Thanks everyone for watching. Looking forward to seeing what ideas you all have. I'm really leaning towards just cramming in a more powerful motor and hoping that tiny 3D printed drivetrain hangs on but we'll see. I've got a few other pretty hot motors on hand I can try out to see what happens. I guess little torque = moderate inconvenience would be a more accurate thumbnail but it just doesn't roll off the tongue 😛.
Might be able too do a taller motor mount or one that is offset left or right side and make a 2 gear setup with a ball bearing on the 2nd axle too ensure it's smooth & too get some more needed torque. If you need too reverse the direction of the gears a 3 gear setup too use an idler will be needed probably. The same size as the pinion or 3rd gear should do it or experiment with a few different designs maybe for lower gear ratios. While you don't have that much width too work with you can make quite a long gearbox and just double joint the rear axle probably if needed. Should help with torque of the brushless motor as well making like a 4 - 5 mm wide set of gears. Don't know what the gears would look like in a nano size servo but maybe the gears from an all metal gear micro servo could be the basis for the gearbox as well if you got some dead ones. If you have an SLA 3D printer you shouldn't have a problem designing a small gearbox or gears as small as 3 mm or so with the right design put into it. Though it can still shred gears ofc if you aren't taking it easy on takeoff. If you want too get some already made gears though you can get some pn racing aluminium pinions for the mini-z there are ofc plastic ones as well. As well as probably others searching like 64p pinion 2mm axle. Like a 2 gear setup with the motor reversed on the direction I'd imagine should work getting like a 6t pinion for the motor & then a 16t secondary for a 0.375 giving you a 2.67 mechanical advantage.
Maybe not gears, but you could print 2 small pulleys and use tiny black belts. The kind used to tie down hairs. (Just ask any girls lol) They are like 10mm across and with properly sized pulleys, you can acheive more torque. If it slips, add one more in parallel!
You could look at drone gear boxes. Also there is a min gearbox for a small rc mustang airplane take a look: Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D/Mini F4U/Mini T-28 Trojan RC Airplane Spare Part Gearbox
I doubt a micro gearbox would handle brushless power/rpms. I'd look for a motor the same size, but much lower kv...lower kv will have more torque, less cogging. The only other way to help at least the cogging, is a sensored motor.
Cool build Make It Rc! I looked up your current motor choice and the KV options available are way too high (7000 KV+) for you style build. Aim for half that rating, 2700 KV to 4500 KV (MAX.) The heavier the car = lower the KV rating. Agreed on the gear reduction, skip it....KISS. As you do, it will take some experimentation but I would start on the low end and work you way up. I found the same with my 1/10 General Lee builds: limited motor selections & very heavy body = HOT motors & popped batteries, but I was pushing it to get the "shot".
File down the shaft to fit the n20 gearbox. If you're not too worried about lenght you could also just hollow out the n20 can and use a shaft adapter to attach it to the armature.
My vote is for the larger motor instead of gear reduction. Very cool man my only complaint is you didn't do a burnout LOL. It wouldn't function well you would probably break them but this would be a good car for the leaf springs.
I'd probably go with a lower-kv outrunner for a direct drive setup; alternatively, I know a few people have adapted N20 gearboxes to similar motors for antweight combat robots or orlandoo hunter crawlers with a small adapter plate; shouldn't be too hard to do. I'm currently running one of those motors through the stock drivetrain in an ftx/rgt mini crawler, which works fine, but I suspect the gearbox might be a bit large to fit under the bonnet, plus the reduction's probably a bit high for this application. Scalextric gears might be worth a shot too; I've used them with a similar motor for an rc boat, although I'm swapping to direct drive outrunner on that. Another thing to consider is ESC choice; a BLheli32 with SinePWM mode enabled helped with low-speed controllability & torque on the aforementioned crawler; furitek's FOC ESCs might be a decent shout too, although I haven't tried them myself.
Wow that is great!! Have you thought about using a trans from an SCX 24? That may give you enough reduction and you may be able to hide it under the dash
Is there a way to hook a planetary up ti the diff? Like a rear transaxle? Or may be run a drive shaft from the motor to a gear box and another from the gearbox to the diff, with the gearbox mounted midship.
I can't wait till you get a really amazing streamlined process rc kit that will work with any model car by having a adjustable wheel base kind of like ho scale slot cars and other slot car scales have you just move the front axle on two different spots forward or back but instead of front axle moving on your kit just have the solid live axle able to move in different positions so we can use any kind of 1/24 and 1)25 kits. The way you got the website and way you gotta buy parts it's kind of intimidating because I don't wanna waist a bunch of money on parts to make my models rc and I won't be able to get it to work for some reason. Maybe sell a very simple way of having a whole kit that is universal. But also look at the way a tj speed legend car chassis is built that would be perfect design for these for the rear axles pan car style axles with bearings and a spur gear and pinion gear with slipper and look at how the RJ speed legends and other chassis are built if you scale down the spec 10 and the drag chassis they would work perfect for 1/24-1/25 scale on road oval and road course hobby grade racecars and drag racing hobby grade chassis as well. The legend car chassis and the spec 10 chassis scaled down would be perfect for any 1/24-1/25 scale racing classes. I would use the same axle setup that RJ speed uses and every other pan car uses the pod design it's simple easy to adjust ride height and wheel base and even you could make it where the bearing/bushing retainers for the rear axle has different slots to make wheel base longer and shorter then 3d print different offset height retainers so you can just push out the old one and push in new one in seconds. I would love to see this become a very popular form of racing rc cars because the type of cars and trucks for oval on road racing and drag racing and just scale rc car to drive are endless options on what you can build and creat for racing or just scale diorama cruise ins and street racing lol.
So you shouldn't try to 3d print a gearbox at all as the plastic gears cant take all of the rpm. Also if you do try to find a gearbox make sure the motor rpm is somewhat similar as I had a Wpl D12 that I put a rc helicopter motor into. I paired that up to a crawler gearbox and it worked good for a little bit. But in the end, the metal gears were going so fast that weak metal was not up to the task. I say maybe a crawler gearbox may work as a Scx24 transmission could work for a little bit. If that doesn't work then go ahead and get a more torque motor and that could work. On my channel I filmed me putting a scooter motor into a chassis I custom made and it was so powerful I couldn't stop it at 33% throttle. I did put direct drive from the motor to the differential as well so I can kinda relate to your situation as getting your hands on a gearbox or making your own is going to be very difficult.
Thanks everyone for watching. Looking forward to seeing what ideas you all have. I'm really leaning towards just cramming in a more powerful motor and hoping that tiny 3D printed drivetrain hangs on but we'll see. I've got a few other pretty hot motors on hand I can try out to see what happens. I guess little torque = moderate inconvenience would be a more accurate thumbnail but it just doesn't roll off the tongue 😛.
Carbon fiber filament is probably the way to go
Might be able too do a taller motor mount or one that is offset left or right side and make a 2 gear setup with a ball bearing on the 2nd axle too ensure it's smooth & too get some more needed torque.
If you need too reverse the direction of the gears a 3 gear setup too use an idler will be needed probably. The same size as the pinion or 3rd gear should do it or experiment with a few different designs maybe for lower gear ratios.
While you don't have that much width too work with you can make quite a long gearbox and just double joint the rear axle probably if needed.
Should help with torque of the brushless motor as well making like a 4 - 5 mm wide set of gears.
Don't know what the gears would look like in a nano size servo but maybe the gears from an all metal gear micro servo could be the basis for the gearbox as well if you got some dead ones.
If you have an SLA 3D printer you shouldn't have a problem designing a small gearbox or gears as small as 3 mm or so with the right design put into it.
Though it can still shred gears ofc if you aren't taking it easy on takeoff.
If you want too get some already made gears though you can get some pn racing aluminium pinions for the mini-z there are ofc plastic ones as well.
As well as probably others searching like 64p pinion 2mm axle.
Like a 2 gear setup with the motor reversed on the direction I'd imagine should work getting like a 6t pinion for the motor & then a 16t secondary for a 0.375 giving you a 2.67 mechanical advantage.
Maybe not gears, but you could print 2 small pulleys and use tiny black belts. The kind used to tie down hairs. (Just ask any girls lol)
They are like 10mm across and with properly sized pulleys, you can acheive more torque. If it slips, add one more in parallel!
Fantastic idea
You could look at drone gear boxes. Also there is a min gearbox for a small rc mustang airplane take a look: Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D/Mini F4U/Mini T-28 Trojan RC Airplane Spare Part Gearbox
I doubt a micro gearbox would handle brushless power/rpms. I'd look for a motor the same size, but much lower kv...lower kv will have more torque, less cogging. The only other way to help at least the cogging, is a sensored motor.
Cool build Make It Rc! I looked up your current motor choice and the KV options available are way too high (7000 KV+) for you style build. Aim for half that rating, 2700 KV to 4500 KV (MAX.) The heavier the car = lower the KV rating. Agreed on the gear reduction, skip it....KISS. As you do, it will take some experimentation but I would start on the low end and work you way up. I found the same with my 1/10 General Lee builds: limited motor selections & very heavy body = HOT motors & popped batteries, but I was pushing it to get the "shot".
When I see a trans am first thing I think about of coarse is Burt,got to paint it like the bandit. Should make a rig to go with it just like snowman’s
File down the shaft to fit the n20 gearbox. If you're not too worried about lenght you could also just hollow out the n20 can and use a shaft adapter to attach it to the armature.
Also checkout micro linear servos for steering
My vote is for the larger motor instead of gear reduction. Very cool man my only complaint is you didn't do a burnout LOL. It wouldn't function well you would probably break them but this would be a good car for the leaf springs.
Larger motor that fits gotta watch ground clearance
I'd probably go with a lower-kv outrunner for a direct drive setup; alternatively, I know a few people have adapted N20 gearboxes to similar motors for antweight combat robots or orlandoo hunter crawlers with a small adapter plate; shouldn't be too hard to do. I'm currently running one of those motors through the stock drivetrain in an ftx/rgt mini crawler, which works fine, but I suspect the gearbox might be a bit large to fit under the bonnet, plus the reduction's probably a bit high for this application. Scalextric gears might be worth a shot too; I've used them with a similar motor for an rc boat, although I'm swapping to direct drive outrunner on that. Another thing to consider is ESC choice; a BLheli32 with SinePWM mode enabled helped with low-speed controllability & torque on the aforementioned crawler; furitek's FOC ESCs might be a decent shout too, although I haven't tried them myself.
Wow that is great!! Have you thought about using a trans from an SCX 24? That may give you enough reduction and you may be able to hide it under the dash
Smokey and the bandit?
I have a semi I wanna do this with, old toys r us wire remote control
You should reach out to Jevries. He does a lot of model to RC conversions. He can probably help you
I've had the same problem with the 1/24 TF2
Is there a way to hook a planetary up ti the diff? Like a rear transaxle? Or may be run a drive shaft from the motor to a gear box and another from the gearbox to the diff, with the gearbox mounted midship.
This car would be a good one to put leaf springs on.
I can't wait till you get a really amazing streamlined process rc kit that will work with any model car by having a adjustable wheel base kind of like ho scale slot cars and other slot car scales have you just move the front axle on two different spots forward or back but instead of front axle moving on your kit just have the solid live axle able to move in different positions so we can use any kind of 1/24 and 1)25 kits. The way you got the website and way you gotta buy parts it's kind of intimidating because I don't wanna waist a bunch of money on parts to make my models rc and I won't be able to get it to work for some reason. Maybe sell a very simple way of having a whole kit that is universal. But also look at the way a tj speed legend car chassis is built that would be perfect design for these for the rear axles pan car style axles with bearings and a spur gear and pinion gear with slipper and look at how the RJ speed legends and other chassis are built if you scale down the spec 10 and the drag chassis they would work perfect for 1/24-1/25 scale on road oval and road course hobby grade racecars and drag racing hobby grade chassis as well. The legend car chassis and the spec 10 chassis scaled down would be perfect for any 1/24-1/25 scale racing classes. I would use the same axle setup that RJ speed uses and every other pan car uses the pod design it's simple easy to adjust ride height and wheel base and even you could make it where the bearing/bushing retainers for the rear axle has different slots to make wheel base longer and shorter then 3d print different offset height retainers so you can just push out the old one and push in new one in seconds. I would love to see this become a very popular form of racing rc cars because the type of cars and trucks for oval on road racing and drag racing and just scale rc car to drive are endless options on what you can build and creat for racing or just scale diorama cruise ins and street racing lol.
Frutech makes brushless motor some with gear box
Hi can you make a working lowrider/ hopping and cruiseing
I'm currently converting a die-cast firebird into a crawler
So you shouldn't try to 3d print a gearbox at all as the plastic gears cant take all of the rpm. Also if you do try to find a gearbox make sure the motor rpm is somewhat similar as I had a Wpl D12 that I put a rc helicopter motor into. I paired that up to a crawler gearbox and it worked good for a little bit. But in the end, the metal gears were going so fast that weak metal was not up to the task. I say maybe a crawler gearbox may work as a Scx24 transmission could work for a little bit. If that doesn't work then go ahead and get a more torque motor and that could work. On my channel I filmed me putting a scooter motor into a chassis I custom made and it was so powerful I couldn't stop it at 33% throttle. I did put direct drive from the motor to the differential as well so I can kinda relate to your situation as getting your hands on a gearbox or making your own is going to be very difficult.
Where did you get the model driver? Can never find a good one on eBay 🤷
Make a wpl d12 gearbox for it
Hi @Make it rc what motherboard you use?
Is it possible to order custom rc and pay you? I don't have to do on my own, but as a gift for my brother would be great.
tune your car to only run 50% on throttle. and maybe the brake drag. should be able to tune it.
Programmable Electronic speed controller
your videos always perfect @makeitrc