CA Glue vs Wood Glue!
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I wanted to see for myself how strong CA glue is compared to wood glue.
CA Glue: amzn.to/2PKMaRY
Wood Glue: amzn.to/2srs5bi
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If you want a strong and quick joint glue the middle with wood glue and just a dot of CA at either end. The CA will act as a clamp wile the wood glue dries
Now that's thinkin'...
Gee thanks mr obvious😂
Perfect, you saved me a lot of typing!
It works great. I am using a 30 minute planner ready CA glue. Its made to replace wood glue. It's hard to find but it's good stuff. I use both titebond and the 30 minute CA glue and get the best of both worlds. Fast and strong.
Here is a example of it being used.
Making A Hammer/Mallet using DAP Rapid Fuse Wood Adhesive - RUclips
CA glue is great for quick positive attachment of trims and moldings, particularly in hard to reach places. Once in place, trims are not generally subjected to many stresses. Other wood working projects, such as cabinets and drawers are subject to various stresses and vibrations so a much stronger bond is required. For these applications, wood glues will almost always outperform CA glues and clamping pressure increases the penetration of wood glues. The other obvious factor is cost. I use CA glues very sparingly because of their high cost. Sometimes use a few dabs of CA glue in combination with wood glue for accurate positioning before clamping. A $25 gallon of Titebond II wood glue will glue up hundreds of times more board feet of wood than $25 worth of CA glue.
instaBlaster...
I used ca glue and accelerator for my mdf trim in basement 20 years ago - no issues whatsoever. Never budged!
Did you try to rip is apart with your bare hands like a Canadian woodsman?
I was watching thinking the exact same thing you brought up at the end. The environmental cost over convenience. I’m glad you brought it up. And I totally agree I’d use CA glue but prefer to use more traditional glues
Standard wood glue is just so proven to be effective, and has been used for decades. And the fact it wipes with a damp cloth just makes it easy to control. All these adhesive manufacturers are trying to reinvent the wheel.
I do a lot of hardwood trim I find cheap white or yellow glue is best by far, less waste, less mess and if what your doing is awkward then I find Collins mitre clamps and PVA is far best. A wipe with damp cloth and the jobs good
I've used CA glue for a few years. I do a ton of trim work and this has been the best thing since sliced bread. The true value of the ca glue is being able to meet your seems perfectly before you install them. This allows you to wrap corners before hand and get perfect corners.
Hey Ben I have a couple tips for the CA glue. Keep some acetone on hand to clean up excess and remove it from your fingers. You dont HAVE to use the accelerator if you have more a few minutes to let the CA glue dry it will have more time to soak in more. And baking soda will also kick off the CA glue. I really enjoy the videos you do testing and comparing different methods!
Keep in mind though, that baking soda will make the glue even harder, so you really don't want any excess dripping out.
Not sure about up north, but here in the states, the easiest and most convenient way to get acetone is to just buy nail polish remover. Just make sure it is the smelly stuff, because that has the acetone in it.
"There's about a BILLION CA versus wood glue videos out there and mine is by no means going to be one of the best ones."
Way to set the bar HIGH.
First ever ca vs. wood glue video I’ve ever seen. You’ve done a great job! Your tests were practical and informative. Seems like both glues require good technique. Thanks for the great vid!!
Mate considering your footprints isn’t something most people think of.
Wise words and keep up the awesome videos.
Cheers from burning Australia.
Ben, you're totally my guy when it comes to figuring out how to work with my wood.
Dash-dot-dash is my go-to method. A short line of wood glue, a dot of CA glue, a short line of wood glue, a dot of CA glue...
I find it to be the best of both worlds. Fast setting (CA) and strong when fully cured (wood glue).
John Coloe that’s an interesting idea. I’ll give it a shot.
You can put wood glue on most of the joint for long term hold, and a bit of CA glue on the left over part of the joint for a quick short term grab. This technique works with other materials and glues too.
My other favorite use for CA glue is DIY double stick tape for work holding. Lay down a strip of painter's tape on the work surface, spoil board, etc.. Apply a thin bead of CA glue. Then apply a strip of painter's tape to the work piece where it'll mate with the strip of tape and CA glue on the work surface. Press the two together...und voilà!
Cleanly remove by prying the work piece off the work surface, then peeling the painter's tape from either or both faces. Effective. Convenient. Affordable.
Can't make out anything out of this.
I’ve built full 9’ long, 13” tall opening header details with 1x4 and 1/8 finished plywood using ONLY CA glue laying on a garage floor, and installing in one piece in minutes. The stuff ROCKS! Except when you don’t line up your parts right the first time.
Use deactivator tp reposition them in that case...
I feel like I have to say this, I'm not a carpenter or a builder or anything like that, but I love your videos and stuff so keep 'em coming 😊
CA glue is much stronger without the activator. The activator speeds up the curing from a minute or two down to a few seconds, howbeit, compromising the bond. The manufacturers trade on consumer ignorance. Subsequently they sell 2 produces (Glue and activator) to increase their profits. So unless saving a minute is critical, save your money and just buy CA glue and use as a stand alone glue, allowing the glue to reach it's maximum strength. Great Video/s, I've learnt over the years by Vancouver Carpenter. Personally I always use wood glue on wood.
Great analysis on the two glues. No one else has done this test to my knowledge and I’ve always wondered about it- Thanks
Ben, because we can't gauge how much force you are actually physically applying to break these joints, in the future if you used a hunting/fishing type scale and screwed these to a wall stud, you could incrementally hang weight on them until the joint broke to get a relatively scientific result.
no
Or he could be an adult and save the climate change by fastening his crammed butt plug all the way into his dirthole and then pulling until it pops burp seal ziplock style
You need project farm
I would also consider the cost of the glue and it's shelf life once opened. This has been a consideration when I was using Urethane glues such as Gorilla.
Also, I like to spread the glue (any glue) over the entire surface, not just a bead!
OMG! YOU, my good man, are an absolute blast! So down to Earth, well spoken, informative, fun to watch, and not fat and ugly. And the best part? You care about the planet! I'm no whacked out, vegan-ese tree-hugger, but I'm all for putting the brakes on ruining the planet. Your delivery is very entertaining too. Don't change a thing. Cheers dude!... Mark
ALSO: finally a Contractor that think of the environment. Impressive. Thank you
Well he’s Canadian so
I wonder about how things work and how well so I naturally like videos such as this. Thank you.
Thanks again for your videos Ben. I am a carpenter and have been doing a lot of drywall lately. Mostly due to your videos.....anyway I use a combination of both glues when doing trim. Couple dots of CA glue and some carpenters glue. Let's me save time and personally I find CA glue inconsistent. Especially with mdf.
From experience, if you forget about the activator and just saturate both ends of the MDF or wood you will have a bond that will not break! The material will rip apart from the glued joint.
As far as the impact on the environment, don't worry about little things like that. Nothing anyone does is going to change the final outcome.
Part of the problem you are having with the CA is the application. By applying the accelerator to one piece BEFORE you glue the joint, you are allowing the CA to cure upon contact when you do close the joint. It does not have an opportunity to soak in. Apply the glue, close the joint, and hit each side with the accelerator. You will still have to hold the joint closed while it cures regardless. There are a few extra benefits of doing things this way:
1. You have a little working time. You can reposition or slide the pieces before they cure.
2. Too much accelerator will generate heat in the glue joint (it can burn your skin if you touch it!) and make the joint more brittle.
Try this out if you have a chance. Your mileage may vary.
And one last thing - love the videos. Super informative, even more entertaining. Keep it up!
CA glue with activator is a fast setting glue but CA glue without activator, at least to me, seems stronger and isn’t that much slower, it glues in under a minute without activator.
Chris Lackey good to know. I’ve been wanting to try it without the activator and see how it does. Thanks for the tip.
Ca glue Is extremely strong for up and down motion but is not very shear resistant so side to side Force tends to break it apart pretty easily. However, for vertical downward Force, CA glue is extremely strong
INCONCLUSIVE. Surfaces were not scored rough to match the MDF board, hence the pine fracturing with the CA glue. Or amounts applied were random not equal, to overcome any surface and strictly test the adhesive. The last test item was flawed.
At least on furniture, I worked for a guy who would have me mix up a sizing of yellow glue and water (for end grain to end grain) and brush it on to the edges of the board before applying the glue and clamping. Truth is end gain sucks up a lot of glue. The sizing got absorbed by the capillaries so the glue didn't. I never tested it though. Just a thought.
Nice to see such a scientific approach to testing :)
Not sure if the brand you use is different but the CA glues I’ve seen people use apply glue first and then spray the activator- I guess theory being that an aerosol spray evaporates quickly so you want it to spray and stick the two together, whereas you spray and leave it as you glue up, so the amount of activator might be jeopardizing the strength
What does/do the instructions say? That a real question, not trying to be a smart-a@@.
What do the instructions say? That's a real question, not trying to be a smart-a@@.
Great video Mister V.C
🤔 glue such as ' Elmers' and similar... are the best.. hands down. If done properly and compressed at the joint until cured the fracture become stronger than the wood around it.. furthermore it's water based & you can make a perfect bead if u 'know how'
😎🚬
Annnnd... if u mix it with wood dust you can make a perfect paintable and /or stainable filler
Nice video! I like to put a couple thick lines of wood glue on each side, with a little bit of CA glue on each corner and the middle, so the joint looks like this: .__.__. I find the CA glue does an initial set pretty quick, and I still get most of the long-term strength of the wood glue.
Damn you are funny! Such a brilliant and talented artisan you are. Thx for all.
CA glue (superglue, secondenlijm etc, depending on the region) tends to leave white frosty crystals around the joined area that is more noticeable on smooth plastic. I think it's some vapour reacting with the humidity in the air and solidifying that often you see your own fingerprint permanently visible on the surface next to the glued area. It's a nightmare for model builders or whoever who require precise, clean finish without such a mess.
Thanks for asking about the environmental footprint of the products.
I like your point on the global foot print! I Agree 100%…stick to the old school way it’s tried and true!! And environmental friendly!! God bless and take care.
I feel like wood glue still leaves a little gap if not clamped. Also takes to long to dry. I like CA glue because it dries in less than minute. Also these pieces will be nailed to the wall. I never had CA glue come apart at my house after 2 years on my door casing or baseboards.
holy shit... I'm late to the boat on this one. As a woodworker, I sometimes just need something glued quick. Most recent project actually I was filling some LVL beam that had some gaps with little pine "kindling" that I carved out. Ended up wood gluing the little bits of wood in and using painters tape to hold those little bits while it dried overnight. CA glue would have been much faster, could have skipped the tape, and could have gotten to sanding within 20 minutes or so instead of the next day.
Accelerator is pretty expensive. It's much cheaper to just buy nail polish remover or a pint of acetone at Walmart. Accelerator is nothing but acetone. No other additives. And then you can use it to separate your fingers when you glue them together. It seems strange it will set the glue and also dissolve it, but accelerator is acetone.
Absolutely love this channel. It is my go to channel for all my home diy. I would love to see a video on repairing settling cracks in drywall. I have a home that’s about 10 years old, it’s a modular and I’m noticing a lot of settling cracks.
Thank you for bringing up the environmental cost. That is extremely significant.
Yah: and EXTREMELY rare.
Almost every casing (we call them architraves in the UK) in my house has cracked at the mitre joint. They're all real wood (pine probably) not mdf. I got so annoyed by this that when I installed some new ones in my bathroom I routed out the back of them and put perforated metal brackets in them. I used epoxy glue to stick the mitres together and to stick the brackets to the wood. The mitres haven't cracked. It's a lot of work but if it's on your own house, it's worth it.
That's actually a really good idea!
@@macccaaaaaaa Thank you! A lot of work, but I'm pleased I did it. I didn't bother in another room and the joints have hairline cracks. Wish I'd used the brackets there too...
How do you know the joints that cracked were even glued? Glueing joints in architraves & skirting is not necessarily standard practice.
@@DiscoFang Good point. However, in one of the rooms I fitted new ones and glued the mitres very carefully but didn't use the brackets. Small cracks appeared at the mitre joints within 2 years. Having said that, the glue that I used is called Gripfill. It's pretty good once it's fully hardened but maybe if I'd used wood glue the joints wouldn't have cracked.
Most early 20th century wood projects used anything from bone glues to your typical wood glue BUT if you look at the ie furniture of then you will see they used triangular wood blocks to add extra strength and sometimes even those blocks had screws in them. We're not talking mortice and tenon or overlap here but basic end to end woodworking. You could find over time that those blocks could come unglued but several understandable reasons for this including the switch to central heating where homes got warmer ?! It's quite an interesting subject overall re glues or adhesives. The first time I came across Cyanoalate adhesive was in the late 70s when used in washing machines for sealing purposes and obviously due to its high temperature co efficient working bond it did pretty well for fast repairs etc Then it was mega expensive! Great vid ! Stay safe! 👀👍
Thanks you did a very good job . Fair and Balanced. I am for the good old wood glue...Leo
Thank you! I am a fan who always watches in Korea.
Hi from Texas and Florida
😎🚬
조성배 hello wonderful person😀
Thanks Ben, I have seen videos where they demonstrated clamping pressure makes a big difference also. Might be a good follow up video later
I made a block off plate for our rider mower from wood. I just used ca glue to tack it together to see if it would work. It did and it's been on there for months now, it get's really wet when I use the hose to clean under the deck.
Mdf is actually flexible so the CA glue is a fast bond to correct some angle issue !
thanks for posting CA is as good if you can get enough on.
I was doing base mold today and I was wondering the same thing! I was hesitant with the CA glue even though its super convenient. I stuck to good ole fashioned tight bond and 23 gauge finish nails. I really think with MDF, CA glue is perfect. But normal wood like finger joint pine. Gotta stick with the OG stuff! Thanks for this video! Fed my curiosity
I find Ca glue kinda lame sauce with CA glue. But hot damn is it strong with real wood.
Hey, thanks for thinking about our planet. I am old school, (60) but it's time we all take that point of view. We're all living on a beautiful blue rock, let's do our best keeping it that way. My next car is a Tesla...or maybe the Cybertruck. :) Cheers.
The best is to use both. CA glue in both ends and wood glue between. This way you can glue wood without clamps.
Thank you very much, my questions are completely answered... good work
Thanks Ben!
Great video. I like the back to basics talk at the end on IF its worth it.
Thanks for the test! I am sticking with my Titebond with a couple of brads!
First time watching your Channel, it was under the recommended section -- found it very entertaining. using glues on furniture trims and cupboards is useful, but on trim around doors, windows or on Baseboards is unheard of in my experience because if you ever have to work on the doors and windows you would break them and have to purchase new ones and why would you ever use glue on baseboards unless your walls aren't square and you are trying to hind your mistakes -- it's so sad that it has come to the point where we have to use pressed paper (MDF) and try to pass it off as wood -- good luck to anyone ever wanting to renovate a house if it has been glued together. ca glue is for folks who are in a hurry and wood glue is for woodworkers who have time. Wood glue is always stronger than the the wood it is holding together (can't say for pressed paper Ive never used it to build anything
you're doing mdf a disservice. it is *not* pressed paper - the processes for making mdf and wood based paper are very different. mdf is incredibly useful mainly due to its dimensional stability, overall flexibility and convenience. it is also a very attractive material in its own right when used well. of course it has its pros and cons, as do all materials. as for bad workmanship - that applies regardless of the materials being used, it's not the fault of the material if something is poorly executed.
Appreciate your thoughts, though I think you are missing out on a perfectly good and inexpensive building product in mdf, not to mention its environmental advantages. But a basic assumption I disagree with in your post is that walls not being square is ‘your own mistake’. 1st- Often simply not the case because many (most) of us work on existing homes. 2nd- drywall finishing creates less or more than 90 degree corners. Watch a few of his videos on drywall finishing. The skill/art is to make it look flat/square while knowing it can’t be. 3rd- most pros don’t build removable for future problems as it’s too rare to justify just to save a few dollars for a replacement trim board, likely a minor cost in a repair. Anyway, once it’s filled, caulked, and painted in place, that bit of glue in the corners wouldn’t be the trickiest part of removal.
You are right on the money Vancouver Carpenter! Mother Earth first. The power is yours!
I'd really like to see good old superglue. Project Farm didn't do that on MDF.
Thanks for the video. I've never uses CA glue but have seen it in a lot of videos but never a comparison with it and wood glue. For most applications I would still use wood glue but CA glue definitely has its uses and I wouldn't mind trying it in certain situations.
How about using a little painters tape on the face of the material so you can really put the glue on heavy. Then you can just pull the tape off after.
Always use more ca glue on mdf to saturate deeper as it dries too quickly compared to the penetration time of wood glue, it's all about deep Anchorage.
Also I like the macgyver fix on your step.
Smile worthy, thanks.
i didn't even know canada had their own glue
🤣🤣🤣
As usually another great video 👍
But the thing is, all of these joints/uses are non-load bearing. You put them in place and you nail them in and it's never touched again. I don't know that ton of strength is necessary? The test was interesting of course, but practically speaking I don't see why CA isn't more than enough for baseboards and moldings. But I did enjoy the testing.
Thanks for making this point. I do a ton of renovation work, and all the trims I pull off on old houses are done with no glue at all. Not even on the mitres. Just big old hand nailed jolt heads and paint holding it together. I think that I will start using CA on some mitres, because it will allow perfect mitres every time. Nobody in my country is using CA glue for trim work, and I've never seen a carpenter using an 18 or 23 gauge nailer either. Over here trim is slapped on with 16 gauge brad nails, and you are lucky if they bother to glue the mitres at all. If the joins don't meet up the attitude is that the painters will fix it. The drywall and underlying carpentry work is often very uneven and it's impossible to get mitres to sit right relying on the walls, door jambs and window jambs. I'm seeing all these North American carpentry RUclipsrs using CA, and to me it looks like it would give me results that no carpenter in my country is getting. I don't care if the joint isn't strong, I glue my trims to the walls and jambs with PVA anyway. The CA only has to hold until the PVA sets and it's not going anywhere.
I finally bought some CA glue and was looking for the correct way to apply it and look my favorite Carpenter painter did a vid. Your environmental concerns are responsible. Totally off topic but most envionmentally concerned, Earth conscious people have this perception that humanity is one continuous time line and so they are really concerned with preserving the Earth. But research has revealed that Civilizations have existed for millions of years. There are Cities found underwater , and also prehistoric underground tunnels that go for miles. Society has gone from very advanced to very primitive and restarted over again a few times now. The Earth will continue but we will reset.
Project Farm has a lot of interesting tests on Woodglues, CA glues and other stuff :) well worth a watch if your're interested :D
every one of his videos is worth watching.
So how about combined? A few drops of CA and wood glue over most of the joint. No clamps, just set and forget.
Appreciate the video. Just did my first project using the glue. Now you tell me what glue is best.
Awesome video. I would def choose the CA glue for things like outside miters or returns on crown that could become problematic later on. 😁👌
The final "wood glue" experiment was ineffective because, although it dried, 4 hours doesn't allow the wood glue to climatize fully to the "cold" you described. You likely know that, but CA glue isn't meant to be structural. It works VERY well when you need to fit joints before actual installation. The material won't break bond if installers are smart enough to find studs while nailing. No wife jokes please 😝
We got to see his karate skills. Haha love the video. I got to try the ca glue. So far, it's awesome for small projects.
I couldn't break the ones I had with CA glue, so I was happy with the results. Haha
Great video and very interesting. I too use CA glues on some baseboards. Once it is in place I don't believe the joint is under any real stress so I will continue to use it on occasion. Really liked the demonstration though. Thanks
A couple of things; the real strength of CA is that it's almost instant when used with hardener, so in most cases there's no need to wait for it to set. Secondly, how strong does a joint need to be? Of course that depends on the application, but for most of my uses it's plenty strong enough for nearly anything.
I have tested multiple glue up joints with pine and fir. A good wood glue (I use tight bond) is always stronger than the wood. In my mind CA glue is fast, wood glue is strong.
Try ca glue and spread a little of baking soda over the glue and then joint both parts.
use both...tack with the ca ..wood in the middle etc
CA tends to cure hard. It will break if there is an impact. Carpenters glue has about the same strength but is tougher than the wood. Once cured the wood will break before the glue. Depends a whole lot on where you are putting it.
Use medium or thin ca glue for joints . Thick is for filling gaps . I find it does not work as well for shear strength
The glue...not surprised. What is surprising? The realization that you don’t have 5 million subscribers 🤔 What is up with that???
Awesome stuff 👍 Thanks a (5) million! 😂
Ca glue is an anaerobic it works with the absence of air it would be nice to see it clamped up with out accelerator, also no glue works well on end grain joints. Also what wood glue was you using on the first set of joints, most wood workers use Titebond glues the other looks like Elmer's wood glue.
OMG, that razor knife got really friendly really fast.
Well I figure since I'm getting older I might as well learn something so I followed you on this channel too, I rang the little bell thing too since you never ask
I really enjoyed your style on these type of videos
Since I am not a full time carpenter the quick set up ia nit necessary. I used to recone speakers and that was a different story but for commercial speakers that took a full time beating for concerts and especially all night Raves I would set systems up. What I noticed was the speakers repaired with the cyano glue would break down with heat and start smoking and catch the speaker on fire. Yikes! Now okay Nature Boy yeah I'm concerned about the environment as far as waste for instamce all thes aholea with there freaking overpriced Tap Water. But as far as the air goes that stuff disapates and as long as we have trees and plant life it gets regenerated. Other than that really like your videos because your a Hoot. 😆
Depends where on the spkr. Dust caps to cone will work fine, but the voice coil bobbin and attachment point to cone, epoxy, high temperature type best. Ditto where the spider attaches to cone/bobbin. forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=87941.0
Very good review
I guess I'm questioning the whole purpose of this test. I thought the whole reason of pregluing your trim was to close the joint and make it easier to hang, ca glue is the clear winner here. All houses move and over time you're going to have cracks and gaps appear, even solid wood warps and cracks. Trim will never be a structural member, it's just the frosting...
Agreed - I would like to see more about the workflow. Like doing a door casing with CA vs wood glue I imagine you would do it differently. Eliminating clamping outside baseboard corners.
Good call on the environmental question!
cool video..thanks
I love basing miters
Having a 120-year-old house, the problem I see is dismantling the frames of stuff without breaking apart the wood itself.
You can't preserve the integrity of the actual house by mish-mashing together old and new woods.
all your stuff is good!
I don't know how long the joints were in the outside, but wood glue does not cure properly when cold.
good stuff!!
I'm one of those "likes before watching" people, cause you're good people with always good content 💁♀️ just thought I'd throw that out there 💁♀️
Yeah I often wonder if RUclips tracks likes-before-watching. I always do that with my fav channels too, just so I don't forget after!
That is exactly my reasoning 😂 I generally have a rule for myself, I only follow people of I actually like them. So if I follow them, I'm 99.999% sure I'm going to like their content, no matter if I agree with certain things they say or if I do things the way they do them.
I have been using CA glue for 20 years and have never used it in carpentry of any kind.
Its most widely used and as far as I can remember in model building and RC vehicle building
A hobby glue is what it has always been.
I used CA glue in the early 70's to build balsa FF (Free Flight) model airplanes. The stuff worked fantastic for field repairs as well.
The house behind him looks like it had a fire.Note: never use CA glue near an open flame