You all probably dont care at all but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Raphael Ali thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I LOVE how you included the tip on using a clear colored paint over a mettalic with Tamiya. One of my favorite techniques to use when painting figures.
I wish I did that on restoring 2 vintage Kenner C-3po figures to get the color back. Color was very close but not as shiny as what Kenner used in 1978 and 1982.
When I have been using acrylic paint for sculptures, for many years, the skin texture always looked choppy. But now that you gave me all the important info on making the skin texture look great. I like to thank you so much! Great info.
I appreciate your experience and going over each type of paint. Very helpful. The prep work you mention is also great! No one really talks about putting in the work but you nailed it. Thanks.
I for one would LOVE to see some live customization videos. I’ve been customizing MOTUC figures for five years but I don’t think my prep and technique is very good at all, so I’d be way in to seeing someone else do it.
I really appreciate your taking time to make this video. My #1 reason for my 10-year absense from customizing is that i didn't understand apex-level choices for supplies like paints & such. I only want to customize if i can make the figure look exactly the way i want it to. Thank you for giving me the tools i need to get over my concerns.
Thank you very much for the informative video. Recently Walmart messed up an order & I ended up with three extra McFarlane DC multiverse figures. I look forward to attempting some of your techniques. Thanks for the help.
I customize a lot of figures and I've always used paints like apple barrel, and i never liked how when you move the joints the paint comes off, i never sanded anything, this video really helped a lot, thanks
I've been painting figures off and on for a few years now and I've been using straight acrylic (the one on the far left) without watering it down and it always came out a little funny. I've only recently discovered I need to sand and wash them too, so I've got quite a bit to learn. Thanks a bunch for the help, hopefully this helps make my custom Combiner Wars piece come along better.
Sanding is the process of rubbing a coarse material, generally sandpaper or sanding sticks, across a surface. Generally this is done to scuff the surface, which allows the paint to stick better. However, it can also be done to remove a top coat, old paint, or even scratches and dents in some materials.
Have You ever painted Capes ?? Because everything is gravy w/ the _Sharpie_ paint pens I use. Even the cheap $1 Walmart paint pens are okay for touch up or A topper (Deco-color & Craftsman pens stay away). Anyhow it seems like anytime I paint A cape (even after sanding), it leads to paint rub back onto the figure. Not as much on the joints; Nothing compared to the paint rub I get on the Capes !!! > This is the 3rd differnt cape I painted now & it seems like the problem presists across all toy lines w/ the cape(s). And the paint not sticking properly. ANY TIPS ????
@@KimotaCustoms I figured you'd find it humorous if you were active still. Good news is you are! I was looking for paint for some old AFs and your post popped. Thanks for the strong recommendations. #Subscribed
I usually just kitbash and then paint smaller ad on parts with craft paint and that works fine but lately I’ve trying to do more difficult customs that require an entirely new paint job so this was very helpful. I’m gonna get some p3 lol
I needed this video. I plan on doing some customs on transformers figures, but I haven't customized a figure in a long time because the paint was always way too textured. I hate seeing brushstrokes on customs. Nice knowing a bit more about paints to use because that was my biggest concern.
Apple Barrel paints and Arteza are my go to paints for action figures. Haven't let me down yet. Only reason i am moving towards Testors Acrylic is because i am running out of the other two. Am super satisfied with the results of my customs and statuettes that i've done. Can't wait to give these other a suggestions a try. Solid recommendations all around.
The Apple Barrels work way better than this guy says lol and good luck getting Testor's Acrylic. I've tried so hard looking for them and all I can ever find are their enamel paints. Tamiyas work really well too but you need to get a retarder for it and it requires alcohol as a thinner.
@@LitchAzazel The problem with Apple Barrel paints is that they do not have strong binding agents. They're completely water based. So if you try using these paints on resin pieces, PVC statues or action figures, you won't be able to play with them or touch them too much. Otherwise you'll be looking at paint flaking off. Like you can literally take your nail and scrape away Apple Barrel paints from non porous plastic surfaces. You can also wash away apple barrel paints quite easily in hot water. If you try and use Dullcote or any other solvent based protectors, it will activate and separate the barrel type paints and give a very ugly result. Apple Barrel and Craftsmart type paints were made for use on paper, wood, foam boards, and such highly porous surfaces. Not smooth plastics. I've first tried Apple Barrel years ago on my 1990s movie Donatello (tmnt) head sculpt, which I still have up on my vid section. I used a purple color for his bandana, because I was hoping to achieve a very convincing fabric finish (super matte finish) and I knew these types of paint dry very flat. It gave me a very nice finish and it looked like actual cotton fabric, next to his semi-gloss satin skin finish. Sadly... the paint just didn't hold up. I was able to scrape it off very easily and when I tried coating it with a protector (testor's dullcote), it cracked the paint up and it looked like a total mess. I ended up opting with Tamiya (which I use almost exclusively on all my customs and sculpts) as well as Mr Color. Tamiya and Mr Color are acrylic but they have very strong binding agents. Mr Color is the stronger of the two and you can smell it. (smells horrible). So if you're going to use Apple Barrel, then I'm assuming you understand you can't handle it too much after you're done. I like being able to handle my customs without the fear of flaking paint.
Great video and very helpful. I review figs and have been tempted to try customization. I had tried doing a black wash and it was a disaster because I didn't know what I was doing. Thanks again for your video.
Thanks for the video. I have been re collecting and re carding the vintage Kenner star wars figures using the restore nation re card kits. I had good results with testers and model color. Had to mix some paints to get the right or close color. Because most were touch ups and repair I didn't water the paints down. No problems except one dis appointment was touching up a Luke Skywalker bespin outfit hair. I used the same paint I used on the Luke Skywalker from a new hope. Problem is maybe the paint wasn't cured enough or because I was moving it after it was sealed in the blister some paint rubbed of from the crown of Luke bespin hair. The model color paint grey I found was exactly like the color on tie fighter pilots boots and gloves. I used that grey on some repro weapons one success was on my Luke Skywalker in Jedi outfit. The repro weapons lot I got were slightly lighter grey than the original Kenner versions and Luke Jedi came with a jabbas palace blaster. All the colors from the lot were nothing like the original because I have another Jedi Luke I bought when I was a kid. I painted the blaster with the grey I used on tie fighter and I compared with the original it was the same. I think Kenner used the same colors on slot of figures and accessories back then. I used the same Gold on my 2 C-3po figures to paint the trim on bespin security guard and compared it to a mint on card original online and it looked great. The return of the Jedi figures were hard but I was able to touch up 8d8 and emporer figures. The torso on 8d8 is yellow and I don't want to do the hydrogen peroxide method because it has some nice pair areas. My only disappointment is the paint is a little flat I might need to put a clear coat? I had this problem when I made a vinyl Cape for Ben Kenobi. The repros in the market were not close in color with originals and to get originals were very expensive. I used 3:colors to get a 98% to the original cape. The downside the paint was cracking now after watching your video I see what my mistake was.
where i live the most common type of acrilic you found is the one that comes in 50ml bottles, the label only says it is "decorative acrylic"...is it good for customs? i used it in some miniatures and it worked just fine
I use all of these with good results, except P3. I don't think they sell P3 in Ireland. The best and smoothest primer I have used to date, is actually a particular brand of automotive paint. A really thin coat of epoxy resin dulled down with anti-shine afterwards gives great protection against moving part paint abrasion. I sculpt, mold and cast figures and some have received heavy knocks with no effect because of the epoxy coatings.
Great video! Tons of great tips on what to do and not do. Very helpful on what types to choose from bc most people starting out have the same beginners problem. They're always unsure what types of paints to use and end up ruining their projects. Just try to stay away from the "um" in your speech. Not being funny or rude, just helps with presentation.
I really like tamiya primer. Granted its a pretty small can for the money but i really like how smoothe it lays down and how it dries quick and it seems to stick to anything. I used to do alot of hot wheels customs but have just recently got into gi joe classified figures and have wanted to do some custom cobra army figures so im trying to figure out what paint will work the best.
Thank you for explaining the differences between paints and primer. I really would like to see a life tutorial. I found some of my kids old action figures while cleaning out the basement and I was going to donate them but I thought why not try to customize them it will be a good project for my grandson and I since we both like art.
Going to attempt to make a Mr. Negative custom on the Everett Ross body. Any suggestions on painting the rubbery jacket? And do you know how to do pearlescents?
Hello, thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. Based on this video, I started using vallejo instead of testor enamel (you are right, it never dries). Right now the problem I am having is that everytime I touch a figure I paint, some pills off; I tried using army primer and the primer remains in place but the paint still falls off after a couple of times handleling the figure. I tried to use varnish from vallejo but doesn't keep the paint in place. Do you have any suggestions? Some people have told me to use clear glue or polyurethane but I dont know what brand to use and trying glue made one of my figures have cracks :( . Thank you in advance for your response
I intend on customizing my McFarlane Doomslayer, although I intend on doing minor repainting on it, would you recommend me to use a Scotchbrite pad for the tiny details and a primer? If so, which primer?
Lol.. This is literally the same Fig i'm thinking about repainting. I was wondering same type thing. What's best way to remove stock paint on action figures??
Definitely post guides on here. This video just showed me a ton of mistakes just with paint I’ve been making. After applying you last acrylic layer should you put anything else on the last coat to help preserve it?
What do you recommend for prepping aside from sanding for a piece that has, like, more detailed sculpt on it than a smooth Legends blank body, like a belt piece, and don't want to lose any of that detail?
Look of 3M scotch-brite. They're a red color wool pad. Looks like a green scrub sponge for dishes. I paint airplanes and we use them for exactly what you're talking about. They make all kinds of grit just like sand paper. You're gonna want medium grit. Not too coarse but not too fine like a green dish sponge. Hope that helps
I have American diorama 1/18 scale resin figures that a would like to repaint/change the color on them but i don't know how to do it and what type of paint should i by for it? Can you guide me on that please? And thank you.
Could you do a video on how to sand properly and ive been using a Dawn dish liquid soak for 2 minutes then scrub them few seconds with a bottle brush. I'd love to see what tools to sand with. I have a dremel but not sure what end to use for sanding I don't wanna grind down too far. Thank you. Really enjoy your vids.
i wanted to paint 40th anniversary he-man's weapons. they are just grey plastic, i did it once with some leather paint i had, i didn't prep the weapon before hand so idk if it would have worked enough for the time. i picked up some 2 hard additive and figured i'll give it a try. i wasn't prepared for buying action figure customizing paints an stuff so could have just not got the 2 hard but i might need it later on. i'll pick up some of what you got going on.
Thanks for the information. I’m looking to repaint my Lanyard Queen Alien figure. It’s highly poseable and worried the paint will rake off on joints when moving it around.
I'm a converted digital artist (self taught, non-professional) and am used to creating layered color gradients. Is it possible to create similar effects with water-based acrylic paint on a 3D surface, such as a plastic figure, without using an airbrush tool? To my inexperienced mind, the water content in the next thin paint layer combined with brush pressure would unintentionally remove too much of your prior coat. Watercolors obviously blend well but the paper retains a lot of the liquid. Would primer serve this role for water-based acrylics? Thanks for the opinion piece. I'll subscribe to see what other tips you have for us.
Thanks for the tips! If you're still taking questions, I have 2: Are first coats naturally uneven and unsmooth in texture, and can the fifth or sixth coat look good regardless of how the first looks, or would that be a sign that you needed to start over? And when painting silver, is a white basecoat standard?
All coats should be even and smooth. No different than painting a wall. Silver can go over white gray or black primer. How it looks after may carry with that primer undercoating being different. I usually do black primer with silver paint
Thank you so much for this!! I just want to paint some marvel legends shins/boots black. Do I need primer or just many coats of blk acrylic paint? Also, do I need to apply a sealant afterwards? Thanks again!!
Vallejo paints have two lines game color which are geared more toward fantasy lines with brighter vibrant colors and model color which are geared toward model kits and realistic wargameing (hince why most sets are grouped by uniform colors). But yeah the only difference is who they are primarily marketed to that being said most people mix and match
Another way of getting mold release out of the surface of plastic is to lay the figure under an ultra violet lamp for a few hours and allow the plastic to sweat out the mold release.
Thanks for the infornative vid!What brand and color do you recommend to paint on all white figure?Painting white sucks but has to be done. I would really appreciate your response.
i know this is old but can you use acetone to take off the factory finish? its the same method i use to customize sneakers. it helps the paint adhere to the shoe.
Hey! I'm really glad I found your video. But I have a question: what can I do when the action figures I want to paint are too small? They have a lot of tiny details that will disappear if I sand it. What primer do you recommend? I read somewhere that automotive primers should work on that type of glossy plastic surface, but I don't know. I hope you can answer, thanks! :)
Hey, how flexible are these paints? Which ones stay on the bendable parts of the figure best? I'm planning to paint a BAF kit I just got, and some of the parts on this thing are super bendy. I don't want anything flaking off after a few poses. I have the same question for clear top coats as well. Thanks in advance for the response.
Are you talking about the joints? They all need to be sanded down so that there’s no contact that can rub off paint. Then you paint it. If you’re talking about a bendy Figure then you’re going to have to mix the paint with something else to get it to adhere
Just subbed, Question: Have you taken apart a Mattel Secret Wars figure? I cant find info on how they are constructed and i don't have one in hand yet.. Will the Boil and Pop method work? Thx.
This is one of my favorite videos, very thorough in my opinion. I’m new to the painting my action figure scene. I recently painted my first action figure and it came out OK. But I have a question for you Kimota. What about if ur not painting the whole figure, but just adding accents and small details. Like the figure I painted, I was only adding small details to the overall figure, so my question is better asked as how do I do the primer if I’m not painting the whole figure?
No. You don’t need to primer the whole figure. But! But I would primer that section. They make brush on primers for small areas like that. Small little jars like other paint. Like Citadel calls theirs Imperial Primer. You just take a paint brush and cover that small section first. Then paint over it. Primer’s job is to make paint adhere better. I’d use it on any section I’m painting. It’s a good tool
What’s a good paint for the more flexible plastics. Like the plastics they use for the belts, bandoliers and such. I have had projects that no matter what paint I use they rather stay sticky or the paint just doesn’t dry or stick. Even after days of drying?
Yo bro trying to do a scarlet spider custom and not really sure which paint brand to get. Defiantly want my fig to have a matte finish but I also want to also cover up some of the paint that I wasn't able able to get off and that wont take that much coats to finish with. I also saw someone cover a figure in white and painted over it which looked pretty easy to paint over and not sure if I should do the same. The figure im trying to do this is on is the retro ben reilly spiderman which has a lightish blue on the arms down to the legs, and red from the torso to the head. Any tips help thank you🤠
How well do the citadel paints mix? cause I'm used to the apple barrel paints cause Im used to painting Lego Minifigs and for those you really don't need anything fancy and I just got into customizing marvel legends figures and I was painting a custom figure and it scrapped off so easily so I wanted to use something that's strong and could mix
What do you recommend for touching up figure paint? I got a knock off Mafex Spider-Man, and I've been able to find him to to a point I'm happy with, but noticed the paints been slowly chipping off. Any suggestions to match, paint, and make sure it doesn't keep chipping?
I was lucky I went to my local hobby lobby and The department head of the model section was very helpful in touch ups on my restore of vintage star wars figures. I would recommend you try these stores or similar in your area. For me testers and model color worked the best had to mix colors. It was hard and time consuming but I'm happy with the results.
Dude thank you so much for this video. I been trying to use craft smart paints with pathetic results. I thought I was doing something wrong. I guess I was. I was using garbage paint. Thank you Again for this video.
Tried to use alclad black primer on a 12" Mandalorian figure, first time airbrushing and wanted to use black clear then dark chrome on it. Anyway the primer dried on my airbrush before I could do any of that, along other paint accidents staining my furniture. This is a stupid question, but am I supposed to drain and clean the airbrush after every single light layer of paint to prevent clogging? That sounds like a ton of cleaning.
Is dupli color good for spraying on figure faces ? Or is it too thick? Also after I sand and prep a figure and give one coat of paint it's easily removable . Should I add 2 or 3 coats of paint?
I only ever paint my gundam model figures. I am really using tamiya everything. But they work great for me. I haven’t had any problems for anything yet.
I’d like to see a live video of you painting the New Endgame Captain America’s scale suit a shade lighter. How would you sand something like that and would you paint the over the whole part or paint each individual scale?
As a kid i painted my venom mac gargan with nail paints and it turned out pretty cool still @ this day it's color still hasn't rubbed off it's always good to try new techniques like you mentioned LMAO btw "craft smart" is the worst
Model master all the way. I tried tamiya and Vallejo and both flake off, only thing I use from tamiya is the thinner. Rit Dyes are also good to for base colors
I was having trouble seeing the Dupli-color can you held up. Does the can actual have the word "primer" on it? Would you kindly let me know the model number on the can so i can get/order that exact kind? So appreciated! What grade of sandpaper do you use when prepping a figure after you wash it?
This is very informative. Thank you, Im planning to repaint my marvel legends ironman mark 1 suit. Can I have a little advise? This is the first time I'm gonna paint a figure. Thank you
I only use Craftsmart/Applebarrel for touch ups on vinyl figures or mat surfaces but be careful this is only for touch ups and is prone to scrape off...
Hello, what type of paint would you recommend for painting pvc figures? I found a Digimon bank from my childhood and I'm trying to restore the color, it's 95% white and as it stands right now it's super muddy looking from whoever owned it before me. As far as I can tell it's pvc material with no finish. I would prefer to brush paint over spray paint if possible, I've been recommended posca pens and testors, but I hated the result I got from the small areas I painted :c
Any advice on white paint. I keep running into an immediate yellowing issue. I'm using Citadel and Model Masters (gloss). The gloss worked fine on a Venom I'm working on but on a cast head both the gloss (MM) & the flat Citadel yellowed quickly. Any advice?
Mega insightful I've never have done a custom paint job on a marvel legend but I'm gathering info as yours and the correct material to do it ., pardon my question but it is recommended to paint the figure parts by brushes or by airbrushing it. ??? Thank you. You just have gotten a new subscriber to your channel !
Fantastic video! I have so many follow up questions but for now i just have one that might sound dumb: what do you use to thin your paints, paint thinner?
@@KimotaCustoms thank you. I'll continue to look around for videos on pre-sanding, sculpting, dremeling, & other techniques. I haven't customized in many years & i am amazed how much guys like you & others have elevated the game.
I have a spin master harley quinn 12 inch figure that I want to turn into a game character, but I don't know if I should take her apart or if it's possible.
Right now I use apple barrel and it's good for figures that are made from scratch or with a good wooden artist mannequin but I'm trying to switch to citadel paints
Testors Model Master paints are #1!!! Hands down. I used them for almost 15 years and have been struggling with the other stuff in the last couple of years. I've tried Mission Paints. They apply relatively well but they're too thin and result typically in a matte or flat finish. They're meant for airbrushing and don't stick well for for play durability. Vallejo Paints were ok until my last attempt. The OP is right about it's thicker consistency. They take forever to dry. You have to wait about 30+ mins or even days between light coats drying. Hit or miss with Vallejo. My last attempt has sadly made me abandon the hobby. I don't know why Testors stopped but they were the best. It dried quickly and was durable. Model Master has the perfect viscosity and goes on nice and smooth. If they are still to be found, only get the red/white label. The white/blue label is garbage.
would you happen to know if the paints you recommend would work for a Banpresto figure? I looked through the comments and couldn't find anything on that brand and i dont know much on figure painting so I didn't want to assume one thing could work for another brand of figures
I personally would _REALLY_ like to see how to guides for wash, dry brush, & air brushing
Let me see what I can do
You all probably dont care at all but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Raphael Ali thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Raphael Ali it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Ronin Alden you are welcome :)
I LOVE how you included the tip on using a clear colored paint over a mettalic with Tamiya. One of my favorite techniques to use when painting figures.
I wish I did that on restoring 2 vintage Kenner C-3po figures to get the color back. Color was very close but not as shiny as what Kenner used in 1978 and 1982.
When I have been using acrylic paint for sculptures, for many years, the skin texture always looked choppy. But now that you gave me all the important info on making the skin texture look great. I like to thank you so much! Great info.
I appreciate your experience and going over each type of paint. Very helpful. The prep work you mention is also great! No one really talks about putting in the work but you nailed it. Thanks.
I for one would LOVE to see some live customization videos. I’ve been customizing MOTUC figures for five years but I don’t think my prep and technique is very good at all, so I’d be way in to seeing someone else do it.
I really appreciate your taking time to make this video. My #1 reason for my 10-year absense from customizing is that i didn't understand apex-level choices for supplies like paints & such. I only want to customize if i can make the figure look exactly the way i want it to. Thank you for giving me the tools i need to get over my concerns.
It’s really helping for changing mah bootleg to custom looking real figure
Me too bro
Fr you can make them look better shaded than figmas or even the expensive statues
This was very informative. I’ll definitely check out more videos and I’d love to see a video of a figure being customized.
This is really helpful, I really want to get into action figure customising
louis johnson good luck!
Me too! This is helpfull! Please make mpre tutorials
What pa9nt u use
I got into making action figures with paper and tape
I am planning on starting to customise figures. This has helped. Thanks!
Thank you very much for the informative video. Recently Walmart messed up an order & I ended up with three extra McFarlane DC multiverse figures. I look forward to attempting some of your techniques. Thanks for the help.
Thanks man , i needed help finding paint for a pair of black swim trunks for my figure .
New to your videos and I think they're awesome especially this one about types of 🎨.. Absolutely need more videos like this about more in-depth stuff.
I’ll see what I can do
I customize a lot of figures and I've always used paints like apple barrel, and i never liked how when you move the joints the paint comes off, i never sanded anything, this video really helped a lot, thanks
You’re welcome
Thanks for all the useful info! I am just fixing some face paint on my wwe figures. :3
Same I'm customizing a Jeff hardy
citadel is actually really good for a lot of different figurines. I use it a lot and imo works great.
what's imo?
imo, is short for in my opinion...
I've been painting figures off and on for a few years now and I've been using straight acrylic (the one on the far left) without watering it down and it always came out a little funny. I've only recently discovered I need to sand and wash them too, so I've got quite a bit to learn. Thanks a bunch for the help, hopefully this helps make my custom Combiner Wars piece come along better.
Wash them after sanding
What’s sanding
Sanding is the process of rubbing a coarse material, generally sandpaper or sanding sticks, across a surface. Generally this is done to scuff the surface, which allows the paint to stick better. However, it can also be done to remove a top coat, old paint, or even scratches and dents in some materials.
Have You ever painted Capes ?? Because everything is gravy w/ the _Sharpie_ paint pens I use. Even the cheap $1 Walmart paint pens are okay for touch up or A topper (Deco-color & Craftsman pens stay away). Anyhow it seems like anytime I paint A cape (even after sanding), it leads to paint rub back onto the figure. Not as much on the joints; Nothing compared to the paint rub I get on the Capes !!!
> This is the 3rd differnt cape I painted now & it seems like the problem presists across all toy lines w/ the cape(s). And the paint not sticking properly. ANY TIPS ????
What is washing
The classic East Coast tough-love paint tutorial with a satisfying level of detail, expertise, necessary bias and personal experience. Appreciated 🙂
You just touched my heart lol ❤️🤣
@@KimotaCustoms I figured you'd find it humorous if you were active still. Good news is you are!
I was looking for paint for some old AFs and your post popped. Thanks for the strong recommendations. #Subscribed
@@enicotinic thanks. Some of the more recent videos cover new paint types
@@KimotaCustoms Alright, thanks for the update. Probably saved me a little money as a result.
I wish I saw this video sooner!!!! I’m glad I’m only on my 2nd Action Figure. Thank you.
Thanks bro 🙏 I was about to start customizing figures with the store brand stuff until I came across this video. Really glad I did
Glad I could help
I usually just kitbash and then paint smaller ad on parts with craft paint and that works fine but lately I’ve trying to do more difficult customs that require an entirely new paint job so this was very helpful. I’m gonna get some p3 lol
I needed this video. I plan on doing some customs on transformers figures, but I haven't customized a figure in a long time because the paint was always way too textured. I hate seeing brushstrokes on customs. Nice knowing a bit more about paints to use because that was my biggest concern.
Glad to help
Great video, very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Apple Barrel paints and Arteza are my go to paints for action figures. Haven't let me down yet. Only reason i am moving towards Testors Acrylic is because i am running out of the other two. Am super satisfied with the results of my customs and statuettes that i've done. Can't wait to give these other a suggestions a try. Solid recommendations all around.
The Apple Barrels work way better than this guy says lol and good luck getting Testor's Acrylic. I've tried so hard looking for them and all I can ever find are their enamel paints. Tamiyas work really well too but you need to get a retarder for it and it requires alcohol as a thinner.
@@LitchAzazel The problem with Apple Barrel paints is that they do not have strong binding agents. They're completely water based. So if you try using these paints on resin pieces, PVC statues or action figures, you won't be able to play with them or touch them too much. Otherwise you'll be looking at paint flaking off. Like you can literally take your nail and scrape away Apple Barrel paints from non porous plastic surfaces. You can also wash away apple barrel paints quite easily in hot water. If you try and use Dullcote or any other solvent based protectors, it will activate and separate the barrel type paints and give a very ugly result.
Apple Barrel and Craftsmart type paints were made for use on paper, wood, foam boards, and such highly porous surfaces. Not smooth plastics.
I've first tried Apple Barrel years ago on my 1990s movie Donatello (tmnt) head sculpt, which I still have up on my vid section. I used a purple color for his bandana, because I was hoping to achieve a very convincing fabric finish (super matte finish) and I knew these types of paint dry very flat. It gave me a very nice finish and it looked like actual cotton fabric, next to his semi-gloss satin skin finish. Sadly... the paint just didn't hold up. I was able to scrape it off very easily and when I tried coating it with a protector (testor's dullcote), it cracked the paint up and it looked like a total mess.
I ended up opting with Tamiya (which I use almost exclusively on all my customs and sculpts) as well as Mr Color. Tamiya and Mr Color are acrylic but they have very strong binding agents. Mr Color is the stronger of the two and you can smell it. (smells horrible).
So if you're going to use Apple Barrel, then I'm assuming you understand you can't handle it too much after you're done. I like being able to handle my customs without the fear of flaking paint.
Great video and very helpful. I review figs and have been tempted to try customization. I had tried doing a black wash and it was a disaster because I didn't know what I was doing. Thanks again for your video.
You’re welcome
Thanks for the video. I have been re collecting and re carding the vintage Kenner star wars figures using the restore nation re card kits. I had good results with testers and model color. Had to mix some paints to get the right or close color. Because most were touch ups and repair I didn't water the paints down. No problems except one dis appointment was touching up a Luke Skywalker bespin outfit hair. I used the same paint I used on the Luke Skywalker from a new hope. Problem is maybe the paint wasn't cured enough or because I was moving it after it was sealed in the blister some paint rubbed of from the crown of Luke bespin hair. The model color paint grey I found was exactly like the color on tie fighter pilots boots and gloves. I used that grey on some repro weapons one success was on my Luke Skywalker in Jedi outfit. The repro weapons lot I got were slightly lighter grey than the original Kenner versions and Luke Jedi came with a jabbas palace blaster. All the colors from the lot were nothing like the original because I have another Jedi Luke I bought when I was a kid. I painted the blaster with the grey I used on tie fighter and I compared with the original it was the same. I think Kenner used the same colors on slot of figures and accessories back then. I used the same Gold on my 2 C-3po figures to paint the trim on bespin security guard and compared it to a mint on card original online and it looked great. The return of the Jedi figures were hard but I was able to touch up 8d8 and emporer figures. The torso on 8d8 is yellow and I don't want to do the hydrogen peroxide method because it has some nice pair areas. My only disappointment is the paint is a little flat I might need to put a clear coat? I had this problem when I made a vinyl Cape for Ben Kenobi. The repros in the market were not close in color with originals and to get originals were very expensive. I used 3:colors to get a 98% to the original cape. The downside the paint was cracking now after watching your video I see what my mistake was.
thank you, i didn't do any research and just threw the paint on my figure. after seeing this i went and bent the knees and the paint rubbed off lol.
where i live the most common type of acrilic you found is the one that comes in 50ml bottles, the label only says it is "decorative acrylic"...is it good for customs? i used it in some miniatures and it worked just fine
thank you. i hope you make a tutorial series about customizing figures.
paok s ill see what I can do
I use all of these with good results, except P3. I don't think they sell P3 in Ireland. The best and smoothest primer I have used to date, is actually a particular brand of automotive paint. A really thin coat of epoxy resin dulled down with anti-shine afterwards gives great protection against moving part paint abrasion. I sculpt, mold and cast figures and some have received heavy knocks with no effect because of the epoxy coatings.
Great video! Tons of great tips on what to do and not do. Very helpful on what types to choose from bc most people starting out have the same beginners problem. They're always unsure what types of paints to use and end up ruining their projects. Just try to stay away from the "um" in your speech. Not being funny or rude, just helps with presentation.
I really like tamiya primer. Granted its a pretty small can for the money but i really like how smoothe it lays down and how it dries quick and it seems to stick to anything. I used to do alot of hot wheels customs but have just recently got into gi joe classified figures and have wanted to do some custom cobra army figures so im trying to figure out what paint will work the best.
Thank you for explaining the differences between paints and primer. I really would like to see a life tutorial. I found some of my kids old action figures while cleaning out the basement and I was going to donate them but I thought why not try to customize them it will be a good project for my grandson and I since we both like art.
Going to attempt to make a Mr. Negative custom on the Everett Ross body. Any suggestions on painting the rubbery jacket? And do you know how to do pearlescents?
I’m very late but maybe do a cloth jacket
Vallejo is my absolute go-to for Legends
Hello, thanks for the video, it helped me a lot. Based on this video, I started using vallejo instead of testor enamel (you are right, it never dries). Right now the problem I am having is that everytime I touch a figure I paint, some pills off; I tried using army primer and the primer remains in place but the paint still falls off after a couple of times handleling the figure. I tried to use varnish from vallejo but doesn't keep the paint in place. Do you have any suggestions? Some people have told me to use clear glue or polyurethane but I dont know what brand to use and trying glue made one of my figures have cracks :( . Thank you in advance for your response
I've been stripping my figure paint with organic paint stripper. Also coating joints with Krazy glue or clear nail polish protects from paint rub.
This is very helpful. Regarding sanding. How thick / rough should I use? Is acrylic good for pvc?
I intend on customizing my McFarlane Doomslayer, although I intend on doing minor repainting on it, would you recommend me to use a Scotchbrite pad for the tiny details and a primer? If so, which primer?
Lol.. This is literally the same Fig i'm thinking about repainting. I was wondering same type thing. What's best way to remove stock paint on action figures??
Definitely post guides on here. This video just showed me a ton of mistakes just with paint I’ve been making. After applying you last acrylic layer should you put anything else on the last coat to help preserve it?
Yep. I use a variety of things. Testors dullcote is my go too. But it’s getting hard to find. People are using Mr. super clear now.
What do you recommend for prepping aside from sanding for a piece that has, like, more detailed sculpt on it than a smooth Legends blank body, like a belt piece, and don't want to lose any of that detail?
Look of 3M scotch-brite. They're a red color wool pad. Looks like a green scrub sponge for dishes. I paint airplanes and we use them for exactly what you're talking about. They make all kinds of grit just like sand paper. You're gonna want medium grit. Not too coarse but not too fine like a green dish sponge. Hope that helps
@@fluentinshittalk916 Thanks, I'll try it!
I have American diorama 1/18 scale resin figures that a would like to repaint/change the color on them but i don't know how to do it and what type of paint should i by for it? Can you guide me on that please?
And thank you.
Bro this was helpfuuuull
You have my thx
You’re welcome
Could you do a video on how to sand properly and ive been using a Dawn dish liquid soak for 2 minutes then scrub them few seconds with a bottle brush. I'd love to see what tools to sand with. I have a dremel but not sure what end to use for sanding I don't wanna grind down too far. Thank you. Really enjoy your vids.
Thank you, very helpful!
Thanks for the video 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾😊🎈
i wanted to paint 40th anniversary he-man's weapons. they are just grey plastic, i did it once with some leather paint i had, i didn't prep the weapon before hand so idk if it would have worked enough for the time. i picked up some 2 hard additive and figured i'll give it a try. i wasn't prepared for buying action figure customizing paints an stuff so could have just not got the 2 hard but i might need it later on. i'll pick up some of what you got going on.
Good video, be aware the Testors Model Master line has been discontinued, so grab up any of the acrylics in the line that you can find.
can spray paint work for the main body of a figure then paint it with matte acrylic paint afterwards or just uuse matte acrylic paint only
I’ve never used spray paint
Thanks for the information. I’m looking to repaint my Lanyard Queen Alien figure. It’s highly poseable and worried the paint will rake off on joints when moving it around.
Thank you SO MUCH !
Thank you for your tutorial ... Really helpful
You’re welcome
I'm a converted digital artist (self taught, non-professional) and am used to creating layered color gradients. Is it possible to create similar effects with water-based acrylic paint on a 3D surface, such as a plastic figure, without using an airbrush tool?
To my inexperienced mind, the water content in the next thin paint layer combined with brush pressure would unintentionally remove too much of your prior coat.
Watercolors obviously blend well but the paper retains a lot of the liquid. Would primer serve this role for water-based acrylics?
Thanks for the opinion piece. I'll subscribe to see what other tips you have for us.
Is there any specific soap you use to prep your figures before sanding & painting? Would you recommend dish soap or body soap?
Nope. Like dish soap
Thanks for the tips! If you're still taking questions, I have 2:
Are first coats naturally uneven and unsmooth in texture, and can the fifth or sixth coat look good regardless of how the first looks, or would that be a sign that you needed to start over?
And when painting silver, is a white basecoat standard?
All coats should be even and smooth. No different than painting a wall.
Silver can go over white gray or black primer. How it looks after may carry with that primer undercoating being different.
I usually do black primer with silver paint
@@KimotaCustoms thank you so much! I've been wondering about these things for literal years!
Thanks man I can finally repaint my optimus prime figure into nemesis prime
Found a fellow TF fan
Thank you so much for this!! I just want to paint some marvel legends shins/boots black. Do I need primer or just many coats of blk acrylic paint? Also, do I need to apply a sealant afterwards? Thanks again!!
Primer, multiple thin coats and sealer if you want to do it correctly.
Vallejo paints have two lines game color which are geared more toward fantasy lines with brighter vibrant colors and model color which are geared toward model kits and realistic wargameing (hince why most sets are grouped by uniform colors). But yeah the only difference is who they are primarily marketed to that being said most people mix and match
Another way of getting mold release out of the surface of plastic is to lay the figure under an ultra violet lamp for a few hours and allow the plastic to sweat out the mold release.
Thanks for the infornative vid!What brand and color do you recommend to paint on all white figure?Painting white sucks but has to be done. I would really appreciate your response.
I’d base coat it in light blue. Then Tamiya. Light layers building up. Or airbrush it on lightly
I have made the mistake on a couple of characters using testors enamel paint. Stickiness that won’t go away. Glad I found your video.
use enamel thinner and coat it after your done painting it so it wont be sticky.
I used enamel on my first attempt at a custom too, it was bad enough I never tried customizing again until very recently.
Same man! Giving it another go!
i know this is old but can you use acetone to take off the factory finish? its the same method i use to customize sneakers. it helps the paint adhere to the shoe.
I wouldn’t because it’ll eat at the plastic too
What brushes would you recommend?
Hey! I'm really glad I found your video. But I have a question: what can I do when the action figures I want to paint are too small? They have a lot of tiny details that will disappear if I sand it. What primer do you recommend? I read somewhere that automotive primers should work on that type of glossy plastic surface, but I don't know.
I hope you can answer, thanks! :)
Reading glasses or magnifying glass with a steady hand.
Don’t sand that area that hard.
Automotive primer is good.
I’ll have to do a video on primers
Hey, how flexible are these paints? Which ones stay on the bendable parts of the figure best? I'm planning to paint a BAF kit I just got, and some of the parts on this thing are super bendy. I don't want anything flaking off after a few poses. I have the same question for clear top coats as well.
Thanks in advance for the response.
Are you talking about the joints? They all need to be sanded down so that there’s no contact that can rub off paint. Then you paint it.
If you’re talking about a bendy Figure then you’re going to have to mix the paint with something else to get it to adhere
@@KimotaCustoms alright, thanks
Just subbed, Question: Have you taken apart a Mattel Secret Wars figure? I cant find info on how they are constructed and i don't have one in hand yet.. Will the Boil and Pop method work? Thx.
The Model Vault never tried.
Really enjoyed this vid. Are tamiya paints good for repainting GI joe(a real American hero figures)/Marvel Universe action figures?
Yes and yes
This is one of my favorite videos, very thorough in my opinion. I’m new to the painting my action figure scene. I recently painted my first action figure and it came out OK. But I have a question for you Kimota. What about if ur not painting the whole figure, but just adding accents and small details. Like the figure I painted, I was only adding small details to the overall figure, so my question is better asked as how do I do the primer if I’m not painting the whole figure?
No. You don’t need to primer the whole figure. But! But I would primer that section.
They make brush on primers for small areas like that. Small little jars like other paint. Like Citadel calls theirs Imperial Primer. You just take a paint brush and cover that small section first. Then paint over it.
Primer’s job is to make paint adhere better. I’d use it on any section I’m painting. It’s a good tool
What’s a good paint for the more flexible plastics. Like the plastics they use for the belts, bandoliers and such. I have had projects that no matter what paint I use they rather stay sticky or the paint just doesn’t dry or stick. Even after days of drying?
Probably going to have to mix in liquid latex with the paint for that
Yo bro trying to do a scarlet spider custom and not really sure which paint brand to get. Defiantly want my fig to have a matte finish but I also want to also cover up some of the paint that I wasn't able able to get off and that wont take that much coats to finish with. I also saw someone cover a figure in white and painted over it which looked pretty easy to paint over and not sure if I should do the same. The figure im trying to do this is on is the retro ben reilly spiderman which has a lightish blue on the arms down to the legs, and red from the torso to the head. Any tips help thank you🤠
How well do the citadel paints mix? cause I'm used to the apple barrel paints cause Im used to painting Lego Minifigs and for those you really don't need anything fancy and I just got into customizing marvel legends figures and I was painting a custom figure and it scrapped off so easily so I wanted to use something that's strong and could mix
They mix fine
What do you recommend for touching up figure paint? I got a knock off Mafex Spider-Man, and I've been able to find him to to a point I'm happy with, but noticed the paints been slowly chipping off. Any suggestions to match, paint, and make sure it doesn't keep chipping?
I was lucky I went to my local hobby lobby and The department head of the model section was very helpful in touch ups on my restore of vintage star wars figures. I would recommend you try these stores or similar in your area. For me testers and model color worked the best had to mix colors. It was hard and time consuming but I'm happy with the results.
Dude thank you so much for this video. I been trying to use craft smart paints with pathetic results. I thought I was doing something wrong. I guess I was. I was using garbage paint. Thank you Again for this video.
Glad I could help!
Tried to use alclad black primer on a 12" Mandalorian figure, first time airbrushing and wanted to use black clear then dark chrome on it.
Anyway the primer dried on my airbrush before I could do any of that, along other paint accidents staining my furniture.
This is a stupid question, but am I supposed to drain and clean the airbrush after every single light layer of paint to prevent clogging?
That sounds like a ton of cleaning.
Yeah you have to clean it often
Is dupli color good for spraying on figure faces ? Or is it too thick? Also after I sand and prep a figure and give one coat of paint it's easily removable . Should I add 2 or 3 coats of paint?
flap jack I think it’s too thick
I only ever paint my gundam model figures. I am really using tamiya everything. But they work great for me. I haven’t had any problems for anything yet.
I’d like to see a live video of you painting the New Endgame Captain America’s scale suit a shade lighter. How would you sand something like that and would you paint the over the whole part or paint each individual scale?
Maybe I’ll make it. I just picked it up
As a kid i painted my venom mac gargan with nail paints and it turned out pretty cool still @ this day it's color still hasn't rubbed off it's always good to try new techniques like you mentioned
LMAO btw "craft smart" is the worst
What brand do you recommend for hair and eyebrows on the 64/76 G.I. Joes
Model master all the way. I tried tamiya and Vallejo and both flake off, only thing I use from tamiya is the thinner. Rit Dyes are also good to for base colors
If I was to start painting in the future what brand of paint would you recommend to start with?
Formula P3
I was having trouble seeing the Dupli-color can you held up. Does the can actual have the word "primer" on it? Would you kindly let me know the model number on the can so i can get/order that exact kind? So appreciated! What grade of sandpaper do you use when prepping a figure after you wash it?
Can you do a video giving advice on painting transformers? Especially if you want to be able to transform them after you have painted them. Thanks
Nope sorry. I don’t do many of those any I usually do the larger non transforming ones
This is very informative. Thank you, Im planning to repaint my marvel legends ironman mark 1 suit. Can I have a little advise? This is the first time I'm gonna paint a figure. Thank you
Message me
I only use Craftsmart/Applebarrel for touch ups on vinyl figures or mat surfaces but be careful this is only for touch ups and is prone to scrape off...
Hello, what type of paint would you recommend for painting pvc figures? I found a Digimon bank from my childhood and I'm trying to restore the color, it's 95% white and as it stands right now it's super muddy looking from whoever owned it before me. As far as I can tell it's pvc material with no finish. I would prefer to brush paint over spray paint if possible, I've been recommended posca pens and testors, but I hated the result I got from the small areas I painted :c
I don’t know how each paint reacts with pvc plastic. So I’m not sure. Good luck
Any advice on white paint. I keep running into an immediate yellowing issue. I'm using Citadel and Model Masters (gloss). The gloss worked fine on a Venom I'm working on but on a cast head both the gloss (MM) & the flat Citadel yellowed quickly. Any advice?
Make sure you prime it in white. I use a light blue for the base sometimes snd then go white over it. Then seal it. The sealant protects the color
Mega insightful I've never have done a custom paint job on a marvel legend but I'm gathering info as yours and the correct material to do it ., pardon my question but it is recommended to paint the figure parts by brushes or by airbrushing it. ???
Thank you.
You just have gotten a new subscriber to your channel !
Either one works as long as it’s done right
Yes, more tutorials please
Citadel is the best and when you sand joints down like you said its great.
king570 Customs it’s my least favorite of the good brands
KimotaCustoms which is your favorite to use
king570 Customs formula p3
Yes please do some videos showing how you paint on plastic figures
Will do
Fantastic video! I have so many follow up questions but for now i just have one that might sound dumb: what do you use to thin your paints, paint thinner?
The one that I like best is made by Tamiya
@@KimotaCustoms thank you. I'll continue to look around for videos on pre-sanding, sculpting, dremeling, & other techniques. I haven't customized in many years & i am amazed how much guys like you & others have elevated the game.
I have a spin master harley quinn 12 inch figure that I want to turn into a game character, but I don't know if I should take her apart or if it's possible.
Oh i thought my results with apple barrel paint were good but the other ones are better? I need to check them out
Right now I use apple barrel and it's good for figures that are made from scratch or with a good wooden artist mannequin but I'm trying to switch to citadel paints
Quick question, when you say use soap and water to wash your figure? Do you mean like hand soap or dish soap?
Either. Just nothing abrasive
HEY KIMOTA! Is there something like dye that can be used on mostly white figures?
Rit Dye More works sometimes but with varying degrees of success
Good vid man. Quick question tho, for a blackwash, would one of those cheaper paints work out ok on it?
I wouldn’t use them for anything except foam dioramas
@@KimotaCustoms ok. Thnx.
good video bro
This helps because Testors are no longer making acrylic paints and that's what I've been using for 13 years. I'll have to try these other brands.
Same here! I haven't came across anything as great (other than it drying over time) but I'm trying Citadel.
Testors Model Master paints are #1!!! Hands down. I used them for almost 15 years and have been struggling with the other stuff in the last couple of years. I've tried Mission Paints. They apply relatively well but they're too thin and result typically in a matte or flat finish. They're meant for airbrushing and don't stick well for for play durability. Vallejo Paints were ok until my last attempt. The OP is right about it's thicker consistency. They take forever to dry. You have to wait about 30+ mins or even days between light coats drying. Hit or miss with Vallejo. My last attempt has sadly made me abandon the hobby. I don't know why Testors stopped but they were the best. It dried quickly and was durable. Model Master has the perfect viscosity and goes on nice and smooth. If they are still to be found, only get the red/white label. The white/blue label is garbage.
@@kassemlyles7234 Rustoleum owns them and discontinued the line. This really sucks because it pretty much stopped my hobby.
would you happen to know if the paints you recommend would work for a Banpresto figure? I looked through the comments and couldn't find anything on that brand and i dont know much on figure painting so I didn't want to assume one thing could work for another brand of figures
I don’t know what that is
@@KimotaCustoms it's a brand of figures. I have a total white one and a black one that I wanted to paint. ill look into it more then