One of the best, most concise DIYs I've used. Was able to do mine in about 7 hours solo. Never done one before, no auto parts store runs. No surprises, it went just like in your video.
YOU CANNOT BELIEVE HOW THANKFUL I AM FOR YOUR DETAILED VIDEO. I've been watching endless videos trying to understand why my transmission wouldn't go flush all the way to the engine when putting it back up. You explained that theres is going to be a less than an inch gap and then you put the transmission bolts. Thank you so much! I thought I was doing something wrong and didnt align the clutch properly or something. Now I can have piece of mind when installing my transmission
Really a terrific video. I set up the computer in the workshop and followed step-by-step. I put a new AP1 flywheel in my AP2 (14 lbs. vs. 21 lbs.) while I was it too. Thank you for taking the time to create the video.
Thank you so much for this series. I need to do this to my S2k and was a bit worried about it. I feel like it is doable now with your complete coverage. Thanks!
I can't thank you enough. Your video series is exactly what I needed to do this job successfully. I just got back from my first 5 minute drive and everything is working great. I have you to thank for making this job relatively easy. Some tips I discovered doing this job on my own: You can access the top transmission bolts from above the engine. To cut down a socket, I used a wide metal file and a drill. I had a hell of a time getting the propeller shaft bolts out and after buying new braker bars, etc, I wasn't getting any closer so I ended up taking the prop shaft off from the diff side - no issues. I didn't have a transmission jack so I used a floor jack and a cheap synch belt to lash the transmission to the jack and that worked flawlessly. To line up the transmission easier, I went to Home Depot and purchased 4 longer bolts, 2 of each size, to guide the transmission - I only needed two and it made it super easy - just don't accidently forget your Honda bolt at the store like I did... *sigh*
You’re welcome! Yeah you can access the bolts from the top but it’s really really tight. I think you’d need just the right tools to make it work. Good tip on cutting down the socket. Did you try using an impact for the prop shaft bolts? I think it’s quite important that they are impacted off, otherwise you risk stripping them.
@@DIYGuysvideo I tried everything short of a cut-off wheel: Electric impact, air impact, braker bar, etc. This is the car's 3rd clutch so I'm not sure if the folks who were in there before me over-torqued the transmission side prop shaft bolts or if they ran into the same problem I did and took the prop shaft off from the diff, or what, but the diff side came out with an impact like it was joke.
Great job on these videos. It's good to see how these procedures are done on our cars. Although I'm probably not likely to do this myself when I do have to replace my clutch, it's still awesome to see this done on video for all to see. Thank you for this!
Quick tip for others- I used the long alternator bolt to help align the transmission while I was trying to get the splines to line up. It threads into the bottom transmission bolt holes and it’s longer so it will bolt in before the input shaft goes in. 2 long bolts would have been nice but I made due with just the one. Also make sure your slave cylinder shaft went into the clutch fork otherwise you will piss clutch fluid everywhere when you go to test it and then have to bleed your clutch... ask me how I know lol. Thanks for the video! It definitely made this easier.
Thank you so much for these videos. I appreciate how specific you are down to the torque of each bolt. Can I request a rigid collars video and/or ball joints DYI video?
I have rigid collars sitting in my garage but my alignment doesn’t seem to change much between track days which is the only reason I haven’t made a video on it. Ball joints I’ll need to have an issue.
I can't believe there is soo many steps in removing the trans and installing a clutch. Ill be attempting this soon, but with the added steps of removing a kraftwerks supercharge brackets and pullys. FUN FUN ps where's Jasons cat?
Idk I did what I thought was the correct way, after input shaft is in wiggle trans until dowels are in and trans is completely mated before threading bolts, makes sure you don't crush the dowels.
Great video. Im getting ready to do a clutch job myself and I was wondering if it was worth it too replace the slider/guide that the release bearing goes over. I watched a few LHT videos and they recommend replacing it. I don't feel any roughness at the moment with my clutch so that should mean it's fine right?
I have also seen LHT's videos and how they recommend replacing it. I personally haven't felt a groove in the release bearing guide so I never bothered replacing them. Billman says that some early S2000s didn't have properly greased throwout bearings, which can cause damage to the guide. If your clutch feels smooth you're likely fine.
Hey Jason, amazing job on the series! I could only imagine how long it took to produce with documenting every step. From me, and the rest of the S2000 community, we thank you so so much! Also, did you reuse the original exhaust manifold gasket?
I had replied to a similar comment on Part 1. I know LHT likes to make a big deal about how they always replace the clutch release bearing guide but I am skeptical as to necessary it is to replace it which is why I omitted it from this video. My clutch release bearing guide had 150K miles and seemed to be in fine shape.
@@DIYGuysvideo based on my anecdotal evidence I agree that it’s probably not necessary for every case. My 04 with 138k felt perfectly fine. I already had the new part so I replaced it, but I don’t think it was needed.
I’m not sure you’ll see this but I’m running into an issue where the bell housing is too tall and hits the firewall of the car when I’m attempting to line it up. If I put it straight and line it up, the bell housing fits but the input shaft hits the bearing and won’t go anywhere. If you see this, your input would be greatly appreciated!
When the engine doesn’t have the transmission attached it will sway forwards/backwards fairly easily. Maybe have someone tip the engine backwards if it helps. I very carefully jack up the trans until the input shaft is level with the release bearing and then straddle the trans, push it with my feet until the inout shaft pops into place through the release bearing.
Really helpful video, but is it okay to mate the engine and bell housing by tightening the bolts? It seems kind of risky, is there any risk in doing this?
I guess a risk would be cross threading if you don’t have the engine and transmission aligned correctly. With most things, if it doesn’t feel right then stop 😉
@@DIYGuysvideo yeah, I had a look on some forums too and it seemed like the only real risks were either that or the dowels getting crushed. But mine went on nicely, tightened the bolts up evenly and it all works. Thanks for the video, it was helpful 👍
Thank you so much for this video series. I almost always search S2KI for DIY threads but your videos made this job a lot less stressful.
One of the best, most concise DIYs I've used. Was able to do mine in about 7 hours solo. Never done one before, no auto parts store runs. No surprises, it went just like in your video.
So glad to hear dude
Watching these video makes a clutch replacing not as daunting as I thought it would be! Nicely done, again!
Thanks Alex!
Thank you so, so much! Too many janky videos out there, this is quality.
You’re welcome
Thank you so much for sharing your videos, I was able to follow them and successfully replace my clutch by myself in my garage last week.
YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 💯💯💯
YOU CANNOT BELIEVE HOW THANKFUL I AM FOR YOUR DETAILED VIDEO. I've been watching endless videos trying to understand why my transmission wouldn't go flush all the way to the engine when putting it back up. You explained that theres is going to be a less than an inch gap and then you put the transmission bolts. Thank you so much! I thought I was doing something wrong and didnt align the clutch properly or something. Now I can have piece of mind when installing my transmission
Really a terrific video. I set up the computer in the workshop and followed step-by-step. I put a new AP1 flywheel in my AP2 (14 lbs. vs. 21 lbs.) while I was it too. Thank you for taking the time to create the video.
Thank you so much for this series. I need to do this to my S2k and was a bit worried about it. I feel like it is doable now with your complete coverage.
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
I can't thank you enough. Your video series is exactly what I needed to do this job successfully. I just got back from my first 5 minute drive and everything is working great. I have you to thank for making this job relatively easy. Some tips I discovered doing this job on my own: You can access the top transmission bolts from above the engine. To cut down a socket, I used a wide metal file and a drill. I had a hell of a time getting the propeller shaft bolts out and after buying new braker bars, etc, I wasn't getting any closer so I ended up taking the prop shaft off from the diff side - no issues. I didn't have a transmission jack so I used a floor jack and a cheap synch belt to lash the transmission to the jack and that worked flawlessly. To line up the transmission easier, I went to Home Depot and purchased 4 longer bolts, 2 of each size, to guide the transmission - I only needed two and it made it super easy - just don't accidently forget your Honda bolt at the store like I did... *sigh*
You’re welcome! Yeah you can access the bolts from the top but it’s really really tight. I think you’d need just the right tools to make it work.
Good tip on cutting down the socket.
Did you try using an impact for the prop shaft bolts? I think it’s quite important that they are impacted off, otherwise you risk stripping them.
@@DIYGuysvideo I tried everything short of a cut-off wheel: Electric impact, air impact, braker bar, etc. This is the car's 3rd clutch so I'm not sure if the folks who were in there before me over-torqued the transmission side prop shaft bolts or if they ran into the same problem I did and took the prop shaft off from the diff, or what, but the diff side came out with an impact like it was joke.
Excellent cinematography and superb verbal instructions. Thank you so much!
Great job on these videos. It's good to see how these procedures are done on our cars. Although I'm probably not likely to do this myself when I do have to replace my clutch, it's still awesome to see this done on video for all to see. Thank you for this!
You're welcome!
Quick tip for others-
I used the long alternator bolt to help align the transmission while I was trying to get the splines to line up. It threads into the bottom transmission bolt holes and it’s longer so it will bolt in before the input shaft goes in.
2 long bolts would have been nice but I made due with just the one.
Also make sure your slave cylinder shaft went into the clutch fork otherwise you will piss clutch fluid everywhere when you go to test it and then have to bleed your clutch... ask me how I know lol.
Thanks for the video! It definitely made this easier.
Thanks for the informative video. Just did this on my ap1 with the original clutch(170k miles).
Woot congrats!
Awesome video, this was super helpful when doing this job. BTW, I have an AP2 ('05), and the rearmost subframe bolts are 17mm.
Same here on my 04. I wasn’t really paying attention and hit it with a 19mm on my impact and it just spun. Luckily it didn’t round off the bolt head.
Oops. Sorry I missed that. I know one of those bolts was revised at some point and I thought the new bolt head was a 19mm
Yo in clutch with this videos in work right with my build and was questioning some parts got now thanks
Thank you so much for these videos. I appreciate how specific you are down to the torque of each bolt. Can I request a rigid collars video and/or ball joints DYI video?
I have rigid collars sitting in my garage but my alignment doesn’t seem to change much between track days which is the only reason I haven’t made a video on it. Ball joints I’ll need to have an issue.
Excellent
what about aligning the driveshaft to the marks ?
Not important per Billman.
Hey , thank you for this 4 videos! I would like to see whow you install a short final gear for the s2000.Greetings from Germany
Thanks for the suggestion. Personally I like the final drive so that probably won’t happen.
Thank you!
I can't believe there is soo many steps in removing the trans and installing a clutch. Ill be attempting this soon, but with the added steps of removing a kraftwerks supercharge brackets and pullys. FUN FUN
ps
where's Jasons cat?
Awesome video!
Idk I did what I thought was the correct way, after input shaft is in wiggle trans until dowels are in and trans is completely mated before threading bolts, makes sure you don't crush the dowels.
Thank you! Do a k swap video please!!!!!
Great video. Im getting ready to do a clutch job myself and I was wondering if it was worth it too replace the slider/guide that the release bearing goes over. I watched a few LHT videos and they recommend replacing it. I don't feel any roughness at the moment with my clutch so that should mean it's fine right?
I have also seen LHT's videos and how they recommend replacing it. I personally haven't felt a groove in the release bearing guide so I never bothered replacing them. Billman says that some early S2000s didn't have properly greased throwout bearings, which can cause damage to the guide. If your clutch feels smooth you're likely fine.
Nice one mate 👌
Hey Jason, amazing job on the series! I could only imagine how long it took to produce with documenting every step. From me, and the rest of the S2000 community, we thank you so so much! Also, did you reuse the original exhaust manifold gasket?
I did reuse the original exhaust manifold gasket. Never had an issue doing this.
I was wondering the exact same thing myself.
The only thing I think that was missed is replacing the throw out/release bearing guide.
I had replied to a similar comment on Part 1.
I know LHT likes to make a big deal about how they always replace the clutch release bearing guide but I am skeptical as to necessary it is to replace it which is why I omitted it from this video. My clutch release bearing guide had 150K miles and seemed to be in fine shape.
@@DIYGuysvideo based on my anecdotal evidence I agree that it’s probably not necessary for every case. My 04 with 138k felt perfectly fine. I already had the new part so I replaced it, but I don’t think it was needed.
I’m not sure you’ll see this but I’m running into an issue where the bell housing is too tall and hits the firewall of the car when I’m attempting to line it up. If I put it straight and line it up, the bell housing fits but the input shaft hits the bearing and won’t go anywhere. If you see this, your input would be greatly appreciated!
When the engine doesn’t have the transmission attached it will sway forwards/backwards fairly easily.
Maybe have someone tip the engine backwards if it helps. I very carefully jack up the trans until the input shaft is level with the release bearing and then straddle the trans, push it with my feet until the inout shaft pops into place through the release bearing.
Really helpful video, but is it okay to mate the engine and bell housing by tightening the bolts? It seems kind of risky, is there any risk in doing this?
I guess a risk would be cross threading if you don’t have the engine and transmission aligned correctly.
With most things, if it doesn’t feel right then stop 😉
@@DIYGuysvideo yeah, I had a look on some forums too and it seemed like the only real risks were either that or the dowels getting crushed.
But mine went on nicely, tightened the bolts up evenly and it all works.
Thanks for the video, it was helpful 👍
When you torque the drive shaft bolts did you put the transmission in gear when torquing the bolts
I put the handbrake on.
@@DIYGuysvideo got it
Maybe air pump delete video
I would be happy to do this but I just need a car to perform it on! My daily driver already has the simulator installed.
Thank you!
You’re welcome!