Hey everyone! I appreciate you checking out the video and hope it provides some insight to this apparently common issue. Since every bike is a bit different I am wondering if I had isolated success here or if this is a legit fix for more bikes. If you end up trying this or something similar I ask you to report back and leave your experience both good or bad in the comments. We could really share some good information here! Thank you!
It's amazing such a tiny limitation in needle movement made such a difference in carburetor performance. What's even more impressive is you spotted that and resolved it like it was a minor issue. Your one hell of a mechanic dude, I wish I could bring my engine/carb/intake/exhaust or just bike in general to your garage. Honestly I'm waiting patiently for the next big project 👌🏼
I think you solved my problem. Will be taking it apart tomorrow I have a jet kit that still uses the same needle and with the plastic spacer it comes with it makes the needle go sideways with pressure so makes total sense that it would be dragging . Thank you sir. I’ll keep you updated
Yeah, I just bought one a couple days ago is exact same thing. I’m afraid to pull apart the carburetor and mess it up and not be able to get it to a shop but I’m gonna give it a try. That’s exactly what’s going on with my bike, it was the bog out and it will stall, I have a brand new carburetor
Hey, this is really, really good. That's how a mechanic should work and sound. I was about to explain about the washer from stock when I heard you mention it. I don't know why it's left off with the jet kit... I thought I lost mine but now I think it didn't come with it as I bought it already modified. I'm about to go back tinkering with it to try improving generally so I'm going to try your mod for sure... Thanks, God bless.
That's good to know, I wish I had known that back when I had a DR650. I ended up replacing the stock carb with a Mikuni pumper, which worked just great, but cost a small fortune!
Great video! In my case I was struggling with similar issues and previous owner had open the airbox (roughly based on Procycle mode) among other mods, and after changing needle setting (from 4 to 5 to 3), changing main jet from 147.5 to 145, making sure everything was 100% clean and no leaks, the bogging was still there, it almost felt like a turbo lag. The last thing I did was close up the airbox partially gave the fuel screw another turn, and it now runs better than ever. With a 14t front sprocket and half throttle I can lift the front up even when sitting near the tank.
Really, really smart thinking outside the box. Analyze and find the flaw. I like 👍 I just bought a new DR so I will be diving into the carb soon, great insight.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I have a lean stumble at the bottom. My plan was to shim the needle up a hair assuming my Canadian model has a non adjustable needle. Hopefully it won't be any issue with the shimming causing the same hang up but now I know what to look out for 👍
I was thinking of doing the same thing to my 01 fz1, it has the same ridge in the slides causing the needles to sit kinda slanted or sideways. I read somewhere that its designed to be that way to prevent the needles from sticking or something therefore I never removed the stock nylon washers under the needles. The bike does have a flatspot from 1500 to 2000 rpm at any throttle opening
I havent looked into the basis for the design but I definitely feel eliminating the side load let's the slides move more freely increasing response. If you do try that let us know how it goes!
Nicely put together ! i have to do a rejetting once new exhaust comes in, this will be a for sure looked at thank you for your effort and tech update !
@@BrickHouseBuilds absolutely! Come by end of April is when we will work on this DR. 2018 with 13000kms. let's see what she looks like a bog thanks and hope this video gets good views !
@@chrisfultz5696 I didn't go through with a exhaust, ended keeping it stock as my friend has one modded and there was no performance difference. I did end up doing the dynojet needle swap with mod in that and the throttle response is fantastic! For what we want out of this bike, it's ideally set up now and super happy. I'm always tossing up videos through my channel with the DR.
@@itsadyerthing when your friend put the aftermarket exhaust time did he already have his carb jetted or did he have a stock car because mine is backfiring and sputtering and I’m pretty sure it’s because they didn’t check the carburetor when they put the new aftermarket exhaust on
Yes, the white plastic D shape spacer that is missing in this bike should be there and it sits down in the opening off the shelf in the slide. That throttle slide is a 3 hole KTM 640 throttle slide.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yup. I have also found out there is disagreement with the drilling of the slide and shortening of the spring due to accelerated wear concerns.
Great video! New subscriber here! I just bought a DR650 a week ago. The only carb mods I've done is remove the snorkel and polish the needle by chucking it up in a drill and spinning it in some fine grit sand paper. I don't know if it's worth doing anything else yet since I still have the stock exhaust. I live up in Troy, MO so if I see you on your KLR I'll try to say hi.
To be fair, any jet kit installed in a DR650 is to get the carb to work the way it SHOULD have when it left the showroom. These bikes come horribly lean from the factory. Damn good detective work on figuring out this issue for your customer. With the slip on and K&N filter already present I would have gone TM40 swap and opened the top of the airbox. That would have transformed the bike into a beast when you want it to be.
I’m bogging hard in 4th and 5th gear. put on fmf p4 muffler and used only the main needle from the dynojet kit. BECAUSE the float bowl screws stripped when I was trying to put the new main jet in. I drilled the extra slide hole next to the needle as well. I obviously need to put the 160 main jet in today before drawing conclusions but I think it’s surging at high rpm
It also hiccups hard at high speed right now and decel backfires like a mf Hopefully with some mixture screw adjusting and getting the main jet in it all goes away
@@BrickHouseBuilds update. I opened it all back up but couldn’t get the bowl open even with screw extractor. So I just settled for shimming the main needle at 2 instead of 4. Got my back bike and then some. No problems currently. Might still rejet when I feel like tackling this retarded screw problem
New update again just in case this is ever helpful to somebody. Currently have dynojet 155main jet and main needle shimmed on 2. Air filter is stock with a 2 inch Hole saw cut out and minus the snorkel. Air/fuel screw is exactly 2 turns out and it’s running like a dream
My own did not have the washer on top of the clip. What about an o ring under the clip as well to cushion so there is no hard contact with metal and plastic, allowing easier flexing... Thanks.
The ProCycle needle kit now comes with a black plastic spacer shaped like a "D" that is about 1/8" thick. Because it's thicker than a washer it probably holds it even better and the D shape locks it into the bottom. Maybe the saw your video?
Well done and I noticed the same issue on my DR650 ! 👍 Ours was running rich smoking black out the exhaust and with some needle & main jet changes got it in order . Ours still has a little backfire in the exhaust like yours at 11:04 when you let off the throttle . I reckon that is normal as the bike seems to perform great in all RPM range ? Are you running 606 Dunlop tires ?
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thank you for the explanation as ours also has an aftermarket muffler so the "popping " when we let off the throttle sounds like it's normal .
Great video.. I just made a shim for my dr650se.. I have the same jet kit as well with a fmf q4.. I will let you know if I notice a difference.. I am having stalling issues more than bogging though.. I am running 160 jet.. my pilot screw is 2.5 turns out.. what is the pilot setting on this bike??? Is popping normal when you are slowing down by down shifting??? New to 4 stroke bikes..
I believe this bike was 3 turns out on the mix. Popping is pretty normal for a bike with open pipes. You can hear this one do the same. I'll be interested to see if you have any positive changes!
Just want to say for anyone, stock carb on the DR like the one in the video does have a decel popping when you let off the the throttle. Only true fix apparently is to do the FCR39-MX carb swap. It has an air cut valve to prevent the decel pop.
My DR bogs slightly more often in third and 4th gear when going steady speeds, it's like it partially loses power and regains it back and forth. I have the Dynojet kit in my carb, a K&N air filter, and a FMF full exhaust. I wonder if doing this will solve my issue as well.
It worked man! It's a totally different bike now, I had my cousin come over and help me get it done. Went to Ace hardware for the o-ring and now it doesn't bog at all.
Hey pal, I’d love your opinion on my DR…mikuni carb, DynoJet kit. My issue is at speeds of 110kph or more, the bike is stumbling, like it’s running out of fuel then comes immediately back. This is a constant thing once I get up over 110kph. Thx so much
@@BrickHouseBuilds anytime I’m at 110kph or ask for anymore, the bike does it constantly, it’s like it’s starving for fuel, the front end drops , speed drops, then picks right back up and goes again, it constantly happens, I cannot maintain any speed over 60mph
@@therookie5263 Any mods on the bike? I wouldn't think it was the fuel tank vent being so consistent. Could very well be jetting but I need to know the mods
May be a little late, but if it has the cuts in the top of the air box and the filter for the slide is close to it sometimes that will cause this. Intake air through the holes will rob the ability of the slide pressure to vent right. I don't know if I'm making any since. Move the slide filter away from the holes. This is the little cylinder shape filter usually between the gas tank and air filter box under the seat.
I just got a brand new dr650 and I seem to be having the exact same issue. Specially from a stop, when I give her some revs to accelerate it Boggs and over all throttle response seems very sluggish. Is also backfires a shit ton on decel. Is this normal for a stock dr650? I heard they run lean stock for emissions but I didn’t think that would cause excessive backfiring. From my research it tells me that the bike is running rich
Im probably not the one to ask on that as this was my only experience with a dr650 from a wrenching perspective. I can say that backfiring and popping is generally a lean condition. Many bikes are lean from the factory and having an aftermarket pipe or filter only adds to that effect
@@BrickHouseBuilds honestly that’s the answer I was looking for. I thought excessive backfire meant that it was running rich but it didn’t make sense based off the conditions and knowing the DRs came lean for emission reasons. I guess one last question. If I enrich the idle control screw will that help top end as well or would I have to upgrade my main jet and needle. Thanks brotha
The idle screw is just for idle rpm. There is the idle mixture screws which helps idle and off idle transition. Anything after that is pilot/needle/main jet
@@BrickHouseBuilds True. I did take out the emissions bs. Did the air box mod that Procycle suggested when doing the kit and went with the 150 main. Im thinking of just getting a new carb all together, either the TM40 or 42. Not sure. Too bad I can't find anyone around here to help.
@@sheepdog819 Probably too late at this point - but if not check this out. There are many out there. You do NOT need a new carb. Like Brick House (kinda) said - I'd love to get my hands on your bike. We'd have her dialed in - no problem... ruclips.net/video/gx7ELm6FbNM/видео.html
@@sheepdog819 Awesome - Good luck - My MIGHTY SUZUKI DR 650 runs like a fucking Swiss Timepiece - I'd put it up against any other - and I knew nothing when I started FWIW !!!!!
the pro cycle jet kit should come with a D shape rubber spacer who fit in the bottom of the slidder , owner most have lost it and replace it with a o ring , main jet should be 145 with stock pipe 150 with after market one and 155 for competition purpus
From what I've looked up the dynojet kit does not come with that type of spacer. This bike has an opened up airbox and loves the 170 main per all my testing and jet changes I've done since this video
Stubbled across this video looking for a solution and want to get your opinion. My dr 650 has fmf exhaust, k&n air filter with cut air box. I have 150 jet and my needle set on the 4th from the top (what jdj jet kit said to do) and sometimes my bike bogs down at low rpm and shuts off. I took it apart today and my needle has the clip and a plastic circle washer thing on it so you think if I grinded down the plastic piece to have a flat spot and put it on top of my clip it’ll preform better ? Also to mention right now my plastic washer is underneath my clip.
So the idea with what I do in this video is to eliminate the possibility of the needle side loading and dragging on the emulsion tube. That drag slows down the motion of the slide. If yours is dragging that may be a fix to try for free.
If you're referring to the decel popping then that's the carb. I don't think it's really audible with a stock muffler which is quiet and not free flowing. The stock BST40 along with the the TM40 will do that, but not the FCR39-MX. It's just part of the DR650. I hated it at first, but started to like it when I could make it a steady popping noise on decel.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Absolutely good to know and much appreciated! Haven't decided yet for Procycle, Dynojet or Six sigma kit for my old rse 93'.. Any suggestions?
Nope, nope, nope. You're off track. You misdiagnosed the cause of the bog to begin with, and then your solution is also fixing the problem by accident. Let me explain: that bog was initially caused by a lean condition upon throttle opening, and not the carb needle hanging up inside the emulsion tube. What you've done by adding that o-ring is you've moved the carb needle up in the emulsion tube about 2 mm (the thickness of the o-ring, in other words), which, because of the taper of the carb needle, allow more fuel to pass around the needle and down into the emulsion tube, richening the air/fuel ratio. This added richness upon first throttle opening fixed the lean bog you experienced. If I'm correct, then you can test what I'm saying by removing the o-ring, and just adjust the position of the needle clip down towards the needle's tip by two positions. Two clip positions will be about the same as the thickness of the o-ring. That will fix your bog issue too. Also, it is impossible for a carb needle to hang up in the emulsion tube like you suggested. If anything it would hang up when releasing the throttle, not applying the throttle because the needle is tapered so that it gets looser and looser as the throttle (air pressure actually, on this type of CV carb) opens. Besides that it is impossible to create such a divet in the needle for it to hang up anyways. There's just no way to mess up a carb needle to have it sticking in the emulsion tube. It's impossible. The angles are all wrong for it to hang up on it's way up the tube. Also, you noticed the slight wear on the sides of the needle. This is normal. It's from the air pressure from the carb throat passing over the needle at high speeds, pushing it sideways and making it rub slightly on the inside of the emulsion tube as it goes in and out. Perfectly normal and expected. I wouldn't replace the needle until you can feel a definite groove on one or both sides with your finger. It will probably never get that bad. The wiggling freeplay back and forth at the needle that you showed, doesn't matter because the needle is always sitting down the middle of the emulsion tube anyways, and can't move side-to-side more than a fraction of a millimeter as it goes up and down.
Sorry man but you are wrong here. I didn't change the needle height. I simply changed the way it was held in place. The slide was dragging and this is a known issue with DR650 emulsion tube wear. The way it was retained caused the delay. The needle needs slack so it doesn't drag. Yes the needles are tapered but not until the lower half. The top half is square where it fits within the tube. This is the same reason it is not simple to add shims to a Keihin CV as the needle retainer is set at a specific height in relation to the needle. If the needle is raised it becomes firm in how its held which binds up in the emulsion tube.
@@BrickHouseBuilds No I'm actually looking into buying a kit and deciding which one to get. In Canada there is a Big sale right now for the Dynojet kit. 50%. Still the procycke kit cost alot more but give u more too (new screws etc...) I like the bike stock but when I look RUclips everyone says that it wake up the bike :D Temptation is high hahaha
Hey everyone! I appreciate you checking out the video and hope it provides some insight to this apparently common issue. Since every bike is a bit different I am wondering if I had isolated success here or if this is a legit fix for more bikes. If you end up trying this or something similar I ask you to report back and leave your experience both good or bad in the comments. We could really share some good information here! Thank you!
That is a great fix. It takes a lot of patience to find fixes for things like that. Thanks for the nice clear demo.
I'm glad it worked out in this case. It seems others in the comments have also tried with success which is awesome!
It's amazing such a tiny limitation in needle movement made such a difference in carburetor performance. What's even more impressive is you spotted that and resolved it like it was a minor issue. Your one hell of a mechanic dude, I wish I could bring my engine/carb/intake/exhaust or just bike in general to your garage. Honestly I'm waiting patiently for the next big project 👌🏼
Well thank ya! I have a bunch of big projects underway at all times so I have plenty of videos to keep ya busy 😉
I'll be checking my needles for irregular wear from now on if I run into fuel issues, would have never guessed!
I think you solved my problem. Will be taking it apart tomorrow I have a jet kit that still uses the same needle and with the plastic spacer it comes with it makes the needle go sideways with pressure so makes total sense that it would be dragging . Thank you sir. I’ll keep you updated
Definitely let us know of there is a change!
Did it solve your problem?
Yeah, I just bought one a couple days ago is exact same thing. I’m afraid to pull apart the carburetor and mess it up and not be able to get it to a shop but I’m gonna give it a try. That’s exactly what’s going on with my bike, it was the bog out and it will stall, I have a brand new carburetor
Hey, this is really, really good. That's how a mechanic should work and sound. I was about to explain about the washer from stock when I heard you mention it. I don't know why it's left off with the jet kit... I thought I lost mine but now I think it didn't come with it as I bought it already modified. I'm about to go back tinkering with it to try improving generally so I'm going to try your mod for sure... Thanks, God bless.
Thank ya! Definitely report back and let us know if there was any positive change or not. Im curious
knowledge, skill, and sound reasoning can fix anything. Great work!
Don't forget luck lol
But thank you much!
That's good to know, I wish I had known that back when I had a DR650. I ended up replacing the stock carb with a Mikuni pumper, which worked just great, but cost a small fortune!
Exactly, good product but sometimes you just don't need to spend that money when a simple solution could have been implemented
Great video! In my case I was struggling with similar issues and previous owner had open the airbox (roughly based on Procycle mode) among other mods, and after changing needle setting (from 4 to 5 to 3), changing main jet from 147.5 to 145, making sure everything was 100% clean and no leaks, the bogging was still there, it almost felt like a turbo lag. The last thing I did was close up the airbox partially gave the fuel screw another turn, and it now runs better than ever. With a 14t front sprocket and half throttle I can lift the front up even when sitting near the tank.
Glad you liked it
Really, really smart thinking outside the box. Analyze and find the flaw.
I like 👍
I just bought a new DR so I will be diving into the carb soon, great insight.
Well thank you! If you find a bog and this fixes it let us know!
@@BrickHouseBuilds
I have a lean stumble at the bottom. My plan was to shim the needle up a hair assuming my Canadian model has a non adjustable needle. Hopefully it won't be any issue with the shimming causing the same hang up but now I know what to look out for 👍
I was thinking of doing the same thing to my 01 fz1, it has the same ridge in the slides causing the needles to sit kinda slanted or sideways. I read somewhere that its designed to be that way to prevent the needles from sticking or something therefore I never removed the stock nylon washers under the needles. The bike does have a flatspot from 1500 to 2000 rpm at any throttle opening
I havent looked into the basis for the design but I definitely feel eliminating the side load let's the slides move more freely increasing response. If you do try that let us know how it goes!
Nicely put together ! i have to do a rejetting once new exhaust comes in, this will be a for sure looked at thank you for your effort and tech update !
If you remember definitely update me on what you find. Vary curious as to how widespread this is
@@BrickHouseBuilds absolutely! Come by end of April is when we will work on this DR. 2018 with 13000kms. let's see what she looks like a bog thanks and hope this video gets good views !
I put a power cord 4 slip on exhaust on the stock head. Do I have to reject the carburetor (DR650, 2005)
@@chrisfultz5696 I didn't go through with a exhaust, ended keeping it stock as my friend has one modded and there was no performance difference. I did end up doing the dynojet needle swap with mod in that and the throttle response is fantastic! For what we want out of this bike, it's ideally set up now and super happy. I'm always tossing up videos through my channel with the DR.
@@itsadyerthing when your friend put the aftermarket exhaust time did he already have his carb jetted or did he have a stock car because mine is backfiring and sputtering and I’m pretty sure it’s because they didn’t check the carburetor when they put the new aftermarket exhaust on
Yes, the white plastic D shape spacer that is missing in this bike should be there and it sits down in the opening off the shelf in the slide. That throttle slide is a 3 hole KTM 640 throttle slide.
Correct, per my looking it seems Dynojet does not use this though. Its a simple yet common issue that seems to plague the DR650 crowd.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Yup. I have also found out there is disagreement with the drilling of the slide and shortening of the spring due to accelerated wear concerns.
@@justgjt I've never drilled a slide or cut springs. Maybe I'm lucky
Great video! New subscriber here! I just bought a DR650 a week ago. The only carb mods I've done is remove the snorkel and polish the needle by chucking it up in a drill and spinning it in some fine grit sand paper. I don't know if it's worth doing anything else yet since I still have the stock exhaust. I live up in Troy, MO so if I see you on your KLR I'll try to say hi.
Well hi neighbor!!! I bet you would see a gain from the needle polish.
Check out the Adventure Palooza ride in September...gotta do it!
Love the maneuverability skills you have!!!! Forget the cones give me 4ft posts!!!
I love doing slow speed stuff like that. Even a stoplight is an opportunity for skill building with no dabs!
To be fair, any jet kit installed in a DR650 is to get the carb to work the way it SHOULD have when it left the showroom. These bikes come horribly lean from the factory. Damn good detective work on figuring out this issue for your customer. With the slip on and K&N filter already present I would have gone TM40 swap and opened the top of the airbox. That would have transformed the bike into a beast when you want it to be.
I’m bogging hard in 4th and 5th gear. put on fmf p4 muffler and used only the main needle from the dynojet kit. BECAUSE the float bowl screws stripped when I was trying to put the new main jet in. I drilled the extra slide hole next to the needle as well. I obviously need to put the 160 main jet in today before drawing conclusions but I think it’s surging at high rpm
It also hiccups hard at high speed right now and decel backfires like a mf Hopefully with some mixture screw adjusting and getting the main jet in it all goes away
Yea you very much need to mess with the actual jets. Be sure to buy a set of JIS screw drivers to eliminate those stripped screws
@@BrickHouseBuilds update. I opened it all back up but couldn’t get the bowl open even with screw extractor. So I just settled for shimming the main needle at 2 instead of 4. Got my back bike and then some. No problems currently. Might still rejet when I feel like tackling this retarded screw problem
New update. 170 jet is too big without serious air intake upgrades
New update again just in case this is ever helpful to somebody.
Currently have dynojet 155main jet and main needle shimmed on 2. Air filter is stock with a 2 inch Hole saw cut out and minus the snorkel. Air/fuel screw is exactly 2 turns out and it’s running like a dream
My own did not have the washer on top of the clip. What about an o ring under the clip as well to cushion so there is no hard contact with metal and plastic, allowing easier flexing... Thanks.
Cool informative video dude. Loving the barrier slalom!! I'd say that's a 'nippy sweetie' (as we say here) of a bike. 😉🏴🤘🙏
I've been wanting to slalom those cones for a long time! That was my first try!
The ProCycle needle kit now comes with a black plastic spacer shaped like a "D" that is about 1/8" thick. Because it's thicker than a washer it probably holds it even better and the D shape locks it into the bottom.
Maybe the saw your video?
No as mentioned the procycle kit is good. This is the way it seems to come from dynojet. The needle side loading causes drag
Well done and I noticed the same issue on my DR650 ! 👍
Ours was running rich smoking black out the exhaust and with some needle & main jet changes got it in order .
Ours still has a little backfire in the exhaust like yours at 11:04 when you let off the throttle . I reckon that is normal as the bike seems to perform great in all RPM range ?
Are you running 606 Dunlop tires ?
The type of pipe really affects the popping. This FMF will always pop. Not sure what tires the customer had
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thank you for the explanation as ours also has an aftermarket muffler so the "popping " when we let off the throttle sounds like it's normal .
I just ordered a JD kit...maybe should of got the procycle as it looks to come with a washer/spacer to fit the recess...hmmm
Well Id be curious to know if this is common. At least you know my concerns on the matter. It may not ever give you trouble though.
Good find.
Good job. Very smart idea. I will look at mine. I've tried everything.
Id be really curious to see if it makes a difference
I just rode it. It fixed it. My needle was doing the same thing. Best video on Dr carbs on RUclips.
@@DC-sh8mr dude thats fantastic to hear!!
This is awesome, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! If you try this please report back to see if its not just an isolated fix.
Great video.. I just made a shim for my dr650se.. I have the same jet kit as well with a fmf q4.. I will let you know if I notice a difference.. I am having stalling issues more than bogging though.. I am running 160 jet.. my pilot screw is 2.5 turns out.. what is the pilot setting on this bike??? Is popping normal when you are slowing down by down shifting??? New to 4 stroke bikes..
I believe this bike was 3 turns out on the mix. Popping is pretty normal for a bike with open pipes. You can hear this one do the same. I'll be interested to see if you have any positive changes!
The pilot should be from 1 3/4 to 2 turns out.....thats why your bike is stalling.....
Just want to say for anyone, stock carb on the DR like the one in the video does have a decel popping when you let off the the throttle. Only true fix apparently is to do the FCR39-MX carb swap. It has an air cut valve to prevent the decel pop.
Video like this resolved issues, great video
Thanks!
Hi mate I really liked the DR video you did very good job can I ask you some information about an FCR for a KLR I need a hand
Thanks! I have no experience with FCR carbs so I'm not sure I could help at all there
Very helpful!!!
Thank you!!!
Not sure if you remember or not. But was the airbox side cover removed while you were test riding it?
That thing just rips compared to mine. I have the same modifications basically. And mine feels almost slower than stock.
Cover was on but the box has some holes drilled
My DR bogs slightly more often in third and 4th gear when going steady speeds, it's like it partially loses power and regains it back and forth. I have the Dynojet kit in my carb, a K&N air filter, and a FMF full exhaust. I wonder if doing this will solve my issue as well.
Id love to hear your results if you tried this
It worked man! It's a totally different bike now, I had my cousin come over and help me get it done. Went to Ace hardware for the o-ring and now it doesn't bog at all.
Hey pal, I’d love your opinion on my DR…mikuni carb, DynoJet kit.
My issue is at speeds of 110kph or more, the bike is stumbling, like it’s running out of fuel then comes immediately back. This is a constant thing once I get up over 110kph. Thx so much
Does that happen constantly at that speed and above or is it come and go? Is that at constant speed or heavy acceleration?
@@BrickHouseBuilds anytime I’m at 110kph or ask for anymore, the bike does it constantly, it’s like it’s starving for fuel, the front end drops , speed drops, then picks right back up and goes again, it constantly happens, I cannot maintain any speed over 60mph
@@therookie5263 Any mods on the bike? I wouldn't think it was the fuel tank vent being so consistent. Could very well be jetting but I need to know the mods
Check fuel filter ????
May be a little late, but if it has the cuts in the top of the air box and the filter for the slide is close to it sometimes that will cause this. Intake air through the holes will rob the ability of the slide pressure to vent right. I don't know if I'm making any since. Move the slide filter away from the holes. This is the little cylinder shape filter usually between the gas tank and air filter box under the seat.
Thanks ...same kit...same problem
Do me a favor and please let me know here if you see a change. Im very curious!
I just got a brand new dr650 and I seem to be having the exact same issue. Specially from a stop, when I give her some revs to accelerate it Boggs and over all throttle response seems very sluggish. Is also backfires a shit ton on decel. Is this normal for a stock dr650? I heard they run lean stock for emissions but I didn’t think that would cause excessive backfiring. From my research it tells me that the bike is running rich
Im probably not the one to ask on that as this was my only experience with a dr650 from a wrenching perspective. I can say that backfiring and popping is generally a lean condition. Many bikes are lean from the factory and having an aftermarket pipe or filter only adds to that effect
@@BrickHouseBuilds honestly that’s the answer I was looking for. I thought excessive backfire meant that it was running rich but it didn’t make sense based off the conditions and knowing the DRs came lean for emission reasons. I guess one last question. If I enrich the idle control screw will that help top end as well or would I have to upgrade my main jet and needle. Thanks brotha
The idle screw is just for idle rpm. There is the idle mixture screws which helps idle and off idle transition. Anything after that is pilot/needle/main jet
@@BrickHouseBuilds much appreciated
I have a 2020 dr650 with 4,000 miles on it with no mods.
What should I do to take the low speed hesitation out of it?
That I don't know. A simple mixture adjustment would be the first place to start though
Nice work great find credit to you. Richie uk
Thank ya! I just hope it helps some people out
@@BrickHouseBuilds I would imagine that could be applied to many different carbs so the more people follow your videos the better.
Well done
Thank ya! Hopefully my argument holds water lol
I wonder if thats why people don't use the spring in the kit and stay with the stock one, seem like I seen someone say this on tt
The spring shouldn't make a difference here its mainly spacing on top the needle to prevent that side loading which drags the slide
@@BrickHouseBuilds I jetted my carb last night and seen exactly what you meant
New owner...vid saved!
👍👍
the stock jets wouldnt be like this though would they?
The stock needle setup is slightly different. The needle was the focus here
I put in the Procycle jet kit and it hasn't ran right since. I have to have it idle high just to stay running.
It could be a few things from mixture screw settings, valve adjustment, or even breather lines but thats hard to help with from here.
@@BrickHouseBuilds True. I did take out the emissions bs. Did the air box mod that Procycle suggested when doing the kit and went with the 150 main. Im thinking of just getting a new carb all together, either the TM40 or 42. Not sure. Too bad I can't find anyone around here to help.
@@sheepdog819 Probably too late at this point - but if not check this out. There are many out there. You do NOT need a new carb. Like Brick House (kinda) said - I'd love to get my hands on your bike. We'd have her dialed in - no problem...
ruclips.net/video/gx7ELm6FbNM/видео.html
@@pilotdane1 it is actually not too late! Thank you!
@@sheepdog819 Awesome - Good luck - My MIGHTY SUZUKI DR 650 runs like a fucking Swiss Timepiece - I'd put it up against any other - and I knew nothing when I started FWIW !!!!!
the pro cycle jet kit should come with a D shape rubber spacer who fit in the bottom of the slidder , owner most have lost it and replace it with a o ring , main jet should be 145 with stock pipe 150 with after market one and 155 for competition purpus
From what I've looked up the dynojet kit does not come with that type of spacer. This bike has an opened up airbox and loves the 170 main per all my testing and jet changes I've done since this video
@@BrickHouseBuilds pezzi.com/pictures/procycle-dr650-jet-kit-instructions-2.jpg
ruclips.net/video/UJbS5zwUTzA/видео.html
I see what you are saying but again this is the dynojet kit not procycle kit. The procycle kit looks superior.
Stubbled across this video looking for a solution and want to get your opinion. My dr 650 has fmf exhaust, k&n air filter with cut air box. I have 150 jet and my needle set on the 4th from the top (what jdj jet kit said to do) and sometimes my bike bogs down at low rpm and shuts off. I took it apart today and my needle has the clip and a plastic circle washer thing on it so you think if I grinded down the plastic piece to have a flat spot and put it on top of my clip it’ll preform better ? Also to mention right now my plastic washer is underneath my clip.
So the idea with what I do in this video is to eliminate the possibility of the needle side loading and dragging on the emulsion tube. That drag slows down the motion of the slide. If yours is dragging that may be a fix to try for free.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks man really hoping this fixes it. I will be trying tomorrow so I’ll let you know
The motor still burbles upon deceleration. Watts that all about?
It having a large open pipe
If you're referring to the decel popping then that's the carb. I don't think it's really audible with a stock muffler which is quiet and not free flowing. The stock BST40 along with the the TM40 will do that, but not the FCR39-MX. It's just part of the DR650. I hated it at first, but started to like it when I could make it a steady popping noise on decel.
Thank's!
I hope it helps!
@@BrickHouseBuilds Absolutely good to know and much appreciated!
Haven't decided yet for Procycle, Dynojet or Six sigma kit for my old rse 93'..
Any suggestions?
I don't have any guidance there. As I mentioned this is the only 650 I've worked on so I don't have any further experience with other kits on these.
Nope, nope, nope. You're off track. You misdiagnosed the cause of the bog to begin with, and then your solution is also fixing the problem by accident. Let me explain: that bog was initially caused by a lean condition upon throttle opening, and not the carb needle hanging up inside the emulsion tube. What you've done by adding that o-ring is you've moved the carb needle up in the emulsion tube about 2 mm (the thickness of the o-ring, in other words), which, because of the taper of the carb needle, allow more fuel to pass around the needle and down into the emulsion tube, richening the air/fuel ratio. This added richness upon first throttle opening fixed the lean bog you experienced. If I'm correct, then you can test what I'm saying by removing the o-ring, and just adjust the position of the needle clip down towards the needle's tip by two positions. Two clip positions will be about the same as the thickness of the o-ring. That will fix your bog issue too.
Also, it is impossible for a carb needle to hang up in the emulsion tube like you suggested. If anything it would hang up when releasing the throttle, not applying the throttle because the needle is tapered so that it gets looser and looser as the throttle (air pressure actually, on this type of CV carb) opens. Besides that it is impossible to create such a divet in the needle for it to hang up anyways. There's just no way to mess up a carb needle to have it sticking in the emulsion tube. It's impossible. The angles are all wrong for it to hang up on it's way up the tube.
Also, you noticed the slight wear on the sides of the needle. This is normal. It's from the air pressure from the carb throat passing over the needle at high speeds, pushing it sideways and making it rub slightly on the inside of the emulsion tube as it goes in and out. Perfectly normal and expected. I wouldn't replace the needle until you can feel a definite groove on one or both sides with your finger. It will probably never get that bad.
The wiggling freeplay back and forth at the needle that you showed, doesn't matter because the needle is always sitting down the middle of the emulsion tube anyways, and can't move side-to-side more than a fraction of a millimeter as it goes up and down.
Sorry man but you are wrong here. I didn't change the needle height. I simply changed the way it was held in place. The slide was dragging and this is a known issue with DR650 emulsion tube wear. The way it was retained caused the delay. The needle needs slack so it doesn't drag. Yes the needles are tapered but not until the lower half. The top half is square where it fits within the tube. This is the same reason it is not simple to add shims to a Keihin CV as the needle retainer is set at a specific height in relation to the needle. If the needle is raised it becomes firm in how its held which binds up in the emulsion tube.
Does anyone just make a better carburetor for this bike?
I think there are multiple options
So this dynojet kit is flawed... bummer
It may be. I don't understand why they set it up like they do. Needle wear is a real thing on these bikes. Are you having similar issues?
@@BrickHouseBuilds No I'm actually looking into buying a kit and deciding which one to get. In Canada there is a Big sale right now for the Dynojet kit. 50%. Still the procycke kit cost alot more but give u more too (new screws etc...) I like the bike stock but when I look RUclips everyone says that it wake up the bike :D Temptation is high hahaha
@@87Sakiel personally id go procycle if you do buy a kit