2006 Toyota Matrix XRS 2ZZGE engine, got the car from a customer after they ran it over a center divider and did not want to put the money in to fixing the damage. Long story short, got the car back to driving condition in a couple of days, had a high sticking idle only when letting off the gas and coming to a stop. Took the upper and lower intake off, replaced all manifold gaskets, replaced all of the vac lines. Still same problem. Replaced the IAC with a Dorman part as the factory part is near 500 $. Problem persisted. Car was parked for a year after that due to other projects. Fast forward to last week. Got lucky and found a throttle body with a factory IAC for 250$. Took a chance and purchased it. Got the parts, cleaned every thing up, installed on the car, p505 clear and has not come back. Car idles at 750-800 rpm and runs great. It had an after market IAC when I got it. so it can be proven, over and over again, never use aftermarket parts on your Toyota
Same damn issue I’m having. I’ve replaced the IACV with a eBay one and it did not fix the code. I replaced 3 different throttle bodies all from Pick a part cleaned them but never taken off the actual module due to special tool and still P0505. I think I’m going to order the special tool and clean the. OEM one and put it back on and see if that fixes my P0505 code.
I service Toyotas/Lexus/Hondas. You can utilize certain parts from Denso and Aisin since they are OE providers to these Japanese manufacturers. However, there are certain electronic parts that only come from the manufacturer and directly available from the Japanese manufacturers. Definitely stay away from Chinese made knock off parts. Amazon and EBay are filled with this junk.
@@jagtan13 Dorman is good for small insignificant plastic things like power steering reservoir caps, clips for door panels and hard to find dipsticks. For everything else, go with a well known and reputable brand or OE.
@@jamram9924 That's the funny thing, I've had dorman clips break sooo, yeah. Even the plastics they've been using have gone down in Quality. I've since been printing my own plastic parts out of esun PETG for clips and other mid temperature nick nacks, nothing directly under the sun. It's ridiculous.
@@jamram9924 I saw South Mian Auto use a Dorman rear hatch handle and it didn't even for and he had to modify it if he wanted to finish the job. So even "non significant parts" can still be trouble.
Mr Bill Simpson, I couldn't have said it better myself. There have been times my employer ordered a Dorkman part for something, and I simply refused to install it. Bought a Dorkman tailgate handle for my 01Tundra, it was just the basic black plastic, broke the first time tried to use it. Turned an bought an OE Yota handle, still working great to this day.... that was about 5yrs ago. You could just feel the difference just holding them.
Where do you get parts once they’re discontinued from Toyota? I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma and can’t find a EVAP vapor pressure sensor at any Toyota parts store.
@@lfuentes4098 I had a stubborn evap code on my 01 taco and read on some boards that a Lexus LS something part from the junk yard would work. I found one easy. Didn’t look the same but works like a charm, no problem.
I have a 2005 corolla xrs 6 speed and had to search The world for a secondary air injection pump and valve. They don't make them anymore so basically only dealers have them in stock. Cost over $700 for both parts and car runs great. He is correct that only O.E.M. is the way to go. It took me searching the internet etc to locate the parts but luckily got them in time for inspection time. Great video
Hello Peter. I have the same engine in my 2005 Corolla and it currently idles over 1K RPM so I'll be rebuilding my IAC valve and just buy a new gasket. Amazon sells the 22270-0D040 part number from $20 to $80 but I don't want to risk the rework. Thanks for sharing all three videos on this issue. I wish you would have recorded the cleaning of the electric portion of the IAC valve, but I imagine that would have been a very long video. I admire your patience and as a result of this series, I am now a follower of yours.
eBay and Amazon are full of counterfeit parts especially electronic parts including Spark Plugs and coil packs. Last year I ordered Denso plugs and ignition coil packs directly from Denso for my 2002 Lexus ES 300. Due to pandemic they only had 1 ignition coil pack in stock. Had to wait nearly 5 months for the remaining 5 coil packs to come in stock. Worth the wait.
When I purchased a used camry, the coil packs failed. They were aftermarkets. Car had 172k miles. My mechanic said he trusts Toyota OEM coil packs with 100k on them than aftermarket coil packs.
thanks to your videos i went with denso plugs, factory wires and denso coils for my truck. costs a little more but better to do it right once than have to do it again. also i found a split vacume hose and fixed it the way you showed. thanks again
Great video. It's amazing how often that happens. 1 out of 10 aftermarket parts might work. But I'm not a gambling man.. OEM all the way. Thanks Peter...
I don't agree. Aftermarket parts have worked for me about 8 out of 10 times. The factory part works 10 out of 10 times. The problem is that those 2 out of 10 times that the AM part doesn't work, it kills you. You swear I won't do it again but I do. If the price is higher I won't risk it with am AM part. However, if a dealer part is $400 and a reputable brand is $150, I will take the chance with the A M part. Again, 8 out of 10 isn't bad. Where are you getting your AM parts? The flea market? Amazon and eBay no-name brands? Dorman? You just have to do your homework. Research brands
@@jimb8842 You're right but I usually move on to another car before the part goes bad. Also that problem is not always. Many AM parts have never gone bad on me even with a car I've sold 7 years later. I usually buy older mice cars and sell it about 4 years later.
Just as an option, I looked up this 1.8 liter baby on Rock A and they said 44.78 for the private label part #2H1388 and zoom in the second pic and see what you see. Two very familiar names starting with T and D. That means as they explained, "manufacturers make parts to be sold by others." Only difference is it might come in a plain white box or similar from the distributor who bought in bulk. I remember doing this one time with a closeout "Parts Master" inventory and it turned out to be a Wix, just different packaging.
Finding out Ebay and Amazon sells counterfeit Toyota parts. Purchased parts brought them to dealer and were Chinese knockoff parts with Toyota labels. I go to the dealer from now on.
I have had many problems with non OEM parts for my Toyotas. Even things as simple as a doorman bolt for a disc brake didn't fit right. I will only buy Toyota original parts from Toyota if they still make it.
@@nordicpride9708 I believe it. Their business is new car sales. They farm out as much as they can. They can't afford to pay employees what they can get parts for by going outside. What percentage of a Toyota is manufactured by Toyota? or any car manufacturer?
Great, you do realise that he didn't use an aftermarket Denso product though, he used a Dorman aftermarket part, completely different. Denso produce high quality products, Dorman is the absolute opposite, a high percentage are scrap straight out of the box
Got a Denso eng air filter for my 01Tundra for $10 and a set of rubber "O-ring" style v/c gaskets both for my Tundra, not have been flawless. But yes, I'm about to buy a Denso "front pads and rotors" kit from Rock Auto as well. About 1/2 the money of parts stores....
I had a similar QC issue on an aftermarket Honda motor mount. The screw holes did not line up!!! The OEM part was twice the price of the most expensive aftermarket equal.
I’ve been burned by not only aftermarket parts, but also by counterfeit parts. Stamped Toyota and they were in a “Toyota/Lexus” box. Fake spark plugs wrecked havoc on my Tundra after 10k miles.
So true, I had a 2002 Tacoma with a failed clutch master cylinder. I picked up a Discount auto parts replacement, went through all the trouble of replacement, and the NEW part functionality was ALMOST worse than the old used up part! And it LEAKED, fresh out of the box...
Hello and thanks for sharing these videos. In my experience as a customer, there are parts for a car that you shouldn't buy aftermarket and that are usually the parts that are next to the engine. Otherwise, suspension, braking, some kind of cushions are fine, but even there there is aftermarket and aftermarket.
Sadly, some cars like my 1985 Toyota Tercel wagon do not have the ability to purchase OEM parts on many occasions. It becomes a process of identifying what brands can be trusted.
Thank you! I'm learning this the hard way, especially with the electronic parts... don't know what I was thinking putting cheapie Chinese parts in Japanese car. Probably why I'm still having my issues. No engine codes, so I'm forced to throw parts at it.
Bought a set of Dorman parking brake bell cranks for my 2001 Tundra. The arm wouldn't even properly fit inside the bracket that was INCLUDED with the part... I had to take an angle grinder to them before they were usable. Couldn't believe such a simple part could be so screwed up. Never buying anything Dorman ever again.
A friend of mine is an independent shop owner and tells customers straight away that he will NOT use aftermarket parts no matter the make. He will only use OEM regardless of price because of all the issues he's had with AM parts and returns. He's lost some business but he said he doesn't mind as he's plenty busy regardless. I just took my Solara to him for a timing belt and although an AM kit can be bought for about $120 he's installing the OEM kit for about $350 including the water pump. I don't mind as I know it'll last. Taking chances on some easy to replace part is one thing but something like a timing service is much different.
Toyota doesn't make the parts, they get them from Denso, NGK, etc. Same for their fluids, lubricants, and sealants. You just gotta be smart about the parts you buy, and from whom, and not have a 'Wal-Mart' mentality. Your buddy doesn't care, be just passes the cost onto the consumer. But, to some people, being able to buy the same part for half as much may mean the difference between making rent or not. Here's a non-Toyota example. '05 Acura TLX water pump, $218 from the dealer. Aisin part from Rock Auto, $68. Aisin part had "Acura" ground off of it as they're an OEM for Acura water pumps, and probably easier to make one part than to control for demand between aftermarket and dealer demand. An Aisin timing belt kit costs $250 for this vehicle with water pump, etc. Dealer kit is $650. The difficulty is having the knowledge and experience to know what aftermarket parts to trust. That $400 difference in the example above just happens to be the exact amount that 36% of Americans couldn't afford as an unexpected expense in 2020.
It's not pretending to be a genuine OEM part, that would make it a counterfeit, it's sold as an aftermarket part, produced with as many corners cut as they can find, especially quality control. The part wasn't counterfeit, it was poorly manufactured and very low quality, to the point it doesn't even fit, let alone work. I don't know how this company is still in business at this stage, such is their reputation
Don't worry Peter you had no choice but to fix it. A used junkyard part is better than a new dorman part. I have good luck from Standard Motor Products/Intermotor Corp, but that's just anecdotal. Anything better than dorman.
It is probably the set voltage perimeters not aligning with the dorman part. The computer only know the voltage difference to differentiate between a malfunctioned part vs properly functionally part.
2008 Toyota Sienna van. I used Dorman parts on two occasions with disappointing results. 1. Replacement drivers door check failed within a week of installation. 2. Replacement plastic radiator filler neck retaining clip slot was deformed and clip could not be installed. Dorman parts are IMHO are not even close to OEM standards for material, engineering and fitment.
It just depends on the part. Dorman is fine for things like window actuators. I'd have a hard time justifying a 4x higher price on that part. I would also have tried to restore the original part. That particular part I would have sent back for sure. It's not the kind of part where the user expects to have chase bolts holes to make it fit. I still would check the voltage levels being passed to the IAC valve to eliminate the ecu.
I would return the part, probably faulty out of the box anyway. With a higher grade scan tool there are some things that need to be taught again. I don't think with the year of the car this is one but sometimes these days you have to let the vehicle know you installed a new part.
We've seen OE= original parts= when from a solid Co. Like Napa! Dorman! Gates! Donavan! Interstate battery!= match THE O.E= QUALITY= AT LESS THAN HALF THE COST!! THEY ALSO HAVE EXTENDED LIFE TIME REPLACEMENTS! SO IT'S GOT TO BE EXCELLENT! THEY STAND BEHIND THEM! ANYTHING TOYOTA WILL HAVE A HUGE MARK UP PRICE!
I use to have a 2009 Rav4. Monroe shocks from the factory lasted 9 years with no rust on the shock case. Bought Monroe replacement shocks. 1 year later the shocks cases were completely rusted. For some reason the OEM shocks had thicker gauge case on them. Asked Monroe for part number for the OEM and they would just tell me the number of the shock that only lasted a year.
My 01 Tundra, 175k-ish miles, bought some Monroe coil overs for the front. They didn't ride as well and where more bouncy than the (I thought) wore out OE KYBs that were on it.
Oh crap!!!!! it is as if my computer saw me order the aftermarket part then the next day this video popped up while watching youtube. I didnt by the same brand but it is still aftermarket. $70 vs $250 is extreme. I thought I would try it and see if it changed or smoothed out the idle in my 2.4. If it does smooth her out I could bite the bullet and buy the oem now knowing this was the cause for my low rough idle. Now I am unsure of my plan. Here is my theory.....maybe....just maybe the 2001 ECU isnt as smart as that 2004 ecu that you were working on. I will report back after install. Thanks for the vids!
Aisin makes Toyota transmissions and Toyota partly owns them. I got Aisin CVT trans fluid from RockAuto and worked perfectly. Aisin is not going to put their name on fluid that will damage their transmission 30,000 miles later and risk people thinking their trannys are bad. Aisin was 8 a quart for Toyota specific CVT fluid. The cheapest I could find the 4 liter dealership can was about $80. My closest Toyota dealer wanted $123 for the same can!!!!! Dorman is garbage for most items. I met a guy who replaced a window regulator with a Dorman unit and went bad after only a month. I will keep buying aftermarket because most times they work. Don't buy aftermarket on hard to install parts or parts that cannot be returned.
The question is, are the aftermarket parts inferior or has Toyota figured out how to make their cars reject any non OEM part? If they didn’t charge four times the price of OEM stuff maybe people wouldn’t be tempted to use them!
Right out of the box, the drilled holes didn’t fit the throttle body perfectly! Companies spend a lot of money on R&D…do you think they will open source to anyone that want to copy?
@@nuniabiz7982 I understand and I agree….BUT…..when parts aren’t available and an aftermarket part is at a quarter of the price what would you do? I guess if a person had an extra car or could take the bus to work it wouldn’t be a problem. For others they wouldn’t have much of a choice!
I COMPLETELY understand that at times, situation pending, you may just have to go with what you can get when, or what's available. But, when possible, if you want quality and reliability, you gotta pay for it!
Actually got an MSD coil for my chevy truck. Pretty damn name brand. Failed the next day. Comp cams brake vacuum pump for my car. Probably failed before it left the manufacturing facility. Have seen parts or equipment failures in residential construction too. Nothings made worth a 💩 anymore. Hopefully the Toyota parts from Toyota will last
I have a '99 Camry for 21 years with 336k miles. For years I have put up with a rough idle because I couldn't figure out what was causing it. I replaced the original IAC at maybe 150k because the rubber gasket around it started leaking coolant so I bought a new IAC and gasket (aftermarket)... And replaced it recently with another aftermarket IAC thinking maybe it's why I have a rough idle? Next one gave me same rough idle. So I thought ok it's not the IAC... Well I found my original one in a box of parts. I check the internal dual IAC coils. Resistance was good on both. I cleaned it really well lubed it, put new rubber gasket on it, installed it and now I have a perfect idle again after many years! Keep the original parts when ever you can!!!
You may have to do an Idle relearn on this vehicle part... Disconnect battery for 5 min or so.. Run idle up to 1500 then back again a few times.. This may solve the Dorman part problem???
Dorman product are very sketchy. I took a chance on a vacuum modulator (not Dorman) for my 2.7L Tacoma with a cheap aftermarket unit. It was easy to trouble shoot and easy to replace so took that chance. So far so good after a few years. I have used Dorman body parts before and they didn't last.
Dorman is garbage. I had the same IAC valve problem in my Sienna. Took it off and drowned it in throttle body cleaner several times. Fixed the problem.
I'm am currently having the same problem with my 05 Scion xB. Last summer replaced with a denso part got about less than a year out of it and had to replace it again now only a few months later and it's doing the same thing p0505 code. Car runs fine just a slightly higher idle 700-900 rpm range. Tired of dealing with a warranty to replace a part that is going to ending up failing.
I'd like to buy a Toyota part, but I was just told 18 weeks for a wheel bearing. I may have to buy an aftermarket part to see me through until it comes in.
I have a 2006 RAV4 Sport with the 2.4L engine. About 3 years ago I had the front pads and rotors replaced with non-Toyota parts. That was a mistake, the pads are noisy, and the rotors are warped. Does Toyota have a kit that includes all the necessary parts to restore the front bakes back to stock? If not, where can I get a list of the necessary parts? Much thanks.
MEH, One defective part doesn't mean the entire brand is bad. And it's almost impossible to tell a genuine Toyota part from a fake. I recently bought a "genuine" Toyota MAF sensor and while the box said made in Japan, the Toyota/Denso part (22204-22010) matched the OEM but without the made in Japan claim. Actually the new sensor had a large "C" font on it, so maybe it meant copy, but it worked. A genuine Denso oxygen sensor (#234-4624) had the part # on the box and on the sealed bag but had #42240 and 12F10 on the part itself, which I found odd. Anyway, it appears the only thing the 2000 Echo doesn't like are the cheap aftermarket fuel injectors because it says: system too rich bank 1, and the idle is high. I don't see any vacuum leaks so I'll clean the IAP next. I just finished correcting a bunch of EVAP codes (P0440, P0441, P0446) by changing the two lines that run from the engine back to the charcoal canister since they were totally clogged. Bought a new Dorman canister as well. I should add that this Echo has been sitting in the yard for 17 years since it went off a dock, crashed through a thin sheet of ice and landed on all 4 wheels in about a foot of water. I guess with 4 young teens, it wasn’t nose heavy. I took the interior out to dry and deep clean, changed the ECU, and changed all the fluids but the trans had a clog so I finally got around to replacing it. Then I had to clean out the fuel tank, replace the fuel pump, replace the frozen alternator, the noisy air compressor, the frozen cooling fan(s), and the frozen blower motor. Apparently everything rusted internally. I mean I took everything apart, cleaned and lubed everything but ultimately everything needed replacement. I’m amazed how smooth and quiet that engine is.
Am a mercanic and have been using aftermarket parts for over 30years and never had a problem . Main dealer parts are a total rip off expecially nissan and Toyota
Not all aftermarket are ill-fitted, inop crap out of the box - I have had very good luck with Valeo and Japanese made Exedy clutch components... Now electronic components; Yeah a lot of junk out there, esp reman starters/alternators/actuators, etc... I have had OK luck with Dorman overall, but it could be better. I have also gotten genuine Toyota junk too - Camry W. pump leaked from the weep hole at not even 40k miles... Course they always had problems with OEM pumps (2AZ-FE).
The lesson to learn here is if the original Toyota part can be serviced, fixed, it is far better to spend the time to do that rather than use aftermarket junk like Dorman, where most of the time you'll do the job twice and be out of pocket.
You have me worried thinking that ]the screws that need to be removed in order to clean the IAC were not removable because I've done this job on 4 different Toyota camrys without any problem as a preventive maintenance job 400 dollars is too much money if I can clean it myself.
My 05 Scion xA has 271,000 on it. And it hates the AC or defrost on when at a stop. It will idle real low almost as if it wants to stall but never does. I think the IAC is the culprit or maybe something else idk.
Not all aftermarket is bad but Dorman is just meh, sometimes if you're lucky, its just rebadged OE parts and sometimes they are the OE manufacturer. But in this case, it appears that there's 2 IAC part # listed for the Matrix, one for rear disc brakes and one for drum when you look at Standard Motor Products and WVE but Dorman only list that one part. That Doman IAC is also listed for the Corolla and that one also have different parts if it's JPP or US made, so maybe it's the wrong part? Seems like the Dorman part is for JPP/drum brakes, where is this Matrix built/trim?
Maybe don’t go with Dorman but another manufacturer. Not all are the same. And a lot of “Toyota parts are actually manufactured by other companies and just have Toyota on them
I wonder if you did a short video showing him got to check the proper oil level since a cold engine can have the dipstick read half to ¾ a quart low since liquid can expand. According to Ahmed, master Toyo tech. Check after engine is fully warmed up. And engine has been turned off for one minute to settle down from the top end. According to him and engine is fully warmed up after 7½ miles of driving or 15 minutes. Personally I think when the coolant reaches 165-180°F or when the temp gauge reaches operating temp just over half mark it usually goes to is fully warmed up, but I'm not going to argue with a master tech's theory that he wants. Underfilled by that much is better (although not ideal) than overfilling by that much, having the crank foam the oil splash and now you have air in the oil and that's less lubrication, and potential to throw a rod if a piston seizes. People can search engine drive cycles for their particular Toy model because some have very particular conditions to set monitors like Evap and similar. Some states do not require smog/emissions testing, however of the states that do, some allow one or two monitors to be incomplete and allow pass for registration/transfer (sale). Some strict states require emissions compliant parts or no modification to the exhaust and some will allow more or less monitors to be tested if the car falls in a certain year. California requires an additional test (EVAP) for certain years like that Camry that pulled in for the oil level check.
Who the hell gave you that advice???? Hydraulic fluid like ATF expands, but engine oil isn’t the same. Can there be some expansion… yes but barely. Engines should always be checked cold and after sitting on a level surface. Read any OEM manual and tell me I’m wrong! A transmission is a totally different story
@@nordicpride9708 as I said above the master Toyota tech working at a current dealership and his name is Ahmed. How many years have you worked at Toyota or are you just a senior citizen with opinions from hell.
@@daijoubu4529 measure it hot. No owners manual says measures MOTOR OIL cold. By then you overfilled a cold snack engine and the moving parts whipping air into the oil will cause lack of oil to surface contact destroying your engine.
Maybe the computer needs to run 100 miles to relearn the new part? Not much circuitry on that idle regulator, no? What kind of sensor is supposed to be integrated on that idle regulator? Okay, nevermind, I see that it continued to code because it never sealed. Patience is a virtue.
2006 Toyota Matrix XRS 2ZZGE engine, got the car from a customer after they ran it over a center divider and did not want to put the money in to fixing the damage. Long story short, got the car back to driving condition in a couple of days, had a high sticking idle only when letting off the gas and coming to a stop. Took the upper and lower intake off, replaced all manifold gaskets, replaced all of the vac lines. Still same problem. Replaced the IAC with a Dorman part as the factory part is near 500 $. Problem persisted. Car was parked for a year after that due to other projects. Fast forward to last week. Got lucky and found a throttle body with a factory IAC for 250$. Took a chance and purchased it. Got the parts, cleaned every thing up, installed on the car, p505 clear and has not come back. Car idles at 750-800 rpm and runs great. It had an after market IAC when I got it. so it can be proven, over and over again, never use aftermarket parts on your Toyota
Same damn issue I’m having. I’ve replaced the IACV with a eBay one and it did not fix the code. I replaced 3 different throttle bodies all from Pick a part cleaned them but never taken off the actual module due to special tool and still P0505. I think I’m going to order the special tool and clean the. OEM one and put it back on and see if that fixes my P0505 code.
I service Toyotas/Lexus/Hondas. You can utilize certain parts from Denso and Aisin since they are OE providers to these Japanese manufacturers. However, there are certain electronic parts that only come from the manufacturer and directly available from the Japanese manufacturers. Definitely stay away from Chinese made knock off parts. Amazon and EBay are filled with this junk.
Dorman is the plague of amazon! and many others lol it's hit or miss with 50% of what I've purchased from them.
@@jagtan13 Dorman is good for small insignificant plastic things like power steering reservoir caps, clips for door panels and hard to find dipsticks. For everything else, go with a well known and reputable brand or OE.
@@jamram9924 That's the funny thing, I've had dorman clips break sooo, yeah. Even the plastics they've been using have gone down in Quality. I've since been printing my own plastic parts out of esun PETG for clips and other mid temperature nick nacks, nothing directly under the sun. It's ridiculous.
@@jamram9924 I saw South Mian Auto use a Dorman rear hatch handle and it didn't even for and he had to modify it if he wanted to finish the job. So even "non significant parts" can still be trouble.
Dorman electronic replacement parts are known to have a high failure rate right out of the box. Much of their electronic parts are pure junk.
Dorman is only good for interior or exterior trim fastener’s
@@tommypistols8104 I bought a Dorman inside door handle for my Corolla. The sturdiness is a far cry from the OEM but it works and hasn't broken yet.
Mr Bill Simpson, I couldn't have said it better myself. There have been times my employer ordered a Dorkman part for something, and I simply refused to install it. Bought a Dorkman tailgate handle for my 01Tundra, it was just the basic black plastic, broke the first time tried to use it. Turned an bought an OE Yota handle, still working great to this day.... that was about 5yrs ago. You could just feel the difference just holding them.
This is a good example of why I only buy OEM Toyota parts for my 95 Tacoma. A 27 yr. old truck that I have never had any bad issues with.
@Account NumberEight How long did the factory one last?
Where do you get parts once they’re discontinued from Toyota? I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma and can’t find a EVAP vapor pressure sensor at any Toyota parts store.
@@lfuentes4098 What is the part number? VIN would help.
@@lfuentes4098 I had a stubborn evap code on my 01 taco and read on some boards that a Lexus LS something part from the junk yard would work. I found one easy. Didn’t look the same but works like a charm, no problem.
@@joekresan8990 Cool thanks. Maybe next time. I found a used OEM and installed it. So far so good.
I have a 2005 corolla xrs 6 speed and had to search The world for a secondary air injection pump and valve. They don't make them anymore so basically only dealers have them in stock. Cost over $700 for both parts and car runs great. He is correct that only O.E.M. is the way to go. It took me searching the internet etc to locate the parts but luckily got them in time for inspection time. Great video
Hello Peter. I have the same engine in my 2005 Corolla and it currently idles over 1K RPM so I'll be rebuilding my IAC valve and just buy a new gasket. Amazon sells the 22270-0D040 part number from $20 to $80 but I don't want to risk the rework. Thanks for sharing all three videos on this issue. I wish you would have recorded the cleaning of the electric portion of the IAC valve, but I imagine that would have been a very long video. I admire your patience and as a result of this series, I am now a follower of yours.
McGeorge Toyota is the best prices on genuine Toyota parts. They're a wholesaler and I order from them all the time
eBay and Amazon are full of counterfeit parts especially electronic parts including Spark Plugs and coil packs.
Last year I ordered Denso plugs and ignition coil packs directly from Denso for my 2002 Lexus ES 300. Due to pandemic they only had 1 ignition coil pack in stock. Had to wait nearly 5 months for the remaining 5 coil packs to come in stock.
Worth the wait.
When I purchased a used camry, the coil packs failed. They were aftermarkets. Car had 172k miles. My mechanic said he trusts Toyota OEM coil packs with 100k on them than aftermarket coil packs.
Not worth the wait if the car won’t run! Another reason people take a chance with aftermarket parts!
I agree 100% on buying OEM for your Toyota.
There are lots of high-quality aftermarket parts. Sankei-555 suspension parts for example.
Exactly! They make suspension parts for Toyota and made in Japan 🇯🇵
thanks to your videos i went with denso plugs, factory wires and denso coils for my truck. costs a little more but better to do it right once than have to do it again. also i found a split vacume hose and fixed it the way you showed. thanks again
Great video. It's amazing how often that happens. 1 out of 10 aftermarket parts might work. But I'm not a gambling man.. OEM all the way. Thanks Peter...
2005 Toyota Tacoma Love my Toyota's All 3
I don't agree. Aftermarket parts have worked for me about 8 out of 10 times. The factory part works 10 out of 10 times. The problem is that those 2 out of 10 times that the AM part doesn't work, it kills you. You swear I won't do it again but I do.
If the price is higher I won't risk it with am AM part. However, if a dealer part is $400 and a reputable brand is $150, I will take the chance with the A M part. Again, 8 out of 10 isn't bad. Where are you getting your AM parts? The flea market? Amazon and eBay no-name brands? Dorman? You just have to do your homework. Research brands
@@yactabay Even if the aftermarket part works, they often only last a fraction of the time/mileage that the original part lasted.
@@jimb8842 You're right but I usually move on to another car before the part goes bad. Also that problem is not always. Many AM parts have never gone bad on me even with a car I've sold 7 years later. I usually buy older mice cars and sell it about 4 years later.
Just as an option, I looked up this 1.8 liter baby on Rock A and they said 44.78 for the private label part #2H1388 and zoom in the second pic and see what you see. Two very familiar names starting with T and D. That means as they explained, "manufacturers make parts to be sold by others." Only difference is it might come in a plain white box or similar from the distributor who bought in bulk. I remember doing this one time with a closeout "Parts Master" inventory and it turned out to be a Wix, just different packaging.
Nice catch, it says Denso on the WVE part
Good to know. Thx👍😁👍
Real problem here is the rip off price of OEM parts.
Finding out Ebay and Amazon sells counterfeit Toyota parts. Purchased parts brought them to dealer and were Chinese knockoff parts with Toyota labels. I go to the dealer from now on.
I never buy OEM parts on eBay unless it is from a verified dealer.
Even ngk plugs are being counterfeited , the Chinese are out of control
@@Anon1mous Napa PLATINUM PARTS WILL SAVE YOU LOTS OF 💰💰💰💰💰THEY ARE MADE TO EXACTING QUALITY! AND HAVE A LIFETIME REPLACEMENTS! FREE!
I have had many problems with non OEM parts for my Toyotas. Even things as simple as a doorman bolt for a disc brake didn't fit right. I will only buy Toyota original parts from Toyota if they still make it.
If you buy Denso, Aisin, NGK, GMB, akebono, nissin or other Japanese brands then you shouldn’t have any problems
Dorman and Chinese made us the problem. There are aftermarket parts especially for brakes that are reliable like Akebono.
Yeah good luck with that! All car manufacturers including Toyota are ceasing production of parts for cars over 10+ years
@@nordicpride9708 I believe it. Their business is new car sales. They farm out as much as they can. They can't afford to pay employees what they can get parts for by going outside. What percentage of a Toyota is manufactured by Toyota? or any car manufacturer?
Dorman is an OEM. Just saying.
Toyota own 20% of the shares of Denso and Denso manufactures genuine Toyota parts.
Great, you do realise that he didn't use an aftermarket Denso product though, he used a Dorman aftermarket part, completely different. Denso produce high quality products, Dorman is the absolute opposite, a high percentage are scrap straight out of the box
My cousin works for Denso in Guelph, Ontario, Canada. They make great part’s for Toyota vehicles. Cheers, Peter! 🇨🇦🇺🇸
Got a Denso eng air filter for my 01Tundra for $10 and a set of rubber "O-ring" style v/c gaskets both for my Tundra, not have been flawless. But yes, I'm about to buy a Denso "front pads and rotors" kit from Rock Auto as well. About 1/2 the money of parts stores....
I had a similar QC issue on an aftermarket Honda motor mount. The screw holes did not line up!!! The OEM part was twice the price of the most expensive aftermarket equal.
Nothing to say except you are the best. I love your videos.
I’ve been burned by not only aftermarket parts, but also by counterfeit parts. Stamped Toyota and they were in a “Toyota/Lexus” box.
Fake spark plugs wrecked havoc on my Tundra after 10k miles.
Good reason to get Denso from a local auto parts dealer or the actual dealer. Only way to avoid the fakes
@@nordicpride9708 I agree, sometimes they equal the online price.
Blessings
Me too
Made the mistaking of getting an aftermarket MAF sensor, it just did not drive correctly. Also had issues with fake motor mounts.
It’s always BEST to get OEM parts if you could or repair the old ones is last resort! Good video! 👍👍👍
Excellent work as always
So true, I had a 2002 Tacoma with a failed clutch master cylinder. I picked up a Discount auto parts replacement, went through all the trouble of replacement, and the NEW part functionality was ALMOST worse than the old used up part! And it LEAKED, fresh out of the box...
Great work Petr! Nice glasses. The other ones made you look older.
Hi. A great video my friend. Spare parts chinese, korean and taiwan do not serve and malfunctions. Same problem in Venezuela.
Hello and thanks for sharing these videos. In my experience as a customer, there are parts for a car that you shouldn't buy aftermarket and that are usually the parts that are next to the engine. Otherwise, suspension, braking, some kind of cushions are fine, but even there there is aftermarket and aftermarket.
OEM is the only way to go! I found out the hard way some years back when I changed out my fan belt clutch in my 1988 Toyota 4×4 truck. 😒
Sadly, some cars like my 1985 Toyota Tercel wagon do not have the ability to purchase OEM parts on many occasions. It becomes a process of identifying what brands can be trusted.
While I agree OEM parts are best...$400 for an IAC but unavailable,......good grief. It is also true Dorman products are most often JUNK.
I only use OEM parts for my RAV4. I want quality parts so it runs perfectly.
Thank you! I'm learning this the hard way, especially with the electronic parts... don't know what I was thinking putting cheapie Chinese parts in Japanese car. Probably why I'm still having my issues. No engine codes, so I'm forced to throw parts at it.
Thanks olmate for your info,there are no such thing as mistakes ,only miss takes lol😅😊❤
Another lesson learned. Thank you very much!
Wonderful analysis and resolution Peter! Please keep up the excellent work!
Yes ! Especially gaskets 👍🏽
I learned that the hard way with the thermostat O ring on my 03 Corolla. It immediately started dripping coolant.
I hear Fel Pro makes good gaskets though
@@LAactor they also rebaged, some could be OE ones
First thing I did when I got my 4 runner is got to pick and pull and grab a bunch of spare parts like throttle body, iac, coils, etc...
is there a small testing tool I can use to see if the part is good before I pull the part from the junkyard? Just want to get OEM parts too.
@@carolhillard4623 it's hard to test on the lot so you'll have to trust visual inspection.
I have had numerus problems with Dorman parts, however sometimes that is all that is availadle.
I bought a diesel truck which had Dorman vane position sensor and a vane actuator kept getting codes for both. replace with OEM no more problems.
Eric the car guy has had similar problems with aftermarket parts.
Bought a set of Dorman parking brake bell cranks for my 2001 Tundra. The arm wouldn't even properly fit inside the bracket that was INCLUDED with the part... I had to take an angle grinder to them before they were usable. Couldn't believe such a simple part could be so screwed up. Never buying anything Dorman ever again.
A friend of mine is an independent shop owner and tells customers straight away that he will NOT use aftermarket parts no matter the make. He will only use OEM regardless of price because of all the issues he's had with AM parts and returns. He's lost some business but he said he doesn't mind as he's plenty busy regardless. I just took my Solara to him for a timing belt and although an AM kit can be bought for about $120 he's installing the OEM kit for about $350 including the water pump. I don't mind as I know it'll last. Taking chances on some easy to replace part is one thing but something like a timing service is much different.
ASIN kit is perfectly fine, all OE parts
Toyota doesn't make the parts, they get them from Denso, NGK, etc. Same for their fluids, lubricants, and sealants. You just gotta be smart about the parts you buy, and from whom, and not have a 'Wal-Mart' mentality. Your buddy doesn't care, be just passes the cost onto the consumer. But, to some people, being able to buy the same part for half as much may mean the difference between making rent or not.
Here's a non-Toyota example. '05 Acura TLX water pump, $218 from the dealer. Aisin part from Rock Auto, $68. Aisin part had "Acura" ground off of it as they're an OEM for Acura water pumps, and probably easier to make one part than to control for demand between aftermarket and dealer demand. An Aisin timing belt kit costs $250 for this vehicle with water pump, etc. Dealer kit is $650. The difficulty is having the knowledge and experience to know what aftermarket parts to trust.
That $400 difference in the example above just happens to be the exact amount that 36% of Americans couldn't afford as an unexpected expense in 2020.
It’s hard to tell sometimes, as the counterfeits look just the same as the original. I guess if it’s to good to be true it probably is.
It's not pretending to be a genuine OEM part, that would make it a counterfeit, it's sold as an aftermarket part, produced with as many corners cut as they can find, especially quality control. The part wasn't counterfeit, it was poorly manufactured and very low quality, to the point it doesn't even fit, let alone work. I don't know how this company is still in business at this stage, such is their reputation
Don't worry Peter you had no choice but to fix it. A used junkyard part is better than a new dorman part. I have good luck from Standard Motor Products/Intermotor Corp, but that's just anecdotal. Anything better than dorman.
It is probably the set voltage perimeters not aligning with the dorman part. The computer only know the voltage difference to differentiate between a malfunctioned part vs properly functionally part.
Very true after market alternators, starters only lasted 2yrs or 12,000 miles
2008 Toyota Sienna van. I used Dorman parts on two occasions with disappointing results. 1. Replacement drivers door check failed within a week of installation. 2. Replacement plastic radiator filler neck retaining clip slot was deformed and clip could not be installed. Dorman parts are IMHO are not even close to OEM standards for material, engineering and fitment.
It just depends on the part.
Dorman is fine for things like window actuators.
I'd have a hard time justifying a 4x higher price on that part.
I would also have tried to restore the original part.
That particular part I would have sent back for sure. It's not the kind of part where the user expects to have chase bolts holes to make it fit.
I still would check the voltage levels being passed to the IAC valve to eliminate the ecu.
I would return the part, probably faulty out of the box anyway. With a higher grade scan tool there are some things that need to be taught again. I don't think with the year of the car this is one but sometimes these days you have to let the vehicle know you installed a new part.
We've seen OE= original parts= when from a solid Co. Like Napa! Dorman! Gates! Donavan! Interstate battery!= match THE O.E= QUALITY= AT LESS THAN HALF THE COST!! THEY ALSO HAVE EXTENDED LIFE TIME REPLACEMENTS! SO IT'S GOT TO BE EXCELLENT! THEY STAND BEHIND THEM! ANYTHING TOYOTA WILL HAVE A HUGE MARK UP PRICE!
Sometimes parts availability paint us into a corner, and we get bitten. Tough lesson to learn sometimes.
I use to have a 2009 Rav4. Monroe shocks from the factory lasted 9 years with no rust on the shock case. Bought Monroe replacement shocks. 1 year later the shocks cases were completely rusted. For some reason the OEM shocks had thicker gauge case on them. Asked Monroe for part number for the OEM and they would just tell me the number of the shock that only lasted a year.
I think Monroe have more than one supplier, I had some Quick Struts with same part # and they had different springs fitted lol
My 01 Tundra, 175k-ish miles, bought some Monroe coil overs for the front. They didn't ride as well and where more bouncy than the (I thought) wore out OE KYBs that were on it.
Oh crap!!!!! it is as if my computer saw me order the aftermarket part then the next day this video popped up while watching youtube. I didnt by the same brand but it is still aftermarket. $70 vs $250 is extreme. I thought I would try it and see if it changed or smoothed out the idle in my 2.4. If it does smooth her out I could bite the bullet and buy the oem now knowing this was the cause for my low rough idle. Now I am unsure of my plan. Here is my theory.....maybe....just maybe the 2001 ECU isnt as smart as that 2004 ecu that you were working on. I will report back after install. Thanks for the vids!
Aisin makes Toyota transmissions and Toyota partly owns them. I got Aisin CVT trans fluid from RockAuto and worked perfectly. Aisin is not going to put their name on fluid that will damage their transmission 30,000 miles later and risk people thinking their trannys are bad. Aisin was 8 a quart for Toyota specific CVT fluid. The cheapest I could find the 4 liter dealership can was about $80. My closest Toyota dealer wanted $123 for the same can!!!!!
Dorman is garbage for most items. I met a guy who replaced a window regulator with a Dorman unit and went bad after only a month. I will keep buying aftermarket because most times they work. Don't buy aftermarket on hard to install parts or parts that cannot be returned.
I buy all kinds of aftermarket parts for my Toyota online. Anything Asin or Mitsubishi, amb bearings.
Interesting video peter, thanks for sharing.
The question is, are the aftermarket parts inferior or has Toyota figured out how to make their cars reject any non OEM part? If they didn’t charge four times the price of OEM stuff maybe people wouldn’t be tempted to use them!
Right out of the box, the drilled holes didn’t fit the throttle body perfectly! Companies spend a lot of money on R&D…do you think they will open source to anyone that want to copy?
@@nuniabiz7982 I understand and I agree….BUT…..when parts aren’t available and an aftermarket part is at a quarter of the price what would you do? I guess if a person had an extra car or could take the bus to work it wouldn’t be a problem. For others they wouldn’t have much of a choice!
@@craigjorgensen4637 I agree! I had to do that once or twice with my 2007 corolla.
I COMPLETELY understand that at times, situation pending, you may just have to go with what you can get when, or what's available. But, when possible, if you want quality and reliability, you gotta pay for it!
awesome content. how do you feel about aisin parts for toyota ?
Actually got an MSD coil for my chevy truck. Pretty damn name brand. Failed the next day. Comp cams brake vacuum pump for my car. Probably failed before it left the manufacturing facility. Have seen parts or equipment failures in residential construction too. Nothings made worth a 💩 anymore. Hopefully the Toyota parts from Toyota will last
I have a '99 Camry for 21 years with 336k miles. For years I have put up with a rough idle because I couldn't figure out what was causing it. I replaced the original IAC at maybe 150k because the rubber gasket around it started leaking coolant so I bought a new IAC and gasket (aftermarket)... And replaced it recently with another aftermarket IAC thinking maybe it's why I have a rough idle? Next one gave me same rough idle. So I thought ok it's not the IAC... Well I found my original one in a box of parts. I check the internal dual IAC coils. Resistance was good on both. I cleaned it really well lubed it, put new rubber gasket on it, installed it and now I have a perfect idle again after many years! Keep the original parts when ever you can!!!
You may have to do an Idle relearn on this vehicle part... Disconnect battery for 5 min or so.. Run idle up to 1500 then back again a few times.. This may solve the Dorman part problem???
Yep, just as with a new battery and the vehicle will die and folks think there is a problem...
tanks you my friend i have 3 toyotas tundra 05 06 and 10 all way i use oem parts,
Dorman product are very sketchy.
I took a chance on a vacuum modulator (not Dorman) for my 2.7L Tacoma with a cheap aftermarket unit. It was easy to trouble shoot and easy to replace so took that chance. So far so good after a few years.
I have used Dorman body parts before and they didn't last.
Could it be that you need to introduce the part to the ECU.
I replaced an evap purge valve from Doorman about 5 months ago in my 1999 Toyota Rav4,
and now it was already failed.
I always try not to get counterfeit Yota parts.
Yota 4 lyfe
😅😅😅
Dorman is garbage. I had the same IAC valve problem in my Sienna. Took it off and drowned it in throttle body cleaner several times. Fixed the problem.
I'm am currently having the same problem with my 05 Scion xB. Last summer replaced with a denso part got about less than a year out of it and had to replace it again now only a few months later and it's doing the same thing p0505 code. Car runs fine just a slightly higher idle 700-900 rpm range. Tired of dealing with a warranty to replace a part that is going to ending up failing.
I'd like to buy a Toyota part, but I was just told 18 weeks for a wheel bearing. I may have to buy an aftermarket part to see me through until it comes in.
I have a 2006 RAV4 Sport with the 2.4L engine. About 3 years ago I had the front pads and rotors replaced with non-Toyota parts. That was a mistake, the pads are noisy, and the rotors are warped. Does Toyota have a kit that includes all the necessary parts to restore the front bakes back to stock? If not, where can I get a list of the necessary parts? Much thanks.
Sometimes you can get original used parts on eBay and it will work. Not a way for a business to work looking for scavenger parts.
MEH, One defective part doesn't mean the entire brand is bad. And it's almost impossible to tell a genuine Toyota part from a fake. I recently bought a "genuine" Toyota MAF sensor and while the box said made in Japan, the Toyota/Denso part (22204-22010) matched the OEM but without the made in Japan claim. Actually the new sensor had a large "C" font on it, so maybe it meant copy, but it worked. A genuine Denso oxygen sensor (#234-4624) had the part # on the box and on the sealed bag but had #42240 and 12F10 on the part itself, which I found odd. Anyway, it appears the only thing the 2000 Echo doesn't like are the cheap aftermarket fuel injectors because it says: system too rich bank 1, and the idle is high. I don't see any vacuum leaks so I'll clean the IAP next. I just finished correcting a bunch of EVAP codes (P0440, P0441, P0446) by changing the two lines that run from the engine back to the charcoal canister since they were totally clogged. Bought a new Dorman canister as well.
I should add that this Echo has been sitting in the yard for 17 years since it went off a dock, crashed through a thin sheet of ice and landed on all 4 wheels in about a foot of water. I guess with 4 young teens, it wasn’t nose heavy. I took the interior out to dry and deep clean, changed the ECU, and changed all the fluids but the trans had a clog so I finally got around to replacing it. Then I had to clean out the fuel tank, replace the fuel pump, replace the frozen alternator, the noisy air compressor, the frozen cooling fan(s), and the frozen blower motor. Apparently everything rusted internally. I mean I took everything apart, cleaned and lubed everything but ultimately everything needed replacement. I’m amazed how smooth and quiet that engine is.
Am a mercanic and have been using aftermarket parts for over 30years and never had a problem . Main dealer parts are a total rip off expecially nissan and Toyota
Glad we got rid of Air Care in BC no more exhaust smog for cars !!
Not all aftermarket are ill-fitted, inop crap out of the box - I have had very good luck with Valeo and Japanese made Exedy clutch components... Now electronic components; Yeah a lot of junk out there, esp reman starters/alternators/actuators, etc... I have had OK luck with Dorman overall, but it could be better. I have also gotten genuine Toyota junk too - Camry W. pump leaked from the weep hole at not even 40k miles... Course they always had problems with OEM pumps (2AZ-FE).
do you like that craftsman scanner? I need to buy one but I want a decent one
I agree 100% Nothing but trouble but toyota
Had a similar issue with as belt tensioner.
The pricing on OEM parts are outrageous - because they can bilk you.
Peter, do you have a WorldPac account? Better than getting parts from O'Reilly's and dealer alternative.
I would have taken the original valve fully apart to clean it before trying a replacement knowing how after market parts can fail.
The lesson to learn here is if the original Toyota part can be serviced, fixed, it is far better to spend the time to do that rather than use aftermarket junk like Dorman, where most of the time you'll do the job twice and be out of pocket.
WOW very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
You did a video of a tundra that you put doorman air injection pumps under intake manifold I wonder if it will come back
I wonder the same about the dorman aftermarket battery that one viewer brought
Is there a book or some type of recommendation for what the correct values that I should be looking for while reading live data on my Toyotas?
You have me worried thinking that ]the screws that need to be removed in order to clean the IAC were not removable because I've done this job on 4 different Toyota camrys without any problem as a preventive maintenance job 400 dollars is too much money if I can clean it myself.
My 05 Scion xA has 271,000 on it. And it hates the AC or defrost on when at a stop. It will idle real low almost as if it wants to stall but never does. I think the IAC is the culprit or maybe something else idk.
A Dorman designed part manufactured in China. What could go wrong? 🙄🙄🙄
When it comes to headlights housings, aftermarket is fine if you get the certified versions which cost a little more. More precise fitment.
Buy aftermarket junk and have it crumble in a few years. Bad advice
Not all aftermarket is bad but Dorman is just meh, sometimes if you're lucky, its just rebadged OE parts and sometimes they are the OE manufacturer. But in this case, it appears that there's 2 IAC part # listed for the Matrix, one for rear disc brakes and one for drum when you look at Standard Motor Products and WVE but Dorman only list that one part. That Doman IAC is also listed for the Corolla and that one also have different parts if it's JPP or US made, so maybe it's the wrong part? Seems like the Dorman part is for JPP/drum brakes, where is this Matrix built/trim?
Thank U Peter 😎
Better off with a used OEM part if new ones are not available
I have always used OEM parts on Toyota vehicles.
Maybe don’t go with Dorman but another manufacturer. Not all are the same. And a lot of “Toyota parts are actually manufactured by other companies and just have Toyota on them
I wonder if you did a short video showing him got to check the proper oil level since a cold engine can have the dipstick read half to ¾ a quart low since liquid can expand. According to Ahmed, master Toyo tech. Check after engine is fully warmed up. And engine has been turned off for one minute to settle down from the top end. According to him and engine is fully warmed up after 7½ miles of driving or 15 minutes. Personally I think when the coolant reaches 165-180°F or when the temp gauge reaches operating temp just over half mark it usually goes to is fully warmed up, but I'm not going to argue with a master tech's theory that he wants. Underfilled by that much is better (although not ideal) than overfilling by that much, having the crank foam the oil splash and now you have air in the oil and that's less lubrication, and potential to throw a rod if a piston seizes.
People can search engine drive cycles for their particular Toy model because some have very particular conditions to set monitors like Evap and similar. Some states do not require smog/emissions testing, however of the states that do, some allow one or two monitors to be incomplete and allow pass for registration/transfer (sale). Some strict states require emissions compliant parts or no modification to the exhaust and some will allow more or less monitors to be tested if the car falls in a certain year. California requires an additional test (EVAP) for certain years like that Camry that pulled in for the oil level check.
15-20 / 5, half marks if not.
Uh when you pour it out the bottle, the oil is at room temperature, why would you measure it when it's hot?
Who the hell gave you that advice???? Hydraulic fluid like ATF expands, but engine oil isn’t the same. Can there be some expansion… yes but barely. Engines should always be checked cold and after sitting on a level surface. Read any OEM manual and tell me I’m wrong! A transmission is a totally different story
@@nordicpride9708 as I said above the master Toyota tech working at a current dealership and his name is Ahmed. How many years have you worked at Toyota or are you just a senior citizen with opinions from hell.
@@daijoubu4529 measure it hot. No owners manual says measures MOTOR OIL cold. By then you overfilled a cold snack engine and the moving parts whipping air into the oil will cause lack of oil to surface contact destroying your engine.
have you tried or reviewed BG EPR and MOA?
Can you try cleaning it with ultrasonic cleaner
Hello Peter, how can I find out about purchasing that car. I'm looking for a vehicle such as that.
I believe she is selling it to her granddaughter. Do you live in the northern California area?
How old is that Toyota? Why is it not available? Not that old.
Maybe the computer needs to run 100 miles to relearn the new part? Not much circuitry on that idle regulator, no? What kind of sensor is supposed to be integrated on that idle regulator? Okay, nevermind, I see that it continued to code because it never sealed. Patience is a virtue.