I have owned three Vulcan 750s, two of them bought new. The Vulcan 750 engine is a nightmare from hell. 16 valves, hydraulic lifters, four camshafts, four cam chains, 2 jackshafts, 4 spark plugs, a counterbalancer, rubber engine mounts, a positive neutral finder, liquid cooling, external oil lines, the worst carburetor design ever (but at least it's better than EFI) shaft drive with a separate front bevel drive gearbox, automatic cam chain tensioners designed to fail, a stator you can't get to without removing the engine, and the most convoluted intake system I've ever seen. Also notice just how close the coolant passages are to the cylinder bores and the outside of the head. The head gasket is very narrow around those passages, and leaks are not uncommon. It has twice as many parts as it needs. It has twice as many parts as my H-D Sportster engine. You have to wonder just what kind of a person thought this up. Most people familiar with this engine believe it was redesigned and modified several times before being put into the Vulcan in its final form. I think it may have originally been intended as a chain drive sportbike engine. That could explain its hydraulic valves, since in the Vulcan frame there is no way to get the covers off to adjust the valves, the fact that you cannot remove the stator cover with it in the Vulcan frame, and the obviously added on bevel drive gearcase. It's certainly not the sort of thing someone would design for a v twin cruiser. Aside from its excessive complexity and automotive appearance, it has the wrong characteristics for a cruiser. It has decent power, but the much better looking and far less complicated Suzuki Intruder 750 engine has more. And it has the wrong sound, feel, and lack of low end torque. I'd sure like to know the true story behind this Frankenstein engine. On the good side, I did manage to get 118,000 miles out of one before a broken cam chain destroyed it.
Well I can officially say it’s the first time I’ve ever had a problem with my 750. My Shift bar came unscrewed So I’m in the process of taking apart the whole engine just to get to it your video has helped quite a bit for teardown I’m just having some trouble Splitting the 2 half’s of the engine apart
There are pry points along the case. I put a big flathead in those locations and used an adjustable wrench on the screwdriver for leverage. Best of luck!
@@hundleycycleshop8876 Thank you! I ended up getting the case apart but slight problem I think somebody Put Loctite on it all the way around it’s a bit broken up and jagged And a bit powdery around the whole seem. Sanded it off but that’s still a bit odd
@@Diebesten162 yes I seem to have had that issue as well. I was finding crusty bits of who knows what in various places. Could be lock tight or as hard as it is to image, it could be dirt from the road. Once it's all cleaned up. It will go back together nicely. Good work!
@@hundleycycleshop8876 I am painting the engine black and adding silver highlights to the fins It was a bit of a disappointment when the shifter failed but it’s my first vehicle and there’s always room for improvement and customization that’s the fun of it!
love your video on the break down and rebuild of the Vulcan, I am taking on the same myself. love how you move through it all patiently. You mentioned your found a replaceent empeller shaft. Where did you find one? that would be a big help at this time for me which I am worried I may need to replace mine and the parts supplier I work with informed me that the part is discontinued.
i sat thru the whole thing to hear the fire up...wow...nicely done...Im thinking theres a future for your young self....Really it's just a matter of one thing at a time..like painting...Don't get lost in the big picture...just stay focused on the one thing at a time...Bravo to ya...for sticking it thru...and btw, i had the stator replaced on my Vstrom 1000 and feel like a dope....1300 bucks he squeezed outa me...i did the same job on my Intruder...save a butt load...just saying...what you did probably saved you 2 grand if not more...or, you made two grand doing it on your own...
Thank you! Your absolutely right, it's all about focusing on one step at a time. After a bit you'll look at it all collectively and see all your hard work payed off!
Question for you... I am tearing down my Vulcan 750 as well. I don't have the correct bolt to thread into the stator motor pulley, do you know the bolt size to pull the stator shell off the shaft?
Bravo, you've got some skills! Today I noticed a small amount of oil coming out the weep hole, but no coolant there at all, and the bike is working fine. Does that mechanical seal also keep oil from getting through to the weep hole? Do you think there's a chance that swapping the mechanical seal might help to prevent need to tear the whole engine down to get at the O rings behind?
Unfortunately that is the terrible part about the whole design. If there is coolant leaking from the wheep hole, you can surmise that the mechanical seal is bad. If oil is leaking it would be the seal that is behind the bearing on the inside of the crankcase. The only way I could access the bearing and oil seal was from the inside.
Had you ever done this before at the time? How long over all did it take? And what about overall cost if you don't mind me asking, i mean with all the pieces, gaskets and specialty tools purchased.
Nice job dude. I just picked one of these bikes up super cheap. What are you running for pipes on it? And did you have to re jet. Sounds mean. The stock pipes are just way too quiet
Eu queria saber se a posição do cilindro da frente é a mesma posição do cilindro traseiro os dois comando foi os dois da mesma posição dianteiro e traseiro
good night, i would like to know how you adjusted the stitch i saw the markings but i am finding it weird because i have to go back 4 so that everyone is aligned, i have twice dismantled the engine and the front cylinder as you turn the engine it arrives in one point that is very hard and the chain of control of the front cylinder is stretched. I'm talking about Brazil, it's difficult to find documentation of the bike, there is some secret in the assembly. Big hug.
Yes, I gather that you are wondering how to achieve proper chain tension. The bike originally comes with automatic chain tensioner's that can be preloaded and installed. What I have are manual chain tensioner's which are aftermarket. You just snug them up against the chain making sure to take up the play and adjust after you get the engine running. If you have excessive play in the chain after the OEM part is installed, you need to be sure your chain hasn't stretched past factory specifications.
You time each cylinder separately. I would highly recommend getting the factory manual timing procedure, because it is very confusing at first. Great question!
I have owned three Vulcan 750s, two of them bought new. The Vulcan 750 engine is a nightmare from hell. 16 valves, hydraulic lifters, four camshafts, four cam chains, 2 jackshafts, 4 spark plugs, a counterbalancer, rubber engine mounts, a positive neutral finder, liquid cooling, external oil lines, the worst carburetor design ever (but at least it's better than EFI) shaft drive with a separate front bevel drive gearbox, automatic cam chain tensioners designed to fail, a stator you can't get to without removing the engine, and the most convoluted intake system I've ever seen. Also notice just how close the coolant passages are to the cylinder bores and the outside of the head. The head gasket is very narrow around those passages, and leaks are not uncommon. It has twice as many parts as it needs. It has twice as many parts as my H-D Sportster engine. You have to wonder just what kind of a person thought this up. Most people familiar with this engine believe it was redesigned and modified several times before being put into the Vulcan in its final form. I think it may have originally been intended as a chain drive sportbike engine. That could explain its hydraulic valves, since in the Vulcan frame there is no way to get the covers off to adjust the valves, the fact that you cannot remove the stator cover with it in the Vulcan frame, and the obviously added on bevel drive gearcase. It's certainly not the sort of thing someone would design for a v twin cruiser. Aside from its excessive complexity and automotive appearance, it has the wrong characteristics for a cruiser. It has decent power, but the much better looking and far less complicated Suzuki Intruder 750 engine has more. And it has the wrong sound, feel, and lack of low end torque. I'd sure like to know the true story behind this Frankenstein engine. On the good side, I did manage to get 118,000 miles out of one before a broken cam chain destroyed it.
Incredible video. Nice job showcasing what you've done here. It's very helpful!
Good job. Nice engine stand too. Helps keep organized.
great job with very thorough explanations!
Well I can officially say it’s the first time I’ve ever had a problem with my 750. My Shift bar came unscrewed So I’m in the process of taking apart the whole engine just to get to it your video has helped quite a bit for teardown I’m just having some trouble Splitting the 2 half’s of the engine apart
There are pry points along the case. I put a big flathead in those locations and used an adjustable wrench on the screwdriver for leverage. Best of luck!
@@hundleycycleshop8876 Thank you! I ended up getting the case apart but slight problem I think somebody Put Loctite on it all the way around it’s a bit broken up and jagged And a bit powdery around the whole seem. Sanded it off but that’s still a bit odd
@@Diebesten162 yes I seem to have had that issue as well. I was finding crusty bits of who knows what in various places. Could be lock tight or as hard as it is to image, it could be dirt from the road. Once it's all cleaned up. It will go back together nicely. Good work!
@@hundleycycleshop8876 I am painting the engine black and adding silver highlights to the fins It was a bit of a disappointment when the shifter failed but it’s my first vehicle and there’s always room for improvement and customization that’s the fun of it!
love your video on the break down and rebuild of the Vulcan, I am taking on the same myself. love how you move through it all patiently. You mentioned your found a replaceent empeller shaft. Where did you find one? that would be a big help at this time for me which I am worried I may need to replace mine and the parts supplier I work with informed me that the part is discontinued.
Thanks, makes me much more confident I'll be able to do it myself if needed!
seriously awesome video -- thank you for sharing and safe riding !
i sat thru the whole thing to hear the fire up...wow...nicely done...Im thinking theres a future for your young self....Really it's just a matter of one thing at a time..like painting...Don't get lost in the big picture...just stay focused on the one thing at a time...Bravo to ya...for sticking it thru...and btw, i had the stator replaced on my Vstrom 1000 and feel like a dope....1300 bucks he squeezed outa me...i did the same job on my Intruder...save a butt load...just saying...what you did probably saved you 2 grand if not more...or, you made two grand doing it on your own...
Thank you! Your absolutely right, it's all about focusing on one step at a time. After a bit you'll look at it all collectively and see all your hard work payed off!
you're a brave man for sure....Do at some point ever feel lost?
Question for you... I am tearing down my Vulcan 750 as well. I don't have the correct bolt to thread into the stator motor pulley, do you know the bolt size to pull the stator shell off the shaft?
Is it possible to reset the valve cam timing without doing a complete teardown???...
What's the OEM part number for the water pump rod bearings and mechanical seal parts? Where did you order from?
Bravo, you've got some skills! Today I noticed a small amount of oil coming out the weep hole, but no coolant there at all, and the bike is working fine. Does that mechanical seal also keep oil from getting through to the weep hole? Do you think there's a chance that swapping the mechanical seal might help to prevent need to tear the whole engine down to get at the O rings behind?
Unfortunately that is the terrible part about the whole design. If there is coolant leaking from the wheep hole, you can surmise that the mechanical seal is bad. If oil is leaking it would be the seal that is behind the bearing on the inside of the crankcase. The only way I could access the bearing and oil seal was from the inside.
Had you ever done this before at the time? How long over all did it take? And what about overall cost if you don't mind me asking, i mean with all the pieces, gaskets and specialty tools purchased.
When doing the timing, when the front jug is at top dead center, is the rear jug 180 out?
Nice job dude. I just picked one of these bikes up super cheap. What are you running for pipes on it? And did you have to re jet. Sounds mean. The stock pipes are just way too quiet
Great job! Could you provide a link or part number for the EBC clutch tool?
Ótimo trabalho! Se for do teu conhecimento, sabe me dizer qual pneu traseiro de carro serve na vulcan e qual a medida ? Obrigado
Where are you located I need mine rebuilt
YOU REALLY HAVE TO LIKE THIS TO MAKE SURE YOU COME OUT OK AT THE END...
Eu queria saber se a posição do cilindro da frente é a mesma posição do cilindro traseiro os dois comando foi os dois da mesma posição dianteiro e traseiro
Help, I'm looking for an engine for VN 750 year 2002, I don't know where to buy, I'm from Bolivia and there are no spare parts in my country
good night, i would like to know how you adjusted the stitch i saw the markings but i am finding it weird because i have to go back 4 so that everyone is aligned, i have twice dismantled the engine and the front cylinder as you turn the engine it arrives in one point that is very hard and the chain of control of the front cylinder is stretched. I'm talking about Brazil, it's difficult to find documentation of the bike, there is some secret in the assembly. Big hug.
Yes, I gather that you are wondering how to achieve proper chain tension. The bike originally comes with automatic chain tensioner's that can be preloaded and installed. What I have are manual chain tensioner's which are aftermarket. You just snug them up against the chain making sure to take up the play and adjust after you get the engine running. If you have excessive play in the chain after the OEM part is installed, you need to be sure your chain hasn't stretched past factory specifications.
Is there any gasket that goes in between the case, or is it just something RTV can handle?
No gasket. Just RTV capable of sealing oil. I used Ultra black.
Bout to pick up the same bike for $150. Let’s see how it goes
So when you line up the front timing marks does the back head line up aromatic are do you line it up separate
You time each cylinder separately. I would highly recommend getting the factory manual timing procedure, because it is very confusing at first. Great question!
Hi, can you tell me where did you get all the gaskets you used for your VN750? thanks you
I got most of my parts and gaskets OEM from bikebandit.com. There were also a few things I was able to find on ebay.
Can you share the manual?