Using Joint Compound as Molding Paste
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- I've heard about people doing this for a long time, but is it really a good idea? Let's find out, together!
Also a note I forgot to mention is that the Joint Compound will take much longer to dry.
Addendum 2019: Joint Compound will start to mold in the bucket after a couple of years...Molding paste has a much longer shelf life.
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Joint compound is fine to do sculpture art on canvas, etc. It will hold up just fine. I use it all the time in my art. I form my art with it on a canvas, get the shapes I want then I sand it lightly after it drys. Then i gesso it, then seal it with a varnish or medium, then paint it the colors I want. AFter that I seal it a couple of times with a clear gloss or matt varnish, holds up fine.
Based on the need to sand, seal, and varnish. I feel like the molding paste might be a more cost effective option for you. Based on your process you're spending more time and money on getting the compound to behave like paint that is worth the effort in my opinion. But hey if it works for you keep doing it!
Do I need to use gesso or primer on joint compound if my intent is to just paint it some matte color? I don’t fully understand artistry terms but am looking to make textured art for fun and therapy and figured it would be cost effective to use joint compound instead of modeling paste
@Starr Fly Gesso is essentially a primer coat to give your paint a better adhesion to the canvas or other support. If your goal is to use the joint compound as a textured base then paint over it, then I absolutely would recommend a gesso layer before you begin with the color.
Absolutely! I lay down designs on canvas, let it dry 36 hours and then have fun! 😊
I use it with and without adding a medium over it, depending on the effect I want. There is a place for anything you can use to make art work.
1 part white latex paint to 4 parts joint compound= a much better representation of molding paste. Especially if you add acrylic paint to it or paint over it when it's dry. molding paste is still better, but if you're poor like me or run out and need a quick substitute. This'll do ya.
Does latex similar to acrylic?
@@DietitianSafaManasrah Modern "latex" house paint is actually an acrylic emulsion with some conditioners and stabilizers added. The colors are lesser quality than artist's acrylics and the house paint dries flatter (physically). Some house paint may actually be more durable to abuse and exposure to the weather (or at least indoor environments). The pigments used in artist colors provide more brilliance and contribute significantly to the price. That said, house paint can be used where economy matters but the viscosity is pretty limited to liquid only.
I went to the comments and I started reading your comment and the recipe! I’m hoping maybe you can answer this question for me I don’t have a lot of money to buy the expensive molding paste, which I cannot afford, so I’ve been trying to figure out the recipe for spackling mixed with cornstarch, water, and adding some acrylic paint. My question would be doing 3-D art using this type of recipe will it eventually crack at least that’s what I’ve been hearing everybody has their technique. Is there anything we can add to the spackling, etc. recipe to make it pliable so that it doesn’t crack years down the road I do hear people saying when they’ve made it very thick on the canvas that it started to crack a few days later, and I believe that’s due to putting too many layers and not allowing it to dry. Not sure if you know of something that I could add to the spackling that could make it more pliable! Thanks for your recipe
@sylviaramierez4770 I'll jump in here as the OP of the comment has never responded to anyone in 6 years. I recently finished up a video comparing molding paste with 2 custom alternatives and long story short it's cheaper to buy the stuff from golden than it is to make your own which can only perform worse than what's commercially available.
@@cinderblockstudiosthank you so much for answering his? I appreciate it!
Also another thing you could try is use the Acrylic Joint Compound and add an entire small tub of the Commercial Molding Paste to it (ie. Liquitex or Golden). This might encourage longevity. I say try anything to produce your own. I'm no Scientist, but I love tinkering around, and I have YET to have a failure! Artists materials are vastly overpriced! Most Artists are poor, so if you can make your own .... shoot, do it!
I use joint compound to experiment with or practice techniques, but if making something that needs to stand the test of time I will invest in the good stuff. There’s no replacement for artist-quality mediums, but they’re WAY too expensive to play around with.
For any that need to know,
Joint compound is not quite Spackling
Joint compound is for using at installation for sealing joints along with the use of tape, not gonna be as good for repair as Spackling is because Spackling is gonna accept paint better, and it's white. Some even goes on Pink and dries to white.
Compound sticks to other Compound or the substrate.
Compound doesn't stick as well to a painted wall.
But if you do another layer, your spackling is going to stick better from that point on
Good thing is Joint compound can be bought in a powder form or ready mixed
And Spackling can be bought in a small amount for like $4 US. Then you can test it.
I use joint compound all the time. Once you paint it and varnish it, it looks great.
Hey a question, how archival is it? That is, does it ever crack or chip on any of your works? Thanks again.
Me too.
You can also add some water to the drywall mud to get a smoother consistency ... and luckily I do t know to many people that would dare go up to someone’s textured painting and start scraping it.. if it has paint on it or mixed with it... it’s not going to crumble or go anywhere .. u less ofcourse if you start trying to scrape it off.. otherwise it is a great substitute... if you have a little hand held immersion blender... that does great for mixing your paint with drywall... adding sand, whatever you want... just add a little bit of water to get the right consistency that you are seeking.
Scrapes and bumps are also a concern during transportation. You can say pack it well, but there’s still the risk of bumping it oneself while carrying it or putting it in the crate. It’s reasonable to make art that holds up to a little wear.
JC will work on a board, but not on canvas or any flexible substrate. JC dries rock hard and will brake off if the canvas flexes for whatever reason like moving, too much of a chance to take. I use adhesive caulking compound which dries hard but does not become brittle.
Caulk is GENIUS!
@@visionray. Never noticed...why did I say "adhesive compound"? It's "acrylic compound"! Duh.
@@peterloedden9716 well there are adhesive acrylic compounds as well so your comment is definitely understandable
Even years later this is SO useful. Thank you for the review, exactly what I was looking for!
Tip:- Acrylic joint compound has all the same properties as any “Artist” Modeling paste. No problem as mixing in Acrylic paint to it as it is flexible and has the same adherence to your fine art support as the normal art acrylic mediums on the market....it is much cheaper to buy at hardware stores which is the big plus...just make sure is does say Acrylic joint compound on the package. Cheers.
Artist Molding Paste is a higher quality and finer ground product. As others have commented there's a lot more to the concept of using joint compound than simply applying and mixing with it. JC on stretched canvas is known to chip off, as well as not being super archival. Yeah you're getting more for your money at a hardware store, but you're not necessarily getting the best product for an artist.
Cinder Block Studios Acrylic Gap Filler is made with Acrylic Polymer. It does not crack. Construction Joint compound is different and is full of Calcium carbonate and is best for ridged supports. Once painted and sealed they do both work extremely well and will probably out live most crafters. As far as being Archival goes you would be surprised at what is actually put in many products labelled as “Artist” quality. I have been using many Acrylic products for over forty years and when teaching children’s craft classes these products are a great way for parents to save money.
Ah ok, Gap Filler isn't really the same as joint compound. Had me a little confused for a minute there. Out of curiosity how is the gap filler in terms of extending colors? I didn't really talk about that in the video too much.
Probably should also note stuff from the hardware store has a shorter shelf life.
???
+Cinder Block Studios sorry I meant Chemical Engineer!! Anyway I have found it is good to try products of all kinds when experimenting which to me is the fun part of art. Cheers
you can ad plaster of Paris for more strength and won't crack
Yes plaster of Paris will make it hard. I thought I could use a Dremel after using mixing it but it's so hard it's like concrete!
...thank you so much for this tip!
The joint compound shrinks after drying.. 😑.. I wanted to make sculpture flowers.. But this compound shrinks and cracks... 😒
works fine if you gesso the canvas first and then use it sparingly and not too heavy that it fall/flakes off. After it is all dry you can also spray protect it with eurathane
I would also add some 'Gum Arabic' which might help it to stick to the substrate.
Gum Arabic is not flexible and is water soluble. But that also describes the joint compound. They are compatible but why waste the gum arabic.
I'm not just painting this stuff on, I'm making little decorative medallions with it for pastiglia e mucchi or stucco decorated late medieval-style boxes. Golden brand gesso and coarse molding paste are fun, but expensive. We have a lot of white acrylic paint we can mix with the drywall compound, and some waterproof wood glue, and plaster. I spent money on these things, and it would be great to use them up. I could make a ton of gesso decorations (a layer at a time) before running out and having to buy art supplies. The main thing I'm worried about is things being waterproof.
I've seen it mentioned already, amongst other additives but I feel like mixing in some pva (Elmers) alone would yield a good substitute. Maybe.
I'd be concerned about the glue sticking in your brushes long term though. Would likely ruin the bristles pretty fast.
@@cinderblockstudios Soak brushes in 'Anti Bacterial Gel' (very cheap) .. this removes all traces of Glue ... Voila!
Thanks for your thoughts.
I make my own modeling paste out of baby powder and gesso (which I also make) and sometimes I
switch up the powder with baking soda or plaster of paris with school glue and acrylic paint..
Wow interesting mix!
Can you tell me the mix ratio Liz?
Yes, plz supply the recipe for us, TY! 👍🙏🌞
@@JanisGagliardifrom what I've learned..it's 3TBLS Powder(baking soda is what I would use). 1Tbls PVC glue (Elmer's etc) and up to 1Tbs paint. I've also seen 2pts Powder 1part PVC glue, and 1part acrylic paint
Add a glob of Tacky glue to your drywall compound and it works great.
There is an artist that uses joint compound mixed with glue and some cellulose, and it makes a really fine sculpture product over an armature for bigger projects, where a molding paste would not work and be way too expensive
Obviously if you're' goal is sculpture and not painting then using a painting medium would be silly.
I use Plaster of Paris, it's never failed me yet.. way cheaper then
the products on the market..
wow, really? When I tried plaster (just mixed with water) and enhanced plaster (mixed with water and glue), it just cracked right off my surface
Awesome vid, informative.
How can we make 'alternatives/DIY' pastes archival?
I hope there's a book about DIY archival quality mediums.
That's sort of the downside to a DIY paste is that you're sacrificing archival quality for value. I think if you'd start to find a way to make your own archival paste you'll end up spending more money than just buying the real thing.
Sorry, you are WRONG! I cover mine with gesso. After that it
acceptes acrylic paint...And any other toppings I add.♥️
Longevity is the key word. This is the answer to the question I have been searching for. Thank you.
Thank you, I really needed this review :)
Dude, I come from the future-year 2024. A lot of crazy stuff has happened that you wouldn’t believe, but that's a story for another time. All I can say is that the cost of spackle paste has jumped to around $60 now, not $20. Liquitex and Golden are still charging an arm and a leg for peanut butter size jar of their shit. Some things never change! 🤣🤣🤣
Great video! I'm saving a lot with this trick, thank you!
Hey, they make an acrylic spackle, by red devil. Maybe you can make a vid comparing this with modeling paste and regular spackle
Interesting though for sure! Though I try to avoid buying stuff just for a video and never to have a use for it again.
@@cinderblockstudios its only 5 bucks for 8 oz on Amazon. I bought some to try. I'll let you know how it works out so others can see. It should behave more like acrylic modeling paste than the one you tried in the vid. its good for stone, and ironically cinder blocks, lol and other substrate as well.
@@joewelsh4714 yeah I'd be interested in seeing what results you get
Mix some PVA with it, It makes it less inclined to powder and makes it smoother. No, it may not last a 1000 years, but I'll settle for 995.
For the price of the pva and the compound, you might as well just get the paste
I have not yet tried adding any sort of texturing media to a painting, so to have this information as a reference before investing in a product is a blessing. Thank you for this video.
Totally disagree with you. I sculpted a whole mural on the wall. Once it is fully dry, it is as hard as a rock. once you seal it, it is not going to go anywhere. very versatile product.
LOVE this!!! What if you add white glue with the joint compound?
Glue has a big problem with yellowing, not to mention that it would likely have issues with drying into your brushes.
@@cinderblockstudios yellowing! I never thought of that part. thank you
i would imagine , if your on a budget, that if you clear coated the final product, it would work out , but if you are selling the product, that's kinda left handed and dishonest
I have been in a quandary about this as a budding artist. Your video was an answer to a prayer, and has saved me from teary mistakes. Thank you! (Of course I subscribed!)
I enjoyed this video 👍🏽
Very helpful video. Thanks for sharing it!
Don't' think I would be trying to scrape an art piece like you are. ...And many layers of acrylic paint over the joint compound will render it stronger and dust free. Varnish adds extra protection and durability as well.
Try adding white glue to the joint compound, makes it smoother and more durable.
Thanks for the tip, I'll try it.
As a homeowner, art teacher, and artist - if that is the conclusion what does that say about our walls?! And no one should be trying to damage artwork with texture!
Not sure what you mean. Not only is joint compound a staple in modern home and commercial buildings for patches and filling cracks in walls, but as an artist texture is one of the basic elements of design which exists in most if not all media.
Hi Nice Educational Video. I am one of your Subscriber. I have a question:
Some Artist are doing their own Modeling Paste using this one example mixture of
Baby Powder, Acrylic Paint and Wood Glue
1. Now in Jointing Compound - If I will add White Acrylic Paint Plus Wood Glue to the Jointing Compound does it will have the strength of the Regular Artist Modeling Paste?
2. I recently encountered in the internet the Sargeant Brand of "Sargeant Sculp It". Can I use this in replacement of the regular modeling paste?
Hoping for your reply on thigh S matter. More Power
Glue is a highly problematic additive to any paint. Many glues will yellow over time, or in the case of wood glue it would yellow as soon as it dries. Not to mention how brittle it could potentially make the paste. As far as the Sargent Sculpt It, I've never used nor heard of it so I couldn't say one way or the other. For the money spent on a bunch of alternatives, you could just get a molding paste for the same money that wouldn't have any question of holding up.
@@cinderblockstudios Thank you
Thanks Cinder block; I just bought golden's light paste because I'll be using it on fabric. It was demonstrated on National Quilters site.and I'm inspired. Good of you to take the time to clue us in.
hrm...not sure how it would work on regular fabric. Golden also sells a product they call GAC-900 which is used for heatsetting fabric. I'd be concerned that the light molding paste would fall off in a washing cycle.
yes, I'm also concerned but I'm putting it on a tote with material I got in Africa and it probably will not be washed for a long time: and then meh! Ill do some initials all over and an elephant on the pocket. Here's hopin. Thank you so much for your speedy responses.
added -- but I will check out the Golden GAC-900
and I got a good chuckle out of your definitive answer.
Awesome tips! Thank you for sharing honey!
Happy New Year! xoxo
Thanks ) Patreon is great if you can take it out of your Art Fees which mine tend to escalate!
Thank you for this demonstration!!!
It was the best I’ve found!
I use joint compound all the time. I love it!
Appreciate any help I can get. bought what we call drywall paste (not sure if that is joint compound or sparkle ) in a premixed tub. Lovely and smooth but it does not hold shapes it droops. I want something I can sculpt with so I can make raised petals or birds wings or something that lifts off the canvas not just stencil etc. It also drowns out colour so that would be costly if working with colour unless applying on top. So after searching it suggests using plaster of paris which I did and added some to my drywall paste. Yes, it thickened it but was grainy and not buttery and also dried way too fast. I am at my wits end trying to find something that actually works that is not a fortune. I read add glue and add this that and the other but nothing seems to produce a good paste. Do I really have to pay for commercial paste?
Definitive answer = maybe?
Yeah pretty much
In conversation is totally wrong we deal with mortar in the brick outside the mortar depending on the type does seal up solid but like anything if you hit it with a hammer it's going to break, why would you take an art picture and hit it with a hammer to see if it's going to break duh and taking joint compound and doing artwork has made it so artist can afford their medium, someone figured this out took joint compound added a little acrylic mixture put it in a small jar Walla to get 20 bucks a pop don't be naive you can use joint compound you can smooth it with a brush and water or even when you're done you can sand it lightly I smooth it with brush and water-oh, it's wonderful to work with on canvas don't get it too heavy because you're thin out the compound and then it will crack
2 years after making this video and I can say a big downside to the joint compound...mold! Molding paste (despite the name) isn't going to go bad in 2 years time.
Cinder Block Studios do you mean mold in the bucket of material or mold on the artwork on the canvas/board? I’m an art student and I’ve been drawing on Hardboard with joint-compound primed with house paint for a few years now and I’m trying to decide if I should continue to do this before I get too deep into a series. I absolutely love the textured look of the joint-compound and I would ideally like to stick to it but I want my work to be archival. The only other material I’ve tried has been artist ceramic stucco mixed with gesso and it’s just not good.
Cinder Block Studios I don’t mind if JC molds quickly in the container, but I’m worried about everything else
It's mold in the bucket, due to issues with moisture. Once it's dry it doesn't matter as much.
That's just bad information. Joint compound can be damaged just by pressing a finger into it. Modeling paste is far more durable.
Haha...love the way you brought the bucket up with such such naughtiness
Very interresting point there ...but if you learn to master mixtures plaster will do the job most of the time in less your a rich Artist or have specifics to respect.... and enjoy keeping your money in your pocket...i hope i wont get Plastered for this comment...:)
If you add pvc glue with paint with the joint compound I think it would be a really great texture and stay on alittle better than just the joint compound.
possibly but might cause harm to brushes
@@cinderblockstudios I suppose any of it would harm your brushes if you didn't wash them out and didn't let it dry. I didn't think you even used paint brushes to apply modeling paste or texture paste to your projects anyway, or if you are using stencils but don't see how you'd be able to paint with this texture paste anyway. Wouldn't that leave brush marks in the texture of your project? Anyway, cool ideas you have, others have mentioned using joint compound, and some plaster of paris or just baby powder glue and paint for modeling paste instead of the expensive pastes. There are so many of them it's really hard to choose, I like making my own as much as possible and enjoyed your comparisons of the different pastes. Didn't seem to be much difference between them really except the joint compound does create the powder stuff, so that probably wouldn't be good for most projects like you said.
The vast majority of paste usage is with a brush. Personally I don't understand the trend of not wanting brush marks at all. It's a personal preference for sure, but kinda defeats the purpose of painting to eliminate the core of impasto painting.
I have also experimented with other diy mediums as well with mixed results (for a future video eventually). The biggest issued I've found is longevity and shelf life. While a plaster/acrylic/glue mix might work once, you can't bottle/jar it without problems. For the money spent on alternative materials I personally would rather have something I don't have to mix up in the moment every time (as I would think many artists would agree).
@@cinderblockstudios I agree, it's all an artists preference, and in our creations for what I am using it for I am not wanting brush marks but I agree there is many techniques using a brush and pretty amazing things that you can do with a brush so look forward to hearing or seeing the video on more DIY experiments since many just can't afford the expensive store stuff if you come up with a recipe for something that is very close to the expensive stuff and alot more affordable!
joint compound will hold up you can prime it after then paint it with any kind of paint i use it all the time also you can do clear coat of resin as well the only thing that i would sugest is gessoing if you using it on canvas or any type of art work
very helpful! and I love how you have started organizing your studio
Your thoughts on lightweight wall spackle being used to build up form and texture underneath acrylic modeling paste?
Would be about the same I suppose...would have to test it out to be sure. Like the compound though it's a matter of how will it apply and accept the bounce of a stretched canvas.
@@cinderblockstudios I have found a recipe for lightweight spackle combined with acrylic gel medium. It seems to be working!
@marsandmeepsterobrock7629 I would be interested to know your recipe
What if you were to mix equal parts or a 2 to 1 ratio etc etc, how will that work?
Don't know. That's a test you'll have to do I suppose.
What if you added acrylic polymer to it?
You mean like polymer medium? It would likely have the same effect as adding in a paint color. Would help adhesion a little, but no better than using just a color of paint.
I use joint compond for outline on my hardboard but it breaks? Why
it's not designed for anything but to be spread on a wall and painted over. I imagine your hardboard is a bit too smooth for it to stick to by itself
@@cinderblockstudios yes hardboard was smoth from one side but if tht was issue ... Thn how can i do ur texture mandala? On hard board? Is there any base? Which i apply ist?
Try a 1:1 mix with gesso
I would think if you use joint compound, once you paint over it, it should hold up pretty well as long as the canvas doesn't flex much.
Except that's what canvas does is flexes
I found that joint compound cracks..its not smooth.
it also molds
Hi. Can you recommend please a joint compound in Italy or maybe analogue of it. I can't found it here🥲 Thanks😊
Spackle is very similar, however I do wonder how much either would be used with so many older buildings requiring plaster. Might not be a cheaper option in your country compared to the molding paste
mixing my own home made modeling paste from early 1960s :)
Marija Wozniak , can you teach me the recipe? pls...
Hi I wanted to know if I wanted to put the joint compound on a mirror how could I get it to stick?
You could try prepping it with some GAC-200, but I wouldn't expect it to stick at all even with the prep.
Cinder Block Studios do you think sanding the mirror and maybe trying cement would work?
@@shibaackerman Sanding would help the issue of the mirror being non-pourous, I wouldn't go as far as cement though, but you would still likely need an acrylic gel or paste after sanding to prep the surface. Not sure what you're project is, but I didn't suggest sanding since I was assuming you wanted to leave the surface of the mirror undamaged.
can i use joint compound or silicone caulk or spackle in silicon molds to make embellishments?
Never used a silicon mold so I can't say for sure. My guess would be that the caulk as it's also silicone would adhere to the mold, while the spackle or compound would break off after it's dry.
yes, but it takes for ever to dry. It's best on shallow molds like cake decorating molds. Nothing thicker than 1/4 inch unless you want to wait weeks for it to dry.
You would need to use acrylic latex caulk (NOT silicone caulk) in silicone molds (best to use in very shallow molds, like the other commenter stated). I use it all the time in my molds. Works great! 🙂
Ok, scratch that one! Thanks.
I actually something funny, I see that u have a cinder block there (Its for fire place fuel right?) You can actually make it out of a couple of bricks of wheet bix and about 3 tablespoons of raw oats, mix with it water, then dry it crack dry in the microwave, and it makes really tough cinder u cant break it by hand!! haha. needs to be varnished tho cause its water prone.
Nope my place is too small for a fireplace.
@@cinderblockstudios woops sorry ive got off on a tangent again inventing bullshit in my head, sorry...
Nice experiment thanks for sharing 👍🏼
What’s the difference between joint compound and plaster?
Plaster is more traditionally used to cover large areas and create wall texture (though it can be known to be more fragile), while joint compound is more for filling small areas. From an art standpoint I can't speak on any advantages or disadvantages with plaster as I've never used it to do anything beyond make molds
Definitely (pause)..... maybe hahaha ha definitely waiting for an answer hahahahaha
Why do people talk about longevity issues when they have no way to experiment such issues on joint compound. What do you do, wait twenty years and see what the results are? If you leave the joint compound by itself and it turns into powder when scratched, what happens if you add such things as PVS glue, acrylic paint and even some type of sealant? Anselm Kiefer uses dry twigs and straw for his work, for Christ's sake...
While one likely won't do a 20 year canvas test, similar applications on home diy projects can certainly be used as a baseline. Granted my comparison is just a general rule of thumb, and not necessarily an absolute. If you find ways to use cheaper materials for your work, more power to you.
Thank you ! I've been so confused for months 😁
This was very helpful thank you
Thank you! for being honest🙂
Does joint compound adhere well to wood?
Would probably perform similarly to it being applied to a wall, but would depend a little bit on how the wood is prepared.
@@cinderblockstudios how do you prepare wood for joint compound? Wood primer first then joint compound?
I mean ideally the paste is still the better option, but if you're building a panel up from scratch a layer of a clear acrylic medium or a layer of gesso will get you started as would be the case with any painting.
@@cinderblockstudios thank you! :)
Thank you! Excellent explanàtions
Would either product work on patching a garden statue. My stone dragon is either painted or glazed with a terra cotta (clay pot colored) surface that has worn away
and chipped in a few places. Not sure if it is stone or concrete underneath. I also have to reconstruct the top portion on one ear. Have you any suggestions on what
kind of product to use, including a glue that adheres to stone surfaces. I have had good luck with acrylic paints for outdoor figures, but not much experience with
repair work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
They wouldn't. Acrylic paste and joint compound aren't mortar or concrete. I'm no expert on sculpture or anything but I might work with some molded plaster or some quick mix mortar filler then paint it.
@@cinderblockstudios Thanks you so much for pointing me in the right direction. I've been painting (oil/acrylic/watercolor) for years, but patching this adorable dragon is
a project I've never tackled before. I'll do some more research into other products like you suggested. Thanks :)
A lot of statuary is made with "cast stone", that is either a cement product or epoxy product. There are sources for the material, but but a small repair, acrylic modeling paste would work, though exposure to weather and sun may eventually cause it to degrade.
@@edeaglehouse2221 Thanks for the advise. I went for a quick drying cement and it was easy to sculpt (after letting it set up a bit first). Been two years and it's still holding up well. Couldn't find a terra cotta paint to match the original color or texture, so decided to paint the entire dragon is various shades of green, cream spots and bronze claws. (acrylic paints are amazing!). I only have a few places to touch up this summer and my friend will be as good as new. 😊If anything else chips away, I'll keep in mind using acrylic modeling paste for repairs next time. It sounds easier to apply and sculpt. Thanks again.
Woke great in mow media work, stencils,
So, get either type of paste or just the regular?
If you aren't familiar with molding pastes as a whole, just start with the regular molding/modeling paste and work from there.
Cinder Block Studios ,hi, i need help. can make a recipe of colored modelling paste. i prepare to acylic but i want the impasto effect of oil paint.
Sorry didn't notice the response until now. Heavy Body acrylics will have the same impasto effects that oil paints have without the need for additional pastes.
Thanks
Thank you
Gr8! Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks
joint compound will crack if you use on canvas as the canvas has flex in it.. If you use on a board surface it will do fine.
No it doesn't crack on canvas I have pictures years old
thank you.......
I saw your shirt! ❤️ From Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
Technically it's "from" PA. Old mission trip shirt.
@@cinderblockstudios I could only make out the West Virginia part. My husband will like that. He's from Phillipsburg, PA but they have lived in West Virginia most of his life. Which is an odd thing because most people leave West Virginia to go to other states. LOL.
@@cinderblockstudios just curious have you ever used one compound and added plaster of Paris? That stuff gets harder than a rock. I thought I could trim it but I think I needed a concrete chisel. 😁
@@Higherup1018 I haven't but when I prepped my wall mural I mixed it with some gesso for a decent resulting ground.
@@cinderblockstudios Niceand since you seem very knowledgeable and will answer questions. 😁
Have you had any experience with assemblage art? I want to put some objects on wood with texture around it. Maybe a version of Starry Nights.
I think I may have to screw two things on since they are little heavy.
But my question is can I use plywood or should I get MDF board then can I seal it using gesso rather than varnish or something that will take me another month for it to dry?
And if you don't have time to answer me or don't know that's okay. Wearing the West Virginia shirt got me. LOL
Could you help me how can mettalic it
Not sure what you mean
If i want make mettalic paste how ??
Uh...perhaps with some iridescent acrylic mixed in. Personally I'd use anything metallic as a finishing layer to a piece rather than mixed with a paste.
Colored mica powders as an additive.
can you cast a sculpture with it?
I wouldn't try that for either of these things. If you're looking to cast and mold use plaster
@@cinderblockstudios why is that, isnt it actually plaster anyway? (water soluble plastic + chalk?)
@@shitheadjohnson2797 the JC might be plaster based to some degree, but it's not designed for casting. It cracks WAY easier and has issues with mold in the long run if not painted. A bag of dry plaster has a much longer shelf life and will dry more evenly. Granted I can't say with 100% certainly though since I haven't tried it myself.
Plaster cures through a chemical reaction, much like cement does. Joint compound dries. The main ingredient is calcium based, but in the joint compound, it's only a bulking agent used to fill gaps or provide a smooth surface for painting. Dried joint compound is soft and neither strong nor durable and will flake or fall off unless protected with something like paint.
Hi Ben . I prefer molding paste . but I use the joint compound or homemade molding paste on occasion . I add regular Elmers glue and white paint to it . What is your opinion of these additions . And no I dont do anything professional . Thanks
The compound's biggest drawback is that it isn't designed to be used as a painting medium, so it may have adhesion issues as well as issues with chipping or rubbing off. I haven't tried is super extensively on a variety of supports though so that would be up to you to test out everything from canvas to wood, to see what works.
As for the glue. While it probably works to some degree, the glue can cause some issues if it dries into your brushes. Plus it's also not designed to be a permanent glue, so in 5-10 years time you might have some adhesion issues there as well, especially if the piece sees a lot of natural light.
thank you soo much
Cinder Block Studios 1
how about adding marble filler
marble dust powder I mean
thanks for the video.
What is the verdict? Would joint compound crack on a large canvas?
More than likely.
When you are done , lightly mist with water and smooth out any bubbles or cracks from when it dried but it shouldn’t crack if you mix with water first.. remember drywall mud is made to go three coats and then sanded of any bubbles or cracks( more so bubbles
Yes. Joint compound is intended for walls that don't flex much. Polymer spackle paste should work, as it's basically like an acrylic emulsion.
by the way, acrylic never really cures, it just dries
I'm not sure about the validity of that statement.
@@cinderblockstudios epoxies cure, rtv's cure, i'm pretty sure you have to add something to it ,to make it cure, i had the dupont paint class a million years ago(i paint cars), so i could be wrong, but that was the way i remember to to seperate them from a classroom point of view
@@cinderblockstudios now i have to go look it up
Splitting hairs. Once acrylic "dries" the polymer chains link up and you can't reconstitute it with water. It is more akin to curing.
Really helpful. Thank you.