Bought my D-28, new in 1970 (serial # 264XXX). Earned my way through college giving lessons. In ‘74 top bulged. Probably left it in a hot car once too many. Sent it back to Martin and completely re-did the guitar as an HD-28. Replaced the top, changed to a small bridge plate, scalloped bracing, herring bone binding. Sent it back to me and stamped “Custom” above the serial #. No charge to me. Guitar remains in excellent condition, Always wondered if it would be of any significant greater value.
@Ralph Buoncristiani If I'm not mistaken 74 or 75 was the first year Martin reissued the herringbone D-28. Most of the first ones would be identical to a standard D-28 with exception of having herringbone binding. It would also be the first time they would be referred to as an HD-28 on the neck block. Some of these HD's would also feature scalloped bracing, although it's unknown as to why all of these first reissues were not factory scalloped. Perhaps it was thought of after production had already gotten well under way. Later, it would become known as a staple of the HD's features. The reissuing of the HD's could be exactly why your guitar got an HD makeover. I used to know a man up in Wisconsin why had a 74 HD with a custom stamp in it. It was a beast of a guitar & I had a chance to buy it, but I was only 19 at the time & didn't know much about them. Seeing as how your guitar's makeover was done by Martin, it should be worth the same as an HD-28 from that era & in the same condition.
@@torontolarrivee7965 As best I can remember there was no charge. If there was, it was nominal. I was a poor student and wouldn't have afforded much investment into it back then. They had just (mid '70s) re-introduced the HD-28 into their product line so in essence, I have a HD-28 from a model year that they weren't actually made (1970).
I have a D-28 that is just a few numbers off this one. I purchased it new in 1972. (Serial number shows it was built in 71.) The bridge was in the wrong place and I played the guitar out of tune for many years. Finally sent the guitar to Bryan Kimsey. He put a new bridge in the proper location, took out the huge rosewood bridge plate and replace it with a smaller one, shaved the X braces a bit. Neck reset. My D-28 is now one of the finest sounding Martins I've ever played. Bryan took just enough off the X bracing to give it a much better sound.
I will speak for myself, but would imagine that I have similar sentiments to others that come to see your content. Thank you for a great channel. Thank you for your expertise and sharing your knowledge. It shows. Thank you for not lauding your education over everyone like a club. Thank you for not trying to be anything other than exactly what you are. I wish I knew you personally.
I've reset 18 necks from late 1800s-early 1900s, and a couple mandos. Only one guitar and one mando I actually had to pull the neck. I've never seen anyone else do this: I heat a moist dish towel under the neck that's strapped to the table, this puts moisture into the neck - specifically under the bent area; I pull the neck down to a backbow with clamps until I measure the right backbow (takes a day or two). Once released, I let it dry out, then simply oil the neck and re-string it. Voila - neck has proper backbow with nothing on the guitar pulled off/cut/re-glued etc. Keeps it all original. Of course many things to be careful of (especially glued joints and messing up neck finish). It's worked for me and I've made horrible guitars and mandos actually playable again! I wonder why luthiers go right to re-sets and don't simply bend the neck back to straight...
I have a '70 D-28 that is very similar to this one except I have the original blue case, too. It was purchased for club gigs by the original owner so it has a similar set of war wounds from being rode hard and put away wet in the early days. It has always sounded great, and plays especially well since Pat DiBurro gave it the full overhaul a few years ago - neck reset, crack repairs, new pick guard, bridge relocation, etc. He also replaced the whatever-they-were-made-of nut and saddle with bone. Like you, he recommended leaving the frets original and just crowned and polished them. Thanks for this review. Your valuation seems to match the market in the northeast US.
In October 2021 I played a 1972 D-28 at Emerald City Guitars in Seattle. It had just had a neck reset and was for sale at $2,750. I didn't give it a microscopic look like Jeremy did but it seemed cleaner than the one in the video. According to this video, looks like it was fairly priced. Maybe I should have bought it.
When I had my '71 built, I asked my luthier to give me a matt finish, not being a fan of gloss, and to lower the action and consider me a picker rather than a strummer. Also by Xmas, a crack showed up. So I sent it back to Martin and he said, "It relieved itself and sounds more open." He fixed the crack and when I got it back... it sounded beautiful!! My friends thought so too!
Hi there, Jeremy! I haven't read all the comments, so, I'm not sure if anyone else addressed your comment of the Rosewood Bridgeplates on early 70's Martins. First off, they aren't "Little pieces of Brazilian Rosewood" that make up the revamped Bridgeplate. Compared to the 1-1/4" wide (Small) Maple Bridgeplate, the Rosewood Bridgeplates are nearly 3 times as wide, or over 3 inches wide; and clearly, enough hardwood glued to Sitka Spruce to really dampen the top's natural vibrations at the most crucial spot under the Bridge. Certainly, not "Little" by any means, especially compared to the older Smaller Maple plates. Plus, Martin made that change from Maple to Rosewood circa 1966-67, when they were still using Brazilian for the back and sides. Then, they may have used Brazilian for the larger 3" Bridgeplate? But, by 1971 (I know, I have a 1971 D-28) the Bridgeplate was more than 3 inches of East Indian Rosewood, hardly Brazilian by 1971 when they had phased out Brazilian on the whole guitar by 1969-70. There were some instances between 69 and 71 when any left over pieces of Brazilian were being used for the middle of the 3 sided backs of some D-35's. It was extremely random and rare. That's about it on Bridgeplates. But, I do agree with you that Brazilian is NOT worth 3 times what East Indian Rosewood is worth. Your simply buying nostalgia.
That's a nice find!!!!!!! I'd call Martin & find out what the "custom" stamp was for. It usually means it was a special order or sent back to the factory for repairs. It would be worth finding out.
Good review and appraisal. I recently sold/lost a 1971 D-28 in a transaction involving Reverb and UPS. This guitar sold on Reverb for $3K to a buyer in England. I received his funds and sent the guitar. Unknown to me was that Indian rosewood had joined Brazilian rosewood with custom restrictions. I was warned by Reverb that this might happen. However UPS assured me multiple times that no additional paperwork was required. I chose to let the shipment proceed over seas. The guitar was impounded, I returned the money, I lost the guitar.
My 2018 HD28 has less than an 1/8” on the saddle. I would be happy. With an 1/8. Its the second new Martin I have owned with zero room for adjustment on the saddle. I called Martin and they were not interested, they said take it back to the dealer. I live in the uk and the dealer is us so I decided to sell in the end. The question is, how low does the saddle have to be before Martin will do a warranty neck reset
My brother and I bought two Martin D35s back in 1976. They are great guitars. My brother still had his when he passed away five years ago. Someone robbed my house and took my D35 in the mid 80s. That's life. Martin guitars had that yellowish tent on the front of them. Now they have an all white look on them. I like the yellowish tent much better. Awesome video thanks for sharing. Stay well and safe my friend. Btw, If Jay is a blue grass person why is he selling this guitar?
@@JeremySheppard Yes my brothers son got all his musical instruments. He had two D35's and one D45 and a nice Gibson. I don't know the model number of the Gibson. I'm sure they will be kept in his family for many years to come. I bought a new D35 in 2001. Most likely I will never buy another guitar. Unless I run up on the right deal. I have bought and sold a few over the years. Your video was awesome. I would like to see more similar to this video. Stay well & safe out there.
Great review and love the tone response from the aforementioned 72' D-28. In my opinion, I think 70's Martins are great, regardless of Martin's spec change. However, like any vintage guitars they are a hit or miss. I managed to find a Great sounding D 12 28 from 1976 and it is by far the BEST sounding 12 string I have ever played (amongst the others). Cheers
Loved the video, man! I look forward to every video you upload, always interesting, and you can see how passionate you are. Definitely inspires me, and I'm sure lots of other people too. Stay safe!
I have an early 72 D-28 that I recently purchased from Elderly. It's beaten up but sounds and plays amazing. I played several models from the 40s to the 60s and wanted them to sound like the one I have. It has its quirks but the things it does well make it jump back in my hand all day long. It was $2,500 but had over $1,000 in wok done to it to get it where it plays like butter and rings like a bell all the way up the neck. I think it's my most emotive acoustic.
I bet it would sound much much better with Mediums. Sure it might be a bit rough on an older guitar to have all that tension. But the magic of Martin's really has a lot to do with the fact the guitars are designed for mediums. I used lights for years until I got my Martin (D10e 02 Sitka Spruce top). I'm used to heavier gauges but at first I just put on lights out of habit. But it was missing the magic I was used to hearing when playing other Martin's. I put medium 80/20's on it and it became everything I've ever wanted in an acoustic. They really are just as easy to bend as lights since they are a little bigger your fingers have more to push/pull against. And playing fingerstyle with mediums on a Martin sounds and feels great which I also didn't expect. Mediums on any other acoustic have always been a let down and lacked sustain so I never thought I'd like them. But the trick was using them on a guitar designed for use with the tension of mediums. Sadly in this example the high action would only get worse with the extra tension but I really feel like there's more tone in that guitar than we are hearing. But for country/bluegrass those lights might be just the ticket so for those reasons along with the age of the guitar I fully understand using lights. I could be mistaken but I'm pretty sure from listening that you restrung with lights. Great video, I really enjoyed the info about 70s Martin's. I love learning new things about the history of the company's behind the guitars you feature.
@@JeremySheppard Lol that's too funny! I completely believe they are mediums though, I just knew something was "different". I'm an 80/20 guy through and through so if I hear Phosphor bronze something sounds off. There's nothing wrong with them and it is what Martin recommends afterall(Medium PB's). I just like the extra top end of 80/20s. It helps to keep my short fingernail fingerstyle from sounding dull. Lol I knew something seemed different. I wonder when Martin started recommending PB'S? Anyways, thanks for the reply I got a good laugh out of my misinterpretation of what I thought I was hearing.
I always use 0.13's on my guitars, also on my 1970 D35, if possible even bronze, not too much a phosphor fan, makes my good guitars sounds like a Taylor :-) On my Collings D42A I love to have GHS vintage bronze especially, otherwise she sounds too loud and brutal to me and my wife - she plays a 1992 Martin M36 - does not like the harsh sound of the D42A at all, always asks me to get another guitar when I play the Collings. My CJ is much warmer and less "brutal", but I still prefer my early 70's D35 with 0.13s...
@@d35s2 That's interesting, I didn't know GHS made vintage bronze strings. I'll certainly keep that in mind if one of my guitars ever sounds like it could benefit from them. I've been a string joy convert ever since I started using their electric strings on my extended range guitars so I could customize the gauges for the same price as a normal pack of theirs. At first before trying them I thought they were over priced but after a few years of using string joys and occasionally going back to other name brand strings like Martin, Elixer etc. I always find there's absolutely no competition. But truly you should be able to feel an hear a difference from the moment you string them up and play. I really wanted to belueve it was all marketing an placebo effect, lol i was so ready to call them on their bs but i ended up loving them lol. I also found that their core wire is much more durable. I work on my guitars a lot and love to do modifications and I don't always want to buy new strings if I just put the current ones on the guitar in working on in the last few days. And with the string joy strings I can take them off and on a couple times detuning and retuning each time without a break. Conversely with Martin strings if I look at them wrong they break d ; But theres something to be said for cheap and quickly available. If you ever wanna try a new string brand for the fun of it or you want custom gauges I highly recommend trying them out. Maybe just on your wife's #1 and your #1. But you also brought up a good point, each guitar is going to be suited to a certain type and gauge of string and it's not always going to be our preference that sounds the best. Edit: "Makes my good guitars sound like a Taylor." Lol I had to laugh at that since its so relatable.
@@michaelinglis567 Thank you for your interesting comment Michael. I will see where I can find them. I am afraid I also have to agree to what you say about Martin strings breaking. Unfortunately had the same experience many times. Most of the time these last years I have used the blue package DARCO 0.13s (presumably made by CF Martin, but funny enough, these don't break on my guitars. Problem is that I heard that the acoustic DARCO strings will be or are no longer available. Therefore I looked everywhere on Ebay and other websites and bought about 40 sets of the 0.13's. I understood that the DARCO strings for electric guitars are still available. Enjoy playing and experimenting Michael and have a great weekend!
couple things I didn't hear mentioned are a) the 70's labour dispute where there was sabbotaging of the bridge position (which affects intonation) which I believe ended '71.. b) the blue thermoplastic cases twisting/warping. My '72 D-28 seems to be fine for the bridge position, but need to check again, but the thermoplastic case I stopped using (tho still have it) because it's started to deform and the clasps no longer completely line up... that said, I loved hearing your overview and I'm confident in holding onto mine (my father was the original owner and babied it so it's near mint) I've always noticed a difference in it versus newer acoustics I've had over the years..
I bought my first Martin in 1972 and it was also a D-28. It cost $495 with case. I was able to use a 60's Framus Texan as partial payment. I loved that guitar but had it less than two years when I got the opportunity to buy a 1964 Martin D-28SW. I had to trade the D-28 and throw in $350 which I paid in installments over several months. Shortly after paying for the SW I had a chance to buy, which I did, a 1965 Martin 00-21NY for $200. That 00-21 is one guitar that I wish that I had hung onto. I'm too embarrassed to say what I traded it for but let's just say that more than 30 years later I still regret getting rid of it.
The early 70s Martin’s sound as good as the 60s. There was that bridge placement issue but that was corrected. Due to this, which didn’t last long they are way under priced and undervalued. Get one while you can for a decent price. They will only go up in value. Great guitars.
I have a 72 D28 that I purchased new. It was great for about 8 years , then the action got worse to the point I started playing other guitars . As I also notice the intonation made the guitar unplayable. The pick guard curled and I took it off. The top has a crack and the bridge has lifted . I put it in the case (original samsonite) and I haven’t played it 40 years. I took it to a authorized repair and they said I just needed new strings . I called Martin about 10 years ago and they never got back to me . I’m ready to address this again after watching your video. I sure could use some coaching. Thanks Dale
That probably came out of nowhere for most. I just got finished visiting other sites, looking for similar information. I can count at least 10 sites where the lesson was not about guitars, rather the person who was "teaching" about them.
Hey man, never seen your channel before but I really love your style and all the info. I just got my hands on a 1978 Hirade master artes model seven. The front is a little beat up but overall it seems like a great instrument. Would you have any idea where I can find info for something like this? Keep up the great content!
Relief is the bow of the neck, not the saddle height. Also, a measurement of action at the 12th fret would be useful in knowing if it needs a neck reset. If the action is perfect that saddle will be fine for the near future.
Right, it's around 2:37. I meant it in "the amount of material you could relieve" but should use a different word. Thanks for catching that! Are you a fan of old Martin's?
@@JeremySheppard OH yeah! I don't own any yet but have been keeping my eyes peeled for a 70s D18 I can send over to Bryan Kimsey for his full workup. Not sure if you've heard much about his work but he's very highly regarded over at the martin forum.
Great video! I have a ‘72 D-28 I’ve been trying to sell. It’s condition is very, very similar to this one - no cracks though. I listed it locally (FB Marketplace) for $2000. I’ve had a lot of interest but I keep getting lowball offers ($1000-$1500). Maybe I should have started with a higher listing price? I just figured I’d list it at a very reasonable price and maybe knock off a hundred or two, but no bites. I’ll prob just remove my listing, and keep enjoying it for a few more years to see where the market will take it.
I think the market is probably around $2,000, but if you start at that price, people always want to "get a deal." Also, with pandemics, prices are a bit wonky.
I have early 70s Martins, a '74 D-28S and a '70 D-12-28. So many of these guitars require a neck reset and fretboard work that 1300-1700 is a more realistic range.
@Matthew Hoover If it's in good condition with the original blue case, $1800 - $2200 is a good price. You'll find a buyer for it. Just ignore those ppl who want something for nothing. You'll get a lot of that on ebay & marketplace. Try listing it on Etsy.
does it have the misplaced bridge? i have a 72 d 18 and it does not. it had a neck reset 3 yrs ago. i am the original owner. i love it and would never sell it. and it has the blue case too.no issues at all
A very interesting and detailed appraisal. 70s Martins have a variable reputation on the forums, but this one sounds very nice, at least on my equipment. I do think you are right about people wanting these to be worth more than they are. They are never going to be vintage guitars in the sense of being rare and collectable. There are quite a few of them around. They are, however, extremely reliable gigging guitars. Since you commented on the price, I have to say your estimate struck me as still on the high side, not because of the wear (it's 50 years old, for goodness sake), but because of the need for a neck reset. In the UK, that would come in at at least £300, and you never know what you are going to get into when you open up a neck that has already had a reset, especially where the action has become high again and almost certainly had the saddle sanded down to accommodate that. I suppose you could shave the bridge to save on a reset, but honestly that's a philosophy of despair and will only delay the inevitable. There's not much of a market for guitars that only play nice in the first position!.
Back in the 90's the 70's Martins and all brands of guitars were generally looked down upon for quality issues. Forty or more years later, it seems history has forgotten much of this and the instruments of the 70's are priced very high.
You're right, I know that in my experience, being born in 87, I was always told how much the 70's martin's dropped in quality in the 70's. The guy I worked for always said, "the last great American guitar was made in 1968." referring to the end of Brazilian Martins.
@@JeremySheppard According to most sources the end of the Brazilian D-28s came to an end in October of '69. There have been confirmed Brazilian Martin's as late as early '70 but only a handful. I have a late 1969 D-28 that is an early Indian rosewood construction and it has the most full sound I have ever heard on a Martin. I once owned a '66 D-28 and it didn't sound as good as my '69. I don't buy into the whole Brazilian rosewood thing. Way overrated and not essential for a guitar to sound great.
@@goplad1 Very much agreed!!!! I've owned & seen several Martin's with "questionable" backs or "questionable" sides as late as 73, but never both. I'm sure there are complete BRW 69's & 70's out there. I've also seen 70's D-35's & D-41's with "questionable" center pieces as well. I would always double check anything from 69-74 & I agree with you 100% about BRW!!!! It's highly over rated as is Adirondack spruce. It's all mostly hype used to jack the prices up!!!!
@@redlinemando According to one source the last know BRW Martin was around the 249000 serial number. Mine is serial number 257615. It probably dates to Sept. or Oct. '69. My question is how can anyone give an absolute serial number cut off? It seems pretty arbitrary to me. Like I said mine sounds just great whether it is Indian or Brazilian. Just saying.
@@goplad1 There isn't a definitive cut off serial#. There are only educated guesses at best. I'm sure Martin didn't keep clear records of that & yet they've kept detailed records of repair work done on guitars. It's another nod to the theory that they were planning on mismatching backs & sides in order to keep making money on the stockpiled BRW. BRW is highly overrated. Indian sounds just as good if not a little better. It's definitely warmer sounding. Almost all the high end guitars I've owned have been Indian.
You could swap out the Grover's for some open-back Waverly's and free up some mass on the neck. You could always put them back on to re-sell it to keep it 70's period correct. But, if I bought it and was going to keep it long term, I'd do open-back Waverly's.
I don't like second holes or conversion bushings. I have only recently heard people poo poo Grover tuners, I like them a lot because they fit the time period. Have you swapped any personally? Is it really noticeable?
I swapped mine for 18:1 Grovers. Surprising how much that changes the feel of the guitar and I think the resonance as well. It really sings. Cheaper than Waverlys, stays in tune well and no visible holes on the headstock. Small visible discoloration ring around the posts on the plate from the gotohs covering it for 45 years
@@JeremySheppard If it were a brazilian Martin, I'd say don't do it. I don't like extra or visible holes in the back of a peghead either, but it does make a noticeable difference in the sound & overall feel of a guitar. It will also make the neck weight feel more balanced with the body. If they still make them, you can buy open or closed back "kluson" style Grovers made with the same size "screw in" type of bushings that fit seamlessly & they are very affordable. I put a set on my former 72 D-28 & also on my current 73 D-28. I only had to drill upper holes, but I love them!!!! If you like sustain & don't mind the unbalanced neck weight of the Grover Rotomatics, keep them on & let the next person worry about it. I mean.......if the guy is going to sell it anyway, why invest more in it. You will get less sustain & a more focused attack with the "kluson style tuners. For bluegrass music, the guy will like the difference. Everybody's ears are different, but in my experience, they enhances the guitars natural tones & take away a lot of the metallic sound that heavier tuners can cause. In essence, it will move the sound of the guitar toward the direction of a 50's Martin & enhance some of the warmer tones.
@@JeremySheppard Hey Jeremy. I met Jay yesterday and he told me you did a review on his guitar. I also know Raymond Stepp. As for the tuners. I put a set of Waverly open backs on a 80' D-35 that belonged to my dad. I dont really like the second hole either, but this guitar is a player anyway and has been played a ton, and I've had to have some work done on it. Neck reset, bridge, frets, ...As for the tuners, like jdcrowe82 said, I installed a set and did notice a difference in the guitar, and like it. Not to mention the Waverly's tune so much better in my opinion. Guess they should for the price. I did keep the old tuners but several were shot. The 35 is not my pick of Martin guitars, but the guy that did my work told me it was one of the best sounding 35s he has had his hands on. I have an older D18GE that is the best sounding Martin I have owned, and I have had a few over the years, lol. If I had a collectible guitar I might not want to drill another hole either. By the way, enjoy your videos. EE
I remember the Casino guitars fellas telling a story about walking past a Taylor booth at a bluegrass festival, and overhearing one old one say to another, "I would NEVER ......
@@JeremySheppard A few yrs ago I found a 1941 D-28 in Tennessee. It sounded remarkable & it was in good condition!!!!!!! The man wanted about $10,000 for it. I could have probably talked him out of it for 8k or 9k. I tried talking my father in law into buying it, but he wanted to find a 47 herringbone. That's the year he was born & it's a virtual impossibility to find one, if there's even one in existence. I believe Martin discontinued the herringbone binding in 46. Maybe one or two bled over, but I seriously doubt it. I later found out that the 41 D-28 was sold to a man in California & he was asking $17000 for it. My father in law has since passed & I'll most likely never be able to afford one of that age. Well..............at least I've got to play & experience a few of them. I did own a 46 D-18, but I was young, dumb & hadn't heard of a neck set back then.
I have a flawless 1972 D-28 Martin I been thinking about selling.. I just don’t have the original guitar case. It has a case that the original owner had and it has all of his stickers from shows he did and some beliefs he had etc.. a couple bluegrass stickers.
How was the neck profile on that one? I like thicker necks, and I have heard early 70s Martins have a chunkier profile than a modern Martin. Wondering if I should look that way...
I bought a D-28 in 1972 for $400. It was made in 1969 -- the year Martin switched from Brazilian to Indian Rosewood. Luckily, mine was made early in 1969 and is Brazilian. Had it for 50 years in 2022 and still do. Superb instrument.
Just joined your channel and FB page. We are twin sons of a different mother! LOL Loved this video. I own two Martins, a 1976 D-28 and a 1980 D-12-28, both of which I will never part with!
Back in the 80's,I traded a Les Paul Standard for an early 70's Martin D- 28 , almost identical to this one but with the original tortise shell pick guard. I think they had started using Indian Rosewood by then.so the tone wasn't as bright as the Brazillian Rosewood,that they used to use.I was playing more bluegrass back then & always wanted a Martin.The guitar had a beautiful sound,but I started noticing problems immediately.Intonation was way off because the brigde had been glued in the wrong position,so that had to be reset,& it probably could have used a neck reset(no truss rods yet on Martins) but I couldn't afford it.Looking back,I probably should have had a Luthier check it out before trading that Les Paul,not knowing as much about guitars as I do now.But my point here is,I heard there was a period during the early 70's where Martin's quality control was having problems(they were labeled the so called "junk martins").Do you know if this is true,or just a made up myth.Anyway,I played that guitar for a while after fixing the problems & and it was great.I still play a Martin,but one of the newer models.If you could,let me know if this was true about the quality control thing.Thanks. great channel !
Bridge often glued in the wrong place is the main reason 70's Martins are cheaper used than other era Martins - to the best of my knowledge. The 70's were a bad period for most US guitar manufacturers, for that matter. Everybody & his brother wanted to play guitar in the70's - hence too many made, too little quality control.
Good day Jeremy, Mate what you do would be my dream job, You hit the road and hunt for treasure Guitars. Sadly though there no market for that here Down Under. Aussies are just starting to get to know Great American Guitars like the Martins, Gibsons and the Taylors.
To me.....a 70's Martin vs a newer model just comes down to if you want an older more used and weathered guitar. A good used Martin can be found for $1500 - $4000. I chose to buy a newer Used Martin for $2000....I didn't want to have to deal with a neck reset and some of the other issues that come with older guitars and I didn't feel like I was getting more by spending $3000-$4000 for better example from the 70's
@@torontolarrivee7965 Actually that is a common misconception. early Martin's have a truss rod.....it's just not adjustable like today's rods. There is a metal rod in 70's necks
Jeremy! Nice and honest review! As I stated in another video I had almost every issue when I first got my 1979 HD-28 as this D-28. Once they are fixed they sound amazing, especially when I got my neck reset with hyde glue. By the way I noticed Dream Guitars in Asheville had a D-45 Gene Autry for sale just so you know. JR North Carolina
Hi Jeremy, I enjoyed the video. I didn't know that the necks on acoustic guitars could be removed. wow. I guess that does explain the low saddle. I wouldn't buy that guitar if I knew the action was going to stay that height. Great that your buddy Jay let you do this video on his guitar. Jeremy, how do I learn about verifying the authenticity of tuning heads (when they're sold separately from the guitar)? For this guitar for example? Thanks
These are pretty straightforward, because they are patent number grovers. And those basically were only made in the early 70s. There were Grover tuners before that, I'm not sure why the patent number showed up on these. But they are the correct ones for this time. Years ago I read a book about tuning heads, I can't remember the name of the book.
@@JeremySheppard thank you. I've been considering them as purchases and then trying to sell them on Reverb. Clearly though, I would need some knowledge. I'll stick with what I know...and it's not tuners :)
I have been playing guitar since I was 4 years old. I have never liked Taylor or Gibson guitars, and I am finding myself veering away from Martin now, as well. I used to own 4 Martin USA guitars, now I am down to just 2...both are all mahogany (D-15 and 000-15), and I keep them around only for recording purposes. I hardly ever play them when I am just noodling and/or writing songs. They just don't sound the way I want the guitar to sound until I put a mic in front of them. They are also way overpriced - maybe not Gibson acoustics as much, but 100% Taylor and the D18 series (and up) Martins should not cost more than a custom boutique builder. I got a Maestro guitar in October that blows away any Martin I have ever played...and it costs about $1000 less than a D-18. I do not play bluegrass, and I understand these are primarily bluegrass instruments. For me, there is not that much value in the sound a Martin, Taylor, or Gibson; most of the cost is in the brand recognition, and not the instrument. Just my opinion. I know I will get hate for this from the Taylor/Martin/Gibson cult followers, hahaha! Cool video, Jeremy! 🐰❤️🎸🎵✨🤝✌️
Jack, no hate coming from me. We all have our own tastes when it comes down to tone. I own a Martina and two Taylors. Each has its own voice, feel and tone.
never knew that these 70s martins didnt have a adjustable truss rod therefore wouldnt touch it ,and i work on guitars unless it was maybe in good shape would offer $1500 but no more ,thanks for info
@@mjt5576 I meant to say I wouldnt buy 1 for myself but sure I would work on 1 ,I know the old guitars sound amazing but for my money (personal preference )no I wouldnt buy 1 for personal use unless it was for playing slide lol I have a old 39 stella guitar and same thing no truss so its for playing slide ,neck reset not worth it on that guitar but it was designed for slide
Curious, if that age Martin has lacquer checking on top, I thought it’s not good as dirt and oils will get below if not addressed? Read where peeps use lacquer retarder injected to flash and melt the seems closed? Ever heard of the technique?
That I know of, Martin has never put a serial# on or in the body itself. It's either stamped on the neck block inside the guitar or written on the end of the neck, but you'd have to take the neck off to see it. (not recommended) They might have stamped a number on the back of the peghead of the old parlor guitars, but I've never seen or heard of such. I've played a few of the old "Wurlitzer" Martins & they're really nice guitars.
That's a really nice guitar!!!!!!! Those cracks wouldn't bother me in the least. They seem to have been repaired properly & as long as they're not moving, I wouldn't be too concerned. I would however be concerned about what condition the bridge plate is in. That much string wear in front of the pin holes is not always, but usually a sign of considerable bridge plate wear. I would also want to know if there has ever been any non factory brace work done. All of that comes with the territory of buying a well loved & played, vintage guitar & should absolutely be reflected in the price paid for such. That said, this is still a great guitar & worth at least $2200!!!!!!! I've always laughed about the 60's Martins having very rounded pegheads. I've got a 63 & the peghead corners are VERY rounded. You're right about Brazilian RW. It's a great tone wood, but greatly overpriced & there are MANY other tone woods out there that can give you very similar results in sound. Many tonal qualities are manipulated through the brace work & other structural inner workings anyway. I would definitely have a neck set done on that guitar & probably replace the 1st 5 frets. I'm a bluegrass guitarist & lead player. I play all the way up to the body at times & that action is way too high for me. The intonation would definitely be effected by that, just as you've demonstrated. Another issue most of the 70's Martins have is that the bridge isn't exactly in the correct location. They tend to be about 1/8 of an inch too far towards the sound hole. Yes, this guitar does indeed have some issues, but what vintage guitar doesn't. Again, it comes with the territory. I would send it to Bryan Kimsey for any repair work it needs & a professional setup. He is more than capable of giving it the TLC it might need!!!!!!! This guitar has a top grade solid Sitka spruce top with some nice cross grain effect. It also has top grade straight grain Indian RW in the back & I've always felt that straight grained Indian RW tends to sound better, being more responsive & vibrant across the different tonal frequencies of a guitar. This guitar would be a terrific investment for anyone, if the price is right. It sounds great over your mic & that proves it would make an awesome studio guitar!!!!!!!
This piqued my interest in prices. There's one on FB marketplace right now, for $3700 (1970 D28). Have they jumped up into that price range, since you made this video a year or so ago? Or, is it overpriced?
I doubt the bridgeplate was Brazilian, more likely Indian and you are completely wrong about saying "little pieces." The 70's bridge plates where huge and thick and had a big and very negative effect on tone and volume.
@@JeremySheppard IDK It's very possible for it to be brazilian in the early 70's, but the bridge plates were indeed big during that era. Many well known luthiers & collectors will tell you that Martin continued to use brazilian until about 73 or 74. They would sometimes miss-match the back & sides of the 28's & also use BRW in the middle piece on some D-35's of the era. I've owned a few early 70's D-28's, played a TON of them & I've personally seen some "questionable" wood on quite a few of them. I'm no wood expert, but it makes perfect sense, from a business standpoint, that they wouldn't lose money & waste all that stockpiled BRW. Given the deforestation laws at the time, they would never admit to such & the books will always say they used Indian. Regardless, I would look very closely at any 69-74 Martin & be sure before I ever sold it.
I note that you are changing the strings by removing all of them at the same time, which i'm told causes sudden stress to the neck. One string at a time surely is more less traumatic to a guitar of that age, or any age for that matter.
@Phil Gyles No offense meant & I hope you don't take any. I get what you're saying & I somewhat agree, but wouldn't say it's traumatic stress. Anything done to a vintage guitar to change the tension, should be done a bit in moderation, but guitars are also built for this as well. His video is sped up a LOT during this process & it took much longer than it seemed. He also pretty much strung it right back up immediately after, so it wasn't all that stressful on the guitar.
Seventies Martins are infamous for their bad intonation. Their bridges are slightly off is what everyone says. But yeah I could hear it immediately. Oof.
1970's Martin has big problems. It has Truss rod but can't adjustable itself so if you need to adjust string height, it costs over several hundred dollars for reset. And more pickguards was shrinked and causes crack on soundhole. After sold it, I never buy it again.
They have truss rods, they are just nonadjustable. The bigger problem is the neck angle itself, it will require a reset. But, across the country, you should only have to pay around $350 for a neck reset and new saddle. I've checked with many luthiers and repair people that follow the channel.
The late 70s was terrible for everyone except the Japanese manufacturers. Ibanez, aria, takamine, burny, tokai, Yamaha. All produced some of the greatest guitars of the last 65 years
Bought my D-28, new in 1970 (serial # 264XXX). Earned my way through college giving lessons. In ‘74 top bulged. Probably left it in a hot car once too many. Sent it back to Martin and completely re-did the guitar as an HD-28. Replaced the top, changed to a small bridge plate, scalloped bracing, herring bone binding. Sent it back to me and stamped “Custom” above the serial #. No charge to me. Guitar remains in excellent condition, Always wondered if it would be of any significant greater value.
Wowowowo! How amazing!
@Ralph Buoncristiani
If I'm not mistaken 74 or 75 was the first year Martin reissued the herringbone D-28. Most of the first ones would be identical to a standard D-28 with exception of having herringbone binding. It would also be the first time they would be referred to as an HD-28 on the neck block. Some of these HD's would also feature scalloped bracing, although it's unknown as to why all of these first reissues were not factory scalloped. Perhaps it was thought of after production had already gotten well under way. Later, it would become known as a staple of the HD's features.
The reissuing of the HD's could be exactly why your guitar got an HD makeover. I used to know a man up in Wisconsin why had a 74 HD with a custom stamp in it. It was a beast of a guitar & I had a chance to buy it, but I was only 19 at the time & didn't know much about them. Seeing as how your guitar's makeover was done by Martin, it should be worth the same as an HD-28 from that era & in the same condition.
Wait they did all those upgrades at no charge? Wow.
@@torontolarrivee7965 As best I can remember there was no charge. If there was, it was nominal. I was a poor student and wouldn't have afforded much investment into it back then. They had just (mid '70s) re-introduced the HD-28 into their product line so in essence, I have a HD-28 from a model year that they weren't actually made (1970).
@@JeremySheppardmaybe you should contact this man and make a video of that guitar?...
I have a D-28 that is just a few numbers off this one. I purchased it new in 1972. (Serial number shows it was built in 71.) The bridge was in the wrong place and I played the guitar out of tune for many years. Finally sent the guitar to Bryan Kimsey. He put a new bridge in the proper location, took out the huge rosewood bridge plate and replace it with a smaller one, shaved the X braces a bit. Neck reset. My D-28 is now one of the finest sounding Martins I've ever played. Bryan took just enough off the X bracing to give it a much better sound.
I will speak for myself, but would imagine that I have similar sentiments to others that come to see your content.
Thank you for a great channel. Thank you for your expertise and sharing your knowledge. It shows. Thank you for not lauding your education over everyone like a club. Thank you for not trying to be anything other than exactly what you are. I wish I knew you personally.
I've reset 18 necks from late 1800s-early 1900s, and a couple mandos. Only one guitar and one mando I actually had to pull the neck. I've never seen anyone else do this: I heat a moist dish towel under the neck that's strapped to the table, this puts moisture into the neck - specifically under the bent area; I pull the neck down to a backbow with clamps until I measure the right backbow (takes a day or two). Once released, I let it dry out, then simply oil the neck and re-string it. Voila - neck has proper backbow with nothing on the guitar pulled off/cut/re-glued etc. Keeps it all original. Of course many things to be careful of (especially glued joints and messing up neck finish). It's worked for me and I've made horrible guitars and mandos actually playable again! I wonder why luthiers go right to re-sets and don't simply bend the neck back to straight...
I love my 1969 D18. I bought new. Yes the head stick is very rounded. Vintage 60’s look. Sound is incredible.
Love Love Love my 72 D35.... I also play a 94 810 Taylor, so I getr the difference that Jay is experiencing... keep em both!
I have a '70 D-28 that is very similar to this one except I have the original blue case, too. It was purchased for club gigs by the original owner so it has a similar set of war wounds from being rode hard and put away wet in the early days. It has always sounded great, and plays especially well since Pat DiBurro gave it the full overhaul a few years ago - neck reset, crack repairs, new pick guard, bridge relocation, etc. He also replaced the whatever-they-were-made-of nut and saddle with bone. Like you, he recommended leaving the frets original and just crowned and polished them. Thanks for this review. Your valuation seems to match the market in the northeast US.
instaBlaster
My 1984 D28 that I got via in-factory connections, still has the non-adjustable truss rod. Will never be separated from it.
Wonderful, honest, passionate review. Thanks!
In October 2021 I played a 1972 D-28 at Emerald City Guitars in Seattle. It had just had a neck reset and was for sale at $2,750. I didn't give it a microscopic look like Jeremy did but it seemed cleaner than the one in the video. According to this video, looks like it was fairly priced. Maybe I should have bought it.
That piece of wood just got something very special going on. What a guitar and absolutely great demo. Thank you! :)
When I had my '71 built, I asked my luthier to give me a matt finish, not being a fan of gloss, and to lower the action and consider me a picker rather than a strummer. Also by Xmas, a crack showed up. So I sent it back to Martin and he said, "It relieved itself and sounds more open." He fixed the crack and when I got it back... it sounded beautiful!! My friends thought so too!
Hi there, Jeremy!
I haven't read all the comments, so, I'm not sure if anyone else addressed your comment of the Rosewood Bridgeplates on early 70's Martins.
First off, they aren't "Little pieces of Brazilian Rosewood" that make up the revamped Bridgeplate. Compared to the 1-1/4" wide (Small) Maple Bridgeplate, the Rosewood Bridgeplates are nearly 3 times as wide, or over 3 inches wide; and clearly, enough hardwood glued to Sitka Spruce to really dampen the top's natural vibrations at the most crucial spot under the Bridge. Certainly, not "Little" by any means, especially compared to the older Smaller Maple plates. Plus, Martin made that change from Maple to Rosewood circa 1966-67, when they were still using Brazilian for the back and sides. Then, they may have used Brazilian for the larger 3" Bridgeplate? But, by 1971 (I know, I have a 1971 D-28) the Bridgeplate was more than 3 inches of East Indian Rosewood, hardly Brazilian by 1971 when they had phased out Brazilian on the whole guitar by 1969-70. There were some instances between 69 and 71 when any left over pieces of Brazilian were being used for the middle of the 3 sided backs of some D-35's. It was extremely random and rare. That's about it on Bridgeplates.
But, I do agree with you that Brazilian is NOT worth 3 times what East Indian Rosewood is worth. Your simply buying nostalgia.
I have a ‘72 Martin 000 custom. Original case. Binding on headstock loose. Cool guitar purchased from television celebrity estate in 1994.
That's a nice find!!!!!!! I'd call Martin & find out what the "custom" stamp was for. It usually means it was a special order or sent back to the factory for repairs. It would be worth finding out.
Good review and appraisal. I recently sold/lost a 1971 D-28 in a transaction involving Reverb and UPS. This guitar sold on Reverb for $3K to a buyer in England. I received his funds and sent the guitar. Unknown to me was that Indian rosewood had joined Brazilian rosewood with custom restrictions. I was warned by Reverb that this might happen. However UPS assured me multiple times that no additional paperwork was required. I chose to let the shipment proceed over seas. The guitar was impounded, I returned the money, I lost the guitar.
My 2018 HD28 has less than an 1/8” on the saddle. I would be happy. With an 1/8. Its the second new Martin I have owned with zero room for adjustment on the saddle. I called Martin and they were not interested, they said take it back to the dealer. I live in the uk and the dealer is us so I decided to sell in the end. The question is, how low does the saddle have to be before Martin will do a warranty neck reset
Thanks!
What a remarkable gift!!! Thanks so much!
Jeremy, I've enjoyed your videos. I'm a early Martin D-28 owner, learning to play.
Sounds heavenly! At 10:37 when you play up the dusty end you can hear the intonation is a hair off.
My brother and I bought two Martin D35s back in 1976. They are great guitars. My brother still had his when he passed away five years ago. Someone robbed my house and took my D35 in the mid 80s. That's life. Martin guitars had that yellowish tent on the front of them. Now they have an all white look on them. I like the yellowish tent much better. Awesome video thanks for sharing. Stay well and safe my friend. Btw, If Jay is a blue grass person why is he selling this guitar?
I'm sorry about your loss. Did the guitar stay in his or your family? That's very cool to have two examples for so long. Sorry yours got stolen.
@@JeremySheppard Yes my brothers son got all his musical instruments. He had two D35's and one D45 and a nice Gibson. I don't know the model number of the Gibson. I'm sure they will be kept in his family for many years to come. I bought a new D35 in 2001. Most likely I will never buy another guitar. Unless I run up on the right deal. I have bought and sold a few over the years. Your video was awesome. I would like to see more similar to this video. Stay well & safe out there.
7:47 sounds really good!! If I was the owner I'd definitely keep it..
Great review and love the tone response from the aforementioned 72' D-28. In my opinion, I think 70's Martins are great, regardless of Martin's spec change. However, like any vintage guitars they are a hit or miss. I managed to find a Great sounding D 12 28 from 1976 and it is by far the BEST sounding 12 string I have ever played (amongst the others). Cheers
Try Matons, from the 70’s, fraction of the cost. (If you can find one).
Something every 70’s Martin needs is the braces scalloped. Opened my wife’s D-28 up. They’re too thick. Everything is so thick and they still crack.
Loved the video, man! I look forward to every video you upload, always interesting, and you can see how passionate you are. Definitely inspires me, and I'm sure lots of other people too. Stay safe!
I have an early 72 D-28 that I recently purchased from Elderly. It's beaten up but sounds and plays amazing. I played several models from the 40s to the 60s and wanted them to sound like the one I have. It has its quirks but the things it does well make it jump back in my hand all day long. It was $2,500 but had over $1,000 in wok done to it to get it where it plays like butter and rings like a bell all the way up the neck. I think it's my most emotive acoustic.
I bet it would sound much much better with Mediums. Sure it might be a bit rough on an older guitar to have all that tension. But the magic of Martin's really has a lot to do with the fact the guitars are designed for mediums. I used lights for years until I got my Martin (D10e 02 Sitka Spruce top). I'm used to heavier gauges but at first I just put on lights out of habit. But it was missing the magic I was used to hearing when playing other Martin's. I put medium 80/20's on it and it became everything I've ever wanted in an acoustic. They really are just as easy to bend as lights since they are a little bigger your fingers have more to push/pull against. And playing fingerstyle with mediums on a Martin sounds and feels great which I also didn't expect. Mediums on any other acoustic have always been a let down and lacked sustain so I never thought I'd like them. But the trick was using them on a guitar designed for use with the tension of mediums. Sadly in this example the high action would only get worse with the extra tension but I really feel like there's more tone in that guitar than we are hearing. But for country/bluegrass those lights might be just the ticket so for those reasons along with the age of the guitar I fully understand using lights. I could be mistaken but I'm pretty sure from listening that you restrung with lights. Great video, I really enjoyed the info about 70s Martin's. I love learning new things about the history of the company's behind the guitars you feature.
These were mediums. Sacrilegious to put lights on them, according to the owner. Haha. Elixir phosphor bronze nanoweb mediums.
@@JeremySheppard Lol that's too funny! I completely believe they are mediums though, I just knew something was "different". I'm an 80/20 guy through and through so if I hear Phosphor bronze something sounds off. There's nothing wrong with them and it is what Martin recommends afterall(Medium PB's). I just like the extra top end of 80/20s. It helps to keep my short fingernail fingerstyle from sounding dull. Lol I knew something seemed different. I wonder when Martin started recommending PB'S? Anyways, thanks for the reply I got a good laugh out of my misinterpretation of what I thought I was hearing.
I always use 0.13's on my guitars, also on my 1970 D35, if possible even bronze, not too much a phosphor fan, makes my good guitars sounds like a Taylor :-) On my Collings D42A I love to have GHS vintage bronze especially, otherwise she sounds too loud and brutal to me and my wife - she plays a 1992 Martin M36 - does not like the harsh sound of the D42A at all, always asks me to get another guitar when I play the Collings. My CJ is much warmer and less "brutal", but I still prefer my early 70's D35 with 0.13s...
@@d35s2 That's interesting, I didn't know GHS made vintage bronze strings. I'll certainly keep that in mind if one of my guitars ever sounds like it could benefit from them. I've been a string joy convert ever since I started using their electric strings on my extended range guitars so I could customize the gauges for the same price as a normal pack of theirs. At first before trying them I thought they were over priced but after a few years of using string joys and occasionally going back to other name brand strings like Martin, Elixer etc. I always find there's absolutely no competition. But truly you should be able to feel an hear a difference from the moment you string them up and play. I really wanted to belueve it was all marketing an placebo effect, lol i was so ready to call them on their bs but i ended up loving them lol. I also found that their core wire is much more durable. I work on my guitars a lot and love to do modifications and I don't always want to buy new strings if I just put the current ones on the guitar in working on in the last few days. And with the string joy strings I can take them off and on a couple times detuning and retuning each time without a break. Conversely with Martin strings if I look at them wrong they break d ; But theres something to be said for cheap and quickly available. If you ever wanna try a new string brand for the fun of it or you want custom gauges I highly recommend trying them out. Maybe just on your wife's #1 and your #1. But you also brought up a good point, each guitar is going to be suited to a certain type and gauge of string and it's not always going to be our preference that sounds the best.
Edit: "Makes my good guitars sound like a Taylor." Lol I had to laugh at that since its so relatable.
@@michaelinglis567 Thank you for your interesting comment Michael. I will see where I can find them. I am afraid I also have to agree to what you say about Martin strings breaking. Unfortunately had the same experience many times. Most of the time these last years I have used the blue package DARCO 0.13s (presumably made by CF Martin, but funny enough, these don't break on my guitars. Problem is that I heard that the acoustic DARCO strings will be or are no longer available. Therefore I looked everywhere on Ebay and other websites and bought about 40 sets of the 0.13's. I understood that the DARCO strings for electric guitars are still available. Enjoy playing and experimenting Michael and have a great weekend!
couple things I didn't hear mentioned are a) the 70's labour dispute where there was sabbotaging of the bridge position (which affects intonation) which I believe ended '71.. b) the blue thermoplastic cases twisting/warping. My '72 D-28 seems to be fine for the bridge position, but need to check again, but the thermoplastic case I stopped using (tho still have it) because it's started to deform and the clasps no longer completely line up...
that said, I loved hearing your overview and I'm confident in holding onto mine (my father was the original owner and babied it so it's near mint) I've always noticed a difference in it versus newer acoustics I've had over the years..
Enjoy your videos very informative thanks for posting
I bought my first Martin in 1972 and it was also a D-28. It cost $495 with case. I was able to use a 60's Framus Texan as partial payment. I loved that guitar but had it less than two years when I got the opportunity to buy a 1964 Martin D-28SW. I had to trade the D-28 and throw in $350 which I paid in installments over several months. Shortly after paying for the SW I had a chance to buy, which I did, a 1965 Martin 00-21NY for $200. That 00-21 is one guitar that I wish that I had hung onto. I'm too embarrassed to say what I traded it for but let's just say that more than 30 years later I still regret getting rid of it.
I bought my D28 new in 1972. Still love it!
Beautiful playing I bought one today. Sounds incredible. thirty two hundred .
The early 70s Martin’s sound as good as the 60s. There was that bridge placement issue but that was corrected. Due to this, which didn’t last long they are way under priced and undervalued. Get one while you can for a decent price. They will only go up in value. Great guitars.
I have a 72 D28 that I purchased new. It was great for about 8 years , then the action got worse to the point I started playing other guitars . As I also notice the intonation made the guitar unplayable. The pick guard curled and I took it off. The top has a crack and the bridge has lifted . I put it in the case (original samsonite) and I haven’t played it 40 years. I took it to a authorized repair and they said I just needed new strings . I called Martin about 10 years ago and they never got back to me . I’m ready to address this again after watching your video. I sure could use some coaching. Thanks Dale
Send me an email. jeremy@jeremysheppard.com
If you're the original owner, Martin will restore the guitar under warranty.
Great appraisal from a fair, articulate, & informed source. // Do you know what years the “blue case” was the norm ?
That probably came out of nowhere for most. I just got finished visiting other sites, looking for similar information. I can count at least 10 sites where the lesson was not about guitars, rather the person who was "teaching" about them.
Jason Isbell "Different Days" at 10:27 , nice
Hi Jeremy, how do you check the intonation and how to correct if its out.
Hey man, never seen your channel before but I really love your style and all the info. I just got my hands on a 1978 Hirade master artes model seven. The front is a little beat up but overall it seems like a great instrument. Would you have any idea where I can find info for something like this? Keep up the great content!
I'm glad we're connected! I don't know Hirades very well. I'd check out the Gruhn book or the vintage price guide.
@@JeremySheppard awesome, will do, thank you!
Relief is the bow of the neck, not the saddle height. Also, a measurement of action at the 12th fret would be useful in knowing if it needs a neck reset. If the action is perfect that saddle will be fine for the near future.
Where did I say relief? You're absolutely right.
@@JeremySheppard You said it when you mentioned saddle height. Oh well we all make mistakes :)
Right, it's around 2:37. I meant it in "the amount of material you could relieve" but should use a different word. Thanks for catching that! Are you a fan of old Martin's?
@@JeremySheppard OH yeah! I don't own any yet but have been keeping my eyes peeled for a 70s D18 I can send over to Bryan Kimsey for his full workup. Not sure if you've heard much about his work but he's very highly regarded over at the martin forum.
2nd sending it to Bryan Kimsey after acquiring it!
agreed. Any Martin D from the 70's and early 80's I'd send to Kimsey.
Great video! I have a ‘72 D-28 I’ve been trying to sell. It’s condition is very, very similar to this one - no cracks though. I listed it locally (FB Marketplace) for $2000. I’ve had a lot of interest but I keep getting lowball offers ($1000-$1500). Maybe I should have started with a higher listing price? I just figured I’d list it at a very reasonable price and maybe knock off a hundred or two, but no bites.
I’ll prob just remove my listing, and keep enjoying it for a few more years to see where the market will take it.
I think the market is probably around $2,000, but if you start at that price, people always want to "get a deal." Also, with pandemics, prices are a bit wonky.
Where's FB market place?
Online- Facebook Marketplace. Sold locally
I have early 70s Martins, a '74 D-28S and a '70 D-12-28. So many of these guitars require a neck reset and fretboard work that 1300-1700 is a more realistic range.
@Matthew Hoover If it's in good condition with the original blue case, $1800 - $2200 is a good price. You'll find a buyer for it. Just ignore those ppl who want something for nothing. You'll get a lot of that on ebay & marketplace. Try listing it on Etsy.
does it have the misplaced bridge? i have a 72 d 18 and it does not. it had a neck reset 3 yrs ago. i am the original owner. i love it and would never sell it. and it has the blue case too.no issues at all
@mark varon It's a common issue with the 70's Martin's, but not with all of them.
A very interesting and detailed appraisal. 70s Martins have a variable reputation on the forums, but this one sounds very nice, at least on my equipment. I do think you are right about people wanting these to be worth more than they are. They are never going to be vintage guitars in the sense of being rare and collectable. There are quite a few of them around. They are, however, extremely reliable gigging guitars. Since you commented on the price, I have to say your estimate struck me as still on the high side, not because of the wear (it's 50 years old, for goodness sake), but because of the need for a neck reset. In the UK, that would come in at at least £300, and you never know what you are going to get into when you open up a neck that has already had a reset, especially where the action has become high again and almost certainly had the saddle sanded down to accommodate that. I suppose you could shave the bridge to save on a reset, but honestly that's a philosophy of despair and will only delay the inevitable. There's not much of a market for guitars that only play nice in the first position!.
Sounds great!
Back in the 90's the 70's Martins and all brands of guitars were generally looked down upon for quality issues. Forty or more years later, it seems history has forgotten much of this and the instruments of the 70's are priced very high.
You're right, I know that in my experience, being born in 87, I was always told how much the 70's martin's dropped in quality in the 70's. The guy I worked for always said, "the last great American guitar was made in 1968." referring to the end of Brazilian Martins.
@@JeremySheppard According to most sources the end of the Brazilian D-28s came to an end in October of '69. There have been confirmed Brazilian Martin's as late as early '70 but only a handful. I have a late 1969 D-28 that is an early Indian rosewood construction and it has the most full sound I have ever heard on a Martin. I once owned a '66 D-28 and it didn't sound as good as my '69. I don't buy into the whole Brazilian rosewood thing. Way overrated and not essential for a guitar to sound great.
@@goplad1 Very much agreed!!!! I've owned & seen several Martin's with "questionable" backs or "questionable" sides as late as 73, but never both. I'm sure there are complete BRW 69's & 70's out there. I've also seen 70's D-35's & D-41's with "questionable" center pieces as well. I would always double check anything from 69-74 & I agree with you 100% about BRW!!!! It's highly over rated as is Adirondack spruce. It's all mostly hype used to jack the prices up!!!!
@@redlinemando According to one source the last know BRW Martin was around the 249000 serial number. Mine is serial number 257615. It probably dates to Sept. or Oct. '69. My question is how can anyone give an absolute serial number cut off? It seems pretty arbitrary to me. Like I said mine sounds just great whether it is Indian or Brazilian. Just saying.
@@goplad1 There isn't a definitive cut off serial#. There are only educated guesses at best. I'm sure Martin didn't keep clear records of that & yet they've kept detailed records of repair work done on guitars. It's another nod to the theory that they were planning on mismatching backs & sides in order to keep making money on the stockpiled BRW.
BRW is highly overrated. Indian sounds just as good if not a little better. It's definitely warmer sounding. Almost all the high end guitars I've owned have been Indian.
You could swap out the Grover's for some open-back Waverly's and free up some mass on the neck. You could always put them back on to re-sell it to keep it 70's period correct. But, if I bought it and was going to keep it long term, I'd do open-back Waverly's.
I don't like second holes or conversion bushings. I have only recently heard people poo poo Grover tuners, I like them a lot because they fit the time period. Have you swapped any personally? Is it really noticeable?
I swapped mine for 18:1 Grovers. Surprising how much that changes the feel of the guitar and I think the resonance as well. It really sings. Cheaper than Waverlys, stays in tune well and no visible holes on the headstock. Small visible discoloration ring around the posts on the plate from the gotohs covering it for 45 years
@@JeremySheppard If it were a brazilian Martin, I'd say don't do it. I don't like extra or visible holes in the back of a peghead either, but it does make a noticeable difference in the sound & overall feel of a guitar. It will also make the neck weight feel more balanced with the body. If they still make them, you can buy open or closed back "kluson" style Grovers made with the same size "screw in" type of bushings that fit seamlessly & they are very affordable. I put a set on my former 72 D-28 & also on my current 73 D-28. I only had to drill upper holes, but I love them!!!! If you like sustain & don't mind the unbalanced neck weight of the Grover Rotomatics, keep them on & let the next person worry about it. I mean.......if the guy is going to sell it anyway, why invest more in it.
You will get less sustain & a more focused attack with the "kluson style tuners. For bluegrass music, the guy will like the difference. Everybody's ears are different, but in my experience, they enhances the guitars natural tones & take away a lot of the metallic sound that heavier tuners can cause. In essence, it will move the sound of the guitar toward the direction of a 50's Martin & enhance some of the warmer tones.
@@JeremySheppard Hey Jeremy. I met Jay yesterday and he told me you did a review on his guitar. I also know Raymond Stepp. As for the tuners. I put a set of Waverly open backs on a 80' D-35 that belonged to my dad. I dont really like the second hole either, but this guitar is a player anyway and has been played a ton, and I've had to have some work done on it. Neck reset, bridge, frets, ...As for the tuners, like jdcrowe82 said, I installed a set and did notice a difference in the guitar, and like it. Not to mention the Waverly's tune so much better in my opinion. Guess they should for the price. I did keep the old tuners but several were shot. The 35 is not my pick of Martin guitars, but the guy that did my work told me it was one of the best sounding 35s he has had his hands on. I have an older D18GE that is the best sounding Martin I have owned, and I have had a few over the years, lol. If I had a collectible guitar I might not want to drill another hole either. By the way, enjoy your videos. EE
Love ur channel good job..Want to buy a guitar 🎸 from you for sure
Thank you for your review on the d28.it,s the year to buy if you want one. A1-3
Ok...you got me. What's the song that starts about 5:30?
I don't remember. It's licenced audio from Epidemic Sound.
I remember the Casino guitars fellas telling a story about walking past a Taylor booth at a bluegrass festival, and overhearing one old one say to another, "I would NEVER ......
I’ve heard that story too. 😂
North American guitar company here in London have a '37 D-18 for a very reasonable $60,000!!
Let's go halfsies on it!
@@JeremySheppard A few yrs ago I found a 1941 D-28 in Tennessee. It sounded remarkable & it was in good condition!!!!!!! The man wanted about $10,000 for it. I could have probably talked him out of it for 8k or 9k. I tried talking my father in law into buying it, but he wanted to find a 47 herringbone. That's the year he was born & it's a virtual impossibility to find one, if there's even one in existence. I believe Martin discontinued the herringbone binding in 46. Maybe one or two bled over, but I seriously doubt it. I later found out that the 41 D-28 was sold to a man in California & he was asking $17000 for it. My father in law has since passed & I'll most likely never be able to afford one of that age. Well..............at least I've got to play & experience a few of them. I did own a 46 D-18, but I was young, dumb & hadn't heard of a neck set back then.
I have a flawless 1972 D-28 Martin I been thinking about selling.. I just don’t have the original guitar case. It has a case that the original owner had and it has all of his stickers from shows he did and some beliefs he had etc.. a couple bluegrass stickers.
How was the neck profile on that one? I like thicker necks, and I have heard early 70s Martins have a chunkier profile than a modern Martin. Wondering if I should look that way...
I bought a D-28 in 1972 for $400. It was made in 1969 -- the year Martin switched from Brazilian to Indian Rosewood.
Luckily, mine was made early in 1969 and is Brazilian. Had it for 50 years in 2022 and still do. Superb instrument.
I have my original "steal me" blue case but I usually use a different case when taking my 1974 D-28 out.
That's brilliant. I've never heard that phrase but I will use it from now on.
A 1/3 less than a new one.with now appreciation.thank you.the best paul
hello jeremy.
i have the same guitar and i ask you what is your action because i think about a neck reset too ? best regards anthony (France)
Just joined your channel and FB page. We are twin sons of a different mother! LOL Loved this video. I own two Martins, a 1976 D-28 and a 1980 D-12-28, both of which I will never part with!
Back in the 80's,I traded a Les Paul Standard for an early 70's Martin D- 28 , almost identical to this one but with the original tortise shell pick guard. I think they had started using Indian Rosewood by then.so the tone wasn't as bright as the Brazillian Rosewood,that they used to use.I was playing more bluegrass back then & always wanted a Martin.The guitar had a beautiful sound,but I started noticing problems immediately.Intonation was way off because the brigde had been glued in the wrong position,so that had to be reset,& it probably could have used a neck reset(no truss rods yet on Martins) but I couldn't afford it.Looking back,I probably should have had a Luthier check it out before trading that Les Paul,not knowing as much about guitars as I do now.But my point here is,I heard there was a period during the early 70's where Martin's quality control was having problems(they were labeled the so called "junk martins").Do you know if this is true,or just a made up myth.Anyway,I played that guitar for a while after fixing the problems & and it was great.I still play a Martin,but one of the newer models.If you could,let me know if this was true about the quality control thing.Thanks. great channel !
Bridge often glued in the wrong place is the main reason 70's Martins are cheaper used than other era Martins - to the best of my knowledge. The 70's were a bad period for most US guitar manufacturers, for that matter. Everybody & his brother wanted to play guitar in the70's - hence too many made, too little quality control.
Good day Jeremy, Mate what you do would be my dream job, You hit the road and hunt for treasure Guitars. Sadly though there no market for that here Down Under. Aussies are just starting to get to know Great American Guitars like the Martins, Gibsons and the Taylors.
Don't forget Collings!
@@rosslynemrys5829 Collings? in order for me to afford it, I had to sell my left Kidney, my right eye and put my children up for adoption.
@@skraka98 I got a sweet deal on a used baby collings.
robert jaworski
What’s your point? 😆
I have it. 1971 D-28 in better condition than that one with the original heavy blue case! I love it...
Blue case!!
Which strings did you opt for? Sounds great
Elixir nanoweb phosphor bronze mediums.
@@JeremySheppard thankyou, keep up the great work
To me.....a 70's Martin vs a newer model just comes down to if you want an older more used and weathered guitar. A good used Martin can be found for $1500 - $4000. I chose to buy a newer Used Martin for $2000....I didn't want to have to deal with a neck reset and some of the other issues that come with older guitars and I didn't feel like I was getting more by spending $3000-$4000 for better example from the 70's
Plus the 70s one has no truss rod
@@torontolarrivee7965 Actually that is a common misconception. early Martin's have a truss rod.....it's just not adjustable like today's rods. There is a metal rod in 70's necks
Mike Adams my bad cheers
What strings, gauge, type did you install on this? They do not sound like a new string.. They sound broken in with good balance and tone.
They were elixir nanoweb phosphor bronze mediums.
They were new trick is stretching them to get them to settle.
@@JeremySheppard My favorites. I love those strings, and Ive tried a bunch.
I have some cheap crappy guitars but when I get into it they sound great
BTW...Indian rosewood was cut in in 1968 for the D28.
Song at 16:55?
Hey Hey My My Neil Young
Jeremy! Nice and honest review! As I stated in another video I had almost every issue when I first got my 1979 HD-28 as this D-28. Once they are fixed they sound amazing, especially when I got my neck reset with hyde glue. By the way I noticed Dream Guitars in Asheville had a D-45 Gene Autry for sale just so you know.
JR
North Carolina
Don't tell me that! Haha. **frantically Google's webpage and checks available funds**
Jeremy Sheppard ha! Best wishes on that!
@2:50 unless my eyes are deceiving me that’s pretty high action...super cool guitar though
Oh it's high for sure.
For picking and soft nail brush-strumming, you recommend the D18 or the D28...and what about a Sinker?
I'd go 18, they're less woofy. Sinker is amazing.
@@JeremySheppard So D18 Sinker for soft playing?
Hi Jeremy, I enjoyed the video. I didn't know that the necks on acoustic guitars could be removed. wow. I guess that does explain the low saddle. I wouldn't buy that guitar if I knew the action was going to stay that height. Great that your buddy Jay let you do this video on his guitar. Jeremy, how do I learn about verifying the authenticity of tuning heads (when they're sold separately from the guitar)? For this guitar for example? Thanks
These are pretty straightforward, because they are patent number grovers. And those basically were only made in the early 70s. There were Grover tuners before that, I'm not sure why the patent number showed up on these. But they are the correct ones for this time. Years ago I read a book about tuning heads, I can't remember the name of the book.
@@JeremySheppard thank you. I've been considering them as purchases and then trying to sell them on Reverb. Clearly though, I would need some knowledge. I'll stick with what I know...and it's not tuners :)
Does anyone know the name of the opening song? Or is it just a few nice sounding chords? I like it.
Sir I have a 1971 Martin D-18 with a black case and the inside lined with black fur how do you determine if the case is original
That's a case from the 80's. 71 would've been blue.
$1800-2200. I have a rebuilt 1974 D-28S and it's the best sounding guitar I've ever heard.
I sold an S a few years ago. Such deep sounding guitars.
Jeremy, did this one sell? I like that it's bright, like a D-18, and not boomy or jangly. Thanks.- Charles
I have been playing guitar since I was 4 years old.
I have never liked Taylor or Gibson guitars, and I am finding myself veering away from Martin now, as well.
I used to own 4 Martin USA guitars, now I am down to just 2...both are all mahogany (D-15 and 000-15), and I keep them around only for recording purposes. I hardly ever play them when I am just noodling and/or writing songs. They just don't sound the way I want the guitar to sound until I put a mic in front of them.
They are also way overpriced - maybe not Gibson acoustics as much, but 100% Taylor and the D18 series (and up) Martins should not cost more than a custom boutique builder. I got a Maestro guitar in October that blows away any Martin I have ever played...and it costs about $1000 less than a D-18. I do not play bluegrass, and I understand these are primarily bluegrass instruments. For me, there is not that much value in the sound a Martin, Taylor, or Gibson; most of the cost is in the brand recognition, and not the instrument. Just my opinion. I know I will get hate for this from the Taylor/Martin/Gibson cult followers, hahaha!
Cool video, Jeremy! 🐰❤️🎸🎵✨🤝✌️
Jack, no hate coming from me. We all have our own tastes when it comes down to tone. I own a Martina and two Taylors. Each has its own voice, feel and tone.
Hey Jeremy! Love the channel. Do you do official appraisals? I have a Froggy Bottom guitar I just obtained but can't seem to get a decent value on it.
That's a great guitar. I don't do proper appraisals. Gruhn in Nashville is great. Email me at jeremy@jeremysheppard.com
what is the name of that music that was playing while he was re-stringing? Liked it.
never knew that these 70s martins didnt have a adjustable truss rod therefore wouldnt touch it ,and i work on guitars unless it was maybe in good shape would offer $1500 but no more ,thanks for info
Pre-war Martins didn't have adjustable truss rods either. Would you touch one of those?
@@mjt5576 I meant to say I wouldnt buy 1 for myself but sure I would work on 1 ,I know the old guitars sound amazing but for my money (personal preference )no I wouldnt buy 1 for personal use unless it was for playing slide lol I have a old 39 stella guitar and same thing no truss so its for playing slide ,neck reset not worth it on that guitar but it was designed for slide
Curious, if that age Martin has lacquer checking on top, I thought it’s not good as dirt and oils will get below if not addressed? Read where peeps use lacquer retarder injected to flash and melt the seems closed? Ever heard of the technique?
Curious what I have is two sets of serial numbers? One on the neck and one on the bottom or back
On a Martin? They don't out serial numbers on their necks.
Are you a Louisianer? If so, Who Dat!
That I know of, Martin has never put a serial# on or in the body itself. It's either stamped on the neck block inside the guitar or written on the end of the neck, but you'd have to take the neck off to see it. (not recommended) They might have stamped a number on the back of the peghead of the old parlor guitars, but I've never seen or heard of such. I've played a few of the old "Wurlitzer" Martins & they're really nice guitars.
Good video. My Martin DX-1ae; $600. Unbeatable. Talk about punching above your weight.
Those are so fun and good sounding!
Hey Jeremy , did you ever live in Conyers Ga?
Depends. Are you contacting me about a substantial inheritance from a deceased relative?
That's a really nice guitar!!!!!!! Those cracks wouldn't bother me in the least. They seem to have been repaired properly & as long as they're not moving, I wouldn't be too concerned. I would however be concerned about what condition the bridge plate is in. That much string wear in front of the pin holes is not always, but usually a sign of considerable bridge plate wear. I would also want to know if there has ever been any non factory brace work done. All of that comes with the territory of buying a well loved & played, vintage guitar & should absolutely be reflected in the price paid for such. That said, this is still a great guitar & worth at least $2200!!!!!!!
I've always laughed about the 60's Martins having very rounded pegheads. I've got a 63 & the peghead corners are VERY rounded. You're right about Brazilian RW. It's a great tone wood, but greatly overpriced & there are MANY other tone woods out there that can give you very similar results in sound. Many tonal qualities are manipulated through the brace work & other structural inner workings anyway.
I would definitely have a neck set done on that guitar & probably replace the 1st 5 frets. I'm a bluegrass guitarist & lead player. I play all the way up to the body at times & that action is way too high for me. The intonation would definitely be effected by that, just as you've demonstrated. Another issue most of the 70's Martins have is that the bridge isn't exactly in the correct location. They tend to be about 1/8 of an inch too far towards the sound hole. Yes, this guitar does indeed have some issues, but what vintage guitar doesn't. Again, it comes with the territory. I would send it to Bryan Kimsey for any repair work it needs & a professional setup. He is more than capable of giving it the TLC it might need!!!!!!!
This guitar has a top grade solid Sitka spruce top with some nice cross grain effect. It also has top grade straight grain Indian RW in the back & I've always felt that straight grained Indian RW tends to sound better, being more responsive & vibrant across the different tonal frequencies of a guitar. This guitar would be a terrific investment for anyone, if the price is right. It sounds great over your mic & that proves it would make an awesome studio guitar!!!!!!!
This piqued my interest in prices. There's one on FB marketplace right now, for $3700 (1970 D28). Have they jumped up into that price range, since you made this video a year or so ago? Or, is it overpriced?
overpriced
I doubt the bridgeplate was Brazilian, more likely Indian and you are completely wrong about saying "little pieces." The 70's bridge plates where huge and thick and had a big and very negative effect on tone and volume.
You're right. Indian.
@@JeremySheppard IDK It's very possible for it to be brazilian in the early 70's, but the bridge plates were indeed big during that era. Many well known luthiers & collectors will tell you that Martin continued to use brazilian until about 73 or 74. They would sometimes miss-match the back & sides of the 28's & also use BRW in the middle piece on some D-35's of the era. I've owned a few early 70's D-28's, played a TON of them & I've personally seen some "questionable" wood on quite a few of them. I'm no wood expert, but it makes perfect sense, from a business standpoint, that they wouldn't lose money & waste all that stockpiled BRW. Given the deforestation laws at the time, they would never admit to such & the books will always say they used Indian. Regardless, I would look very closely at any 69-74 Martin & be sure before I ever sold it.
I note that you are changing the strings by removing all of them at the same time, which i'm told causes sudden stress to the neck. One string at a time surely is more less traumatic to a guitar of that age, or any age for that matter.
There's no truth behind this. Remove all the strings to clean the fingerboard.
@Phil Gyles No offense meant & I hope you don't take any. I get what you're saying & I somewhat agree, but wouldn't say it's traumatic stress. Anything done to a vintage guitar to change the tension, should be done a bit in moderation, but guitars are also built for this as well. His video is sped up a LOT during this process & it took much longer than it seemed. He also pretty much strung it right back up immediately after, so it wasn't all that stressful on the guitar.
I've been told that you can take off all the strings but old habits die hard. I clean the fretboard as I go, one string at a time :)
I've heard the guitar is never happier then when all the strings are off. Then when restringing its one at a time anyway.
I only listened to that Neil Young’s piece…I may learn that
What isnthat song at the end? I can't think of it for the life of me
Intonation is sour on some of those chords.
Seventies Martins are infamous for their bad intonation. Their bridges are slightly off is what everyone says.
But yeah I could hear it immediately. Oof.
Oh he even mentions it briefly in the video lol.
Even so, it still has some great tone!!!!!!!
Nice
1970's Martin has big problems. It has Truss rod but can't adjustable itself so if you need to adjust string height, it costs over several hundred dollars for reset. And more pickguards was shrinked and causes crack on soundhole. After sold it, I never buy it again.
They have truss rods, they are just nonadjustable. The bigger problem is the neck angle itself, it will require a reset. But, across the country, you should only have to pay around $350 for a neck reset and new saddle. I've checked with many luthiers and repair people that follow the channel.
Oh no adjustable truss rod??whoa never new that about em
‘71 D-35 bookmatched rosewoods, Grovers
Overall it's a good guitar
Sounds like there are a few frets buzzing on your intro. That means it will probably be a mess if it's capo'd
Action is high and my fingers were hitting. Not fretting out but high action.
Looking for a 71.....
@Paul Nicholas Email me @yahoo. I might have something you'd be interested in.
Like to hear what you have. Unfortunately I will be out of the country for the next few months.
How much sir
Did you tell value?
I am sorry, I missed it. Can't will anyone tell me what of if he said appx value?
$1600-$2000. He wants it to be more. One day they'll be $2500-$3000.
The late 70s was terrible for everyone except the Japanese manufacturers. Ibanez, aria, takamine, burny, tokai, Yamaha. All produced some of the greatest guitars of the last 65 years
Check the truss rod before you think about neck reset