Holy crap, Doddy went to Mondraker! I had no idea! Glad to see you still working!! Mad respect to you! You're the one, along with Calvin Jones, helped me gain the knowledge to build my own bike professionally, which I've finally done this past December.
A would like to add a few points: - most the pumps are designed in a way to disengage the valve core before the seal is broken. So the hissing that you hear during the removal is the air pressure coming from the hose. The reason for the lower reading is that when you attach pump the next time the hose has to fill up with high pressure air and that will come from the shock/fork. - to measure the sag you don't need to unwind your compression dial. It has an effect only the suspension is moving. Just think about it: you change your pressure to change your sag and not add compression damping. The only reason that extra damping changes the number of bottom outs is that the fork/shock will compress slower and the impact will dissipate. - on the other hand lockouts could affect the measurement because they could radically increase the time until the suspension settles or completely close the damping circuit and prevent any movement. - the only real reason some manufacturers recommend the removal of the shock pump while cycling the suspension and equalizing the negative chamber is to prevent any possibility to damage your fork/frame/shock/pump while doing it. Yes, technically it add a bit of extra weight to the system that technically affect the measured sag, but glass of water is more than a shock pump so it is very minimal. - the last, very important point is you should always make the equalization process before measuring the sag because the negative chamber has an effect on the spring rate! On this note: the equalization point of the positive and the negative chamber is very close to the sag point, so if you are setting the sag on fork/shock with low pressure that could also look like loosing pressure while detaching and attaching the pump.
Thanks for watching and commenting! We always go with the recommendations of the component manufacturers that we specify on our bikes (in this case the fork/shock example used - Fox). This is to make sure those not familiar with bike set up can get to a good set up without accidentally or unknowingly compromising it. Recommendations are just that though, you are free to set things up as you please. Again, thanks for commenting!
Es ist super das Mondraker einen eigenen TV Kanal hat mit jemanden der richtig pass an diesen TV Kanal hat mach weiter so 😁😁 hab auch die Freude 2 Mondraker Bikes mein eingen zu nennen 😄😄😄😄😄
I used to love doddy's vids on gmbn tech, I'm really glade to see him keeping the good stuf now at mondraker. I've been riding a dune rr, a crafty, and now a superfoxy,. Good to see Doddy enjoying those amazing bikes.
Ha, thanks! I love the riding around Alicante - but I'm equally happy in filthy wet conditions in the UK. Although today I do have two bikes to fully wash, shoes and have to wash and reproof my waterproofs. Meh!
I always find getting off the bike without messing up the o-rings very difficult, especially on the rear shock where every millimeter counts. What do you think of the following idea? Make a mark on the fork and shock for the sag you want with a sharpie, mount your phone on the handlebars and set up your GoPro at the fork or shock so that you can see where you are. Should you set up your bike differently when you plan a day at a bike park where you will ride out of the saddle all the time that if you plan a big tour where you will be seated for most of the time?
The Crafty XR is a lovely bike! The Neat I rode in this video was a demo bike - I have an RRSL model in the blue/white, though I have to say I prefer the colour of the one in this video. Really does it for me!
Wow, there’s so much disinformation here, it’s shocking. Pun intended. Half the reason for setting the sag correctly, is for front to rear balance. So, the bike doesn’t oversteer or understeer. Your comfort and having the suspension react to bumps properly is going to come from your compression and rebound settings. Sag should be set using a percentage of the listed fork and shock stroke numbers, not the actual stroke. That’s because the eye to eye measurement on the shock and the axle to crown measurement on the fork don’t change with zero weight on it. If your pump and the air valves in your fork and shock are working properly, you will never lose air from your suspension when you detach your shock pump. The only air that comes out is from the pump itself. The lower reading you get when you attack the pump, is from the pump filling up with air. This amount of disinformation from you guys is very disturbing!
Holy crap, Doddy went to Mondraker! I had no idea! Glad to see you still working!! Mad respect to you! You're the one, along with Calvin Jones, helped me gain the knowledge to build my own bike professionally, which I've finally done this past December.
Doddy! Glad to see you back making videos. Joe you’re loving it over at Mondraker!
A would like to add a few points:
- most the pumps are designed in a way to disengage the valve core before the seal is broken. So the hissing that you hear during the removal is the air pressure coming from the hose. The reason for the lower reading is that when you attach pump the next time the hose has to fill up with high pressure air and that will come from the shock/fork.
- to measure the sag you don't need to unwind your compression dial. It has an effect only the suspension is moving. Just think about it: you change your pressure to change your sag and not add compression damping. The only reason that extra damping changes the number of bottom outs is that the fork/shock will compress slower and the impact will dissipate.
- on the other hand lockouts could affect the measurement because they could radically increase the time until the suspension settles or completely close the damping circuit and prevent any movement.
- the only real reason some manufacturers recommend the removal of the shock pump while cycling the suspension and equalizing the negative chamber is to prevent any possibility to damage your fork/frame/shock/pump while doing it. Yes, technically it add a bit of extra weight to the system that technically affect the measured sag, but glass of water is more than a shock pump so it is very minimal.
- the last, very important point is you should always make the equalization process before measuring the sag because the negative chamber has an effect on the spring rate! On this note: the equalization point of the positive and the negative chamber is very close to the sag point, so if you are setting the sag on fork/shock with low pressure that could also look like loosing pressure while detaching and attaching the pump.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
We always go with the recommendations of the component manufacturers that we specify on our bikes (in this case the fork/shock example used - Fox).
This is to make sure those not familiar with bike set up can get to a good set up without accidentally or unknowingly compromising it.
Recommendations are just that though, you are free to set things up as you please.
Again, thanks for commenting!
Kudos for adding Doddy to the Mondraker family ..So much knowledge , love for Mtb bikes .. Best to you Doddy cheers ..
Es ist super das Mondraker einen eigenen TV Kanal hat mit jemanden der richtig pass an diesen TV Kanal hat mach weiter so 😁😁 hab auch die Freude 2 Mondraker Bikes mein eingen zu nennen 😄😄😄😄😄
Bloody hell I've missed your tech advice Doddy, good to see you back.
I’m here for Doddy. If u have him u now have me.
Worth subscribing just to get Doddy back on the screen. Top work Doddy!
I used to love doddy's vids on gmbn tech, I'm really glade to see him keeping the good stuf now at mondraker. I've been riding a dune rr, a crafty, and now a superfoxy,. Good to see Doddy enjoying those amazing bikes.
Doddy doing great videos again. Keep it up! 🤙🏼
Rainy cold bath or sunny warm Alicante 😂 fair play doddy
Ha, thanks! I love the riding around Alicante - but I'm equally happy in filthy wet conditions in the UK. Although today I do have two bikes to fully wash, shoes and have to wash and reproof my waterproofs. Meh!
I always find getting off the bike without messing up the o-rings very difficult, especially on the rear shock where every millimeter counts. What do you think of the following idea? Make a mark on the fork and shock for the sag you want with a sharpie, mount your phone on the handlebars and set up your GoPro at the fork or shock so that you can see where you are.
Should you set up your bike differently when you plan a day at a bike park where you will ride out of the saddle all the time that if you plan a big tour where you will be seated for most of the time?
Get your sag right n get your swag on 😎
Legend 🙌
i love my crafty xr but i have to say that your neat is gorgeous
The Crafty XR is a lovely bike! The Neat I rode in this video was a demo bike - I have an RRSL model in the blue/white, though I have to say I prefer the colour of the one in this video. Really does it for me!
Wow, there’s so much disinformation here, it’s shocking. Pun intended. Half the reason for setting the sag correctly, is for front to rear balance. So, the bike doesn’t oversteer or understeer. Your comfort and having the suspension react to bumps properly is going to come from your compression and rebound settings. Sag should be set using a percentage of the listed fork and shock stroke numbers, not the actual stroke. That’s because the eye to eye measurement on the shock and the axle to crown measurement on the fork don’t change with zero weight on it. If your pump and the air valves in your fork and shock are working properly, you will never lose air from your suspension when you detach your shock pump. The only air that comes out is from the pump itself. The lower reading you get when you attack the pump, is from the pump filling up with air. This amount of disinformation from you guys is very disturbing!