Something I did forget to include in this video was the exposure comp. I always have it on at least +1/3 and sometimes even a full +1 for brighter more pastel type images. If you use the recipe please tag me and show me what you've managed to create! Thanks everyone.
When I use any type of recipe on my x100v it usually slows down my camera and takes a while to store images. Is there a way to fix this or is this just a draw back of shooting recipes?
Excellent video with a great explanation of the reasoning behind your IQ settings. I do much the same all though I do switch back and forth between Classic Chrome and Astia. My X100V is also usually set at ISO 640 and DR400.I set Highlights and Shadows to a slight negative value too. Your approach is the best bet for pushing the dynamic range towards how film rolls off the highlights. Exposing at +1/3 to +2/3 is also how I push the colors towards the pastel. Your street scenes are very nostalgic and nice!
I just got my first camera. After 2 weeks reading the manual and watching hundreds video on youtube, I found your videos the easiest to understand. Thank you for sharing.
I'm glad that helped! I was in two minds whether to include that stuff as it isn't anything to do with the recipe but it definitely effects how I shoot.
Yes, learnt this with my Fuji as well. Metering over the range average for me works out best. Was shooting on multiple thinking i was getting average coverage, but in not in my experience.
Excellent. You managed to explain a lot of the custom settings that are normally just numbers to me. I finally know what the DR setting is now, and why my ISO is 'high'! Thanks Mike.
Really interesting to see an Astia recipe when so many are based on Classic Chrome or Classic Negative. I actually prefer the grain you get from ISO640 to any of the grain effects.
I REALLY wish Fuji would let us change the colors of the shadows. Like if you could have that warm white balance but have the shadows gain a colder color, i think that would look so nice. Basically I wish Fuji would let us set a different white balance for shadows (for jpegs).
I shoot at CL LOW SPEED BURST 3 and that gets rid of the "Storing" pause when you have clarity up. Not sure if this has any other effect but give it a try Mike if you want to use clarity boost.
Quick feedback concerning your recipe: I just love it! Went for an early sunrise stroll at the harbour and docks of Hamburg with patches of fog and the images look amazing on my XE4! Thanks again for sharing 🙏🏻
You really get what you're doing! Many recipes attempting negative film go for highlights+2 and stuff like that and that never makes any sense. And even with slide film the average user was never trying to over expose it on purpose so 🤷♂️
Really enjoyed this video, Mike. Will definitely try this recipe, as your shots speak for themselves and I agree with your reasoning for your levels. Beautiful photographs.
Thanks for this video and of course your recipe! I will try it out asap. Too bad there is only C1-C7, since I would love to have some recipes for night photography, flat daylight, sunny daylight and some black and white photography...
Best way round it I found, get the Fuji X Weekly app, and favourite the simulations you like. Assuming you go out with your phone, you can rather easily swap them out, especially if you keep for example C1 for a warm tone one, C2 for night etc. Lots of the recipes have the same basics, and it means you can set one up in about a minute, which I do while stopped for a coffee or something. Probably takes about the same time as reloading a new roll of film! App costs something like £17 for the year, but I've found it worth it!
Love these. Stupid question from me, when creating a film simulation does the new simulation replace one in the menu or is it an added new simulation does? Thanks.
I really like the colors in your samples. As a complete Fuji-noobie, can you explain (or point to another video or manual). how/where you save these recipes so you can call them up when you want them, and put them away when youdon't??? That is, what's the process for creating and saving a recipe?
This is THE aesthetic I need. It encapsulates so much of Portra film. No distracting highlights or shadows, just a beautifully exposed scene. I currently shoot an XT20 though. Do you think the colour chrome effect has any bearing on the final tonality? Not an option on this body unfortunately.
@@MikeChudley Quick one for you. When you mention using cente weighted metering. How do you maintain the exposure once you have pointed the centre point into the shadows/highlights, then recomposed? Does it not need the use of AEL? Thanks mate.
Nice summary of impressive settings...However, I'm a bit confused. You mention setting the Kelvin to 6,200 for a warmer setting. When in fact 6,200 is actually a 'cool' setting and it appears you get the warmth from subtracting the blue in your white balance settings. Seems another recipe could include warmer kelvin setting of maybe 3,000 which would require less subtraction of blue in white balance.
Hey Mike! Just picked up an X100VI a few weeks ago, and have been loving your Astia film simulation! Just watched a video comparison from Benj Haisch where he brings up that the images are about 500-700 Kelvin warmer on the VI vs the V (all things being equal)!! That being said, I’m wondering if you have an “updated” film recipe for the VI? I’m guessing you would adjust the recipe *up* by about 600 Kelvin on the newer model? Curious to know your thoughts! TYIA!
Something's wrong with my X100V'S menu... I can't find colour chrome effect, color chrome fx blue, or even colour!!!! Nice simulation, a bit warm perhaps, but I will give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
@@MikeChudley - No, no, no.... notice the spelling! Colour and Color You speak and write English English, I speak and write American English. The X100V is written in American. Guess American humor (or is it humour) doesn't translate very well. Sorry.
Hey Mike, with exposing your images by pointing the camera at the highlights/shadows to choose exposure, I'm confused as would that not mess up your focus point? If I expose for the highlights (sky) but want the focus on the shadows (foreground) would the focus not be set to highlights??
I just noticed that you said in the video that the dynamic range of 400 flattens the image a bit which is correct and that to add back some more contrast you input negative values into the highlight and shadow tone curve. Actually that reduces contrast further. If you try adding positive values to both to get an S shaped curve, you will be adding more contrast. But aside from that small detail, I am definitely going to use your settings and take your advice on exposure for street. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you liked the video! Those curve adjustments do further flatten the image - which is on purpose. But of course switch up and change whatever you want. It’s all preference. Thanks again!
He IS saying that changing the shadows to -2 "lifts up the shadows" and it's "bringing back some detail and life in the shadows" - in no way did @MikeChudley say that changing the shadows to -2 would increase the contrast. ;-)
sadly, on older cameras...older meaning X-T3, you can not save WB shift to a recipe, which is really annoying. was hoping that there will be an update to this.
Thanks for the video Mike. I like the warm tones. Did you use this recipe in your video 3 months ago, photography giving you peace. You appear to go out with your camera when the weather is good which suits this recipe. Unfortunately I am restricted to when I go out( just a hobby for me) so it is sometimes dull or cloudy. have you used a recipe in these conditions. I have tried portra 400 which I like. I use an xt3 so I am restricted a little with the settings on some recipes. Rob
Mike, I'm in the process of trying out your Astia Soft recipe with my X100V. However, I would also like to explore a moody B+W recipe based on Acros. Do you have any suggestions? I've tried the FUJI X WEEKLY Acros recipe but it doesn't have the dramatic impact I'm looking for. P.S. I'm sure you will have checked this out, but there is a growing number of RUclips videos comparing and contrasting the Leica Q or Q2 with the Fujifilm X100V. Cheers, Richard McMahon.
Hey Mike, as you said you are locking the exposure to your needs, have you binded it to a custom button? Because otherwise you would also focus the object you want to lock the exposure on. Just curious 😊I like the idea of using the zoom-ring for white balance adjustments!! 😄
You can link spot metering to your autofocus point: "Turn the linking on in the AF/MF SETTING > INTERLINK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA menu. And note this only works when shooting in Single Point AF mode and when using spot photometry."
I had a fujifilm x-t1 and x-t2. I bought them because of the retro look, but I didn't care for the images, so I gave them away. The blacks and shadows came out too dark for me no matter what I did. But the blacks and shadows in your examples look fantastic. Nevertheless, I am toying with trying again with Fuji.
It’s crazy how in 10 years, Fuji went from a laughed at company because « only FF matters », to such a hyped brand that I can’t buy a X100 at a decent price anymore.
Hey @mikechudley - great video. I've always wanted to play with the in camer settings but I opted for editing in post production. What's the advantage to adjusting these settings in the camera vs. editing in lightroom with pre-sets etc.? For what it's worth - I think the in-camera settings is a cooler way to shoot!
great video! I have a question if you don't mind. I'm new to this "recipes" thing and I've tried to save a pair of them in my Fuji xt2 but when I try to go back and pick one of the simulations that the camera has already (say Astia) all the parameters remain the way I changed them for the ones I saved (I don't know if I'm making myself clear). So then I have to change them all to 0 one by one everytime I want to go back to the original ones. Is there anything I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance and hope you can help me
I just came across your comment and the exact same thing happened to me 😩 I just realised I was pressing cancel for the changes and not saving them. I’m assuming you’re doing the same thing as well? The greyed out option is the one you’re actually pressing ok to.
I wonder specifically by "film simulation" what are you talking about. To "simulate film," what are we looking to improve or change? What is it that film can do that the normal jpegs can't?
As someone who grew up shooting film, thinking film has to have grain and not be vibrant, you're definitely not aware of just how many films there were. Most films sought to be very clean and vibrant in some way.
Something I did forget to include in this video was the exposure comp. I always have it on at least +1/3 and sometimes even a full +1 for brighter more pastel type images. If you use the recipe please tag me and show me what you've managed to create! Thanks everyone.
When I use any type of recipe on my x100v it usually slows down my camera and takes a while to store images. Is there a way to fix this or is this just a draw back of shooting recipes?
@@_ErickRangel its it because of the clarity adjustment?
@@MikeChudley I believe so. Which kind of sucks because for any recipe I use the clarity has to be at 0. Is this something you’ve encountered?
Excellent video with a great explanation of the reasoning behind your IQ settings. I do much the same all though I do switch back and forth between Classic Chrome and Astia. My X100V is also usually set at ISO 640 and DR400.I set Highlights and Shadows to a slight negative value too. Your approach is the best bet for pushing the dynamic range towards how film rolls off the highlights. Exposing at +1/3 to +2/3 is also how I push the colors towards the pastel. Your street scenes are very nostalgic and nice!
Interesting. I pretty much always use -1/3 or -2/3 on my Fujis, to protect the highlights.
Maybe your curve and DR setting make that unecessary.
I just got my first camera. After 2 weeks reading the manual and watching hundreds video on youtube, I found your videos the easiest to understand. Thank you for sharing.
First month, just shoot it in full auto -- focus on framing and composition before exposure (which can generally be corrected in a raw)
I shot a ton of Kodak supermarket cheap film in the late 90s and early 00s and this reminds me of thay. Very golden and colorful!
Probably one of the most important tips in this video is at 7:40 when he talks about metering modes for exposure. Great vid Mike!
I'm glad that helped! I was in two minds whether to include that stuff as it isn't anything to do with the recipe but it definitely effects how I shoot.
Agreed!
Yes, learnt this with my Fuji as well. Metering over the range average for me works out best. Was shooting on multiple thinking i was getting average coverage, but in not in my experience.
Excellent. You managed to explain a lot of the custom settings that are normally just numbers to me. I finally know what the DR setting is now, and why my ISO is 'high'! Thanks Mike.
Really interesting to see an Astia recipe when so many are based on Classic Chrome or Classic Negative.
I actually prefer the grain you get from ISO640 to any of the grain effects.
A very nice recipe for those Hopper moments, or that is what your photos made me evoke with the intense sunlight and that feeling of loneliness.
What a compliment!
I REALLY wish Fuji would let us change the colors of the shadows. Like if you could have that warm white balance but have the shadows gain a colder color, i think that would look so nice. Basically I wish Fuji would let us set a different white balance for shadows (for jpegs).
I would like the option to put in some vingnetting too
Great insight, Mike. Love the shot at 4:46!
Cheers dude! Catch up again soon 👌🏻
I shoot at CL LOW SPEED BURST 3 and that gets rid of the "Storing" pause when you have clarity up. Not sure if this has any other effect but give it a try Mike if you want to use clarity boost.
you can use clarity without the cooldown if you shoot in any burst mode!
Well. I simply did not know that haha, thanks
Very nice video, thanks! Saved it for when I hopefully can buy an X100V before the year is over haha
Today I traded all my Canon gear for this camera. I can’t wait fir it to arrive. This was a great video, I shall be watching all your Fujifilm videos.
Awesome! Thank you!
Quick feedback concerning your recipe: I just love it! Went for an early sunrise stroll at the harbour and docks of Hamburg with patches of fog and the images look amazing on my XE4! Thanks again for sharing 🙏🏻
Love to hear this! Thanks for the comment - have fun 👌🏻🙌🏻
Just put this recipe in my XS10. Loving the results. Just my style. Excellent work! Keep it up 😎
Danke!
Thank you for the efforts sir.
Thank you so much 👌🏻 I’m pleased you enjoyed the video.
You really get what you're doing! Many recipes attempting negative film go for highlights+2 and stuff like that and that never makes any sense. And even with slide film the average user was never trying to over expose it on purpose so 🤷♂️
I’m yet to try a recipe! Haven’t worked my way around the camera enough yet but I will be! Great video and thanks for sharing
You should definitely give it a go! There’s many great ones on Fuji x weekly 👌🏻
Really enjoyed this video, Mike. Will definitely try this recipe, as your shots speak for themselves and I agree with your reasoning for your levels. Beautiful photographs.
You're young but your shots are amazing and with character,I love them.
Hey there Mike this is an awesome video. Thanks for sharing your setup. It makes perfect sense to me.
Great shots and lovely recipe. I am still on Trans I and II. A little envious of the capabilities of the newer models when it comes to simulation
Yeah this looks AMAZING
Cant wait to try this out.
Very knowledgeable, thanks a bunch
Thanks!
Awesome dude, this is great, thank you for sharing!
Awesome 😎 I just buy xt200....& For ur knowledge I learn many things , what was I confused about Fujifilm weekly app 😜.
Wow😍your pictures looks amazing🤩 Thank you for recipe and nice video 💫
Cheers for this matey. Just subbed
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
One question. @0:09 were you trying to focus with the focus ring as if you're holding an old manual lens?
Thanks for this video and of course your recipe! I will try it out asap. Too bad there is only C1-C7, since I would love to have some recipes for night photography, flat daylight, sunny daylight and some black and white photography...
Best way round it I found, get the Fuji X Weekly app, and favourite the simulations you like. Assuming you go out with your phone, you can rather easily swap them out, especially if you keep for example C1 for a warm tone one, C2 for night etc. Lots of the recipes have the same basics, and it means you can set one up in about a minute, which I do while stopped for a coffee or something. Probably takes about the same time as reloading a new roll of film!
App costs something like £17 for the year, but I've found it worth it!
@@AngusTakesPhotos the app is for free if you can live without the pre-releases. And yes I have been using it for months
Great recipe, will try it later. Very warm WB but it fits well
Hope you like it! Definitely is very warm so interested to see how others find it
Beautiful! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Hi, any suggestions for a X100T? Great explanations on why different values do!
3:44 couldn't help but notice the one and only Bobby!!
And I noticed your profile picture 👌🏻
@@MikeChudleyawesome man!
Grat video!!!
Are those settings possible aloso on x100 first model camera. Because it have astia simulation .
Thanks
Love these. Stupid question from me, when creating a film simulation does the new simulation replace one in the menu or is it an added new simulation does? Thanks.
I really like the colors in your samples. As a complete Fuji-noobie, can you explain (or point to another video or manual). how/where you save these recipes so you can call them up when you want them, and put them away when youdon't???
That is, what's the process for creating and saving a recipe?
I can suggest you the following training video which also helped me a lot: ruclips.net/video/uOVQ1xW3fw4/видео.html
Great video.. Thanks for sharing your film simulation... Which simulation would you recommend for bnw... Thanks
This is THE aesthetic I need. It encapsulates so much of Portra film. No distracting highlights or shadows, just a beautifully exposed scene.
I currently shoot an XT20 though. Do you think the colour chrome effect has any bearing on the final tonality? Not an option on this body unfortunately.
Pleased you liked this! I’ll look out for the images you take with it - and I don’t think it matters too much. Go for it 👊🏻
@@MikeChudley Quick one for you. When you mention using cente weighted metering. How do you maintain the exposure once you have pointed the centre point into the shadows/highlights, then recomposed?
Does it not need the use of AEL?
Thanks mate.
Nice summary of impressive settings...However, I'm a bit confused. You mention setting the Kelvin to 6,200 for a warmer setting. When in fact 6,200 is actually a 'cool' setting and it appears you get the warmth from subtracting the blue in your white balance settings. Seems another recipe could include warmer kelvin setting of maybe 3,000 which would require less subtraction of blue in white balance.
Excellent vid
Hey Mike! Just picked up an X100VI a few weeks ago, and have been loving your Astia film simulation! Just watched a video comparison from Benj Haisch where he brings up that the images are about 500-700 Kelvin warmer on the VI vs the V (all things being equal)!! That being said, I’m wondering if you have an “updated” film recipe for the VI? I’m guessing you would adjust the recipe *up* by about 600 Kelvin on the newer model? Curious to know your thoughts! TYIA!
Hey, thanks for the comment - my most recent video might be what you're looking for :)
makes me want to get a Fuji camera
Something's wrong with my X100V'S menu... I can't find colour chrome effect, color chrome fx blue, or even colour!!!!
Nice simulation, a bit warm perhaps, but I will give it a try. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching and that seems very strange - I don’t know what to say other than look for an update?😂 have fun with the recipe 👌🏻
@@MikeChudley - No, no, no.... notice the spelling! Colour and Color You speak and write English English, I speak and write American English. The X100V is written in American. Guess American humor (or is it humour) doesn't translate very well. Sorry.
Hey Mike, with exposing your images by pointing the camera at the highlights/shadows to choose exposure, I'm confused as would that not mess up your focus point? If I expose for the highlights (sky) but want the focus on the shadows (foreground) would the focus not be set to highlights??
I just noticed that you said in the video that the dynamic range of 400 flattens the image a bit which is correct and that to add back some more contrast you input negative values into the highlight and shadow tone curve. Actually that reduces contrast further. If you try adding positive values to both to get an S shaped curve, you will be adding more contrast. But aside from that small detail, I am definitely going to use your settings and take your advice on exposure for street. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks for watching and I’m glad you liked the video! Those curve adjustments do further flatten the image - which is on purpose. But of course switch up and change whatever you want. It’s all preference. Thanks again!
He IS saying that changing the shadows to -2 "lifts up the shadows" and it's "bringing back some detail and life in the shadows" - in no way did @MikeChudley say that changing the shadows to -2 would increase the contrast. ;-)
Around where I live, there's a lot of grey skies atm, have you got any film simulation recommendations that might tailor to this?
not a fuji shooter myself but still a great vid man! also loving the B roll in the intro on this one 👌
Appreciate it Jimmy!
Have you tried the TCL for the x100v? Would love to know your thoughts about it
Nope but I really want to try it!
sadly, on older cameras...older meaning X-T3, you can not save WB shift to a recipe, which is really annoying. was hoping that there will be an update to this.
I always save the WB shift in the name. So this one would be "Perfect R2B-4". Not ideal, but at least it keeps it easily accessible, I guess.
With the eS shirt on!
You know
Thanks for the video Mike. I like the warm tones. Did you use this recipe in your video 3 months ago, photography giving you peace. You appear to go out with your camera when the weather is good which suits this recipe. Unfortunately I am restricted to when I go out( just a hobby for me) so it is sometimes dull or cloudy. have you used a recipe in these conditions. I have tried portra 400 which I like. I use an xt3 so I am restricted a little with the settings on some recipes. Rob
Do you never change your focus point and always leave it at the center?
Mike, I'm in the process of trying out your Astia Soft recipe with my X100V. However, I would also like to explore a moody B+W recipe based on Acros. Do you have any suggestions? I've tried the FUJI X WEEKLY Acros recipe but it doesn't have the dramatic impact I'm looking for. P.S. I'm sure you will have checked this out, but there is a growing number of RUclips videos comparing and contrasting the Leica Q or Q2 with the Fujifilm X100V. Cheers, Richard McMahon.
Hi mate, where did you shoot the beach pictures in the UK?
Hey Mike, as you said you are locking the exposure to your needs, have you binded it to a custom button? Because otherwise you would also focus the object you want to lock the exposure on. Just curious 😊I like the idea of using the zoom-ring for white balance adjustments!! 😄
I want to know this too!
@@nizorox Same!
holding the AEL button on the back of ur camera locks the exposure
You can link spot metering to your autofocus point: "Turn the linking on in the AF/MF SETTING > INTERLINK SPOT AE & FOCUS AREA menu. And note this only works when shooting in Single Point AF mode and when using spot photometry."
I had a fujifilm x-t1 and x-t2. I bought them because of the retro look, but I didn't care for the images, so I gave them away. The blacks and shadows came out too dark for me no matter what I did. But the blacks and shadows in your examples look fantastic. Nevertheless, I am toying with trying again with Fuji.
seems like you have more money than patience lol
Does this recipe also good for night shot? Do we have to change the ISO during the night? thank you! (I am a beginner)
setting i want to see
Can I do this with my XF10?
Really nice simulation! What is the name of your custom recipe ?
Whatever you want to call it haha
@@MikeChudley Astia Chudley 😁
haha love it.@@jijic.7204
Hi Mike! I was trying to reply to a comment on my comment and it keeps on disappearing... any ideas what's happening with YT? Thanks
what is ur film camera?
It’s crazy how in 10 years, Fuji went from a laughed at company because « only FF matters », to such a hyped brand that I can’t buy a X100 at a decent price anymore.
How can we make the colors in the video without a fuji machine?
In post maybe. Try and replicate the look in Lightroom for example.
@@MikeChudley
How can colors in 0.22 seconds be made in Premier Pro? for video , not photo.
@@ilkertt ahh this was shot in clog3 on my canon r6 then I graded it in premier pro.
@@MikeChudley is there any lut ?
Can you share ? thank you :)
Bravo
nice
Anyone who knows/has or can make a Leica like recipe? I also prefer tacc sharp images. Much appreciated!
Which Leica?
Awesome video mate! Do you do any post-editing on these or are they good to go straight out of the camera? Loving the channel!
I spy Leigh on Sea!!
Hey @mikechudley - great video. I've always wanted to play with the in camer settings but I opted for editing in post production. What's the advantage to adjusting these settings in the camera vs. editing in lightroom with pre-sets etc.?
For what it's worth - I think the in-camera settings is a cooler way to shoot!
How about the lens? What the lens use ?
The lens on the X100 is part of the camera, and not changeable. It's a 23mm f2.
This recipe Is Better for my 18 or 33 Lens for street?
i tried this sim on my 100v and the pics look reaaaally green. has anybody tried it?
Hi. *_C/C_* ?
what did you name this recipe?
I didn't, but now I wish I did 😂
It’s not to late yet@@MikeChudley 👍🏼
great video! I have a question if you don't mind. I'm new to this "recipes" thing and I've tried to save a pair of them in my Fuji xt2 but when I try to go back and pick one of the simulations that the camera has already (say Astia) all the parameters remain the way I changed them for the ones I saved (I don't know if I'm making myself clear). So then I have to change them all to 0 one by one everytime I want to go back to the original ones. Is there anything I'm doing wrong? Thanks in advance and hope you can help me
I just came across your comment and the exact same thing happened to me 😩 I just realised I was pressing cancel for the changes and not saving them. I’m assuming you’re doing the same thing as well? The greyed out option is the one you’re actually pressing ok to.
I wonder specifically by "film simulation" what are you talking about. To "simulate film," what are we looking to improve or change? What is it that film can do that the normal jpegs can't?
I may or may not just witnessed a ghostly figure pass by behind you on the other side of the window.
Is it just me?
6:31
Neighbours, behind that window is a side alley for the houses next to me.
Raw Photo Processor
Welcome to the new era. Now you're paying for the camera software. Just like smartphones.
none of the photos look like film at all, everything is so clean, vibrant, and absolutely grainless
Not all film is grainy and grungy
A) you have a dated perception of film
B)the colors do look like film but of course it will never be totally the same
Yes. Looks like he's pushed the warmth and thats it
Ha ha totally true
As someone who grew up shooting film, thinking film has to have grain and not be vibrant, you're definitely not aware of just how many films there were. Most films sought to be very clean and vibrant in some way.
film is not about DR ( color one is about 8-10 stops, and bw between 12-15). ur video contains so much unreliable information(