You wonderful human, thank you for this tip! You sent me down a rabbit hole for an entire night and I learned that this is similar to a product marketed to crafters called Jesmonite that is wildly expensive and difficult to source in the US. I was able to find the acrylic fortifier at Home Depot. From what what I read it's a complete replacement for water, as you mentioned but @tycoon891 do you still look for the same clues as dissolving in water (dry lake bed effect, mountain of plaster, quick vs slow absorption) or does it behave differently?
Correct, and depending on type of glue and amount, it can really be an added value towards prevent breakage. It is of little value to try to strengthen by adding, an after the fact, product.
Oh no way! I didn't realize you were being wildly under-subscribed until someone in your comments mentioned it. You truly do have a disproportionate ratio of quality video production and quality content to that of subscribers . Add to the how much value your community chatting in comments paid out major dividends in creative adds, therefore being a page that inviting socially and rewarding professionals. I mean, really. It's criminal your not getting major views yet. I don't have much to offer by way of solution or answers here, but,
But outside of me writing this profound observation of the world being unfair, this really is a great video. Your lifting up art product possibilities for the whole community and that's so cool and impractical
Which is all well and good when we care about non fungible this things l sing as this, where you found a way to hands a positive impact on an honorable venture that benefits all and harms only the person not wearing their safety gear
I recently got into casting and have tried the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It works well for casting and is more durable than plaster of paris. Since you have it on hand and like the color, I'd suggest trying that for casting on its own. I also tried ACTIVA PermaStone and Perfect Cast. Out of those three, I would highly recommend Perfect Cast for it's quality and durability. It seemed like it had a finer finish than the other two and has a very slight porcelain quality to it. PermaStone felt similar to regular plaster on the surface, but it's far more durable. The Water Putty felt light and I didn't appreciate the color for what I was doing. Perfect Cast is a little pricier, but for my purposes (trying to make a fine art piece), it was worth the cost.
I watched the movie until the end and I have two conclusions. It is enough to change the type of plaster, i.e. use dental plasters of class 4 or 5, they are slightly more expensive, but have very high mechanical strength. The second option is to add dispersed fibers to the plaster of Paris, they will strengthen the interior. Plaster of Paris has poor early strength and is therefore brittle. These are two options that will significantly improve its durability :) PS. Epoxy resin can be diluted with cresyl glycidyl ether and or benzyl alcohol :) Greetings from Poland :)
Hello "Epoxy resin can be diluted with cresyl glycidyl ether and or benzyl alcohol" Do you have a dilution to suggest ? Looks like you can also add some "ADILATEX" from Ardex as additiv and get even more out of the product.
on those flat molds I press strips of gauze or cotton in the back to help hold them together when I take them out. I also adding some glue to the water to help make them stronger
io lavoro spesso con plaster of paris e ti garantisco che nessun prodotto dato all'esterno evita la rottura qualunque sostanza non agisce da rafforzante, quindi io aggiungo la colla x falegname dentro il gesso e ti posso garantire che è strong
Great info! Thanks for sharing. I would suggest staining your rocks before applying the surface protectors, like Polyurethane etc. Just a suggestion. Have a better day!
This is going to sound ignorant as hell, but... the CHEAPEST most effective way to get POP to be stronger (as well as concrete for that matter) is to add about a 3rd to half as much ash to the mix. I know, but seriously... so long as the POP can still set up you can add as much ash as needed. I'm talking the powdered remains of fireplace logs or burnt leaf piles (if you're allowed to do that in your area). It'll add weight & density to the mix, thus making it stronger. Not to mention the cost savings. Only problem is it can be messy as all hell.
Before you began, I was sure a surface application wouldn't make much difference in breakability. You have to add something to the plaster mix itself. Without evidence, i would think the Titebond or Durhams might be the best choices. I might also try Weldbond glue. I used to teach art in public schools. At the end of each year, I would haul out boxes of dead pens & markers, scrap pieces of wood from the wood shop, styrofoam "peanuts", cardboard, empty plastic container, etc. to create "junk sculptures" glued with Weldbond. The first year, a few students didn't take their sculptures home. I decided to break them apart so the pieces could be used the next year, But Weldbonded items were impossible to break apart, even with a hammer. So I would guess some mixed with plaster would increase its strength. It might also impede staining since the plaster would probably be less porous. Again, these are assumptions made from my own experience with hundreds of art materials I've used in my 79 years..
mix fine "aquarium sand" or any other fine sand into the plaster of paris mixture up to 1:1 mix ration to improve strength and ridigity. For bigger pieces use steel wool or small metal mesh as reinforcement.
can you see the sand in the mix? I make fake food with plaster of paris and had a problem with big pieces breaking. I tried using foam clay instead, but its just too expensive and also doesnt looks as good as the plaster of paris bc foam clay can warp super easily. I like the smooth surface of PoP, though, when I can get it out of the mold without breaking anyway, lol! So I wonder how much the fine sand would affect that
@@Em22-wtf You mean if you can see the single sand pieces after you pull it out ? It will change it´s color but if you paint it you won´t see it. What you can do to improve the surface quality is you can brush a very thin layer of plaster on the outer surface before you pour to make sure you have captured every detail. Try it out and see if it´s useful for you .
Add a light dusting of corn starch to the mould first before clay or PoP, just brush on powder with artist brush, if too much goes into mould simply blow out. Stops the clay or PoP sticking & breaking taking it out of the silicone mould…
🔺I expected you to add the product into the PofP mix. Thats the method for gaining a successful greater tolerance. 🔹Ideally you Stain first, followed by the sealer/Polyeurophine. 🔹Over a sealer it is recommended that one use "Chalk Paint", other paints won't adhere, either at all 9r well, over sealer. Thanks
I never worked with Plaster of Paris (or any other kind of plaster) before, but I recently bought some costume props from an organisation. The helmets have some damages, and I want to repair them. It looks like the helmets are made of, which I assume, cardboard (or paper machee) and then covered in a thin layer of plaster. What would you recommend I use for those damaged parts for regularly wearing the helmets (inside and outside, with posibility of rain)? Just normal PoP? Seeing that you use water based coloring (and water to make it), I assume rain won't do much harm? It's obviously not the intention to drop the helmets, or use them in combat simulation, so that's why I think they used plaster in the 1st place Also, I'm going to spray paint & then varnish (or maybe lacquer?) when the helmets are finished to my liking
Probably too late for your needs. I might try using one of the following: Outdoor strength spackling. Once dry it can be painted with exterior water-based paint. It is water resistant, so would probably withstand sweat and or rain. I would seal the pieces with something like Minwax polyurethane (outdoor/indoor, water & fade resistant) before adding the spackling and then as a sealant after painting. I also saw a video of someone using flour, white glue, baking soda and vinegar in a similar way. Unfortunately she didn't include amounts. The vinegar is to prevent the mixture from getting moldy before it dries, which might take several days. I plan to try several mixtures of that flour clay on small items to create my own recipe. Look for videos of homemade air-dry clay. You can add paint to color it ahead of time or paint it after., Pieces can be glued on with Elmer's or wood glue. One disadvantage is that the pieces do shrink a bit while drying, so they won''t work with everything. For example, if you were to make a bowl with it, you could press it inside of an existing bowl to create the shape. As it dries it will get smaller inside of the bowl. But if you put it on the outside of a bowl to create the shape, as it shrinks, it will probably break. I've also use modeling paste to fill in missing pieces or breakage. In small areas, it dries in an hour or so. For large areas it might take a couple of days.
does this trick works? i recently started using PoP and it breaks easily during sanding, and the method from the video doesn't seem so cost effective unfortunately
I've sometimes seen yt movies where they stick plaster to a ceiling and then move over it with a kind of shaped profile to make a decorative moulding. Do you know what they could have been using for this? I think they were talking about plaster, but that is much to liquid to stick to someting... Thnx
I have perfect casting and I made little angels in a broke easy I read online that you can add glue to the water before you add plaster of Paris and it will make it stronger I will try this technique
This is weird. I looked into this years ago, and they were adding the items to the mix, not top coating to make it stronger. Top coating doesn't seem effective. I actually tried the school glue and it worked for me. I mixed it with the plaster and then poured and cured. I don't remember what the ratio was now.
Seems like maybe you could mix the different types of hardners to the plaster while making the rocks & it might make them harder. You should try it & make a video like this one.
I use this all the time for other materials but I would imagine glass fibers would massively increase durability. But it definitely depends on the mold or project.
I know Im 2 yrs late...but I wonder how Mod Podge would have been? ANd there are various types of mod podge to use, but Id just try the matte mod podge. Id also paint it first, then use the MP. It might help with scratches and seal it, but I dont think itd help for breakage. I have mixed Mod Podge in with my paint and then painted the plaster of paris mold (fake food, I made fake Ice Cream sandwiches with PoP, lol!)
If I wanted to make the PoP indestructible could I just mix it with something other than water in the first place? For example just make it a PoP polyurethane mixture and put it straight into the mold that way?
Mix 2 part epoxy and add your pop or Durhams Water Putty to it, rather than the water you'd normally add. Almost unbreakable, and water proof. You could cast using POP, then use the epoxy mix as a Coating you'd brush on. FYI, you thin epoxy with a small bit of rubbing alcohol or even just warm the mix with a hairdryer and it's much thinner.
As you should know by now with other comments, you are suppose to add the glue within the mixer of plaster and some add in the acrylic paint in the mixer as well for desired colors in mixer.
I suppose the thought was these were things that could be done to existing casts. I'll definitely have to try adding hardeners to the plaster, though I'm not sure I would use my nicest molds when adding glue and things!
@@warscapestudios it doesn’t hurt Molds one bit. I’ve added all different mixtures to silicone molds. Put cornstarch first into mold for best release. Mix the pop into glue water mixture or whatever mixture. . I’ve added all different mixtures to my most expensive molds and they’re fine.
Any other suggestions? You demonstrated exactly what I am searching for! I have premade plaster ($Tree Christmas) orniments. Several broke on the drive home. Now I need to safely transport & store the unused ones for painting next year! 😮 Also, I'd like to strengthen the painted ones. I am not going to cast multiple orniments for 8 grandchildren & their parents plus the grand parents. I'm grateful to have found cute, affordable, premade orniments, although fradgile. Wish I'd thought of looking this up sooner. I'm grateful to not waste my time on these options. I'm going to experiment with the broken orniments. Maybe a paintable base acrylic primer would work. Thanks again! Good topic, demonstration, explinations, narrative, and summeries.
I liked and subscribed because of all the trouble you went through with this process, and your presentation. For what it's worth: I am of the opinion that the problem is addressed and not the cause. If one gold-plates a turd, it is still a turd. The solution lies in addressing the plaster, not the coating. I think mixing the plaster with PVA glue (for example) would strengthen it considerably better than any of the offered solutions. Perhaps someone knows more, and can share their knowledge.
@Bronson Davion i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Bronson Davion WTF IT REALLY WORKED! Literally hacked my instagram account after about 30 mins by using the site. Had to pay 15 bucks but definitely worth the money :O Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
@@fromtheroots4003 regular cement that is sold at building supply stores. Make sure that it is cement and not concrete or mortar. The cement needs to be cement dust/powder with no rocks or aggregate in it Remember no concrete.
I've tried this and it seems my pieces ended up brittle, then I looked into it and the articles I read said cement powder and plaster shouldn't be mixed. But I will give it another go and see what happens. Thank you!
Wait, air dry clay? You have my full attention! Do you have a recipe you recommend? I've been using calcium carbonate for making chalk paint but POP is much cheaper, thank you for the tip!
PU products is not good when you want to have absorbent nature, that's my experience, several people as well mentioned it regular white wood glue(not the water proof grade, but an interior one should do the trick)
The Durhams water putty when mixed correctly ( the consistency of glue/pancake batter) will harden to the strength almost equal of Bondo. For these small parts, I would use nothing else. Look no further. A word of caution, Bondo is actually easier to sand.
Could you please put a seizure warning with the flashing in the screen of media offline, I started to become ill and was unable to finish video due to flashing.
Yeah, I just wanted to experiment with the things I've already cast. I will have to try adding things to the mix. I've seen both things like wool and glue to both increase the durability. So you think PVA or wood glue would be best?
Its really annoying that you did your tests and watered down half the things. If you would have cleaned off the molds between the rock it probably wouldnt break the rocks as easily. For the ones you cant paint over the coatings.. then why wouldnt you paint and stain them first? I don’t understand how sealing them before you paint or stain them would make sense. However, i do appreciate the details you talk about with each thing and that you tested multiple things. Just wish you would have mixed things properly before dismissing the product saying it didnt work when it wasnt mixed correctly to begin with.
Sorry you didn't like the video. I suppose I wasn't trying to dismiss anything, just had a process and followed it for each product. I'll definitely try adding things as part of the casting process, possibly showing the results in a future video!
Best way to strengthen PoP is using a concrete acrylic fortifier in replacement for water when you mix. Been using this technique for years. Best imo!
Where can I buy the concerte acrylic?
@@1Grandhustler you can find it Home Depot or Lowes
@@tycoon891 Do you recommend anything to make plaster harder?
What is the ratio of the acrylic to PoP?
You wonderful human, thank you for this tip! You sent me down a rabbit hole for an entire night and I learned that this is similar to a product marketed to crafters called Jesmonite that is wildly expensive and difficult to source in the US. I was able to find the acrylic fortifier at Home Depot. From what what I read it's a complete replacement for water, as you mentioned but @tycoon891 do you still look for the same clues as dissolving in water (dry lake bed effect, mountain of plaster, quick vs slow absorption) or does it behave differently?
When casting, mix the pva glue into the water, then add that mox to your pop. It strengthens the whole piece vs just the surface.
Correct, and depending on type of glue and amount, it can really be an added value towards prevent breakage.
It is of little value to try to strengthen by adding, an after the fact, product.
@@bethbartlett5692 can you please share the ratio of water and PVA glue?
@@bilalpathan919waiting for that ratio too
Oh no way! I didn't realize you were being wildly under-subscribed until someone in your comments mentioned it. You truly do have a disproportionate ratio of quality video production and quality content to that of subscribers .
Add to the how much value your community chatting in comments paid out major dividends in creative adds, therefore being a page that inviting socially and rewarding professionals.
I mean, really. It's criminal your not getting major views yet.
I don't have much to offer by way of solution or answers here, but,
So I'll give you algorithm love. And um obviously subscribed, lol
But outside of me writing this profound observation of the world being unfair, this really is a great video. Your lifting up art product possibilities for the whole community and that's so cool and impractical
Which is all well and good when we care about non fungible this things l sing as this, where you found a way to hands a positive impact on an honorable venture that benefits all and harms only the person not wearing their safety gear
But lot of good that'll do you when you're watching everyone else afford more food.
Hey. I didn't say I was going to leave you an enjoyable or intelligible litany of algorithm contributions. Just the contributions b
Wish this dude made more videos this video is one of the greatest videos I have seen in my 30 years hope you come back dude!!!
I recently got into casting and have tried the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. It works well for casting and is more durable than plaster of paris. Since you have it on hand and like the color, I'd suggest trying that for casting on its own. I also tried ACTIVA PermaStone and Perfect Cast. Out of those three, I would highly recommend Perfect Cast for it's quality and durability. It seemed like it had a finer finish than the other two and has a very slight porcelain quality to it. PermaStone felt similar to regular plaster on the surface, but it's far more durable. The Water Putty felt light and I didn't appreciate the color for what I was doing. Perfect Cast is a little pricier, but for my purposes (trying to make a fine art piece), it was worth the cost.
I watched the movie until the end and I have two conclusions. It is enough to change the type of plaster, i.e. use dental plasters of class 4 or 5, they are slightly more expensive, but have very high mechanical strength. The second option is to add dispersed fibers to the plaster of Paris, they will strengthen the interior. Plaster of Paris has poor early strength and is therefore brittle. These are two options that will significantly improve its durability :)
PS. Epoxy resin can be diluted with cresyl glycidyl ether and or benzyl alcohol :) Greetings from Poland :)
Hello
"Epoxy resin can be diluted with cresyl glycidyl ether and or benzyl alcohol"
Do you have a dilution to suggest ?
Looks like you can also add some "ADILATEX" from Ardex as additiv and get even more out of the product.
thats a really good quality video for only 28 subs. great job.
I appreciate it
on those flat molds I press strips of gauze or cotton in the back to help hold them together when I take them out. I also adding some glue to the water to help make them stronger
This seems like a great idea. Plus, it's probably not any harder on the molds than the plaster.
That’s what I was thinking. Why not just mix the glue water mixture to plaster then to molds?
I love the idea of using gauze as a support! Great idea!
io lavoro spesso con plaster of paris e ti garantisco che nessun prodotto dato all'esterno evita la rottura qualunque sostanza non agisce da rafforzante, quindi io aggiungo la colla x falegname dentro il gesso e ti posso garantire che è strong
Great info! Thanks for sharing.
I would suggest staining your rocks before applying the surface protectors, like Polyurethane etc. Just a suggestion.
Have a better day!
Great tip!
This is going to sound ignorant as hell, but... the CHEAPEST most effective way to get POP to be stronger (as well as concrete for that matter) is to add about a 3rd to half as much ash to the mix. I know, but seriously... so long as the POP can still set up you can add as much ash as needed. I'm talking the powdered remains of fireplace logs or burnt leaf piles (if you're allowed to do that in your area). It'll add weight & density to the mix, thus making it stronger. Not to mention the cost savings. Only problem is it can be messy as all hell.
ASHHH, thank you!!
Never would have guessed that. I'll have to give it a shot!
Cement dust will work too.
This is such a grrat tip, and one I have never heard before. Thank you!
very thoughtful; less messy will be to sparingly add Portland white cement to the mixture, it makes strong out of the mold sculptures.
I have been able to paint over resin. Also you can use a heat gun to keep it from hardening while applying
i used to add glue to the water and fibers for concrete, it sure helped stop the flaking,,, thank you for the tips
Great tip!
Before you began, I was sure a surface application wouldn't make much difference in breakability. You have to add something to the plaster mix itself. Without evidence, i would think the Titebond or Durhams might be the best choices. I might also try Weldbond glue.
I used to teach art in public schools. At the end of each year, I would haul out boxes of dead pens & markers, scrap pieces of wood from the wood shop, styrofoam "peanuts", cardboard, empty plastic container, etc. to create "junk sculptures" glued with Weldbond. The first year, a few students didn't take their sculptures home. I decided to break them apart so the pieces could be used the next year, But Weldbonded items were impossible to break apart, even with a hammer. So I would guess some mixed with plaster would increase its strength. It might also impede staining since the plaster would probably be less porous.
Again, these are assumptions made from my own experience with hundreds of art materials I've used in my 79 years..
Thanks!
I just had a conversant this and varnish is what I was told they used back in the day.
mix fine "aquarium sand" or any other fine sand into the plaster of paris mixture up to 1:1 mix ration to improve strength and ridigity. For bigger pieces use steel wool or small metal mesh as reinforcement.
can you see the sand in the mix? I make fake food with plaster of paris and had a problem with big pieces breaking. I tried using foam clay instead, but its just too expensive and also doesnt looks as good as the plaster of paris bc foam clay can warp super easily. I like the smooth surface of PoP, though, when I can get it out of the mold without breaking anyway, lol! So I wonder how much the fine sand would affect that
@@Em22-wtf You mean if you can see the single sand pieces after you pull it out ? It will change it´s color but if you paint it you won´t see it. What you can do to improve the surface quality is you can brush a very thin layer of plaster on the outer surface before you pour to make sure you have captured every detail. Try it out and see if it´s useful for you .
Add a light dusting of corn starch to the mould first before clay or PoP, just brush on powder with artist brush, if too much goes into mould simply blow out. Stops the clay or PoP sticking & breaking taking it out of the silicone mould…
🔺I expected you to add the product into the PofP mix. Thats the method for gaining a successful greater tolerance.
🔹Ideally you Stain first, followed by the sealer/Polyeurophine.
🔹Over a sealer it is recommended that one use "Chalk Paint", other paints won't adhere, either at all 9r well, over sealer.
Thanks
I never worked with Plaster of Paris (or any other kind of plaster) before, but I recently bought some costume props from an organisation. The helmets have some damages, and I want to repair them.
It looks like the helmets are made of, which I assume, cardboard (or paper machee) and then covered in a thin layer of plaster. What would you recommend I use for those damaged parts for regularly wearing the helmets (inside and outside, with posibility of rain)? Just normal PoP? Seeing that you use water based coloring (and water to make it), I assume rain won't do much harm?
It's obviously not the intention to drop the helmets, or use them in combat simulation, so that's why I think they used plaster in the 1st place
Also, I'm going to spray paint & then varnish (or maybe lacquer?) when the helmets are finished to my liking
Probably too late for your needs.
I might try using one of the following:
Outdoor strength spackling. Once dry it can be painted with exterior water-based paint. It is water resistant, so would probably withstand sweat and or rain. I would seal the pieces with something like Minwax polyurethane (outdoor/indoor, water & fade resistant) before adding the spackling and then as a sealant after painting.
I also saw a video of someone using flour, white glue, baking soda and vinegar in a similar way. Unfortunately she didn't include amounts. The vinegar is to prevent the mixture from getting moldy before it dries, which might take several days. I plan to try several mixtures of that flour clay on small items to create my own recipe.
Look for videos of homemade air-dry clay. You can add paint to color it ahead of time or paint it after., Pieces can be glued on with Elmer's or wood glue. One disadvantage is that the pieces do shrink a bit while drying, so they won''t work with everything. For example, if you were to make a bowl with it, you could press it inside of an existing bowl to create the shape. As it dries it will get smaller inside of the bowl. But if you put it on the outside of a bowl to create the shape, as it shrinks, it will probably break.
I've also use modeling paste to fill in missing pieces or breakage. In small areas, it dries in an hour or so. For large areas it might take a couple of days.
Have you tried adding pva glue to the wet mix?
does this trick works? i recently started using PoP and it breaks easily during sanding, and the method from the video doesn't seem so cost effective unfortunately
I've sometimes seen yt movies where they stick plaster to a ceiling and then move over it with a kind of shaped profile to make a decorative moulding. Do you know what they could have been using for this? I think they were talking about plaster, but that is much to liquid to stick to someting... Thnx
Elmer's school glue is my favorite flavor
Same tbh
I have perfect casting and I made little angels in a broke easy I read online that you can add glue to the water before you add plaster of Paris and it will make it stronger I will try this technique
This is weird. I looked into this years ago, and they were adding the items to the mix, not top coating to make it stronger. Top coating doesn't seem effective. I actually tried the school glue and it worked for me. I mixed it with the plaster and then poured and cured. I don't remember what the ratio was now.
I'll have to give that a try!
Seems like maybe you could mix the different types of hardners to the plaster while making the rocks & it might make them harder. You should try it & make a video like this one.
Great Idea!
is Perfect Plaster Pottery & Ceramic Casting Material better to use?
I use this all the time for other materials but I would imagine glass fibers would massively increase durability. But it definitely depends on the mold or project.
I know Im 2 yrs late...but I wonder how Mod Podge would have been? ANd there are various types of mod podge to use, but Id just try the matte mod podge. Id also paint it first, then use the MP. It might help with scratches and seal it, but I dont think itd help for breakage. I have mixed Mod Podge in with my paint and then painted the plaster of paris mold (fake food, I made fake Ice Cream sandwiches with PoP, lol!)
E o hidrofugante, e a caucita? Cadê? Fica igual a resincrete.
If I wanted to make the PoP indestructible could I just mix it with something other than water in the first place? For example just make it a PoP polyurethane mixture and put it straight into the mold that way?
I'm wondering the same. Have you tried it?
I'll have to give that a try
Mix 2 part epoxy and add your pop or Durhams Water Putty to it, rather than the water you'd normally add. Almost unbreakable, and water proof. You could cast using POP, then use the epoxy mix as a Coating you'd brush on. FYI, you thin epoxy with a small bit of rubbing alcohol or even just warm the mix with a hairdryer and it's much thinner.
Did you let the gypsum cure fully? It takes almost a week..
Have you tried adding colour before the wood glue or even during casting
I have not, though that may be an experiment for a future video!
Hi…plaster of paris jual kat mana ye?
As you should know by now with other comments, you are suppose to add the glue within the mixer of plaster and some add in the acrylic paint in the mixer as well for desired colors in mixer.
I suppose the thought was these were things that could be done to existing casts. I'll definitely have to try adding hardeners to the plaster, though I'm not sure I would use my nicest molds when adding glue and things!
@@warscapestudios it doesn’t hurt Molds one bit. I’ve added all different mixtures to silicone molds. Put cornstarch first into mold for best release. Mix the pop into glue water mixture or whatever mixture. . I’ve added all different mixtures to my most expensive molds and they’re fine.
Where can I buy this mold? Can you show me the site?
Any other suggestions?
You demonstrated exactly what I am searching for!
I have premade plaster ($Tree Christmas) orniments. Several broke on the drive home. Now I need to safely transport & store the unused ones for painting next year! 😮
Also, I'd like to strengthen the painted ones.
I am not going to cast multiple orniments for 8 grandchildren & their parents plus the grand parents.
I'm grateful to have found cute, affordable, premade orniments, although fradgile.
Wish I'd thought of looking this up sooner. I'm grateful to not waste my time on these options.
I'm going to experiment with the broken orniments. Maybe a paintable base acrylic primer would work.
Thanks again!
Good topic, demonstration, explinations, narrative, and summeries.
I liked and subscribed because of all the trouble you went through with this process, and your presentation. For what it's worth: I am of the opinion that the problem is addressed and not the cause. If one gold-plates a turd, it is still a turd. The solution lies in addressing the plaster, not the coating. I think mixing the plaster with PVA glue (for example) would strengthen it considerably better than any of the offered solutions. Perhaps someone knows more, and can share their knowledge.
add hair to the mix .... pva hair and plaster is exactly a similar process we used for houses for centuries ...
I added Vermiculite to my plaster and it worked like a charm .. great vid!
@Bronson Davion i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Bronson Davion WTF IT REALLY WORKED! Literally hacked my instagram account after about 30 mins by using the site.
Had to pay 15 bucks but definitely worth the money :O
Thank you so much, you really help me out :D
Add strans of fiber glass or some type of carbon fiber or just some clean fibers
That makes sense!
I was hoping to find a way to make the plaster stronger, but that didn't come through on this video
A possible option is to strengthen plaster of Paris is to mix in cement (not concrete) 30 to 40 percent cement to 60 to 70 plaster of Paris.
Hi. What type of cement to mix..? Thanks!
@@fromtheroots4003 regular cement that is sold at building supply stores. Make sure that it is cement and not concrete or mortar. The cement needs to be cement dust/powder with no rocks or aggregate in it Remember no concrete.
Thank u 🙏
I've tried this and it seems my pieces ended up brittle, then I looked into it and the articles I read said cement powder and plaster shouldn't be mixed. But I will give it another go and see what happens. Thank you!
Thank you, but back to the drawing board
try to saturate in water with cement let it soak then dry
What if you mixed the wood glue into the PoP? Mixing it into paint makes chalk paint . Also you can make air dry clay.
Wait, air dry clay? You have my full attention! Do you have a recipe you recommend? I've been using calcium carbonate for making chalk paint but POP is much cheaper, thank you for the tip!
PU products is not good when you want to have absorbent nature, that's my experience, several people as well mentioned it regular white wood glue(not the water proof grade, but an interior one should do the trick)
The Durhams water putty when mixed correctly ( the consistency of glue/pancake batter) will harden to the strength almost equal of Bondo. For these small parts, I would use nothing else. Look no further. A word of caution, Bondo is actually easier to sand.
Im trying to avoid spending money on casting materials, consequently Im desperate for finding a way to make plaster stronger!
It's good to see your experiments but do away with the background music, it's really distracting and difficult to listen to your comments
Could you please put a seizure warning with the flashing in the screen of media offline, I started to become ill and was unable to finish video due to flashing.
Hey sorry about that! I’ll edit the video to blank out that part as soon as I get home!
use stonecast instead its the strongest plaster ... sorta like cement
I have used dental plaster, and it is amazingly strong... just not as nice on the wallet.
Yes, I'd love to do more casting, but dental pladter is so expensive!
Have you tried mixing the glues in with the plaster and water and them pour into the molds? I think you'd have better luck doing it that way.
Great idea!
Just mix p o p with sand
use sulphuric acid instead of water.
Buddy you are doing it all wrong.. you need to mix the plaster with each harder you expect to try to use then cast them..
You really need to add the glue to the mix and not just coating the castings with it. One wouldn't really expect coating to strengthen the plaser.
Yeah, I just wanted to experiment with the things I've already cast. I will have to try adding things to the mix. I've seen both things like wool and glue to both increase the durability. So you think PVA or wood glue would be best?
Can’t hear one word you are saying because of the background music,🤨🤨🤨🤨🤨
Its really annoying that you did your tests and watered down half the things. If you would have cleaned off the molds between the rock it probably wouldnt break the rocks as easily. For the ones you cant paint over the coatings.. then why wouldnt you paint and stain them first? I don’t understand how sealing them before you paint or stain them would make sense. However, i do appreciate the details you talk about with each thing and that you tested multiple things. Just wish you would have mixed things properly before dismissing the product saying it didnt work when it wasnt mixed correctly to begin with.
Sorry you didn't like the video. I suppose I wasn't trying to dismiss anything, just had a process and followed it for each product. I'll definitely try adding things as part of the casting process, possibly showing the results in a future video!
I beg you not to put music it’s too loud and hard to hear