Tenacity Herbicide Is A Scam [ TRIGGER WARNING ] pre emergent weed control lawn care
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2020
- Tenacity herbicide is touted as being the best herbicide on the market. It is known to act as a pre emergent weed control as well as a post emergent weed control for hard to control weeds, like creeping charlie. There are dozens of HOURS of how to use and where to use and why to use videos out there - but seldom is it referenced and explained to maximize the result of the product. In lieu of genuine, valuable, actionable information, we see more bro science and poor management technique. This video will give more insight into the appropriate lawn care use parameters to maximize the success of the famous HPPD Inhibitor - Tenacity.
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Two applications 14 days apart -> 6oz Tenacity + 25oz Simazine + 21oz Pennant Magnum (Pennant only mixed in the second application) + .5% v/v NIS absolutely obliterates goosegrass, crabgrass, dallisgrass and sedges post-emergent in bermudagrass. Syngenta has a section 24c label for Tenacity in the state of Florida for bermudagrass post-emergent applications on golf courses (except greens.) I did a test of this tankmix on my personal lawn this summer and it is the ticket. Syngenta just needs to relabel Tenacity for post-emergent applications to residential bermudagrass lawns in all southern states. This tankmix worked way better than the old standard of 2 shots of MSMA + MSM or MSMA + Sencor.
How many gallons of water and square ft of application. Also I’m assuming the total rates were split and guessing two apps for 3000 sq ft. Thank you.
Allowed in Hawaii. Done at applicator's own risk. Pertinent section of the label states "do not apply to Bermuda....... unless injury or removal is acceptable" Testing here has indicated Bermuda and Seashore Paspalum will tolerate application programs that will remove Goosegrass.
@@alboogie3578 I wish he replied to your question I was wondering the same.
Following the tenacity label I can assume your mix is to be applied in about 72000 square feet of grass?
Tennessee university Lol
I can’t believe I just watched a 25 minute video on an herbicide (I’m just an accountant who is seeding his lawn in the fall) - but great info and a real eye opener! I’ll make sure to hit my lawn with the sequential apps now!
🤣😂
Your not JUST an accountant, you are a home owner that does not want your home looking like a house from the hood. You care for your home to look like you do when you put on that suit. I'm just a freight broker and today I got sick of my "hood"/ NEVER taken care of looking front lawn.
Love this series of vids your doing. As I am always trying to learn more as I grow the fert and squirt side of the business.
Glad to have seen this video. I have been battling Nimblewill for several years. People swear by Tenacity but it doesn't kill the weed. Tenactiy will kill what you spray but has no effect on the roots (stolons, ryhzomes whatever you want to call it). I brought this up many times but some youtubers say otherwise.
You realize to many of these RUclipsrs are just diy homeowners that just repeat what they have seen by other RUclipsrs. It’s a chain of bad information.
Thought I was going to hate it, but I loved it. It never dawned on me to use Tenacity as a stand alone product and fortunately for me, it wasn't sold to me that way. Might be why I've gotten good results and very satisfied clients? Another great video!!
Tenacity worked for me with multiple weed types in my yard. Crab grass, clover, tall fiscal, sticker weeds. It killed them all in one heavy uniform application.
I had the same experience, it’s all I’ve used and my lawn looks awesome. Yeah some weeds come back but weeds always come back doesn’t matter what you use.
Same here might b soil type
Appreciate the thought provoking series. I need to listen to your videos several times to absorb it all like tenacity needs to be applied LOL. I was wondering can I use AMS in the tank with tenacity?
People don't read labels and follow instructions; that's the problem. I followed the instructions for Tenacity when I applied it to my Bermuda Lawn in South Florida. I only did a spot treatment knowing that my Bermuda was going to suffer with this application, but the sacrifice was worth it. After a sequential program/treatment - I freed my yard from 95% of all weeds. The remaining 5% includes a very delicate area where I don't use chemicals at all.
You are free to have your opinions about everything. However, the use the word 'scam' to describe this product is really a dirty artifact to get people to watch your video. When you use words so loosely you lose credibility.
Ortho weedclear works amazing
I'm not triggered. I mean this is common sense. I think Matt's next video should be "Stop selling everything as a cure all!" Without saying it directly in the video, in the different DIY FB groups, people sell Tenacity as the end all be all, and just like everything else in lawn care, it's a tool in the bag. It's definitely not a cure all, nothing really is. Great explanation Matt!
Please don't get me wrong, the science is over my head, but the explanation was spot on!
@@DaddingAllDay I've been watching Matt and others for a while now and I'm excited and sad to say I was able to follow about 95% of what he said and understand it. Does that make my lawn a hobby or obsession? :0)
@@Troy-Echo Both! Hahaha!
I just wanted to kill weeds. I didn't expect the lecture, but I watched more than I thought. Basically follow through to achieve a percentage of effectiveness, but don't expect too much.
I thought this was an excellent video that opened my eyes to some great information. This info is not always available to general public and I was glad I clicked on the Trigger warning. I now have a different outlook on how I would treat my lawn especially during seeding season. The idea that you can have a better outcome using multiple herbicides at time of seeding makes more sense to me. I have seen the video's that tell you to apply tenacity when you are seeding but that is the end of that conversation. They sometimes tell you that a second application might be required to complete the task. This approach from within this current video to me is a sensible approach and I have to say thank you to The Grass Factor for the eye opener and lesson. I will definitely be checking back in on this whiteboard series from now on. Thanks Grass Factor!!
I used Tenacity on POA in Aug.1st then on the 15th then I put it down in Feb.1st ,Then April 1st before 55 degrees and I did not see POA that spring. I just kept spot treating and so far I do not see it in the lawn. My lawn is totally weed free. I been doing this for 3 years to control it.I have used other products too.
The intro of you being chased is so funny. It was put together perfectly! Awesome. 😎👊
Thanks, I've learned some of this from my own trial and error
I’m excited to watch this one. I cant use it (Bermuda lawn) but i hear about it all the time
I was just about to hit the purchase button I had this waiting this summer for purchase on my Amazon account. But wanted to double-check if it works on my Bermuda lawn. Glad I saw this.
I had great results using it last fall. 1st app I put down at time of seeding, 2nd app 1 month later and because of the unusual warm temps last winter I put another app in Feb since weeds were visible. Some said i should not of done that and i had zero weeds coming into spring.
I think your timing here was absolutely spot on. Excellent example of reacting to your environment 💯💯
@@TheGrassFactor Thank you Matt. It just felt right at the time.
Thank you for confirming what I’ve instinctively observed in my lawn after using Tenacity before and during my overseeding. I had to do multiple applications to kill weeds before seeding and had my lawn look like #%*^. A store bought weed killer can kill broadleaf weeds overnight. I put some Tenacity on the rest of my lawn as a preemergent and saw fewer weeds come up and the ones that did were white. So that’s how I’m going to use up the rest of my Tenacity bottle.
Nice video, everybody in the lawn hobby seems to hop onto just about any idea without much critical thought. Suddenly "throw 'er down" applies to everything, including chemicals that are you *don't* want to be throwing down on a whim. And tenacity is the new hotness somehow, even for basic broadleaf weeds. It's a useful tool, but it's not useful for everything.
Just wanted to say awesome video... I one question about my upcoming yard renovation, wanted to make sure that I understood that you said Quinclorac, Mesotrione, Carfentrazone-ethyl can all be used together at the time of seeding seeding?
Thank you good sir! I must have had my notifications set wrong because I didn't see this come out, but I have a 10,000 sq. ft. back yard and put down about 1,000 sq. ft. of annual ryegrass and some Midnight Kentucky Bluegrass as a test patch as I've not used KBG before and wasn't sure about using a dwarf species or how it would hold up. I added the rye because I suddenly remembered the dogs coming up and down the steps were creating a bare spot where the weeds were thin (will fix that next year), and when I got the seed to put down it was getting closer to the first frost than I wanted and I wanted short term quick establishment. The KBG is doing well, but this just stopped me from buying Tenacity. I can get the results I want using other herbicides, and the absolute last thing I want to do is risk creating herbicide resistant weeds - we need to be responsible with this stuff or the EPA is going to take herbicides away from lawn care (I think you taught me that too). Great video as always.
Wow, I just got educated. Thank you for all the literature review.
Basically, the main concern is herbicide resistance. So we need to make sure the weeds are all dead, either by multiple applications or by using a cocktail mix of herbicide in one application.
Otherwise, injured weed plants will come back stronger.
For us people with cool season grass tenacity is a game changer when it comes to weedy grasses and especially renovations and overseeds. In the fall Poa Annua can be squashed until you can apply a proper preemergent.
I live in Michigan ,I was getting to pull the trigger on this ,but saw this video,all the reviews I saw on this up here were good,now I'm just confused
Works for me 🤷♂️
Loved the information presented here as I've seen little effectiveness out if tenacity thinking I applied it incorrectly.
I think "scam" and "triggered" are not the right terms you are looking for. Its more an "overhyped"
Agreed
This. It’s a great herbicide. In fact I found it because I had a lawn that had a ton of creeping bentgrass and everyone told me I would have to kill the lawn and start over but Tenacity killed it as promised and I had a great lawn.
I’ve been switching it between Trimec depending on the time of year with great success
@@holmessph7 yes because its about the only thing to kill bent grass.
Its still overhyped because people talked it up as a way to kill kind of weed even though there are better and cheaper options out there for most weeds.
Exactly..... Tenacity is not a scam. Maybe overhyped. People should read the manual.
Awesome info!! Love rolling multiple herbicides during 1 application.
Speaking of resistance, you got me thinking about all those people in the videos talking about always going with the low rate, 🤔
Thanks Matt! The information you shared is valuable. However, it would have been great to hear this about a month ago 😑. Will still make adjustments. Thanks again!
Do you mind posting in the description what those three products you recommend are for seeding? It think it was tenacity, quinclorac, and something else. Thanks. Just did a seeding job with tenacity at seeding, had a huge rainstorm and ended up raking out the entire yard as a result. Will that pre emergent barrier still be useful or should I reapply?
This was super informative. I really appreciate what you are doing here. I believe that after people's feelings settle down everyone will start understanding your intentions better. As a homeowner that likes to use products that the professional use and are more effective, its really important that we understand the what, when, and how of each one of this if we want to keep having access to them.
Love the intro 😊. Question, applied tenacity 3-4 weeks ago. Weeds turned yellowish was planning to use a detacher to take out the weed and the dead grass, then use aerotor to revive the soil. Patch the soil and over-seed. Am i in the right track?! Should i use another application of tenacity?
I just watched the video and from what I understood, you should do follow up applications. This would help suppress weeds and weed seeds that are now exposed to sunlight after aerating pulled seeds up to the surface, and suppress or kill weeds and give your new seeds less competition for nutrients and water.
Yeah, I learned my lesson with it really quick. I will say however and maybe I'm just lucky but it absolutely smokes the crabgrass in my yard in a single application.
You're not lucky, you just used the right stuff. Crabgrass is what I bought Tenacity for, nothing else. My back lawn is snow white right now, with patches of brown. Getting ready to dethatch and overseed. So yes, Tenacity ABSOLUTELY works for crabgrass.
@@2AProud I'm a budding grass/lawn nerd and not a pro by any means, but personally, I'd toss in some Quinclorac when going after crabgrass for another MOA and better control of crabgrass, and some 2, 4D for additional broadleaf weed control since I'm going to be spraying anyway. Hit the crabgrass while it is immature and it is so much easier to take out.
@@Troy-Echo I'm not a pro either, I just watch a lot of YT videos to learn. Quinclorac might be good to tank mix with the Tenacity. I spot sprayed with 2, 4 D before I did the Tenacity to kill broadleafs like dandelions, etc. I also sprayed T-Zone (triclopyr) in my front lawn to kill the wild violets. I mowed super low, dethatched, then overseeded the entire lawn with Lesco Team Mates Plus. After that I applied starter fertilizer with iron. The very next day, it came a soft, gentle rain :-). I have new grass about two inches right now! Yay!
@@2AProud Glad your new turf is coming in nicely! Quinclorac and 2, 4D are both seed safe, at least with Zoysia which is what I have in my front lawn. I've not had to use Triclopyr yet as I've had good results with those two, and my seed happened to have some nutsedge in it, which most people get upset about but I didn't. It is hard enough to keep a single lawn weed free, so how it is realistic to expect a seed farm to keep 15,000 acres 100% weed free with birds eating seed and pooping randomly in fields? I was walking through Lowe's and saw some Spectracide and I don't like buying premixed stuff but while looking at the label I saw it had Sulfentrazone in the mix which is a great herbicide for nutsedge, and it was about $10, so I bought it. There was enough to treat about 7,000 sq. ft. maybe in the bottle, and it took out my nutsedge and some other weeds I was going to have to try and sort through very well. It had 2, 4D, Quinclorac, Dicamba and Sulfentrazone. I put down some Prodiamine this year and so far I see almost no weeds. I will repeat something I learned on this channel though because it is a great piece of information if you've not seen it - when treating weeds, putting down 2-3 different herbicides with multiple modes of action will exponentially increase the kill rate of the weed, which also means you decrease the risk of under-treating and creating herbicide resistant weeds. Do My Own dot com is a great site for finding herbicides and they have the full label PDF on each product. I pay a little more for herbicides there, but they have all the information I need, and if I get stuck, I can talk to one of their reps for advice, and that is worth a little higher price to me. My front lawn is almost exactly where I want it, but next season I start on my back lawn. I live in the transition zone so I'm not sure if I want to put down more Zoysia in the back lawn so I have the durability, or maybe some kind of KBG. I put down some KBG-Midnight and annual Rye for a test and to give some soil stability at the bottom of the steps so the dogs don't make it a muddy mess this year. The KBG-Midnight is a dwarf and fine bladed grass and it has a gorgeous color, but it doesn't withstand dog urine worth a darn so it is out. It's a shame...as fine as those blades of grass are it would be so easy to mulch and it was break down quickly due to small size. My daughter absolutely loves the Zoysia. I've seen her making grass angels (snow angels, but in the Zoysia) several times and she loves hot it is so soft to walk and play on barefoot. That counts for a lot because although I have a decent job and buy her shoes, she refused to wear them LOL. It is the end of November near Richmond, VA and yesterday I caught her running around outside barefoot again.
Tenacity has been effective in spot treating nimblewill, in my VA fescue lawn. Yes the grass around it may turn white, but it's temporary. Two sometimes three applications may be required. The other options are digging it out or Roundup
Quick question. Do you think it is safe to mix quinncolrac with msm to get a more broader coverage? Thx. Love the knowledge you share!
I agree 100 because it slows the photosynthesis and it might not kill. 🤷🏻♂️
Applied the Scotts starter fert with mesotrione during seeding (cool season lawn) at the beginning of the month. Seemed to bleach out most the stuff that came up that was not seeded. How long before a second app can be applied to maximize efficiency.
So educate me on this one Matt...if I want to overseed the lawn and use Meso then to prohibit weeds from popping up at growth, but I also want to use pre emergent later on to stop all the poa annua from coming up, based off what you just said...using Tenacity or Meso for the 30 day pre emergent properties, then using something like Prodiamine isn't ideal. If I'm only wanting the pre emergent part of Tenacity, bc it can be applied at seeding, is it smarter to go 3 apps with it for pre emergent? I ask bc Prodiamine wants 30 days after germ and 2 mows before applying. Just trying to calculate the best approach on this in your eyes. Great video man! Learning is always eye opening and fun!
I use Prodiamine as a pre-emergent and use Fusilade II and Image as a post emergent for my zoysia grass to get rid of Bermuda and Crabgrass. Great Results.
Excellent selection!
@@TheGrassFactor Can you recommend something for tall fescue. Yard full of weeds, you name it, it's in there. Doing a renovation...
Matt! You have “cornered the market” on in-depth explanations of plant biology and herbicide pharmacology!!
So I've been instructed to use tenacity at seed time, on my total renovation. So you recommend using it again at germination, and again after how many weeks? I have tenacity already in my garage. Or should I get something elce to mix with it?
If you pause on those studies, you'll see where it had highest efficacy.
I used Tenacity along with a surfactant and a turf blue marker liquid on my St. Augustine lawn here in Clearwater Florida. Tenacity totally ruined my lawn. It is NOT TO BE USED on St. Augustine. I have huge white patches all over my lawn and its been over 5 weeks. Big mistake. I am now subscribed to Scott's lawn repair to try and see if I can get it back to green. And by the way, the dollar weed is still there.
You’ve got to read the instructions.
Most people mixes Tenacity with cold water. Try mixing it with hot water let it cool down a little then put down when it is still warm and see what happens?
When you show studies can you please show the title of the paper to make them easier to search?
I think the Poa a, might be up for debate. Several sports team grounds keepers CSFM, report knocking out Poa post emergently with Tenacity. Toyota Park in Illinois is one example. Interested in people's thoughts.
Hi Matt I live in Florida and I have saint Augustine grass and I'm having a problem with crabgrass, dollar weed and clover now I will ask you, what is the best of the best to kill those kind of weeds ? please I thought that Tanacity was a good option. Thanks Matt
St. Augustine is not on the label for Tenacity for residential use.
Calling Tenacity a “scam,” is itself a bit of a scam on your part. It’s clickbait, because, as far as I know, every other video that I seen out there praises Tenacity for its effectiveness. I’m not a professional at all, but am in the process of educating myself, as I’ve taken over my own lawn care to save money after retirement. I’m using a variety of professional products such as, MSM Turf, Sulfentrazone, Atrazine and Tenacity to control weeds in my Northwest Florida, and I’ve made some mistakes in my centipede lawn, but that’s ok. I’m learning, and I think most people, who are trying to do their own lawn care, can read the label and understand that there can be resistance with most products if used repeatedly, but that doesn’t make any one product a scam anymore than any other. While I appreciate your knowledge, I think it would be better to just give straight forward instructions for how to use these products along with the pros and cons if you feel that’s necessary. Most people like me are eager to find knowledgeable instructions. Click bait isn’t needed and in fact detracts from your appeal.
Excellent tutorial....Tenacity works for me because I have the basic weeds I live in Philly lol.. I only have crabgrass, yellow sedge and dandelion
Thank you so much for the educational video!
Matt thanks for such a great video! Should we use a surfacant if applied when seeding? I read that it’s better to not use surfacant at seeding to get the tenacity into the soil.
No. You want it seeping into the ground.
Yea but dont go crazy and spray heavy. Really will cost you.
Great Information Matt! I think you hit this one dead on. Had to get rid of some bent-grass in my KBG/RYE. Did 3x apps, 1 @ 4 weeks pre seeding, one at seeding and 1 @ 3 weeks post germination. It seemed to do a great job for about 2 years controlling the bent-grass, but it slowly is creeping back. This was with me even trying to rake out as much of the so called Dead roots/rhizomes. But it is back again of course in just 2 short years! I guess I should have been following up yearly on that area to continue control. Hat's of to the Wife for the editing, love the intro! Peace and God's Love! Chad Upstate NY
If last year I used one application and did no follow up should I abandon tenacity in the next year? Or could I used tenacity again with appropriate multiple applications. In other words have I screwed the pooch for using tenacity in the future?
Matt!! U killing me! I just overseeded and used Tenacity. Can I back that up w quinclorac?
Yes. Matt said in the video you can tank mix Tenacity and Quinclorac, as well as 2, 4D for added broadleaf control. I love Quinclorac! Matt also mentioned these all three were seed safe.
Matt - you hit another one out of the park! Very informative man😎👊
Was that Jpink baching his head on a board in the intro? Awesome!
Today’s video does not care about your feelings. Hahaha. I love this series of videos.
What percentages of Tenacity, Quinclorac, and 2,4 D do you recommend together? Could a NIS be used in that tank mix? Thank you.
For me, the last 10 seconds of what you said will stick with me the most. Three applications=83% less chance of weed survival.
I used it a few weeks ago during seeding of a 3500 sqr ft section of my property with Perennial Ryegrass and it bleached almost all of the weeds as they emerged. I’m sure I missed some spots while spraying. The dye hadn’t arrived in the mail in time. Second application to come shortly.
No no, Three Modes of Action in a single application is 83 times less likely to pass on herbicide resistance when controlling weeds!
Thanks for clarifying!
I've been pretty unimpressed with it so far. 3 apps might work great, but you then have to accept your yard will look pretty bad for what TWELVE weeks?
My thought (fescue lawn) has been to use it at seeding for some pre emergent coverage while you wait for the all-important second mow so you can apply something that really works. But I wouldn't buy it again just for that purpose and for most people, that 2nd mow is coming too late in the season to apply a dithiopyr/prodiamine.
I'm also mixing it into my spring prodiamine apps in case I have something that's already managed to sprout. As my confidence and knowledge of when to time the prodiamine grows, that may feel pointless.
Unless my math is off, you can apply 4.25 times a year, so if you really need to do a 3 app schedule to accomplish anything, you really limit your use cases and kind of need a plan at the beginning of the year when you'll use this.
The most obvious case IMO would be coming out of summer when your pre emergents have worn off and your preparing for the fall overseed. If we accept that takes 3 of the 4 possible apps, you'd have one left to either skip completely or use with something else in the spring if you need an extra boost.
Exactly 12 weeks of pandemonium for what - OK control? Thanks and no thanks!
Did you apply any nitrogen with any of your applications? And yes.. using this product is a huge time commitment. You expected to have everything killed off, new grass lush in 3 weeks? Unrealistic expectations.
I started weed control and feeding my lawn for the first time last year. It's come leaps and bounds since then. The only real undesirable I have left is Nimblewill. It's also spread out over about an acre. I've heard Mesotrione is the only known control for it. Do you have any recommendations? I should also mention I'm in Central Kentucky and have a mix of Bluegrass and Tall Fescue.
I second this. I'm in Kentucky as well. I've recently discovered Nimblewill in my lawn spreading in a lot of areas.
Tenacity is good for this, but remember multiple applications or you're burning $
@@TheGrassFactor Thank you sir. I plan on doing 2 apps, 3 weeks apart. I guessing around May when it starts to emerge.
I would like to know your recommendation for pre and post emergent weed control for a transition zone like Virginia Beach on tall fescue.
I have already applied tenacity twice two weeks apart.
Same here im in Newport news. I have tenacity but I just ordered some speed zone to try out as a pre. Im going to try speedzone alone when it comes then ill mix them 3 to 4 weeks later.
You got a little crab grass put Tenacity on it.
You got a little hair loss put Tenacity on it.
You got a cut, put Tenacity on it, follow up with dirt rub.
Very informative video. Was there a reason you didn't include its control on creeping bentgrass and nimblewill?
I certainly agree tenacity is an okay herbicide and not a work horse for most weeds, but I do think it offers some very good control in those two species which weren't mentioned in the scam video.
Keep up the good work Matt!
I had good control on nimblewill but needed 3 apps Matt nailed it!
I've never had successful bent control with it, though I have very limited experience trying to kill bent. Only 1 neighborhood I treated it had it (lake property) and in those instnaces neither pylex nor tenacity was able to kill it, only supress it.
@@TheGrassFactor Hey fellas, I hope you see this. Sounds like you may have some background with Tenacity. Long story short, nimblewill infected my lawn last fall and really took over before I realized what was happening. This spring I diagnosed and treated with Tenacity, BUT, in my excitement, I applied the maximum annual dose in one application. I think I got a really good response on the nimblewill, but then I found this video and wanted to do a second application... So now I'm kinda stuck, I haven't found a single other herbicide that is selective for nimblewill. What do think I should do? Just wait until next spring and do more, less concentrated apps? Ignore label and hit it again in the late summer/early fall when it thrives with a less concentrated app? Advice is appreciated.
As a pre-emergent application I never add surfactant. Even on follow ups applications. Am I applying this correctly? Or should I be adding surfactant?
I'm not a professional, but I'd not recommend adding a non-ionic surfactant (NIS) to a pre-emergent application as you want the herbicide to reach the soil as much as possible versus sticking to plants that have already emerged. If you are using it as a post-emergent, then the NIS would be used to add more cling to the plant with the NIS/herbicide so the plant would absorb the product versus having it run off to the soil.
I'm triggered by Matt's chest hair. Feeling inadequate over here. :)
Tenacity resistance
Matt, what are your thoughts on using this product to bring out and whiten problem grassy weeds and areas to later target with say glysophate?
I ask this question, because it helped me identify areas in my front yard that had quackgrass that was not real easy to pinpoint when all was green. I have also been using this in that same area to supposedly help with my bentrgrass issue. I'm doing 3 apps 4 weeks apart with a reseed on the 2nd app.
This view is spot on my real world application and confirms my experience. Great job explaining.
Is there a herbicide cocktail as you suggest I can get in SoCal for my lawn that covers what you just suggested?
Are you a teacher? You have a good approach/technique to instruction.
Thanks for fielding my tenacity/atrazine question today. Left me wondering if Celsius and atrazine would be the better combo.
Matt you really hit the nail on the head about that follow through on this product. So many say it is a horrible product but that follow though really does make the difference in my view. Nice way to bring it home also that by not doing the follow ups were only creating resistance.
One of my go to apps on dormant warm season grass is atrazine and msm with mso
24 minutes of science, whiteboards, and sheets. I watched a few youtube lawn guys use it, followed their method and it's worked great. Feels like college where the book info just drones on and real world application just works.
I definitely noticed spraying just Tenacity won't kill anything but does work as a good pre emergent. Since I was left with a bottle and nothing to use it on I mixed some in with my standard week killer and... Bam I invented something! Works great for crabgrass in a mixture.
I believe it is because you need to use a nonionic surfactants = NIS with it for it to stick to the plant.
@@joelabore3282 I always used a surfactant.
As a post-emergent, It requires 2-3 applications like 10 days apart. Also you need to use a NON-IONIC (take note) surfactant. Any surfactant would reduce your chances.
@@realToby yup. I stand by what I said.
I agree with your video. Very informative, as usual, thank you! I used MEC Amine D cocktail to get almost all of the broadleaf weeds out of my cool season lawn early summer and it was an effective tool. Didn't touch the heckin' Nimblewill, a warm season grass, so I resorted to Mesotrione (with NIS). I hammered the Nimblewill with a few apps a few weeks apart before seeding. Still dealing with Nimblewill after seeding, but I don't want to kill the new KBG (so slow to germinate and get to height) I seeded mid-August with another app of Mesotrione. Pylex is super expensive in the sizes available, so not sure what I'm going to do.
*overseeding, not renovation
how many watched this because of the Silver Cymbal video?
I have been using Tenacity for three yrs and never really worked. Thought I was doing something wrong
Ight, so after watching this I'm thinking for my TTTF reno go with Tenacity at seeding, again 4 weeks later, and then 4 Speed-XT 4 weeks after that.
Ready to seed bare spots this spring skipping prod completely. .New JG BBU in oct. Taking my chances with tenacity and speedzone as the weeds come. Just want to get roots deep. Also setting timers from 20 min a zone every other day to 2 hrs a zone once a week to drive roots. Also picked up 20 bags of purely organic for 3 bucks a bag along with humic coated urea for the spring break throw down.Any tips about this program? Just do not want root pruning to wreak havic with Prod.
Good video. Thank you.
What would be a better option for crabgrass? I'm in Florida and tenacity hasn't been very effective with our high temperatures
Now I’m hopeless...I have trivialis all over and been fighting with the thought of kill and replace my front lawn. Should I spray it completely with round up to make sure I kill all roots of the trivialis or remove the lawn and reseed? Will I get rid of the roots without the round up application? I’ve given up on tenacity..😞
Kathleen, until someone more knowledgeable responds, this is my two cents worth. If you come to decide you want to nuke the front lawn and start over, first figure out how much direct sunlight you get in that area, then go to a website that reviews the grass types and tells the pro's and cons of each. Google "Lawn Care Academy" and that is a decent start. I do not know if you are in the area for cool season grass, warm season grass or in the transition zone, but if you are starting over, I'd recommend looking at a grass type that spreads via stolons and/or rhizomes. If you do not, when you kill weeds, you have a bare spot and need to reseed that area or the bare spot will either remain bare, or fill back in with weeds. If you plant a turf type that spreads, when you kill weeds, the grass will creep into these areas without seeding and fill in. Zoysia grass is one of the favorite grass types. It doesn't spread really fast, but it fills in very densely and being so dense helps keep out weeds. There are types of Zoysia you can grow from seed which is the easiest in my opinion. Quinclorac and 2, 4D are seed safe herbicides you can use to keep many weeds at bay while the Zoysia establishes. Tenacity, which was the topic of this video isnt a good herbicide for Zoysia. But once established, Zoysia is a turf type that can withstand more Prodiamine (a pre-emergent) than many other turf types so once you kill weeds and put this down, it will help prevent a lot of weeds from germinating in the future and reduce competition for nutrients and water from weeds so your turf fills in better. Research types of Zoysia and see if your lawn has enough direct sunlight. If you are getting enough sunlight but in cool season areas, Kentucky Bluegrass is another very good turf type that spreads. I put down a test patch of Midnight Kentucky Bluegrass about a month ago and it is a dwarf grass and slow growing, but it has fine blades and a gorgeous color. I live near Richmond, VA so I am in the middle of the transition zone so both cool and warm season grass grow here, but neither thrive as well as they would in warmer or cooler climates, but after seeing my daughter come home twice in the past 1-2 weeks and lay in the Zoysia and make grass angels (instead of snow angels) in the lawn because she loved how soft it was, like carpet, I may scratch the KBG and just put more Zoysia in the back yard. Also look at how much fertilizer you need to put down when considering what turf type you want as it can impact how much you spend each year managing your lawn if you are on a tight budget. Herbicides are not usually cheap, but once purchased, you usually have enough to last 3-5 years. If you're on a budget, look in big box stores around Halloween or later and you can often find good deals on lawn products because the stores are dropping prices more and more to clear shelf space and put up items for the Thanksgiving and Christmas seasons, so you can stock up for less and just store it somewhere dry. If you do spray glyphosate, you can buy this in a concentrated form on Amazon for about $20 or so for a gallon of 41% concentrated glyphosate. Add in a non-ionic surfactant (Southern Ag has one on Amazon too) and allow your lawn to grow a little higher to give more surface to coat with glyphosate, then spray your lawn, give it a couple weeks to die, then mow a little lower and spray again to ensure you have as close to 100% kill as possible. Depending on the turf type, Tenacity may help as a safe pre-emergent herbicide to help suppress several types of weeds while your desirable turf grows in and becomes established. Best of luck no matter what course you take! Oh, I almost forgot to mention. If you go with a dense turf like Zoysia and you mow with a push mower, the lower you mow, the harder a normal rotary mower is to push through the dense grass. You can mow at about 1.75 inches and it feels fairly easy to mow, but drop the mower to 1.25 inches and you can tell the difference. Many people mow Zoysia as low as 0.5 inches. If you are going to mow that low, a cylinder or reel type mower is easier as it shears the grass with a scissor action versus a spinning blade that beats the grass. I've heard people say you should have a reel mower with 7 blades (versus 4 or 5 as many reel mowers have) if you want a really good cut. Personally, I love my Zoysia and I think it is worth the extra effort. If you have the budget, you could also check out auto-mowers. I've not had any personal experience with them, but by the time my mower dies, I'll know more. :0)
Love this, exactly what I do.
Thanks Matt, keep pounding the message on herbicide resistance!
mix in turflon ester to prevent bleaching, just can't seed right away though?
Can you mix q4 plus with tenacity?
omfg lolol this is true and hilarious at the same time ive been btfo by knowledge. ty sir!
My lawn is beautifully green... BUT it is 70% crabgrass. So, if I treat with Tenacity (per instructions) I will kill 70% of my lawn. My question is. How long after treating with Tenacity can I over-seed and fertilize and should I use starter fertilizer in this case?
This was a good information.
Given mesotrione and bentgrass don't get along, I stay away but I have heard from other superintendents that they've had success using it.
I just need a dummy proof app to put in my location, grass type, weed types, and lawn size. Hit calculate and it spits out what to use and how much.
So I'm thinking I'm ok to put down tenacity/quinclorac/speed zone in spot treating my fescue? 3 mode
I think it’s not a bad product when used in 3 apps at seeding in descending rate .... useless in one app most everything recovers
How descending? 5, 4, 3oz per acre? How often apply?
Interesting...how do you go about that?
Juan Perez Feliciano I think it’s a step down every three to four weeks
PutEmInTheBox I do like 4 oz to the acre then 3 then 2 ... 2 to 4 weeks apart
@@PaulsPrimeCuts Thank you. I'll try this next time ill use it.👍🏽
2 or 3 applications to a newly seeded lawn is a white lawn for a huge part or the entire spring and into summer. 3 applications 3 weeks apart could mean bright white nearly glowing in the dark grass and looks so unnatural that any people passing by have a strong tendency to stare at it. Much like the way many people will slow down to look and gawk at the wreckage while passing an awful car accident.
It would be faster to glyphosphate and seed a new lawn and spot spray any weeds popping up with a regular weed killer and if needed patch seed those spots. And not have a freak show of lawn for half the summer. Glyphosphate brown doesn't look unnatural like a good broadcast spray of Tenacity does. Plant seed and spot spray with decent three way 2-4D based herbicides, which are proven highly effective when sprayed on young recently emerged weeds killing them much faster with a single application compared to established weeds.
For crabgrass Id rather spot spray until its safe to use a pre emergent like prodiamine. We do the work to have beautiful grass not white grass
Can you link to these studies, trying to find something to handle Kikuyu
Very educational. Can you do one on pylex for bermuda grass.
You could turn things white and come back and paint on glyphosate with the weed wick. The wand application would keep the use of roundup to a bare minimum and the white color would ensure that you don't miss any weeds. You didn't say much about the pre emergent properties of tenacity. how effective is it? How does it compare with dimension or barricade in terms or effectiveness and cost?
Only the first study dealt with meso as a post, the other 2 were both pre studies. Significantly more expensive, significantly less residual than prodiamjne or dithiopyr, but of course more flexible than those as well
I have been using name brand retail for eons, but the Wild Violet; Clover and Crabgrass is still out there laughing at me. The bad part is: Our lawn appearance is accelerating downhill. What's the big deal after 30 years? Neighbors buying here do not care for the lawns so weeds spread everywhere. I am willing to try Tenacity. If that does not work, then it becomes "Pro" time for me.
Tenacity would be a good start, but a mix like surepower + quinclorac in a cool season lawn would be much more effective in a single application
I applied Tenacity to my lawn in Indiana and it didn’t do anything to the crabgrass. Frosted the tips a little. I didn’t do two applications though.
He missed one key reason to use Tenacity. Some of us can't use 2,4-d, dicamba, or any of the other growth inhibitors because we grow crops that are highly sensitive to their presence. Grapes, for example, can have their crop injured or even killed with 1/100th the concentration of the label rate of 2,4-d. And given how highly volatile 2,4-d (and several others) are, even spraying this with a handheld droplet sprayer inches from the ground level with zero wind, you will STILL injure the grapes. Tenacity of one of only a handful of post emergent herbicides which can meet this need.
Love it Matt. Have had great success here in Nebraska.
It definitely needs multiple applications. I do like spiking it with other products like quinclorac for post emergent control of crabgrass.
I put down my first grass seed last year and Quinclorac was the first herbicide I bought along with 2, 4D after nuking the lawn with glyphosate. I'm a huge fan of Quinclorac too!
MAybe I missed it but what do i use while overseeding that wont hurt the seed?
U can use tenacity with seeding
After treating my cool season lawn (KBG, Tall Fescue and Ryegrass)) with Tenacity and waiting the 2-days after treating, my lawn (with the white dying weeds) needs a mowing. Should I mow & bag my lawn (with dead/dying weeds) or should I mulch and let the mulched white dying weeds fall to soil/thatch layer)
Which method is most effective so as to not interrupt the Tenacity Treatment?
I would mow
@@TheGrassFactor that response DOES NOT answer my specific question! 🤦♀️
@@carmelom269 didn't see the bottom. if it's turning white, the herbicide has been taken into the plant likely as much as it can take up. So you can mow. Mulching or bagging is moot and will not offer one advantage over the other.
I went out with mesotrione at 1/2tsp per 1000 two weeks ago after aerate and oversees. My lawn looks like shit but no weeds. Can’t believe such little chemical can have such a huge effect.
After using tenacity reseed and again in 2wks reseed in a mounth watch it come alive.