With the years of trail bashing my poor '95 has seen and running oversized MT tires, I'm just happy it goes down the road with what little vibration it does have! 😄 After bashing along on a really bumpy trail and back onto pavement, I always think to myself "Wow, I'm amazed how smooth this thing feels after all that punishment!"
Lifted my 110 Defender 1.5" using old man emu suspension, I got a vibration and noise when on a neutral throttle, on the gas it was OK, off the gas it was OK but really bad mid way. Ended up realising that suspension movement changes the diff angle, mine was much better when loaded, in the end I fitted similar spacers to you, mine were genuine LR and intended for the 90 when fitted with H/D suspension at the factory, it cured mine 95% but it's still there a bit, a Gwyn Lewis prop also helped a little , I suspect the rear diff pinion isn't in the best of health. It's hard to find decent advice, one very well known manufacturer of cranked rear arms assured me that diff nose angle doesn't change during suspension travel.... He was wrong. It's also worth making sure that the prop U/j's are good as I've had a similar problem with a siezed rear uj that only showed up when I removed the prop. 👍
Replace bushings in front radius arms and install standard bushing without mid size tube. Make sure your central diff lock housing front shaft output has no wear. otherwise front diff flange will be loose and front shaft will give you vibrations. AFAIR double cardan needs to go to the LT230 and front in line with axle casing. then double compensate angle of LT230 and front is parallel to front axle pinion. Consider going for rubber type coupling on rear diff as it will eliminate any issues with angle on rear and should act as sort of vibration damper.
Yes. It will cure root cause assuming double cardan will face LT230 (so front prop shaft to be installed opposite). However note bushings on frond radius also matter how it transfer vibrations ( i see you push in double sleeved bushings which is not good) . Double check front flange play on LT230. I know the bearing is with extra float etc. but it needs to be super tight in the end. Otherwise centre diff casing (FTC5207) require replacement as intermediate shaft is loose on the splines.
@@unclesam44 I will align the axle and see if that helps and then maybe change the bushings back to poly and see if that helps. The transfer box is a new one so should be fine on the output. I just need some free time to get on it. Thanks for the tips 👍
You can consider using bushing NTC6781 which has no inner sleeve . it transfers less vibration. Also seen "new" recon transfer boxes where someone didnt want to spend 400GBP for new FTC5207 and it was still having front flange not tight enough.
@@unclesam44 I do have a set of poly bushes that have barely been used so I’ll try them. The transfer box was from Ashcroft so I’d like to think it’s in good condition. I’ll try alignment first and then look further 😀
The original front prop is supposed to be out of phase to compensate for the transfer box and diff flanges not being parallel. If you look at the diff flange it’s pointing up at the transfer box so the prop shaft is deliberately positioned out of phase so the universal joints are in sync with each other as they rotate. Could you try another set of tyres? Look for flat spots and scalloping on the tyres.
Yes that is correct, I have fit a double cardan propshaft to fix that problem. I don’t have access to more tyres but I will play around with swapping front-rear+spare
When using a double cardan shaft on the front the pinion and front u-joint needs to be very close to the same angle, within a degree or so, otherwise you’ll still have a vibration. The stock out-of-phase u-joint shafts were designed to allow the front pinion angle to be much higher than the shaft angle itself and still run smooth. So for example, if the front diff flange is sitting at say 10 degrees you’ll need to get the driveshaft angle close to the same say around 9 to 9.5 degrees so the front u-joint is running as close to zero or as straight as possible. The double cardan joint on the transfer case end will take care of the angle difference between the t-case and drive shaft. Many variables are at play such as suspension lift, caster correcting radius arms, worn engine/transfer box mounts, etc… It may prove impossible to get it perfect but you should be able to get it close enough to nearly eliminate the droning vibrations you are feeling. I’ve been down this road many times and share your frustration but getting the angles right usually takes care of it.
@@TheNorthernExplorer Yes, the standard arms will make the steering feel like it's on tip toe due to the steeper castor. The corrected arms will stop this but can mess up your diff angle by dropping it's nose downwards.
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With the years of trail bashing my poor '95 has seen and running oversized MT tires, I'm just happy it goes down the road with what little vibration it does have! 😄
After bashing along on a really bumpy trail and back onto pavement, I always think to myself "Wow, I'm amazed how smooth this thing feels after all that punishment!"
I always think the car runs a lot smoother after coming back onto tarmac, maybe it’s because you get used to being bounced around on the trail 😂
its the little things that can rub us the wrong way.
Great video.
Cheers for sharing.
Tell me about it! I will find it though
Lifted my 110 Defender 1.5" using old man emu suspension, I got a vibration and noise when on a neutral throttle, on the gas it was OK, off the gas it was OK but really bad mid way. Ended up realising that suspension movement changes the diff angle, mine was much better when loaded, in the end I fitted similar spacers to you, mine were genuine LR and intended for the 90 when fitted with H/D suspension at the factory, it cured mine 95% but it's still there a bit, a Gwyn Lewis prop also helped a little , I suspect the rear diff pinion isn't in the best of health. It's hard to find decent advice, one very well known manufacturer of cranked rear arms assured me that diff nose angle doesn't change during suspension travel.... He was wrong.
It's also worth making sure that the prop U/j's are good as I've had a similar problem with a siezed rear uj that only showed up when I removed the prop. 👍
I have plans to change the rear prop so hopefully that should rule that out
After watching your video I realized that I installed my rear radius arms upside down.
Ahh I’m glad to have helped 👍
Tire balance? Driveshaft's rebalance? Was hoping the spacers did the trick for you though.
Could be tires, I will look at balancing the propshaft too
Replace bushings in front radius arms and install standard bushing without mid size tube. Make sure your central diff lock housing front shaft output has no wear. otherwise front diff flange will be loose and front shaft will give you vibrations. AFAIR double cardan needs to go to the LT230 and front in line with axle casing. then double compensate angle of LT230 and front is parallel to front axle pinion.
Consider going for rubber type coupling on rear diff as it will eliminate any issues with angle on rear and should act as sort of vibration damper.
Thank you, I have done most of them but I think the front axle needs aligning to straighten the prop
Yes. It will cure root cause assuming double cardan will face LT230 (so front prop shaft to be installed opposite). However note bushings on frond radius also matter how it transfer vibrations ( i see you push in double sleeved bushings which is not good) . Double check front flange play on LT230. I know the bearing is with extra float etc. but it needs to be super tight in the end. Otherwise centre diff casing (FTC5207) require replacement as intermediate shaft is loose on the splines.
@@unclesam44 I will align the axle and see if that helps and then maybe change the bushings back to poly and see if that helps. The transfer box is a new one so should be fine on the output.
I just need some free time to get on it. Thanks for the tips 👍
You can consider using bushing NTC6781 which has no inner sleeve . it transfers less vibration. Also seen "new" recon transfer boxes where someone didnt want to spend 400GBP for new FTC5207 and it was still having front flange not tight enough.
@@unclesam44 I do have a set of poly bushes that have barely been used so I’ll try them. The transfer box was from Ashcroft so I’d like to think it’s in good condition. I’ll try alignment first and then look further 😀
The original front prop is supposed to be out of phase to compensate for the transfer box and diff flanges not being parallel. If you look at the diff flange it’s pointing up at the transfer box so the prop shaft is deliberately positioned out of phase so the universal joints are in sync with each other as they rotate. Could you try another set of tyres? Look for flat spots and scalloping on the tyres.
Yes that is correct, I have fit a double cardan propshaft to fix that problem. I don’t have access to more tyres but I will play around with swapping front-rear+spare
When using a double cardan shaft on the front the pinion and front u-joint needs to be very close to the same angle, within a degree or so, otherwise you’ll still have a vibration. The stock out-of-phase u-joint shafts were designed to allow the front pinion angle to be much higher than the shaft angle itself and still run smooth. So for example, if the front diff flange is sitting at say 10 degrees you’ll need to get the driveshaft angle close to the same say around 9 to 9.5 degrees so the front u-joint is running as close to zero or as straight as possible. The double cardan joint on the transfer case end will take care of the angle difference between the t-case and drive shaft. Many variables are at play such as suspension lift, caster correcting radius arms, worn engine/transfer box mounts, etc… It may prove impossible to get it perfect but you should be able to get it close enough to nearly eliminate the droning vibrations you are feeling. I’ve been down this road many times and share your frustration but getting the angles right usually takes care of it.
@@C-Mack1972 I think I’m at that stage now, there’s so many things that could cause it but I’m reasonably happy with the noise
Can you please tell me how you fit the Disco 2 grills on the Disco 1 bumper?
@@1ELforce the grille is a pretty straight forward fit, it does touch the bumper and requires a bit of modification where the headlight trims fit.
@@TheNorthernExplorer I will put the disco 2 grille this week, that’s why I am asking
Did You have proper castor corrected front arms? And Your transfercase is in good shape?
Yes I have 3 degree caster arms and brand new Ashcroft transfer box
Castor corrected arms can actually make things worse as they change the nose angle of the diff, better with castor corrected swivel housings.
@@andicog true, I’ve tried the standard arms back on and it was just the same but a bit more wandering at speed
@@TheNorthernExplorer Yes, the standard arms will make the steering feel like it's on tip toe due to the steeper castor. The corrected arms will stop this but can mess up your diff angle by dropping it's nose downwards.
@@andicog I would have thought the double cardan prop would fix that
where can i get that exhaust flange spacer?
I will add the link to the video 👍
Did it vibrate before the lift?
I’ll be honest I can’t remember
Rear donut
Wheel tracking
Wheel balance
Props need turning by one bolt hole?
Greased UJ’s
@@TheHeggars checked 😉
Uneven tyre ware maybe? Incorrect balanced wheel or prop? Also your steering wheel would wreck me driving straight on like 1/4 of a turn 😂
😂😂😂 it’s only recently been done like that I’ve just fit new steering arms and need to get tracking done. Plan is to get the rear prop balanced
I hope these videos help you
ruclips.net/video/YgNZfIR-8Ng/видео.htmlsi=A5WZ_SkOsA2Lsctf
ruclips.net/video/Th0piVZI-jQ/видео.htmlsi=E_dnXdmenTaOIOrO
This armor is better than that Spicer
Thank you
Let's hope it just turns out to be an easy fix when you catch up with it
Yeah fingers crossed it’s something simple
good luck m8
Thanks!