If I can add one piece of advice for anyone else doing this,especially in the rust belt arears. Be prepared for that union at the hard brake line to snap or twist. Soaking the line connections with penetrating oil or just heating it up helps alot. Then followed by tightening and loosening the connection so the hard line doesn't twist and break off.
I want to do this job and have all the parts ready but im worried about the hard brake line twisting and getting damaged. Ideally i want to turn the flexible hose and stop the top bolt from turning? Forget that it came lose fine.
Nice informative video as usual. You seem to already have a video for all jobs I need to do to my 98 Camry and other family cars which is really helpful! Feel more confident that I can do the job after watching your video several times. Please continue with more. Thank you for your efforts. Highly appreciated! Regards.
I have important question. Im replacing caliper and line on the other side and wondering if I can attach the new line to the new caliper and attach the line last. I would bleed the brakes of course. Can I do that or do I have to attach the new line first then the caliper? It would save me a mess from wiping caliper off trying to connect to fluid filled line. Thank you and your feedback is much greatly appreciated. I didn't think it would matter since the new line and caliper already has air inside am I correct?
I think I can use my Orion brake bleeder kit to do this, got to change the brake fluid anyway (1998 Camry LE) and want to install stainless lines up front. Thanks for posting.
@@hardlymovingpro No need to with the bleeder kit. It connects to the brake fluid reservoir, sealing the system. I pump it to 15 psi, therefore eliminating the need for another person. I will do this once I swap the lines so I don't have all this brake fluid shooting out where that 10mm nut is in.
Hello there, I'm just wondering why you changed this part ( brake hoses ) because I have a problem in my car ( Honda accord 2008 )and I replaced the calibre, so do you think the brake hoses is broken? Thanks
I'm getting a new caliper and a new hose, do you think it's better to attach the hose bottom end to the caliper first then the top end. I'm trying to minimize the spillage.
Absolutely! Will help the longevity of the brake master cylinder. Here's a video where I did it quick and simple using my ac vacuum pump: ruclips.net/video/InnDPwkLMQs/видео.html
I'm noticing a few drops a day of what appears to be brake fluid dripping on my driver's side front - just under a bit of the subframe where the front driver's side control arm mounts to (I believe near the middle mount of the control arm) - it's slightly darker yellow than new fluid, but has the same mineral oil type feel - and smells only slightly different than new (or reservoir residing) fluid - new fluid seems to have almost no smell, and is only very, very minimally yellow, the drip seems to smell very slightly of oil and is darker. My reservoir doesn't seem to be going down noticeably. I'm wondering if this is likely to be the same leak as you'd repaired before doing the passenger side in this video? Is this a more likely place for a leak than the caliper hose points (and bleeder valve)? I'm planning to put the car on front ramps for a better look - do you think removing the wheel is required to see this flare nut / retention clip area?
You're better off removing the wheel to get a better view on what's going on. A leak could be also coming the the caliper piston seals as well. If a hose leak, the hose would be wet.
Hey my brake pedal is spongy and sinks in, so planning to change the hose and do brake bleed. My question is, should I do brake bleed first before changing the hoses or it's the other way around? Thanks for your help!
Changing the hoses introduces air into the system, it makes no sense to bleed the system before changing the hoses. Put everything thing back together then bleed the system.
@@hardlymovingpro But air will be sucked into the caliper. Doesn't make sense. Also, doesn't bleeding in general ensure there's no air left in the system? That is, isn't the brake designed to be able to push out the air?
Hello there, I noticed the copper crush washer are completely flat on one side and more rounded/beveled on the other. Does the completely flat side have to be towards the flat metal surface of the brake line, and the rounded side facing the banjo bolt to make the proper seal so fluid won't leak? Thank you :)
Great observation! Never noticed that difference. I'd think the rounded side should face the banjo bolt and flat side against the inlet ring. The reason being the bolt will be rotating against the rounded side crushing it down and forming a good seal. Also , you have two (2) copper crush washers.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, thank you! I was thinking the exact same thing.. I also remember seeing a similar type washer on a Toyota Vans Transmission drain plug, which was also flat on one side, and more rounded/beveled on the other. However this washer was made of aluminum (much larger), and required much more torque to crush and seal. I'm not sure if it will make a difference however the washer is installed, or cause any leaks/issues. It is just interesting that they designed each side of the washer differently; I assumed there would be some rationale behind it.. :)
im burning thru brake pads now every 4000 miles on my camry . just replaced the front calipers and the problem still persists. any idea what the issue is?
@@hardlymovingpro well rear pads are wearing out too but they are consistent. whats the fix on lack of rear brake power? can a bad front brake hose be the issue? calipers are new up front and both wheels spin with no binding when the car is up on the lift
@@hardlymovingpro I know. For this job obviously I was wondering what size rubber brake line you used to put in the end of the line to slow the leak. That small 1 inch piece of rubber line. I have 97 es300. Same as this
I changed my caliper but was an emergency locking up and couldn't get the line until after I fixed it. I guess when I change pads and rotors again ill change the line and other caliper. I don't see fixing everything when the car only has 50k miles. Rubber still looks good and had good flex.
I have this sneaky suspicion I'm going to have to take life insurance out. On my wife. I'll give it a try but don't be surprised if I come back and give you a thumbs down.
@@hardlymovingpro I was just teasing. Will not attempt this without strict supervision. I always take it to Toyota. My wife will not trust me to fix her hairdryer let alone a brake job. Interesting to watch though
Toyota specifies torque values for the hose connection , banjo bolt and pins. But then he doesn't know how to use a torque wrench and probably doesn't have one. I'm not a perfectionist but this is way too sloppy for me. Please tell me you don't work on airplanes .
If I can add one piece of advice for anyone else doing this,especially in the rust belt arears. Be prepared for that union at the hard brake line to snap or twist. Soaking the line connections with penetrating oil or just heating it up helps alot. Then followed by tightening and loosening the connection so the hard line doesn't twist and break off.
Yes ... I'd agree. The older the car and the saltier the climate it came from, the more difficult to remove the flare nut.
I feel really fortunate to be in dry California. We may have fires, but at least we don't have rust!
I want to do this job and have all the parts ready but im worried about the hard brake line twisting and getting damaged. Ideally i want to turn the flexible hose and stop the top bolt from turning? Forget that it came lose fine.
@@Wren4123 78
Thanks so much for the video! Replaced the two front calipers thought might as well replace the brake line hoses as well!
Thanks for sharing!
Nice informative video as usual. You seem to already have a video for all jobs I need to do to my 98 Camry and other family cars which is really helpful! Feel more confident that I can do the job after watching your video several times. Please continue with more. Thank you for your efforts. Highly appreciated! Regards.
You bet and appreciate your comments!
Thanks for the very detailed step-by-step instructions. Got my leaked brake hose on my Lexus LS400 replaced by following your tutorials. Cheers!!
Thanks for your post and glad the video helped you out!
Thank you so much for this video سپاسگزارم
You bet!
I have important question. Im replacing caliper and line on the other side and wondering if I can attach the new line to the new caliper and attach the line last. I would bleed the brakes of course. Can I do that or do I have to attach the new line first then the caliper? It would save me a mess from wiping caliper off trying to connect to fluid filled line. Thank you and your feedback is much greatly appreciated. I didn't think it would matter since the new line and caliper already has air inside am I correct?
Yes. Attach the line to the caliper first.
I think I can use my Orion brake bleeder kit to do this, got to change the brake fluid anyway (1998 Camry LE) and want to install stainless lines up front. Thanks for posting.
You can also use a buddy to pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valve.
@@hardlymovingpro No need to with the bleeder kit. It connects to the brake fluid reservoir, sealing the system. I pump it to 15 psi, therefore eliminating the need for another person.
I will do this once I swap the lines so I don't have all this brake fluid shooting out where that 10mm nut is in.
Really helpful, couple of little points in there that I hadn't thought of
Thanks!
Hello there, I'm just wondering why you changed this part ( brake hoses ) because I have a problem in my car ( Honda accord 2008 )and I replaced the calibre, so do you think the brake hoses is broken? Thanks
Over time the hose weakens, cracks and may begin to leak.
Thanks for the clear instruction
You bet!
I'm getting a new caliper and a new hose, do you think it's better to attach the hose bottom end to the caliper first then the top end. I'm trying to minimize the spillage.
Top end first and connect to bottom when fluid starts dripping out. I know. Messy.
Do you think I should let the new brake hose starts to drip before installing it? So it can limit the air go into brake caliper.
Yes you can. After the hose is attached to the caliper, you can also open the bleed valve and let gravity push out the air with the brake fluid.
It seems like this would be a good time to do a brake fluid flush. Bottles are like 10-20 bucks. Thoughts on this?
Absolutely! Will help the longevity of the brake master cylinder. Here's a video where I did it quick and simple using my ac vacuum pump: ruclips.net/video/InnDPwkLMQs/видео.html
I'm noticing a few drops a day of what appears to be brake fluid dripping on my driver's side front - just under a bit of the subframe where the front driver's side control arm mounts to (I believe near the middle mount of the control arm) - it's slightly darker yellow than new fluid, but has the same mineral oil type feel - and smells only slightly different than new (or reservoir residing) fluid - new fluid seems to have almost no smell, and is only very, very minimally yellow, the drip seems to smell very slightly of oil and is darker. My reservoir doesn't seem to be going down noticeably. I'm wondering if this is likely to be the same leak as you'd repaired before doing the passenger side in this video? Is this a more likely place for a leak than the caliper hose points (and bleeder valve)? I'm planning to put the car on front ramps for a better look - do you think removing the wheel is required to see this flare nut / retention clip area?
You're better off removing the wheel to get a better view on what's going on. A leak could be also coming the the caliper piston seals as well. If a hose leak, the hose would be wet.
Hey my brake pedal is spongy and sinks in, so planning to change the hose and do brake bleed. My question is, should I do brake bleed first before changing the hoses or it's the other way around? Thanks for your help!
If there is no fluid leak, problem may be your brake master cylinder
@@hardlymovingpro Yeah, I am getting mixed responses in this. So, decided to start from parts that cost less. Thanks
@@amjathkhan2004 master cylinders are not expensive but more labor intensive to replace.
Changing the hoses introduces air into the system, it makes no sense to bleed the system before changing the hoses. Put everything thing back together then bleed the system.
@@sloebone7399 Perfectly make sense. Thank you for your help!
You took the caliper off to prevent air from getting in, but isn't the new hose gunna be filled with air?
Gravity will fill in the air gaps.
@@hardlymovingpro But air will be sucked into the caliper. Doesn't make sense. Also, doesn't bleeding in general ensure there's no air left in the system? That is, isn't the brake designed to be able to push out the air?
I agree this guy is gonna kill someone
Why you pushed break piston back after mounting hose? Isn't it easier to do so before mounting hose? I can do if by finger without using tool.
Doesn't matter.
Thank you very helpful
You're welcome!
Hello there, I noticed the copper crush washer are completely flat on one side and more rounded/beveled on the other. Does the completely flat side have to be towards the flat metal surface of the brake line, and the rounded side facing the banjo bolt to make the proper seal so fluid won't leak? Thank you :)
Great observation! Never noticed that difference. I'd think the rounded side should face the banjo bolt and flat side against the inlet ring. The reason being the bolt will be rotating against the rounded side crushing it down and forming a good seal. Also , you have two (2) copper crush washers.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, thank you! I was thinking the exact same thing.. I also remember seeing a similar type washer on a Toyota Vans Transmission drain plug, which was also flat on one side, and more rounded/beveled on the other. However this washer was made of aluminum (much larger), and required much more torque to crush and seal. I'm not sure if it will make a difference however the washer is installed, or cause any leaks/issues. It is just interesting that they designed each side of the washer differently; I assumed there would be some rationale behind it.. :)
What did you do at the end with the clamps
It's not a clamp. It's a caliper piston compressor tool that presses in the piston so that it clears the brake pads for re-installation.
im burning thru brake pads now every 4000 miles on my camry . just replaced the front calipers and the problem still persists. any idea what the issue is?
Rear brakes may not be contributing to the overall stopping of the car. Tell tail sign would be the front end noise diving during braking.
@@hardlymovingpro well rear pads are wearing out too but they are consistent. whats the fix on lack of rear brake power? can a bad front brake hose be the issue? calipers are new up front and both wheels spin with no binding when the car is up on the lift
Maybe quality of brake pads may be a factor?
@@hardlymovingpro not in this case ...using the bet only getting 3500 miles out of a set now
Is the 99 Avalon the same 10mm fitting size on the metal line ?
yes.
Nice job..👍
Thanks 👍
What size is that brake line hose you fit inside end of brake line?
I do not know. Each make and model is different.
@@hardlymovingpro I know. For this job obviously I was wondering what size rubber brake line you used to put in the end of the line to slow the leak. That small 1 inch piece of rubber line. I have 97 es300. Same as this
I changed my caliper but was an emergency locking up and couldn't get the line until after I fixed it. I guess when I change pads and rotors again ill change the line and other caliper. I don't see fixing everything when the car only has 50k miles. Rubber still looks good and had good flex.
Now I know I have this car
‘“That should be good enough” aren’t words you want to hear from the guy fixing your brakes. Lol!
I've seen perfectionists take a couple minute procedure and turn it into hours.
Does a hose come with new washers?
It should.
Aren’t you u supposed to push the brake pads with bleeder screw open
Push down on brake pedal and open the bleeder screw ... close bleeder BEFORE releasing the pedal.
Only 24 like in this earth...and 1 dislike from mars.....loooool
I know ... go figure.
My wife asked my why I was listening to gay porn 😂😂😂😂😂
A 93 with only 23k miles!
Still can dry rot with age.
I have this sneaky suspicion I'm going to have to take life insurance out. On my wife. I'll give it a try but don't be surprised if I come back and give you a thumbs down.
You can always bring to your local repair shop.
@@hardlymovingpro I was just teasing. Will not attempt this without strict supervision. I always take it to Toyota. My wife will not trust me to fix her hairdryer let alone a brake job. Interesting to watch though
@@hhattingh Ditto!
I know. Thanks!
Toyota specifies torque values for the hose connection , banjo bolt and pins. But then he doesn't know how to use a torque wrench and probably doesn't have one. I'm not a perfectionist but this is way too sloppy for me. Please tell me you don't work on airplanes .
No ... I don't work on airplanes but do have a instrument rating.