+Michael Smith I had no clearance problems. I'd give the plastigage a shot as it helped to confirm I had the correct parts and the machine work was sound. If you give me some more details about what you've had done I can try to help.
I dont understand the rear main seal having to be not seated and sticking up on one side? Will the main force it to be seated properly? I never saw that done before with making it stick up on one side?
The seal is actually seated but you want to offset the seam so that it's not beside where the cap meets the block. The two price seal does come together once installed, but the meeting points are just offset/staggered from the cap. The instructions for the seal tell you to do it this way and have a fancy digram so you can't mess it up.
I ran it with the Holley 600CFM 4776 DP with Mechanical Secondaries. I only went that big because of the turbo. If you're not turboing I'd stick with a 2 barrel. I'd Probsbly consider a larger 2 barrel mechanical carb even if I was to start over.
There was some talk among the Pontiac ohc6 people there was a possibility to used Chevy small journal 327 rods on a rebuild on a 250. I like they way you upgraded on the pistons for the turbo, but not on the stock rods for a turbo.
Thanks for checking out my videos. I belive you can use 327 rods, but I spent some time researching the integrity of the stock parts and as most people know, they didn't skimp much on quality with these motors. Thank being said, I had the whole bottom end balanced and used ARP rod bolts for increased durability. The stock rods are forged and I'm told by several sources they should withstand well over 500+ HP. I read somewhere someone used the stock rods on an 800 HP build with no issues (for how long who knows). The stock crank is solid and yeah, the weak point was the pistons. Expensive, but forged pistons were a must here.
Neglecting the oil pickup tube and mesh filter is a mistake. Any debris from the engine is sucked into the mesh and up to the tube to the oil pump. Significant carbon, steel, aluminum ,etc., can get lodged in the mesh and tube and can refult in damage to the new engine. I learned the hard way!
Ronnie Robertson Great point! I ended up cleaning the mesh and inspecting mine but had no issues with it prior to disassembly so reused it. It'd onenofnthose parts that's cheap enough to replace and probably should during a rebuild just for the peace of mind.
Some on eBay, Summit Auto in the US, speedway motors, 12bolt.com, CompCams and most engine machine shops will have the rebuild parts. Take a look at the Turbo Camaro website, I go into a lot more detail on there about sources and specific parts.
@@TurboCamaro67 the bolt has a bridge (washer) that secures both manifolds. I guess grinding the lip of the manifold is the solution. Have not seen replacement bridges available though.
When using Plastiguage you are supposed to use regular motor oil, since that’s what you will be using when it’s actually running. Your measurements could have been affected.
I've never heard that you're better off to use regular oil, but I should have wiped off the spot where I put the plastigage, and the mating surface so that it didn't mess with how it looked after it was compressed. Good catch either way.
BKG Fab Our Camaro is a daily driver that currently tops at 8#'s boost. The stock rods are forged, and with decent ARP bolts will hold to 600-800HP. Pistons are questionable but we went with Ross Racing Forged dished pistons. The dish size will vary based on your desired compression ratio. We went with 12cc and ended up with about 8.75:1 compression.
Food for thought....I have turbocharged several motorcycles to 12 psi of boost with stock cast pistons, also the majority of the modern OEM turbocharged GM cars run cast pistons. The ring gap and piston to wall clearance is what's the most important with a turbocharged engine, this should be discussed with your machinist so they can hone the block accordingly. I have seen both forged and cast pistons melt from running lean (but that's a tuning issue not a mechanical issue). Generally when the ring gap is too thin and when the gap closes due to lack of ring gap, you will break the ring lands on the piston.... My credentials: GM factory trained technician. ASE Master Technician. ASE Advanced Engine Specialist
GOOD JOB , I LIKE THE COLORS. I HAVE A 292 I'M THINKING ABOUT BUILDING.I GOT IT FOR $50 BUCKS WITH NO HISTORY WITH IT. BUT I HAVE A 250 AND A 230 AS BACK UPS.
That's really hard to say, the custom turbo piping and all the painting and whatnot took hours and hours, but over a period of days/weeks. It was a side project that want really rushed. I had to take the parts off the island j lived on to be machined and then back to pick them up. Plus I had a full time job. I'd say I spent a month or two for sure, even with full prep and gathering parts ahead of time.
Michael Smith looks like part of your question was cut off. Since the cam and crank run on gears, you can adjust cam advance without removing everything, but most builds won't incorporate this. Hopefully I predicted your question right.
What year is that exhaust manifold from? The first engine I ever built was a late 60's chevy 6 like yours, but the exhaust outlet on the stock manifold was more toward the middle, directly underneath the carb. Are you using this manifold to simplify the exhaust plumbing to the turbo?
+Steven Bauer not sure what year, it's from a Massey Ferguson farm tractor, but it's the same manifold you'd find on the larger 292 Inlines in the late 60's. It has a 2.5" outlet instead of the 250's 2" outlet. The half inch makes a big difference. Having a more expensive custom manifold (SPA Turbo) would simplify the plumbing, I used this manifold to keep the budget down and use as many "stock" parts as possible.
Hey, the cam card sheet can be seen on our website @ Turbocamaro.ca on the 'Build Sheet' under 'Camshaft'. If you give the grind # to CompCams they can get you the same one. Of course you could request the same specs from a different brand as well. Please let us know if you need more details.
Just wondering what is the height and length of your beautiful 250 engine block after fully assembled? I am contemplating replacing my Ford 200 inline 6 with a 250 Chevy inline 6 for performance purposes.
+Evan Molnar Hey Evan, I'd only be able to give you the height of my current setup or from oil pan to valve cover. Any carb with air cleaner or plenum is going to stick up at least a couple inches above the valve cover.
+Evan Molnar Hey Evan, unfortunately I'm not at my car right now but I should be able to grab some measurements for you after work. I'll take from oil pan to mounts and mounts up. I'll grab top of valve cover and also top of the plenum, keeping in mind a stock carb with air cleaner may be slightly taller/shorter. Stay tuned...
+Evan Molnar I had a couple minutes so I did the measurements. Lowest part of oil pan top of valve cover is 23½". Top of valve cover to top of throttle body (same size as 4 barrel carb) is exactly 4". Bottom of oil pan to mounts is approximately 7½". Interestingly, the block without accessories is 27" long, with water pump and mechanical fan it's 34" long. That being said the fan has a 2½" spacer on it so the overall length could be reduced. Let me know if you need anything else.
Thats really interesting, I hope I can extend my radiator a few inches but other than that I really think from what you say the engine is almost the same size as mine. Hey thank you so much for giving me a moment of your time and measuring your engine, do you happen to know the weight of your engine by chance? I was looking on forums and a lot of them say they weigh 440lbs compared to a ford 302 which is 460lbs. Is that the case for your engine? Or is it even heavier because of the turbo and other accessories. I'm hoping I don't have to mess with the suspension.
Fel-Pro makes a kit for the 67-7X non-integral head engine that includes all engine rebuild gaskets including the real main seal (RMS). Installing the RMS on this engine is specific and the kit came with a seperate slip of paper to describe the process.
@@TurboCamaro67 The kit I bought for 61 235 came with old rope seal. Removed a wiper seal from engine though. If it leaks.. I will go back to the wiper seal.
+Rubinho ferretos preparações A árvore de cames tem a engrenagem pressionado sobre ele. A covinha nas linhas que alinhe acima com a covinha na engrenagem de manivela. Se você quiser adicionar um pouco de tempo mecânica que você tem que colocar a covinha engrenagem cam à frente da covinha engrenagem manivelas. Eu recomendo usar uma roda de grau apropriado para fazer isso como você não gostaria de adivinhar. Se você estiver indo para o trabalho assim como você pode confirmar a sua elevador cam enquanto você está nisso.
Hi I need your help! I got GM engine #8994258 I got it form Auction I do not know what it is for I think 292? and I have 1987 GMC sierra C10 v6 with no engine I want to put the 292 in my GMC do you think will work for it?
Easy tell on a 292 is the height of the lifter covers. The 292 covers are quite a bit taller than the 250 and under. I'm not great with engine codes but I'm not certain that's the actual engine ID stamp.
I had the machine shop do it. I did read that you can freeze the cam and heat the gear but with how long our cam is I couldn't be bothered. I'm not even sure the machine shop charged me for it.
+Michael Smith Engine runs great but I'm currently waiting for a new starter. It's a fun car to drive with a surprising amount of power. Good to hear more inlines are being built!
That's all their is/was for these engines. Felpro and the usual suspects don't (or at least didn't) offer anything but their premium cork gaskets. I actually made my own nitrile valve cover gasket on another video as I was tired of replacing the cork one every other time I pulled the cover.
+Turbo Camaro no problem! I re gathered my interest for these engines and went and paid his site a visit an noticed those. Can the stock rods really hold 500hp?
+ProperMods the stock rods are forged, and with the upgraded arp bolts 500hp will be no problem. The stock crank is probably the weakest link in my setup. However I've heard of enthusiasts getting 600-800hp out of the stock crank so who knows. Inline 6's are the budget tanks of the era.
I see that you have put ass’y lube on the main journals before you used the plasti_guage that will give you a false reading as the crank actually sits on that film of oil which could mean that the readings out by .0005-.001 thousanth’s. It is all was recommended that Plasti-Guage be used on a dry journal
That's a good catch. If you had asked me how, I would have said it should be dry. It obviously will compress and "squish" out but still be thousandths of an inch different which kinda defeats the purpose of the guage. Thanks!
@@TurboCamaro67 no problems my friend I hope that you have learnt something I’m a retired mechanic with 55 years of experience and I admire you young guys that are willing to have a go if I can be of more assistance just ask
@@rodneyturner5091 Yeah a 292 would have been a better choice, but this is the #'s matching block for the car so I'd rather keep it original than have to store this block in my crawlspace ;)
@@rodneyturner5091 the 250 will make a good driver. It won't be "fast", but it can be fun to build up. You can use Chevy 307 V8 pistons in the 250 to bring compression up to around 9.0 or 9.5:1. Headders and 4bbl intake with a cam and itll pull harder than a stock 350
Know this is late but I appreciate the video man! It's hard to find inline 6 videos on here
ruclips.net/video/WfyofaN0j3g/видео.html
I am building a 64 Nova 194 I6 Turbo. Your videos are the best!
I wouldn't be bored, I'm actually quite curious to see how others do it. Great vid, cheers mate!
Are you having any crank barrings clearance problems I am
+Michael Smith I had no clearance problems. I'd give the plastigage a shot as it helped to confirm I had the correct parts and the machine work was sound. If you give me some more details about what you've had done I can try to help.
I dont understand the rear main seal having to be not seated and sticking up on one side? Will the main force it to be seated properly? I never saw that done before with making it stick up on one side?
The seal is actually seated but you want to offset the seam so that it's not beside where the cap meets the block. The two price seal does come together once installed, but the meeting points are just offset/staggered from the cap. The instructions for the seal tell you to do it this way and have a fancy digram so you can't mess it up.
What Carb did you run with your Offy Intake? Do you have recommendations for a Sunday Driver Inline 6?
I ran it with the Holley 600CFM 4776 DP with Mechanical Secondaries. I only went that big because of the turbo. If you're not turboing I'd stick with a 2 barrel. I'd Probsbly consider a larger 2 barrel mechanical carb even if I was to start over.
There was some talk among the Pontiac ohc6 people there was a possibility to used Chevy small journal 327 rods on a rebuild on a 250. I like they way you upgraded on the pistons for the turbo, but not on the stock rods for a turbo.
Thanks for checking out my videos. I belive you can use 327 rods, but I spent some time researching the integrity of the stock parts and as most people know, they didn't skimp much on quality with these motors. Thank being said, I had the whole bottom end balanced and used ARP rod bolts for increased durability. The stock rods are forged and I'm told by several sources they should withstand well over 500+ HP. I read somewhere someone used the stock rods on an 800 HP build with no issues (for how long who knows). The stock crank is solid and yeah, the weak point was the pistons. Expensive, but forged pistons were a must here.
Neglecting the oil pickup tube and mesh filter is a mistake. Any debris from the engine is sucked into the mesh and up to the tube to the oil pump. Significant carbon, steel, aluminum ,etc., can get lodged in the mesh and tube and can refult in damage to the new engine. I learned the hard way!
Ronnie Robertson Great point! I ended up cleaning the mesh and inspecting mine but had no issues with it prior to disassembly so reused it. It'd onenofnthose parts that's cheap enough to replace and probably should during a rebuild just for the peace of mind.
Great Video! What the part number for this new 2 piece rear main seal? Thanks
Man that looks nice!
Also, where did you get your parts? I’m having a hell of a time trying to find anything for the chev 250
Some on eBay, Summit Auto in the US, speedway motors, 12bolt.com, CompCams and most engine machine shops will have the rebuild parts. Take a look at the Turbo Camaro website, I go into a lot more detail on there about sources and specific parts.
Do you have a video that details the manifold bridges install? I have seen the manifold flatness one, doesn't detail this.
I'm not actually sure what you mean "bridges". We talking about the heat riser area where the manifolds sandwich together a gasket?
@@TurboCamaro67 the bolt has a bridge (washer) that secures both manifolds.
I guess grinding the lip of the manifold is the solution.
Have not seen replacement bridges available though.
When using Plastiguage you are supposed to use regular motor oil, since that’s what you will be using when it’s actually running. Your measurements could have been affected.
I've never heard that you're better off to use regular oil, but I should have wiped off the spot where I put the plastigage, and the mating surface so that it didn't mess with how it looked after it was compressed. Good catch either way.
What kind of pistons and rods should i use for a low boost street 6 cylinder? Right now i just have stock rods with sealed power cast pistons
BKG Fab Our Camaro is a daily driver that currently tops at 8#'s boost. The stock rods are forged, and with decent ARP bolts will hold to 600-800HP. Pistons are questionable but we went with Ross Racing Forged dished pistons. The dish size will vary based on your desired compression ratio. We went with 12cc and ended up with about 8.75:1 compression.
Food for thought....I have turbocharged several motorcycles to 12 psi of boost with stock cast pistons, also the majority of the modern OEM turbocharged GM cars run cast pistons. The ring gap and piston to wall clearance is what's the most important with a turbocharged engine, this should be discussed with your machinist so they can hone the block accordingly. I have seen both forged and cast pistons melt from running lean (but that's a tuning issue not a mechanical issue). Generally when the ring gap is too thin and when the gap closes due to lack of ring gap, you will break the ring lands on the piston....
My credentials: GM factory trained technician. ASE Master Technician. ASE Advanced Engine Specialist
GOOD JOB , I LIKE THE COLORS. I HAVE A 292 I'M THINKING ABOUT BUILDING.I GOT IT FOR $50 BUCKS WITH NO HISTORY WITH IT. BUT I HAVE A 250 AND A 230 AS BACK UPS.
That's great, they're a robust motor with lots of potential. A little pricey for real power but great fun!
How many hours would you say it took to do the disassembly and the build?
That's really hard to say, the custom turbo piping and all the painting and whatnot took hours and hours, but over a period of days/weeks. It was a side project that want really rushed. I had to take the parts off the island j lived on to be machined and then back to pick them up. Plus I had a full time job. I'd say I spent a month or two for sure, even with full prep and gathering parts ahead of time.
I have a question I didn't send my block to to have it
Don't do I need to pull the cam out in order for crank to set right
Michael Smith looks like part of your question was cut off. Since the cam and crank run on gears, you can adjust cam advance without removing everything, but most builds won't incorporate this. Hopefully I predicted your question right.
What year is that exhaust manifold from? The first engine I ever built was a late 60's chevy 6 like yours, but the exhaust outlet on the stock manifold was more toward the middle, directly underneath the carb. Are you using this manifold to simplify the exhaust plumbing to the turbo?
+Steven Bauer not sure what year, it's from a Massey Ferguson farm tractor, but it's the same manifold you'd find on the larger 292 Inlines in the late 60's. It has a 2.5" outlet instead of the 250's 2" outlet. The half inch makes a big difference. Having a more expensive custom manifold (SPA Turbo) would simplify the plumbing, I used this manifold to keep the budget down and use as many "stock" parts as possible.
send me your cam specs. currently doing a 250 chevy turbo set up too with my 63 nova. I just want a decent cam that will make good power.
Hey, the cam card sheet can be seen on our website @ Turbocamaro.ca on the 'Build Sheet' under 'Camshaft'. If you give the grind # to CompCams they can get you the same one. Of course you could request the same specs from a different brand as well. Please let us know if you need more details.
Just wondering what is the height and length of your beautiful 250 engine block after fully assembled? I am contemplating replacing my Ford 200 inline 6 with a 250 Chevy inline 6 for performance purposes.
+Evan Molnar Hey Evan, I'd only be able to give you the height of my current setup or from oil pan to valve cover. Any carb with air cleaner or plenum is going to stick up at least a couple inches above the valve cover.
+Evan Molnar Hey Evan, unfortunately I'm not at my car right now but I should be able to grab some measurements for you after work. I'll take from oil pan to mounts and mounts up. I'll grab top of valve cover and also top of the plenum, keeping in mind a stock carb with air cleaner may be slightly taller/shorter. Stay tuned...
Turbo Camaro splendid, i look forward to hearing from you.
+Evan Molnar I had a couple minutes so I did the measurements. Lowest part of oil pan top of valve cover is 23½". Top of valve cover to top of throttle body (same size as 4 barrel carb) is exactly 4". Bottom of oil pan to mounts is approximately 7½". Interestingly, the block without accessories is 27" long, with water pump and mechanical fan it's 34" long. That being said the fan has a 2½" spacer on it so the overall length could be reduced. Let me know if you need anything else.
Thats really interesting, I hope I can extend my radiator a few inches but other than that I really think from what you say the engine is almost the same size as mine. Hey thank you so much for giving me a moment of your time and measuring your engine, do you happen to know the weight of your engine by chance? I was looking on forums and a lot of them say they weigh 440lbs compared to a ford 302 which is 460lbs. Is that the case for your engine? Or is it even heavier because of the turbo and other accessories. I'm hoping I don't have to mess with the suspension.
Every block I have found near me.. has been older design. :(
Did you order the rear seal seperate or which kit did it come in?
Fel-Pro makes a kit for the 67-7X non-integral head engine that includes all engine rebuild gaskets including the real main seal (RMS). Installing the RMS on this engine is specific and the kit came with a seperate slip of paper to describe the process.
@@TurboCamaro67
The kit I bought for 61 235 came with old rope seal. Removed a wiper seal from engine though.
If it leaks.. I will go back to the wiper seal.
@@TurboCamaro67 new video soon?
,amigo como vc faz pra enquadra o comando de válvulas? utiliza chaveta especial? como vc faz para adiantar ou atrazar 2/4 graus?
+Rubinho ferretos preparações A árvore de cames tem a engrenagem pressionado sobre ele. A covinha nas linhas que alinhe acima com a covinha na engrenagem de manivela. Se você quiser adicionar um pouco de tempo mecânica que você tem que colocar a covinha engrenagem cam à frente da covinha engrenagem manivelas. Eu recomendo usar uma roda de grau apropriado para fazer isso como você não gostaria de adivinhar. Se você estiver indo para o trabalho assim como você pode confirmar a sua elevador cam enquanto você está nisso.
Does it bother anyone else that he says zero zero three for three-thousandths?
+John Power I wondered when someone would catch that. It unfortunately shows my lack of experience with communicating decimals. Good ear!
Hi
I need your help!
I got GM engine #8994258 I got it form Auction I do not know what it is for I think 292?
and I have 1987 GMC sierra C10 v6 with no engine I want to put the 292 in my GMC do you think will work for it?
Easy tell on a 292 is the height of the lifter covers. The 292 covers are quite a bit taller than the 250 and under. I'm not great with engine codes but I'm not certain that's the actual engine ID stamp.
@@TurboCamaro67
this is the engine
lubbock.craigslist.org/pts/d/ralls-1964-hotrod-292-engine-for-c10-gmc/6971682854.html
Did you put the timing gear on the cam yourself or did the machine shop do that for you?
I had the machine shop do it. I did read that you can freeze the cam and heat the gear but with how long our cam is I couldn't be bothered. I'm not even sure the machine shop charged me for it.
Is your inline six rebuild still running good I'm building a Chevy 292 for the first time my self your video inspired me
+Michael Smith Engine runs great but I'm currently waiting for a new starter. It's a fun car to drive with a surprising amount of power. Good to hear more inlines are being built!
what compression piston your running
+MAKEPARTScom Compression ratio should be around 9.5:1.
Thanks!
Why the cork gaskets,?
That's all their is/was for these engines. Felpro and the usual suspects don't (or at least didn't) offer anything but their premium cork gaskets. I actually made my own nitrile valve cover gasket on another video as I was tired of replacing the cork one every other time I pulled the cover.
That's all we've got to choose from on these 6s. Its not like a smallblock that can be put together with absolutely no cork
12bolt.com sells a timing cover that is a two piece unit that eliminates the issue with the oil pan
+ProperMods Wow I haven't seen that yet. I'll go check it out right now. No leaks from mine at least. Thanks!
+Turbo Camaro no problem! I re gathered my interest for these engines and went and paid his site a visit an noticed those. Can the stock rods really hold 500hp?
+ProperMods the stock rods are forged, and with the upgraded arp bolts 500hp will be no problem. The stock crank is probably the weakest link in my setup. However I've heard of enthusiasts getting 600-800hp out of the stock crank so who knows. Inline 6's are the budget tanks of the era.
I see that you have put ass’y lube on the main journals before you used the plasti_guage that will give you a false reading as the crank actually sits on that film of oil which could mean that the readings out by .0005-.001 thousanth’s. It is all was recommended that Plasti-Guage be used on a dry journal
That's a good catch. If you had asked me how, I would have said it should be dry. It obviously will compress and "squish" out but still be thousandths of an inch different which kinda defeats the purpose of the guage. Thanks!
@@TurboCamaro67 no problems my friend I hope that you have learnt something I’m a retired mechanic with 55 years of experience and I admire you young guys that are willing to have a go if I can be of more assistance just ask
70 over jeeess
Why a 250
Why not? Rather see another 350 build series?
@@TurboCamaro67 I figured you would went 292 is a 250 better thanks
@@rodneyturner5091 Yeah a 292 would have been a better choice, but this is the #'s matching block for the car so I'd rather keep it original than have to store this block in my crawlspace ;)
@@TurboCamaro67 is a chevy 250 good for chevy truck 4x4 stock truck manual transmission I'm new to inline 6 chevy 250 thanks
@@rodneyturner5091 the 250 will make a good driver. It won't be "fast", but it can be fun to build up. You can use Chevy 307 V8 pistons in the 250 to bring compression up to around 9.0 or 9.5:1. Headders and 4bbl intake with a cam and itll pull harder than a stock 350
Ugh