vent connection should be above center line of the drain it serves, 45 degrees or greater and continue vertically to a point of 6 inches above the flood rim of the fixture it serves before going horizontal.
This would be in a perfect world of course but not always possible when working with existing as in your case. You should be fine with your horizontal vent as long as it's sloped for drainage.
Best of luck,
Kenny b
His vent is could a wet vent from his sink so his sink is dumping into his shower p-trap.
As a fellow homeowner, I can appreciate you fixing a known problem. However, after researching drain/vents for an upcoming project myself, there are a few issues I think do not meet code (for future people searching vent issues). Others have mentioned the trap depth and connection to the vent (san tee) being wrong, but there is also the horizontal dry vent run below the shower flood level. Look up IPC 905.4 about horizontal vent runs have to be 6 inches above the flood level of the fixture being vented.
Overall, your work looks good though, so thanks for the info!
Yes the horizontal dry vent is a violation as well as the trap assembly. It's pretty much a video of how not to do something. Have to wonder where the inspector was on the initial install!!
@@johnpeters9903
The inspector was probably at the bank depositing the payoff.
Thanks for your tip. You experienced the improvement no septic tank smell that means no gas. Thanks.
Great explanation
Awesome that helped thank you
Vent should always follow after the p trap of the draining fixture.
Definitely a chuck in a truck repair. Hopefully it stands the test of time for you
Still vented incorrectly.
Thankyou very helpful, should have asked for a refund from your plumber who gave you the wrong advice in tge beginning cheers
Great job Grandpa
So putting in a shower drain the drain pipe has to drain away from the shower drain so basically the wall side of the shower drain is that correct
helpful. I think I'm having a similar issue
Look up crown vent.
You have a perfect example.
Nice workmanship though.
You cannot use a sanitary T to drain the shower you need to use a 45° Y or a 45° sweep.
Oh, and there was either no plumbing inspection when the house was built, or there was a corrupt official who turned a blind eye.
Or this guy did the plumbing originally and not telling us.
Also if omitting all air vent drainage can slow down to increase clog probability at joints.
Hello Sir, is this gona cause water drain very slow? there will be a positive pressure from the shower drain to the P trap, am I right?
Did the original plumber of the house install that vent that way?
Most codes don't allow the use of a sanitary tee when transitioning from vertical to horizontal. Also, the vent, depending on your code, can't be horizontal unless it's 6 inches above the flood level of the fixture. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
And as he explains his "Casue" of the why they were smelling sewage, was not the vent bring in lingering odors.
It was the main venting connection to the rest of the home bring in a too much outside pressure! So the shower trap was siphoning out the p-trap seal everytime.
Yes an that 45 T is not code, should be sanitary T. So with that short 45 T leads me to believe they were using that "vent" line as a drain?
An since sewage gases sink & linger on bottem, it was creeping back in to the closes drain.
An then this homeowner has wrong T everywhere.
instablaster...
@@TheGmanamaya whether this worked or not on his plumbing vent fix I don't know but to get above floodplane he would have had to go up in his wall to install his vent to his vent tree
@@harrisonmathew5001 Is instablaster like Drano?
Yeah I would've opted for a 2in wye combo facing vertical somewhere between the main drain and the p trap( wherever there's a wall above.
That is still not correct. If the home gets inspected by a lgitamate inspector, it will fail. That T on the outlet side of the trap should not be there.
Yep
So will you be requesting a refund from the so-called plumber who clearly didn't have a clue, good job thanks.
Couldnt you have left your original vent and simply rerouted the drain to the other side of the p trap then reconnected the outflow of the trap to the correct side of the rest of the drain path?
Instead of connecting to the house venting system, you could have put an air admittance valve right after your P-trap, thus avoiding the max trap seal depth problem.
It was made wrong the first time and then the second time also. Even the trap is backwards. Gee whizz. Just brutal.
Will work for your stinky situation but not code. Can't snake it to clear clogs, that san tee should be a 90
The sanitary tea and trap needs to move toward the vent goes straight up vertically. The trap arm cannot be longer than 5 feet.
Keeping the sewer side of any trap at atmospheric pressure via a vent also prevents that same vacuum effect from waste water leaving the trap. Nothing worse than a dry trap.
The vent being on the tub side of the trap will only smell of tub air. The attic connections of this vent should all connect to the sewer side of their traps if installed correctly. You should not smell the sewer that far away from the source. You should only smell tub air, outside vent air or occasionally during a windy day a hint of sewer fumes or as someone said if the trap below the tub is siphoned by other fixtures and breaks the water seal.
That really depends on several factors. I do a lot of work around high rises and those sewer lines literally blow sewer gas at you. It’s because vents not only suck air, but they let air be pushed out of them. When water goes down a vertical pipe it’s blocks the pipe and pushes all the air out ahead of it. This is what causes toilet water to bounce when it’s not vented properly. That’s the air pushing on the trap seal because it doesn’t have a vent to go out. So when there’s high rises, you have sometimes 6” pipe and up running vertical. When they get water running down them they push a lot of air. Yoke vents are only required what every 5 floors or so. This means you could have 5 floors worth of water pushing air. This is what sewer lines in down town areas blow sewer gas out of them. Also mains are vented through the buildings that tie into them. Depending on where he is on that main he could have a worse sewer gas problem than others. There’s a good chance he was getting sewer gas out of the vent and not a siphoned trap. I’ve seen lots of poorly vent systems that didn’t have trap siphoning issues. Especially when it runs horizontal right off the bay for a good distance. That water flattens out within a foot or so. This will balance the pressure in the line so that it doesn’t siphon
Maybe you are thinking of the overflow pipe connection on a tub, which does connect above the trap but is not connected to the vent system at all. This is a shower without any overflow protection. No vent should be connected above the trap. Think of a sink, typically the trap under it goes to the wall where it drains into a sanitary tee (vent connected above and drain below).
its an easy fix just run your drain line to your vent first then use a long 90 and put a tee on the vertical with a normal trap to catch the shower and it will work fine a be legal
How do you run a cable if the drain clogs? The cable will go through the trap then up the vent!?
Yes. It was made wrong the first time and second time.
I think i have this issue, but after watching this there is no way I can solve this myself :( How much should I expect this service to cost if I found someone to come do it?
The purpose of a drain trap(p) is to create a water colum to block sewer gas from entering your space.
Sometimes life is overwhelming.....
idk what all these comments are being rude for, and the plumber you had come look at this must have made a mistake also. i can see immediately from your before picture what the problem is. the trap is hooked up wrong. the trap needs to be vented, not the drain. if you were to swap the two tail piece or "stub down" pipes, it would be correctly piped in the before pic. it actually takes a well trained eye to see why the before pic setup does not function correctly because theoretically it should work. the reason that its not working is because the drain is above the vent. you cannot go horizontal vent before the p trap and below flood level rim, that is why i said the drain is above the vent.
edit: i just realized i couldve explained this in much fewer words: in order to vent in the before pic, it has to syphon the p trap.
I would very much like to know who the plumber was that could not correctly identify the problem. I saw it at first glance, and I'm not a plumber.
NO person who describes themself as a plumber should miss this glaring example of an incorrectly protected trap.
Trap protection is THE singular most important element of any DWV installation because it's fundamental to health and safety. Every PLUMBER is taught the meaning of Trap Protection. It's fundamental "lesson 101" type knowledge.
Blacklist that guy! Tell your friends. Tell your family. Tell anyone who will listen not to hire that guy.
Nothing shown will pass code, so take that into account when viewing. Plumbing codes are used for a reason and installations that do not follow code are gong to be at risk of additional problems in the future.
you are correct, the fix is in violation just like the initial install.
Every time it Rains my master bedroom smells like cat urine, 1st time I smelled the stench was terrible, it has tapered off smell wise these past 3 yrs.All my drains work great but still gets the musty smell. I do hear my bathtub drains gurgle now and then.
Check the vent going out the roof/ distance from fixture is important also
I'm no plumber but i can tell this is still wrong. You fixed the vent issue but your P trap at the end is wrong. Think of it this way, how would it be possible to snake this from the shower tub. The cable will go through your vent pipe. which is incorrect.
Did you not have a county inspector come and look at it to get it passed
when the imposter is sus
Ahahha literally. This guy did the original mistake himself and tried to fix it with more mistakes. He is so ignorant that he won’t even do a simple research and find the correct way. There is no excuse in this day and age. You can even learn from google images. Don’t even have to read.
surprise the inspector didn't catch that
I'm surprised they let you vent so many fixtures on one pipe the way I got away with it is I used a 4-inch line I think that changes the number of fixtures that you can use the larger the vent pipe the more fixtures I think I don't know those codes change all the time the
Can't use a 90 on It's side on a flat you have to use 2 45's for future reference
Listen I’ve been a plumber 36 years all you had to do is drop off a 2 “ y right before the p-trap make sure that y is above the water line then install your p-trap and that 2 y will tie into your main vent going out. Please please leave this to the pros
You are wrong, cannot have a horizontal dry vent below flood rim.
Obviously, the "pro" who did the original plumbing for the house didn't know what the heck they were doing. There are incompetent "pros" out there.
That’s a pretty bad plumber to tie in a vent on the wrong side of the trap. That basically means it’s not vented plus you have an open sewer line in the house. They way you did it isn’t quite right but I think it will work. Technically its illegal. It’s what’s called a crown vented trap. The vent is supposed to be 2 pipe diameters from the weir of the trap. The weir is basically the water level. It’s the point where the water goes from the trap to the drain. These tend to clog or dry out fast from air moving in the vent. An easy fix for this would be to put a cleanout in it so you can run some water down the vent line if it ever clogs. Running water will usually easily unclog a vent because they don’t get clogged like drain lines do.
As for the proper legal way or as close as we can get without too much demo, he’s how I’d do it. I should say a proper legal way because there’s probably multiple ways. I would have, instead of that tee, put a combo or wye facing up. The top of the combo or wye would go to the vent. Then come out of the back of the combo with your p trap. This way will eliminate the crown vent. If you could run that vent line over to a lavatory or a nearby sink and replace the drain for it with this, then it would be totally legal. It would be a horizontal wet vent. Without a wet vent to wash it out, I’d definitely add a clean out. I would have also made the previous vent into a clean out instead of a cap. Two things you can never have too much of in a plumbing system is valves and clean outs. Anyway not bad for someone who doesn’t deal with plumbing code everyday
By the way dude! That main drain is a dwv, drain ,waste,vent.
That trap had no arm...
It’s still not proper for several reasons.
It’s crown vented.
The outlet of the Ptrap can’t be a reversed sanitary tee. That’s installed backwards.
You’ll never get a drain cable through that tee to clean the drain past the trap.
The trap is too deep.
Your verbiage shows that you might be intelligent 😉, but guessing your thermodynamics are correct with your main high leg of 480 connectors to main vent separately from your Flux soldered capacitor sump pump?
Glad you aren’t having pervasive sewer gas issues any longer, every component of this system is still a god forsaken mess. It ain’t easy being cheesy, that’s a real mess you’ve got there pal
I can't understand how the plumber did not spot the vent connection was on the wrong side of the trap. Not all "plumbers" are properly trained in the plumbing code just people that are kind of handy. Always ask if they are licensed by the state, anyone can say they are a plumber.
Try again and make it look clean and professional. Trap seal is way too deep. You we’re right move the vent after the trap seal but that looks like a DIY hob job. It looks like it’s hanging a foot or more below the joists.
Seriously? It fixed his problem and your only comment is how it looks? If you have a comment about code, insert that, but a snide remark about sloppyness is negative thru and thru.
- shut up
On the discharge side of the drain you cannot use a sanitary tee you should've went off with wye and a 45 or so connect to this vent vent keep drop going drop down with the 90 into the pee wrap and up to your shower. The way you have it is incorrect.
once you showed us the attic....."theres your problem" plus the fact your p trap is on the wrong side. There are other mistakes too but you found the problem.
A vent cannot change directions below the flood rim of the fixture it serves, If there's a blockage in the drain that vent will also fill up with water. Vent must be at least 6 inches higher than the flood rim of the fixture it serves before it can change direction, 6 inches higher than the edge of the tub. That method is actually a code violation
yes this works but sorry this is not up to code as that sanitary tee is being used incorrectly. It should've been installed on the horizontal pipe rather than the way it was installed here, its backwards. It could have been used on the vertical pipe but the sanitary tee is backwards in this video and by the looks of the amount of space available the only option would be to have it on the horizontal pipe with the vent coming out the top of the horizontal pipe or at least no lower than a 45 degree angle.
P before V...p-trap before Vent...
When your shower clogs, your new vent will be full of water,
I’m no expert, but if you ever have to snake your drain, that snake will straight to your vent , because of T for your vent
Sorry, but this will still siphon & stink sometimes. Code violations:
1. Vent must be at least 2 pipe diameters (4") AFTER the p-trap. So you need a flat drain (trap arm) after the p-trap but but before the vent. It can be 4" to 60". What you have now with the vent right above the p-trap is effectively an S-trap. It will siphon & stink sometimes.
2. Trap seal must be less than 4" deep. You can't make it extra deep like that. It will siphon & stink.
3. No flat (horizontal) venting below the flood rim of the tub is allowed. So you need to either redirect the drain under main vent shaft going straight up, or install a new vent shaft straight up with no horizontal sections below the top of the tub. As it is now, the vent will clog over the years from occasional back ups, then stop working, causing siphon & stink in your bathroom.
master plumber here all of this is wrong still hope the smell goes away but highly unlikely
And as he explains his "Casue" of the why they were smelling sewage, was not the vent bring in lingering odors.
It was the main venting connection to the rest of the home bring in a too much outside pressure! So the shower trap was siphoning out the p-trap seal everytime.
Yes an that 45 T is not code, should be sanitary T. So with that short 45 T leads me to believe they were using that "vent" line as a drain?
An since sewage gases sink & linger on bottem, it was creeping back in to the closes drain.
An then this homeowner has wrong T everywhere.
Please correct me if I'm wrong? I am a pipe welder an work with many other craftsman, so my plumbing codes & knowledge is simple! Lol
Thx!
The smell will go away , but yeah it's a crown vent and the vent is illegally horizontal..trap too deep,
This is still “VERY WRONG” ! DO NOT USE THIS AS AN EXAMPLE! He created what is called a “CROWN VENT” He has some plumbing knowledge “But” only plays one on “YOU TUBE”! Just look at the purple primer “EVERY WHERE”!
That’s still messed up
Took me 2 seconds of viewing the "before" pic to see your vent is on the wrong side of the trap..... get your money back from the "plummer" you hired to fix the problem.... and clearly this was never inspected by anyone who knows what they are doing....we have inspectors in my area that I have to correct on occasion.
Not not not is not good plumbing
Step one, enroll in plumbing school.
That s done wrong says me master plumber for 40 years
This is done wrong, sanitary installed incorrectly for vent
that is incorrect, you installed the vent before the p trap and the vent is too deep. I hope this install got ripped out.
That's a coupler not an extension ,air venting system doesn't exist, quit saying drain trap, toilets a closet,ptrap combo,that u drain trap😆 will cause more problems that solve. I hope this video is to test people if they know your stuff.
Like others have said that is not correct.
I don’t think that’s up to code
Completely wrong as far as plumbing goes. It might have helped the odor. But it is not even close to the way it's supposed to go.
Still wrong not above flood level
Well, yes, and of course.. basics of plumbing.. that is what happens if you let unlicensed plumber to plumb your shower. Hire a professional, avoid this type of mistakes.
Completely wrong, probably worse now.
It is not a correct install. This drain can never be sneaked. The cable will end up in the vent every time. We call this a Handyman job..
That vent is not proper
Wrong can't 90 below flood level big dog
Nothing about this is right lol. It may work Slightly, but its far from correct. (Master plumber here)
Codes change state to state, but the basics stay the same.
Still very wrong
this is the issue with these sort of videos...now you have a 100k views on something you did illegally and someone who doesn't know better will go out there with the incorrect knowledge "because they saw some guy on youtube do it". People don't understand the intricacies of venting, the trap stopping sewer gas part is right but your solution just changed illegal plumbing back to illegal plumbing all over again, best bet is to tie your shower into your sink which hopefully is properly vented and do what is called wet venting, which is typically how bathroom groups are vented.
This is still totally wrong...impressively fucked
Does any one know a good video were someone is not guessing 🤔 and knows what there doing
Lmfao
He hired a "professionl" plumber who didn't know WTF was going on. The amateur homeowner at least figured out the venting was on the wrong side. So now many of the "professionals" are nit-picking his fix about a future maintenance problem. If that maintenance is ever needed, I'm sure he'll just do it himself, if physically able. I do appreciate the constructive advice about fixing his mistakes, but the criticism is unnecessary. IMO, professionals who criticize amateurs giving it their own best shot, have issues with their own self worth.
This is still wrong
The plumbing is done completly wrong. This is why home owners should not be touching plumbing. I bet you do not know the purpose of a vent.
Not Good!! NYC PLUMBER!!
All wrong buddy, back to the drawing board.
that is all wrong sorry
Weri 👎 you don't know what you talked that story for litl kids