Thanks bigtb, your videos are always informative and entertaining. The ONLY reason keeping me from getting the ET 200ip is the fan. I don't think I can live with that high pitch fan noise
I just checked the price on the ES 180 Pro, which I bought years ago, and it is actually cheaper than it was when I bought it. My price was 5999 NOK, and today it is out for 5499 NOK, so 500 cheaper today, and inflation included it is even cheaper than that! (1USD=10,34NOK)
I wish it was cheaper. I would love to get it and really I only need it for home projects but I don't want to spend half the money on a cheap machine that will not last. I've been watching all your videos and I can't make a decision lol.
Everlast welders are definitely a step above many of the cheap "brands" on Amazon/etc. Some of their machines are a good value. Eventually I'd like to try some others. But keep in mind, the 200STI doesn't have power factor correction or as good of built quality as the ESAB. Still likely a good option. Honestly, we're spoiled for choice these days. Lots of good options out there. Cheers!
The Klutch isn't half the price, but it is cheaper. Normally $400-$450-ish range for the Klutch, vs. $550-ish for this ESAB. But the Klutch is a pretty full-featured TIG welder as well that includes TIG torch, regulator, and even a foot pedal. Great deal, indeed.
It just occurred to me you might be talking about a different Klutch machine than the ST201iDV that I looked at a while back. My last reply was about the Klutch welder I reviewed.
Nice review, and nice welder. Just out of curiosity (I don't know if I've asked this on a different video or not), but which brand of E6010's do you use for testing? The reason I ask is because I've notice a *lot* of variation in how they run/perform from different brands (on the same machine). I've tried Lincoln 5P+, 6P+, Böhler, Hyweld, Blue Demon, Best Welds, Hobart, Anchor, and soon to try out Mundaka. Some E6010s I've noticed run more like an E6011 (not quite as aggressive of an arc, a wee-bit softer, but still "cellulosic"), and others run much, much more aggressive and really scoop out the base metal with how deep they dig! Anyways, if you feel so inclined to test out another top-notch lunch-box inverter welder, you can check out one of my personal favorites, the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV. This machine is made "overseas", but I've read that it is made by the same factory/manufacturer that produces [some] machines for one of the name-brands. This is the electrical spec sticker: drive.google.com/file/d/1dWH1SGNFvkgoN-F_vtMqG_JVVa441ZFN/view?usp=drive_link, and as you can see, it has a nice duty cycle and can run most E6010 electrodes. Cheers!
I've considered getting an HTP in the past, but never pulled the trigger. For testing, I use Lincoln 5P+. The one shop near me has a lot of ESAB rods and I thought about trying their 6010s, but I haven't been in the area of that shop for a while.
@@bigtb1717 I'd like to try Esab E6010s, but I just haven't ran into any good online deals, and nobody local carries their rods. But yea, 5P+ is IMO the "gold standard" for E6010s. They light up easy (require the least amount of amperage), fast, and are more forgiving on machines that aren't truly optimized to run E6010s.
I would love the htp, as I'm pretty sure it will pulse on stick, but the deal breaker is it's not PFC. HTP even warns that it's not for use with extension cords.
. The HTP 160 does not have pulse, only the 200TLP had pulse (from the dedicated stick welders). Ive used mine on extension cords (10 gauge conductors) and it has worked fine. What the 160 does not like is generators.
@zod-engineering-welding thanks. It's been awhile since I looked at HTP, I couldn't remember if it was gens or extension cords they warned against. Sad that they didn't include pulse on the 160.
I have the 180i and got it pre Covid. i love it.
Thanks bigtb, your videos are always informative and entertaining. The ONLY reason keeping me from getting the ET 200ip is the fan. I don't think I can live with that high pitch fan noise
Yeah, it's not quite as easy to mentally tune out as some others.
Nice review, thanks for showing us what it can do. Those were some decent beads you laid down 😁.
Another great review! Looking forward to more.
Thanks. Looking forward to making more.
I just checked the price on the ES 180 Pro, which I bought years ago, and it is actually cheaper than it was when I bought it. My price was 5999 NOK, and today it is out for 5499 NOK, so 500 cheaper today, and inflation included it is even cheaper than that! (1USD=10,34NOK)
It’s amazing that it can run 6010!
The welding it’s self is the best you won’t find a better stick for this price hands down
I bought a toolium stick welder. It does what i need it do. I think it was like $90
Perfect timing, thanks
I wish it was cheaper. I would love to get it and really I only need it for home projects but I don't want to spend half the money on a cheap machine that will not last. I've been watching all your videos and I can't make a decision lol.
Are you in the US?
@@bigtb1717 yes I am
If you want, send me an email at "I messed up my own email" - edited to reflect reality and not potentially have a link to a non-existent website.
@@bigtb1717 ok I will. Thank you
@@bigtb1717 what's the email address?
Everlast Powerarc 200sti would be a good contender for this. And costs less.
Everlast welders are definitely a step above many of the cheap "brands" on Amazon/etc. Some of their machines are a good value. Eventually I'd like to try some others.
But keep in mind, the 200STI doesn't have power factor correction or as good of built quality as the ESAB. Still likely a good option.
Honestly, we're spoiled for choice these days. Lots of good options out there. Cheers!
This is a nice machine but the price is a deal breaker for me. I would prefer the klutch 201 over this one for nearly half of the price..
The Klutch is a better value for the money. Although not a brand name
The Klutch isn't half the price, but it is cheaper. Normally $400-$450-ish range for the Klutch, vs. $550-ish for this ESAB. But the Klutch is a pretty full-featured TIG welder as well that includes TIG torch, regulator, and even a foot pedal. Great deal, indeed.
It just occurred to me you might be talking about a different Klutch machine than the ST201iDV that I looked at a while back. My last reply was about the Klutch welder I reviewed.
@@bigtb1717 Yea thats the one I meant. Im aware the price is close to the 500 dollars range.. Yea the one you reviewed while back..
We have those welders at my job they are ok but I think they are over priced for what you get I would not buy one because of that
Interesting. I appreciate the input.
Nice review, and nice welder. Just out of curiosity (I don't know if I've asked this on a different video or not), but which brand of E6010's do you use for testing? The reason I ask is because I've notice a *lot* of variation in how they run/perform from different brands (on the same machine). I've tried Lincoln 5P+, 6P+, Böhler, Hyweld, Blue Demon, Best Welds, Hobart, Anchor, and soon to try out Mundaka. Some E6010s I've noticed run more like an E6011 (not quite as aggressive of an arc, a wee-bit softer, but still "cellulosic"), and others run much, much more aggressive and really scoop out the base metal with how deep they dig! Anyways, if you feel so inclined to test out another top-notch lunch-box inverter welder, you can check out one of my personal favorites, the HTP Inverarc 160 Plus DV. This machine is made "overseas", but I've read that it is made by the same factory/manufacturer that produces [some] machines for one of the name-brands. This is the electrical spec sticker: drive.google.com/file/d/1dWH1SGNFvkgoN-F_vtMqG_JVVa441ZFN/view?usp=drive_link, and as you can see, it has a nice duty cycle and can run most E6010 electrodes. Cheers!
I've considered getting an HTP in the past, but never pulled the trigger. For testing, I use Lincoln 5P+. The one shop near me has a lot of ESAB rods and I thought about trying their 6010s, but I haven't been in the area of that shop for a while.
@@bigtb1717 I'd like to try Esab E6010s, but I just haven't ran into any good online deals, and nobody local carries their rods. But yea, 5P+ is IMO the "gold standard" for E6010s. They light up easy (require the least amount of amperage), fast, and are more forgiving on machines that aren't truly optimized to run E6010s.
I would love the htp, as I'm pretty sure it will pulse on stick, but the deal breaker is it's not PFC. HTP even warns that it's not for use with extension cords.
. The HTP 160 does not have pulse, only the 200TLP had pulse (from the dedicated stick welders). Ive used mine on extension cords (10 gauge conductors) and it has worked fine. What the 160 does not like is generators.
@zod-engineering-welding thanks. It's been awhile since I looked at HTP, I couldn't remember if it was gens or extension cords they warned against. Sad that they didn't include pulse on the 160.