The Most Impressive Printer I've Ever Reviewed - Bambu Lab X1C vs. Easy Threed K9
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- David & Goliath 3D printer style: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon versus Easy Threed K9 Mini 3D printer.
Bambu Lab X1C dedicated video: • Why The Bambu Lab X1 C...
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X: @test_prototype
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And he's back! I love these videos!
Thanks a lot. I won't buy one of these little machines but I love your reviews.
Great fun to watch!
Every youtuber that reviews this thing makes the mistake of using the included filament.. That filament is incredibly inaccurate along its length
Reject filament comes packaged with every machine.
You're better off modding a Ender 2 Pro - it seems to be the printer that Creality forgot about. All it really needed was input shaping to get clean prints. Of course, this would be for those who want to tinker and want open source. The A1 mini has taken the market share now.
That is my go to printer for small prints
My guess from the start is that the cheap machine printed better. x1 carbon is amazing but slower prints are usually better, a 3 hour print from a cheap printer is almost always better than a 10 minute print on the carbon.
No one ever seems to compare apples to apples. Turning the x1 carbon down some would yield a drastically different result. Maybe he is comparing both units with out-of-the-box defaults.
Finally Somebody speaking, I had a similar story with Tom and was blocked like you etc.. etc.. very similar. Blocking you from events is so evil and wrong. Maybe we can team up.... I had a discussion about stupid chocolate printer....
Oh yeah. The newest money maker for tHe ComMuNiTy. I saw the "community organizer" shilling for that project. DM me on X. Let's talk.
Are both machines being compared via 'out-of-the-box' defaults. Tone the X1 Carbon down a bit for a drastically different result. Anyhow, it is nice to see the competition in the industry.
but is it the "best" for the price? you can pick up resin printers today that are around/sub 100$ and yes I HATE resin BUT its will work out of the box no "upgrades" need and it will be the same "print" size / speed (or even faster) the only down side its resin microcenter sale Creality LD-002R for 70$ today so you can just go and pick up printer and print in less then 30Min (if you get microcenter next to you)
I appreciate your deep looks into 3d printers. Nicely done. 👍🏻😉
loved that joke at 44 minutes in about youtube TOS. that makes sense, FOSS life
New challenge expected now building a 3-D printer out of popsicle sticks and barbeque skewers with the cheapest DC motors available 😂
No for real, this could be a real challenge
that's called the hero 101
There's a guy on RUclips who made one out of wood and floppy drive motors, and he just did a benchy a week or two ago that was... benchy-like. He's continually developing it though just as a fun project and it's really cool.
Good job on getting this "Barbie's first 3D printer" to work much better than out of the box! I think this printer ought to come with built-in adjustable sleeve bearings so that you don't have to slice, drill, and add those wires which are a slightly hazardous due to the exposed sharp ends. That shouldn't cost them more than like $1 (at scale) in parts for all of the bearings. Whether or not they smooth the rods before shipping isn't a huge deal, but would have been nice if they came smoothed along the right axis out of the box.
A1 mini would be a better comparison.
I have a few things i wonder:
Can you use Gcode to pause the bed in a better place?
Could firmware keep the backlash in check?
Could gravity keep the bushings from being problematic?
G-Code: Yes.insert an M400 command to pause with the G-Code line previous to the m400 being a movement to the back corner of the bed.
Yes. I believe firmware is keeping the lash in check. I think with each change in direction of an axis The firmware it's winding up an extra millimeter or so of the belt. Of course the belt doesn't move because that extra movement is just what's required to get the gears in the motor primed so that they are physically pushing/pulling the axis with the actual movement commands from the slicer.
Yes, gravity can prevent some of the negative effects from the bushing play. However, if you bump the machine or even the table, it will affect your print quality. Also, when printing at the far edge of the bed, just the force of pushing extruded filament down onto the print can lift the arm. Compound this over many layers and you start to have some serious problems with your print. It is best to tune your machine so that it has the least amount of play/wiggle/lash possible.
AWWWW MAN.....PONYTAIL NOT 'MANBUN'.........Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! P.S. STOPPED WATCHIN TEACH TECH.....
its $100 for the original ender 3 I would just get that!! or the newer ender 3 v3's that are around $200
Link? I will buy a $100 Ender 3. Wait, you can't post a link here. Send it to my email. Click on my channel name you can find my email.
thank you for always trying machines that others wont. long time no see, digging the professor look
So, I could buy 17 of these for the price of an X1?
I can think of a print farm of these babies.
the entire lot might add up to one X1
Yeah, The print farm of them is a bad idea. Bushings everywhere to wear out. Every printer would take hours to modify so that it's producing these results. Actual print time is 1.6x whatever the Cura estimate says.
This printer is absolutely incredible for one specific purpose: A person's first 3D printer. However, for impoverished places in the world, it is still quite viable to get the job done. But Even in those places, it's best (as you said) to just get an X1C instead of wasting so much time trying to run a print farm of these little machines.
Mono price mini delta, $110 fast, nice, delta......rather have that then this 70 dollar one. You may have won the battle but surely have lost the war. You may have just sold 1000 Bambu's , haha. These new 3d printer owners. There is a video out, a tuber that says the only thing he does not like about the x1c is that it is TOO SLOW. This is what you are dealing with.. Side note. it may seem strange but after you work on that machine it will never be worth more than $70 but if you repair your Bambu it is worth 1200, so where you spend you time may matter to some. Remember airwolf ?
I remember airwolf. archive.org/details/ultraman-airwolf-ernest-cline
@@DesignPrototypeTest I recognize a fellow hawk when I see one!
look up the feiyu mini - similar concept and price but using 100% "normal" 3d printer parts - 2020 extrusions, 32bit mainboard, nema17 motors. Assembly is a nightmare, but upgradability is unmatched. You could slap on a $2 ender 3 hotend mounting plate and access that whole ecosystem.
I want to see you tackle a design for the cheapest good printer you can assemble from off the shelf parts. If anyone can, I think it’s the “crazy” guy. I also would love to see what happened to that saphire heated chamber project from a while back, that was a cool idea.
Enjoyed the video - it was fun and informational - amazing what you can get out of a $70 printer these days!
Excellent video
How they can make anything that works for $70 is amazing
Would love to see a similar priced video for a laser cutter that can be converted to a plasma cutter
Cute printer and conversation piece.
Likely $70 better spent on a used Ender 3 Pro on Ebay or brand new Elegoo Neptune 3 on sale.
Nice..just chuck up the rod in a drill...spin it, hit it lightly with high grit 500+ 1000-2000 would be better
Very nice and easy upgrade to tighten up the bushings for the axis to remove slop in the "bearings"
honestly...either an old busted cellphone running Octo4A, or a super cheap orange pi running octoprint would be LIGHTYEARS better than those clicky buttons...
Thanks for this video!
Keep em coming!!!! (but only after you get therapy...LOL)
LOL! I actually lol'd. You got me with the sneak attack last sentence.
Reminds me of a modern version of the 101hero 3D printer lol
Got me hooked on cheap FDM now. But here in Oz shipping can be high.
Time is money, life is short. Always go for the faster option (unless it has significant quality drop). Especially when you wanna learn 3D printing, you want something that is fast and you can test as many things as fast as possible. The price difference is not that important here.
Many people in the world cannot afford a $1,200 printer. Many others have only a single, fun project to do. They don't want to spend such a significant portion of their disposable income on a tool that will be used only one time. In fact, I would say the vast majority of people who are interested in 3D printing fit one of these two categories.
I can definitely see that cheap 3D printer being a good learning project for students
Thank you for the review. Made me understand some a little better.
The seller thought you were Australian with the power supply.
I like buttons 1,2,3,4 for bed leveling, that is a great idea!
Thank you for this video and these clever improvements. I saw an USB wire: have you tried to plug it to a PC and tested a M503 with Repetier to get and to change X and Y travel sizes?
The thought occurred to me to try and save to EEprom like we used to do with Marlin. I kind of suspect this machine is running Klipper . I've actually never touched Klipper so I didn't give that a go. Can you even do the eeprom trick with Klipper?
@@DesignPrototypeTest Thank you for your reply. Yes that was the idea with the EEprom. I don't think it could be Klipper because - as far as I know - Klipper requires a Raspberry Pi (or equivalent) and it needs network connexion. I suspect it should be Marlin (or something else). If it was Klipper, it would be much more easier than the EEprom trick, or than flashing the firmware with Marlin: we would have an access to the Printer Config file to easily change the building area size.
Are you sure the bushing is PTFE??? It looks like nylon. PTFE would've raised the cost significantly.
Good question! It could be a nylon PTFE blend. It wasn't tough enough to be pure nylon.
@@DesignPrototypeTest great video BTW! I watched the entire thing.
My guess would be HDPE - wonderful & cheap material that is easy to injection mold, and is the go-to material in an engineering shop for straight-forward bearing & structural elements - Easy-to-machine ... tough ... not brittle ... immune to common solvents ... good self-lubricating properties ... useful in corrosive marine applications (nylon not dimensionally stable in wet environments) ... readily available in bar or thick sheet form from any plastic supplier. What's not to like? I regard PETG as the 3D filament equivalent.
If easythreed impressed you, look what you'll get with a $130 ender 3 v3 SE 😂😂
That's twice as much money. Will it make a Benchy which is twice as good? I realize this is the internet but your smug insulting attitude is unearned and I don't like you.
@@DesignPrototypeTest im sorry if i offended you, its just the ender 3 V3 series is on a different level use-wise compared to the older ender 3's and your look on the video talking about ender 3 being bad as a whole didnt sit right with me and i understand your only talking about the 1-2 generation of ender 3's but you didn't give credit to the recent releases which imo a good place to start for Beginners without doing any modification once they receive their printer. Its okay if you don't like me, i liked you video, out of all the reviews none of them tried to improve the printer like how you did and to compare it to a bambu lab is hilarious 😂 and the result was astonishing setting aside the speed/the ease of use and the modification.
That carabiner, is the STL online somewhere? Can't seem to dig it up.
I've never posted it. Go become a $1 patreon supporter and I'll give it to you. I need to make the video about it. I'm pretty sure it's strongest 3D Print carabiner design out there.
@@DesignPrototypeTest mmm, okay, I might do that, but I'm not like in some super need of a carabiner right now, the design just looked interesting so I wanted to print it - and yes, it looks strong!
lmfao. "Best consumer printer out there" my Voron 2.4R2 has a major bone to pick with that claim
You think a Voron is a consumer printer? You think the average person who wants to start 3D printing can just buy a Voron kit and get it to work? Even the experts are constantly upgrading/fixing their Vorons. That's not a consumer printer. That's a hobbyist printer. For guys who dont actually want to 3D print. They want to tinker with the printer itself so they can boast that they have the best most customized one out there. Why do you think your apron wearing instructor has the sign that says "only benchies?" It's because that's all you guys print. To you, the printer is the purpose. To the average consumer getting prints done is the purpose. That's why they want to buy a printer. It's an important distinction.
I bought the K9 several weeks ago and found its a okay beginners printer for the low cost.
Not a bad video does have some good info (Liked).
Note IMO the mods he made are basically meaningless without prints made before the mods to compare to so you can see if they made a difference.
I haven't modded mine any and I printed a benchy that looks just as good as his and was dimension accurate.
Just some FYI's:
1.if you get one Read the manual and watch the assembly video first, It addresses several of the issues he showed. Like attaching the spool holder properly.
2. Also it explains the feed & Extraction switch/process, It tells you when extracting it extrudes a little first (its purging) then it reverses and your supposed to gently pull the filament
(Note the unplugging to load the filament was unnecessary it wasn't really being done right.)
Note also the side of the extruder is clear you can see watch the filament going through the gear etc.
3. As for changing the Bowden / PTFE tubing, It doesn't have to be precisely 4mm. Just use the little Philips head screwdriver they give you and loosen the clamp if its too tight to get in or out.
4.When using Cura slicer there should be a file on the micro SD card called (K9.3mf), you have to load that in Cura first to install the K9 printer configuration.
You can then tweak it after that.
5. When leveling/Tramming the bed, Button #1 homes the head first then it moves it to the first leveling position on the bed.
6. The perforated mat, you can get the filament out of the holes fairly simply. You place tape on the mat (I used Fasson Foil Tape, it has a strong adhesive but didn't leave a sticky residue) then pull it off, the filament comes out with it usually. Use some alcohol on it if its stubborn.
7. Put blue painters tape on the mat first then you don't have to worry about filament being in the holes. Use a glue stick if you need extra adhesion. Note remember to relevel the bed after applying tape.
Note there are other mats available, there is also a hot bed upgrade.
You are right about the Reverse Bowden tube. You can simply loosen the screw and clamp whatever size PTFE tube you purchased into position. Thank you for that. I missed that detail.
I have to maintain my insistence about removing the lash in the printer by modifying the bushings. For many reasons it is always the best practice to constrain unwanted movement.
You also made a good point about how I should have printed a Benchy before and after my modifications. If I had done some tests on the base printer this discussion would not be happening. I could have shown the reasons for my modification. i could have displayed the printer displaying better results afterward.
Perhaps if your printer is unmodified you can try the experiment for yourself. Make a large print. Measure Z height and look closely at the layer lines quality at different points on the print. Bump/disturb the printer while it is printing. Do this before and after the modifications. See if there aren't real improvements.
Bambu Shill! 1:03:00 People are still buying the Ender 3 because there are videos of people saying the Ender 3 is great (from 5 years ago).
Really it would make sense for us to all take those videos down, or let people append them with new info, but that's not how RUclips works.
My ender 3 videos get like three views a month. You're probably right though. That's the flywheel in effect I guess. It's not the collective unconsciousness it's just the bulk of media out there on the subject.
Please don’t make us look at your long nails…
I've been practicing clawhammer on my Ukulele. The long nails really help.
You're right, it is almost a Dr. Seuss word. He had a 'thneed' in The Lorax.
What the actual!!!!! mate just NO!
It's a $70 printer that makes fantastic boats. Bro, just YES!
Best video you’ve done in a long time! Miss the RV videos though
Now I know why I didn't sub this channel most 3D printers will always purge before retraction that's a fundamental procedure for most modern printer on the market
Look at me! I got told the answer now I'm going to pretend like I already knew it. I'm so smart. You realize I'm smarter than you are. Right?
Try a brim instead of a raft
Yes. For a normal printer with a flat bed that is capable of being leveled you are right. There is a reason "Raft" was invented. This is it.
@@DesignPrototypeTest oh yeah I forgot about the ribbed bed
They all have there problems .
Yea after building and having vz bots and vorons with ercf the bambu isnt that impressive
"It just works" more than any other printer out there. There are impressive/unique aspects of it such as the lidar. Of course there's room for improvement, and I applaud you pushing back against the runaway success. I also look forward to some other company doing it better in the future. Constant innovation and improvement. Right?
@DesignPrototypeTest it's a cool little tool they released with the ams at a perfect time I also enjoy the building part as well I feel like I know my printer better I got 1 bambu and it's not very user friendly even just to change the belts well tight spots and alot of screws