BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH REPLACEMENT LOCATION BMW E46 325i 328i 330i 320i 323i 318i 320d 318d 330d
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- Опубликовано: 30 авг 2019
- BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH REPLACEMENT LOCATION BMW E46 325i 328i 330i 320i 323i 318i 320d 318d 330d
In this video we will explain how to remove and replace the brake light switch on BMW E46. We demonstrated where the brake brake light switch is, how to get to the brake light switch, and how to replace it on 2005 BMW 330ci but it will work on many models.
1998 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
1999 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2000 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2001 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2002 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2003 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2004 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
2005 BMW e46 Brake Light Switch Replacement Location 330i 328i 325i 323i 320i 318i 316i 330d 325d 320d 318d 330xi 325xi 320xi 320ci 325ci 330ci 318ci
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ATTENTION VIEWERS: There is NO need to remove the entire plastic assembly from the metal plate as he shows here. Once you've removed the metal plate from the car simply slide the center Hall effect sensor out of its plastic assembly. The actual sensor (the part with the wiring attached) easily slides out of the plastic assembly. Just remove that small part and slide the new one in. Yeah, you CAN remove the whole thing if you want, but, "ain't nobody got time fo dat". Make it easy on yourself. You're welcome!
Thank you! My car just returned from the dealer where they replaced the brake master cylinder. I noticed when I was almost home that the brake lights were stuck in the on positions, in other words they were staying on. I checked both fuses (#9 & #32) and both fuses were fine (plus the brake light warning lights on the dash were not on). I then found this video when I searched how to replace the brake light switch. After watching the video I realized that it could be adjusted. I removed the cover under the dash and adjusted the switch to meet the pedal and the brake lights are now functioning correctly. This saved me the trouble of returning to the dealer tomorrow morning.
This video was so helpful! Thank you for explaining all the steps from the very beginning, so I could get my switch out easily!
It worked 😁 thanks a lot for the advice guys. First attempt never done anything similar before. Just got the replacement by the post today and fixed it in less than 5 mins 👍🤞💪😁 bmw 346 325ti 2001 manual..it works perfectly
That was very helpful I checked the fuse#9 5amp first it was good then I opened everything under the panel like u did I found out that the spring broken… I’ll get new spring and replace it I’m sure will fix my brake lights… thanks again very helpful 👍😊
Thanks man! 5is helped me out! It was an adjustment on the switch!
Keep doing a great job I have saved myself a lot of money I don't have, instructions very easy to follow, I am no mechanic but after watching the video a few times I can fixed my own car so check it out and good luck 🤞
Thanks so much for helping us how to replace break switch
That was possibly the best 10 minutes of my life. lol. Thanks for this! It also applies to my 2006 Range Rover HSE.
Thanks for sharing about your Range Rover, because I own a 2010 Land Rover LR 4 in addition to the 2006 BMW 760 I (V12)
Good help...tks
Thank you for your help you are awesome
Thanks bro, perfect
This is still a useful video BUT the sensor simply unclips - NO TOOLS NEEDED - Just pull out the wiring plug, slide out the sensor with your fingers, then pop out the plastic holder. No need to unbolt anything. Refitting is reverse, but press the brake pedal in first and the switch will automatically adjust itself once released. P.S it's a hall effect sensor, not a mechanical switch.
Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
can you please post a video on how to test to see if it still works or if its broken
This is for an automatic, my car is manual. Come to found out the switch is sitting on top of the transmission on the drive side.
Thank you!!! I have manual m3
I was lost thanks again
@@joemanga350 no problem.
How did you access the brake light switch on top of the transmission? Was the car on a rack
Thk.👍❤️
The blue contact came loose when i tried to do this on my own.. the blue contact folds and the cables won’t get stuck in the contact. Do you now how to put the cables back and stuck in the blue contact and in which position it should be in?
Now the problem is that either the breaklight is on or off
Thinking this is the problem I’m having with hub magnet shift lock errors, car starts and shifts without pressing pedal ,anyone got any pointers on my issue? Further research I find that I can clear error codes and start without touching brake pedal,the moment the pedal is pressed instantly hubmagnet shiftlock transmission fault appears? Would replacement of this switch possibly help?
2002 bmw 325ci fuse box 1 to 15 are gettting only 2.6 volt . Do you know where is power coming from to 1 to 15 fuses?
I’m having an issue electrical not working no dash lights or working radio and no gas pedal anyone knows?
Help
How do I fix my tail light? Its completely out. And my left blinker light is out as well.
I have a 2006 330ci zhp convertible. Please help
hello my friend, see if you can help me, i have a mini automatic cooper from 2003 and it got the stops fixed i already changed the switch, but it still works when i turn on the contact, i had to redo the connections i don't know if this is right or if i have another problem help me please
Cual es el falló cuando ese interruptor está dañado?
Hi my bmw 2005 320i e90 wont shift into any gear when the engine starts.
Would replacing the brake lever switch fix this?
No your transmission
More than likely the TCM went out.
My Z4 E89. Water corrosion in my cars switch stopped the car from starting. Brake lights permanently on.
All started with fob, press to start, nothing other than what you see ignition on.
OBD reader said start button and fob slot fault, so i replaced them, no start.
Then all restraint system came up fault and half dozen others.
Checked terminal outputs obd, all there except Terminal R.
I could see Term. R feeds clutch and brake switch.
Obd said they not responding (no term R).
So i put ign. on, noticed brake lights stuck on.
Checked switch, damp with corrosion.
I removed and unplugged, car started. I cleared all codes, just brake light switch fail (it's removed).
Taken 5 weeks to solve this problem with other things going on.
Stupid switch to remove. To adjust pull outwards with finger nails the plastic parts with the vertical lines on. The centre then slides in or out
Hello guys. Can I ask you a question? I have this same problem. Brake lights stay on after first press. They go off when I turn off the ignition. I have replaced brake bulbs and 5A fuse #9, none of which were blown, but on a just in case basis. I have replaced the brake pedal light switch with new twice in case the first new one' fitted 3 months ago, was dodgy. I have tried a different LCM that I bought from ebay. Problem still exsts. The annoying thing is that I don't think this problem ex sted when I replaced the original brake switch. I replaced it 3 months ago because I was getting an intermittent fault code on the original and all was well, as far as I know, until last Saturday when a guy told me my brake lights were staying on. I don't really know hw long it has been doing this to be fair. Any sugestions? Cheers.
Did you manage to resolve this on your car?
@@macmiah5747 Yes.
The LCM is responsible for leaving the brake lights on if your brake light switch is faulty or someone has replaced it
with an aftermarket switch. The aftermarket switches don't work. You need an OEM switch.
The reason for this is that the OEM switch is actually two switches in one. One of those switches is used
by the LCM to check the brake circuit while the other one actually turns the brake lights on and off.
The aftermarket switches only have the latter. Even though they are marketed as OEM. They are not.
This means that with the aftermarket switches when the LCM tests the circuit it can't find the switch it needs and
concludes that the brake circuit is on open circuit and records a fault. It also leaves the brake light on as it is
programmed to do as part of its emergency mode response.
The aftermarket switches look different from the OEM switches. If you have an aftermarket switch replace
it with an OEM switch. The OEM one is about 5mm shorter and the serations re on the opposite faces to the aftermarke switches.
Took me three weeks to figure out what was going on when I had this after replacing mt brake switch.
I had been driving around with my brake lights permanently on for 3 months until a guy drew my
attention to it in a car park. I had no idea.
After the guy in the car park told me my brake lights were on permanently I did the logical thing and put another new aftermarket switch on it. No change.
Checked out all the wiring to rear clusters and between LCM and brake switch. Checked out fine.
Then plugged in my PA Soft and could see the brake light circuit switching on and off ok which just confused me more.
So I suspected the LCM because it was reporting open circuit on the brake switch circuit even though the circuit was ok and the brake switch appeared to be working ok.
I replaced the LCM. No change.
Then I notice that the problem only occurred when the key was in position 2 (ignition on). Brake lamps worked fine with key in position 1 (ignition off).
So I replaced the ignition switch. No change.
I then turned back to the wiring diagrams but this time I read the notes. (When all else fails read the notes)
That's what gave me the clue about the OEM double switch.
I figured if the test switch was missing in the aftermarket switches that would explain the behavior.
So I went to the BMW dealership and bought the correct switch. It cost 3 times the price of the aftermarket switches but hey. Fixed the problem.
My advise to anyone with this problem would be go straight for the brake switch. Make sure it is OEM for the programmable LCM.
These after market switches may be OEM but only if you have a non programmable LCM. I believe they do exist. E36 for example.
@@veritasaequitas9875 Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated 👍. Today, the error light turned on for the rear lights whilst driving on the motorway. When I managed to stop and check, we realised the brake lights stay on once pressed. They switch off when I switch off the engine and take the key out. I will relay your experience to my mechanic.
The correct switch will solve the problem. I have handed this information out on a number of BMW forums
to others in this situation. Solves the problem.
The part info for the BMW brake light switch is 6908787 0-1412133-2 PBT GF20
The correct switch is 34mm long as opposed to the 37 mm of the aftermarket part.
The switch brackets of the real OEM and aftermarket switches are not interchangeable.
Here is an extract from the BMW Wiring Diagram System that explains the dual function of
the brake light switch. The two switches it refers to are incorporated in the one physical switch
that is fitted alongside your brake pedal. So don't start looking for a second physical.
Brake-light/brake-test switches
Two switches are fitted on the brake pedal which supply the following signals:
•S_BLS (Brake-Light Switch)
•S_BLTS (Brake-Light Test Switch)
The DME control module evaluates the signals for the purpose of registering brake operation.
Function
•Model series E38, E39, E46, E53, E6x, E8x:
The brake-light switch connects to ground (B-), the brake-light test switch connects to B+.
•Model series E36/7 (Z3):
The brake-light switch and the brake-light test switch connect to B+.
Both signals are checked for plausibility.
The following tables show (depending on the model series) how the status of the brake-light switch/brake-light test switch performs:
Model series E38, E39, E46, E53, E6x, E8x: Brake pedal not operated, Brake pedal operated:
Status, brake-light switch: Closed, Open
Status of brake-light test switch: Open Closed
Model series E36/7 (Z3): Brake pedal not operated. Brake pedal operated
Status, brake-light switch Open Closed
Status of brake-light test switch Open Closed
Troubleshooting
If the signals are not plausible in relation to one another, a fault code is stored in the DME control module.
Cruise control is deactivated as a result of this fault memory entry.
@@veritasaequitas9875 Thanks for the info. Will check the part number.
I removed it without doing any of this , took me 2 minutes
How
@@vaughnmcintyre6386 remove the bolt for the bracket, once it comes out , just unplug up and use the side to press pops right out
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Don’t fallow this tutorial just take out electric cable an push out just plastic sensor otherwise will end up like me half day just to get in place metal pice with 3 pedals not so esy 😂
Probably your worst video.