I had a problem with one of my windows skipping when I tried to open it. Didn’t want to pay someone so went a year without fixing it. Had someone coming for the roof so figured I’d get the parts and have him do it. No need!! I just replaced both sides myself and it works so much smoother. This was even easier than the video makes it look! Hardest part was wiggling the trim up without breaking it.
This was very easy. The replacement crank was for either left or right side. The wood trim broke but i just glued it together and the nails will hold it together. Thank you Anderson. One thing you should mention in the video how to find out model and serial number.
Great info. Except the part where he uses the old crank to hide the split arm. The primary reason someone would need to replace the crank (in the first place) is most likely due to the crank being inoperable (stripped). The second thing that would have been helpful to know is whether this example demonstrates a left-handed or right-handed crank replacement for DIY users. Other than that, thanks.
I'm what somewhat handy, but never had to deal with windows before and was a bit nervous. This video made replacing the crank a breeze. Done under 30 minutes w/ no issues. Thanks.
Replaced my split-arm operator and it took under15 minutes which included prep (getting all tools in place) and clean up (including filling in the nail holes). Would NOT have been this quick if I had not watched the demo....received my thumbs-up, GREAT demo!!
Worked great! For a non-mechanically inclined guy like myself, the job took about 45 minutes (be extra careful in removing the sash. You wouldn't want that to break). For somehow who knew what they were doing, it'd be less than 15. Everything worked just like the video said.
Have 3 to replace today and I feel like I can do it now that I have watched this video and know what I need and the order in which to do things...thanks for this great video.
Anderson casements installed 1977. Lever system unlike what you show. These have a long steel arm with a plastic slider that tracks along a rail on the window frame. The plastic slider is broken. My questions are: 1.) does plastic crank cover just pop off after removing crank handle? or is this plastic crank cover not removed? how? 2.) Is wood trim removed , just like in video shows for the newer style crank system? Or is crank system removed in a different way?
Thank you for the video. My bathroom window handle (/operator) just stripped out yesterday and I was very unfamiliar with the anatomy of a window. Hopefully it's as straightforward as the video makes it seem!
I have an old style cover around 1974-1979 with no screws and cannot find any information on how to take the cover off. I beleive it is Casement Operator Cover part #0532608. Spoke to two Andersen reps, both of which said it should pull right off and one of them said the casing may be holding it on. I stated it rocks left and right and there is no paint holding it in. Seems like the center is held in somehow causing not to slip off the shaft. Tried pulling it off by hand, using a screw driver, clamp to get a good grip and small pry bar. It's not coming off. Any suggestions?
Mine looks like part 0532610, similar but a different shaped hole. It is marked "insert / twist screwdriver" but I can't find a way that does anything. (see parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_0532610__w_casement_cover.html and parts.andersenwindows.com/catImages/source/items/0532610.jpg )
Tony, open your window and look down at the operator arm - if it looks V shaped then it is a Split Arm Operator, if it is straight, it is a Straight Arm Operator. For the Straight Arm Operator, you need to know if it is handed left or right. This is determined by viewing your window from the exterior - whichever side the hinges are on is the handing of your window. Split Arm Operators are universal. Home Depot may carry the operators. If not, you may order them on line or contact us at 855-337-8825.
"If replacing the operator on a 400 Series Perma-Shield® casement window manufactured from 1995 - 1998, an additional adaptor plate must be installed to the bottom of the operator for proper fit and installation." Where would that be on this installation?
+Veracity Good question - When replacing an Andersen® 400 Series casement or awning operator manufactured from 1995 to 1998, a current vintage operator and an adaptor plate must be ordered. After removing the old operator, the video shows attaching the new operator and the next instruction is to snap the adaptor in place. The adaptor plate snaps onto the base of the operator mechanism with no modifications needed. The operator base holes are in the same location for both vintages. There are no special instructions for installing the adaptor plate as it snaps onto the bottom of the operator base plate. After the adaptor plate is snapped into place, the current vintage operator will have two holding legs and will work as a replacement operator on casement window frames manufactured between 1995- 1998. After the adaptor plate is snapped into place, the operator can be installed with no modifications. Let us know if you have any further questions.
The short answer is that it is mostly personal preference. The longer answer is that with a split arm there will be a slight gap between the window sash and the frame of the window. A lot of people prefer this because it makes it easier to wash their windows. With a straight arm, the sash will open snug against the frame of the window so this type of operator is preferred for egress windows. For most window sizes, you would have this operator option with the exception of the narrowest and widest units. Let us know if you have any further questions.
@Andersen Windows Thank you so much for this explanation. You should have this readily available on your site and referenced in some way in your product guides where the following is found. --- *Meet clear opening width of 20" (508) using sill hinge control bracket with split arm operator specified (bracket can be pivoted for cleaning position) and meet clear opening width of 22" (559) with straight arm operator specified.
Jasers - Thanks for reaching out. You should be able to gently force the window open slightly, which will allow you to remove the sill stop and expose the screws securing the operator to the sill. We recommend using a thin-bladed putty knife. This will be done after the handle and operator cover have been removed. These steps are also in the video. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
+Doug Watson you can get certain types of operators at Home Depot. They carry the split arm operators. you can also call Andersen or try www.windowparts.com
+Doug Watson Our online Parts Store is also a great option for finding things like a replacement operator: parts.andersenwindows.com/ Please let us know if you have any further questions. Thanks for reaching out!
ahhh... yes, looks so easy. My window, which the casement operator is broken and I'm watching this contemplating fixing it, is 30 years old and not nice, new, and shiny like the one in this video. Ill try anyway.
Who replaces a brand new opener with a brand new opener? Nobody. The problems of an old, painted in window are not addressed here at all. Neither is the question of which replacement opener to get and its handing. Useless video.
I had a problem with one of my windows skipping when I tried to open it. Didn’t want to pay someone so went a year without fixing it. Had someone coming for the roof so figured I’d get the parts and have him do it. No need!! I just replaced both sides myself and it works so much smoother. This was even easier than the video makes it look! Hardest part was wiggling the trim up without breaking it.
This was very easy. The replacement crank was for either left or right side. The wood trim broke but i just glued it together and the nails will hold it together. Thank you Anderson. One thing you should mention in the video how to find out model and serial number.
Great info. Except the part where he uses the old crank to hide the split arm. The primary reason someone would need to replace the crank (in the first place) is most likely due to the crank being inoperable (stripped). The second thing that would have been helpful to know is whether this example demonstrates a left-handed or right-handed crank replacement for DIY users. Other than that, thanks.
I'm what somewhat handy, but never had to deal with windows before and was a bit nervous. This video made replacing the crank a breeze. Done under 30 minutes w/ no issues. Thanks.
Replaced my split-arm operator and it took under15 minutes which included prep (getting all tools in place) and clean up (including filling in the nail holes). Would NOT have been this quick if I had not watched the demo....received my thumbs-up, GREAT demo!!
Great to hear! This is exactly why we make these videos.
I just replaced the Casement Operator on two of our windows following the instructions from this video, and it was ridiculously easy. Thanks Anderson.
Worked great! For a non-mechanically inclined guy like myself, the job took about 45 minutes (be extra careful in removing the sash. You wouldn't want that to break). For somehow who knew what they were doing, it'd be less than 15. Everything worked just like the video said.
Saved $400 in labor with this video 👍
Have 3 to replace today and I feel like I can do it now that I have watched this video and know what I need and the order in which to do things...thanks for this great video.
This video made me feel confident enough to try replacing the operating arms myself. Replaced 2 in less than 30 minutes! 😃
super easy change out! Hardest part is just getting the trim molding off. Yay for having working windows again!
Anderson casements installed 1977. Lever system unlike what you show. These have a long steel arm with a plastic slider that tracks along a rail on the window frame. The plastic slider is broken. My questions are: 1.) does plastic crank cover just pop off after removing crank handle? or is this plastic crank cover not removed? how? 2.) Is wood trim removed , just like in video shows for the newer style crank system? Or is crank system removed in a different way?
OK, I looked at my window, and my new operator, and was freaked out. This video gives me a good bit of confidence.
Thank you for the video. My bathroom window handle (/operator) just stripped out yesterday and I was very unfamiliar with the anatomy of a window. Hopefully it's as straightforward as the video makes it seem!
I have an old style cover around 1974-1979 with no screws and cannot find any information on how to take the cover off. I beleive it is Casement Operator Cover part #0532608. Spoke to two Andersen reps, both of which said it should pull right off and one of them said the casing may be holding it on. I stated it rocks left and right and there is no paint holding it in. Seems like the center is held in somehow causing not to slip off the shaft. Tried pulling it off by hand, using a screw driver, clamp to get a good grip and small pry bar. It's not coming off. Any suggestions?
Mine looks like part 0532610, similar but a different shaped hole. It is marked "insert / twist screwdriver" but I can't find a way that does anything. (see parts.andersenwindows.com/detail_0532610__w_casement_cover.html and parts.andersenwindows.com/catImages/source/items/0532610.jpg )
Wow - simple. Wish every replacemet in a house were this easy.
Great info for a 400 series, but how do you replace the same thing on a 100 series casement?
How do you identify the proper operator model for a window installed 10 years ago? Where can I buy authorized parts?
Tony, open your window and look down at the operator arm - if it looks V shaped then it is a Split Arm Operator, if it is straight, it is a Straight Arm Operator. For the Straight Arm Operator, you need to know if it is handed left or right. This is determined by viewing your window from the exterior - whichever side the hinges are on is the handing of your window. Split Arm Operators are universal. Home Depot may carry the operators. If not, you may order them on line or contact us at 855-337-8825.
Where do I purchase a brand new one ? I'm in Lansing Illinois
Hardest part was opening the window with the broken operator. Once it was open, changing the operator was a piece of cake!
"If replacing the operator on a 400 Series Perma-Shield® casement window manufactured from 1995 - 1998, an additional adaptor plate must be installed to the bottom of the operator for proper fit and installation."
Where would that be on this installation?
+Veracity Good question - When replacing an Andersen® 400 Series casement or awning operator manufactured from 1995 to 1998, a current vintage operator and an adaptor plate must be ordered. After removing the old operator, the video shows attaching the new operator and the next instruction is to snap the adaptor in place. The adaptor plate snaps onto the base of the operator mechanism with no modifications needed. The operator base holes are in the same location for both vintages. There are no special instructions for installing the adaptor plate as it snaps onto the bottom of the operator base plate. After the adaptor plate is snapped into place, the current vintage operator will have two holding legs and will work as a replacement operator on casement window frames manufactured between 1995- 1998. After the adaptor plate is snapped into place, the operator can be installed with no modifications. Let us know if you have any further questions.
Is the attachment screw in the Operating Handle supposed to make contact with the threads in the operator?
Hello, Thanks for reaching out. If you have additional questions, our customer service team will be able to assist at 888-888-7020.
, Hello, I need to replace Operator and a adapter
Is there an instructional video on the subject?
Very instructive video - hopefully my sills come off as easy
Are there advantages between straight arm vs split arm? is there a reason one is used over the other? thanks
The short answer is that it is mostly personal preference. The longer answer is that with a split arm there will be a slight gap between the window sash and the frame of the window. A lot of people prefer this because it makes it easier to wash their windows. With a straight arm, the sash will open snug against the frame of the window so this type of operator is preferred for egress windows. For most window sizes, you would have this operator option with the exception of the narrowest and widest units. Let us know if you have any further questions.
@Andersen Windows
Thank you so much for this explanation. You should have this readily available on your site and referenced in some way in your product guides where the following is found. --- *Meet clear opening width of 20" (508) using sill hinge control bracket with split arm operator specified (bracket can be pivoted for cleaning position) and meet clear opening width of 22" (559) with straight arm operator specified.
Super helpful video, thanks!
Perfect Video. Thank you.
How do I open the window for step #1 if my handle just spins and doesn't open the window?
Jasers - Thanks for reaching out. You should be able to gently force the window open slightly, which will allow you to remove the sill stop and expose the screws securing the operator to the sill. We recommend using a thin-bladed putty knife. This will be done after the handle and operator cover have been removed. These steps are also in the video. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
i'M IN CENTRAL NJ , WHERE WOULD I FIND A REPLACEMENT OPERATOR AND NOT SURE OF MODEL SO i WOULD NEED TO BRING OLD ONE FOR MATCH UP.
+Doug Watson
you can get certain types of operators at Home Depot. They carry the split arm operators.
you can also call Andersen or try www.windowparts.com
+Doug Watson Our online Parts Store is also a great option for finding things like a replacement operator: parts.andersenwindows.com/ Please let us know if you have any further questions. Thanks for reaching out!
Thank you for the post.
ahhh... yes, looks so easy. My window, which the casement operator is broken and I'm watching this contemplating fixing it, is 30 years old and not nice, new, and shiny like the one in this video. Ill try anyway.
Patrick - Please let us know if you have any problems or would like any assistance
Thanks !
now if only I could find a replacement sill stop.
Except my cover does not pop off which is why I watched this. FAIL!
Hi Stephen! Thank you for your feedback. We are sorry to hear about this. If you need further assistance, please call 888-888-7020.
Who replaces a brand new opener with a brand new opener? Nobody. The problems of an old, painted in window are not addressed here at all. Neither is the question of which replacement opener to get and its handing. Useless video.