For the Topdon tool used in the video: www.topdon.us/discount/DIAGNO... the price of Phoenix Max will be 10% OFF by clicking the US link European contact: oscar@topdon.com Uk : www.diagnosticconnections.co.uk/topdon-trucks-lorry-van-vehicle-diagnostic-tools Link for the Autel km100 key tool: US: www.amazon.com/dp/B0B31C95GX UK: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B4R86SLT DE: www.amazon.de/dp/B0B4QVH8ZH FR: www.amazon.fr/dp/B0B4QVH8ZH
@@lewiskelly14 who cares ... this guy should be milionare,,, from his videos milions of people have saved milions of money solving easy stuff when some mecanics just go and swap parts until they solve it or until u guet enought and go to another place...this guy is a genius,,,he is a automoville god ....
or actually using an ohm-meter instead of continuity. A test light is still too low of an amperage to show any big thermal resistance changes in bad connections. 7:11 he shows the reason why I use ohms when voltage seems to be "floating". Whenever I see voltage going somewhere but there is no real power, or amperage, "no power" situation, then I just disconnect the voltage and check the resistance, or you could just see that when the engine is on there is still below nominal on the connector, as the ABS loads the circuit down. There are of course exteremely marginal cases where some hot spots and thermal expansion can make the results unreliable, but I rarely ever had to use a test light, as it's "too" dumb. Also, don't think I'm calling Dan dumb, no, his methods are right, just not the ONLY correct way. Still I watch him to learn some interesting faults :)
@@Garth2011 yes, and by using a test light to check such voltage lines (for example powering a hall sensor) you risk overloading them and destroying your ECU. Most have protections in place, but it's still a risk.
@@aa-kv2pq get a few different ones with different load currents. ~50mA, ~500mA, ~2A. So you can choose the correct one according to the circuit you're testing (similar to the typical load on that circuit). A test light is such a simple device, there is really no good or bad.
Wow Dan, excellent example of the importance of voltage testing under load! DVOM would definitely get someone in trouble 😅 Neat Autel key programmer too!
Wow Dan thanks for another great video I'm a junior tech in Africa and I gotta say I've learnt so much from your channel and hope to learn more keep up the good work man
I had a similar issue with my Golf IV, i.e., MK4. The alternator stopped working because it did not receive the control voltage it needed because the fuse box had some corrosion. I got stranded with a flat battery. It took weeks to figure out what was the issue and I ended up replacing the alternator in the process even though that was not the issue. I didn't have a test light but thanks to Dan, I do now :)
Dan, I own a 2000 VW bug 1.8t with the same style fuse block and I so appreciate your testing explanation. The chats that i have followed say the fuse block on top of the battery is prone to corrosion issues, and this VW has proven that a brass brush and some battery terminal cleaner and protectant will be my best friend as my bug gets older.
Yes I had the same issue, just the fuse block burned out on 2 of the fuses, so I went for the cheaper alternative of 2 inline fuse holders and crimped them into place, then used a ring to provide power to them. As VW on this one integrates half the loom into the fuse holder, a lot cheaper than the buy a new one alternative.
dan, you caught the automotive electrical lesson of the year by showing the loaded circuit and what it does with a voltmeter on video. i've seen rookies and experts bit by this and caught myself a few times. it all goes back to the basics and understanding how your test can affect a circuit AND how your circuit will affect the test. its got to be complete volta amps ohms to be a verifyable test. kudos !!!
Congratulations on the result! Once again you made a car owner happy! The rule of checking with the control lamp or a consumer, I learned it from you from several episodes! Good luck!
Another excellent video Dan, Power & Grounds, sounds simple but a lot of mechanics only test with a meter, missing some important indicators, done it again Dan well done.
I really appreciate your videos Dan, you really know what you are doing. Now, regarding that Autel programmer, you where lucky. I am a locksmith and I have a bunch of stories about Autel bricking Nissan cars while programming keys.
Great video. Testing with a test light is such a small thing to overlook. They can save you hours and also save your mood. The longer you take to diagnose something, the greater the chance of your ego getting involved in the process. I.E. "I know I'm doing this test right." Then frustration enters and then it becomes a whole big thing. I'm sad to say, I speak from experience on that one. Thanks for another great video.
Love it, the simple test light defeats the fluke dvom. When was in school(20 years ago) the instructors would drill you to use a meter, "don't use a test light". I always had the habit of using both just for some redundancy in my testing. Love the video.
Good video- so many guys like to use the multimeter or one of those beeping testers- A test light is so much easier and more reliable- you only need to find a good ground and then probe with the light - the multi meters don't have clamps on the probes so you need to hold both wires and then try find a place where you can set the display to read it.
great troubleshooting, Dan! I remember back in my late 20's when I was taking a refrigeration/major appliance repair course, and one of the things they taught us in the refrigeration course was to check electrical components like relays before just putting freon into the system, which was common in Oklahoma! Great videos sir!
Thanks Dan! That's actually a super simple tip but a golden nugget! Even with 6 years experience and knowing all this, I'm pretty sure I'd have fallen for that mistake too and this was a good reminder! 👍
This man deserves 10m+ views per video. He always takes the time to explain how he finds the problem, how he's sure it's the problem and even goes out of his way to fix it the right way when others would have just tightened the screw or added a jumper wire. I am a technician and I can say for a fact new parts are not always good nor is something better just because it's newer. Proper diagnostics is assessing the knowns, x checking for basics and cutting the circuit in half until you find the problem or contributing factor. Seriously I can't stress it enough I'd watch any tutorial this channel is putting out- no matter what the topic. 👍👍 Second - to - NONE.
@@Diagnosedan you could triple what you charge and still be underpaid. I have no doubt your pricing is fair, but don't settle or cheat yourself. Whatever you put your time into will scale 10-100x with ease. Thanks again for all your effort.
Not only do I enjoy your expertise Dan but your accent seems so like home here in West Michigan. Indeed, I worked with many Hollanders in the Tool and Die division at General Motors. But before that, I was and still am auto/truck technician. I consider you as a neighbor. Thank you for helping me become a better diagnostician, even into my late sixties.
Hey Dan I became very addicted to your videos and the knowledge passed on is sensational, and very thoroughly explained, please don't stop making them. Thank you very much
Unbelievable the information that you give out when diagnosing these problems, not only fixing them, but showing the right way to use the diagnostic tools.
Thanks Dan,even though testing powers and grounds seems easy task,but appears to be tricky.I love the way you checked for power around that bolt and appears to be half space powered, this teach as how corrosion could affect integrity of the circuit in strange way.fantastic investigation.
Best part of the entire video is the funny bits at the end,not taking away the utmost respect for the entirety of the tutorial, well done Dan, as ever, legendary work, keep up this groundbreaking pioneering field that many fear to tread. 🙂😇🥰
Rule one of fault finding, check you primary power source. I will now add to my mantra, test the primary power source UNDER load! Thanks Dan, you did it again 👍
Amazing work, for real. The way you have been diagnosing all the cars in your videos has inspired me to change the way I work on cars. Thank you for sharing your great skills and knowledges
Hi Dan, sounds like you might be struggling a little bit for air in this video. Maybe it's time Diagnose Dan had a wee checkup and Diagnosis himself? I am sure it's nothing but no harm in getting checked. We need you around for many years to come so you can continue to make great videos!
Nice find Dan, also I have a km100 and use it for factory keys, which it also does very well. haven’t had an opportunity to try the universal keys yet. I have heard from other techs that they are quality and last, I also agree that the ones I received with my km100 feel very high quality upon initial impressions.
@@Diagnosedan nothing specific, just limited use on very late models, just like any aftermarket tool. I am a dealer tech so that affects me more than most. I haven’t had it fail on anything that it shows in the menu, I believe autel lists available functions per model on its website somewhere in case you need to look it up before offering a service to a customer.
I was introduced to your videos yesterday by a diagnostic friend who subscribes to you. He does this day in, day out and tries to teach me stuff. I am the kind of learner that learns by absorbing detailed information and there are so many videos out there where they talk jargon and do not really fully show what they are doing. I feel like I have learned such a lot from this video. The first one I watched was the Using Ohm's Law as I have an issue with a P0672 fault and also a P2135 fault on a Smart ForFour W454. I learned surprisingly that these two may be linked. I have yet to test and confirm. This video is just so affirming where you reaffirm every time that the lamp lights or the multimeter doesn't and then you connect the two. Although I have a test lamp, I generally use a DMM because I didn't fully understand how to properly confirm powers and grounds. Now I believe I do! At least I hope I do. The only issue for me now is getting to grips with these modern type wiring diagrams. It's easy to zone out with them and go round in circles when you're an amateur. Looking forward to watching many more of your videos irrespective of whether they are relevant or not. Working on the other half's car next with an fan relay issue P0493 and P0952 on the telematics. A garage had said that the telematics one needed a new £1100+ head unit but I am not so sure and there was a similar issue with the ABS where the unit was swapped out for a second hand one prior to my other half's ownership. Whatever happened it rectified it but leaves me wondering it was actually a similar issue. EDIT: Having read a fair amount of comments, I have concerns about whether a test lamp should be used on 5V circuits? One commentator notes test lights with different ratings 50mA, 500mA and 2A? I've not checked yet whether you have a video specific to test lamps but, if not, could you perhaps expand on this please. I don't want to go probing fuse boxes and blow anything. I guess that clamp onto negative and probing any fuse is safe but clamping onto positive, then only probe grounds and NOT touch the probe on a fuse and accidentally power a circuit that might not be 12V - is that what these commentators mean when they say you can blow circuits? If so, that should be fairly easy to remember! Thanks in advance.
Hey Dan, one thing to keep in mind when adding a key to Nissan, is always programming the original key first then the aftermarket regardless of brand. The reason is that some will lock the original key and can't use it again so you will be stuck with one key again until you renew the original and program them back in again.
This just solved a problem I have been dealing with for months. Mine was a loose fuse that I pressed in and the ABS and brake lights disappeared from the cluster. Thank you!
Dan that circuit test is the perfect explanation of voltage testing, and loading the circuit to test. This is why i have home made test lights with different bulbs to test many circuits with bulbs of different draws. My testlight is digital so it does not load the circuit. I made my test bulbs with "banana jack" ends so i can use them with all my electrical diagnostics kit. Awsome videos and thank you again for posting these case studies.
I didn't doubt you were going to fix it again Dan. 35 years ago, British Rail had a small resistor in resin with 4mm pins spaced that they would fit in a new multimeter and you could plug your test leads into that. About the size of a third of your little finger. I've still got some and use them. It was to put a very small load on the reading as they were changing from analogue to digital meters and things were all 'over the shop' reading wise with the digital meters, until somebody came up with the very simple idea.
Hi Dan, The Volt measurement with the multimeter works fine. You have to make sure the circuit is loaded. You do this by leaving the plugs connected and performing the volt measurement by means of a back probe measurement. This is how we explain it to our students at school (Graafschap College). The way you show (test light) is of course also possible. It is true that you are now going to switch from measuring to unloaded, plug on plug off. Voltmeter to test light and vice versa. Do you have experience, no problem, if you don't, it can be confusing. KISS method: leave all connectors in place. Back probe where you want to measure. Do this with a Volt meter against ground. Correct supply 12v, correct ground 0v. Furthermore, you make great interesting videos, use them regularly in my classes! Keep it up! Regards Thomas
I used to fix copiers and printers and one thing my boss told me all the time was "think low tech before you think high tech". And this video brilliantly shows us why that is.
Dan, good evening from Germany. As ever, another master class in diagnostics. Brilliant. You may not upload lots of videos but they are gold standard every time. Thanks 👌👌
I was critical of your previous ohms/continuity video Dan but this one gets a thumbs up for showing how not to rely on volts as proof of circuit integrity but to always load the circuit too, a nice example of voltage drop on a unloaded then loaded circuit 👍🏻. There is a set of test leads I’m sure your aware of that load the circuit with the push of a button ( load pro for those who aren’t aware). Ultimately this comes down to understanding ohms law & understanding how a meter works & it’s limitations.
Rookie error by previous garage as this is a very common issue across VAG range . Another great video dan and well explained but I feel this was an easy one for a man of your caliber!
I have just realized that I am stupid. Have ordered a test lamp (similar to yours) But it was a problem to find one with a light bulb, most of the ones I found were with LED lights, they should have +- not just reverse the battery poles, but it went well in the end. I also had to use my brain. You're damn good, it's fun to see you work and think, you're a professional, I'm a hobby amateur. 👌 From Sweden
Thanks Dan - people think I'm crazy because I've got a few diagnostic systems, a couple of nice multimeters, and my favourite testing tool is an old side repeater bulb and holder from a scrap car - this is why 😁
Great video!!! I remember at Bosch school a few decades back they set us up with something like this. Always handy to have a test light that has a load. A great learning experience to any one who deal with electrics!
I had similar problem on a older model of nissan patrol. Friend of mine called me to take a look on his car because he had a problem with first start in the morning, especially during winter time. Conclusion was that the glow plugs are bad. Tested with multimeter, everything seemed ok, but the car wouldn't start. Checked the continuity, glow plugs, wires, both of the batteries and relay. After a whole day wasted, the last thing i wanted to try was to change the positive wire that goes from the relay to the glow plugs. Changed the wire, and it was all ok. Later checked the old wire with multimeter and multimeter said it was ok, but under the load it wouldn't deliver the power. It is important to mention that I am an electrician in construction and not for vehicles. This was the first experience with this kind of work and problems of this sort. If I had seen Dan's videos, it wouldn't have taken the whole day, only 15 minutes. Thanks Dan.
You're looking and sounding good - in the current world situation that's a relief. As a now retired electronics technician, I had fun with the ABS troubleshooting, and you reinforced something I learned years ago, where i was living near the ocean and saw lots of bad power connections and grounds. Not so much now as we're 1200+ miles inland these last 30 years.
Yes, I really enjoyed this video, to answer your question! SMA introduced me to this puzzle solving of electrical issues in cars, and I love the intrigue. For me, the bloopers at the end of the videos don't flick my switch, but I seem to be in a minority. I'd much prefer to see proper mistakes made on the job, not in the making of a video 😋 Mistakes are not negative eh. Thank you for your efforts 😊
Simple problem but they make it complicated. Nice one sir, you've explain clearly and simple. Easy to understand. More videos to come and more power to your channel.
Great diagnosis I can't believe that this fix can be hard for some technicians You have to be careful people out there from being paying more money because of bad diagnosis
Great display of it showing voltage, but dropping with a load. This demonstrates why it's important not to touch anything without testing it all first. These are always the weird one's that fix themselves when you wiggle too many things around, and then you never find the issue and it comes back again later. Great video!
Excellent video Dan. I don't have a test light like the one used on this video. However, what I do to substitute is that I use a light bulb from a side marker that draws quarter amp. When reading voltages, you can connect in parallel an incandescent bulb with your multimeter. This method insures you are loding circuits being tested. Test and keep in mind how much current you are drawing with your set-up ahead of testing circuits. Thank you Dan, Love your videos.
Your videos are always illuminating to be sure... The test light was truly edifying, I am a diy - I have been having a trying time with a bmw E53 with the EHC, after changing the air bags and the two sensors - the fault code was being stored in the head unit and transmitting to the read out. It did keep me out of the pub and off the streets for a while. Good onya
i fix mobility scooters for a job and i went to one that didn't work and i checked it with a multimeter and come to the conclusion the module wasn't working so i sent it off to have checked for them to send back with no fault found, then it came to me Diagnose Dan with is test light and sure enough within 10 minutes i found a bad connection, so now i have test lights in my van in my tool box and even at home, as for you're video Dan excellent video again thank you
Great video Dan, the most basic diagnosis rule should be after confirming the fault, is to check your power & ground feeds... The funn6 thing is, at 11:20, RUclips played a Nissan Qashqai ad...🤣
Excellent tip regarding the test light, I would probably have got bitten by that joint. Might have been a good idea to put a castellated washer under that nut
When the technician picked up the vehicle he told me he tested the powers using a testlight. I'm thinking he might have used the wrong and tested the wrong wires
Yes, the old voltage conundrum... I once had a side repeater on a Citroen van wing that showed voltage, and the wires all looked fine but the feed wire had a cut to the insulation, allowing corrosion and the wire had burnt to one strand, and the one strand was itself turning black. This one actually lit the test light and was very confusing for a while. Logic won the day. The voltage read ok but the test light was slightly dimmer than normal. Both together highlighted the issue - a volt drop on load.
Really impressive methodical, well explained troubleshooting. Always. Learned about a test light and load from this. Great camera work, not shaking around, handheld, giving me motion sickness. Great video output direct from tools, not a phone video of a scan tool screen. Subscribed and notified from the USA. Please publish you list of tools and ones you use in each vid, along with affiliate links for USA please.
@@Diagnosedan the other tell tale sign should have been the other circuits on that fuse block also being inoperative due to the corrosion. Poor design in my opinion.
Mr splinter !!! Of diagnosis!!!! Thank you for making me what I am today !!!! Without your videos idk if I ever woulda have fix the tons of **** I’ve fixed !
Hi Dan This is a known problem on most Volkswagen, that they have problems, with that fusebox, often the big fuse is blown. But back to the Nissan, you forgot to tell about the key cut, if the owner loses his original key, he don't have the key cut in emergency.
For the Topdon tool used in the video:
www.topdon.us/discount/DIAGNO... the price of Phoenix Max will be 10% OFF by clicking the US link
European contact: oscar@topdon.com
Uk :
www.diagnosticconnections.co.uk/topdon-trucks-lorry-van-vehicle-diagnostic-tools
Link for the Autel km100 key tool:
US: www.amazon.com/dp/B0B31C95GX
UK: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B4R86SLT
DE: www.amazon.de/dp/B0B4QVH8ZH
FR: www.amazon.fr/dp/B0B4QVH8ZH
How much did they pay you for this advert?
@@lewiskelly14what kind of question is this?
@@baroutes A fair one
Thanks for sharing Dan, really great case study👍
Stay Safe Bro👍
@@lewiskelly14 who cares ... this guy should be milionare,,, from his videos milions of people have saved milions of money solving easy stuff when some mecanics just go and swap parts until they solve it or until u guet enought and go to another place...this guy is a genius,,,he is a automoville god ....
A brilliant example of why a test light is so important
Yes and in some cases, a home made head light 4 amp load test light.
or actually using an ohm-meter instead of continuity. A test light is still too low of an amperage to show any big thermal resistance changes in bad connections.
7:11 he shows the reason why I use ohms when voltage seems to be "floating". Whenever I see voltage going somewhere but there is no real power, or amperage, "no power" situation, then I just disconnect the voltage and check the resistance, or you could just see that when the engine is on there is still below nominal on the connector, as the ABS loads the circuit down. There are of course exteremely marginal cases where some hot spots and thermal expansion can make the results unreliable, but I rarely ever had to use a test light, as it's "too" dumb.
Also, don't think I'm calling Dan dumb, no, his methods are right, just not the ONLY correct way. Still I watch him to learn some interesting faults :)
@@tomclanys That would depend on the circuit amp draw. Most of those computer nodes/modules etc work with 5 volts and very little amperage.
No pun intended? (brilliant/light)🙂
@@Garth2011 yes, and by using a test light to check such voltage lines (for example powering a hall sensor) you risk overloading them and destroying your ECU. Most have protections in place, but it's still a risk.
A perfect example of VOLTAGE DOES NOT EQUAL CURRENT. Well done DD!
Exactly! Some people dont see that relation!
@@Diagnosedan can you recommend a good test light please
@@aa-kv2pq get a few different ones with different load currents. ~50mA, ~500mA, ~2A. So you can choose the correct one according to the circuit you're testing (similar to the typical load on that circuit).
A test light is such a simple device, there is really no good or bad.
Nothing better than fixing a car that came from multiple shops.
Great work Dan!
You can say do the job right the first time
One of the few channels where I'll watch a video all the way through - always something to learn from you, Dan! Great video 👍🏽👍🏽
Thats great to hear! Thank you!!!!
Wow Dan, excellent example of the importance of voltage testing under load! DVOM would definitely get someone in trouble 😅
Neat Autel key programmer too!
Wow surprised to see you here Ivan, you don’t need to watch Dan you already know everything 😂 but glad that you support another great tech!!
Thank Ivan, we both know how important testing under load is, but there are still alot of techs out there not getting the message!
Your the man Ivan ! love your channel as much as Dan’s
you need to buy a loadpro Ivan.
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic I would never actually waste my money on anything so useless...doesn't even make a reliable wheel chock LOL!
Wow Dan thanks for another great video I'm a junior tech in Africa and I gotta say I've learnt so much from your channel and hope to learn more keep up the good work man
@DiagnoseDan I think we have someone pretending to be you
Thats great to hear!
I had a similar issue with my Golf IV, i.e., MK4. The alternator stopped working because it did not receive the control voltage it needed because the fuse box had some corrosion. I got stranded with a flat battery. It took weeks to figure out what was the issue and I ended up replacing the alternator in the process even though that was not the issue. I didn't have a test light but thanks to Dan, I do now :)
At least you have a new alternator you dont need to worry about anymore🤣
I love this underated channel for people that wanna use their brains to fix problems and save time and money
Thanks for your kind comment
Dan, I own a 2000 VW bug 1.8t with the same style fuse block and I so appreciate your testing explanation. The chats that i have followed say the fuse block on top of the battery is prone to corrosion issues, and this VW has proven that a brass brush and some battery terminal cleaner and protectant will be my best friend as my bug gets older.
Yes I had the same issue, just the fuse block burned out on 2 of the fuses, so I went for the cheaper alternative of 2 inline fuse holders and crimped them into place, then used a ring to provide power to them. As VW on this one integrates half the loom into the fuse holder, a lot cheaper than the buy a new one alternative.
Yes the Beatle has a similar setup
dan, you caught the automotive electrical lesson of the year by showing the loaded circuit and what it does with a voltmeter on video. i've seen rookies and experts bit by this and caught myself a few times. it all goes back to the basics and understanding how your test can affect a circuit AND how your circuit will affect the test. its got to be complete volta amps ohms to be a verifyable test. kudos !!!
Congratulations on the result! Once again you made a car owner happy! The rule of checking with the control lamp or a consumer, I learned it from you from several episodes! Good luck!
Thanks! Yes the workshop was happy and i guess so will the owner👍
@@Diagnosedan I look forward to a case with an Egr problem on any car in the VAG range 1.6 or 2.0 Tdi Euro 5 engines!!!
Another excellent video Dan, Power & Grounds, sounds simple but a lot of mechanics only test with a meter, missing some important indicators, done it again Dan well done.
Thanks David!
I really appreciate your videos Dan, you really know what you are doing. Now, regarding that Autel programmer, you where lucky. I am a locksmith and I have a bunch of stories about Autel bricking Nissan cars while programming keys.
Thanks for the feedback, i'll be careful and do some more research before using it again!
Whooa when bro wiggled that fuse holder, WIZARD!!
Great video. Testing with a test light is such a small thing to overlook. They can save you hours and also save your mood. The longer you take to diagnose something, the greater the chance of your ego getting involved in the process. I.E. "I know I'm doing this test right." Then frustration enters and then it becomes a whole big thing. I'm sad to say, I speak from experience on that one. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for watching! Testing with a test light isn't only the best way but also the most simple!
Love it, the simple test light defeats the fluke dvom. When was in school(20 years ago) the instructors would drill you to use a meter, "don't use a test light". I always had the habit of using both just for some redundancy in my testing. Love the video.
Good video- so many guys like to use the multimeter or one of those beeping testers- A test light is so much easier and more reliable- you only need to find a good ground and then probe with the light - the multi meters don't have clamps on the probes so you need to hold both wires and then try find a place where you can set the display to read it.
The issue is they (myself inclusive) are scared of frying something when used wrongly. So it's important to know how NOT to use it.
Testlight is fast and easy!
great troubleshooting, Dan! I remember back in my late 20's when I was taking a refrigeration/major appliance repair course, and one of the things they taught us in the refrigeration course was to check electrical components like relays before just putting freon into the system, which was common in Oklahoma! Great videos sir!
Thanks Dan! That's actually a super simple tip but a golden nugget! Even with 6 years experience and knowing all this, I'm pretty sure I'd have fallen for that mistake too and this was a good reminder! 👍
Hopefully the video was helpful!
This man deserves 10m+ views per video. He always takes the time to explain how he finds the problem, how he's sure it's the problem and even goes out of his way to fix it the right way when others would have just tightened the screw or added a jumper wire. I am a technician and I can say for a fact new parts are not always good nor is something better just because it's newer. Proper diagnostics is assessing the knowns, x checking for basics and cutting the circuit in half until you find the problem or contributing factor. Seriously I can't stress it enough I'd watch any tutorial this channel is putting out- no matter what the topic. 👍👍
Second - to - NONE.
Wow Joshua thanks for your kind comment its really appreciated and makes me want to continue making more videos!
@@Diagnosedan you could triple what you charge and still be underpaid. I have no doubt your pricing is fair, but don't settle or cheat yourself. Whatever you put your time into will scale 10-100x with ease. Thanks again for all your effort.
I love your videos. You make it all very clear and explain so well. Great point about using a test lamp.
Thanks! Glad you liked it!
Not only do I enjoy your expertise Dan but your accent seems so like home here in West Michigan. Indeed, I worked with many Hollanders in the Tool and Die division at General Motors. But before that, I was and still am auto/truck technician. I consider you as a neighbor. Thank you for helping me become a better diagnostician, even into my late sixties.
Hey Dan I became very addicted to your videos and the knowledge passed on is sensational, and very thoroughly explained, please don't stop making them. Thank you very much
Wow, thank you
these kind of comments are the reason i'm uploading video's.
I'm glad i could help and i really appreciate your comment!
Unbelievable the information that you give out when diagnosing these problems, not only fixing them, but showing the right way to use the diagnostic tools.
Thanks Dan,even though testing powers and grounds seems easy task,but appears to be tricky.I love the way you checked for power around that bolt and appears to be half space powered, this teach as how corrosion could affect integrity of the circuit in strange way.fantastic investigation.
Basic but still relevant!
Best part of the entire video is the funny bits at the end,not taking away the utmost respect for the entirety of the tutorial, well done Dan, as ever, legendary work, keep up this groundbreaking pioneering field that many fear to tread. 🙂😇🥰
Another great video, Dan. Practical, useful and your explanations as to why you're doing what you're doing are outstanding. Best RUclips Channel.
Wow that's a great compliment! Thank you
Rule one of fault finding, check you primary power source. I will now add to my mantra, test the primary power source UNDER load! Thanks Dan, you did it again 👍
Simple and cheap old testlight for the win😉
Amazing work, for real. The way you have been diagnosing all the cars in your videos has inspired me to change the way I work on cars.
Thank you for sharing your great skills and knowledges
Thanks for the great comment!
Wow, I've never thought of the load that the lamp applies to the circuit being so important. Thank you for this lesson!
Hi Dan, sounds like you might be struggling a little bit for air in this video. Maybe it's time Diagnose Dan had a wee checkup and Diagnosis himself? I am sure it's nothing but no harm in getting checked. We need you around for many years to come so you can continue to make great videos!
You are right.....i'm really getting out of shape.......and out of Breath 🤣
Nice video and diagnosis. Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostic would be so proud of you for the no parts required fix. 😂
😁👍
Ivans trademark.......
Nice find Dan, also I have a km100 and use it for factory keys, which it also does very well. haven’t had an opportunity to try the universal keys yet. I have heard from other techs that they are quality and last, I also agree that the ones I received with my km100 feel very high quality upon initial impressions.
Thanks for the feedback! Are there any downsides to the tool?
@@Diagnosedan nothing specific, just limited use on very late models, just like any aftermarket tool. I am a dealer tech so that affects me more than most. I haven’t had it fail on anything that it shows in the menu, I believe autel lists available functions per model on its website somewhere in case you need to look it up before offering a service to a customer.
I was introduced to your videos yesterday by a diagnostic friend who subscribes to you. He does this day in, day out and tries to teach me stuff.
I am the kind of learner that learns by absorbing detailed information and there are so many videos out there where they talk jargon and do not really fully show what they are doing.
I feel like I have learned such a lot from this video. The first one I watched was the Using Ohm's Law as I have an issue with a P0672 fault and also a P2135 fault on a Smart ForFour W454. I learned surprisingly that these two may be linked. I have yet to test and confirm.
This video is just so affirming where you reaffirm every time that the lamp lights or the multimeter doesn't and then you connect the two. Although I have a test lamp, I generally use a DMM because I didn't fully understand how to properly confirm powers and grounds. Now I believe I do! At least I hope I do.
The only issue for me now is getting to grips with these modern type wiring diagrams. It's easy to zone out with them and go round in circles when you're an amateur.
Looking forward to watching many more of your videos irrespective of whether they are relevant or not.
Working on the other half's car next with an fan relay issue P0493 and P0952 on the telematics. A garage had said that the telematics one needed a new £1100+ head unit but I am not so sure and there was a similar issue with the ABS where the unit was swapped out for a second hand one prior to my other half's ownership. Whatever happened it rectified it but leaves me wondering it was actually a similar issue.
EDIT:
Having read a fair amount of comments, I have concerns about whether a test lamp should be used on 5V circuits? One commentator notes test lights with different ratings 50mA, 500mA and 2A?
I've not checked yet whether you have a video specific to test lamps but, if not, could you perhaps expand on this please. I don't want to go probing fuse boxes and blow anything. I guess that clamp onto negative and probing any fuse is safe but clamping onto positive, then only probe grounds and NOT touch the probe on a fuse and accidentally power a circuit that might not be 12V - is that what these commentators mean when they say you can blow circuits? If so, that should be fairly easy to remember! Thanks in advance.
Hey Dan, one thing to keep in mind when adding a key to Nissan, is always programming the original key first then the aftermarket regardless of brand. The reason is that some will lock the original key and can't use it again so you will be stuck with one key again until you renew the original and program them back in again.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@Diagnosedan you're welcome. Thanks for all your videos, very educative. 👍
This just solved a problem I have been dealing with for months. Mine was a loose fuse that I pressed in and the ABS and brake lights disappeared from the cluster. Thank you!
Always enjoy your videos. Wish there were more of them. 🙂
There are more🤣🤣
Such a great fault finding tip in using the the test light to load the circuit, cheers Dan for another cracking video.
And thank you for your comment Gareth!
Dan that circuit test is the perfect explanation of voltage testing, and loading the circuit to test. This is why i have home made test lights with different bulbs to test many circuits with bulbs of different draws. My testlight is digital so it does not load the circuit. I made my test bulbs with "banana jack" ends so i can use them with all my electrical diagnostics kit. Awsome videos and thank you again for posting these case studies.
I didn't doubt you were going to fix it again Dan.
35 years ago, British Rail had a small resistor in resin with 4mm pins spaced that they would fit in a new multimeter and you could plug your test leads into that. About the size of a third of your little finger. I've still got some and use them.
It was to put a very small load on the reading as they were changing from analogue to digital meters and things were all 'over the shop' reading wise with the digital meters, until somebody came up with the very simple idea.
Sounds like a loadpro.....😁
Hi Dan,
The Volt measurement with the multimeter works fine. You have to make sure the circuit is loaded. You do this by leaving the plugs connected and performing the volt measurement by means of a back probe measurement. This is how we explain it to our students at school (Graafschap College). The way you show (test light) is of course also possible. It is true that you are now going to switch from measuring to unloaded, plug on plug off. Voltmeter to test light and vice versa. Do you have experience, no problem, if you don't, it can be confusing. KISS method: leave all connectors in place. Back probe where you want to measure. Do this with a Volt meter against ground. Correct supply 12v, correct ground 0v. Furthermore, you make great interesting videos, use them regularly in my classes! Keep it up! Regards Thomas
Dan, you are a wonderful gift to the automobile family
Just got burned by a DVM, three weeks ago. I really need to learn my lesson. Way to go, Dan!
A test light works simple and reliable every time!😁
I used to fix copiers and printers and one thing my boss told me all the time was "think low tech before you think high tech".
And this video brilliantly shows us why that is.
He was absolutely right, i always tell my technicians "don't overcomplicate things"!
The importance of using the right tools. I had the same issue with a Peugeot 308cc which came from another shop where they changed lot of parts.
At least you know what parts are not causing the fault🤣🤣
Dan, good evening from Germany. As ever, another master class in diagnostics. Brilliant. You may not upload lots of videos but they are gold standard every time. Thanks 👌👌
Danke! Its really appreciated. I dont get alot of viewers from Germany, i think because my channel is in English.
I was critical of your previous ohms/continuity video Dan but this one gets a thumbs up for showing how not to rely on volts as proof of circuit integrity but to always load the circuit too, a nice example of voltage drop on a unloaded then loaded circuit 👍🏻. There is a set of test leads I’m sure your aware of that load the circuit with the push of a button ( load pro for those who aren’t aware). Ultimately this comes down to understanding ohms law & understanding how a meter works & it’s limitations.
Thanks for your comment its really appreciated
Rookie error by previous garage as this is a very common issue across VAG range .
Another great video dan and well explained but I feel this was an easy one for a man of your caliber!
I have just realized that I am stupid.
Have ordered a test lamp (similar to yours)
But it was a problem to find one with a light bulb, most of the ones I found were with LED lights, they should have +- not just reverse the battery poles, but it went well in the end. I also had to use my brain.
You're damn good, it's fun to see you work and think, you're a professional, I'm a hobby amateur.
👌
From Sweden
Thanks Dan - people think I'm crazy because I've got a few diagnostic systems, a couple of nice multimeters, and my favourite testing tool is an old side repeater bulb and holder from a scrap car - this is why 😁
As always, amazing Dan performs a thorough analysis and finds a cheap resolution.
It is what it is😁
Under LOAD! Very important aspect! That is a great pointer! Thank you!
Your videos deserves two thumb ups.
Moshitoa (south Africa
Great video!!! I remember at Bosch school a few decades back they set us up with something like this. Always handy to have a test light that has a load. A great learning experience to any one who deal with electrics!
Simple and effective 😉
You are the best who is working with electric faults on cars👍👍👍👍
I've not even watched this but excited when I got the notification. Left it uncleared until now just to make sure I watch.
Thanks for your diagnosis
🤣🤣🤣👍
I had similar problem on a older model of nissan patrol. Friend of mine called me to take a look on his car because he had a problem with first start in the morning, especially during winter time. Conclusion was that the glow plugs are bad. Tested with multimeter, everything seemed ok, but the car wouldn't start. Checked the continuity, glow plugs, wires, both of the batteries and relay. After a whole day wasted, the last thing i wanted to try was to change the positive wire that goes from the relay to the glow plugs. Changed the wire, and it was all ok. Later checked the old wire with multimeter and multimeter said it was ok, but under the load it wouldn't deliver the power.
It is important to mention that I am an electrician in construction and not for vehicles. This was the first experience with this kind of work and problems of this sort.
If I had seen Dan's videos, it wouldn't have taken the whole day, only 15 minutes.
Thanks Dan.
As always Dan, he is an expert at fixing these things!!
You're looking and sounding good - in the current world situation that's a relief. As a now retired electronics technician, I had fun with the ABS troubleshooting, and you reinforced something I learned years ago, where i was living near the ocean and saw lots of bad power connections and grounds. Not so much now as we're 1200+ miles inland these last 30 years.
Thanks for the great comment its appriciated 👍
Yes, I really enjoyed this video, to answer your question! SMA introduced me to this puzzle solving of electrical issues in cars, and I love the intrigue.
For me, the bloopers at the end of the videos don't flick my switch, but I seem to be in a minority. I'd much prefer to see proper mistakes made on the job, not in the making of a video 😋 Mistakes are not negative eh.
Thank you for your efforts 😊
Excellent video and really well documented. I have an abs issue and I also assumed faulty module, this is something I’ve not yet tried.
It's ridiculous that the other shop wasn't able to hunt the culprit down. How silly, but luckily we got Dan. Good Job Dan. Great as always.
We did it together 😉
@@Diagnosedan Of course buddy.
By the way, how full is your shop in the moment for an appointment?
Simple problem but they make it complicated. Nice one sir, you've explain clearly and simple. Easy to understand. More videos to come and more power to your channel.
Thank you very much
Great diagnosis
I can't believe that this fix can be hard for some technicians
You have to be careful people out there from being paying more money because of bad diagnosis
I agree, it was very basic. But unfortunately some shops still miss it🫣
@DiagnoseDan bro i love how you respond to our comments
You are a super good man
Yep, the best channel for auto repairs. Very very profi
Hats off mr. Dan, the hardest repairs are the simple ones
Thats a big compliment! Thank you!
I learned something there. Brillant demonstration of the importance of using a test light.
Great display of it showing voltage, but dropping with a load. This demonstrates why it's important not to touch anything without testing it all first. These are always the weird one's that fix themselves when you wiggle too many things around, and then you never find the issue and it comes back again later. Great video!
Yes indeed, i was also lucky to catch it on video. Before you know it all is working fine again!
Probably one of the best videos on this subject.
I believe it’s called a Rogue Sport in some markets as the regular Rogue is a bigger SUV. Thanks for the great video!
Fixed so many faults others couldn’t using my incandescent test light. Got to load that circuit 👍 love your videos Dan.
Testlight is my favorite tool😁
Excellent video Dan. I don't have a test light like the one used on this video. However, what I do to substitute is that I use a light bulb from a side marker that draws quarter amp. When reading voltages, you can connect in parallel an incandescent bulb with your multimeter.
This method insures you are loding circuits being tested. Test and keep in mind how much current you are drawing with your set-up ahead of testing circuits.
Thank you Dan, Love your videos.
I also use different bulbs for different circuits, pointless to use a 70mA testlight on a starter moter circuit.
Thanks for your comment Dan.
Great job Dan. Mechanics should be checking the fuses, battery terminals first. What an waste of money getting another ABS unit by the previous shop.
You are right!
Great diagnostic procedures, got an A3 in now with similar fault. Thanks Dan
I’m learning new things every film you make! Good work Dan!
Thats so great to hear. Its good to hear the videos are helpful!
Awesome example of multimeter v test lamp, excellent work Dan, thanks👍👍👍😊😊😊
Thank you very much!
Your videos are always illuminating to be sure... The test light was truly edifying, I am a diy - I have been having a trying time with a bmw E53 with the EHC, after changing the air bags and the two sensors - the fault code was being stored in the head unit and transmitting to the read out. It did keep me out of the pub and off the streets for a while. Good onya
Hmmm🤔 Out of the pub?🍺...🤣
Wow the difference between the test light and voltmeter was eye opening. Lesson learned
I never failed to be impressed Dan, keep up the good work!
Thats a great compliment Sir! Thank you!
It seems most electrical problems on cars are physical faults caused by vibration,heat,and corrosion.
Great videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you very much for watching
i fix mobility scooters for a job and i went to one that didn't work and i checked it with a multimeter and come to the conclusion the module wasn't working so i sent it off to have checked for them to send back with no fault found, then it came to me Diagnose Dan with is test light and sure enough within 10 minutes i found a bad connection, so now i have test lights in my van in my tool box and even at home, as for you're video Dan excellent video again thank you
Lesson learned, you will never forget 😉
Great video Dan, the most basic diagnosis rule should be after confirming the fault, is to check your power & ground feeds... The funn6 thing is, at 11:20, RUclips played a Nissan Qashqai ad...🤣
I’ve learned so much from your videos Dan.
More than I have learned from any other channel.
Thanks great!
Wow. That was so simply explained and demonstrated. Even I could understand it. Great job, and thanks, Dan.
🤣🤣thanks!
Excellent video on how abs module is faulty due to a current supply problem
Everybody needs a Dantool, u r the king!!! Thank u so very much for ur lessons 👌👌👌
🤣🤣👍
Excellent tip regarding the test light, I would probably have got bitten by that joint. Might have been a good idea to put a castellated washer under that nut
Awesome, Dan!
To quote ScannerDanner: "Don't be a parts changer!" 💪🏻👍🏻👏🏻
😁👍
Good job, shotty workmanship on the last person there.
When the technician picked up the vehicle he told me he tested the powers using a testlight. I'm thinking he might have used the wrong and tested the wrong wires
Yes, the old voltage conundrum... I once had a side repeater on a Citroen van wing that showed voltage, and the wires all looked fine but the feed wire had a cut to the insulation, allowing corrosion and the wire had burnt to one strand, and the one strand was itself turning black. This one actually lit the test light and was very confusing for a while. Logic won the day. The voltage read ok but the test light was slightly dimmer than normal. Both together highlighted the issue - a volt drop on load.
Really impressive methodical, well explained troubleshooting. Always. Learned about a test light and load from this. Great camera work, not shaking around, handheld, giving me motion sickness. Great video output direct from tools, not a phone video of a scan tool screen. Subscribed and notified from the USA. Please publish you list of tools and ones you use in each vid, along with affiliate links for USA please.
Great job. It shows that to test circuits properly, they need to be loaded. I had my suspicions on the fuse block from the start.
Always test powers and grounds under load💪
@@Diagnosedan the other tell tale sign should have been the other circuits on that fuse block also being inoperative due to the corrosion. Poor design in my opinion.
Thank you! I would have never thought of the advantage of using a test light! I appreciate your wisdom.👌🏾
I would LOVE it if that was my issue with a 2003 MK4 Jetta 1.8T. We'll see. Great Video!!!
Mr splinter !!! Of diagnosis!!!! Thank you for making me what I am today !!!! Without your videos idk if I ever woulda have fix the tons of **** I’ve fixed !
Wow that's great!!
DiagnoseDan the expert in car diagnostics 💪💪💪
Thank you for sharing
😁👍
Well done Dan,very informative. I have eps light on no stop start...I'm gonna investigate this weekend
Us Diagnose Dan fans got two vids for one! Nice job as always.
🤣🤣 2 for the same price Glen aint that a great deal?
Good lesson on using the right tool for measuring power and grounds!
Exactly, good old simple testlight!
Hi Dan
This is a known problem on most Volkswagen, that they have problems, with that fusebox, often the big fuse is blown.
But back to the Nissan, you forgot to tell about the key cut, if the owner loses his original key, he don't have the key cut in emergency.
I didn't forget to tell, i just dont have a cutting machine 😁