Always remember that when cleaning your hole you turn the brush in the same direction on the way in and the way out. This will break any small fragments loose and score the edges of the hole for better glue retention. Learned this in construction.
Pro-tip: If you're going to be doing more than a few holes, invest in the carbide-tipped rotohammer drill bits. They will stay sharp WAY longer and drill faster, well worth the extra $10-$15.
The bits he showed are brazed carbide single and double spade. He said hardened bit, but technically it's a different material. Carbide is amazingly hard. But I've chipped alot of it over my career
I'd try to get a rotary pipe cleaner and whatever adapters needed to spin it with the hammer drill (not hammering obviously), that'd make cleaning a lot more convenient at least.
Cool video bro! I wanna go to Mount Roraima in Guyana and put some epic routes up on the most epic prehistoric granite! And on the summit (12sq mi wide plateau) there are huge boulders also, 50- 60 feet ht. First Ascents Await!
Hilti is the premier brand, it is The Industry tool of choice. Now I'm a electrican, and the price tag if Hilti had me searching eBay. But they are the toughest tools currently in production because of the way they service the tools. When bought new, they tend (threw the dist company) to have a service package to maintain the tool for a true life warranty. That being said, my day to day tools and the ones that I feel are a good balance between cost and performance, are Milwaukee. That is my personal opinion and not a statement of fact. What is fact is that DeWalt the French company was bought out by black n decker to be black n Decker's industrial tool line since the customer perception of black n decker fell due to decisions made to make tools more accecpted and accessable to home owners. Peace, love and be safe Rob
Hey Ryan, have you have done any testing on mechanical bolts on sandstone? I've done a course on conquering climbing routes and the instructor used only traditional stainless mechanical bolts, sometimes they would not get tight at all. Would be really cool to see this series on different rocks, but I understand it's not easy to have access to natural sandstone that you could screw up.. also sandstone varies so much that I don't know how much value testing different sandstone would have comparing with our own local one, quite tricky. Cheers!
We did 100 break tests in Moab. Mechanical bolts in shear are fine in our tests, but doesn't take into consideration cyclic loading. We will be releasing episodes about our sandstone tests in next few months. You can feel if the bolt is solid when you put it in. Long term, IDK though.
Dude, I professionally install geo-stabilization systems, and I've been climbing (including new routes and bolting) for almost 30 years. I *cannot* stress enough how *correct* that last point your made re: blowing *and* brushing bolt holes. We test every single bolt we place to 50% of it's engineered tolerance (this varies depending on the system and requirements). I have so many examples of bolts failing because a hole wasn't cleaned properly. Proper cleaning shouldn't involve a formula. Don't just blow / brush / blow every hole! Do it until you're happy that the amount of dust / spoil coming out of the hole isn't an issue. Pro-tip: An acceptable amount is unnoticeable. The rock can change in a very small distance (in sandstone, it can be centimeters between solid and cheese). Even concrete can be changeable with regards to the density of the grains, the hardness, the amount of dust that be blown from a hole. This can (and, I can witness, does) create a difference between a bolt failing at 0.5kN, and passing (i.e., no steady decrease of engineering spec rating, held for a minimum of 2 minutes) at 7.5kN. One was brushed and blown until nothing came out, the other was a blow / brush / blow.
@@HowNOT2 No, but I will try to remember to get some. I can probably do a pretty good series of tests if I can find some sacrificial rocks (Sandstone I can probably find, it's harder to come across "sacrificial" granite or limestone in Australia without access to a quarry). I can test with a proper anchor tester with a series of bolts in uncleaned, blow-brush-blow cleaned, properly cleaned and get kN readings for where they all fail. Unfortunately, it'll have to wait until I've got some spare stainless M12 threaded bar around! That stuff is usually only bought in quantities to fill a job spec, and I only usually have access to spare stock when we buy up for a large job! I'll keep it in mind next time I'm doing some testing, and will try to get you some photos of controlled test-to-failure situations in various conditions / materials. Not really applicable to highlining / climbing, but you should see the failure variance in bigger anchors! I'm talking 24mm stainless, 6m long bar concreted into sandstone! This is one of the reasons geo-tech engineers over-spec the shit out of these systems!
It seems like you have to apply a fair amount of pressure to drill the hole. This is easy to do when you're on the ground drilling directly downward, but isn't it harder to drill holes on a vertical climbing wall, when you're off the ground?
You really only need 20-30 lbs or so of pressure, just enough to keep the bit pressured on the rock as the hammering action cycles. You can actually prevent the hammering action from cycling if you push too hard (you have to push pretty hard for this though).
I've drilled in every position and angle as a electrican from deep in a hole my self, to high in the sky on a 165 foot crain lift. The amount of pressure needed in any position is enough to allow the bit to bounce a tiny amount to break up the rock at the tip, but enough to maintain contact so a firm push. The bigger the diameter the harder it is, especially vertical over head. But with paitence and time, it's not bad at all.
The harder you push the slower it drills because you're damping the impact force. The only pressure you need to put on the drill is enough to keep the hammering action engaged.
two cut drill bits ARE NOT SUITABLE for the tolerances of removable bolts. petzl recommends a 4 cut head only as the hole they create is less oblong and rounder than the hole made by the 2 cut heads.
I believe everybody should have to drill a hole with a star bit before they're allowed to use the rotohammer, then they'll truly understand the process and appreciate the Aid of technology.
Heyo! I've got access to a decently high power AMScope (electronics microscope) at work, so if you ever want want to take a closer look at something send it my way!
Dude.... if you seriously have to make a video explaining how to drill a hole, the people that have to watch it prior to rigging their shit....should not be near a damn cliff.
So you think the person that just wings it and assumes they know what they are doing without any research ARE the ones that should be at a cliff installing hardware that you are hanging your stupid life on?
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
Amazingly useful video. Just what we needed. Thanks
Always remember that when cleaning your hole you turn the brush in the same direction on the way in and the way out. This will break any small fragments loose and score the edges of the hole for better glue retention. Learned this in construction.
Pro-tip: If you're going to be doing more than a few holes, invest in the carbide-tipped rotohammer drill bits. They will stay sharp WAY longer and drill faster, well worth the extra $10-$15.
The bits he showed are brazed carbide single and double spade.
He said hardened bit, but technically it's a different material. Carbide is amazingly hard. But I've chipped alot of it over my career
instablaster
I'd try to get a rotary pipe cleaner and whatever adapters needed to spin it with the hammer drill (not hammering obviously), that'd make cleaning a lot more convenient at least.
Cool video bro! I wanna go to Mount Roraima in Guyana and put some epic routes up on the most epic prehistoric granite! And on the summit (12sq mi wide plateau) there are huge boulders also, 50- 60 feet ht. First Ascents Await!
Just one correction that I noticed. SDS and SDS PLUS are cross compatible.
true
If you can afford buy a Hilti te6a 36V
did a lot of rebolting with it. you need no pressure at all Even for holes bigger then 12mm.🤟
Hilti is the premier brand, it is The Industry tool of choice.
Now I'm a electrican, and the price tag if Hilti had me searching eBay. But they are the toughest tools currently in production because of the way they service the tools. When bought new, they tend (threw the dist company) to have a service package to maintain the tool for a true life warranty. That being said, my day to day tools and the ones that I feel are a good balance between cost and performance, are Milwaukee.
That is my personal opinion and not a statement of fact.
What is fact is that DeWalt the French company was bought out by black n decker to be black n Decker's industrial tool line since the customer perception of black n decker fell due to decisions made to make tools more accecpted and accessable to home owners.
Peace, love and be safe
Rob
Hey Ryan, have you have done any testing on mechanical bolts on sandstone? I've done a course on conquering climbing routes and the instructor used only traditional stainless mechanical bolts, sometimes they would not get tight at all. Would be really cool to see this series on different rocks, but I understand it's not easy to have access to natural sandstone that you could screw up.. also sandstone varies so much that I don't know how much value testing different sandstone would have comparing with our own local one, quite tricky.
Cheers!
We did 100 break tests in Moab. Mechanical bolts in shear are fine in our tests, but doesn't take into consideration cyclic loading. We will be releasing episodes about our sandstone tests in next few months. You can feel if the bolt is solid when you put it in. Long term, IDK though.
@@HowNOT2 ohh nice!! I'll be the first to watch it! ✌️
Dude, I professionally install geo-stabilization systems, and I've been climbing (including new routes and bolting) for almost 30 years.
I *cannot* stress enough how *correct* that last point your made re: blowing *and* brushing bolt holes. We test every single bolt we place to 50% of it's engineered tolerance (this varies depending on the system and requirements). I have so many examples of bolts failing because a hole wasn't cleaned properly.
Proper cleaning shouldn't involve a formula. Don't just blow / brush / blow every hole! Do it until you're happy that the amount of dust / spoil coming out of the hole isn't an issue. Pro-tip: An acceptable amount is unnoticeable.
The rock can change in a very small distance (in sandstone, it can be centimeters between solid and cheese). Even concrete can be changeable with regards to the density of the grains, the hardness, the amount of dust that be blown from a hole. This can (and, I can witness, does) create a difference between a bolt failing at 0.5kN, and passing (i.e., no steady decrease of engineering spec rating, held for a minimum of 2 minutes) at 7.5kN. One was brushed and blown until nothing came out, the other was a blow / brush / blow.
Do you have pictures of failed bolts from improperly cleaned holes. I'd like to include more of those pictures in the bolting bible
@@HowNOT2 No, but I will try to remember to get some. I can probably do a pretty good series of tests if I can find some sacrificial rocks (Sandstone I can probably find, it's harder to come across "sacrificial" granite or limestone in Australia without access to a quarry). I can test with a proper anchor tester with a series of bolts in uncleaned, blow-brush-blow cleaned, properly cleaned and get kN readings for where they all fail. Unfortunately, it'll have to wait until I've got some spare stainless M12 threaded bar around! That stuff is usually only bought in quantities to fill a job spec, and I only usually have access to spare stock when we buy up for a large job! I'll keep it in mind next time I'm doing some testing, and will try to get you some photos of controlled test-to-failure situations in various conditions / materials.
Not really applicable to highlining / climbing, but you should see the failure variance in bigger anchors! I'm talking 24mm stainless, 6m long bar concreted into sandstone! This is one of the reasons geo-tech engineers over-spec the shit out of these systems!
@@Intermernet thank you for this, I've never really been told in my trade as a electrician to do this, nor how much it can effect strength.
I’m sure you’ve answered this somewhere, but Bolted vs glued? And why?
It seems like you have to apply a fair amount of pressure to drill the hole. This is easy to do when you're on the ground drilling directly downward, but isn't it harder to drill holes on a vertical climbing wall, when you're off the ground?
Technically the drill is suppose to do the work. I don't really push that hard.
You really only need 20-30 lbs or so of pressure, just enough to keep the bit pressured on the rock as the hammering action cycles. You can actually prevent the hammering action from cycling if you push too hard (you have to push pretty hard for this though).
I've drilled in every position and angle as a electrican from deep in a hole my self, to high in the sky on a 165 foot crain lift. The amount of pressure needed in any position is enough to allow the bit to bounce a tiny amount to break up the rock at the tip, but enough to maintain contact so a firm push.
The bigger the diameter the harder it is, especially vertical over head. But with paitence and time, it's not bad at all.
The harder you push the slower it drills because you're damping the impact force. The only pressure you need to put on the drill is enough to keep the hammering action engaged.
I don't know if it's different over here in the UK, but sds plus is the smaller size here.
Yea. SDS plus is normal and SDS max. I may have said this wrong in video. It is correct in bolting bible
two cut drill bits ARE NOT SUITABLE for the tolerances of removable bolts. petzl recommends a 4 cut head only as the hole they create is less oblong and rounder than the hole made by the 2 cut heads.
Their expensive removable bolts do require a 4 point drill bit for sure. All other bolts are not that narrow of tolerances.
Out of curiosity, does a dry core bit (hole saw for rock/cement) do a better tolerance then a fluted drill?
Star drills are amazing but a pain like you said. Gets you out if a jam tho bro :)
I believe everybody should have to drill a hole with a star bit before they're allowed to use the rotohammer, then they'll truly understand the process and appreciate the Aid of technology.
Only the best use *Makita!*
How do?
fixed!
The audio levels are way off. The voice is far lower than the effects and tool sounds.
Heyo! I've got access to a decently high power AMScope (electronics microscope) at work, so if you ever want want to take a closer look at something send it my way!
HMU on messenger at facebook.com/ryan.jenks.35 ... it would be awesome to do some bolt breaks or even slacksnaps.
so this is how all those yosemite bolts were "hand drilled"
Dude.... if you seriously have to make a video explaining how to drill a hole, the people that have to watch it prior to rigging their shit....should not be near a damn cliff.
Where do people learn this stuff if they don't know it???
@@HowNOT2 hell yes. love this reply.
So you think the person that just wings it and assumes they know what they are doing without any research ARE the ones that should be at a cliff installing hardware that you are hanging your stupid life on?