Good video , glad you mentioned the positive will still be hot even when disconnected lots of people on here don't. Obvious to people who know cars but might catch the casual person out.
Helpful information thank you. For those that have 12v batteries in the trunk....it may take 20 mins or so to complete the process of swapping out the battery ...and some models of the 'jump starters' will turn off ...automatically... before your swap is completed. If this happens you have lost many of your cars settings(newer cars). So likely best to use as temp power source...either a model that does not auto switch off...or a real 12V power source.
Great video, have you tried using a jump and carry with jumper wire going to the battery pos lug of the under hood power distribution box? This seems to keep all the memories of the vehicle better than the dlc plug.
That would work, sure - but as Jacks Auto Repair shared, you still have to be careful with any of the exposed connections AND the loose positive battery cable end. With the DLC jumper, I only have to worry about the one.
U said any 12v power supply jump starter is safe for OBD2, but this thing can power up a dead batterý which means can deliver like minimum 300A right ? So u mean it's still safe to use for m. Saver / the computer ? Please advise bcoz i'm afraid that could damage the ecu
@@MotorAgeMagazine makes sense. I = V / R. Thx. I believe with the latest device like Autowit Supercap 2 could be used for memory saver through OBD2 port right ?
It's kinda ridiculous with the amount of technology we have today, automobile brands can't think of a way to prevent this. It should be able for all ECUs to have some kind of non volatile storage. I mean just for changing a battery we need a memory saver, and we need a tool to tell the vehicle we put a new battery. God forbid if we happen to have a CEL/EML. Then we need another tool. It's better to drive a bicycle.
On most cars today, the power outlet is fused and does not always connect directly to the battery. If it isn't "hot at all times", it won't work. Even then, I'd check the Power Distribution diagram before I relied on it.
Nothing wrong with using the cigarette lighter socket to achieve the same outcome plus it’s super easy and inexpensive to make up your own, but as Pete said, just check your specific car’s wiring schematic before relying on that particular method or test the socket with a DMM for 12V KO.
I have a 2013 audi s6 just purchased a solar memory saver with 12 volt power source built in.Manufactres instruction say don't use if amp draw is 4mps or higher.How do I stop vehicle from loading before using memory saver
Interesting question! I would see what the "at rest" current draw is the modules "awake". In other words, measure current flow after you've opened the car door or hood, with the key off. If that is under your 4 amp limit, I would think the memory saver should work for its designed purpose - changing the battery. HTH!
@@MotorAgeMagazine thanks, also at the same time when im changing the battery is it oki the Memory Saver(EZR S4000) to be in charger ? Or firdt to wait to charge the Memory Saver?
@@arlindveseli1152 The memory saver is used to keep the memories in the various control modules alive. The procedure is: install the memory saver in the DLC, remove the battery (remember, though, that the red battery cable will have voltage on it - don't let it touch ground!), install the battery, remove the memory saver.
is there a best device for saving memory like when swapping engine, transmission and where is the best place to get the best quality memory saver device
There are many possible solutions for you. I would shop around - Amazon has a lot of listings to compare. Your challenge is maintaining the correct voltage level for an extended period of time so the simple ones that connect to a shop battery probably won't meet your needs.
@@MotorAgeMagazine I agree wholeheartedly. I just see many techs that are unaware that memory savers can cause an issue when welding because they didn't read OEM info and they think that they have it covered if the battery is disconnected. I really enjoy these videos! Keep up the great work!!
The voltage is potential - nothing to fight against. Since the two are wired in parallel, it's no different than a two battery diesel set up. 12v, just extra amp capacity.
No, what I meant was when you're reinstalling the battery - connect it first (always positive cable connection followed by the negative cable connection) and then disconnect your alternate power supply/memory saver. HTH!
@@MotorAgeMagazine hello I was wondering so if your reinstalling the battery starting with the positive then negative would anything happen by having the memory saver still plugged in the DLC your advice is appreciated
The old 9v in the cigarette lighter won't work anymore for two reasons. One, the control modules do not share the same power feed as the "power outlet" does and two, the amount of drain would kill the 9v battery in short order.
@@superserial1 In the old days, maybe. But today, the only way to ensure that all of the modules are maintained is to go in through the DLC OR connect another battery in place of the old one WITHOUT allowing the power flow to be interrupted.
Good video , glad you mentioned the positive will still be hot even when disconnected lots of people on here don't. Obvious to people who know cars but might catch the casual person out.
Helpful information thank you.
For those that have 12v batteries in the trunk....it may take 20 mins or so to complete the process of swapping out the battery ...and some models of the 'jump starters' will turn off ...automatically... before your swap is completed. If this happens you have lost many of your cars settings(newer cars). So likely best to use as temp power source...either a model that does not auto switch off...or a real 12V power source.
Nice short informative video and to the point no BS.
Great advice. Appreciate your work.
Thanks 👍
Good Evening Pete Meier motor age
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Thanks Nick!
Great video, have you tried using a jump and carry with jumper wire going to the battery pos lug of the under hood power distribution box? This seems to keep all the memories of the vehicle better than the dlc plug.
That would work, sure - but as Jacks Auto Repair shared, you still have to be careful with any of the exposed connections AND the loose positive battery cable end. With the DLC jumper, I only have to worry about the one.
U said any 12v power supply jump starter is safe for OBD2, but this thing can power up a dead batterý which means can deliver like minimum 300A right ? So u mean it's still safe to use for m. Saver / the computer ? Please advise bcoz i'm afraid that could damage the ecu
Amperage is relative to the load - how much it needs. If not, the battery would be blowing up every device on the car.
@@MotorAgeMagazine makes sense. I = V / R. Thx. I believe with the latest device like Autowit Supercap 2 could be used for memory saver through OBD2 port right ?
Where can I buy a memory saver that connects to a twelve volt power supply
Great videos. Can i use a noco GB40 as the battery memory saver? Thanks, Tom.
Any good 12v power supply can be attached to the memory saver.
thank you
If all you are doing is replacing the battery just do it with the engine running. Take the same precautions with the battery connectors.
Will this work on a Jaguar xf 2015
This will not work on Volvo’s. it will blow a fuse (sorry, can’t remember what one). Every other manufacturer I’ve tried it has worked👍
Normaly have to make sure everything is switched off before disconecting the main battery or you will blow the dlc or pcm fuse. Usualy about 5amps.
It's kinda ridiculous with the amount of technology we have today, automobile brands can't think of a way to prevent this. It should be able for all ECUs to have some kind of non volatile storage. I mean just for changing a battery we need a memory saver, and we need a tool to tell the vehicle we put a new battery. God forbid if we happen to have a CEL/EML. Then we need another tool. It's better to drive a bicycle.
Agree. "technology" today has gotten totally out of control - it's actually controlling US.
thanks 4 sharing/sharing!!!!!!!godbless/godspeed !..---.../be perpared
VERY NICE! i was wondering about the + cable being hot still.. what about a plug for the cigarett/12V supply port that is hot at all times?
On most cars today, the power outlet is fused and does not always connect directly to the battery. If it isn't "hot at all times", it won't work. Even then, I'd check the Power Distribution diagram before I relied on it.
Nothing wrong with using the cigarette lighter socket to achieve the same outcome plus it’s super easy and inexpensive to make up your own, but as Pete said, just check your specific car’s wiring schematic before relying on that particular method or test the socket with a DMM for 12V KO.
I have a 2013 audi s6 just purchased a solar memory saver with 12 volt power source built in.Manufactres instruction say don't use if amp draw is 4mps or higher.How do I stop vehicle from loading before using memory saver
Interesting question! I would see what the "at rest" current draw is the modules "awake". In other words, measure current flow after you've opened the car door or hood, with the key off. If that is under your 4 amp limit, I would think the memory saver should work for its designed purpose - changing the battery. HTH!
Ive seen lots of guys change batterys without a saver... Then they wonder why it wont run right afterwards....
Can I use my BOB and connect pin4 and pin5 together to negative battery and pin 16 to positive battery?
I've never tried that. I would ask the manufacturer of your tool.
Hi, to install the new battery do you put first Pozitiv and second negative?
Yes. Negative first on removal, last on install
@@MotorAgeMagazine thanks, also at the same time when im changing the battery is it oki the Memory Saver(EZR S4000) to be in charger ? Or firdt to wait to charge the Memory Saver?
@@arlindveseli1152 The memory saver is used to keep the memories in the various control modules alive. The procedure is: install the memory saver in the DLC, remove the battery (remember, though, that the red battery cable will have voltage on it - don't let it touch ground!), install the battery, remove the memory saver.
is there a best device for saving memory like when swapping engine, transmission and where is the best place to get the best quality memory saver device
There are many possible solutions for you. I would shop around - Amazon has a lot of listings to compare. Your challenge is maintaining the correct voltage level for an extended period of time so the simple ones that connect to a shop battery probably won't meet your needs.
Do you see issues if a collision shop / body shop were to weld on a car while a battery saver is being used?
Yes...collision repair, or any welding, should follow the OEM processes for safeguarding the electronics
@@MotorAgeMagazine I agree wholeheartedly. I just see many techs that are unaware that memory savers can cause an issue when welding because they didn't read OEM info and they think that they have it covered if the battery is disconnected. I really enjoy these videos! Keep up the great work!!
Is there a blocking diode in that ODB port? How is the Car battery +12v not fighting the external +12v supply you are hooking up into the ODB port?
The voltage is potential - nothing to fight against. Since the two are wired in parallel, it's no different than a two battery diesel set up. 12v, just extra amp capacity.
So doing it in reverse means connecting the positive cable then the negative?
No, what I meant was when you're reinstalling the battery - connect it first (always positive cable connection followed by the negative cable connection) and then disconnect your alternate power supply/memory saver. HTH!
@@MotorAgeMagazine hello I was wondering so if your reinstalling the battery starting with the positive then negative would anything happen by having the memory saver still plugged in the DLC your advice is appreciated
@@Franksinatra96 No, you leave the memory saver connected until the new battery has been installed and reconnected to the vehicle.
Why not use a 9v battery?
The old 9v in the cigarette lighter won't work anymore for two reasons. One, the control modules do not share the same power feed as the "power outlet" does and two, the amount of drain would kill the 9v battery in short order.
@@MotorAgeMagazine
I bought a 9 volt battery car memory saver that is supposed to be rated for 4 hours. Maybe not though. I dunno.
@@superserial1 In the old days, maybe. But today, the only way to ensure that all of the modules are maintained is to go in through the DLC OR connect another battery in place of the old one WITHOUT allowing the power flow to be interrupted.
@@MotorAgeMagazine where can I find one like you are using?
@@rcthomas6925 I have one now from Autel that I really like. You can find others at www.aeswave.com