Handful of things so you don't waste time Don't reuse any gaskets ever. You are right though single ply ones suck. Try to find an oem MLS to replace. They aren't expensive I saw you have a new cylinder. Thank God that old one is probably all sorts of out of spec and ill bet has no cross hatching and grooves. But make sure you chek your ring gap. Its very easy just RUclips it. And go slow. Can't add material but you can always take more away. Number three others already said it. Rods shouldn't move much. There should be specs in the manual for acceptable play. A little wobble doesn't matter. But it would suck to do all the work, start it up, and it has rod knock Number three, go to harbor freight grab their heated large ultra sonic cleaner and toss the carb in there. Use carb cleaner in the ports, and brass nozzle jets. If you can blow compressed air through the brass jets after. AND DO NOT GET ANY CARB CLEANER ON ANY RUBBER GASKETS SEALS OR ORINGS. they will swell become brittle and deteriorate. You'll need a float bowl gasket at a minimum. Finally, get a new air filter and spark plug. Go enjoy
I'm thinking of ring gaps and piston orientation, front and rear to some pistons or the valves will hit. Looked like everything was loctite'd the way things snapped loose. Do a homemade valve job and new seals.
If it does have rod knock then the whole things gotta come out and theres a lot of work and money to get it back up and running. Might as well try what hes doing and if it does need a full rebuild then he can take it from there.
Wouldn't hurt to lap the valves. In older engines like this and not very high performance you can get away alot more with cheaper fixes. But certain things you can't. To check valves, flip the head upside down, spray a puddle of brake clean in the dish of the head with the valves closes. Of you don't leak any fluid, you're good to go! Which I thought I saw him do.... or I'm vaguely remembering a different video I saw on another channel haha
@@bumtracksNew true. Usually thats clearly illustrated in the literature though so as long as he goes step by step no big. It doesn't always explain ring gap though. Just the specs.
Reminds me of my full rebuild on my '71 SL350.. New Pistons, Rings, I honed the bores, New gaskets, seals, clutch, electronic ignition to replace the points.. I tore it down and rebuilt it and learned to ride it lol, my first bike.
this is underrated content. More you tubers need to be like you and just try to work on their bikes. I know so many people that say "i have no clue what to do or how to do it" when its literally just unbolting and bolting back on. props to you for having that service manual
Dude, you're gonna have such an intimate relationship with the DR now.. working on your own bike always increases the love! Sounds weird but you know what I mean👍👌👌
To prevent knuckle busting always try and push your ratchet and use an open palm like you did when you broke the timing chain loose. Keep up the good work man. I’ve been rocking the OG “go ahead and take it easy hoodie” for like 3-4 years. Cheah! 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
I believe that black gasket material you saw on the rocker cover is factory Suzuki Bond. I'm a Suzuki Marine tech. Maybe I'm mistaken but, You'll know upon reading reassemble in the manual. That's a zero tolerance surface. Thus the reason there's no gasket. Keep up the good effort. Watch your Damm knuckles!
I think the bike was running rich and built up so much carbon over time that a hard bit broke off and got caught in the rings causing the damage to the cylinder wall. New cylinder sleeve if they have them or head, new rings to be safe, but you could have gotten away with cleaning and polishing the piston, but why not replace it, not to expensive I wouldn't think. Doing a great job though Derek 👍
@@bakerXderek the play is possibly the shell bearing at the big end and crankshaft, but it could also be fine. It may have been engineered to have that play, but the piston should stop it moving side to side. It might be worth replacing the shell bearing to be sure. It should be an easy job to do, sump off, two nuts on the big end and lift the piston out, cover bearing in engine oil when reassembling.
I did a DR200 top end last year and it's an easy bike to work on. Don't worry about the mismatched bolts on the head studs that's normal, which ones go where should be visible in the service manual pictures. I think they're supposed to be diagonal? Also when you go to reassemble those tiny fasteners holding the cylinder on by the chain tensioner (the ones by the displacement number) be really careful. They have a very tiny torque spec and snap easy... or at least mine did. Make sure you reset the tensioner too.
outstanding!!! looks like too much slop in that rod for my peace of mind, and probably what caused the damage to the piston and bore, pull the engine off the frame, split the case and go through the entire engine, new clutch plates and springs, new oem gaskets
Damn... I remember when you got this.. The very first bid I saw was when the old bowling alley burned on Highland by the CHP.. I believe you were at the mansion hill top when you saw the smoke? Good ol days.... Been with the Cheah!!! Squad since the Ah Real Good!! Ol days.
@@bakerXderek One of my favorite memories is when you and Arson drove in front of the pad on Marshall and my son motioned to "rev it" and you both did... That shit was dope bro!!
Baker I'm so glad to see you doing this. I'm so glad to see you taking this project on and learning as its a great experience for your viewers and I'm proud of you that you are giving your channel and your bikes the time of day. Your an OG and your views may be down I still watch your videos on the reg. Keep up the hard work man and I hope to see your shit on that trending ASAP. Cheah!
You should stick a Lectron carb on there while you have it all torn apart. If they have one for your bike you wouldn't have to worry about adjusting anything anymore.
Hey Derek. Hi from the UK. Throw in a new cam chain tensioner just for good measure my friend. Looked to be at its fullest adjustment. Anyway, enjoy the rebuild!! 😁
Release the cam chain tension with the tensioner on the cylinder when you put it back together. Pop the middle 10mm on the tensioner and use a small flat screwdriver to release tension turning counter clockwise. Makes it possible to find cam timing with the crank upon reassembly a lot easier without marring the cam journals.
Assembly lube is not for the piston!!! Use motor oil. You can end up with clogged piston rings. Assembly lube tends to just burn and get carbonated in the piston rings because it is so sicky. Check engine compression after a short heat cycle and 1000miles later if it goes up you are fine but if it drops you need to clean out the piston rings ore you will head into new problems.
Sweet ,progress is fast bud ,you will have that up and running in no time ,just make sure you check the piston arm and bottom end for play ,great vid 👍
I have a 97 dr350R, love it and i also have a DG muffler on it. stupid easy motors to work on compared to others, and bulletproof if ya keep oil in it. Good luck brotha, im sure youll get her to puuuuuur. Also, I have to check my rocker to valve lash often on her, not sure if your 200 is the same way but something to keep in mind.
That rod wobble could be what scored up the cylinder wall to begin with. I would see about replacing the rod bearing or getting a whole new rod and crankshaft.
If you want to do a cheap big bore kit get a lt230 piston, sleeve, and head. You might have to shave the head though to up compression. There's more info on the interwebs. Or if you're lucky and can find an lt250s piston that would be your best bet. Cams for the 230 and 250 also work well with these motors.
You’re doing a great job! Is the connecting rod sliding on the crankshaft or is that actual wiggle? You want zero wiggle with the con-rod but some sliding room is ok. And the liquid gasket that was on the top cover was ok. Kawasaki switched over to That type of sealant over a gasket on crankcases a few years back. Anyways, keep up the great work. Can’t wait for the next video!!
wow its going pretty smooth for a newbie at rebuilds. don't ever Ever EVER reuse gaskets. true 1 ply gaskets suck but they'll still compress way more then a used one ever will. double check the piston is on the right way if its got an orientation, some don't. cant physically inspect anything so best guess is the ring slots wore out/failed/overheated and let one of the rings start twisting making them grind on the cylinder wall
Smash that hole with a torx bit 😏 She’ll come out real nice just make sure you find a bit slightly larger than the hole and hammer it in usually your last resort when you have something stripped like that. Also try using heat like a blowtorch on the dowel pin just a suggestion
I'm going to second what Eric Miko posted about double checking how much that Rod is supposed to move. It look like way to much for my blood! Good Luck getting her breathing fire once more!
Re: the engine case plug - drill out two holes on each side of the stripped area, then you can put a pair of bolts through to brace a prybar, then reef on it. Check out this video, same thing happened here ruclips.net/video/oVMvAWQKl-0/видео.html
When you put that plug back in just tickle it with a little anti-seize compound and it won't get stuck like that. I like the Permatex brand myself. When you use it put the cap back on tight and store the bottle upside down. The shit will last forever. Just use a little! Just enough to coat the threads. Those are dissimilar metals that's why the seize up like that. Never ever ever reuse a head or cylinder gasket. It just ain't worth it. You DO NOT want to tear all that down again. Glad to see you wrenching on your shit. You're a smart guy you can do it. Take care.
May as well order a new cam chain tensioner as well. They like to stretch on these and eventually lose timing and make a terrible “ping-ping-ping” sound that is the chain slapping against the case. You can get a new adjustable one for pretty cheap. Might as well because you’re already committed this far.
I had a super clean one, probably the worst dirt bike I had. Was great on the road. My homie ate shit hard on it hitting the whoops lol bounced all over
I miss my ol 11' DR650SE . It was a great bike . But I love my 02 Fz1 . It's much better suited for where I ride considering the trails around here were all barbed wired and fenced off . Someone even set up barbwire across a powerline trail and the only thing that stopped me from being decapitated was the space between the fender and the headlight fairing stopping the barbwire from going over the headlight fairing . I hit at like 35mph and superman through the air and landed upside down on my neck . I was lucky I wasn't paralyzed.
BEFORE YOU PUT THE TOP END ON!!! Grab the rod and move it up and down as well as side to side. Make sure it doesn't have a lot of play or is clanking around. That'll indicate a bad bottom end bearing.
you know you really should have done a home cylinder hone job on that jug and atleast checked the ring gap on those new rings its easy takes a few minutes but i wont break your ball too hard for being a newb i still commend you for doing this yourself it really is fun working on your own shit and learning in the process, keep it up BxD
Pretty sure the connecting rod bearing is toast. If you reassemble and run it like that, it's going to destroy all of your new parts and hard work. I commented on your last vid that you may have spun a rod bearing. The rod bearing looks and works like a bushing. It's located on the crankshaft where the connecting rod clamps on. Google it or search RUclips, you'll see what I'm talking about.
No chance, that was a totally normal colour for the valves. Looks like a perfect tan. From what i saw of the piston it didnt show the marks of heat damage, just skirt scoring. Id say just worn out. I set my one up with a wideband and the valves look about the same set up to run slightly rich
i think your rod bearings are too small if you heard knocking its probely due to that you shouldnt be able to move the rod side to side text in rod knocking and rod clearce check if your in doubt of what im talking abouut
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MUSIC:
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43 - dont be
Handful of things so you don't waste time
Don't reuse any gaskets ever. You are right though single ply ones suck. Try to find an oem MLS to replace. They aren't expensive
I saw you have a new cylinder. Thank God that old one is probably all sorts of out of spec and ill bet has no cross hatching and grooves. But make sure you chek your ring gap. Its very easy just RUclips it. And go slow. Can't add material but you can always take more away.
Number three others already said it. Rods shouldn't move much. There should be specs in the manual for acceptable play. A little wobble doesn't matter. But it would suck to do all the work, start it up, and it has rod knock
Number three, go to harbor freight grab their heated large ultra sonic cleaner and toss the carb in there. Use carb cleaner in the ports, and brass nozzle jets. If you can blow compressed air through the brass jets after. AND DO NOT GET ANY CARB CLEANER ON ANY RUBBER GASKETS SEALS OR ORINGS. they will swell become brittle and deteriorate. You'll need a float bowl gasket at a minimum.
Finally, get a new air filter and spark plug. Go enjoy
Eric Miko good advice man 👨🏻
I'm thinking of ring gaps and piston orientation, front and rear to some pistons or the valves will hit. Looked like everything was loctite'd the way things snapped loose. Do a homemade valve job and new seals.
If it does have rod knock then the whole things gotta come out and theres a lot of work and money to get it back up and running. Might as well try what hes doing and if it does need a full rebuild then he can take it from there.
Wouldn't hurt to lap the valves. In older engines like this and not very high performance you can get away alot more with cheaper fixes. But certain things you can't. To check valves, flip the head upside down, spray a puddle of brake clean in the dish of the head with the valves closes. Of you don't leak any fluid, you're good to go! Which I thought I saw him do.... or I'm vaguely remembering a different video I saw on another channel haha
@@bumtracksNew true. Usually thats clearly illustrated in the literature though so as long as he goes step by step no big. It doesn't always explain ring gap though. Just the specs.
Friend: Bro she nasty
Him: How nasty?
Friend: Reused headgasket nasty
Him: Ohh that's nasty
Anyone else read this in Cleveland Browns voice ?
me
Just like reusing a condom for your tip. 😂
@@Chromosome1919
Mushroom shaped condom for us well endowed fellows. It's all in the head!
This series had me realize how long I've been watching your videos, here's to many more years of O.G. motovlogs!!!
CHEAH !
getting close to firing that thing up and getting to the san bernaghetto trails👌👌👌👌
So stoked on some ghettacular explorations!
Tweah👌🏻
RUclips is high on something today. Its recommending me a super old video of you showing how to play guitar with one hand lol
Lmao
Side to side play is normal on the rod up and down play on the rod when you hold the crank still means your bottom end is shot
Reminds me of my full rebuild on my '71 SL350.. New Pistons, Rings, I honed the bores, New gaskets, seals, clutch, electronic ignition to replace the points.. I tore it down and rebuilt it and learned to ride it lol, my first bike.
Respect 🙏🏻👌🏻
Saw that knucklebuster coming with the small ratchet. Always plan where your hand will go once it breaks free. It'll save your pecker wreckers.
He should maybe get a longer set of ratchets as well
Man I'm loving this series, can't wait for the next episode. 👌
CHEAH !
this is underrated content. More you tubers need to be like you and just try to work on their bikes. I know so many people that say "i have no clue what to do or how to do it" when its literally just unbolting and bolting back on. props to you for having that service manual
i literally paused this cause "i'm going to reuse this".. NO. MLS gaskets are NOT reusable bro. get new. always. no questions
Second that I’ve made that mistake before
Ahhh ok lol i'll order one up
Funny how some people seems too follow guidelines as if they are the 10 commandments..xD
best content on youtube right now I've been watching for years I'm so stoked on this!
Dude, you're gonna have such an intimate relationship with the DR now.. working on your own bike always increases the love! Sounds weird but you know what I mean👍👌👌
While you’re cracking it open, you should go ahead and check your valve clearances.
To prevent knuckle busting always try and push your ratchet and use an open palm like you did when you broke the timing chain loose. Keep up the good work man. I’ve been rocking the OG “go ahead and take it easy hoodie” for like 3-4 years. Cheah! 👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
One step at a time. Looking good. It does suck to have to wait for parts, but it is better than taking it back apart later.
I believe that black gasket material you saw on the rocker cover is factory Suzuki Bond. I'm a Suzuki Marine tech. Maybe I'm mistaken but, You'll know upon reading reassemble in the manual. That's a zero tolerance surface. Thus the reason there's no gasket. Keep up the good effort. Watch your Damm knuckles!
I think the bike was running rich and built up so much carbon over time that a hard bit broke off and got caught in the rings causing the damage to the cylinder wall. New cylinder sleeve if they have them or head, new rings to be safe, but you could have gotten away with cleaning and polishing the piston, but why not replace it, not to expensive I wouldn't think. Doing a great job though Derek 👍
I'm really hoping the rod isn't fucked.
@@bakerXderek the play is possibly the shell bearing at the big end and crankshaft, but it could also be fine. It may have been engineered to have that play, but the piston should stop it moving side to side.
It might be worth replacing the shell bearing to be sure. It should be an easy job to do, sump off, two nuts on the big end and lift the piston out, cover bearing in engine oil when reassembling.
I did a DR200 top end last year and it's an easy bike to work on. Don't worry about the mismatched bolts on the head studs that's normal, which ones go where should be visible in the service manual pictures. I think they're supposed to be diagonal? Also when you go to reassemble those tiny fasteners holding the cylinder on by the chain tensioner (the ones by the displacement number) be really careful. They have a very tiny torque spec and snap easy... or at least mine did. Make sure you reset the tensioner too.
outstanding!!!
looks like too much slop in that rod for my peace of mind, and probably what caused the damage to the piston and bore, pull the engine off the frame, split the case and go through the entire engine, new clutch plates and springs, new oem gaskets
I own a 2004 DR200. Great videos. Hopefully I won't have to tackle this too soon, but great watching you go through it.
This is pretty dope. I’d be interested in seeing more maintenance videos from you in the future. Keep on keepin’ on, man. 🤘
Damn... I remember when you got this.. The very first bid I saw was when the old bowling alley burned on Highland by the CHP.. I believe you were at the mansion hill top when you saw the smoke? Good ol days.... Been with the Cheah!!! Squad since the Ah Real Good!! Ol days.
Been a REAAAL long time.
@@bakerXderek One of my favorite memories is when you and Arson drove in front of the pad on Marshall and my son motioned to "rev it" and you both did... That shit was dope bro!!
Baker I'm so glad to see you doing this. I'm so glad to see you taking this project on and learning as its a great experience for your viewers and I'm proud of you that you are giving your channel and your bikes the time of day. Your an OG and your views may be down I still watch your videos on the reg. Keep up the hard work man and I hope to see your shit on that trending ASAP. Cheah!
Means a lot man thanks !
I haven't replayed your intros this much since "Mi Gusta".
You should stick a Lectron carb on there while you have it all torn apart. If they have one for your bike you wouldn't have to worry about adjusting anything anymore.
I'll check them out.
Man you get this running you need to go to mansion hill top... hit some of those old trails too 👌 cheah!
So glad your finally doing this were all here to help ya out if you get stuck
thanks man
Nice to see you bustin some mechanical ropes. Excited to see the DR come back to life. 👌
You handle the head real nice.
Oh ya baby
I remember you and Jacob doing some crazy adventures with that bike years ago
Keen for some new old dual sport adventures.
Loving this series! More please!
Hey Derek. Hi from the UK. Throw in a new cam chain tensioner just for good measure my friend. Looked to be at its fullest adjustment. Anyway, enjoy the rebuild!! 😁
Release the cam chain tension with the tensioner on the cylinder when you put it back together. Pop the middle 10mm on the tensioner and use a small flat screwdriver to release tension turning counter clockwise. Makes it possible to find cam timing with the crank upon reassembly a lot easier without marring the cam journals.
You should change your timing tensioner guides
Hell yeah bro your making good progress. You’ll get it.
On today's episode of Mushroom Tip rebuild, Derek grunts while lubing and breaking loose the nuts. Yeeeeeaaaaahhhh!!! 👌
Love the series. Very inspirational.
:)
Great vid man!! Can’t wait to see you back on the DR hitting the hills
Assembly lube is not for the piston!!! Use motor oil. You can end up with clogged piston rings. Assembly lube tends to just burn and get carbonated in the piston rings because it is so sicky. Check engine compression after a short heat cycle and 1000miles later if it goes up you are fine but if it drops you need to clean out the piston rings ore you will head into new problems.
Sweet ,progress is fast bud ,you will have that up and running in no time ,just make sure you check the piston arm and bottom end for play ,great vid 👍
Hell yea! Get it going again man. Brings back some memories
Anyone who says the rod is bad needs to educate themself. Side to side play is NORMAL. Stop feeding false into to someone who is new and learning.
“This Tiny bit of play shouldn’t be a big deal” ... wiggles the con rod 1/4 inch.... lol. I hope this works out well. 👍 I like your style BTW....
This shits already rebuilt with almost 2000 miles on it.....
De-glazing the bore is a REALLY GOOD IDEA
Stay with it, D! It’s gonna be Great! 👌😃
I have a 97 dr350R, love it and i also have a DG muffler on it. stupid easy motors to work on compared to others, and bulletproof if ya keep oil in it. Good luck brotha, im sure youll get her to puuuuuur. Also, I have to check my rocker to valve lash often on her, not sure if your 200 is the same way but something to keep in mind.
Bakerxmechanic! This is awesome bro! Keep it going! 👌
Thank you for giving me something to look forward to during these FUCKED times.
Loving this series! Love the DR.
Proud of you bud.
That rod wobble could be what scored up the cylinder wall to begin with. I would see about replacing the rod bearing or getting a whole new rod and crankshaft.
go up a jet size in the carburetor, could lower the cylinder temperature, so that the piston doesn't over heat and score the cylinder wall.
If you want to do a cheap big bore kit get a lt230 piston, sleeve, and head. You might have to shave the head though to up compression. There's more info on the interwebs. Or if you're lucky and can find an lt250s piston that would be your best bet. Cams for the 230 and 250 also work well with these motors.
Looking good bro 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Its about time you get down and fixed the 200 bro. cheah!
That smooth intro 👌
You’re doing a great job! Is the connecting rod sliding on the crankshaft or is that actual wiggle? You want zero wiggle with the con-rod but some sliding room is ok. And the liquid gasket that was on the top cover was ok. Kawasaki switched over to That type of sealant over a gasket on crankcases a few years back. Anyways, keep up the great work. Can’t wait for the next video!!
thanks man, i'll double check that rod.
Yeah this head must use a sealant since the cam caps are part of the cover.
Yay... the big wrench.. 👌
The saga continues..... rise of the DRZ200! 👌🏍
Finally getting the DR200 back on them streets! CHEAH!
Bro I remember when you put the exhaust on and rode around the abandoned shopping mall/parking lot.
😋👌🏼 I have faith on you bxd this dr is gonna run and have new adventures soon I know you can do it I'm cheahing for you bro
wow its going pretty smooth for a newbie at rebuilds. don't ever Ever EVER reuse gaskets. true 1 ply gaskets suck but they'll still compress way more then a used one ever will. double check the piston is on the right way if its got an orientation, some don't. cant physically inspect anything so best guess is the ring slots wore out/failed/overheated and let one of the rings start twisting making them grind on the cylinder wall
Smash that hole with a torx bit 😏 She’ll come out real nice just make sure you find a bit slightly larger than the hole and hammer it in usually your last resort when you have something stripped like that. Also try using heat like a blowtorch on the dowel pin just a suggestion
You forgot the part where you removed the other two bolts the manual told you not to remove for the cover :)
I'm going to second what Eric Miko posted about double checking how much that Rod is supposed to move. It look like way to much for my blood! Good Luck getting her breathing fire once more!
Re: the engine case plug - drill out two holes on each side of the stripped area, then you can put a pair of bolts through to brace a prybar, then reef on it. Check out this video, same thing happened here
ruclips.net/video/oVMvAWQKl-0/видео.html
I'm actually gonna have to do that
Let us know how it works out!
Great idea!
When you put that plug back in just tickle it with a little anti-seize compound and it won't get stuck like that. I like the Permatex brand myself. When you use it put the cap back on tight and store the bottle upside down. The shit will last forever. Just use a little! Just enough to coat the threads. Those are dissimilar metals that's why the seize up like that. Never ever ever reuse a head or cylinder gasket. It just ain't worth it. You DO NOT want to tear all that down again. Glad to see you wrenching on your shit. You're a smart guy you can do it. Take care.
doing a good job man !!
May as well order a new cam chain tensioner as well. They like to stretch on these and eventually lose timing and make a terrible “ping-ping-ping” sound that is the chain slapping against the case. You can get a new adjustable one for pretty cheap. Might as well because you’re already committed this far.
Intro was 🔥
intro tune is DOPE BOIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
I had a super clean one, probably the worst dirt bike I had. Was great on the road. My homie ate shit hard on it hitting the whoops lol bounced all over
Man the intro music got me vibing !
Sometimes I go to old uploads just to see the intro!
keep up the good work buddy. it'll be ready to rip in no time!
Hopefully !
Don’t reuse gaskets!
I never expected fixing an engine would involve so much hitting it with a hammer 😂
I miss my ol 11' DR650SE . It was a great bike . But I love my 02 Fz1 . It's much better suited for where I ride considering the trails around here were all barbed wired and fenced off . Someone even set up barbwire across a powerline trail and the only thing that stopped me from being decapitated was the space between the fender and the headlight fairing stopping the barbwire from going over the headlight fairing . I hit at like 35mph and superman through the air and landed upside down on my neck . I was lucky I wasn't paralyzed.
Dam bro, I'm excited for you. I really wanna here her run again. CHEAH!!!!
Me too
BEFORE YOU PUT THE TOP END ON!!! Grab the rod and move it up and down as well as side to side. Make sure it doesn't have a lot of play or is clanking around. That'll indicate a bad bottom end bearing.
intro is fire
You should open up your own garage and call it “mushroom tip garage” and what is wrong with the engine ?
Aaron Mills it busted one to many nuts 🥜
Engine broke
you know you really should have done a home cylinder hone job on that jug and atleast checked the ring gap on those new rings its easy takes a few minutes but i wont break your ball too hard for being a newb i still commend you for doing this yourself it really is fun working on your own shit and learning in the process, keep it up BxD
But I have a new cylinder
@@bakerXderek oh ok awesome
Enjoying this with some nice vegan ben and jerry
Sorry normal one sold out
Those rings were stuck, they should spring back out
Stuck cos of all the blowby tho, so gona want new ones (can get new rings for $5 lol)
Pretty sure the connecting rod bearing is toast. If you reassemble and run it like that, it's going to destroy all of your new parts and hard work. I commented on your last vid that you may have spun a rod bearing. The rod bearing looks and works like a bushing. It's located on the crankshaft where the connecting rod clamps on. Google it or search RUclips, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Side to side play is normal.
Notice how the exhaust valve had a white tint, that bike ran extremely lean at some point. Thats why it blew up🤙
No chance, that was a totally normal colour for the valves. Looks like a perfect tan. From what i saw of the piston it didnt show the marks of heat damage, just skirt scoring. Id say just worn out. I set my one up with a wideband and the valves look about the same set up to run slightly rich
Get your self an impact wrench makes life easy
Need to get you a flex hone aka digleberry hone for the cylinder walls.
Great work bro I knew you could to do it I’m proud of you. Cheeeeeaaaaaahhhhhh
:)
@bakerxderek, man ive enjoyed these vids!! Good stuff
Don't reuse head gaskets. They might not look "ripped" but that's because it's not a normal gasket. They crush to seal and are one time use
i think your rod bearings are too small if you heard knocking its probely due to that you shouldnt be able to move the rod side to side
text in rod knocking and rod clearce check if your in doubt of what im talking abouut
I was about to say maybe u should use a bigger ratchet 😂 but he pulled it out
If you need help or just a question about the bike you should hit up Jakethegardensnake he should be able to help ya out.
He's my friend
@@bakerXderek but... He's literally a snake
@@dirtydoigler2116
bakerXdolittle
I had an 81 DR500 when I was like 16.
Only true O.G'S know about the dr200