Just wanted to say thanks to you and your wife taking the time to show how it’s done. I never thought I could work on my own vehicles until I started watching your channel. Times are tight and you’ve saved our family hundreds of dollars helping regular guys like me fix it myself. I really appreciate it. Thanks again, Matt-Iowa
sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow lost the login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
Thanks for the video. I did 1 valve cover gasket over 30years ago, I knew we didn't use a Torque spanner just a socket set. I have to do a Holden 202 engine old girl and starting worrying about torque. You have helped reassure my confidence to do it the way I was shown with a socket set. Much appreciated, Melbourne Australia.
Nice to see one done. I may have to do this one day to mine. I would have soaked the valve cover in solvent or degreaser before re-installing it though.
Don't know about that. Bought my Yukon brand new in 2005, Head gasket blew at 60k then the differential went at 62k, then the muffler, steering column (2x), blend actuator, rear heat component, Air Ride Suspension Compressor (never ever towed anything) all before 120k. Now at 148k I have coolant loss somewhere (hoping it is the intake manifold gasket, not the another head gasket) My wife's Toyota went 282k with only a water pump ever failing.
I love your videos. Your last GM video identified 3 problems that I was having, the sheared off bolts on the exhaust, the service engine light due to the leaky intake manifold and the abs and brake lights on. I’ve repaired all myself and now have a truck that has 275,000 miles and runs like it’s brand new. PS, you were also right about the p430 code, I replaced my cats and when I cut them off, one was real bad and the other was only slightly screwed up. I’m sure I fried them driving the vehicle with a lean code for 2 years.
Given that the ignition coils are mounted on top of the value covers; I would be reluctant to subject it to spray from the car wash. I enjoy your videos. Thanks
Twice my check engine light came on for the same problem in a span of eight months. Took it to dealership first time back in February or so, they couldn't find problem told me oil residue was on plug changed it out that was that. Week ago light comes on for second time so I get code myself with help of bro's reader. Cylinder 1 misfire. Changed out all the plugs now engine light off and running smoothly. Now I've learned that replacing the valve cover gasket is the actual solution to solving my engine problem. Thanks a bunch! -'13 Silverado 5.3
The back bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger-side coil-pack bracket is very difficult to get to. I used a 10mm bent-neck, closed-end wrench and a small tapping hammer to loosen it and remove. ( i noticed you didn't film that part of the repair job. :) Some other mechanics say to use a long socket wrench with a wobbler and deep well 10mm socket, but i couldn't get it on the bolt because of the proximity of the firewall. Of course, when working with these smaller bolts and nuts, having a strong magnet retrieval tool is imperative to be able to finish the job because you'll always have at least one slip from your fingers.
I’m kind of shocked you didn’t replace the grommets. They are the #1 reason for valve cover leaks with this setup. Very similar to Honda valve covers the grommets are the only thing applying pressure to the valve cover to seal it. The grommet rubber over time will compress and not apply clamping pressure to the gasket causing the leak. So by not replacing the grommets you will likely get another leak from the valve cover gasket. I’ve done hundreds of these and once I learned this I stopped getting reworks. The grommets are a pain to replace, they must be cut off because the rubber is really hard. The new grommets need to been heated up to make them flexible enough to push over the stud.
@@Bzapp725 💯 need to replace the grommets, cut out of the old ones, warm up the new ones with a heat gun and lube them up with oil and they push in fairly easy.
I appreciate the straight talk at the end. If you're a home mechanic working on one car, sure- take the time to torque to spec. But for regular service shops, bust out the torque wrench when necessary.
Only time I've ever needed to torque something to spec was when I did my rod and crank bearings. Oh. And my wheels. I always torque them to spec. Other than that Its by feel.
I noticed some comments about replacing the four top rubber grommets that fit on those long bolts. The idea is to create even pressure with the new soft rubber grommets putting even pressure on the valve cover gasket. Some mechanics are more careful about screwing them down evenly and can have good luck. Equal pressure on all four bolts is the idea.
It's a smart idea. If you don't clean it, and it starts leaking again, it's more difficult to find where it's leaking from. Also, if it's left dirty, it's hard to tell if the leak is fixed.
I like watching you do this. But 47 years ago, I found out that I do not have the talent to do DIY auto repair. I still have the tools & rollaway. You know how to work on various brands, make and models. With labor rates ~ $100 an hour at dealerships, finding a good independent installer is hard to find.
Well I never have got around to owning one but it sure would be nice to have one of those basins with a brush and a hose that washes off all that nastiness with solvent so the part can be surgically clean before it goes back on. I think trying to wash that at the car wash with all that stuff in the way tucked into the engine would prettymuch suck.
Good information but if I paid to have valve cover gaskets done and it came back from the shop with oily valve covers I would have a hard time giving that shop my money again. A couple minutes with some spray cleaner while it was off would go a long ways towards customer satisfaction in the work done.
Hey wizard, love the Neon story. I worked at a Subaru dealership in the early 00s. We’d have 3-4 engines or at a time for leaking head gaskets and it was a similar procedure. No machine shops or measuring, just scrape off the old gasket, slap a new one in there and reassemble. If it leaked again, Subaru issued bottles of factory stop leak.
I just got through watching all of your videos. But this one really resonated with me. This video gave me the courage to swap valve cover gaskets once I saw it. It totally cured my weepy-seepy engine. Did you find you had to remove the #8 ignition coil pack to get that last rack stud up under the firewall? Anyway, your advice and video helped me out 110%. The surgery victim was an '03 Silverado 1500 SS w/6L LQ9 engine, but that doesn't really matter, it seems the 4.somethings all the way up into the 6.whatchamacallits is the same gasket and grommet kit and layout. After the job, I idled her until hot, then changed the oil & filter to get any crud that may have fallen in, out. I'll degrease her after the next rain cycle and wash her inside out. She deserves it, and is still a clean, great running machine.
Great video! Could you possibly mention the other problem with this...being the pressed-in pcv in some of the gm valve covers??? It is a notorius GM problem, causing smoke on start up and lots of blow by. Id love to hear a more in depth discussion on this. So many gm vehicles with this problem.
Thank you so much for this video I literally posted about this days ago. I couldn't find a video of someone talking about both sides then cleaning after installing new gaskets. You rock man.
Nobody in their right mind should expect a mechanic to use a torque wrench on every bolt. Don't need to. You learn by experience what 80 foot-pounds or whatever is. DIY mechanics should use a torque wrench, though, especially on aluminum parts.
Yeah, when I started on my DIY repairs I always used a torque wrench when the mfg repair manual called for it. After a while one gets more and more feeling for what amount of torque is right. Now I use the torque wrench for critical stuff (like head bolts or wheel bolts) - and other stuff (like valve covers) I often just tighten by feeling. And also when I started out, for a DIY repair I did all the steps in the correct order as stated in the manual. Now, if I see it is possible, I omit steps, or do them sometimes in a different order. Start out following the instructions, and then with time you'll (hopefully) get experienced on what is the best way to do such repairs.
The strange thing about a torque wrench is that for stuff like valve cover gaskets i'd just go with the pft (pretty friggin tight), but when it does come to head bolts you can think you have it tight enough, but when you put the torque wrench on it you get another 1.5 turns out of it and go "wow".
@@onofreeduardo4298 LS type engines from those years have left and right bank knock sensors on top, underneath the intake. The number two (rear) knock sensor is notorious for holding water after being washed. They corrode and fail
This is the only engine I work on lol. I actually changed out my valve cover gaskets when I was checking the cylinder head casting marks. I accidently messed up the rivots on the side that has what I believe to be the PCV valve equivalent. I ended up having to remove 2 or 3 because they were loose and I was concerned that they would fall into by valvetrain. If I hadn't scrubbed them, they would have been fine.
106 INCH POUNDS!!!....IS approximately 8.8 FOOT POUNDS!!! Just letting commenters know....which is about a good hand tight/ snug with a shorter ratchet. FYI... Good job on the vids Wizard... I apprectiate it. Im letting people know from my horror story of miss reading the gm torque specs.... And busting on of the bolts off in the head....😬😬....i ended up covering everthing up leather and fire blanket....and tacking a 6mm nut on the end of the stud sticking out about an 1/8 out of the head..waited for it to cool...and used a 10mm socket on it...and it backed out.😁😁
Ah, so THAT is why your blue silicone gasket didn't have the little brass things in it. Bolts are not around the edge of the cover! Thank you Car Wiz! Maybe just me, I would have cleaned off that whole cover (diesel, kerosene, brake cleaner, or soap) while it was off.
I agree with the torque issue, I have actually snapped the head off of a bolt using a correct torque setting, albeit with a stainless bolt. Actual feel for the bolt is better generally.
Wizard, this is none of my business but as I wouldn't to see you or anybody for that fact have this potential issue.. Get your blood pressure checked, you have the same deep breathing as my friend had (he has bit heavier but was well in shape and very active) and suffered from a severe stroke a couple months ago. All due to having his blood pressure being high years ago and not doing anything about it, but in the following year I noticed his breathing when working together seem very similar to yours. He was in his mid 40s, not saying this could be related to you but it's something to check out because you can't go back once you get hit with a stroke.
I would just maybe use shop air to blow any dirt build up off on and around valve cover so it doesn't fall inside especially with maneuvering it around to get it out and in
My Neon had the lift, slide, and drop done. It lasted another 40,000 miles then I ended up replacing the head because some bit of the old gasket got stuck between the mating surfaces and over time and heat cycles ended up letting water from a water jacket into the cylinder. Sure it never came back and bit the dealer mechanic who did a crappy job, but I as the customer ended up eating the cost down the road because they were too lazy to follow the proper process using the proper roloc discs to clean the block and head surfaces, much less use the correct sealant on the MLS gasket that Chrysler recommended.
Yep, so many people try to compare me to factory trained dealer techs. Yet this is the kind of work coming out of dealerships these days. There are some very good dealer techs out there, but to insist that at a dealership, every exacting protocol is followed and everything is to spec. WRONG!!! Your experience with the Neon proves it. This was done nationwide.... not just at some sub-performing dealership. The buddy I have who did this same procedure said that the dealership he was at, did tons of these that way. FACTORY AUTHORIZED!!!
A pro does not have time to clean, but it would be best to clean that valve cover before putting it back on, really can't clean it with the coils on top.
Hey man I’m having issues with my truck I replaced the oil sensor in the back n it still shows low oil pressure can it be loosing pressure cus the valve cover gasket that is cracked
Yo brother 😂 Where was this video 2 days ago. Had to do my 01 Y.XL & just understood the basics of how to do it, this video helped me know that I did it the right way. Great video! Very detailed, and satisfying.... 🤨
My 2006 Hummer H3 3.6L in line 5 with 130k miles on it. Had oil pressure light coming on & off for about a month, thought it was just a dirty sensor.. one day I smelt hot oil. Pulled over & had a little smoke coming from under the hood. Popped the hood & there was oil splattered all over the top left hans side of the engine. Mechanic changed the oil switch, but it didn't fix the problem. He can't find the leak.. says he thinks I need an entire engine rebuild & he doesn't have the resources to do it, but recommended a few mechanics around town. Could the valve cover gasket possibly be the case or do you have any advice or tips you might think its leaking? I dont have $5k to put in a new motor & I absolutely love my h3. Just bought it a year ago... anything helps. Great video! New subscriber! 👍
My 5.3 leaks from valve covers and oil runs down into spark plug holes and then through spark plug threads into the cylinders #1, #4, #6 and #7. When i pull those plugs they always have oil all over threads and heavy black deposits on electrodes.
My 03 escalade is leaking oil. Just had transmission replaced and they said oil pressure sensor was leaking, plus it didn't read and work right so I replaced it... still have oil leak so I am doing valve cover gaskets now.
I thought torque'd bolts 'n nuts were for specific applications where it actually matters in a material way. Such as nuts that tighten in wheel bearings or torque to spec bolts (stretched metal one time use bolts) Whats more it's typically obvious if a situation calls for a specific amount of torque. for example when looking at the value cover, the bolts used, how thin the cover valve is, it should be clear to the "mechanically inclined" that the situation calls for just tight enough hold the gasket sealed and keep the bolts screwed in.
I think that without a torque wrench, there are those that will just strip out every bolt they touch. I knew a guy like that in the army, any bolt from 8mm, to 21mm got tightening with brute force, and he ruined many a bolt. Torque wrench solved his issues.
My passenger cover will not come off I've tugged like a mad man and not a budge. My driver side was the same but I used a wrench to wedge it using the alternator but this side had nothing to use. HELP HELP! any tricks to pop this sucker off ?
Man lots of room in that truck engine bay. Had a 1999 Camaro Z28, LS1 V8, they crammed 10lbs of shit into a 5lb bag on that car. Half the engine sat under the cowl, changing the #8 spark plug(passenger side by the firewall) was a real test in patience, probably wouldn't have been able to do it if I had really huge ass hands. Loved that car but hated working on it, saving grace was I didn't have to work on it much, it was very reliable.
@@daxstevens2461 Not just me, then. I mean, on a lot of engines I guess it's not strictly necessary, but it's how I was taught to do it, and it does seem to help prolong the time between gasket changes.
My opinion on using rtv or other sealants on gaskets is you add an extra surface to fail by applying sealant to a gasket. (sealant to head, sealant to the gasket, gasket to sealant, and finally sealant to valve cover) as opposed to just (gasket to head, gasket to valve cover) my mentor often said not to glue gaskets on for most applications, I'm sure there are exceptions for certain materials and applications.
German Torque is the industry standard for a reason. I'm sorry but your 1993 Toyata Tercel does not require the same torque procedures as a NASA launch vehicle, no matter how much you love it. "Gutentite" is good enough.
I'm doing this soon on my 2009 Volkswagen Routan. Do you suggest I spray silicone on like you did? Mine is Permatex coated and I don't think it should need anything extra. Most Amazon reviews said to just install it as is. Thanks
Hello Wizard. I'm removing the valve covers from the 5.3 V8 in my 2004 Yukon. On the driver side, removing 5 special bolts allows removal of the ignition coils as a single assembly. That's done. On the passenger side I'm unable to remove the rearmost (closest to firewall) bolt of the coil assembly. Please tell how you do that. Special tool? Daniel B. Martin
Great content as usual! Very very good and never disappointing! The use of a torque wrench makes sense in critical services like on the head bolts.... The other majority of stuff if just fine when done by feel. You just need to improve the sound quality of the videos, maybe getting a new microfone?
cant tell on the video but the driver side has the pvc valve on it its a good idea to clean out the cover really good so the oil can flow better also if your gunked up at all taking off the valves really quick and cleaning it out really good spray some cleaner down the push rods is a good idea for long Gevity they like to get gunked up oil flow is so important in LS engines CHANGE YOUR OIL run some cleaner in them form time to time 300k plus motar boys doesn't get any better. thanks engine wizard bob ross lol
Wizard, that brake fluid is looking rather old. I agree wizard. The most accurate torque wrench is an experienced mechanics wrist. When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated?
@@estandid my brother in law was a diesel mechanic in the army when he got out no one would give him a job he worked at a injection pump rebuild shop for a short time. i guess some army mechanics arent held very high
The army is definitely the branch that has the most shit heads. Sad because there are a lot of army soldiers who do give a fuck. Wizard obviously is someone who applied himself and has built an impressive career.
Just wanted to say thanks to you and your wife taking the time to show how it’s done. I never thought I could work on my own vehicles until I started watching your channel. Times are tight and you’ve saved our family hundreds of dollars helping regular guys like me fix it myself. I really appreciate it. Thanks again, Matt-Iowa
Not only are these videos amazingly informative. He’s as calming and relaxing as Bob Ross!!! You’re the man wizard. Filling the void Bob Ross left!!!
He stays so calm...When I do car repairs I use a lot of naughty words 😀
I find these videos informative and weirdly relaxing.
Its his voice
sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow lost the login password. I love any assistance you can give me.
@Vivaan Albert Instablaster ;)
@@reeceburkhalter513 🤣
Thanks for the video. I did 1 valve cover gasket over 30years ago, I knew we didn't use a Torque spanner just a socket set. I have to do a Holden 202 engine old girl and starting worrying about torque. You have helped reassure my confidence to do it the way I was shown with a socket set. Much appreciated, Melbourne Australia.
Nice to see one done. I may have to do this one day to mine. I would have soaked the valve cover in solvent or degreaser before re-installing it though.
I love these GM V8s. Just a little maintenance and you can keep them going for a long time.
Truth. Imagine this job on a Mercedes, BMW or Ferrari. Rag on American engineering and manufacturing all you want, but then watch this: and shut up.
Ha
alliejr - I replaced a valve cover gasket on a Mercedes-Benz m113 V8 and it was much easier than this.
@Mr. Cairo why so Japan can get rich...This is why usa is lost...No solidarity
Don't know about that. Bought my Yukon brand new in 2005, Head gasket blew at 60k then the differential went at 62k, then the muffler, steering column (2x), blend actuator, rear heat component, Air Ride Suspension Compressor (never ever towed anything) all before 120k. Now at 148k I have coolant loss somewhere (hoping it is the intake manifold gasket, not the another head gasket) My wife's Toyota went 282k with only a water pump ever failing.
I love your videos. Your last GM video identified 3 problems that I was having, the sheared off bolts on the exhaust, the service engine light due to the leaky intake manifold and the abs and brake lights on. I’ve repaired all myself and now have a truck that has 275,000 miles and runs like it’s brand new. PS, you were also right about the p430 code, I replaced my cats and when I cut them off, one was real bad and the other was only slightly screwed up. I’m sure I fried them driving the vehicle with a lean code for 2 years.
Given that the ignition coils are mounted on top of the value covers; I would be reluctant to subject it to spray from the car wash. I enjoy your videos. Thanks
You're like the automotive version of Bob Ross.
Happy little bolts
I liked it better when Hoovie said it. You comment thief.
He's kind a odd actually
Haha
It's really in a way an easier job to diy than an oil change. I replaced mine years ago by myself on my old 96 Chevy Cavalier!
Keepin it real Car Wizard. Hoovie would be stupid to not keep you working, not many mechanics like you still around.
I really like the honesty at the end! thanks for putting out content!
Another reason I prefer working on my 5.3 over my 5.4. It is an act of Congress doing anything on that modular.
Twice my check engine light came on for the same problem in a span of eight months. Took it to dealership first time back in February or so, they couldn't find problem told me oil residue was on plug changed it out that was that. Week ago light comes on for second time so I get code myself with help of bro's reader. Cylinder 1 misfire. Changed out all the plugs now engine light off and running smoothly. Now I've learned that replacing the valve cover gasket is the actual solution to solving my engine problem. Thanks a bunch!
-'13 Silverado 5.3
The back bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger-side coil-pack bracket is very difficult to get to. I used a 10mm bent-neck, closed-end wrench and a small tapping hammer to loosen it and remove. ( i noticed you didn't film that part of the repair job. :)
Some other mechanics say to use a long socket wrench with a wobbler and deep well 10mm socket, but i couldn't get it on the bolt because of the proximity of the firewall. Of course, when working with these smaller bolts and nuts, having a strong magnet retrieval tool is imperative to be able to finish the job because you'll always have at least one slip from your fingers.
I’m kind of shocked you didn’t replace the grommets. They are the #1 reason for valve cover leaks with this setup. Very similar to Honda valve covers the grommets are the only thing applying pressure to the valve cover to seal it. The grommet rubber over time will compress and not apply clamping pressure to the gasket causing the leak. So by not replacing the grommets you will likely get another leak from the valve cover gasket. I’ve done hundreds of these and once I learned this I stopped getting reworks. The grommets are a pain to replace, they must be cut off because the rubber is really hard. The new grommets need to been heated up to make them flexible enough to push over the stud.
Make a video pls
Are you serious!? I didn't replace them on mine(deemed it too difficult)and maybe that's why I'm still having issues.
@@Bzapp725 💯 need to replace the grommets, cut out of the old ones, warm up the new ones with a heat gun and lube them up with oil and they push in fairly easy.
@@Fix-it-tony ok, will try thanks!
I think the problem also is people are over tightening the 4 bolts. The new soft rubber is supposed to create event pressure.
I appreciate the straight talk at the end. If you're a home mechanic working on one car, sure- take the time to torque to spec. But for regular service shops, bust out the torque wrench when necessary.
Amen to that!! Im glad to see there are those who understand. Thanks for the support!
Only time I've ever needed to torque something to spec was when I did my rod and crank bearings. Oh. And my wheels. I always torque them to spec. Other than that Its by feel.
You've already taught a lot of people good skills and hopefully this will be watched for centuries to come.
Thanks abunch. Did this in the driveway in freezing temps. Surprisingly easy.
I noticed some comments about replacing the four top rubber grommets that fit on those long bolts.
The idea is to create even pressure with the new soft rubber grommets putting even pressure on the valve cover gasket. Some mechanics are more careful about screwing them down evenly and can have good luck.
Equal pressure on all four bolts is the idea.
I would've cleaned the whole valve cover before reassembly. Not necessary of course, but I just think it looks nicer.
For all the people looking deep into my engine bay, I would make it sparkly clean also.
It's a smart idea. If you don't clean it, and it starts leaking again, it's more difficult to find where it's leaking from. Also, if it's left dirty, it's hard to tell if the leak is fixed.
I like watching you do this. But 47 years ago, I found out that I do not have the talent to do DIY auto repair. I still have the tools & rollaway. You know how to work on various brands, make and models. With labor rates ~ $100 an hour at dealerships, finding a good independent installer is hard to find.
Great video saved me $800 and a car sale
Well I never have got around to owning one but it sure would be nice to have one of those basins with a brush and a hose that washes off all that nastiness with solvent so the part can be surgically clean before it goes back on. I think trying to wash that at the car wash with all that stuff in the way tucked into the engine would prettymuch suck.
I appreciate the honesty, about what’s going on in some shops.
Good information but if I paid to have valve cover gaskets done and it came back from the shop with oily valve covers I would have a hard time giving that shop my money again. A couple minutes with some spray cleaner while it was off would go a long ways towards customer satisfaction in the work done.
He said it’s his vehicle
Other newer videos recommend new covers bc they moved the pvc to a better spot away from the middle to one end.
done many of those over the years. Good video for people who are beginning wrenching
Thanks for the video wizard, I got a leaking valve cover gasket on my 1998 pontiac firebird that I'll need to tackle. 👍🇺🇲
Hey wizard, love the Neon story. I worked at a Subaru dealership in the early 00s. We’d have 3-4 engines or at a time for leaking head gaskets and it was a similar procedure. No machine shops or measuring, just scrape off the old gasket, slap a new one in there and reassemble. If it leaked again, Subaru issued bottles of factory stop leak.
I just got through watching all of your videos. But this one really resonated with me. This video gave me the courage to swap valve cover gaskets once I saw it. It totally cured my weepy-seepy engine.
Did you find you had to remove the #8 ignition coil pack to get that last rack stud up under the firewall? Anyway, your advice and video helped me out 110%. The surgery victim was an '03 Silverado 1500 SS w/6L LQ9 engine, but that doesn't really matter, it seems the 4.somethings all the way up into the 6.whatchamacallits is the same gasket and grommet kit and layout. After the job, I idled her until hot, then changed the oil & filter to get any crud that may have fallen in, out. I'll degrease her after the next rain cycle and wash her inside out. She deserves it, and is still a clean, great running machine.
Great video! Could you possibly mention the other problem with this...being the pressed-in pcv in some of the gm valve covers??? It is a notorius GM problem, causing smoke on start up and lots of blow by. Id love to hear a more in depth discussion on this. So many gm vehicles with this problem.
Thank you so much for this video I literally posted about this days ago. I couldn't find a video of someone talking about both sides then cleaning after installing new gaskets. You rock man.
Nobody in their right mind should expect a mechanic to use a torque wrench on every bolt. Don't need to. You learn by experience what 80 foot-pounds or whatever is. DIY mechanics should use a torque wrench, though, especially on aluminum parts.
Yeah, when I started on my DIY repairs I always used a torque wrench when the mfg repair manual called for it.
After a while one gets more and more feeling for what amount of torque is right.
Now I use the torque wrench for critical stuff (like head bolts or wheel bolts) - and other stuff (like valve covers) I often just tighten by feeling.
And also when I started out, for a DIY repair I did all the steps in the correct order as stated in the manual. Now, if I see it is possible, I omit steps, or do them sometimes in a different order.
Start out following the instructions, and then with time you'll (hopefully) get experienced on what is the best way to do such repairs.
Not every fucking part requires exact torquing...Heads and shit like that yes...Valve covers and engine covers no
Yeah good luck getting a torque wrench to tighten down upper control arm bolts but now that I think about it you might be able to use a crows foot
Better to be safe than sorry
The strange thing about a torque wrench is that for stuff like valve cover gaskets i'd just go with the pft (pretty friggin tight), but when it does come to head bolts you can think you have it tight enough, but when you put the torque wrench on it you get another 1.5 turns out of it and go "wow".
Hurray for the car wizard...ls motors rule for durability..
Wash the 2000~2006 engines and you'll be doing intake gaskets and bank-2 Knock Sensor before you know it!
So its bad to do an engine bay wash ?
@@onofreeduardo4298 LS type engines from those years have left and right bank knock sensors on top, underneath the intake. The number two (rear) knock sensor is notorious for holding water after being washed. They corrode and fail
I have to do this to a 2005 Chevy Silverado...thanks bro...these engines run smooth as silk
This is the only engine I work on lol. I actually changed out my valve cover gaskets when I was checking the cylinder head casting marks. I accidently messed up the rivots on the side that has what I believe to be the PCV valve equivalent. I ended up having to remove 2 or 3 because they were loose and I was concerned that they would fall into by valvetrain. If I hadn't scrubbed them, they would have been fine.
Gotta do this job on my 2003 Avalanche . Thanks for showing me how.
106 INCH POUNDS!!!....IS approximately 8.8 FOOT POUNDS!!!
Just letting commenters know....which is about a good hand tight/ snug with a shorter ratchet. FYI...
Good job on the vids Wizard... I apprectiate it. Im letting people know from my horror story of miss reading the gm torque specs.... And busting on of the bolts off in the head....😬😬....i ended up covering everthing up leather and fire blanket....and tacking a 6mm nut on the end of the stud sticking out about an 1/8 out of the head..waited for it to cool...and used a 10mm socket on it...and it backed out.😁😁
Did you try to torque them to 106 FT-lbs?
Hi Wizard, glad to know I'm your nephew now!
My 2001 Suburban has a valve cover leak. Thank you for sharing this video. Great job!😀👍
Love seeing the wizard at work!
Ah, so THAT is why your blue silicone gasket didn't have the little brass things in it. Bolts are not around the edge of the cover! Thank you Car Wiz! Maybe just me, I would have cleaned off that whole cover (diesel, kerosene, brake cleaner, or soap) while it was off.
I agree with the torque issue, I have actually snapped the head off of a bolt using a correct torque setting, albeit with a stainless bolt. Actual feel for the bolt is better generally.
Love that these videos are about the engine in my daily! Great Video!
When I use to work at a tire shop I loved when people put their lug nuts on backwards
first 2019 video from the wizard!
all the best
These are so much nicer to work on than those damn Ford trucks.
Wizard, this is none of my business but as I wouldn't to see you or anybody for that fact have this potential issue.. Get your blood pressure checked, you have the same deep breathing as my friend had (he has bit heavier but was well in shape and very active) and suffered from a severe stroke a couple months ago. All due to having his blood pressure being high years ago and not doing anything about it, but in the following year I noticed his breathing when working together seem very similar to yours. He was in his mid 40s, not saying this could be related to you but it's something to check out because you can't go back once you get hit with a stroke.
Thank you for the video...im subscribed and wont look any further anymore...
Nice informative video! You need some "Solutions Finish" for the back plastic on that truck.
Good job, just needed the cover having a thorough clean before refitting..
Good job on an actual car people will own
Do you have a Part washer?
I would have cleaned the valve cover. Great video!
😊
Nice explanation & video pictures. Thanks!
I would have really liked to see how you did the passenger side valve cover also. Not just explaining how
I love your stuff but would it have killed you to brake clean the top of that cover when it was on the bench?
titanic sauce I was just about to post that!! I'm surprised he doesn't have a parts washer.
Not paid to clean every part he touches, and time is money. It's owner's perogative to clean their own engine.
He explained multiple times he was gonna go to the carwash and spray it off. I agree tho, I wouldve at least scraped the gunk off or something
It's his vehicle. He prefers not to.
Wizard, shout out to your cameraperson. Best under-hood videos on the net
I’ll bet whoever it is was a former flashlight holder.
Torque wrench is a must when assembling an engine
Thanks Car Wizard. I'll be likely doing this soon...
I would just maybe use shop air to blow any dirt build up off on and around valve cover so it doesn't fall inside especially with maneuvering it around to get it out and in
Great camera work too.
My Neon had the lift, slide, and drop done. It lasted another 40,000 miles then I ended up replacing the head because some bit of the old gasket got stuck between the mating surfaces and over time and heat cycles ended up letting water from a water jacket into the cylinder.
Sure it never came back and bit the dealer mechanic who did a crappy job, but I as the customer ended up eating the cost down the road because they were too lazy to follow the proper process using the proper roloc discs to clean the block and head surfaces, much less use the correct sealant on the MLS gasket that Chrysler recommended.
Yep, so many people try to compare me to factory trained dealer techs. Yet this is the kind of work coming out of dealerships these days. There are some very good dealer techs out there, but to insist that at a dealership, every exacting protocol is followed and everything is to spec. WRONG!!! Your experience with the Neon proves it. This was done nationwide.... not just at some sub-performing dealership. The buddy I have who did this same procedure said that the dealership he was at, did tons of these that way. FACTORY AUTHORIZED!!!
Hello Car Wizard and Mrs. Wizard!
A pro does not have time to clean, but it would be best to clean that valve cover before putting it back on, really can't clean it with the coils on top.
You know the right way to clean the valve cover ? Any Cleaning products u can use ?
Great video. Short and to the point ; appreciate it.
Thank you, very good video and explanation how to remove valve cover gasket
Hey man I’m having issues with my truck I replaced the oil sensor in the back n it still shows low oil pressure can it be loosing pressure cus the valve cover gasket that is cracked
Happy new year wizard!
Yo brother 😂 Where was this video 2 days ago. Had to do my 01 Y.XL & just understood the basics of how to do it, this video helped me know that I did it the right way. Great video! Very detailed, and satisfying.... 🤨
I’ve found saturating them innnon hardening gasket sealer and they’ll never leak again. 👍🇦🇺
My 2006 Hummer H3 3.6L in line 5 with 130k miles on it.
Had oil pressure light coming on & off for about a month, thought it was just a dirty sensor.. one day I smelt hot oil. Pulled over & had a little smoke coming from under the hood. Popped the hood & there was oil splattered all over the top left hans side of the engine. Mechanic changed the oil switch, but it didn't fix the problem. He can't find the leak.. says he thinks I need an entire engine rebuild & he doesn't have the resources to do it, but recommended a few mechanics around town. Could the valve cover gasket possibly be the case or do you have any advice or tips you might think its leaking? I dont have $5k to put in a new motor & I absolutely love my h3. Just bought it a year ago... anything helps. Great video! New subscriber! 👍
How many miles are on the 02 avalanche?
Thank you for your video it help me out to fix my truck 👍
Thank u wizard! How do u clean the coil packs if they covered in oil?
Thank you car wizard 👍🏼👍🏼
Nice concise content. The videos keep getting better.
My 5.3 leaks from valve covers and oil runs down into spark plug holes and then through spark plug threads into the cylinders #1, #4, #6 and #7. When i pull those plugs they always have oil all over threads and heavy black deposits on electrodes.
My 03 escalade is leaking oil. Just had transmission replaced and they said oil pressure sensor was leaking, plus it didn't read and work right so I replaced it... still have oil leak so I am doing valve cover gaskets now.
I thought torque'd bolts 'n nuts were for specific applications where it actually matters in a material way. Such as nuts that tighten in wheel bearings or torque to spec bolts (stretched metal one time use bolts)
Whats more it's typically obvious if a situation calls for a specific amount of torque. for example when looking at the value cover, the bolts used, how thin the cover valve is, it should be clear to the "mechanically inclined" that the situation calls for just tight enough hold the gasket sealed and keep the bolts screwed in.
I think that without a torque wrench, there are those that will just strip out every bolt they touch. I knew a guy like that in the army, any bolt from 8mm, to 21mm got tightening with brute force, and he ruined many a bolt. Torque wrench solved his issues.
My passenger cover will not come off I've tugged like a mad man and not a budge. My driver side was the same but I used a wrench to wedge it using the alternator but this side had nothing to use. HELP HELP! any tricks to pop this sucker off ?
Man lots of room in that truck engine bay. Had a 1999 Camaro Z28, LS1 V8, they crammed 10lbs of shit into a 5lb bag on that car. Half the engine sat under the cowl, changing the #8 spark plug(passenger side by the firewall) was a real test in patience, probably wouldn't have been able to do it if I had really huge ass hands. Loved that car but hated working on it, saving grace was I didn't have to work on it much, it was very reliable.
How do you know if you put on your valve cover correctly
How about a heater core replacement video
No RTV with the new gaskets? Maybe it's just a Land Rover thing?
Also, glad to see I'm not the only one who uses the German torque specs.
I was also curious about the RTV...
@@daxstevens2461 Not just me, then. I mean, on a lot of engines I guess it's not strictly necessary, but it's how I was taught to do it, and it does seem to help prolong the time between gasket changes.
My opinion on using rtv or other sealants on gaskets is you add an extra surface to fail by applying sealant to a gasket. (sealant to head, sealant to the gasket, gasket to sealant, and finally sealant to valve cover) as opposed to just (gasket to head, gasket to valve cover) my mentor often said not to glue gaskets on for most applications, I'm sure there are exceptions for certain materials and applications.
Why not clean up the top side while it's off?
Mike Hanks mr Wizzer says he ain’t doin nothin unless he gets payed !
Idk
German Torque is the industry standard for a reason. I'm sorry but your 1993 Toyata Tercel does not require the same torque procedures as a NASA launch vehicle, no matter how much you love it. "Gutentite" is good enough.
I'm doing this soon on my 2009 Volkswagen Routan. Do you suggest I spray silicone on like you did? Mine is Permatex coated and I don't think it should need anything extra. Most Amazon reviews said to just install it as is. Thanks
Hello Wizard.
I'm removing the valve covers from the 5.3 V8 in my 2004 Yukon. On the driver side, removing 5 special bolts allows removal of the ignition coils as a single assembly. That's done. On the passenger side I'm unable to remove the rearmost (closest to firewall) bolt of the coil assembly. Please tell how you do that. Special tool?
Daniel B. Martin
The only place place I use a torque wrench is on the wheels after a while you get a feel for it by arm tightening
Great content as usual! Very very good and never disappointing! The use of a torque wrench makes sense in critical services like on the head bolts.... The other majority of stuff if just fine when done by feel. You just need to improve the sound quality of the videos, maybe getting a new microfone?
16:37 can this guy be any more authentic? lol oh and Hi Ethan!! Your uncle is an amazing mechanic and is a RUclipsR!!!
cant tell on the video but the driver side has the pvc valve on it its a good idea to clean out the cover really good so the oil can flow better also if your gunked up at all taking off the valves really quick and cleaning it out really good spray some cleaner down the push rods is a good idea for long Gevity they like to get gunked up oil flow is so important in LS engines CHANGE YOUR OIL run some cleaner in them form time to time 300k plus motar boys doesn't get any better. thanks engine wizard bob ross lol
Thanks so much man, helped a lot!
where's the Avalanche playlist? is it under LS trucks? or 5.3 vortec? can't tell how broad or specific the wizard is with this truck.
To a new year of wizardry, cheers
Wizard, that brake fluid is looking rather old. I agree wizard. The most accurate torque wrench is an experienced mechanics wrist. When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated?
Is your valve cover supposed to have that much carbon and gunk on the inside?
Do you ever work on diesels?
The wizard was a former army mechanic so I'm sure he's worked on some cool diesels
@@estandid my brother in law was a diesel mechanic in the army when he got out no one would give him a job he worked at a injection pump rebuild shop for a short time. i guess some army mechanics arent held very high
The army is definitely the branch that has the most shit heads. Sad because there are a lot of army soldiers who do give a fuck. Wizard obviously is someone who applied himself and has built an impressive career.